EP3288524A1 - Préparation pour soins de la peau - Google Patents

Préparation pour soins de la peau

Info

Publication number
EP3288524A1
EP3288524A1 EP16715301.4A EP16715301A EP3288524A1 EP 3288524 A1 EP3288524 A1 EP 3288524A1 EP 16715301 A EP16715301 A EP 16715301A EP 3288524 A1 EP3288524 A1 EP 3288524A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
preparation
preparation according
oil
range
oil phase
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16715301.4A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stefanie Hentrey
Kerstin Heike
Jane Djamil
Kathrin BORCHERS
Christiane Meyer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP3288524A1 publication Critical patent/EP3288524A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising an oil and a water phase.
  • oil phase sodium polyacrylate is dispersed and the
  • Water phase comprises one or at most two gelling agents.
  • a characteristic of cosmetic products which is very important for consumers but difficult to quantify, is their texture and sensor technology.
  • texture is understood to mean those properties of a cosmetic which can be traced back to the structure of the preparation, can be sensed by tactile and tactile sensations and, if appropriate, expressed in mechanical or rheological flow properties.
  • the texture can be tested in particular by means of sensors.
  • the texture of cosmetic products which optionally can be influenced with the aid of additives, is of almost the same significance for the consumer as their objectively ascertainable effects.
  • the term "sensorics” refers to the scientific discipline that deals with the evaluation of cosmetic preparations based on sensory impressions.
  • the sensory evaluation of a cosmetic is based on the visual, olfactory and haptic impressions.
  • Olfactory impressions which can often be differentiated into initial odor (head note), main odor (middle note, body) and after-odor (ending).
  • head note main odor
  • body main odor
  • after-odor ending
  • the sensory analysis makes use of the possibility, the sensory
  • An object of the present invention is therefore to provide preparations which, in addition to the customary for cosmetics criteria such as compatibility, storage stability and the like also provide the consumer so far unknown cosmetic, especially sensory, benefits.
  • the preparations sought should be suitable for use in the personal care sector and should be sensory-attractive, in particular, for use in the face or neck.
  • Emulsifiers So that both hydrating and oil-containing, caring components can be used, emulsifiers are often used. Without emulsifiers water and oil could not mix permanently. However, emulsifiers are known to "wash out" lipids from the skin, further enhancing their ability to deliver lipids
  • bi-gels are formed by a mixture of certain oleogels comprising a variety of oils and cellulosic polymers with certain carbomer-based aqueous gels.
  • the weight ratios between oil and water phase are in the range between 5/95 to 40/60.
  • these bi-gels according to their appearance and the relatively firm consistency, are an O / W cream without the use of any surfactants or emulsifiers.
  • EP 1 083 880 B1 discloses the use of cellulosic polymers, e.g. Ethylcellulose, described in stable gel mixtures consisting of an oleogel and an aqueous gel.
  • Polysaccharides are carbohydrates in which a large number (at least ten)
  • Monosaccharides are linked via a glycosidic bond. These are biopolymers from an unknown number of monosaccharide units or with statistical molecular size distribution. Examples of polysaccharides are glycogen, starch (amylose and amylopectin), pectins, chitin, callose and cellulose. Tapioca or tapioca starch is an almost tasteless starch, which is made from the processed and dried cassava root (cassava).
  • hydrodispersions which include thickeners such as sodium polyacrylate.
  • thickeners such as sodium polyacrylate.
  • a disclosure of dispersing sodium polyacrylate in the oil phase is lacking as is the addition of another gelling agent to the water phase.
  • the object is to provide a corresponding care preparation for the application on the face.
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising an oil phase and a water phase, wherein sodium polyacrylate is dispersed in the oil phase, the water phase comprises one or at most two gel formers and no emulsifiers, surfactants, celluloses and advantageously no acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosspolymers in the Preparation are included.
  • the preparations according to the invention are therefore not emulsions.
  • In contrast to the known bi-gel formulation is omitted according to the invention on the addition of celluloses.
  • the proportion by weight of sodium polyacrylate according to the invention preferably in the range of 0.5 wt.% To 2 wt.%, In particular 0.8 to 1, 2 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation selected.
  • the proportion of gelling agents in particular xanthan gum, is in total in the range from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, selected.
  • a preferred gelling agent is xanthan gum, a microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions and having a molecular weight of 2 to 15 million daltons.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain of ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate, the number of pyruvate units determining the viscosity of the xanthan gum.
  • Xanthan gum is available, for example, under the trade name Xanthan gum food grade, type FF from Jungbunzlauer, or from Rahn under the trade name Keltrol CG-F.
  • the gelling agent xanthan gum
  • stirring the sodium polyacrylate into the water phase does not guarantee the stability of the preparation structure.
  • the sodium polyacrylate is predispersed in an oil and then added to the batch. This ensures that the gelling agent does not clump when in contact with water, but is finely distributed and meanwhile forms the structure according to the invention.
  • Sodium polyacrylate is therefore preferably predispersed in the oil phase.
  • the one or two gelling agents in particular xanthan gum, are dispersed in the water phase and then the oil phase is added to the water phase. Due to the dispersion of the sodium polyacrylate, the oil phase has not formed into a gel but the oil phase is still liquid. The oil phase is thus more spreadable and can be better distributed on the skin. In contrast to many prior art formulations, no sticky or waxy residue on the skin that is adversely affected by the user is produced.
  • the oil phase is structured, similar to the lamellar structure
  • DE 102004017221 A1 and DE 102004017223 A1 In contrast to the preparations of DE 102004017221 A1 and DE 102004017223 A1, in which three different production processes are described, according to the invention only the dispersion of sodium polyacrylate in the oil phase is selected. In addition, DE 102004017221 A1 describes emulsions, but preparations according to the invention without emulsifiers. Furthermore, no further gelling agents are present in the preparations of DE 102004017221 A1 and DE 102004017223 A1 in addition to acrylate gel formers.
  • oil phase of the invention in addition to the sodium polyacrylate, also a fatty alcohol, e.g. Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol, so when cooling the preparation of the fatty alcohol again "solid” and thickens the oil phase, however, only slightly.
  • a fatty alcohol e.g. Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol
  • the proportion of starch compounds, in particular tapioca starch, in total is advantageously in the range of 0, 1 wt.% To 8 wt.%, In particular in the range of 1 to 3 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation selected.
  • Both formulas according to Example 1 contained i.a. Tapioca.
  • CLG 04 about 0.85 to 1% by weight of tapioca
  • CLG 05 about 2.5 to 3% by weight of tapioca.
  • the evaluation of the subject assessment for skin care and sensory aspects shown in the figure, shows that both formulations according to the invention achieved good values despite addition of starch. It is amazing that the formula performs better with a higher amount of tapioca (CLG 05), especially in the parameters that are very relevant for face care.
