WO2014100970A1

WO2014100970A1 - Keratin fibers conditioning composition

Info

Publication number: WO2014100970A1
Application number: PCT/CN2012/087411
Authority: WO
Inventors: Zhongxia YANG; Jingya Dai
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-12-25
Filing date: 2012-12-25
Publication date: 2014-07-03
Also published as: CN104994832A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a keratin fibers conditioning composition, comprising: (a) at least one(C₁₀-C₃₀)alkylamido(C₁-C₈)alkyl(di)(C₁-C₆)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates; (b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group; (c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and (d) at least one aqueous carrier.

Description

KERATIN FIBERS CONDITIONING COMPOSITION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a keratin fibers conditioning composition comprising: (a) at least one (Cio-C3o)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine; (b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group; (c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and (d) at least one aqueous carrier.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Hair conditioners have been developed for many years. As an essential component, conditioning agent is always used in such hair conditioners to provide conditioning benefit. It is known that various conditioning agents may provide different desired benefits. Conventional conditioning agents contain for example, cationic surfactants, silicones, and oils. Among which, cationic surfactants are widely used as a conditioning agent. The ability of this kind of cationic surfactants to provide conditioning effect to hair is attributable to the hydrophobic nature of the alkyl chain as well as to the cationic charge of the polar head group. The most popular cationic surfactants known are quaternary ammonium compounds containing in the molecule at least one long alkyl chain.

US 2009/0324528 disclose a hair conditioning composition containing a cationic surfactant which corresponds to the salt of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamonium 1-glutamate and fatty substance. However, the latter composition does not always give a satisfactory conditioning property after application of the said composition on the hair, especially in term of the easy way to comb the hair. Besides, the conventional conditioners brings to the hair, in addition to good conditioning effect, a build up effect, which lead to the fact that the hair will become greasy quickly due to the build up or residue of the conditioning agents on the surface of the hair.

Moreover the conventional processes for preparing the conditioning composition containing fatty substances comprises a step of combining the hot fatty compound with the water phase under the temperature at 20-55 °C.

The fatty compound is very easily recrystallized during the process. Thus the conventional processes failed to provide a novel process for preparing a conditioning composition using a process which solves the problem of recrystalling of the fatty phase, and at the same time enables the water phase stable.

Other than the issues mentioned above, the increasing attention to the environment is another concern of the present invention. Eco-toxicological property of the conditioning agents becomes an important factor considered by manufacturers when developing new hair conditioners in order to meet more restrictive regulations or by customers when choosing hair conditioners.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a keratin fibers conditioning composition which possesses better conditioning effects, especially disentangling of both dry and wet hair and meanwhile, or has a low build up effect to the hair. Besides, it is also the aim of the present invention to provide a process for preparing a keratin fibers conditioning composition. The process as such will prevent the recrystalling issue brought by the fatty compound in the composition, and at the same time enables the water phase being stable. Eventually, the present invention also aims at providing an environment-friendly keratin fibers conditioning composition which, after applying to the keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, will be readily biodegradable.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The object of the present invention is achieved by a keratin fibers conditioning composition comprising: (a) at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates, preferably stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine; (b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group; (c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and (d) at least one aqueous carrier.

Another aspect of the present invention is a process for preparing the above keratin fibers conditioning composition, comprising the steps of:

(1) preparing an oil phase comprising at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher, and heating this oil phase to a temperature in the range of from above 30°C, particularly from 50 to 100 °C, preferably from 60 to 90 °C, more preferably from 70 to 85 °C;

(2) preparing an aqueous phase comprising:

- at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates, preferably stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine,

- at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group and preferably at least two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group, and

- at least one aqueous carrier, and

heating this aqueous phase to a temperature in the range of from 40 to 95°C, preferably from 60 to 90°C, more preferably from 70 to 85°C;

(3) mixing the oil phase and the aqueous phase together, preferably at a temperature in the range of from 40 to 95 °C, preferably from 60 to 90 °C, more preferably from 70 to 85 °C and homogenizing especially with an homogenizer for at least 30 seconds, especially 1 to 5 min; and

(4) cooling thus resulted mixture to a temperature in the range of from 20 °C to 25 °C with stirring.

