EP3313363A1 - Composition capillaire de restructuration et de protection - Google Patents

Composition capillaire de restructuration et de protection

Info

Publication number
EP3313363A1
EP3313363A1 EP16751003.1A EP16751003A EP3313363A1 EP 3313363 A1 EP3313363 A1 EP 3313363A1 EP 16751003 A EP16751003 A EP 16751003A EP 3313363 A1 EP3313363 A1 EP 3313363A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
applying
comprised
iii
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16751003.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stefano Orlandi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
HSA Hair Styling Applications SpA
Original Assignee
HSA Hair Styling Applications SpA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from CH00923/15A external-priority patent/CH711252A2/it
Application filed by HSA Hair Styling Applications SpA filed Critical HSA Hair Styling Applications SpA
Publication of EP3313363A1 publication Critical patent/EP3313363A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair having protective, nourishing and restructuring action for the treatment of hair; the invention further relates to the preparation and use of said composition.
  • the cuticle On the outside there is the cuticle, made up of a single row of thin transparent cells, with a thickness of between 0.2-0.5 microns, arranged in a vertical row at the root and obliquely (in "scales") at the hair shaft level. Given the position it is in, the cuticle is the first to be damaged when hair is mistreated (unsuitable shampoos, permanents, brushing, etc.). Appearing at an intermediate level is the cortex, the most abundant part. It is made up of larger, spindle-shaped cells, about 90 microns long and about 5 microns wide, arranged vertically in parallel rows. They contain a coloured pigment, melanin, which tends to decrease with age, turning hair "white” (whitening process).
  • the medulla which is made up of rounded cells, arranged in columns, generally separated from one another by air spaces.
  • the other elements making up the chemistry of hair are: proteins, lipids, minerals and pigments.
  • proteins the main one of which is keratin, located in the cortex and composed of 18 amino acids.
  • the main amino acids composing keratin are: cysteine (17.5%), serine (11.7%), glutamic acid (11.1 %), threonine (6.9%), glycine (6.5%) and, finally, arginine (5.6%).
  • Low-sulphur, fibrous alpha-keratin is present in the largest quantity in hair.
  • the three-dimensional structure of the proteins present in hair plays an important role from both a functional and structural viewpoint and is therefore fundamental for the aesthetic appearance of hair.
  • Water reversibly breaks the hydrogen bonds and this makes hair easier to style; when the water evaporates, the hydrogen bonds are reformed in new positions, keeping the hair in the hairstyle imparted when the hair was damp.
  • strongly acidic solutions such as, for example, at pH values comprised between 1 and 2, both the hydrogen bonds and the bonds between acidic and basic groups are broken.
  • the disulphide bridges are broken as a result of exposure to heat or sunlight or as a result of exposure to treatment with the reducing agents that are generally used in conventional permanent waving treatments.
  • an oxidizing agent generally hydrogen peroxide
  • treating hair with peroxides causes oxidation of the thiol groups of keratin, restoring the disulphide bridges, according to the following scheme:
  • K represents keratin
  • barrier agents claimed to prevent the denaturation of the proteins including keratin, or remedy the damage caused by such denaturation.
  • Surfactants and cationic polymers, silicone agents, extracts and vegetable oils, mixtures of amino acids and agents with a film-forming action are the substances most widely used for this purpose.
  • silicone agents, extracts and vegetable oils, mixtures of amino acids and agents with a film-forming action are the substances most widely used for this purpose.
  • By positioning themselves around the keratin fibres of the hair shaft such substances create a protective film around the structure. This serves to avoid an excessive breakdown of the keratin fibres of hair.
  • Modern cosmetics have enabled the development of products that do not weigh down hair; on the contrary they help it to be protected and treated in a suitable manner.
  • cationic surfactants whose positive charges are attracted by the negative charges present on the hair shaft after shampooing; these agents deposit on the hair, making it shinier and facilitating, together with greasy substances, combing and brushing.
  • An example of a cationic surfactant commonly used in the sector is the cetrimonium chloride, a quaternary ammonium salt.
  • Other commonly used agents are several waxes based on stearyl alcohol, protein hydrolysates, silicones, such as, for example, dimethicone and dimethicone copolyol, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5), quaternary polymers (polyquaternium series), glycerine, etc.
  • Patent application EP0763356 discloses a fixative composition for hair comprising a copolymer comprising monomers having acid groups and monomers having functional groups other than the acid group, wherein the monomers having acid groups are acrylic acid or crotonic acid monomers.
  • Patent application WO2014/096128 discloses a fixative composition for hair comprising a copolymer comprising monomers having acid groups and monomers having functional groups other than the acid group, wherein the monomers having acid groups are acrylic acid or methacrylic acid monomers.
  • Patent US7972589 generically discloses fixative compositions for hair comprising a polycarboxylic acid as a plasticizer, but none exemplifies maleic or polymaleic acid.
  • compositions comprising a polymerizable water-soluble vinylic monomer having acid groups for use in protecting or reducing damage while dyeing or bleaching hair; sodium acrylate is given as an example in the patent.
  • EP1455738 discloses the use, for the treatment of hair, of a composition comprising a monomer, for example a cyanoacrylate, capable of polymerizing via anionic polymerization in the presence of a nucleophilic agent.
  • WO07127065 and WO07134219 disclose the polymerization of monomers, in particular acrylic ones, in situ on hair for modifying the characteristics thereof.
  • EP2478891 , EP2561855 and EP2295029 disclose a hair treatment comprising the application of a composition comprising a vinylic monomer, in particular an acrylic one, which polymerizes in situ.
  • WSP discloses a method of treating keratin-based substrates comprising the application of a water-soluble complex free of grafting, which comprises: (a) a water-soluble polymer and (b) one or more water-soluble monomers polymerizable in the presence of the polymer (a).
  • W014118212 L'Oreal discloses a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid, such as, for example, maleic acid and itaconic acid; the composition can also comprise a polymer selected from among acrylammonium polymers and non-ionic cellulose-based polymers.
  • EP1326577 discloses the use of short-chain carboxylic acids, preferably in combination with a polymer, as restructuring agents in hair products.
  • EP1647264 discloses a composition for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinic material comprising an electrophilic monomer and a non-silicone polymer.
  • W012164065 discloses a composition comprising a carboxylic acid and a non-cellulosic polymer.
  • the Applicant has addressed the problem of improving the protective, nourishing and restructuring treatment of hair.
  • composition comprising an activated vinylic monomer, such as, for example, maleic acid, and a non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer, such as, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), is capable of protecting hair, rendering it more resistant and making it appear healthier looking. Moreover, the effects of such a treatment last over time.
  • activated vinylic monomer such as, for example, maleic acid
  • non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer such as, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • the Applicant has found that the vinylic monomer and non-ionic nitrogen-containing polymer, particularly if in the appropriate concentrations, reciprocal ratios and/or pH, are capable of reacting on hair by exploiting, as triggering agents, the compositions and conditions used in conventional hair treatments.
  • the Applicant deems that the activated vinylic monomer, under the conditions of use of the present invention, i.e. on coming into contact with oxidizing and/or reducing substances and/or being subjected to physical treatments, such as heat or light, and in the presence of a non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer, is polymerized to yield the corresponding polymer.
  • the activated vinylic monomer by virtue of its small size, is capable of penetrating into the pores of hair where, by polymerizing, it increases in size until no longer able to get out completely, thus remaining retained by the hair.
  • the maleic acid seems also to react by grafting onto PVP.
  • the polymaleic acid and graft PVP apparently work their way into the empty spaces between the keratin hair fibres, essentially interacting at a physical level, for example remaining trapped in the pores and interacting through Van Der Waals' forces of attraction and/or hydrogen bonds, without necessarily giving rise to strong covalent bonds of a thioether type.
  • the polymaleic acid formed in situ appears to act as a barrier, preventing the denaturation of proteins, including keratin; or else by filling pores and fractures it acts like a cement, performing an action of mechanical strengthening and thus remedying the damage caused by such denaturation.
  • a first object of the present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of hair comprising:
  • R1 represents an electrophilic group preferably selected from among N(R) 3 + , S(R)2 + , NH 3 + , NHR, NR 2 , N0 2 , SO2R, CN, COOH, COOR, COSR, CONH2, CONHR, F, CI, Br, I, OR, COR, SH, SR, OH, linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl, linear or branched C1-C20 alkynyl, mono- or poly-fluoro-Ci-C4-alkyl, aryl and aryloxy,
  • R2, R3 and R4 are independently of one another
  • - a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally comprising at least one atom selected from among nitrogen, oxygen and/or sulphur, and optionally substituted by at least one group selected from among -OR, COOR, COR, SH, SR, OH and halogen or
  • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally comprising at least one atom selected from among nitrogen, oxygen and/or sulphur, and optionally substituted by at least one group selected from among -OR', COOR', COR', SH, SR', OH and halogen,
  • R' is a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl
  • R1 and R3 taken together form a CO-O-CO group and R2 and R4 (or R3) are as defined above,
  • (III) optionally, at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents; and
  • a second object of the present invention relates to the preparation of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • a third object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in cosmetic treatments.
  • a fourth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair treatment comprising
  • a fifth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair dyeing treatment comprising:
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention, preferably not containing colouring agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV);
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one colouring agent,
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising colouring agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), preferably leaving it on for a time comprised between about 2 minutes and about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes,
  • a sixth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair bleaching treatment comprising
  • composition resulting from A) a composition in accordance with the first object of the invention, preferably not comprising bleaching agents, more preferably not containing component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV),
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one bleaching agent
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising bleaching agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), preferably leaving it on for a time comprised between about 2 minutes and about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes,
  • a seventh object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair straightening treatment comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one straightening agent
  • An eighth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair permanent waving treatment comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising permanent waving agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV),
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is a permanent waving agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound
  • a ninth object of the present invention relates to a kit for the treatment of hair comprising
  • Peroxides are chemical compounds containing a characteristic group made up of two atoms of oxygen joined by a simple covalent bond (-0-0- bond). DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
  • Figure 1 shows a photograph of locks of hair.
