EP3125863A1

EP3125863A1 - Method for protecting the skin from uv radiation

Info

Publication number: EP3125863A1
Application number: EP15711175.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Andreas Bleckmann; Heike Lerg
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2014-04-01
Filing date: 2015-03-20
Publication date: 2017-02-08
Also published as: DE102014206214A1; WO2015150122A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for protecting the human skin from UV radiation, characterized in that i) initially the skin is moistened with water, ii) subsequently a cosmetic preparation containing a) an acrylate copolymer having a glass transition temperature of between -5 to -15 C°, measured according to DSC, b) a particulate UV filter, is applied to the moistened skin, and iii) the skin is rinsed with water after the application of the cosmetic preparation.

Description

description

Method of protecting the skin from UV radiation

The present invention relates to a method for protecting human skin from UV rays, characterized in that

i) first the skin is moistened with water,

ii) subsequently to the moistened skin containing a cosmetic preparation

a) an acrylate copolymer having a glass transition temperature of -5 to -15 ° C,

measured by DSC and

b) UV filter

is applied,

iii) and after application of the cosmetic preparation the skin is rinsed with water.

The trend away from the noble paleness to the "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years, to achieve this, people are putting their skin on the skin

Solar radiation, as this causes a pigmentation in the sense of melanin formation. However, the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to the acute injury (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs due to excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive action of the UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and leads to premature skin aging.

To protect the skin, therefore, a number of sunscreen filter substances have been developed which can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are in the form of positive lists in most industrialized countries such as Appendix 7 of the

Cosmetics Regulation summarized. However, the variety of commercially available sunscreens must not obscure the fact that these prior art formulations have a number of disadvantages.

A relatively new product form for skincare is the hydrodispersions used in the shower, which are applied to the wet skin after a first showering process, wherein subsequently in a second showering process excess, not fixed on the skin preparation is rinsed off (so-called in-shower products, the analog as shower gels are applied, in contrast to these, however, do not cleanse, but apply the care product to the skin).

A disadvantage of the conventional in-shower products is the fact that they can hardly be effectively applied with UV light protection filters for the UV protection of the skin. Most of the UV filters are rinsed more or less completely from the skin during the second showering process, so that virtually no UV protection can occur.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a method for applying UV light protection filters to the skin, with which larger amounts of UV filters can be effectively applied to the skin. In particular, sun protection factors of at least SPF 6.2 should be achieved in a normal application.

Surprisingly, the object is achieved by a method for protecting human skin from UV rays, characterized in that

i) first the skin is moistened with water,

ii) subsequently to the moistened skin containing a cosmetic preparation

measured by DSC and

b) one or more UV filters

is applied,

The solution of the problem is particularly surprising because the expert had to assume that UV filters show a particularly low adhesion to the skin during the in-shower application and rinsed off again during the second flushing process.

The glass transition temperature according to the invention is determined by means of differential scanning calorimetry. In the context of the present invention (ie according to the invention) was a Mettler DCS 1 device in the temperature cycle mode with a perforated aluminum crucible (40μΙ), at a measurement temperature of -50 ° C to +150 ° C, a heating rate of 10 ° C / min. and nitrogen used as purge gas (nitrogen 5.0).

The terms "according to the invention", "advantageous according to the invention" etc. in the context of the present disclosure always refer to the process according to the invention and the preparation according to the invention, even if this is not expressly mentioned.

It is according to the invention advantageous if the moistening of the skin with water i) and rinsing after application of the cosmetic preparation iii) with the aid of a

Shower device is done.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that after the rinsing process iii) the skin is dried.

In such a case, it is preferred according to the invention if the drying process takes place with the aid of a towel. However, the drying process can in principle be done with the help of a hair dryer, with the help of wind and / or with the help of solar radiation.

It is inventively advantageous if the water when moistening the skin i) and when rinsing iii) has a temperature of 10 to 50 ° C. Temperatures of 20 to 40 ° C are preferred according to the invention.

In addition, it is advantageous according to the invention, when water with a salt content <0, 1% by weight is used for moistening the skin i) and when rinsing iii).

According to the invention, tap water is preferably used for this purpose.

Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the rinsing process iii) is less than five minutes.

Moreover, it is inventively advantageous if less than 50 liters of water are used for the rinsing process iii). According to the invention preferably less than 30 liters of water is used. Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that a water pressure of less than 2 bar is used for the rinsing process iii).

According to the invention, it is advantageous if, in step ii), skin area of 0.5 to 5 milligrams of cosmetic preparation is applied per square decimeter.

It is inventively preferred if in step ii) skin area of 1.0-0.3 milligrams of cosmetic preparation are applied per square decimeter.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the cosmetic preparation contains the acrylate copolymer in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, one is preferred

Concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is inventively advantageous if the cosmetic preparation contains UV filter in a concentration of 2 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. In this case, a UV filter concentration of 5 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, when the cosmetic

Formulation contains one or more UV filters, which are selected from the group of compounds 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; Compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or salts thereof and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol ; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidene-camphor; ethylhexyl salicylate; 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Di (2-ethylhexyl) -4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; homomenthyl; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-bis

Ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer; 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester; Dioctylbutylamidotnazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone); 2,4- bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -im

with the (CAS No. 288254-16-0); 2,4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) ; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); merocyanines; 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazole) 2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine; titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide.

