EP3264931B2 - Article de chaussure amélioré et procédé de fabrication dudit article de chaussure - Google Patents

Article de chaussure amélioré et procédé de fabrication dudit article de chaussure Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3264931B2
EP3264931B2 EP15716867.5A EP15716867A EP3264931B2 EP 3264931 B2 EP3264931 B2 EP 3264931B2 EP 15716867 A EP15716867 A EP 15716867A EP 3264931 B2 EP3264931 B2 EP 3264931B2
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Prior art keywords
stitches
area
footwear item
fabric element
person
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EP15716867.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3264931B1 (fr
EP3264931A1 (fr
Inventor
Lino Enzo BOSCATO
Fabio BOSCATO
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Tessma Srl
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Tessma Srl
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08—Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/028—Synthetic or artificial fibres
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/05—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom woven
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic

Definitions

  • the invention concerns a footwear item of the improved type, structured in such a way as to make it possible to drastically reduce its complexity and the number of steps necessary for its production.
  • the invention concerns also the method for making said improved footwear item.
  • footwear means any type of object intended to protect the foot, of the type comprising a sole kept in position by an upper.
  • said production methods usually comprise a first step in which a designer drafts on paper a first sketch illustrating an idea for a footwear item. Said idea is successively transferred on prototypes, usually made of a plastic material, in such a way as to simulate the three-dimensional shape that the footwear item will assume.
  • the prototypes in turn make it possible to define on a plane the various patterns, typically made of cardboard, which represent the individual portions made of leather or another material that, joined together, will form the actual upper of the footwear item.
  • said patterns are positioned on large pieces of leather, or another material, in such a way that they serve as a guide for cutting said individual leather portions that will make up the upper.
  • said leather portions are press-cut by means of automatic or semi-automatic devices, like for example presses, it is necessary to produce special dies having the same shape as said cardboard patterns.
  • the upper obtained by proceeding as described above is successively connected to a sole and is optionally equipped with some accessories like, for example, laces, Velcro straps or zip fasteners, in such a way as to make it easier for a user to put on the shoe.
  • some accessories like, for example, laces, Velcro straps or zip fasteners, in such a way as to make it easier for a user to put on the shoe.
  • a first drawback posed by said methods is represented by the need to perform all the steps mentioned above for each footwear model and for each size of each model.
  • the present invention intends to overcome all of the drawbacks mentioned above.
  • the document US 1902780 discloses a method for manufacturing a component of a footwear item and the relevant footwear item by means of knitting.
  • the footwear item that is the subject of the invention is characterized in that the upper is obtained from a fabric element made as a single piece through a weaving process.
  • this fabric element in particular, it is possible to identify at least three areas that are adjacent to one another and, at least at the level of joining sections between the first area and the second area and between the second area and the third area, it features a type of stitch pattern according to which the stitches located at the centre are tucked with respect to the lateral stitches.
  • This type of stitch pattern makes it possible to give a three-dimensional shape to the same fabric element, with a parabolic outline according to the direction defined by its longitudinal axis.
  • the term "stitch” means any loop pulled through between the weft yarn and the warp yarns in order to join them.
  • any row that makes up a woven fabric, called “rank” in technical jargon is constituted by a single weft yarn that is pulled through the warp yarns more than once, moving from one side of the loom to the other in such a way as to define a plurality of said stitches.
  • said stitch pattern with tuck stitches the insertion of the weft yarn is skipped at the level of predefined warp yarns along the same row. In this way, a row in which said stitch pattern with tuck stitches has been created will have a smaller number of stitches than a row in which the weft yarn has been pulled through all of the warp yarns.
  • the fabric element that constitutes the upper of the footwear item of the invention is made with an elastic yarn, as expressed in claim 5, on one side makes it easier for a user to put on said footwear item even in the absence of laces, zip fasteners or Velcro straps, and on the other side to improve the wearability of the shoe itself as the upper can adhere and properly adapt to the size of the person's leg.