  • Lock 1 before the treatments; lock 2: after 4 treatment cycles with a conventional bleaching agent; lock 3: after 4 treatment cycles with a conventional bleaching agent supplemented with the composition 1 a; lock 4: after 4 treatment cycles with a conventional bleaching agent supplemented with the composition 1 h; lock 5: after 4 treatment cycles with a conventional bleaching agent supplemented with the composition 1 i; lock 6: after 4 pre- treatment cycles with the comparative composition 11 and subsequent treatment with a conventional bleaching agent; lock 7: after 4 pre-treatment cycles with the composition representative of the present invention 1 a and subsequent treatment with a conventional bleaching agent.
  • Figures 2 and 3 show SEM photographs of the surface of the hair before the treatment.
  • Figures 4-8 show SEM photographs of the surface of the hair after 4 conventional bleaching cycles.
  • Figures 9-12 show SEM photographs of the surface of the hair after 4 conventional bleaching cycles with the addition of the composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1 a).
  • Figure 13 is a bar diagram showing the load value (cN) of hair which, respectively: had never undergone any treatment (bleaching, permanent waving, dyeing, etc.) (A); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles, without the addition of any additive to the bleaching powder and without applying a conditioner after every bleaching cycle (B); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which every treatment cycle comprised the composition representative of the invention and applying a commercial conditioner (1) after every bleaching treatment (C); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which the bleaching powder also comprised a diamine and in which every treatment cycle comprised the composition representative of the invention and was followed by the application of the commercial conditioner (1) (D); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which every treatment cycle comprised the commercial comparative composition (1) OLAPLEX BOND MULTIPLIER N0.1 and was followed by the application of the commercial conditioner (2) (E).
  • A load value
  • B after 4 bleaching treatment cycles, without the addition of any additive to the bleaching powder and without applying a conditioner after every bleaching cycle
  • C after every bleaching treatment
  • C after 4 bleach
  • Figure 14 shows the deformation value (mm/mm) of locks of hair that respectively: had never undergone any treatment (bleaching, permanent waving, dyeing, etc.) (A); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles, without the addition of any additive to the bleaching powder and without applying a conditioner after every bleaching cycle (B); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which every treatment cycle comprised the composition representative of the invention and applying the commercial conditioner (1) after every bleaching treatment (C); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which the bleaching powder also comprised a diamine and in which every treatment cycle comprised the composition representative of the invention and was followed by the application of the commercial conditioner (1) (D); after 4 bleaching treatment cycles in which every treatment cycle comprised the commercial comparative composition (1) OLAPLEX BOND MULTIPLIER N0.1 and was followed by the application of the commercial conditioner (2) (E).
  • Figure 15 shows photographs of locks of hair.
  • Figure 16 shows photographs of locks of hair.
  • a first object of the present invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising:
  • R1 represents a electrophilic group preferably selected from among N(R) 3 +, S(R)2+, NH 3 +, NHR, NR 2 , N0 2 , SO2R, CN, COOH, COOR, COSR, CONH2, CONHR, F, CI, Br, I, OR, COR, SH, SR, OH, linear or branched C2-C20 alkeynyl, linear or branched C1-C20 alkynyl, mono- or poly-f I uoro-C 1 -C4- alkyl, aryl and aryloxy,
  • R2, R3 and R4 are independently of one another
  • - hydrogen - a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally comprising at least one atom selected from among nitrogen, oxygen and/or sulphur, and optionally substituted by at least one group selected from among -OR, COOR, COR, SH, SR, OH and halogen,
  • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and optionally comprising at least one atom selected from among nitrogen, oxygen and/or sulphur, and optionally substituted by at least one group selected from among -OR', COOR', COR', SH, SR', OH and halogen,
  • R' is a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl
  • R1 and R3 taken together form a group CO-O-CO and R2 and R4 (or R3) are as defined above,
  • (III) optionally, at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents; and
  • the aforesaid composition does not comprise a component (III).
  • the aforesaid composition comprises component (III).
  • R2, R3 and R4 represent independently of one another a hydrocarbon group
  • said hydrocarbon group comprises from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms
  • R' is a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl.
  • R1 represents a COOH group and at least one among R2, R3 and R4 represents a hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably at least one among R2, R3 and R4 represents a CH3 group, or else they represent hydrogen.
  • the at least one monomer of formula (I) is an alpha, beta monounsaturated monocarboxylic acid, preferably selected from among tiglic, crotonic, angelic, acrylic and metacrylic acid.
  • R1 represents a COOH group and at least one among R2, R3 and R4 represents a COOH group.
  • R1 represents a COOH group
  • at least one between R3 and R4 represents a COOH group
  • R1 represents a COOH group
  • R2 is other than COOH and only one between R3 and R4 represents a COOH group.
  • the at least one monomer of formula (I) is an alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid, preferably selected from among maleic, fumaric, citraconic, mesaconic and itaconic acid and the corresponding anhydrides; preferably it is selected from among maleic acid and fumaric acid and the anhydrides thereof; more preferably it is maleic acid.
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is selected from among polyamides, preferably poly(methacrylamide); polylactams; polyvinyl lactams, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl piperidone, polyvinyl hexahydro-phthalimidine, polyvinyl caprolactam; polyimines, preferably polyethyleneimine; polymers containing nitrogen-containing aromatic heterocycles, preferably poly 4-vinylpyridine; preferably it is a polyvinyl lactam, more preferably it is PVP.
  • polyamides preferably poly(methacrylamide); polylactams; polyvinyl lactams, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl piperidone, polyvinyl hexahydro-phthalimidine, polyvinyl caprolactam; polyimines, preferably polyethyleneimine; polymers containing nitrogen-containing aromatic heterocycles, preferably poly 4-
  • colouring agents are compounds capable of imparting a permanent or temporary colour to hair or compounds that give origin to the aforesaid compounds by oxidation and/or coupling. Any colouring agent known to the person skilled in the art is suitable for use in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the colouring agent according to the present invention is selected from among an oxidation dye, a direct dye, metallic, reactive or vegetable. More preferably, the colouring agent is an oxidation dye or a direct dye.
  • Oxidation dyes consist in a mixture made up of compounds that are precursors of oxidation dyes and, optionally, couplers of oxidation dyes.
  • Precursors of oxidation dyes are low-molecular-weight molecules that penetrate into the hair fibre and are oxidized by means of peroxide or self-oxidize to form active intermediates that react with each other or with the couplers to yield coloured compounds of larger size that remain incorporated in the hair fibre, thus leading to a dyeing thereof resistant to washing.
  • Precursors of oxidation dyes and couplers of oxidation dyes are well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • Precursors of oxidation dyes are generally aniline derivatives such as, for example, ortho- and para- diamines or aminophenols like paraphenylenediamine, ortho-aminophenol, toluene-2,5-diamine, p- aminophenol, 1,4 diaminophenoxyethanol, 2,4 diaminophenoxyethanol, 4-methylaminophenol, 4- amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol, 5-amino-6-chloro-orto-cresol, 2-aminomethyl-p-amino phenol, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid, hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylenediamine, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-amino-6-chloro-4- nitrophenol, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diaminopyr
  • Couplers of oxidation dyes are generally aromatic electron-rich compounds, such as, for example, substituted and unsubstituted resorcinols or m-phenylenediamines which generally have the para position unsubstituted with respect to the amino group or phenolic group, such as, for example, resorcinol, 1-naphthol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, m-aminophenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxytoluene, 1,5-naphthalenediol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2,4-diamino-5-methyl phenoxyethanol, etc.
  • the formulations of permanent dyes contain two or more ingredients which act as precursors or couplers.
  • Direct dyes are colouring compounds that bind or adhere to the surface of the hair in a non- permanent manner and are therefore removed after one or more washes. They are distinguished in semi-permanent direct dyes such as, for example, neutral aromatic amines, aromatic nitro amines, anthraquinone derivatives that are eliminated from hair after several washes; or temporary direct dyes such as, for example, acids or anions that are eliminated from hair with the first wash.
  • Preferred direct dyes are 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine (red), 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine (yellow-orange), tetrabromophenol blue, sodium picramate, HC Red No. 3, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • diamine-based oxidation or direct dyes have a pKal comprised between 3 and 4.6 and a pKa2 comprised between 5.5 and 6.5.
  • Metallic dyes are salts of metals, preferably lead, silver, bismuth, cobalt, copper, iron and mercury, which are suitable for colouring hair.
  • lead-based dyes are the only one presently marketed as acetate and sulphate.
  • Reactive dyes are colouring agents that bind to hair by forming covalent bonds with keratin fibres. These dyes are preferably dichlorotriazine or trichloropyrimidine derivatives.
  • Vegetable dyes are compounds or mixtures of colouring compounds obtained from plants. Among them, henna (or lawsone) and chamomile are preferred.
  • the active colouring substance of henna is 1 ,4-naphthoquinone; the active colouring substance of chamomile is a polyhydroxy flavone, 4',5,7- trihydroxyflavone, also known by the name apigenin.
  • the active colouring substances of henna and chamomile belong to the group of alpha-beta unsaturated compounds, which are capable of yielding 1 ,4 addition reactions with free amino acids or other nucleophilic groups of hair proteins.
  • preferred colouring agents are selected from among, but not limited to, the following: p-phenylenediamine, resorcinol, 2,6-diaminopyridine, m- aminophenol, p-aminophenol, 1-naphthol, p-methylaminophenol, 2,2-dihydroxyethylaminotoluene, toluene-1,5-diamine, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylaminoanisole, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 1 ,5-naphthalenediol, 4-amino-2- hydroxytoluene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 4-amino-m-cresol, 2-methylresorcinol, 6-amino-m- cresol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenyl
  • bleaching agents are compounds capable of imparting a colour that is lighter than the natural colour of hair.
  • bleaching agent Any bleaching agent known to the person skilled in the art is suitable for use in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the bleaching agents according to the present invention are persulphate salts, more preferably, potassium or ammonium persulphate or a combination thereof.