Yet another aspect of the invention relates to a keratin fibers conditioning composition prepared according to the preceding process.

Still in another aspect, the present invention also relates to a use of the association of (a), (b), (c), and (d):

(a) at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates, preferably stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine;

(b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group;

(c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and (d) at least one aqueous carrier;

(a), (b), (c) and (d) being used together for conditioning the keratin fibers, especially the hair.

Thus, the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with excellent conditioning properties, especially disentangling of both wet and dry hair, and meanwhile having low build up effect so as to prevent the hair becoming greasy very quickly. Moreover the present invention makes it possible to obtain compositions as such by a novel and simple process that preventing the recrystalling issues brought by the fatty compounds, and at the same time keeping water phase stable. The present invention also provides a composition which is eco-friendly by using biodegradable materials.

In the description, the terms "at least a" or "at least one" are equivalent to "one or more".

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a keratin fibers conditioning composition, which comprises:

(a) at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates;

(c) at least one high melting point fatty compound having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and

(d) at least one aqueous carrier.

(a) (Cm-Cm)alkylamido(Ci-Cx)alkyl (di)(Ci-Cfi)alkylamine

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl (di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates. By (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl (di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine it must be understood that the alkyl group can be linear or branched, and by amido it must be understood the group -C(0)-N(R)- or -N(R)-C(0)- wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or a, linear or branched, (Ci-C₆)alkyl group.

Particularly the (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine of the invention has the formula (A):

R¹-C(0)-N(H)-R²-NR³R⁴ (A)

wherein:

• R¹ is a linear alkyl group having a C1₀-C2₀ carbon chain, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ carbon chain, even more preferably C₁₇ carbon chain;

• R² is a linear Ci-C₆, preferably C₁-C₄ alkylene group, more preferably -(CH₂)₃- group;

• R³ and R⁴, same or different, are linear alkyl groups having a C1-C4 carbon chain, and preferably R3 and R4 are methyl or ethyl groups, preferably -CH₃.

The cosmetic salts and the solvates such as hydrates of the tertiary substituted amidoamines are also used according to the present invention.

In view of improved conditioning effect, especially improved entangling of both wet and dry hair, under the context of the present invention, preferably the keratin fibers conditioning composition comprises stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine of the following formula (Al):

CH₃-(CH₂)₁₆-C(0) -N(H)-(CH₂)₃-N(CH₃)₂ (Al)

As component stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention, any grades of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine commercially available from any producers may be used. Mentions may be made especially of TEGO^® AMID S 18 from Evonik company and GENAMIN^® SPA from Clarient company.

The stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates is present in an amount in the range of from 0.1% to 8% by weight in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine is present in an amount in the range of from 0.5% to 5%) by weight, more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight in the composition of the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition.

(b) Dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group not bearing a cyclic group

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl group, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group. Particularly, the dicarboxylic acid has a structure of formula (B) and its cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates:

HO-C-(0)-alk-C(0)-OH (B) wherein alk represents a, linear or branched, (Ci-Cio)alkylene group substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably substituted by two hydroxyl groups, and preferably alk represents a (Ci-C₃)alkylene group such as ethylene group substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably substituted by two hydroxyl groups.

According to one preferred embodiment, the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises a dicarboxylic acid which is tataric acid of the formula (B l) and its cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates:

HO-C-(0)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-C(0)-OH (Bl).

Such a dicarboxylic acid is commercially available, Mentions may be made, for example, E 334 NATURAL L+ TARTARIC ACID from GIOVANNI RANDI or VILLAPANA, NATURAL TARTARIC ACID from INDUSTRIA CHIMICA VALENZANA, and ACIDO TARTARICO from NERI.