It is inventively preferred if as UV filter one or more compounds selected from the group 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or salts thereof, ethylhexyl salicylate, Homomenthylsalicylat, 2nd Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 4,4 ', - (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is free of propyl and propylene

Butyl paraben, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone).

Moreover, it is inventively advantageous if the acrylate copolymer in the cosmetic preparation has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation

Ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol and / or 1, 2-decanediol.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are furthermore characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains one or more active substances selected from the group consisting of the compounds magnolia extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha- Glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, β-alanine and / or licochalcone A.

It is furthermore advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation

Containing phenoxyethanol and / or methylparaben. Moreover, it is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the cosmetic preparation contains one or more complexing agents. According to the invention, the use of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid alkali metal salts (EDTA) is preferred.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention preferably contains from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight of EDTA, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Embodiments which are advantageous according to the invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains ethanol and / or glycerol.

The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention may also contain other oil, fat and wax components, for example, polar oils from the group of lecithins or compounds such. Cocoglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nutol and the like. Also compounds such as phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate can be used.

Also advantageous according to the invention are z. As natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or Dicaprylyl- carbonate, for example, that available under the trade name Cetiol CC in the company. Cognis.

It is furthermore advantageous to use the oil component or components from the group of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C 12-13 -alkyl lactate, di-C 12-13 -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, Dimethyl isosorbide can be selected. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of Ci2-is-alkyl benzoate.

Advantageous oil components are also z. Isopropyl palmitate, myristyl myristate,

Butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall), tridecyl salicylate (which is available under the trade name Cosmacol ESI from the company. Sasol), C12-C15 alkyl salicylate (under the trade name Dermol NS in the company Alzo available), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C13- 16 isoparaffin and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention may contain the customary ingredients and be composed as a conventional preparation.

Moreover, it is according to the invention if the method according to the invention is used to protect the human skin from UV radiation.

Also according to the invention is the cosmetic preparation described here.

Not least according to the invention is that the cosmetic preparation described here can be used according to the method described here.

Comparative Experiment / embodiment

The effect according to the invention could be demonstrated by way of example with the following experiment: The following formulations were prepared and tested according to the stated test protocol: specified acrylates

Crosspolymer concentration of 2% by weight (effective value)

² Daitosol 3000SLPN from Daitosakai with a glass transition temperature of + 14.5 These preparations were applied and tested according to the following experimental protocol

Method: SPF assessment according to the ISO 24444 (2010) and the International SPF Test Method (COLI PA 2006) on pre-showered and rinsed skin UV-protection is retained after showering , wet application and rinsing):

1) Area marking (7 areas: control, 3 products static, 3 products wet)

2) As usual, the products (2 mg / cm ² ) are applied to the control area and static areas and irradiated. The SPF is determined (SPF static).

3) The test executor foams each "wet area" with a neutral shower product for 30 seconds and then flushes it individually with a shower for 30 s (= simulation showering).

4) The test person wears the same products again in the 3 wet areas (2 mg / cm ² ) and distributes them as usual

5) After a residence time of 1.5 minutes, the test areas are rinsed for 10 seconds by means of a flow shower

6) The test person dries the test area gently dabbing with a white towel.

7) The SPF in the 3 "wet areas" is then determined again with reduced expected value of the SPF (SPF wet).

8) The difference between SPF static and SPF wet determines the water resistance

(WR) in%.

Claims

claims

1 . Method for protecting human skin from UV rays, thereby

marked that

i) first the skin is moistened with water,

ii) subsequently to the moistened skin, a cosmetic preparation comprising a) an acrylate copolymer having a glass transition temperature of -5 to -15 ° C, measured by means of DSC and

b) one or more UV filters

is applied,

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the moistening of the skin with water i) and the rinsing after the application of the cosmetic preparation iii) by means of a shower device.

3. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that after the rinsing process iii) the skin is dried.

4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that the drying process is carried out with the aid of a towel.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water in the moistening of the skin i) and when rinsing iii) a

Temperature of 10 to 50 ° C.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for moistening the skin i) and when rinsing iii) water with a salt content <0, 1% by weight is used.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the rinsing process iii) is less than five minutes.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the rinsing process iii) less than 50 liters of water are used.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the rinsing process iii) a water pressure of less than 2 bar is used.

10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in step ii) per square decimeter skin area of 1 to 3 milligrams

cosmetic preparation are applied.

1 1. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains the acrylate copolymer in a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation UV filter in a concentration of 5 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains one or more UV filters, which are selected from the group of compounds 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidene- methyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts;

Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; Compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or salts thereof and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol ; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidenecamphor; ethylhexyl salicylate; 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester; Isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; homomenthyl; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer; 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexylbutamidotriazone); 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the (CAS No 288254-16-0); 2,4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) ; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); merocyanines; 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazole) 2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl

1, 3,5-triazine; Titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide.

14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is free of propyl and Butylparaben, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor and 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone).

15. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acrylate copolymer in the cosmetic preparation has a pH of 4.5 to 6.5.

16. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol and / or 1, 2-decanediol.

17. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation one or more active ingredients selected from the group of the compounds magnolia extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha Glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids,

Glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, β-alanine and / or licochalcone A.

18. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains phenoxyethanol and / or methylparaben.

19. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains one or more complexing agents.

20. The method according to any one of the preceding claims for the protection of human skin from UV radiation.

21. Cosmetic preparation usable in a method according to claim 1 to 20.