  • straightening agents are compounds capable of imparting a straighter appearance to hair. Any straightening agent known to the person skilled in the art is suitable for use in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the straightening agent is a chemical compound capable of breaking the disulphide bonds within the keratin fibres (straightening chemical compounds) or else a mixture of keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof.
  • Straightening chemical compounds are preferably alkaline compounds (hereinafter, alkaline straightening chemical compounds), preferably sodium, lithium or calcium hydroxide, or combinations of such alkaline agents or salts thereof with other alkaline agents such as, for example, guanidine carbonate.
  • alkaline straightening chemical compounds preferably sodium, lithium or calcium hydroxide, or combinations of such alkaline agents or salts thereof with other alkaline agents such as, for example, guanidine carbonate.
  • straightening chemical compounds are preferably compounds that reduce the aforesaid disulphide bonds (hereinafter, reducing chemical compounds), which, as described below, are also used as permanent waving agents.
  • reducing chemical compounds are mercaptan (thiol) derivatives; sulphites or bisulphites; sulphides; alkaline agents or water vapour; phosphine; borohydrides; hydrosulphites; sulphoxylates or ester salts thereof, for example sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde, cyanidric acid or a salt thereof.
  • Preferred mercaptan derivatives are for example thioacids such as hydrosulphuric (H2S), thioglycolic and thiolactic acid; salts thereof, for example, potassium, lithium, magnesium and ammonium salts; derivatives thereof, such as, for example, thioglycolic hydrazide and glyceryl monothioglycolate.
  • Another suitable mercaptan derivative is cysteamine, optionally in chloride form.
  • Preferred sulphites and bisulphites are for example alkaline sulphites or bisulphites, such as, for example, sodium or ammonium sulphite and bisulphite.
  • Preferred phosphines for example the tris(hydroxymethyl)phosphine (THP) or the precursor thereof, tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride.
  • Preferred sulphoxylates and salts thereof are sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde, cyanidric acid or a salt thereof.
  • permanent waving agents are compounds capable of imparting a wavy or curly appearance to hair.
  • Any permanent waving agent known to the person skilled in the art is suitable for use in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the permanent waving agent is a chemical compound capable of breaking the disulphide bond within keratin fibres, as described above, more preferably a reducing chemical compound as described above.
  • (III) consists in at least one colouring agent.
  • (III) consists in at least one bleaching agent.
  • (III) consists in at least one straightening agent consisting of a straightening chemical compound.
  • (III) consists in at least one straightening agent based on keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof.
  • (III) consists in at least one reducing chemical compound.
  • the composition comprises
  • (III) optionally, at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents, and
  • the composition comprises
  • (III) optionally, at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents, and
  • the composition comprises
  • composition comprises
  • the composition comprises:
  • the composition comprises
  • Suitable alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acids suitable are preferably selected from, but not limited to the following group: maleic, fumaric, citraconic, mesaconic and itaconic acid.
  • Citraconic, mesaconic and itaconic acids are also known by the name, respectively, of methyl maleic, methyl fumaric and 2-methyl succinic acid; the corresponding anhydrides can also be conveniently used in the composition of the present invention.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid selected from among maleic acid and fumaric acid; more preferably it comprises maleic acid.
  • the composition of the present invention does not comprise component (III); more preferably, said composition consists in components (I), (II) and (IV).
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one monomer of formula (I) in a percentage by weight of at least 5%, 8%, 11% or 13%.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one monomer of formula (I) at most in a percentage by weight of 25%, 20% or 18%.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one monomer of formula (I) in a percentage by weight comprised between 5% and 25%, more preferably between 10% and 20% or between 13% and 18%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid in a percentage by weight of at least 5%, 8%, 11 % or 13% % relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises at most a percentage by weight of at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid of 25%, 20% or 18%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises a percentage by weight of at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid comprised between 5% and 25%, more preferably between 10% and 20%, between 13% and 18%, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises a percentage by weight of maleic acid comprised between 5% and 25%, more preferably between 10% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably comprised between 11 % and 18%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid in a percentage by weight greater than 5%, 8%, 11% or 13% and at most in a percentage by weight of 25%, 20% or 18%.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer in a percentage by weight of at least 3%, 5%, 7% or 9%.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer at most in a percentage by weight of 20%, 16%, 13% or 12%.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer in a percentage by weight comprised between 3% and 20%, between 5% and 16%, or between 7% and 13%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises a percentage by weight of at least one polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP, of at least 3%, 5%, 7% or 9%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • PVP polyvinyl lactam
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises at most a percentage by weight of at least one polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP, of 20%, 16%, 13% or 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • PVP polyvinyl lactam
  • the composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component III, comprises a percentage by weight of at least one polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP, comprised between 3% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferably comprised between 5% and 16%, even more preferably comprised between 7% and 13%.
  • PVP polyvinyl lactam
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1 ; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1, more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1 ; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • composition of the present invention comprises: (I) maleic acid,
  • the aforesaid composition does not comprise component (III). Even more preferably, the aforesaid composition consists in components (I), (II) and (IV).
  • composition of the present invention comprises:
  • the aforesaid composition does not comprise component (III). Even more preferably, the aforesaid composition consists in components (I), (II) and (IV).
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1 ; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • composition of the present invention comprises component (III).
  • the aforesaid composition comprising component (III), comprises at least one monomer of formula (I), preferably of at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid, more preferably maleic acid, in a percentage by weight of at least 0.3%, 0.5%,1%, 1.5%, 2% or 2.5%; a percentage by weight of less than 5%, 4.5%, 4% or 3.5%; preferably a percentage by weight comprised between 0.3% and less than 5%, more preferably between 0.5% and 4.5% or between 0.5% and 4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • formula (I) preferably of at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid, more preferably maleic acid
  • the aforesaid composition comprising component (III) comprises at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer, preferably a polyvinyl lactam, more preferably PVP, in a percentage by weight of at least 0.1 %, 0.2%, 0.5%, 1% or 1.5%; a percentage by weight of less than 3% or 2.5%; preferably a percentage by weight comprised between 0.1% and less than 3%, more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • a composition of the present invention comprising component (III), wherein (III) is a colouring agent can comprise one or more colouring agents.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a colouring agent
  • the percentage of colouring agent, on its own or in a mixture is at least 0.01% or 0.1 %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a colouring agent
  • the percentage of colouring agent, on its own or in a mixture is at most 5% or 4%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a colouring agent
  • the percentage of colouring agent, on its own or in a mixture is comprised between 0.01 % and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a colouring agent, can be formulated as a solution, dispersion or cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension; preferably it is formulated as a cream.
  • the percentage of bleaching agent, on its own or in a mixture is at least 30% or 35% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the percentage of bleaching agent, on its own or in a mixture is at most 60% or 55%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the percentage of bleaching agent, on its own or in a mixture is comprised between 30% and 60%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a bleaching agent, can be formulated as a powder or as a cream.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture, is preferably at least 3% or 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture is at most 10% or 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture, is comprised between 3% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition and said composition can be formulated as a solution, dispersion or cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension; preferably it is formulated as a cream.
  • (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture, is comprised between 3% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition and said composition can be formulated as a solution, dispersion or cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension; preferably it is formulated as a cream.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one alkaline straightening chemical compound, the percentage of the alkaline straightening agent, on its own or in a mixture, is at least 1 % or 3%; at most 10% or 8%; in a percentage comprised between 1 % and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition can be formulated as a solution, dispersion, liquid emulsion or suspension, or cream; preferably it is formulated as a cream.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a mixture of keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof, said agent is preferably present in the composition in a percentage of at least 1% or 1.5%; at most in a percentage of 5% or 4.5%; or in a percentage comprised between 1% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and can be formulated as a solution, dispersion or cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension; preferably it is formulated as a cream.
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a permanent waving agent based on at least one reducing chemical compound, the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture, is at least 3% or 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the percentage of the reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture is at most 10% or 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the percentage of the reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture is comprised between
  • composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is permanent waving agent based on at least one reducing chemical compound, can be formulated as a solution, dispersion or cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension; preferably it is formulated as a solution or dispersion.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) the monomer of formula (I) and (II) the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1 ; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1, more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio between the monomer units of formula (I) and the monomer units making up the non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer of formula (II) is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1 ; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • (III) at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents, and permanent waving agents, and
  • (III) optionally, at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents, and
  • composition of the present invention comprises:
  • maleic acid between 0.3% and less than 5%, more preferably between 0.5% and 4.5%, even more preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • PVP between 0.1 % and less than 3%, more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • At least one colouring agent preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 0.01 % or 0.1 %; preferably equal to or less than 5% or 4%; preferably comprised between 0.01 % and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (IV) at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • At least one bleaching agent preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 30% or 35%; preferably equal to or less than 60% or 55%; preferably comprised between 30% and 60%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing straightening chemical compound, preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 3% or at least 5%; preferably equal to or less than 10% or all'8%; preferably comprised between 3% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • a straightening agent consisting of at least one straightening chemical compound alkaline, preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 1% or at least 3%; preferably equal to or less than 10%, 8%; preferably comprised between 1% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • maleic acid between 0.3% and less than 5%, more preferably between 0.5% and 4.5%, even more preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • PVP between 0.1 % and less than 3%, more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • At least one straightening agent based on keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof preferably, said agent is in a percentage of at least 1 % or 1.5%; preferably it is equal to or less than 5%, 4.5%; preferably it is in a percentage comprised between 1% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • a straightening or permanent waving agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, wherein preferably the percentage of reducing agent, on its own or in a mixture, is at least 3% or 5%, preferably it is at most 10% or 8%; preferably it is comprised between 3% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is less than 3:1 , preferably less than 2:1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is greater than 0.5:1 , preferably greater than 1 :1 , more preferably around 1.5:1.
  • the ratio by weight between (I) maleic acid and (II) PVP is comprised between 3:1 and 0.5:1 ; more preferably it is comprised between 2:1 and 1 :1; even more preferably it is comprised between 1.7:1 and 1.3:1.