The at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl group as defined herein before is present in an amount in the range of from 0.01 % to 5 % by weight in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, The above mentioned at least one dicarboxylic acid as defined herein before is present in an amount in the range of from 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 % to 1 % by weight in the composition of the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers conditioning composition comprises a salt obtained by neutralization reaction between the ingreidnet a) and the ingredient b), preferably between stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and the dicarboxylic acid. The amine and the acid are included in the composition at a level such that the molecule ratio of the stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine to the dicarboxylic acid is preferably from 1 :5 to 10: 1 , more preferably from 1 :5 to 5: 1 , most preferably 1 :3 to 3: 1.

(c) High melting point fatty substance

As has already been mentioned, the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the invention comprises at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5 %, preferably 1 % and even more preferentially 0.1 %) and having a melting point of higher than 25 °C. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups, preferably at least 6 carbon atom. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (-C(O)-OH or -C(O)-O-). Particularly, the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.

More particularly, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from (C6-C36)alkane, preferably (Cs-C22)alkane, more preferably (Cs-Ci₆)alkane, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, nonsilicone waxes and silicones.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the (C6-C36)alkane, preferably (Cs-C22)alkane, more preferably (Cs-Ci₆)alkane, they are linear or branched, and possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₂6 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀, and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may also be mentioned include:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, Fl 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27 % diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 52 % monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45 % monoester and 55 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 39 % monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80%) di-triester-polyester;

- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE. The nonsilicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5>< 10^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25 °C, and preferably l x lO^"5 to 1 m²/s.

The silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be non-volatile.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil^® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;

- the Viscasil^® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia. In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax^® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)dialkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof. Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x 10-6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:

R₂Si0₂/₂, R₃Si0_1/2, RSi0_3/2 and Si0_4/2

in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a Ci-C₄ lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Besides the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from l x lO^"5 to 5x l0^"2 m²/s at 25 °C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

. the Silbione^® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

. the oils of the series Rhodorsil^® 70 633 and 763 from Rhodia;

. the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

. the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

. the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

. certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet^® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

- alkoxy groups such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) do not comprise any C2-C₃ oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are pasty or solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the fatty substance is a compound that is solid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or branched chain acids. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, coconut acid, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through steareth- 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth- 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1-C₃₀ alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available high melting point fatty compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan); cetearyl alcohol having tradename ECOROL 68/50 P/F from ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMICALS (Batam Island, Indonesia), LANETTE® O OR from COGNIS (BASF, Germany), or NAFOL 1618 S from SASOL (Hamburg, Germany); various fatty acids and derivatives having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago 111., USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy), STEARIQUE ACIDE L 4 from COGNIS, and TEGIN M PELLETS from EVONIK.

Among a variety of high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcohols are preferably used in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention. More preferably, cetearyl alcohol is used in the current invention. Such cetearyl alcohol is available, for example, under the tradename ECOROL 68/50 P/F from ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMICALS (Batam Island, Indonesia), LANETTE^® O OR from COGNIS (BASF, Germany), or NAFOL 1618 S from SASOL (Hamburg, Germany).

According to one embodiment, the at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher, is present in an amount in the range of from 2% to 20% by weight in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention, based on the total amount of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher is present in an amount in the range of from 4% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention. id) aqueous carrier

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous carrier. The specific substance suitable as the aqueous carrier and the amount thereof are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.

The aqueous carrier useful in the conditioning composition of the present invention includes water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. The lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. The polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.

Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.

Generally, the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises from 20%) to 99% by weight, preferably from 30%> to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight of the aqueous carrier, preferably water, based on the total weight of the keratin fibers conditioning composition.

Additional Components

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention optionally comprises additional components which are conventionally used in keratin fibers conditioning compositions to provide various benefits. The additional components may be selected from low melting point oil, silicone compound, cationic polymers, particles, cationic surfactants, and other additives.