  • the use of a fabric element improves the breathability of the footwear item.
  • said elastic yarn comprises the product known as Elastam in a percentage that ranges between 2% and 10%. It cannot be excluded, however, that Elastam may also be used in different percentages or that different elastic materials may be used instead of Elastam.
  • the invention also includes the method for making the footwear item of the invention.
  • the improved footwear item of the invention is represented as a whole in Figure 1 , where it is indicated by 1.
  • said footwear item 1 comprises a sole 2 that allows it to rest on an underlying surface, and an upper 3 defining an inner space suited to accommodate and hold a person's foot.
  • the upper 3 is connected to said sole 2 by means of known techniques and elements, for example by sewing or glueing.
  • the footwear item 1 is a boot. It cannot be excluded, however, that in different embodiments of the invention said footwear item 1 may be of a different type, for example a sports shoe, a moccasin, etc., which can be obtained by conveniently modifying the dimensions of the elements that make it up.
  • the upper 3 comprises and is obtained by means of a fabric element 4 shown in Figures from 2 to 4, created as a single piece through a weaving process and successively folded on itself in such a way as to connect its two longitudinal sides 43 and 44.
  • said fabric element 4 defines three areas 51, 52 and 53 that are adjacent to one another along the direction defined by its longitudinal axis X.
  • the first area 51 is suited to at least partially enclose the leg of a person, as shown in Figure 1
  • the second area 52 is suited to enclose the tarsal part of the person's foot
  • the third area 53 is suited to enclose the metatarsal part of the foot when the same footwear item 1 is worn by said person.
  • the fabric element 4 at least at the level of joining sections 61 and 62 that are respectively located between the first area 51 and the second area 52 and between the second area 52 and the third area 53, features a stitch pattern according to which, for each row of said sections 61 and 62, the stitches 7 located at the centre are tucked with respect to the lateral stitches 8, in such a way as to give said fabric element 4 a three-dimensional shape with parabolic outline according to the direction defined by its longitudinal axis X. Said parabolic outline can be clearly observed in Figure 4 .
  • the fabric element 4 obtained in this way develops according to an outline that substantially reproduces that of the tarsal area of the foot of the person who will wear the footwear item 1 of the invention, with no need to carry out further processing steps to form the upper, differently from that which is envisaged by the methods for making footwear items of the known art.
  • further one or more sections may be provided, interposed between said two joining sections 61 and 62 and featuring said stitch pattern with central tuck stitches 7.
  • the higher the number of sections featuring said stitch pattern the more rounded the substantially parabolic outline of the fabric element 4.
  • the number of central stitches 7 that are tucked with respect to the lateral stitches 8, for each one of said joining sections 61 and 62, increases progressively according to an advance direction indicated by the arrow V in Figures from 2 to 4, as defined by the same longitudinal axis X.
  • said type of stitch pattern only the central stitch 71 passing through the longitudinal axis X may initially be tucked, and successively also the stitches adjacent to said central stitch 71 after a given number of rows, and then other stitches adjacent to the previous tuck stitches, and so on until the number of tuck stitches substantially corresponds to the number of stitches that can be made in one row.
  • Said sections 61 and 62 featuring said stitch pattern will develop following diverging directions, as shown in Figures 2 and 3 .
  • the fabric element 4 respectively includes said second and third area 52 and 53, in which all of the stitches of each row are carried out correctly.
  • the alternance between said three areas 51, 52 and 53 and said joining sections 61 and 62 makes it possible to obtain said parabolic outline of the fabric element 4, as shown in Figure 4 .
  • the fabric element 4 has a symmetrical outline with respect to its longitudinal axis X .
  • said fabric element 4 features a first progressive casting off 10 of the stitches at the level of both of the longitudinal sides 43 and 44, according to said advance direction indicated by the arrow V.
  • Said casting off 10 makes it possible to adapt the inner space that will be defined by the upper 3 to the progressive decrease in the diameter of the leg of the person who will wear the footwear item 1.
