EP3461355A1 - Chemise sur mesure et son procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Chemise sur mesure et son procédé de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3461355A1
EP3461355A1 EP18000630.6A EP18000630A EP3461355A1 EP 3461355 A1 EP3461355 A1 EP 3461355A1 EP 18000630 A EP18000630 A EP 18000630A EP 3461355 A1 EP3461355 A1 EP 3461355A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
double
tailored
ornamental
jacket
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18000630.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Hisashi Matsuura
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Burns & Factory Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Burns & Factory Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Burns & Factory Co Ltd filed Critical Burns & Factory Co Ltd
Publication of EP3461355A1 publication Critical patent/EP3461355A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D15/00—Convertible garments
    • A41D15/005—Convertible garments reversible garments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/02—Jackets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2300/00—Details of garments
    • A41D2300/30—Closures
    • A41D2300/326—Closures using hooks and eyelets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/18—Cloth collars
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/20—Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a tailored jacket and a manufacturing method thereof and, particularly it relates to a tailored jacket which can be worn reversibly and a manufacturing method thereof.
  • either side of front and rear surfaces may be used depending on the use while varying the design and the color of both of the surfaces.
  • those reversibly tailored clothes made of two overlaid fabrics, or reversibly tailored clothes made of one fabric which can be used with either of both front and rear surfaces as an outer surface are not suitable for stiffly tailored jackets which are worn smartly such as tailored jackets.
  • the tailored jacket is a jacket designed to have a collar and is a well-tailored coat, the tailored jacket is put on alone or together with other items and the like unlike a suit or a blouson.
  • the tailored jacket Upon selection of the tailored jacket, most important features are good fit and feeling of silhouette, and it is important to match the size of the tailored jacket and that of a user's shoulder as being said that "a user wears a jacket focusing on a shoulder in a good fit".
  • Tailored jackets have various designs, and recently those having a silhouette tightly fitting a user's shoulder are predominant. Specifically, there is a tendency that a tailored jacket tightly fitting a user's body without causing creases on the back are preferred. Thus, the good fit and feeling of silhouette are important got users to wear a tailored jacket smartly.
  • a reversibly tailored jacket by overlaying a surface fabric and a rear face fabric
  • another surface is a rear side. Since a surface area of the rear side is smaller than that of the surface side, an excessive fabric causes creases or deformation.
  • the resulted creases are revealed on the outer side, therefore, the revealed creases cause degradation of the good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important when the tailored jacket is worn smartly.
  • the creases of the reversible clothes due to the two overlaid fabrics are not annoying in the case of work clothes or exercise clothes.
  • the creases degrade the good fit, and even if reversible specifications with versatile designs could be realized, wearers could not have smartly worn a tailored jacket on which creases are revealed.
  • the reversibly tailored jacket is made by overlaying a surface fabric and a rear face fabric, this poses a problem that the surface fabric and the rear face fabric are misaligned when the tailored jacket is worn. Therefore, the fabric on the inner side fits the body of a wearer but the fabric on the outer side is deviated from the fabric on the inner side, making it difficult to provide a good fit which is important when the tailored jacket is worn smartly.
  • a seam allowance is formed on one surface when stitching the fabric and fabric together, thus posing a problem that the seam allowance gives feeling of discomfort or lowering of aesthetic sense when the jacket is worn.
  • a method of inwardly folding the seam allowance which worsens the aesthetic sense thereby anesthetically treating the seam allowance is considered.
  • the seam allowance is folded inwardly, the folded portions are overlapped to increase the thickness, causing discomfort to a wearer of the tailored jacket focusing on the good fit.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above, and an object thereof is to provide a reversibly tailored jacket without suppressing good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important when a user wears the tailored jacket smartly, and a method of manufacturing thereof.
  • the present invention intends to provide a reversibly wearable tailored jacket including a double-faced fabric having ornamental surfaces on both front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting the fabric comprising: a cut out surface and a stitched portion in which the cut out surfaces are stitched together in parallel.
  • the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting is cut, and the cut surfaces are stitched in parallel in the stitched portion.
  • the present invention provides a method of manufacturing a tailored jacket which can be worn reversibly, comprising steps of cutting a double-faced fabric having both ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting, and stitching the cut fabrics together in parallel.
  • the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting is cut, and cut fabrics are stitched together in parallel.
  • the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting, is cut on the surface to be cut, and in the stitched portion, the cut fabrics are stitched together in parallel. Therefore, creases are not left in any of front and rear surfaces, the seam allowances are not revealed on the front or rear surface, so that this does not degrade any of a good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a tailored jacket.
  • Fig. 1 is a view of a tailored jacket according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • a tailored jacket 100 is formed of a double-faced fabric 110 including a first ornamental surface 111 and a second ornamental surface 112 on both front and rear surfaces, and the jacket can be worn with either of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side.
  • the tailored jacket 100 is a reversibly tailored cloth which can be worn with either of the front surface or the rear surface, and the both surfaces can be used selectively properly in accordance with the use by varying the design or color of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112.
  • the tailored jacket 100 is provided with a plurality of button holes 130 on an upper front body 121 and a lower front body 122 which are to be laterally overlapped, among front body 120 which are parts covering the front of a body of a wearer of the tailored jacket 100.
  • the tailored jacket 100 includes a case shown in Fig. 1(A) where it is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side and another case shown in Fig. 1(B) where it is worn with the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side.