Low melting point oils

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least one low melting point oil. The low melting point oil useful herein are those having a melting point of less than 25 °C. The low melting point oil useful herein is selected from the group consisting of: hydrocarbon having from about 10 to about 40 carbon atoms; unsaturated fatty alcohols having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms such as oleyl alcohol; unsaturated fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; fatty acid derivatives, for example isopropyl myrisate; fatty alcohol derivatives; ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils including pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, poly a-olefin oils such as polydecenes; and mixtures thereof. For example, the Low melting point oil may selected from those described in paragraph [0092] to paragraph [0111] in US 2003/0215415A1 , which are incorporated herein by reference.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention optionally comprises a low melting point oil in an amount in the range of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10%) by weight, most preferably 0.5% to 3%> by weight based on the total amount of the composition.

Silicone Compound different from fatty substance (c)

Optionally the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the invention contains at least one silicone different from fatty substance (c) as defined herein before. The silicones useful herein may be soluble or insoluble in the keratin fibers conditioning composition, and they may be in particular polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention. They may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. They may be used pure or as an emulsion, a dispersion or a microemulsion. The polyorganosiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane commercially availablve under the name "Volatile Silicone 7207" from Union Carbide or "Silbione 70045 V 2" from Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane commercially availablve under the name "Volatile Silicone 7158" from Union Carbide, and "Silbione 70045 V 5" from Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as "Volatile Silicone FZ 3109" sold by Union Carbide, having the chemical structure:

wKb O:

Mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50:50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-bis (2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones having from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and which viscosity is lower than or equal to 5>< 10^"6 m²/s at 25° C. An example is decamethyl tetrasiloxane commercially available for instance under the trade name "SH 200" from the TORAY SILICONE company. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Among the non-volatile silicones that may be mentioned especially are polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, as well as mixtures thereof.

The polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups that may be mentioned are those containing:

— polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as products called dimethicone copolyol sold by the DOW CORNING company under the trade name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from the UNION CARBIDE and the (C12)alkyl methicone copolyol sold by the DOW CORNING company under the trade name Q2 5200;

— substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the GENESEE company, or the products sold under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the DOW CORNING company. To be mentioned are also the quaternium-80, sold by the GOLDSCHMIDT company under the trade names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272 and ABIL QUAT 3474. The substituted amine groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups. Amino-silicones comprising alkoxy groups may be especially mentioned such as the BELSIL ADM LOG 1 silicone sold by the WACKER company;

— thiol groups, such as the products sold under the trade names "GP 72A" and "GP 71" from the GENESEE company.

— alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the GOLDSCHMIDT company.

— hydroxyl groups, such as the hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganoxiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 8 516 334A;

— acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732;

— carboxylic type anionic groups such as for example, in products described in the European patent EP 186 507 from the CHISSO CORPORATION company, or alkyl carboxylic type anionic groups such as those comprised in the X-22-3701E product from the SHIN-ETSU company; or 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the GOLDSCHMIDT company under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";

— hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the European patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the Q2-8413 product from the DOW CORNING company.

Examples of silicone compounds that are preferably used include polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes containing amino or alkoxy groups.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises the silicone compound in an amount in the range of from 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0 to 5% by weight based on the total amount of the composition.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the keratin fibers conditioning composition does not contain silicone, more preferably does not contain aminosilicone.

Cationic polymers

Optionally the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the invention contains at least one cationic polymer. The keratin fibers conditioning composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers. The expression ""cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from any of those already known useful in the keratin fibers conditioning composition, in particular, those described in patent application EP 0 337 354 A and in French patent applications FR 2 270 846 A, 2 383 660 A, 2 598 611 A, 2 470 596 A and 2 519 863 A.

