Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/49—Solubiliser, Solubilising system
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

• the invention relates to a novel surfactant composition for use in the preparation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations for topical use.
• the emulsifying agents used in these circumstances can be of different natures. If its chemical structure does not carry a charge, this compound is called a surfactant or nonionic surfactant; if it is attached to it a negative charge counterbalanced by a cation, it is an anionic surfactant; if different types of charges coexist on the carbon chain of the same chemical structure it is an amphoteric surfactant and finally, if the chemical structure comprises a group with a positive charge counterbalanced by an anion, it is a question of a cationic surfactant.
• a surfactant or nonionic surfactant if it is attached to it a negative charge counterbalanced by a cation, it is an anionic surfactant; if different types of charges coexist on the carbon chain of the same chemical structure it is an amphoteric surfactant and finally, if the chemical structure comprises a group with a positive charge counterbalanced by an anion, it is a question of a cationic
• cationic surfactants are hair products and cosmetic formulas with a strong presence of mineral and / or organic fillers, such as sun products. Creams, especially those for depilatory use, and lotions, may also include such cationic surfactants.
• Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants are the most widely used in the cosmetics industry [Martin M. Reiger, “Harry's Cosmeticology,” 8 th Edition, (2000), Vol. I-ll, p. 201, Chemical Publishing]. These include quaternary ammonium structures such as trimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride or behenyltrimonium methanesulfonate [Michael and Irene Ash, "Handbook of lubricants", (2012), (2 nd Edition), 999, Synapse Information Resources ], marketed for example by Croda under the name Incroquat Behenyl TMS [EW Flick, "Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations", (1997), Vol.
• R ' represents, for example, an alkyl radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R "representing a methyl radical or an ethyl radical and Y " representing a halogen, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate anion.
• R ' represents, for example, a methyl radical or a benzyl radical
• the reagents used according to these two approaches are of synthetic or petrochemical origin, and are dangerous for health and for the environment. This is particularly the case for halogenated derivatives and dimethyl and diethyl sulphates.
• fatty dimethyl amines they generally come from the transformation of fatty acids [Harold A. Wittcoff et al., "Industrial Organic Chemicals” (2004), 419, Wiley-Interscience.], Which also involves reagents such as ammonia or hydrogen which are tricky to use and often require the presence of heavy metal catalysts such as cobalt or nickel.
• Glycine betaine naturally present in certain fruits, such as orange or lemon, cereals such as oats, barley or wheat or in beets, has recently emerged as an interesting alternative to traditional ways of achieving cationic surfactant structures [F. Nsimba Zakanda et al. "Thin Solid Films", (201 1), 520, 344-350]. This compound in fact carries a positively charged charge and makes it possible to transfer, under suitable conditions, this cationic character to the structure to which it is chemically bonded. Glycine betaine is extracted from beetroot molasses and represents about 27% of the weight.
• the international application published under the number WO 2005/121294 discloses novel compositions describing mixtures of alkyl hexosides or alkyl xylosides and glycine betaine esters or fatty amides that can be used in bactericidal, fungicidal or conservation.
• the international application published under number WO 2005/121252 discloses the use of glycine betaine derivatives in cold bituminous emulsions and mentions the preparation and glycine betaine esters or amides.
• the present invention relates to novel compositions which combine fatty esters of glycine betaine, esters of glycine betaine and alkyl polyglucosides which contain in particular structures of alkyl polyglucoside type carrying a cationic group introduced through a controlled grafting of glycine betaine .
• the subject of the invention is a composition
• anion X " is an anion selected from bromide ion, chloride ion, iodide ion, para-toluenesulfonate ion, methanesulfonate ion or trifluoromethanesulfonate ion; at least one of the radicals Z does not represent a hydrogen atom; formula (I) in which the radical R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms, and I) wherein m represents a number greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 5, or a mixture of compounds represented by said formula (I);
• composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention, by a mixture of compounds represented by said formula (I), is meant mainly a mixture of two or more compounds represented by the formulas (Ia), (Ib), (le), (Id) and (le):
• composition (Ci) as defined above further comprises for 100 mol%:
• radical R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; or a mixture of alcohols represented by said formula (II).
• composition (Ci) as defined above further comprises for 100 mol%:
• hydrobromic hydrochloric, hydroiodic, para-toluenesulphonic, methanesulphonic or trifluoromethanesulphonic acids.
• composition (Ci) as defined above further comprises for 100 mol%:
• radical R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; or a mixture of compounds represented by said formula (III).
