Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition
• a hair conditioning composition comprising by weight: from about 1.0% to about 10% of a cationic surfactant being a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salt; from about 2.5% to about 30% of a high melting point fatty compound; an aqueous carrier; and from about 0.15% to about 20% of a benefit material such as salicylic acid and 2-hexyl-l-decanol.
• a benefit material such as salicylic acid and 2-hexyl-l-decanol.
• conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.
• the present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition
• a hair conditioning composition comprising by weight:
• a cationic surfactant being a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salt
• Class I benefit material is an acidic material
• Class I benefit material has a % Protein binding higher than 20 and Molecular Volume lower than 500 and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) lower than 3 and hydrogen binding higher than 10 and pKa lower than 5.0;
• Class II benefit material being at least one selected from the following (A)-(G):
• R is hydrogen or metal ion
• R 6 is methyl, ethyl, propyl, alkenyl or phenyl having less than 12 carbon atoms and wherein R7, Rs, R9, Rio, R11 , R12 are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy groups;
• R13 is an alkyl, alkenyl, straight or branched carbon chains and; and wherein R14 is hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, methyl, ethyl and propyl wherein the structure of such alcohol contains less than 20 total carbon atoms;
• C An alcohol comprising an unsaturated double bond in the C2 position, such as phytol.
• (E) A monoalkyl or dialkyl substituted glycerin or mono- or di-esters of glycerin with fatty acids wherein the structure of such monoalkyl- or dialkyl-substituted glycerin or glycerin esters contains less than 20 total carbon atoms;
• R 15 could be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, phenyl group and wherein the structure of the R 13 group contains less than 20 carbon atoms;
• Class II benefit material is weakly to non-acidic
• Class II benefit material has % Protein binding higher than 10, and Molecular Volume lower than 1500, and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) higher than 0.5, hydrogen-binding higher than 4, and pKa of 5 or higher .
• composition of the present invention provides improved softness to hair.
• compositions of the present invention are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
• mixtures is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.
• molecular weight or "M.Wt.” as used herein refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated.
• the weight average molecular weight may be measured by gel permeation chromatography.
• QS means sufficient quantity for 100%.
• the hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprises: a cationic surfactant being a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a high melting point fatty compound; an aqueous carrier; and a benefit material. It is believed that the use of such specific cationic surfactant combination, together with the benefit agent, provide improved softness to the hair compared to each cationic surfactant used alone or other cationic surfactant combinations.
• the composition of the present invention comprises a benefit material.
• the benefit materials can be included in the hair conditioning composition at a level of from about 0.15% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.2% to aboutl5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 12%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 9.5%, even more preferably from about 2% to about 9.5%, in view of providing softness while not providing greasiness. It is believed that too high level of the benefit materials especially Class II benefit materials tend to provide greasiness to hair.
• the benefit material is selected from one or more from Class I benefit materials, Class II benefit materials, or any combinations thereof. Class I and Class II benefit materials are explained below in detail.
• preferred materials include salicylic acid, 2,3-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, gallic acid, ethyl gallate, 5-chlorosalicylic acid, trans-ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, ricinoleic acid, isovaleric acid, isobutyric acid, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, oleic acid, isostearyl isostearate, phytol and sorbitan caprylate.
• More preferred materials are selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, 2- hexyl-l-decanol, oleic acid, isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof, and still more preferred material is the mixture of salicylic acid, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, oleic acid, and isostearyl isostearate. These materials can be used in combination to increase the size of the benefit.
• the benefit material comprises salicylic acid and 2-hexyl-l- decanol.
• salicylic acid is used at a level of preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least about 1%, more preferably at least about 1.5% by weight of the composition
• 2-hexyl-l-decanol of is used at a level of preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least about 2%, more preferably at least about 3% by weight of the composition.
• Class I benefit material has the structure selected from:
• Y is hydrogen or a metal ion
• Class I benefit material is an acidic material
• Class I benefit material has a % Protein binding higher than 20 and Molecular Volume lower than 500 and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) lower than 3 and hydrogen binding higher than 10 and pKa lower than 5.0.
• Hydrogen binding or H-bond is the energy from hydrogen bonds between molecules from Hansen Solubility Parameters and pKa value is a logarithmic measure of the acid dissociation constant.