The preferred cationic polymers are selected from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain, or be borne by a side substituent directly linked thereto. The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5xl0⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3><10⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type. The polymers of these types that may be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among the cationic polymers, the ones prelerably used are quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cationic cyclopolymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C₄)alkyltri(Ci-C₄)alkylammonium salts, and cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention comprises the cationic polymer component in an amount of from 0 to 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

Particles

The keratin fibers conditioning composition according to the invention may optionally comprise particles. The particles useful herein have an average particle size of preferably from about 25 to about 1500 microns, more preferably from about 50 to about 500 microns. Both organic and inorganic particles can be used in the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention. Preferred particles useful herein include, organic particles such as cellulose particles, and inorganic particles such as mica, silica, mud, clay, zeolite, and mixtures thereof, and more preferred are silica. Preferred particles useful herein can be those having a breakability such that the particles are breakable when the particles contained in the compositions are spread on the hands and/or on the hair.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention optionally comprises particles in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10%) by weight, preferably from about 0.1%) to about 5%> by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 %> to about 2%> by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

Cationic surfactants

Optionally the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the invention contains one or more cationic surfactant. The keratin fibers conditioning composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The cationic surfactants useful herein are those well known per se, such as salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

— those of general formula (I) below:

Ri>

χ-

R₂"

(I)

in which the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl having up to 22 carbon atoms. The aliphatic radicals can comprise hetero atoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or halogen. The aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C₂-C6)alkylene, alkylamide, (C₁₂-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂-C6)alkyl, C₁₂-C₂₂ alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C₂-C₆ alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates. Preferred is when Ri, R₂, R3 and R4 are independently selected from C₁-C₂₂ alkyl. Non-limiting examples of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I) include, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

— quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula II below:

in which R₅ donates an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R6 donates a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 donates a C₁-C4 alkyl radical, Rs donates a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates. Such quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline are commercially available, for example under the name Rewoquat® W75 from Re wo; diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III):

in which Rg donates an aliphatic radical containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, Rio, Rii, R12, R13 and Ri4, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, X^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, especially 3. Such diquaternary ammonium salts in particular comprise propane tallow diammonium dichloride;

— quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of formula (IV) below:

O (C_sH_2sO)_z— R₁₈

R_1V— C (OQH^- *— (QH_2tO)— R₁₆ X^"

Rl5 (IV) wherein:

Ri5 is selected from Ci-C₆ alkyl radicals and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; Ri₆ o

is selected from a radical ^Rj<! , a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 o

hydrocarbon radical R2₀, and a hydrogen atom; R₁₈ is selected from a radical ¾ - i _J ^'cL- , a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon radical R22, and a hydrogen atom; R₁₇, R1₉ and R21, being the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₇-C2i hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, being the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, being the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X^" is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion; under the proviso that the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R½ donates R2₀ and that when z is 0 then R₁₈ donates R22.

The Ris alkyl radicals may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably R15 donates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or an ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When Ri₆ is a hydrocarbon radical R2₀, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When Ris is a R22 hydrocarbon radical, it does preferably comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, Rn, R1₉ and R₂₁, being the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Preferably, x and z, being the same or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is 1. Preferably, r, s and t, being the same or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are 2.

Said anion X- donates preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly a methyl sulfate. However a methane sulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate may also be used, or any other anion that is compatible with the ester- functionality ammonium. The anion X- more particularly donates chloride or methyl sulfate.

The ammonium salts of formula (IV) are more particularly those wherein R15 donates a methyl or an ethyl radical, x and y are 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; Ri₆ is selected from the radical

, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, hydrogen atom; Ri₈ is selected from the radical o

¾t C- , hydrogen atom; Rn, R_w and R21, being the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1₃-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1₃-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Advantageously, hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium salts, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium salts, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium salts, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and combinations thereof. The Acyl radicals preferably comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises a plurality of acyl radicals, those may be the same or different.