  • Cosmetically acceptable excipients are selected from, but not limited to, the group: a) buffering agents, b) preservatives, c) conditioners, d) heat protectants, e) colouring agents, f) fragrances and g) diluents.
  • the composition of the present invention can comprise a) buffering agents; suitable buffering agents are alkaline agents. Examples of typically used alkaline agents are sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium metasilicate, calcium oxide, ammonium hydroxide and amines.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide or monoethanolamine (MEA).
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a percentage by weight of monoethanolamine of at least 3%, 5%, 7%, 9%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at most a percentage by weight of monoethanolamine of 20%, 16%, 13%, 12%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a percentage by weight of monoethanolamine comprised between 3% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferably comprised between 5% and 16%, even more preferably comprised between 7% and 13%.
  • composition of the present invention can comprise b) one or more preservatives to prevent microbial growth.
  • Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerine and the derivatives thereof, for example ethylhexylglycerine, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, parabens such as, for example, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc., sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate and/or grapefruit seed extracts, or a combination thereof. More than one preservative can be included in the formulation.
  • preservatives known in the cosmetic industry include salicylic acid, dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium - 15 (hexamethylenetetramine chloroallyl chloride), stearalconium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulphite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalconium chloride, sodium sulphite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, essential oils, lactic acid and vitamin E (tocopherol).
  • DMDM hydantoin dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin
  • formaldehyde chlorphene
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a percentage by weight of preservative comprised between 0.1 % and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 3%.
  • the composition of the present invention contains no parabens. More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises phenoxyethanol, even more it preferably comprises about 1 % by weight of phenoxyethanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can comprise c) one or more conditioners for imparting a nourishing, hydrating conditioner-type action.
  • Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, silicone-based agents (for example, silicone quaternium-8), polyols, such as sorbitol and glycerine, and polyesters such as glyceryl esters, panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat and/or soy proteins, soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, amino acids, rice bran wax, emollient oils such as, for example, mango seed oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba seed oil, melon seed oil, hazel seed oil, sweet almond oil, plant extracts, such as, for example, aloe leaf extract and aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cyclopentasiloxane, quaternium
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a percentage of conditioner comprised between 0.001 % and 0.05% by weight of the formulation, preferably between 0.01 % and 0.03%.
  • composition of the present invention contains no silicone-based agents.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises an amino acid mixture, even more preferably said amino acid mixture comprises: aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, arginine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine and phenylalanine; even more preferably it comprises between about 0.01 % and about 0.03% by weight of an amino acid mixture selected from among aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine.
  • the composition of the present invention further comprises a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles; even more preferably, the mixture represents between about 0.001% and about 0.003% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention can comprise d) one or more heat-protectant agents, such as, for example, sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, preferably between about 0.01 % and about 0.03% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • heat-protectant agents such as, for example, sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, preferably between about 0.01 % and about 0.03% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention can comprise e) one or more colouring agents and/or f) fragrances that are acceptable and known to the person skilled in the art.
  • composition of the present invention can comprise g) one or more diluents.
  • a diluent refers to one or more substance(s) which dilute the mixture comprising the at least one alpha, beta monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid and PVP.
  • Water is the preferred diluent; demineralised water is even more preferred.
  • the formulations typically contain a percentage by weight of water comprised between about 49% and 92%, preferably between 55% and 70%, or between 60% and 65%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention further comprises: (IVa) monoethanolamine, between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention further comprises: (I Vb) phenoxyethanol, about 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and/or (Hid) an amino acid mixture selected from among aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine, from 0.01 % to 0.03% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and/or
  • (IVc2) a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles, between 0.001% and 0.003% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and/or
  • said composition can further comprise metals having a valence greater than 1, preferably selected from among calcium, magnesium, strontium, zinc and aluminium, more preferably calcium and magnesium, in an amount preferably comprised between 0.5 and 2.5 M. It is known that such metals are capable of binding and insolubilizing polymer chains, as taught, for example, by US3472243.
  • composition consists in:
  • an amino acid mixture selected from among aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine, between 0.01 % and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
  • (IVc2) a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles, between 0.001 % and 0.003% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 3d) sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, between 0.01 % and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • a composition of the present invention preferably not comprising component (III) or consisting in (I) (II) and (IV), generally has a pH value greater than 3.5, preferably greater than 4, greater than 5, or greater than 5.5.
  • composition preferably not comprising component (III), or consisting in (I) (II) and (IV), generally has a pH value of less than 8, preferably less than 7, more preferably less than 6.
  • composition preferably not comprising component (III) or consisting in (I) (II) and (IV), has a pH value comprised between 4 and 7, preferably comprised between 4.5 and 6.5, more preferably comprised between 5.5 and 6.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention can be formulated in liquid, cream, shampoo or conditioner form.
  • the formulation can be in liquid form as described above.
  • the formulation can be in the form of a cream.
  • the cream typically contains the composition of the present invention in a suitable carrier known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, an oil, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more emulsifiers, a hair conditioning agent, and/or a thickening agent.
  • the cream can also include a fragrance, a plant extract, and/or a surfactant.
  • the cream can be packaged in a tube, bottle or other suitable container.
  • composition of the invention can be included in the cream in any suitable concentration; typical concentrations of the composition of the present invention in the cream range from 0.001 %, preferably at least 0.1 %, to at most 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the cream; more preferably the cream contains from 0.1% to 5%, even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight of the composition of the present invention relative to the total weight of the cream.
  • the formulation can be in the form of a shampoo.
  • the shampoo typically includes the composition of the present invention in a suitable carrier known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, a surfactant material.
  • surfactants used in shampoo compositions are well known in the art; they are usually present in shampoo in a concentration comprised between 0.5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the shampoo.
  • the shampoo can also include fragrances, plant extracts, conditioning agents, active ingredients with specific functions such as anti-dandruff, etc.
  • composition of the invention can be included in the shampoo in any suitable concentration; typical concentrations of the composition of the present invention in the shampoo range from 0.01%, preferably at least 0.1 %, to at most 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the shampoo; more preferably from 0.1 % to 5%, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the shampoo.
  • the formulation can be in the form of a conditioner.
  • the conditioner typically includes the composition of the present invention in a suitable carrier known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, cationic polymers derived from polysaccharides, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more emulsifiers, hair conditioning agents and fragrances.
  • the composition of the invention can be included in the conditioner in any suitable concentration; typical concentrations of the composition of the present invention in the conditioner range from 0.01 %, preferably at least 0.1 %, to at most 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the conditioner; more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, even more preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the conditioner.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III) can be formulated in liquid form as a solution or dispersion; solid form as a powder; or in the form of a cream; said dispersion can be a liquid emulsion or suspension.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • At least one straightening or permanent waving agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of between 3% and 10% relative to the total weight of the composition
  • liquid form (III) is a permanent waving agent.
  • Cosmetically acceptable excipients for liquid formulations include, but are not limited to, diluents, emulsifiers, thickeners, chelating agents, buffering agents, reducing agents, preservatives, heat protectant agents, etc.
  • Suitable diluents can be water, preferably demineralized, and propylene glycol.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are non-ionic lipophilic emulsifiers or anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic hydrophilic emulsifiers; suitable emulsifiers can be, for example, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl alcohol, ceteareth-30, cocamide MEA, oleic acid, ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulphate or cetrimonium chloride.
  • Suitable thickeners are for example polymers such as cera alba, xanthan gum or guar gum.
  • Suitable chelating agents are for example EDTA, optionally as a sodium salt.
  • Suitable buffering agents are alkaline buffering agents, such as, for example, sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium metasilicate, calcium oxide, ammonium hydroxide, or amines such as, for example, monoethanolamine.
  • Suitable reducing agents are for example sodium hydrosulphite and ascorbic acid.
  • Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerine and derivatives thereof, for example ethylhexylglycerine, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol; parabens such as, for example, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben etc., sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or a combination thereof. More than one preservative can be included in the formulation.
  • glycerine and derivatives thereof for example ethylhexylglycerine, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol
  • parabens such as, for example, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben etc.
  • sodium benzoate ethylenediaminete
  • preservatives known in the cosmetic industry include salicylic acid, dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin (DMDM hydantoin), formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium - 15 (hexamethylenetetramine chloroallyl chloride), stearalconium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulphite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalconium chloride, sodium sulphite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, essential oils, lactic acid and vitamin E (tocopherol).
  • DMDM hydantoin dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin
  • formaldehyde chlorphene
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention can also comprise one or more conditioning agents to impart a conditioning, nourishing and hydrating activity.
  • suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, silicone-based agents (for example, silicone quaternium-8), polyols, such as sorbitol and glycerine, and polyesters such as glyceryl esters, panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat and/or soy proteins, keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof, soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, amino acids, rice bran wax, emollient oils such as, for example, mango seed oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba seed oil, melon seed oil, hazel seed oil, sweet almond oil, plant extracts, such as, for example, aloe leaf extract and aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cycl
  • composition of the present invention does not contain silicone-based agents.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention can also comprise an amino acid mixture, even more preferably said amino acid mixture comprises: aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine and phenylalanine; even more preferably comprises an amino acid mixture selected from among aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine.
  • composition of the present invention further comprises a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention can comprise one or more heat protectant agents, such as, for example, sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer.
  • the composition of the present invention can also comprise one or more fragrances that are acceptable and known to the person skilled in the art.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • Cosmetically acceptable excipients for powder formulations include, but are not limited to, diluents such as, for example, silica, silicates such as, for example, sodium silicate or metasilicate, carbonates such as, for example, sodium or magnesium carbonate and polysaccharides such as, for example, guar gum; emulsifiers such as, for example, sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium stearate; chelating agents such as, for example, EDTA disodium salt or tetrasodium salt; lubricants such as, for example, vaseline oil.