• Class II benefit material is at least one selected from the following (A)-(G): (A) Having the following structur
• R is hydrogen or metal ion
• R 6 is methyl, ethyl, propyl, alkenyl or phenyl having less than 12 carbon atoms and wherein R 7> Rs, R9, Rio, Rn > R12 are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy groups;
• R13 is an alkyl, alkenyl, straight or branched carbon chains and; and wherein R14 is hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, methyl, ethyl and propyl wherein the structure of such alcohol contains less than 20 total carbon atoms;
• Ru could be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, phenyl group and wherein the structure of the R13 group contains less than 20 carbon atoms;
• Class II benefit material is weakly to non-acidic
• Class II benefit material has % Protein binding higher than 10, and Molecular Volume lower than 1500, and Partition coefficient octanol to water (log P) higher than 0.5, hydrogen-binding higher than 4, and pKa of 5 or higher .
• Hydrogen binding or H-bond is the energy from hydrogen bonds between molecules from Hansen Solubility Parameters and pKa value is a logarithmic measure of the acid dissociation constant.
• the pH of a composition of the present invention is in the range of from about 1 to about 5, preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably from about 3 to about 5.
• compositions of the present invention comprise a cationic surfactant.
• the cationic surfactant can be included in the composition at a level of from about 1.0%, preferably from about 1.5%, more preferably from about 2.0%, still more preferably from about 3.0%, and to about 25%, preferably to about 10%, more preferably to about 8.0%, still more preferably to about 6.0% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
• the surfactant is water-insoluble.
• water-insoluble surfactants means that the surfactants have a solubility in water at 25°C of preferably below 0.5g/100g (excluding 0.5g/100g) water, more preferably 0.3g/100g water or less.
• Cationic surfactant useful herein is a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salt.
• a mono- long alkyl amine and a mono-long alkyl quatemized ammonium salt at a weight ratio of from about 1:4 to about 4:1, more preferably from about 1:2.5 to about 2.5:1, still more preferably from about 1:2 to about 2:1, even more preferably from about 1: 1 to about 1:1.5, most preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:1.3, in view of providing hair softness.
• Mono-long alkyl amine useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain of preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 alkyl group.
• Mono-long alkyl amines useful herein also include mono-long alkyl amidoamines.
• Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful.
• tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
• exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine
• amines are used in combination with acids such as ⁇ -glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, i- glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably ⁇ -glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 :
• the mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably CI 8-22 alkyl group.
• the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
• Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula
• R , R , R and R is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X " is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
• alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
• the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
• one of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from C3 ⁇ 4, C2H5, C2H4OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of CI, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C2H5OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
• Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyl trimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
• composition of the present invention may contain other cationic surfactants such as di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.
• di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are contained , at the weight ratio to the combination of the mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and the mono-long alkyl amine salt of, preferably from 1:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 1:1.2 to 1:5, still more preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:4, in view of stability in rheology and conditioning benefits.
• Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having two long alkyl chains of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
• Such di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (I): 72 I ® 73 ⁇
• R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are selected from an aliphatic group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X " is a salt- forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as chloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and
• the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
• the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
• two of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from CH 3 , C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C 6 H5, and mixtures thereof.
• Such preferred di-long alkyl cationic surfactants include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
• composition of the present invention comprises a high melting point fatty compound.
• the high melting point fatty compound can be included in the composition at a level of from about 2.5%, preferably from about 3.0%, more preferably from about 4.0%, still more preferably from about 5.0%, and to about 30%, preferably to about 10%, more preferably to about 8.0% by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.
• the high melting point fatty compound useful herein have a melting point of 25 °C or higher, preferably 40°C or higher, more preferably 45 °C or higher, still more preferably 50°C or higher, in view of stability of the emulsion especially the gel matrix.
• such melting point is up to about 90°C, more preferably up to about 80°C, still more preferably up to about 70°C, even more preferably up to about 65°C, in view of easier manufacturing and easier emulsification.
• the high melting point fatty compound can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used as such blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.
• the high melting point fatty compound useful herein is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than the above preferred in the present invention. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
• fatty alcohols are preferably used in the composition of the present invention.
• the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.
• Preferred fatty alcohols include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71°C), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting point. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group.
• more preferred fatty alcohol is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
• the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is preferably from about 1:9 to 9:1, more preferably from about 1:4 to about 4:1, still more preferably from about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1.
• the mixture has the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol of preferably from about 1: 1 to about 4:1, more preferably from about 1:1 to about 2: 1, still more preferably from about 1.2:1 to about 2:1, in view of avoiding to get too thick for spreadability. It may also provide more conditioning on damaged part of the hair.
• composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous carrier.