Such compounds of formula (IV) are commercially available, for example, under Dehyquart^® from the company Cognis, Stepanquat^® from the company Stepan, Noxamium^® from the company CECA or Rewoquat^® WE 18 from the company Rewo Goldschmidt.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention optionally contains the cationic surfactants in an amount of from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight based on the total amount of the composition.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention may comprise other additional components, which may be selected by a skilled person in the art according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide it with additional benefits. Such other additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

A wide variety of other additive components can be formulated into the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydro lysed collagen, vitamin E, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, a mixture of Polysorbate 60 and Cetearyl Alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, 3-pyridinecarboxy acid amide (niacinamide), hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant oils, mineral oils, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; humectants, such as sodium hyaluronate; coloring agents, such as any of the FD & C or D & C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate, antidandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione, and salicylic acid; and optical brighteners, for example polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, imidazoles, and mixtures thereof. Any additional additives known in the state of the art may be added into the keratin fibers conditioning composition.

Preferably keratin fibers conditioning composition contains further at least one silicone compound as defined herein before, at least one cationic polymer as defined herein before, and/or at least one cationic surfactant especially of formula (I) as defined herein before.

The other additives may be selected conventionally by a person skilled in the art according to the practical demand.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention can be used in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays. The composition of the present invention is especially suitable for after-shampoo conditioner.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition as described above may be used to treat keratin fibers such as hair through conventional methods, depending on the application form of thecomposition. For example, when used as an after-shampoo conditioner, the composition of the present invention may be applied through a method comprising following steps:

(i) after shampooing hair, applying to the hair an effective amount of the keratin fibers conditioning composition for conditioning the hair; and

(ii) rinsing the hair.

The effective amount, as used herein, refers to an amount in the range of from about 0.01 g to about 0.8 g per g of hair, preferably from about 0.05 g to about 0.6 g per g of hair.

The keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention may be prepared in conventional simple and novel process. In a preferable embodiment, the present invention provides a process for preparing the keratin fibers conditioning composition comprising the following steps:

(1) preparing an oil phase comprising at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher, and heating this oil phase to a temperature in the range of from above 30 °C, particularly from 50 to 100 °C, preferably from 60 to 90 °C, more preferably from 70 to 85 °C;

(2) preparing an aqueous phase comprising:

- at least one aqueous carrier, and

It will be understood that the above step (1) and step (2) may be carried out in any sequence. The step (1) may be carried out before step (2), after step (2), or in parallel to step (2).

Optionally, the method further comprises adding other components such as one or more of those described as additional components hereinbefore, such as silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives and so on. It will be understood that the addition timing of various components is well known in the state of the art and may be determined easily for a skilled person. Generally, the addition timing of the additional components depends on their physical properties. For example, in case that the additive to be added is hydrophilic and liquid, it may be added after cooling. In case that the additive to be added is lipophilic or is solid hydrophilic, it is better to be added before the homogenization step.

The preparation of the keratin fibers conditioning composition of the present invention may be carried out in any conventional devices known in the state of the art. Preferably, the homogenization is carried out in a high shear homogenizer, for example, IKA T25 ultra-turrax^® from IKA^®(IKA^®) and Silverson^® L5T by SILVERSON^®.

Still in another aspect, the present invention also relates to a use the association of (a), (b), (c), and (d):

(b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group; (c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and

(d) at least one aqueous carrier;

The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments. While the Examples are provided to illustrate the present invention, they are not intended to limit it.

Examples

Following examples were prepared:

Table 1

Phase B is prepared by mixing all ingredients and heating to a temperature of 75 °C , then phase A is heated to 80 °C.

Phase A and phase B are mixed and then homogenized with a homogenizer, IKA T25 ultra-turrax for 1 min. The resulted mixture is cooled down to a temperature of 30 °C with stirring to obtain the hair conditioning compositions. All the examples are evaluated using wet combing method and dry combing method.

Dry combing after rinsing

0.4 g of the Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3, and Invention Example 4 are applied on 6 g of natural black Chinese hair. The conditioning composition is then left on the hair for 5 minutes. Then the hair is rinsed by warm water for 10 seconds, and left to dry over night at room temperature. The friction force between the hair and a polyurethane pad is measured by the instrument named Texture Analyzer provided by Texture Technologies, Scarsdale, USA, before and after being treated with the conditioning composition, respectively. The friction force reduction percentage is calculated in accordance with the equation below:

Friction force before treatment— Friction force after treatment

Reduction % = X 100%

Friction force before treatment

The same treatment as mentioned above is carried out two more times on the same hair. The friction force after 3 treatments is measured and the reduction percentage from the untreated hair to the hair after 3 treatments is also calculated in accordance with the above equation.