  • the perimeter profile of the same fabric element 4 includes a progressive increase 11 of the stitches at the level of said longitudinal sides 43 and 44, in such a way as to define the area corresponding to the heel of the person.
  • the fabric element 4 comprises a second progressive casting off 12 of the stitches at the level of both of the longitudinal sides 43 and 44, so as to define the profile assumed by the metatarsal area of the foot of said person when the footwear item 1 is worn.
  • the perimeter profile of the fabric element 4 may have an outline that is different from that described for the preferred embodiment, provided that it makes it possible to define an upper 3 that respects the shape of the leg and foot of the person who will wear the footwear item 1.
  • the fabric element 4 is at least partially obtained from yarns of the elastic type.
  • the use of said elastic yarns makes it possible to conveniently deform the upper 3 in such a way that the inner space defined by it can be increased, therefore making it easier for a person to put on the footwear item 1 of the invention.
  • said elasticity of the upper 3 allows it to assume the shape of the person's leg and to properly adhere to the latter once the footwear item 1 has been completely put on.
  • the footwear item 1 comprises, arranged inside said space defined by the upper 3, rigid or semi-rigid elements 9 configured so as to at least partially maintain the shape of the footwear item 1, at least at the level of its tip and heel.
  • said rigid or semi-rigid elements 9 can be made of leather, a stiffened fabric or a plastic material.
  • footwear item 1 may not be provided with said rigid or semi-rigid elements 9.
  • the invention includes also the method for making said footwear item 1 of the invention.
  • the first production step is the step of making the fabric element 4 as a single piece through a weaving process.
  • said fabric element 4 It is important to underline that the study of the shape that said fabric element 4 will assume is previously carried out virtually by means of special computer programs. Said computer programs, furthermore, are capable of translating the data of the defined shape into "machine stitches” and transferring them to the loom, which will provide for actually producing said fabric element 4.
  • said first step of studying the shape makes it possible to skip said steps of making the patterns and cutting the portions made of leather or other materials envisaged by the methods of the known art, as previously described.
  • the availability of the virtual model of the footwear item 1 of the invention makes it possible to modify the aesthetic appearance of the same, that is, to change the texture of its outer surface, with a simple procedure and substantially at no cost, differently from that which happens when the footwear production methods of the known art are used.
  • This weaving process includes the production of the fabric element 4 comprising at least three areas 51, 52 and 53 adjacent to one another along the direction defined by its longitudinal axis X.
  • the first area 51 is suited to at least partially enclose the leg of a person
  • the second area 52 is suited to enclose the tarsal part of the foot of said person
  • the third area 53 is suited to enclose the metatarsal part of said foot when the footwear item 1 of the invention is worn by the same person.
  • said fabric element 4 is made in such a way that, at least at the level of joining sections 61 and 62 interposed between said three areas 51, 52 and 53, it features a stitch pattern according to which the central stitches 7 are tucked with respect to the lateral stitches 8.
  • This type of stitch pattern makes it possible to give the fabric element 4 a three-dimensional shape with parabolic outline according to the direction defined by the same longitudinal axis X, as shown in Figure 4 .
  • the fabric element 4 is produced with a perimeter profile that is symmetrical with respect to the longitudinal axis X, as shown always in Figure 3 and as described above.
  • the fabric element 4 is successively folded on itself along said longitudinal axis X, as shown in Figure 5 . It can be observed, in particular, that the symmetrical shape of the fabric element 4 allows a perfect superimposition of the two symmetrical halves 41 and 42 and of the corresponding longitudinal sides 43 and 44.
  • said two longitudinal sides 43 and 44 are at least partially joined to each other in such a way as to define the upper 3 of the footwear item 1 of the invention, as shown in Figures 6 and 7 .
  • said joining step includes the sewing of the two longitudinal sides 43 and 44 to each other.
  • said joining step may be carried out by glueing said two longitudinal sides 43 and 44 onto each other.
  • rigid or semi-rigid elements 9 are preferably but not necessarily inserted in the upper 3, at least at the height of the tip and the heel, said rigid or semi-rigid elements being configured to maintain the shape of the footwear item 1 of the invention in said two areas.
  • step of inserting the rigid or semi-rigid elements 9 may be absent.