  • the upper one is an upper front body 121
  • the lower one is a front body 122
  • the upper one is the upper front body 121 and the lower one is the front part 122.
  • the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are turned inside out between the case where the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side and another case where the jacket is worn with the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side.
  • the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are sometimes turned inside out depending on whether the wearer of the tailored jacket is a man or woman.
  • the button holes 130 formed to an overlapping portion of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are provided with detachably attached both-sided buttons 140, so that the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened by the both-sided buttons 140 by fitting them to the button holes 130 provided to the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 respectively.
  • the button holes 130 and the both-sided buttons 140 are to be described specifically later.
  • container bags 150 each in a bag-like shape for containing small articles are provided to the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 of the front body 120 of the tailored jacket 100.
  • the container bags 150 are to be described specifically below.
  • the tailored jacket 100 includes a collar 160 provided while being turned back outwardly at a portion fitting a neck.
  • the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of the collar 160 provided while being turned back is the first ornamental surface 111 and, alternatively, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 112 as the outer side, the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of the collar 160 provided while being turned back is the second ornamental surface 112.
  • the collar 160 will be described specifically below.
  • Fig. 2 is a view of a fabric for making the tailored jacket.
  • the double-faced fabric 110 has a first ornamental surface 111 and a second ornamental surface 112 as both front and rear surfaces.
  • the double-faced fabric 110 is a woolen fabric formed of sheep wool as a material, which is prepared by forming a tubular cloth by continuous spiral loops through circular knitting, cutting out the fabric into a planar shape and pressing the resultant fabric into a sheet-like shape by felting.
  • a double-faced circular knitted fabric is moistened with e.g., a special chemical and subjected to felting to shrink the fabric while applying pressure and friction, a double-faced fabric 110 having a felt-like unique texture can be formed.
  • the sheep wool is subjected to circular knitting and felting, the loose threads of the fabric are compressed, unlike ordinary clothes, the double-faced fabric 110 scarcely suffers from loose threads at the cut edge portions.
  • the fabrics can be stitched together in a planer state, and no protruded seam allowance reveals on the surface of either the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface 112 of the tailored jacket 100. Details of abutting the cut surfaces and stitching them together in parallel are to be described later.
  • the tailored jacket 100 using the double-faced fabric 110, a reversibly-tailored jacket 100 having a specification of completely single fabric can be made. Therefore, creases or deformation which was caused in reversibly tailored jacket made of double-faced fabrics so far can be overcome.
  • Fig. 3 is a view illustrating an example of a way of stitching cut double-faced fabrics together.
  • the double-faced fabric 110 has the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 on both front and rear surfaces.
  • the double-faced fabric 110 includes cut out surfaces 113 formed by cutting the fabric along a pattern on every part constituting the tailored jacket 100 without providing seam allowance.
  • Fig. 3 illustrates parts of the tailored jacket 100 cut out into each of the parts, in which the parts are referred to as a double-faced fabric 110A and a doubled-faced fabric 110B, respectively, and a part on the left side is referred to as a double-faced fabric 110A, and another part on the right side is referred to as a double-faced fabric 110B for the sake of convenience.
  • the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B are aligned in parallel having therebetween a stitching line L where the cut surfaces 113A and 113B are abutted against each other, and stitched together by two upper threads 114 and 115 and one lower thread 116.
  • the upper thread 114 forms zigzag stitches on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110A, and the upper thread 115 forms zigzag stitches on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110B.
  • the lower thread 116 forms stitches while passing through stitched and turned loops of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
  • the lower thread 116 is stitched in the direction of the stitch line L passing through the turn back points 114A, 114B, 115A, and 115B on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
  • the lower thread 116 is connected with the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 while repeating the loops of stitches and turns formed by the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 in the order of the turn back points 115B, 115A, 114B, 115A, 115B, 114A, 115B, ....
  • the cut out surface 113A is compressed by the upper thread 114 and the lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced fabric 110A
  • the cut out surface 113B is compressed by the upper thread 115 and the lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced fabric 110B
  • the lower thread 116 stitches the cut out surface 113A and the cut out surface 113B together while passing through the stitched and turned loops of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115.
  • the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can be stitched together in parallel while abutting the cut out surface 113A and the cut out surface 113B, so that it is possible to stitch the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B together in a flat state without forming protruding seams.
  • the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can thus be stitched together in parallel in a flat state, a protruding seam allowance is not formed. That is, discomfort and loss of good fit that would be caused when a seal allowance protrudes inwardly in the reversibly tailored jacket 100 can be overcome and also degradation of aesthetic appearance when a seam allowance is protruded inwardly can be overcome.
  • Fig. 4 is a view illustrating details of the collar.
  • the tailored jacket 100 includes a collar 160 which is provided while being turned back outwardly at a portion fitting a neck.
  • the collar 160 Since the collar 160 is provided while being turned back outwardly, when the tailored jacket 100 is made in a state where the ornamental surface of the front body 120 is continued, the outer surface of the outwardly turned back collar 160 and the outer surface of the front body 120 are revealed on the surface at their different ornamental surfaces. Then, only the collar 160 has a different ornamental surface, so that the tailored jacket 100 cannot be formed in a uniform design.