  • diluents such as, for example, silica, silicates such as, for example, sodium silicate or metasilicate, carbonates such as, for example, sodium or magnesium carbonate and polysaccharides such as, for example, guar gum
  • emulsifiers such as, for example, sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium stearate
  • chelating agents such as, for
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises:
  • At least one alkaline straightening chemical compound preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of between 1% and 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, or
  • the cream typically contains the composition in accordance with the invention in a suitable carrier known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, an oil, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more emulsifiers, a hair conditioning agent, and/or a thickening agent.
  • a suitable carrier known to the person skilled in the art, such as, for example, an oil, one or more fatty alcohols, one or more emulsifiers, a hair conditioning agent, and/or a thickening agent.
  • the cream can also include a fragrance, a plant extract, and/or a surfactant.
  • Cosmetically acceptable excipients for creams include, but are not limited to, diluents such as, for example, silica, silicates such as, for example, sodium silicate or metasilicate and polysaccharides such as, for example, guar gum; emulsifiers such as, for example, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium stearate, cera alba or isopropyl myristate; chelating agents such as, for example, EDTA disodium salt or tetrasodium salt; lubricants such as, for example, vaseline oil or petrolatum; thickeners such as, for example, cellulose derivatives such as, for example, hydroxymethyl cellulose.
  • diluents such as, for example, silica, silicates such as, for example, sodium silicate or metasilicate and polysaccharides such as, for example, guar gum
  • emulsifiers such as, for example, sodium lauryl sulphate
  • the pH of a composition of the present invention comprising (III) will vary depending on whether said composition is a composition for a dyeing treatment, a bleaching or straightening agent or one for permanent waving.
  • the suitable pH for each type of composition is determined by the amount of buffering agent(s) as defined above that are present in the composition.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one oxidation dye, generally has a pH value at most of 11 , preferably at most of 10.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one oxidation dye, generally has a pH value of at least 9, preferably of at least 9.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one oxidation dye, generally has a pH value comprised between 9 and 11 , preferably comprised between 9.5 and 10.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one direct dye, generally has a pH value at most of 11 , preferably at most of 10.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one direct dye, generally has a pH value of at least 4.5 preferably of at least 5.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one direct dye, generally has a pH value comprised between 4.5 and 11 , preferably comprised between 5.5 and 10.5.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one bleaching agent and said composition is formulated as a cream, generally has a pH value at most of 11.6 or 11.4; and/or at least of 10.4 or 10.8; preferably comprised between 10.4 and 11.6, or between 10.8 and 11.4.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a permanent waving or a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, generally has a pH value at most of 9, preferably at most of 8.7.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a permanent waving or a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, generally has a pH value of at least 8, preferably of at least 8.3.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a permanent waving or a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, generally has a pH value comprised between 8 and 9, preferably comprised between 8.3 and 8.7.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one alkaline chemical compound, generally has a pH value at most of 13.3, preferably at most of 13.1.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one alkaline chemical compound, generally has a pH value of at least 12.5, preferably of at least 12.3.
  • a composition of the present invention comprising (III), wherein (III) is a straightening agent consisting of at least one alkaline chemical compound generally has a pH value comprised between 12.5 and 13.3, preferably comprised between 12.3 and 13.1.
  • a second object of the present invention relates to the preparation of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • the second object of the present invention relates to the preparation of a composition in accordance with the first object of the invention, comprising the following steps:
  • step a) is carried out at a temperature comprised between 15 and 35°C, more preferably at room temperature (25°C), mixing until reaching homogeneity.
  • the ingredients of step a) are added in a thin stream while monitoring the stability of the temperature.
  • all of the other ingredients are added one at a time, at room temperature, mixing until reaching complete solubilization and/or homogeneity.
  • the preparation of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises the following steps:
  • an amino acid mixture selected from among aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine,
  • a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomes premixed with water.
  • a third object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in cosmetic treatments.
  • the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention is used in the hair or skin treatments, more preferably in hair treatments, such as, for example, dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, straightening or restructuring treatments.
  • a fourth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in the treatment of hair comprising
  • the hair before being treated in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention, can be washed with a shampoo and/or treated with a conditioner; alternatively, the hair can be rinsed with water; alternatively, the composition in accordance with the first object of the present invention can be applied on dry hair.
  • step A) can comprise applying to the hair the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention premixed with a peroxide and/or with a conditioner.
  • a peroxide is selected from among, but is not limited to: organic and inorganic peroxides and hydroperoxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, calcium peroxide, potassium persulphate and sodium percarbonate.
  • the premixture contains from 0.5 g to 2 g of hydrogen peroxide, liquid or cream, preferably 1 g per 10 ml of composition in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • said conditioner comprises:
  • sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer at least one surfactant, at least one preservative and optionally a mixture of vegetable oils; preferably, said mixture of vegetable oils comprises: soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles; preferably, the premixture contains 15 ml of conditioner for 10 ml of composition in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • the fourth object of the present invention after step B) can comprise
  • the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention can be applied every day and the application can be a single one or repeated.
  • the amount of composition applied depends on the length of the hair; it is typically comprised between about 0.5 ml and about 20 ml; preferably between about 5 ml and about 20 ml; more preferably, about 10 ml of the composition of the present invention is applied.
  • the composition applied in step A) is left on for a time comprised between about 2 minutes and about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes; preferably, step A) is repeated once or more than once; more preferably it is repeated from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes after the first application.
  • heat is applied in step B) for a time comprised between about 5 and about 20 minutes, more preferably around 15 minutes; preferably, the temperature of the heat source is comprised between about 35°C and about 50°C, more preferably around about 45°C.
  • step C) is performed from about 1 minute to about 20 minutes after step B); preferably, step C) comprises rinsing and applying a conditioner.
  • the conditioner is left on for a period comprised between about 1 and about 5 minutes, more preferably around 2-3 minutes.
  • the conditioner has the same composition as the conditioner optionally applied in step A).
  • the use of the composition in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention before step A) can comprise:
  • A' providing a straightening composition, preferably containing, as a straightening agent, a mixture of keratin and hydrolysates thereof and applying it on the hair,
  • A' providing a colouring composition, preferably containing, as a colouring agent, a direct dye and applying it on the hair,
  • the use relates to the composition comprising:
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • a fifth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair dyeing treatment comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one colouring agent,
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising colouring agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), preferably leaving it on for a time comprised between about 2 minutes and about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes,
  • the fifth object of the present invention after step C) can comprise
  • the colouring composition, the peroxide, if used, and the present composition can be mixed in any other order, the additions preferably always being in rapid succession.
  • the mixing of the components takes place just before the application thereof on hair.
  • the amount of the composition of the present invention and of the colouring composition depend on the length of the hair; in dyeing treatments, the ratio by volume between the colouring composition, peroxide and composition of the present invention is typically 1 :1 :0.1 , for example, about 1 ml of composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 10 g or ml of colouring composition; alternatively, the ratio by volume between the colouring composition, peroxide and composition of the present invention can be 1 :2:0.15, for example about 7.5 ml of composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 50 g or ml of colouring composition.
  • said peroxide is selected from among, but is not limited to: organic and inorganic peroxides and hydroperoxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, calcium peroxide, potassium persulphate and sodium percarbonate. More preferably it is hydrogen peroxide in a cream or in solution, between 3% and 12% by weight.
  • the composition applied in step C) is left on for a time comprised between about 20 minutes and about 35 minutes.
  • the dyeing treatment comprises applying a direct dye composition.
  • the direct dye composition is generally not pre-mixed with a peroxide.
  • said dye composition is mixed with a composition in accordance with the first object of the invention; more preferably, about 1 ml of composition of the present invention is mixed in per 10 g of direct dye composition.
  • step D) comprises rinsing, applying a shampoo and applying a conditioner.
  • the conditioner optionally applied in step D) is left on for a period comprised between about 1 and about 10 minutes, more preferably around 5 minutes.
  • the conditioner optionally applied in step D) has the same composition as described in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention.
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • At least one colouring agent preferably in a percentage on its own or in a mixture, of at least 0.01 %, 0.1%; preferably equal to or less than 5% or 4%; preferably comprised between 0.01 % and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • a sixth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair bleaching treatment comprising
  • composition resulting from A) a composition in accordance with the first object of the invention, preferably not comprising bleaching agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV),
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one bleaching agent, B) mixing it with a peroxide,
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising bleaching agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), preferably leaving it on for a time comprised between about 2 minutes and about 15 minutes, preferably for about 5 minutes,
  • the sixth object of the present invention after step C) can comprise
  • the bleaching composition, the peroxide and the present composition can be mixed in any other order, the additions preferably always being in rapid succession.
  • the mixing of the components takes place just before the application thereof on hair.
  • the amount of a composition of the present invention and of a bleaching composition depends on the length of the hair; in bleaching treatments, the ratio between the weight of the bleaching composition, the volume of peroxide and the volume of the composition of the present invention is typically 1 :1 :0.2, for example about 2 ml of the composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 10 g of bleaching composition; alternatively, the ratio between the weight of the bleaching composition, the volume of peroxide and the volume of the composition of the present invention can be 1 :2:0.16, for example about 4 ml of composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 25 g of bleaching composition.
  • said peroxide is selected from among, but is not limited to: organic and inorganic peroxides and hydroperoxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, calcium peroxide, potassium persulphate and sodium percarbonate. More preferably it is hydrogen peroxide in a cream or solution, between 3% and 12% by weight.
  • Suitable bleaching compositions are all those known to the person skilled in the art, for example those based on a persulphate salt.
  • the composition resulting from B) preferably not comprising component (III), more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), has a pH value greater than 9.5, preferably greater than 10.
  • the composition resulting from B) preferably not comprising component (III), more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV) has a pH value of less than 12.5, preferably less than 12, more preferably less than 11.
  • the composition resulting from B) preferably not comprising component (III), more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV), has a pH value comprised between 9.5 and 11.5; preferably it is comprised between 10 and 11.
  • the ratio by weight of a composition comprising (III), wherein component (III) is a bleaching agent, and peroxide is 2:1.
  • said peroxide is as defined above.
  • the composition applied in step C) is left on for a time comprised between about 10 minutes and about 60 minutes.