Table 2

It can be clearly seen from the results listed in Table 2 that the friction force of the hair which has been conditioned by the Invention Example 4 once is significantly reduced, with comparison to Comparative Examples 1, 2, and 3.

In addition, the Invention Example 4, with comparison to Comparative examples 1, 2, and 3, has significantly reduced the friction force after one application, and at the same time, has significantly less build-up effect which makes the hair becoming greasy and heavy. The less build-up effect may be demonstrated by the small difference between the friction force reduction after 1 application and the friction force reduction after 3 applications. Although Comparative Examples 1 has comparable friction force reduction percentage to the Invention Example 4, the friction force reduction percentage of the former is resulted from the high build-up effect.

Wet combing after rinsing

0.4 g of the Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3, and Invention Example 4 are applied respectively on 1 g of bleached Chinese hair. The conditioning compositions are then left on the hair for 5 minutes. The hair is rinsed by warm water for 10 seconds. The friction force between the hair and a polyurethane pad is measured by the instrument named Texture Analyzer provided by Texture Technologies, Scarsdale, USA.

The same treatment as mentioned above is carried out two more times on the same hair, and the friction force after 3 treatments is measured.

The friction force reduction percentage from the untreated hair to the hair after 1 treatment and the friction force reduction percentage from the untreated hair to the hair after 3 treatments are calculated and evaluated with similar procedure as described above for the dry combing property.

It was found that the friction force of the hair which has been conditioned by the Invention Example 4 is significantly reduced, with comparison to Comparative Examples 1 , 2, and 3. In addition, the Invention Example 4, with comparison to comparative examples 1 , 2, and 3, has reduced the friction force, and at the same time, has significantly less build-up effect which makes the hair becoming greasy and heavy.

It is also observed that the invention example 4 has excellent disentangling effect on the wet hair, significantly better than the comparative examples 1 , 2, and 3.

In addition, two fully formulated hair conditioning compositions are prepared from the ingredients given in following Tables.

Table 3 (Invention Example 5)

Phase A is prepared by mixing all ingredients and then heating to 80 °C. Phase B is prepared by mixing all ingredients and heating to 75 °C. Phase A and phase B are mixed with stirring and then homogenized immediately with a homogenizer, IKA T25 ultra-turrax, for 1 min. The obtained homogeneous mixture of phase A and phase B are cooled down to 30 °C with stirring. Table 4 (Invention Example 6)

Phase A is prepared by mixing all ingredients and then heating to 80 °C. Phase B is prepared by dispersing polyquaternium- 10 in water firstly, and mixing the resulted dispersion with remaining ingredients and heating to 75 °C. Phase A and phase B are mixed with stirring and then homogenized immediately with a homogenizer, IKA T25 ultra-turrax, for 1 min. Into thus obtained homogeneous mixture of phase A and phase B cooled down to 55 °C, the ingredients of phase C are added with stirring, continue to cool down to 25 °C with stirring.

The invention examples 5 and 6 are stable over time, and bring to the hair attractive conditioning effect, i.e., shine and soft feel, smoothness and suppleness.

Moreover, the invention examples 5 and 6 bring to the hair an excellent disentangling effect on both wet and dry hair.

Claims

1. A keratin fibers conditioning composition, comprising:

(a) at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates;

(c) at least one high melting point fatty substance having a melting point of 25 °C or higher; and

(d) at least one aqueous carrier.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the ingredient (a) is of formula (A):

^^(0)-Ν(Η)^²-^¾⁴ (A)

wherein:

• R² is a linear Ci-Ce, preferably C1-C4 alkylene group, more preferably -(CH₂)₃- group;

• R³ and R⁴, same or different, are linear alkyl groups having a C1-C4 carbon chain, and preferably R₃ and R4 are methyl or ethyl groups, more preferably -CH₃ group.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ingredient (a) is stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and their salts and solvates such as hydrates, preferably stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine.

4. Composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the ingredient (a) is present in an amount in the range of from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5 Composition according to any one of preceding claims, in which the ingredient (b) is of formula (B) and their cosmetic salts and their solvates such as hydrates,

HO-C(0)-alk-C(0)-OH (B)

wherein alk represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkylene group, particularly a (Ci-C₃)alkylene group such as ethylene group, which is substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably by two hydroxyl group.

6. Composition according to any one of preceding claims, in which the ingredient (b) represents tartaric acid and their salts and solvates such as hydrates, preferably tartaric acid.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ingredient (b) is present in an amount in the range of from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of preceding claims, wherein the ingredient (c) is selected from fatty alcohol, particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alcohols comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably these fatty alcohols are saturated, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof, preferably ingredient (c) is cetearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, and more preferably ingredient (c) is cetearyl alcool.

9. Composition according to any of preceding claims, comprising from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, more preferably 5% to 10% by weight of the high melting point fatty substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ingredient (d) is selected from the group consisting of water, water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols, preferably water solution of ethanol and isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol, more preferably water with glycerin or water alone, more preferably water alone.

11. Composition according to any of preceding claims, comprising from 20 to 99% by weight, preferably 30% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 90% by weight of the aqueous carrier, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any of preceding claims, wherein the mole ratio of (a) (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine to (b) dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group, preferably two hydroxyl groups, the said dicarboxylic acid not bearing a cyclic group (a) : (b) is in the range of from 1 :5 to 10: 1 , more preferably from 1 :5 to 5: 1 , most preferably 1 :3 to 3: 1.

13. Composition according to any of preceding claims, further comprising at least one component selected from the group consisting of low melting point oil, silicone compound, cationic polymers, particles, cationic surfactants, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, salts, humectants, coloring agents, hair oxidizing agents, hair reducing agents, perfumes, sequestering agents, ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents, antidandruff agents, optical brighteners, and further conditioning agents such as plant oils, mineral oils, and/or nutrients, especially further comprising at least one component selected from the group consisting of low melting point oil, silicone compound, cationic polymers, particles, and cationic surfactants, preferably further comprising at least one silicone compound, at least one cationic polymer, and/or at least one cationic surfactant.

14. Use of a combination of (a) at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C₈)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine as defined in anyone of the claims 1 to 4; (b) at least one dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 5 to 7, (c) at least one high melting point fatty compound having a melting point of 25 °C or higher as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 8 or 9; and (d) at least one aqueous carrier as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 10 or 11 , as a conditioning agent for conditioning keratin fiber such as hair.

15. A process for preparing composition according to any of preceding claims 1 to 13, comprising the steps of:

(1) preparing an oil phase comprising the high melting point fatty compounds as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 8 or 9, and heating this oil phase to a temperature in the range of from above 30 °C, particularly from 50 to 100 °C, preferably from 60 to 90 °C, more preferably from 70 to 85 °C;

(2) preparing an aqueous phase comprising:

- at least one (Cio-C₃o)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkyl(di)(Ci-C6)alkylamine as defined in anyone of the claims 1 to 4,

- at least one dicarboxylic acid dicarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl group as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 5 to 7 and

- at least one aqueous carrier as defined in anyone of the claims 1 , 10 or 11 ,

and heating this aqueous phase to a temperature in the range of from 40 to 95°C, preferably from 60 to 90°C, more preferably from 70 to 85°C;

(3) mixing the oil phase and the aqueous phase together, and homogenizing especially with an homogenizer for at least 30 seconds, especially 1 to 5 min; and

16. A keratin fibers conditioning composition obtainable by the preceding process as claimed in claim 15.