  • the second ornamental surface 112 of the collar 160 is turned back and revealed on the surface. Then, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side, the second ornamental surface 112 is revealed only on the surface of the collar 160, and the design lacks uniform feeling.
  • the collar 160 is cut from the front body 120 and the back body 170 separately, and as shown in Figs. 14(A) and 14(B), the front body 120 and the back body 170 are stitched together so that one of the ornamental surfaces of them is continued, and the collar 160 is joined by stitching such that only another ornamental surface of the collar 160 is formed on the same surface as one of the ornamental surfaces of the front body 120 and the back body 170.
  • the collar 160 is joined by stitching to the front body 120 and the back body 170 such that the second ornamental surface 112 of the collar 160 is continued on the same surface.
  • the front body 120 and the back body 170 are joined by stitching to the collar 160 such that the first ornamental surface 111 of the collar 160 is on the same surface as the second ornamental surface 112 of the front body 120 and the back body 170.
  • the jacket can be worn while having a unified ornamental surface.
  • Fig. 4 shows an example of the collar 160 in which an upper collar and a lower collar are continued
  • the collar 160 prepared by cutting out the upper collar and the lower collar separately and abutting and stitching them together in parallel may be stitched to the front body 120 and the back body 170.
  • Fig. 5 is a view illustrating details of a both-sided button and button holes.
  • a both-sided button 140 includes two one-sided button 141 and a connection part 142 connecting the two one-sided buttons 141.
  • the both-sided button 140 is formed of two one-sided buttons 141 at a predetermined distance to fasten the overlapped thickness of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122, the two one-sided buttons 141 are connected by a connection part 142 formed by winding e.g., a thread around a portion by a plurality of times between the two one-sided buttons 141 and further winding the e.g., a thread so as to turn around the two one-sided button 141.
  • a plurality of button holes 130 are formed to portions in which the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are overlapped.
  • the button holes 130 formed on both sides of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fitted, and the both-sided button 140 is passed through the two button holes 130, thereby capable of connecting the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122.
  • the diameter of the button hole 130 may be set appropriately, when the diameter is made identical with the diameter of the one-sided button 141 of the both-sided button 140, the both-sided button 140 is prevented from coming out of the button hole 130 after connecting the upper front body 121 and the lower body 122 by the both-sided button 140.
  • the tailored jacket 100 when the tailored jacket 100 is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side, the left side as viewed from a wearer is the upper front body 121, the right side as viewed from the wearer is the lower front body 122, and the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened with each other by the both-sided buttons 140.
  • the left side as viewed from a wearer is the upper front body 121, and the part which has been the lower front body 122 in Fig. 5(C) is the upper front body 121.
  • the right side as viewed from the wearer is the lower front body 122, and the part which has been the upper front body 121 in Fig. 5(C) is the lower front body 122.
  • the front body 120 can be fastened together in an appropriate state by the both-sided buttons 140 depending on the state of wearing.
  • the design of the tailored jacket 100 can be varied by connecting the two one-sided buttons 141 of the both-sided button 140 so as to match the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 which are two ornamental surfaces of the tailored jacket 100.
  • Fig. 6 is a view illustrating details of a container bag provided to the front body.
  • the tailored jacket 100 can be optionally provided with a container bag 150 at a desired position of the front body 120.
  • the container bag 150 is formed so as to have a bag-like shape by joining the container cloth 151 to the surface of the front body 120 by sewing along the stitched portion 152 except for one upper side.
  • the container cloth 151 When the container cloth 151 is joined to the front body 120 by sewing, the container cloth 151 and the front body 120 are sewn together using a thread. However, if the container cloth 151 is sewn to the front body 120 as it is, the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the rear side of the front body 120.
  • the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112. If the tailored jacket 100 is worn while turning the front surface and the rear face inside out in a state where the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112, the thread of the stitched portion 152 which has been exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 is exposed on the outer side, leading to degradation of aesthetic sense.
  • the position and the shape of the container bags 150 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 are made identical, whereby the exposed stitched portion 152 can be minimized.
  • the configuration of the container cloth 151 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 is made identical with that of the container cloth 151 formed on the second ornamental surface 112, and the position of the container cloth 151 sewn to the first ornamental surface 111 and that of the second ornamental surface 112 are made identical.
  • the position of the container cloth 151 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 and the position of the container cloth 151 formed on the second ornamental surface 112 are matched and then basted, so that the two container clothes 151 are fixed to the double-faced fabric 110 at the same position, and then the two container clothes 151 are sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 by final stitching, and then the basting thread is removed.
  • one container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 from either side of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112, and another container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along the line of the stitches from another side.
  • the container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along one stitch line, so that excess stitches are not exposed even viewing from the side of the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface 112.
  • the double-faced fabric having ornamental surfaces on both front and rear surfaces which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like shape by felting is cut out, and the cut out fabrics are abutted against each other and stitched together in parallel, creases are not left on either front or rear surface and the stitches are not revealed on either front or rear surface.
  • reversibly tailored jacket that can be worn by turning the front and rear surfaces inside out can be made without degrading good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a tailored jacket smartly.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
EP18000630.6A 2017-08-31 2018-07-27 Chemise sur mesure et son procédé de fabrication Withdrawn EP3461355A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2017166890A JP2019044286A (ja) 2017-08-31 2017-08-31 テーラードジャケット、およびその製造方法