  • step D) comprises rinsing, applying a shampoo and applying a conditioner.
  • the conditioner applied in step D) is left on for a period comprised between about 1 and about 10 minutes, more preferably around 5 minutes.
  • the conditioner optionally applied in step D) has the same composition as described in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention.
  • the use preferably relates to the composition comprising or consisting in:
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • At least one bleaching agent preferably a persulphate salt, more preferably potassium persulphate or ammonium or a combination thereof; preferably the percentage of the bleaching agent, on its own or in a mixture, is at least 30%, 35%, preferably it is at most 60%, 55%, preferably it is comprised between 30% and 60%, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
  • a seventh object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair straightening treatment comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is at least one straightening agent,
  • step C) can comprise
  • the hair before being treated in accordance with the seventh object of the present invention, can be washed with a shampoo and/or treated with a conditioner; alternatively, the hair can be rinsed with water; alternatively, the composition in accordance with the first object of the present invention can be applied to dry hair.
  • the straightening composition can be based on conventional chemical agents, such as, for example, thioglycolic acid and the salts thereof, known to the person skilled in the art, or can be based on keratin and/or hydrolysates thereof.
  • the amount of a composition of the present invention and of straightening composition depends on the length of the hair; in straightening treatments the ratio between the volume of the straightening composition based on chemical agents and the volume of the composition of the present invention is 1 :0.2 , for example, about 10 ml of the composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 50 ml of the straightening composition based on chemical agents; alternatively, the ratio between the weight of the keratin-based straightening composition and the volume of the composition of the present invention can be 10:1 , for example about 1 ml of the composition of the present invention can be mixed in per 10 g of the keratin-based straightening composition or about 1 ml of composition of the present invention for 10 g of keratin-based straightening composition can be applied to the hair after the keratin-based straightening composition.
  • the peroxide of the aforesaid step B) or C) is selected from among, but not limited to: organic and inorganic peroxides and hydroperoxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, calcium peroxide, potassium persulphate and sodium percarbonate. More preferably it is hydrogen peroxide in a cream or solution between 3% and 12% by weight.
  • the composition of the present invention is left on for a time comprised between about 5 minutes and about 25 minutes.
  • step D) comprises rinsing and applying a conditioner.
  • the conditioner applied in step D) is left on for a period comprised between about 1 and about 10 minutes, more preferably around 5 minutes.
  • the conditioner optionally applied in step D) has the same composition as described in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention.
  • the use preferably relates to a composition comprising or consisting in:
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • the use preferably relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising:
  • a straightening agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 3% or 5%, preferably equal to or less than 10 or 8%, preferably comprised between 3% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • a straightening agent consisting of at least one alkaline chemical straightening compound, preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 1% or 3%; preferably equal to or less than 10%, 8%; preferably comprised between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • An eighth object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition in accordance with the first object of the invention in a hair permanent waving treatment comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention preferably not comprising permanent waving agents, more preferably not comprising component (III), even more preferably consisting in (I), (II) and (IV);
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising (III), wherein component (III) is a permanent waving agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound,
  • the eighth object of the present invention after step C) can comprise
  • the amount of a composition of the present invention depends on the length of the hair; from about 25 to about 30 ml of composition of the present invention are typically applied.
  • Agents suitable for the permanent waving treatment are all the permanent waving agents consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound known to the person skilled in the art.
  • said peroxide is selected from among, but is not limited to: organic and inorganic peroxides and hydroperoxides such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, calcium peroxide, potassium persulphate and sodium percarbonate. More preferably it is hydrogen peroxide in a cream or solution between 3% and 12% by weight.
  • the composition of the present invention is left on for a time comprised between about 5 minutes and about 25 minutes.
  • the conditioner applied in step D) is left on for a period comprised between about 1 and about 10 minutes, more preferably around 5 minutes.
  • the conditioner optionally applied in step D) has the same composition as described in accordance with the fourth object of the present invention.
  • the use preferably relates to a composition comprising or consisting in:
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • the use preferably relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising:
  • At least one permanent waving agent consisting of at least one reducing chemical compound, preferably in a percentage, on its own or in a mixture, of at least 3% or 5%, preferably equal to or less than 10% or 8%, preferably comprised between 3% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • a ninth object of the present invention is a kit for the treatment of hair comprising
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention (i) at least one conditioner.
  • composition in accordance with the first object of the invention comprises
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 3% and 16%, more preferably between 5% and 13%, even more preferably between 7% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • the at least one non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer preferably a polyvinyl lactam, preferably PVP between 0.2% and less than 3%, more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • (III) at least one component selected from among: colouring agents, bleaching agents, straightening agents and permanent waving agents, and
  • the conditioner comprises sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, at least one surfactant, at least one preservative and optionally a mixture of vegetable oils; preferably, said mixture of vegetable oils comprises: soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles.
  • Example 1 a - Preparation of a representative composition in accordance with the first object of the invention
  • composition of the invention was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 5.8.
  • Example 1 b Preparation of a colouring composition in cream form in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • composition representative of the invention was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • liquid dye compound comprising cetearyl alcohol, cocamide MEA, ceteareth-20 and ceteth-2
  • step a) 22.5 g of liquid dye compound and 2 g of alcohol were mixed in a melting vessel.
  • step b) 49 g of demineralized water, 0.2 g of anti-foaming agent 20%, 0.9 g of sodium sulphite, 5 g of propylene glycol, 0.25 g of EDTA, were mixed, heated to 65°C and mixed until homogenized.
  • step c) the composition resulting from a) was added to the composition resulting from b), mixed and cooled to a room temperature of 20-25°C and then the following were added:
  • step d) 6 g of ammonia was added to the composition resulting from c).
  • step e 4.3 g of demineralized water, 0.9 g of 30% PVP, 0.75 g of maleic acid and 1.2 g of ammonia were added to the composition resulting from d).
  • step f) 0.5 g of an amino acid mixture, and 0.5 g of hydroxypropyl polysilanols of hydrolyzed vegetable proteins were added to the composition resulting from e) of.
  • step g 0. 5 g of demineralized water and 0.01 g of nio-protect were added to the composition resulting from f).
  • step h) the composition resulting from g) 0.25 g of L-ascorbic acid and 0.5 g of demineralized water were added to the composition resulting from g).
  • step i) 0.36 g of sodium hydrosulphite and 0.5 g of demineralized water were added to the composition resulting from h).
  • step I) 0.5 g of fragrance was added to the composition resulting from i).
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 9.5.
  • Example 1c Preparation of a colouring composition in cream form in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • composition representative of the invention 100 grams was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • step a) 10 g of cetyl alcohol, 5 g of stearyl alcohol, 5 g of myristyl alcohol, 4.5 g of ceteareth-30 and 5 g of cocamide MEA were mixed in a melting vessel.
  • step b) 36.77 g of water, 0.5 g of sodium sulphite, 3 g of propylene glycol, 0.2 g of EDTA, 3 g of maleic acid, 6.5 g of 30% PVP (corresponding to 1.95% of PVP), and 0.33 g of a mixture of oxidation dyes consisting of 0.035 g of p-phenylenediamine, 0.080 g of 4-chlororesorcinol, 0.207 g of 2- methylresorcinol and 0.008 g of 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene were mixed, heated to 65°C and mixed until homogenized.
  • step c) the composition resulting from a) was added to the composition resulting from b), mixed and cooled to a room temperature of 20-25°C and then 4.5 g of ammonia, 5 g of oleic acid, 3.5 g of ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulphate and 5 g of isopropyl alcohol were added, mixing until reaching homogeneity.
  • step d) 2 g of rice amino acids and 0.2 g of fragrance were added to the composition resulting from c).
  • Example 1 d Preparation of a colouring composition in cream form in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • composition representative of the invention 100 grams was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • step a) 12 g of cetearyl alcohol, 3 g of cocamide MEA and 1 g of ceteareth-30 were melted at 75°C and mixed until reaching homogeneity.
  • step b) 59.6 g of water, 7 g of propylene glycol, 6 g of cetrimonium chloride, 3 g of maleic acid, 6.5 g of 30% PVP (corresponding to 1.95% of PVP), were mixed, heated to 75°C and mixed until homogenized.
  • step c) 1.8 g of a mixture of direct dyes consisting of 1.180 g of Acid Red 92 and 0.620 g of HC Yellow No. 22 was added to the composition resulting from b), mixing until reaching homogeneity.
  • step d) the composition resulting from c) was added to the composition resulting from a), turbined until forming an emulsion and cooled to 40-45°C.
  • step e 0.1 g of fragrance was added to the composition resulting from d).
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 5.0.
  • Example 1e Preparation of a bleaching composition in powder form in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • composition representative of the invention 100 grams was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • step a) 11 g of sodium carbonate, 20 g of sodium metasilicate, 15 g of ammonium persulphate, 40 g of potassium persulphate, 2 g of guar gum, 1 g of tetrasodium EDTA, 1 g of sodium lauryl sulphate,
  • step b) the resulting powder mixture was sieved through a 1000 micron sieve.
  • step c) 1.5 g of liquid vaseline oil was added continuously in a thin stream to the resulting powder, mixing with propeller stirrer.
  • step d) the resulting composition was sieved through a 1000 micron sieve and then mixed.
  • Example 1f Preparation of a bleaching composition in cream form in accordance with the first object of the invention.
  • composition representative of the invention 100 grams was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition): (I) 3% of maleic acid,
  • step a) 3.5 g of isopropyl myristate, 1 g of cera alba and 7 g of petrolatum were mixed in a melting vessel at a temperature not greater than 65-70°C.
  • step b) 25 g of liquid paraffin was loaded into the mixer at room temperature and added with the melted composition resulting from a) under vigorous stirring.
  • step c) 1 g of sodium stearate, 0.5 g of guar gum, 2 g of hydroxyethylcellulose, 1.5 g of sodium lauryl sulphate and 0.5 g of tetrasodium EDTA were added to the composition resulting from b) under stirring, maintaining the temperature at about 40°C.