• level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
• the carrier useful in the present invention includes water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols.
• the lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
• the aqueous carrier is substantially water.
• Deionized water is preferably used.
• Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
• the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% to about 99%, preferably from about 50% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 70% to about 90%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 90% water.
• a gel matrix is formed by the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier.
• the gel matrix is suitable for providing various conditioning benefits, such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair and softness and moisturized feel on dry hair.
• the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is in the range of, preferably from about 1 : 1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 1: 1.5 to about 1:7, still more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:6, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits.
• the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants, in view of stability of the gel matrix.
• the composition being substantially free of anionic surfactants means that: the composition is free of anionic surfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the level of such anionic surfactants is very low.
• compositions of the present invention may further contain a silicone compound. It is believed that the silicone compound can provide smoothness and softness on dry hair.
• the silicone compounds herein can be used at levels by weight of the composition of preferably from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 8%.
• the silicone compounds have an average particle size of from about 1 microns to about 50 microns, in the composition.
• the silicone compounds useful herein, as a single compound, as a blend or mixture of at least two silicone compounds, or as a blend or mixture of at least one silicone compound and at least one solvent, have a viscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000mPa-s at 25°C.
• Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, amino substituted silicones, quaternized silicones, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties can also be used.
• Preferred polyalkyl siloxanes include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane.
• Polydimethylsiloxane which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
• the above polyalkylsiloxanes are available, for example, as a mixture with silicone compounds having a lower viscosity.
• Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about l,000mPa- s to about 100,000mPa- s, more preferably from about 5,000mPa-s to about 50,000mPa-s.
• Such mixtures preferably comprise: (i) a first silicone having a viscosity of from about 100,000mPa-s to about 30,000,000mPa- s at 25°C, preferably from about 100,000mPa-s to about 20,000,000mPa-s; and (ii) a second silicone having a viscosity of from about 5mPa-s to about 10,000mPa- s at 25°C, preferably from about 5mPa-s to about 5,000mPa-s.
• Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, a blend of dimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000mPa- s and dimethicone having a viscosity of 200mPa-s available from GE Toshiba, and a blend of dimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000mPa-s and cyclopentasiloxane available from GE Toshiba.
• the silicone compounds useful herein also include a silicone gum.
• silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25 °C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials.
• the "silicone gums” will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000.
• silicone gums are available, for example, as a mixture with silicone compounds having a lower viscosity.
• Such mixtures useful herein include, for example, Gum/Cyclomethicone blend available from Shin-Etsu.
• Silicone compounds useful herein also include amino substituted materials.
• Preferred aminosilicones include, for example, those which conform to the general formula (I):
• R 1 a G 3 -a-Si-(-OSiG 2 ) n -(-OSiG b (R 1 ) 2 _ b ) m -0-SiG 3 -a( i)a
• G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or Ci-C 8 alkyl, preferably methyl
• a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 1
• b is 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1
• n is a number from 0 to 1,999
• m is an integer from 0 to 1,999; the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000; a and m are not both 0
• Ri is a monovalent radical conforming to the general formula CqH 2q L, wherein q is an integer having a value from 2 to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: -N(R 2 )CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R 2 ) 2 ; -N(R 2
• Such highly preferred amino silicones can be called as terminal aminosilicones, as one or both ends of the silicone chain are terminated by nitrogen containing group.
• the above aminosilicones when incorporated into the composition, can be mixed with solvent having a lower viscosity.
• solvents include, for example, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils.
• oils include, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters.
• solvents preferred are those selected from the group consisting of non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclic silicones, non-volatile linear silicones, and mixtures thereof.
• the non- volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 to about 10,000 centistokes at 25°C.
• highly preferred are non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, especially non-polar, volatile isoparaffins, in view of reducing the viscosity of the aminosilicones and providing improved hair conditioning benefits such as reduced friction on dry hair.
• Such mixtures have a viscosity of preferably from about l,000mPa-s to about 100,000mPa- s, more preferably from about 5,000mPa- s to about 50,000mPa-s.
• alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those having alkylamino substitutions as pendant groups of a silicone backbone. Highly preferred are those known as "amodimethicone". Commercially available amodimethicones useful herein include, for example, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.
• the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
• Silicone compounds useful herein include, for example, a Silicone Polymer Containing Quaternary Groups comprising terminal ester groups, having a viscosity up to 100,000 mPa-s and a D block length of greater than 200 D units. Without being bound by theory, this low viscosity silicone polymer provides improved conditioning benefits such as smooth feel, reduced friction, and prevention of hair damage, while eliminating the need for a silicone blend.