  • the method of the invention includes a further step of at least partially connecting the lower edge 31 of the upper 3 with the perimeter area 21 of the sole 2, in such a way as to complete the production of the footwear item 1 of the invention shown in Figure 1 .
  • the footwear item of the invention and the method of the invention for making the same achieve all of the set objects.
  • the invention achieves the object to provide a footwear item structured in such a way as to make it possible to drastically reduce the steps that are necessary for its production.
  • Another object achieved by the invention is the object to provide a footwear item structured in such a way as to make it possible to reduce, if not to eliminate, the waste material generated during its production steps. Consequently, to advantage, for the definition of the final cost of the footwear item it is no more necessary to take in consideration the costs deriving from the generation and the disposal of scraps, with consequent economic advantages.
  • a further object achieved by the invention is the object to provide a footwear item structured in such a way as to make it possible to reduce, if not to eliminate, those production steps that require human labour.
  • the invention achieves the object to provide a footwear item structured in such a way that it can be produced in series while at the same time guaranteeing a high degree of uniformity among the items produced in the same production lot.
  • the invention also achieves the object to provide a footwear item structured in such a way as to make it possible to modify its aesthetic appearance with a simple procedure and at no cost.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Chaussure (1) du type qui comprend:
    - une semelle (2) permettant à ladite chaussure (1) de reposer sur une surface sous-jacente;
    - une empeigne (3) qui définit un espace intérieur adapté pour accueillir et tenir le pied d'une personne, ladite empeigne (3) étant reliée à ladite semelle (2);
    dans laquelle ladite empeigne (3) comprend un élément en tissu (4) obtenu en une seule pièce suivant un processus de tissage et plié successivement sur lui-même dans la direction définie par son axe longitudinal (X), ledit élément en tissu (4) définissant au moins trois zones (51, 52, 53) adjacentes les unes aux autres le long dudit axe longitudinal (X) et dans lesquelles tous les points de couture de chaque rangée sont correctement réalisés, la première zone (51) étant adaptée pour envelopper au moins partiellement la jambe d'une personne, la seconde zone (52) étant adaptée pour envelopper la partie du tarse du pied de ladite personne et la troisième zone (53) étant adaptée pour envelopper la partie du métatarse dudit pied lorsque ladite chaussure (1) est portée par ladite personne, dans laquelle ledit élément en tissu (4) présente, au moins au niveau des sections de jonction (61, 62) entre ladite première zone (51) et ladite seconde zone (52), et entre ladite seconde zone (52) et ladite troisième zone (53), un type de motif de couture selon lequel les points de couture situés au centre (7) sont repliés par rapport aux points de couture latéraux (8) de sorte à conférer audit élément en tissu (4) une forme tridimensionnelle à contour sensiblement parabolique selon la direction définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X), dans laquelle le nombre de points de couture centraux (7) repliés par rapport aux points de couture latéraux (8) pour chacune desdites sections (61, 62) augmente progressivement selon une direction d'avance (V) définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X), ladite chaussure comprenant en outre, à l'intérieur dudit espace défini par ladite empeigne (3), des éléments rigides ou semi-rigides (9) configurés de manière à maintenir la forme de ladite chaussure (1) au moins au niveau de la pointe et du talon.
  2. Chaussure (1) selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que ledit élément en tissu (4) comprend une ou plusieurs autres sections présentant ledit motif de couture avec des mailles chargées, lesdites sections étant obtenues de sorte qu'elles soient interposées entre lesdites deux sections de jonction (61, 62).
  3. Chaussure (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit élément en tissu (4) est symétrique par rapport audit axe longitudinal (X).
  4. Chaussure (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit élément en tissu (4), avant d'être plié sur lui-même, présente, selon une direction d'avance (V) définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X):
    - un premier motif de couture avec diminution progressive (10) des points de couture au niveau des deux côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) afin d'adapter ledit espace intérieur à la diminution du diamètre de la jambe d'une personne;
    - un motif de couture avec augmentation progressive (11) des points de couture au niveau desdits côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) de sorte à définir la zone correspondant au talon de ladite personne;