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3461355A1 true EP3461355A1 (fr) 2019-04-03

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ID=63108386

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18000630.6A Withdrawn EP3461355A1 (fr) 2017-08-31 2018-07-27 Chemise sur mesure et son procédé de fabrication

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US (1) US20190059474A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3461355A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2019044286A (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101992721B1 (ko) * 2015-06-12 2019-06-25 가부시키가이샤 이푸시론 재팬 신사복 원형의 제작방법
US20210352969A1 (en) * 2018-09-07 2021-11-18 Fortiac Corporation Dba Téchin New York Soft Fabric Garment Having Stiff Fabric Structural Elements
USD995988S1 (en) 2021-12-29 2023-08-22 James Samuel Garment
KR200498501Y1 (ko) * 2023-03-03 2024-11-11 주식회사 엔오르 리버시블 재킷

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1371841A (en) * 1920-06-11 1921-03-15 Berkwits Max Coat
GB730650A (en) * 1952-05-12 1955-05-25 Healthguard Knitwear Ltd A reversible jacket
US3639914A (en) * 1970-07-07 1972-02-08 Harold R Ellman Method of making machine sewn jacket and jacket construction
US5029344A (en) * 1990-09-06 1991-07-09 Shannon Thomas D Double-reversible garments
JP2006200053A (ja) 2005-01-18 2006-08-03 Goldwin Technical Center:Kk リバーシブル衣服
JP2008163531A (ja) * 2006-12-26 2008-07-17 Shigeo Arikawa リバーシブル略礼服

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2008528821A (ja) * 2005-01-28 2008-07-31 デブソン シン イェンコム シームレス衣料品

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1371841A (en) * 1920-06-11 1921-03-15 Berkwits Max Coat
GB730650A (en) * 1952-05-12 1955-05-25 Healthguard Knitwear Ltd A reversible jacket
US3639914A (en) * 1970-07-07 1972-02-08 Harold R Ellman Method of making machine sewn jacket and jacket construction
US5029344A (en) * 1990-09-06 1991-07-09 Shannon Thomas D Double-reversible garments
JP2006200053A (ja) 2005-01-18 2006-08-03 Goldwin Technical Center:Kk リバーシブル衣服
JP2008163531A (ja) * 2006-12-26 2008-07-17 Shigeo Arikawa リバーシブル略礼服

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JP2019044286A (ja) 2019-03-22
US20190059474A1 (en) 2019-02-28

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