• the silicone polymer is a polyorganosiloxane compound comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups, at least one silicone block comprising greater than 200 siloxane units, at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit, and at least one terminal ester group.
• the silicone block may comprise between 300 to 500 siloxane units.
• the silicone polymer is present in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.15% to about 5%, and even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 4% by weight of the composition.
• the polyorganosiloxane compounds have the general formulas (la) and (lb):
• m is > 0, preferred 0.01 to 100, more preferred 0.1 to 100, even more preferred 1 to 100, specifically 1 to 50, more specifically 1 to 20, even more specifically 1 to 10,
• k is 0 or an average value of from >0 to 50, or preferably from 1 to 20, or even more preferably from 1 to 10,
• M represents a terminal group, comprising terminal ester groups selected from
• Z is selected from monovalent organic residues having up to 40 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms.
• a and A' each are independently from each other selected from a single bond or a divalent organic group having up to 10 carbon atoms and one or more hetero atoms, and
• E is a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formula:
• R 2 is selected from hydrogen or R
• R is selected from monovalent organic groups having up to 22 carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, and wherein the free valencies at the nitrogen atoms are bound to carbon atoms,
• Y is a group of the formula:
• K is a bivalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclic and/or branched C2-C40 hydrocarbon residue which is optionally interrupted by— O— ,— NH— , trivalent N,— NR 1 — ,— C(O)— ,— C(S)— , and optionally substituted with— OH, wherein R 1 is defined as above,
• T is selected from a divalent organic group having up to 20 carbon atoms and one or more hetero atoms.
• the residues K may be identical or different from each other.
• the residue K is bound to the silicon atom of the residue S via a C-Si-bond.
• amine groups (— (NR 2 — A— E— A'— NR 2 )— ) in the polyorganosiloxane compounds, they may have protonated ammonium groups, resulting from the protonation of such amine groups with organic or inorganic acids. Such compounds are sometimes referred to as acid addition salts of the polyorganosiloxane compounds.
• the molar ratio of the quaternary ammonium groups b) and the terminal ester groups c) is less than 100 : 20, even more preferred is less than 100 : 30 and is most preferred less than 100 : 50.
• the ratio can be determined by 13 C-NMR.
• the polyorganosiloxane composition may comprise:
• A) at least one polyorganosiloxane compound comprising a) at least one polyorganosiloxane group, b) at least one quaternary ammonium group, c) at least one terminal ester group, and d) at least one polyalkylene oxide group (as defined before),
• the polyorganosiloxane compound B) differs from the polyorganosiloxane compound A) preferably in that it does not comprise quaternary ammonium groups.
• Preferred polyorganosiloxane compounds B) result from the reaction of monofunctional organic acids, in particular carboxylic acids, and polyorganosiloxane containing bisepoxides.
• the weight ratio of compound A) to compound B) is preferably less than 90 : 10. Or in other words, the content of component B) is at least 10 weight percent.
• the molar ratio of the quaternary ammonium groups b) and the terminal ester groups c) is less than 100 : 10, even more preferred is less than 100 : 15 and is most preferred less than 100 : 20.
• the silicone polymer has a viscosity at 20°C and a shear rate of 0.1s "1 (plate-plate system, plate diameter 40mm, gap width 0.5mm) of less than 100,000 mPa»s (100 Pa»s).
• the viscosities of the neat silicone polymers may range from 500 to 100,000 mPa»s, or preferably from 500 to 70,000 mPa»s, or more preferably from 500 to 50,000 mPa»s, or even more preferably from 500 to 20,000 mPa»s.
• the viscosities of the neat polymers may range from 500 to 10,000 mPa»s, or preferably 500 to 5000 mPa»s determined at 20 °C and a shear rate of 0.1 s "1 .
• q 0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to 50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,
• r 0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to 50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,
• s 0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to 50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,
• q+r+s 1 to 600, or preferably from 1 to 100, or more preferably from 1 to 50, or even more preferably from 1 to 40.
• R 1 is C1-C1 8 alkyl, Ci-C is fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is preferably Ci-Ci 8 alkyl, Ci-C 6 fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is more preferably Ci-C 6 alkyl, Ci-C 6 fluoroalkyl, even more preferably C1-C4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. Most preferably, R 1 is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.
• C1-C22 alkyl means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups possess from 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can be straight chain or branched.
• Methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3- trimethyl hexyl moieties serve as examples.