    - un second motif de couture avec diminution progressive (12) des points de couture au niveau desdits côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) de sorte à définir le profil de la zone du métatarse du pied de ladite personne.
  5. Chaussure (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit élément en tissu (4) comprend des fils du type élastique.
  6. Procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure (1), ledit procédé comprenant les opérations suivantes:
    - fabriquer, au moyen d'un processus de tissage, un élément en tissu (4) en une seule pièce, ledit élément en tissu (4) définissant au moins trois zones (51, 52, 53) adjacentes les unes aux autres dans la direction définie par son axe longitudinal (X) et dans lequel tous les points de couture de chaque rangée sont correctement réalisés, la première zone (51) étant adaptée pour envelopper au moins partiellement la jambe d'une personne, la seconde zone (52) étant adaptée pour envelopper la partie du tarse du pied de ladite personne et la troisième zone (53) étant adaptée pour envelopper la partie du métatarse dudit pied lorsque ladite chaussure (1) est portée par ladite personne, ledit élément en tissu (4) présentant, au moins au niveau des sections de jonction (61, 62) entre ladite première zone (51) et ladite seconde zone (52) et entre ladite seconde zone (52) et ladite troisième zone (53), un type de motif de couture selon lequel les points de couture situés au centre (7) sont repliés par rapport aux points de couture latéraux (8) de sorte à donner audit élément en tissu (4) une forme tridimensionnelle à contour sensiblement parabolique selon la direction définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X), dans lequel le nombre de points de couture centraux (7) repliés par rapport aux points de couture latéraux (8) pour chacune desdites sections (61, 62) augmente progressivement selon une direction d'avance (V) définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X);
    - plier ledit élément en tissu (4) sur lui-même le long dudit axe longitudinal (X);
    - relier au moins partiellement l'un à l'autre, les deux côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) dudit élément en tissu (4), de sorte à définir l'empeigne (3) de ladite chaussure (1);
    - insérer dans l'espace défini par ladite empeigne (3) des éléments rigides ou semi-rigides (9) configurés pour maintenir la forme de ladite chaussure (1) au moins au niveau de la pointe et du talon;
    - relier au moins partiellement le bord inférieur (31) de ladite empeigne (3) à la zone périphérique (21) d'une semelle (2).
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que ledit élément en tissu (4) est formé de manière symétrique par rapport audit axe longitudinal (X).
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que lors de la fabrication dudit élément en tissu (4), les étapes suivantes sont réalisées selon une direction d'avance (V) définie par ledit axe longitudinal (X):
    - un premier motif de couture avec diminution progressive (10) des points de couture au niveau des tous les deux côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) de sorte à adapter ledit espace intérieur à la diminution du diamètre de la jambe d'une personne;
    - un motif de couture avec augmentation progressive (11) des points de couture au niveau desdits côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) de sorte à définir la zone correspondant au talon de ladite personne;
    - un second motif de couture avec diminution progressive (12) des points de couture au niveau desdits côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) de sorte à définir le profil de la zone du métatarse du pied de ladite personne.
  9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisé en ce que lors de ladite opération de jonction, lesdits deux côtés longitudinaux (43, 44) sont cousus l'un à l'autre.
EP15716867.5A 2015-03-06 2015-03-06 Article de chaussure amélioré et procédé de fabrication dudit article de chaussure Active EP3264931B2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IB2015/051660 WO2016142737A1 (fr) 2015-03-06 2015-03-06 Article de chaussure amélioré et procédé de fabrication dudit article de chaussure

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EP3264931A1 EP3264931A1 (fr) 2018-01-10
EP3264931B1 EP3264931B1 (fr) 2019-04-03
EP3264931B2 true EP3264931B2 (fr) 2022-03-23

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ES (1) ES2732906T5 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016142737A1 (fr)

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IT201700109721A1 (it) 2017-10-03 2019-04-03 Vueffe Studio Srl Metodo per la realizzazione di una tomaia cambrata con tecnica di “aghi a sospensione graduale” per ottenere la forma circolare di detta tomaia.

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DE102013107803A1 (de) 2013-07-22 2015-01-22 Visiotex GmbH Elastischer Schuh

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EP3264931A1 (fr) 2018-01-10
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ES2732906T3 (es) 2019-11-26
ES2732906T5 (es) 2022-07-19

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