  • no celluloses and advantageously no further polysaccharides, in particular no further thickeners, are contained in the preparation according to the invention in the preparation.
  • the preparation in particular also does not comprise acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosspolymers.
  • No further substances means that the proportion of these substances below 0, 1 wt.%, In particular less than 0.01 wt.%, Preferably 0 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation is, if immaterial by impurities or manufacturing processes Shares of these substances should be added but once.
  • thickeners or thickening substances are those substances to be considered, which increases the viscosity of the preparation or phase compared to preparations without this substance.
  • surfactants and emulsifiers is dispensed with in order to solve the stated tasks of providing a sensory-acceptable preparation which simultaneously leaves a nourishing residue on the skin.
  • the proportion of surfactants or emulsifiers in the preparation is therefore at most 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, advantageously 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in accordance with the invention as "free of "to apply. This means, as already stated, to include any impurities of these substances with.
  • Fatty alcohols in particular cetylstearyl alcohol, according to the invention are not considered as emulsifiers. As stated, therefore, no emulsifiers, with the exception of fatty alcohols, being included in the preparation.
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol is known as an emollient in cosmetics.
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol also referred to as stearolum, CTFA or cetearyl alcohol
  • CTFA cetearyl alcohol
  • cetyl alcohol cetyl alcohol
  • cetyl alcohol cetyl alcohol
  • stearyl alcohol octadecanol
  • cetylstearyl alcohol is used in a variety of pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations, increases the stability of emulsions and improves the texture of
  • the fatty alcohols and in particular cetylstearyl alcohol serve to improve the stability of the preparation.
  • cetearyl alcohol is a co-emulsifier, these are not to be understood as emulsifiers which are excluded according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention do not comprise emulsifiers.
  • the proportion of fatty alcohols is advantageously selected in the range of up to 5% by weight, in particular up to 2.5% by weight.
  • the proportion of these substances to be avoided is therefore, as stated several times, below 0.1% by weight, in particular below 0.01% by weight or at exactly 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • a further advantage according to the invention results when the weight ratio of the oil phase to the water phase is in the range from 2% by weight to 98% by weight to 25% by weight to 75% % By weight, in particular in the range from 18% by weight to 82% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • this mixing ratio makes it possible to adjust the viscosity of the preparation in order to ensure topical application and friability and, on the other hand, to achieve a sensory, pleasant skin sensation.
  • the application of the preparation according to the invention takes place on the skin, in particular moist or wet skin, in particular on the face or neck.
  • a moist or wet skin is present during or after showering or bathing, so that the application of the preparation according to the invention takes place during or after showering or bathing.
  • the oil components are stably incorporated into the emulsion structure via emulsifiers. As a result, the oil components do not "adhere" or at least badly adhere to the skin surface and are washed away again during the subsequent rinsing off.
  • slow-spreading oils or waxes are therefore used, so that sufficient residue can remain on the skin at all.
  • these slow-spreading oils or waxes usually cause a dull or sticky skin sensation and are therefore perceived as sensory unpleasant.
  • Advantageous polar oil components can be selected for the purposes of the present invention from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 up to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate,
  • Isononyl isononanoate 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.
  • oils are selected from the group Caprylic / Capric triglycerides, tri-isostearin, octyl stearates, dicaprylyl carbonates and / or shea butter.
  • Exceptionally preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from
  • Fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters are particularly preferred in this case is isopropyl palmitate.
  • one or more vegetable oils be selected as the lipid component of the oil phase.
  • Preferred vegetable oils are to be selected from almond oil, grapeseed oil, and / or sunflower oil.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • substances for preventing foaming, dyes and color pigments, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanner , Buffers, pH Regulators, Herbal Extracts, Sebum Absorbing Substances, UV Filters, Active Ingredients such as Anti Age, Anti-Cellulite, Anti Acne, Anti-Rosacea, Anti-Neurodermatitis, Antioxidants, Moisturizers, Chelating Agents, Antiperspirants, Bleaches and Dyes etc.
  • the additive does not hinder or preclude the required properties in terms of stability, structure formation and sensory properties.
  • Preservatives or auxiliaries may also be present in the preparation, advantageously to a proportion of 0.02 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.02 to 1% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. If necessary, the preparation can also
  • Preferred preservatives or preservative auxiliaries are to be selected from the group Piroctone Olamine, phenoxyethanol, benzethonium chlorides, diazolidinyl urea, sodium benzoates, methylparaben, DMDM hydantoin + iodopropynyl butylcarbamates, propylparaben, hexamidines diisethionates, ethylparaben, DMDM hydantoin, butylenes glycol + iodopropynyl butylcarbamates and caprylyl Glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, methylpropanediol; Benzyl alcohol, hydroxyacetophenones, diols (1,2-alkanediols), 1,2-hexanediol, pentylenes glycol, 1,2-octanediol, decylene glycol.
  • Phenoxyethanol is advantageous in a proportion of 0.6 to 1 wt.% And / or Methylparaben advantageous to a proportion of 0.3 to 0.4 wt.%, In each case based on the total mass of the preparation contained in the preparation.
  • Preferred active ingredients may include: tocopherol / tocopheryl acetates,
  • Panthenol Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract,
  • Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Aloe Barbadensis, Kaolin, Cucumis Sativus, Ubiquinone, Creatine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, 4-Butylresorcinol, Calcium Pantothenate, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Glycine Soy Germ Extract, Arctium Lappa Fruit Extract, Glycosylrutin, Isoquercitrin, Eucerit and / or Glyceryl Glucoside.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can be prepared as described below.
  • aqueous phase Separately from the aqueous phase oils of the invention, fatty alcohols, preservatives, stabilizers are heated to 80 ° C and the
  • Phenoxyethanol q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
  • Trisodium EDTA q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
  • Cetearyl Alcohol 1 80 2,00 2,20 2,00 2,20
  • Phenoxyethanol q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
  • Trisodium EDTA q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, composées d'une phase huileuse et d'une phase aqueuse, du polyacrylate de sodium étant présent à l'état dispersé dans la phase huileuse, la phase aqueuse comprenant un ou deux gélifiants maximum, et aucun émulsifiant, aucun tensioactif ni aucune cellulose n'étant contenus dans la préparation. Lesdites préparations s'appliquent sur peau humide ou mouillée, en particulier sur le visage, et procurent une sensation agréable.
EP16715301.4A 2015-04-27 2016-04-08 Préparation pour soins de la peau Withdrawn EP3288524A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102015207624.5A DE102015207624A1 (de) 2015-04-27 2015-04-27 Hautpflegezubereitung
PCT/EP2016/057737 WO2016173824A1 (fr) 2015-04-27 2016-04-08 Préparation pour soins de la peau