• C1-C22 fluoroalkyl means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds with 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can be straight chain or branched and are substituted with at least one fluorine atom.
• Monofluormethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1- trifluorethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1 -trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl are suitable examples.
• aryl means unsubstituted or phenyl substituted once or several times with OH, F, CI, CF 3 , Ci-C 6 alkyl, Ci-Ce alkoxy, C 3 -C7 cycloalkyl, C2-C 6 alkenyl or phenyl.
• Aryl may also mean naphthyl.
• the positive charges resulting from the ammonium group(s), are neutralized with inorganic anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organic anions, like carboxylates deriving from C1-C 30 carboxylic acids, for example acetate, propionate, octanoate, especially from Cio-Ci 8 carboxylic acids, for example decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, alkylpolyethercarboxylate, alkylsulphonate, arylsulphonate, alkylarylsulphonate, alkylsulphate, alkylpolyethersulphate, phosphates derived from phosphoric acid mono alkyl/aryl ester and phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl ester.
• inorganic anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate
• the quaternary ammonium groups are usually generated by reacting the di-tertiary amines with an alkylating agents, selected from in particular di-epoxides (sometimes referred to also as bis-epoxides) in the presence of mono carboxylic acids and difunctional dihalogen alkyl compounds.
• an alkylating agents selected from in particular di-epoxides (sometimes referred to also as bis-epoxides) in the presence of mono carboxylic acids and difunctional dihalogen alkyl compounds.
• polyorganosiloxane compounds are of the general formulas (la) and (lb):
• polyorganosiloxane compounds may be also of the general formulas (Ila) or (lib):
• Z is a straight chain, cyclic or branched saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 2 o, or preferably C 2 to Ci 8 , or even more preferably a hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by one or more— O— , or— C(O)— and substituted with— OH.
• M is -OC(0)-Z resulting from normal carboxylic acids in particular with more than 10 carbon atoms like for example dodecanoic acid.
• the molar ratio of the polyorganosiloxane-containing repeating group— K— S— K— and the polyalkylene repeating group— A— E— A'— or— A'— E— A— is between 100:1 and 1:100, or preferably between 20:1 and 1:20, or more preferably between 10:1 and 1:10.
• R may represent a monovalent straight chain, cyclic or branched Ci-C 2 o hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by one or more— O— ,— C(O)— and can be substituted by— OH
• T may represent a divalent straight-chain, cyclic, or branched Ci-C 2 o hydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by — O— ,— C(O)— and can be substituted by hydroxyl.
• the above described polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions may also contain: 1) individual molecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions and no ester functions; 2) molecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions; and 3) molecules which contain ester functions and no quaternary ammonium functions. While not limited to structure, the above described polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternary ammonium functions and ester functions are to be understood as mixtures of molecules comprising a certain averaged amount and ratio of both moieties.
• Various monofunctional organic acids may be utilized to yield the esters.
• Exemplary embodiments include Ci-C 3 o carboxylic acids, for example C2, C3, Cg acids, Cio-Ci 8 carboxylic acids, for example Ci 2 , Ci 4 , Ci 6 acids, saturated, unsaturated and hydroxyl functionalized Ci 8 acids, alkylpolyethercarboxylic acids, alkylsulphonic acids, arylsulphonic acids, alkylarylsulphonic acids, alkylsulphuric acids, alkylpolyethersulphuric acids, phosphoric acid mono alkyl/aryl esters and phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl esters.
• composition of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
• additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
• compositions can be formulated into the present compositions.
• conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; perfumes; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as benzophenones; and antidandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione; non- ionic surfactant such as mono-9-octadecanoate poly(oxy-l,2-ethan
• compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
• the composition of the present invention is especially suitable for hair conditioners especially rinse-off hair conditioners.
• compositions (wt%)
• compositions of "Ex. 1" through “Ex. 5" and “CEx. i" as shown above can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art.
• compositions properties and conditioning benefits are evaluated by the following methods. Results of the evaluation are also shown above.
• the embodiments disclosed and represented by "Ex. 1" through “Ex. 5" are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for rinse-off use. Such embodiments have many advantages. For example, they provide improved softness.
• Conditioning benefits such as softness are evaluated by a panellist test. 8 panelists evaluated samples prepared by applying 0.1ml of the above compositions per lg hair. Panelists evaluated each sample from 0 to 100 scale for softness. The data from the panelists were gathered, averaged, and scored, and compared.
• the dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”

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