  • step d) 7 g of sodium metasilicate, 3 g of maleic acid, 1.5 g of PVP and 5 g of sodium silicate, previously sieved, were added to the composition resulting from step c), under stirring and maintaining the temperature at about 35°C.
  • step e 1 g of silica, 25 g of potassium persulphate, 10 g of ammonium persulphate and 5 g of sodium persulphate were added to the composition resulting from step d), under stirring and maintaining the temperature at about 30-35°C.
  • step f) 0.5 g of liquid paraffin was added to the composition resulting from e).
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 11.0.
  • Example 1 q - Preparation of a permanent waving or straightening composition in liquid form in accordance with the first object of the invention comprising
  • composition representative of the invention 100 grams was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • step a) 10 g of cetearyl alcohol, 2 g of ceteareth-30, 1 g of isopropyl myristate, 0.5 g of cera alba and 0.3 g of Butyrospermum Parkii were made to melt at 80°C and mixed and 30 g of water was added to the resulting mixture at the same temperature, mixing until reaching homogeneity.
  • step b) 26.1 g of water, 7.5 g of thioglycolic acid, 12 g of ammonia, 3 g of maleic acid, 6.6 g of 30% PVP (corresponding to 1.95% of PVP), 0.5 g of hydrolyzed hemp seed protein hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, 0.5 g of fragrance and 0.1 g of phenoxyethanol, methyl, ethyl, and propyl parabene were mixed until reaching homogeneity and added to the composition resulting from a) after the latter had been cooled to 40°C.
  • Example 1 h Preparation of a representative composition in accordance with the first object of the invention, where acrylic acid was used as the activated vinylic monomer.
  • composition of the invention was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • Monoethanolamine was slowly added in a thin stream (75 g) to the resulting composition, under slow stirring and cooling; 10 g of MICROCARE PEHG (phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerine 9:1) was added, mixing until complete solubilization; 0.1 g of the amino acid mixture was added, mixing until reaching homogeneity; then 0.1 g of MIRUSTYLE X-HP (sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer) was added, mixing until complete solubilization; finally, 0.1 g of Nio-Protect (a mixture comprising water and soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 5.8.
  • Example 1 i Preparation of a representative composition in accordance with the first object of the invention where polyacrylamide was used as the non-ionic nitrogen-containing polymer.
  • a composition of the invention was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 5.8.
  • Example 11 Preparation of a control composition where maleic acid was used as the activated vinylic monomer and the non-ionic nitrogen-containing polymer was omitted.
  • a composition was prepared with the following ingredients (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition):
  • (IVc1) 0.01 % of an amino acid mixture comprising aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, serine, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine and phenylalanine
  • (Illc2) 0.001 % of a mixture comprising soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles, 3d) 0.01 % sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer,
  • the pH of said composition representative of the invention was around 5.8.
  • Cosmetic treatments act chemically upon hair, profoundly modifying the properties thereof. Such chemical reactions prevalently affect the disulphide bridges between thiol groups in keratin, which are irreversibly broken, impairing the structural characteristics of hair and consequently the visual appearance thereof. Moreover, cosmetic agents have physiochemical properties such as to dissolve and remove the natural fatty phase of hair, which assures hydration and shine.
  • the aesthetic evaluation of hair is influenced by such parameters as diameter, shine, softness, flexibility, smoothness and integrity.
  • compositions representative of the invention prepared as described in examples 1 a, 1 h, and 1 i, was evaluated on 1 g locks of natural hair subjected to bleaching treatment cycles in comparison with locks treated with the bleaching agent alone or subjected to bleaching treatment cycles with a comparative composition comprising a vinylic monomer but not the non-ionic nitrogen-containing polymer, prepared as described in 11.
  • every lock 4 treatment cycles with bleaching powder were performed; every cycle comprised: conventional bleaching (10 g of bleaching composition mixed with 20 g of cream containing hydrogen peroxide, 12% by weight) for 45 minutes, washing, treatment for 10 minutes with 15 ml of a conditioner comprising sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, propylene glycol, bis-stearoyl ethyldimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate and dicetyl phosphate delivered in niosomal vesicles, quaternuim-80, phenoxyethanol, dimethiconol, ceteareth-20, citric acid, ethyl
  • Each of said cycles comprised: applying, on the lock, the composition resulting from mixing the same amount of the conventional bleaching agent defined above with 2 ml of one of the compositions representative of the present invention 1 a, 1 h and 1 i), leaving it on for 45 minutes, washing, treating with 15ml of the conditioner described above for 10 minutes and rinsing and drying with a hair dryer.
  • the application sequence was modified.
  • every cycle comprised: applying 0.5 ml of composition representative of the present invention 1 a or the control composition 11 directly on the lock, leaving it on for 5 minutes, then applying the same amount of the conventional bleaching agent mixture described above and leaving it on for 45 minutes, washing, treating with 15 ml of the conditioner described above for 10 minutes and rinsing and drying with a hair dryer.
  • the lock in position 2 bleached with a conventional treatment without the addition of any composition appears damaged and matted.
  • the lock has completely lost its elasticity, appearing very rigid and extremely fragile, it feels very rough to the touch and has moreover completely lost its shine.
  • the lock in position 3 obtained using the composition described in example 1 a, proves to be the best, as it has an appearance comparable to that of the control lock in position 1 (before the treatments), plus greater shine. It feels very soft to the touch, flexible and smooth. The visible breakages appear to be extremely limited, combability is excellent and the hair's strength is attested by the fact that no fragments remain in the comb.
  • the protective properties of the composition do not influence the effectiveness of the bleaching treatment, as there were no differences in colour, during the various cycles, between the control and the treatment with the addition of the composition.
  • the lock in position 4 exhibits the same characteristics as the one in position 3 but to a slightly lesser degree. In particular, despite having good flexibility and combability, it feels less soft to the touch, particularly in the area near the ends. This does not seem to impair the strength of the hair, which does not break while the lock is combed.
  • the lock in position 5 is slightly more opaque than the lock in position 3.
  • the characteristics to the touch are comparable, however, and it also feels slightly softer and voluminous.
  • the comb glides through without any problems and does not retain any broken hairs.
  • the lock in position 6 has a better appearance than the lock in position 2, but the improvement is limited to a greater elasticity and flexibility and better combability. There is a certain roughness to the touch and a loss in shine and luminosity is also evident. As said, the lock is combable, but greater gentleness is necessary to avoid breakage. This result is in line with the hypothesis that in the absence of PVP polymerization of the maleic acid does not take place or is very limited. The presence of a bifunctional acid can lead, however, to improvements in the results due to the possible formation of secondary interactions between charged residues of the protein chains (which increase in number due to the oxidation of disulphide bridges to cysteic acid) and bifunctional species that can form bridges.
  • the lock in position 7 shows no particular differences compared to the lock in position 3; all the characteristics described above are confirmed, possibly with better shine and elasticity. However, there are apparently no significant differences between applying the composition preliminarily or mixing it with the cosmetic treatment before leaving it on hair, except for the fact that applying the composition preliminarily reduces its dispersion and consequently increases the concentration in contact with the hair and hence its absorption thereby.
  • a professional technician rated the lock of hair in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the average rating for every group of five locks of hair is shown in Table 1 , where A identifies a conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies a conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • every cycle comprised: applying the composition resulting from mixing the same amount of a conventional colouring agent as defined above with 2 ml of a composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1 a) for 30 minutes, washing, treatment with 15 ml of the conditioner described above for 10 minutes and rinsing and drying with a hair dryer.
  • the average rating for every group of five locks of hair is shown in Table 2, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • the average rating for every group of five locks of hair is shown in Table 3, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1 a) was applied on five locks previously damaged by 3 bleaching cycles carried out as documented in example 2a) and left on for 15 minutes under an infrared lamp (45°C).
  • Example 5 Effectiveness on models and lastingness.
  • composition representative of the invention prepared as described in example 1 a was assessed on models. For every treatment, the conventional procedure was carried out on one half of the head, and the composition of the present invention in addition to the respective conventional procedure was used on the other half of the head. An expert then assessed the difference on the basis of several standard parameters, both immediately after the respective treatments and after two weeks.
  • Bleaching treatment 2 bleaching cycles were performed on 2 subjects, on the left side with 30 g of a bleaching composition + 60 g of 9% hydrogen peroxide cream; on the right side with 30 g of bleaching composition + 60 g of 9% hydrogen peroxide cream + 6 ml of a composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1a). At the end of the treatments, about 20 ml of the conditioner described above was applied and left on for a period of 5 minutes. During the two-week test period, the subjects followed their usual methods in terms of combing, brushing and washing their hair, etc.
  • a professional technician rated the hair after every treatment cycle in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the average rating is shown in Table 5, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • a professional technician rated the hair after every treatment cycle in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the average rating is shown in Table 6, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • Permanent waving treatment permanent waving treatments were performed on 2 subjects, on the left side with 30 g of a permanent waving composition, left on for 15 minutes, followed by application of the neutralizer (3% hydrogen peroxide) for 10 minutes; on the right side with 30 g of a permanent waving composition, left on for 15 minutes, followed by application of about 30ml of a composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1 a) mixed with the neutralizer (3% hydrogen peroxide) left on for 10 minutes. At the end of the treatments, about 20 ml of the conditioner described above was applied and left on for a period of 5 minutes. During the two-week test period, the subjects followed their usual methods in terms of combing, brushing and washing their hair, etc.
  • a professional technician rated the hair after every treatment cycle in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the average rating is shown in Table 7, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • a professional technician rated the hair after every treatment cycle in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the rating is shown in Table 8, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • Restructuring treatment on 1 subject with lengths and ends previously chemically treated with a dye and highlights; on the left side, 25 g of a conventional commercial restructuring conditioner containing vegetable proteins was applied for 15 minutes.
  • a professional technician rated the hair after every treatment cycle in terms of shine, elasticity, texture and softness, assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the rating is shown in Table 9, where A identifies the conventional treatment without the addition of the composition representative of the present invention and B identifies the conventional treatment supplemented with the composition representative of the present invention.