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3288524A1 true EP3288524A1 (fr) 2018-03-07

Family

ID=55699646

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16715301.4A Withdrawn EP3288524A1 (fr) 2015-04-27 2016-04-08 Préparation pour soins de la peau

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3288524A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102015207624A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016173824A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102018212458A1 (de) 2018-07-26 2020-01-30 Beiersdorf Ag Mineralöl- und Emulgatorfreie Zubereitung
DE102018215007A1 (de) * 2018-09-04 2020-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Hydrodispersion mit Panthenol

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE69919863T8 (de) 1998-06-03 2005-12-15 Ardana Bioscience Ltd. Stabilgelmischung in form einer mischung eines öligen gels und eines wässrigen gels
DE102004010246A1 (de) * 2004-03-02 2005-09-22 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend C24-Fettsäuren
DE102004017223A1 (de) * 2004-04-05 2005-10-20 Cognis Ip Man Gmbh O/W-Gel-Zusammensetzungen mit Wachsen
DE102004017221A1 (de) * 2004-04-05 2005-10-20 Cognis Ip Man Gmbh O/W-Gel-Zusammensetzungen mit Estern des Pentaerythrits oder dessen Oligomeren
GB0421286D0 (en) * 2004-09-24 2004-10-27 Primrose Hill Ltd Polymer mixed with oils
DE102012221227A1 (de) * 2012-11-20 2014-05-22 Beiersdorf Ag Sensorisch attraktive Hydrodispersion mit Wachsen

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2016173824A1 (fr) 2016-11-03
DE102015207624A1 (de) 2016-10-27

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