  • Figures 2 and 3 show SEM photographs of the surface of the hair, which appears to be in good condition, prior to the treatment.
  • Figures 4-8 show SEM photographs of the surface of the hair after 4 conventional bleaching cycles.
  • photograph 4 one can see a detail of the end of a hair, the weakest part, which has a destroyed cuticle; in photograph 5 one can see damaged scales along the hair; in photograph 6 one can see longitudinal fractures; in photograph 7 one can see details of longitudinal fractures which highlight the exposure of the cortex; photograph 8 shows the phenomena of split ends due to the longitudinal fractures that occur near the ends.
  • Figures 9-12 show the photographs of the surface of the hair after 4 conventional bleaching cycles with the addition of the composition representative of the present invention (described in example 1 a).
  • Photograph 9 provides an overall view of the hair, which appears to be in good condition without the presence of longitudinal scale damage or exposure of the cortex; in photographs 10 and 11 one can see that the scale damage along the hair is much less marked than the scale damage shown in photograph 5; in photograph 12, which refers to the end of a hair, the phenomenon of split ends is not visible.
  • Locks treated as in the previous experiment were extracted with 1 :1 ethanoLdichloromethane.
  • the extract was filtered and brought to dryness.
  • the composition representative of the present invention was activated in vitro with potassium persulphate, incubated in a temperature-controlled bath at 35°C and brought to dryness.
  • the samples, together with a batch of the raw materials of the composition representative of the present invention, were incorporated into an inert evaporable matrix and subjected to laser desorption.
  • a time-of-flight (TOF) detector enables the characterization and determination of the molecular weight of a polymer that has formed.
  • Brown hair of the Caucasian type was obtained from Imhair (Palermo, Italy), and washed and dried prior to the treatment. Locks weighing one gram were prepared.
  • a commercially available base bleaching powder (1), peroxide cream 40 vol. (12%) and conditioner (1) were supplied by HSA Cosmetics (Bisuschio, Italy).
  • the base bleaching powder (1) contains sodium carbonate as a buffer agent and has a 45% concentration of persulphate, expressed as persulphate ions; said powder does not contain divalent species (i.e. divalent ions or diamines).
  • base bleaching powder containing a divalent species was also prepared, specifically, base powder (2), wherein 4,7,10-trioxa-1.13 tridecanodiamine was added to the base bleaching powder (1) (0.285g/10g of bleaching powder ).
  • base bleaching powder containing a divalent species was also prepared, specifically, base powder (3), equivalent to base powder (1 ) except for the fact that it comprises magnesium carbonate rather than sodium carbonate, in the same molar concentration.
  • the commercial comparative composition (1) OLAPLEX BOND MULTIPLIER N0.1 , and the commercial conditioner (2) BOND PERFECTOR N0.2 were purchased from Olaplex, LLC (USA).
  • both the comparative composition (1) and the commercial conditioner (2) comprise bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (i.e. the dimaleate salt of 4,7,10-trioxa-1.13 tridecanodiamine).
  • the comparative composition is an aqueous solution of 15 to 30% bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate. Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate is described in
  • a commercial conditioner (1 , HSA Cosmetics) comprising sodium laneth-40 maleate/styrene sulphonate copolymer, cetearyl alcohol, propylene glycol, bis-stearoyl ethyldimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, soy isoflavones, glycosphingolipids, acetyl cysteine, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, melon seed oil, polyglyceryl-6 esters, hazel seed oil, sorbitan oleate, dicetyl phosphate, quaternuim-80, phenoxyethanol, dimeticonol, ceteareth-20, citric acid, ethylhexylglycerine, cyclopentasiloxane and benzyl salicylate, and not comprising any divalent species was applied to the lock for 10 min., followed by rinsing and drying with a commercial conditioner (1 , HSA Cosmetics
  • E - one lock was treated with four bleaching treatment cycles; every cycle consisted in treating the lock with 10 g of bleaching powder (1 ) added to 20 g of peroxide cream and 2.5 ml of the comparative composition (1) , i.e. the commercial composition OLAPLEX BOND MULTIPLIER NO.1.
  • the bleaching mixture was left on the lock for 45 min.; the lock was placed on a plate at 36°C, then rinsed and towel dried.
  • 15 ml of commercial conditioner (2) was applied on the lock; after 10 min. The lock was rinsed and dried with a hair dryer.
  • F - one lock was treated with four bleaching treatment cycles; every cycle consisted in treating the lock with 10 g of bleaching powder (3) containing magnesium carbonate added to 20 g peroxide cream and 2 ml of a composition representative of the invention (INV), prepared as described in example 1 a. After every treatment cycle the lock was treated as described for GROUP C.
  • the mechanical properties of the wet hair were determined according to standard UNI EN ISO 5079:1998 (Determination of Breaking Force and Elongation at Break of Individual Fibres) with an Instron dynamometer mod. 4501 , in an environment with an atmosphere controlled in terms of temperature (20°C ⁇ 2°C) and relative humidity (65% ⁇ 4%).
  • the locks of hair to be analysed were immersed in distilled water at least overnight. Immediately before the measurement was performed, a test specimen of about 30-40 mm was taken from every hair, in an area far from the apical part (end). The test specimen was positioned between the grips of the dynamometer. Measurements were performed on a usable length of 10 mm, at a beam speed of 10 mm/min., with a preload of 2 cN. The breaking force and elongation at break values were obtained by processing the load/elongation curves. The results are the average of about 30 samples. The load values and deformation values of the hair are shown respectively in figures 13 and 14.
  • the load and deformation values of the sample (C) are decidedly greater than those of group E, where the hair was treated with four bleaching treatment cycles, in which every treatment cycle comprised the comparative composition (1).
  • the comparative composition (1) includes a salt of maleic acid (bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate) but not a non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer.
  • composition of the invention comprising an activated vinylic monomer of formula (I) and a non-ionic nitrogen-containing (co)polymer is capable of protecting hair and making it more resistant compared to the comparative composition (1) comprising only the dimaleate salt.
  • the hair of the group D treated with the bleaching powder (2) comprising the same diamine of the reference composition (1) and in which every treatment cycle comprised the composition representative of the invention (INV), is characterized by load value (cN) and deformation value (mm/mm) that are substantially equal to the respective values obtained in the hair in group C.
  • composition of the invention reacts in any case according to the hypothesized polymerization mechanism and is not influenced by the presence of the divalent diamine; in particular, the presence of the diamine does not enhance the ability of hair treated with the composition of the invention to resist loads and deformation.
  • Example 10 Protective effect of compositions of the invention compared to compositions used for comparative purposes.
  • Figure 15 shows, from left to right:
  • lock B bleached using a conventional treatment without the addition of additives or protectants shows matting and a frizzy effect; moreover, the lock exhibits both longitudinal and transverse breaks, roughness, dullness and loss of elasticity and shape.
  • Lock C whose bleaching treatment comprised the use of the composition of the invention, shows no matting or frizzy effect; moreover, said lock shows a good effectiveness of the bleaching.
  • Lock E whose bleaching treatment comprised the use of the comparative composition (1), appears rather damaged and does not show an improvement over lock B, bleached with a conventional treatment, comparable to the one observed for lock (C) treated with the composition of the invention, in terms of matting and frizzy effect.
  • Figure 16 shows, from left to right:
  • lock C whose bleaching treatment comprised the use of the composition of the invention, shows better bleaching effectiveness compared to lock E, whose bleaching treatment comprised the use of the comparative composition (2).
  • Lock E in fact exhibits a darker colour than lock C, indicative of less effective bleaching.
  • Example 10 Stability of a composition comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one colouring agent
  • Example 11 Effectiveness of a composition comprising (III), wherein (III) is at least one colouring agent
  • Dyeing treatment a dyeing treatment was performed on 2 subjects using the composition of the invention prepared as per example 1 b and a corresponding comparative composition from which components (I) and (II) were absent. On the right side, 30 g of the composition prepared as per example 1 b + 30 g of 6% hydrogen peroxide cream were applied; on the left side 30 g of the corresponding comparative composition as defined above + 30 g of 6% hydrogen peroxide cream were used. At the end of the treatment, about 20 ml of the conditioner described above was applied and left on for 5 minutes.
  • a professional technician assessed the hair both immediately after the dyeing treatment and two weeks after the dyeing treatment, rating the shine, elasticity, texture and softness of hair and assigning a score between 1 (poor) and 10 (excellent).
  • the average rating is shown in Table 11 , where A identifies the dyeing treatment with the comparative composition and B identifies the treatment with the composition of the invention as prepared in example 1 b.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour cheveux comprenant : (I) au moins un monomère de formule (I) (R1) (R2)C=C(R3) (R4) (I) (II) au moins un (co)polymère contenant de l'azote non-ionique, (III) éventuellement, au moins un constituant choisi parmi : des agents colorants, des agents décolorants, des agents défrisants et des agents d'ondulation permanente ; et (IV) au moins un excipient cosmétiquement acceptable. Ladite composition offre une action protectrice, nourrissante et restructurante destinée au traitement des cheveux ; en outre, l'invention concerne la préparation et l'utilisation de ladite composition.
EP16751003.1A 2015-06-26 2016-06-24 Composition capillaire de restructuration et de protection Withdrawn EP3313363A1 (fr)

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CH00923/15A CH711252A2 (it) 2015-06-26 2015-06-26 Composizione cosmetica per i capelli.
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ITUB20159708 2015-12-22
CH18902015 2015-12-22
ITUB20161391 2016-03-04
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FR3082742B1 (fr) * 2018-06-20 2020-05-29 L'oreal Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d’oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane, et un alkylpolyglycoside.
US11090249B2 (en) 2018-10-31 2021-08-17 L'oreal Hair treatment compositions, methods, and kits for treating hair
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CN105726347A (zh) * 2008-10-29 2016-07-06 欧莱雅 使用弱二元羧酸用热松弛或矫直毛发的方法
PT3142637T (pt) * 2014-05-16 2020-10-15 Olaplex Inc Formulações e métodos de tratamento de queratina

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