• composition (Ci) which is the subject of the present invention, by a mixture of compounds represented by the aforementioned formula (III), one mainly designates a mixture of two or more compounds represented by formulas (IIIa), (IIIb), (IIIc), (IIId) and (Nie):
• the composition (Ci) as defined above further comprises, for 100 mol%, from 1 mol% to 5 mol%, or a compound of formula (I), or a mixture of compounds represented by said formula (I).
• composition (Ci) as defined above further comprises for 100 mol%:
• radical R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from one to six carbon atoms.
• the composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that, in the formulas (I), (II), (III) and (IV), the radical R 2 is linear and is selected from tetradecyl, hexadecyl, octadecyl, eicosyl or docosyl radicals.
• composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that, in formulas (VI) and (XI), the radical R 1 is the butyl radical.
• composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that, in the formulas (I), (IV), (V) and (VI), the ion X " represents the methanesulphonate anion and for which the acid of formula (IX) is methanesulphonic acid.
• composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that, in formulas (I) and (III), m is equal to 1.
• composition (Ci) as defined above is characterized in that, in formulas (I) and (III), m is greater than 1 and less than or equal to 2.5.
• composition (Ci) as defined above comprising, for 100 mol%:
• the subject of the invention is also a method for preparing a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that it comprises the following successive stages: A step a), during which 2-trimethylammonioacetate of formula (X):
• step a) of the process as defined above the alcohol of formula (I) is especially used in a stoichiometric excess of between 1.5 to 6 with respect to glycine betaine and more especially between 3 and 5.
• Step a) of the process as defined above is carried out at a temperature generally of between 100 ° C. and 150 ° C., more particularly between 120 ° C. and 140 ° C., while maintaining the pressure between 5 ⁇ 10 2 Pa. and 1.5 x 10 5 Pa.
• the neutralization agent is more particularly chosen from sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, or sodium hydrogencarbonate and the reaction between said mixture (Mi) obtained at step a) and said mixture (M 2 ) is carried out at a temperature between 40 ° C and 100 ° C, more particularly between 65 ° C and 95 ° C while maintaining the pressure between 3 x 10 2 Pa and 5 x 10 3 Pa for a period not exceeding twenty-four hours, generally between ten o'clock and twenty o'clock.
• Step c) of the process as defined above is generally carried out with an ethanolic solution of the acid formula (IX) in an effective amount. Said step is generally completed with a filtration phase to recover the filtered composition (Ci).
• compositions (Ci), as defined above as an emulsifying agent, for preparing emulsions intended for cleaning the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, or topical cosmetic emulsions for the care of skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes.
• cleaning the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes means any action intended to allow the removal of dirt on the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes of humans or animals.
• soiling on the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes of humans or animals include dust, dirt, sebaceous secretions, sweat, dandruff, dead cells, microorganisms or various chemical substances such as residues of make-up and skincare compositions, hair, scalp or mucous membranes.
• composition Ci in an effective amount of composition Ci, it is meant from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight of said composition (Ci) for 100% by mass of said cosmetic emulsion (E). .
• topical means that the emulsion (Ei) according to the invention is implemented by application to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application or indirect application, when for example the emulsion (Ei) according to the invention is incorporated in a support intended to be brought into contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc.).
• the topical emulsion (Ei) generally comprises chemical additives usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical formulations, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents , pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preserving agents, conditioners, deodorants, bleaching agents for the fading of the hair and the skin, the active principles intended to bring an action t and / or protective against the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents
• foaming surfactants and / or detergents optionally present in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention, mention may be made of foaming surfactants and / or cationic, amphoteric or nonionic detergents.
• foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants that may be included in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
• foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants which may be included in the topical emulsion (E-i) according to the invention, mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives.
• foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants that may be included in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of alkylpolyglycosides comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical, and comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octylpolyglucoside, decylpolyglucoside, undecylenylpolyglucoside, dodecylpolyglucoside, tetradecylpolyglucoside, hexadecylpolyglucoside, 1-12-dodecanediylpolyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil”; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides;
• the polymers, and more particularly the crosslinked copolymers, terpolymers and tetrapolymers comprising AMPS and macromers such as those described in the European patent applications published under the numbers EP 1 069 142 A1 and EP 1 339 789 A2, in the international patent application published under the number WO 201 1/030044 A1 and in the French patent application published under the number 2 910 899 A1.
• the polyelectrolytes, linear or branched or crosslinked polymers optionally present in the topical composition according to the invention can be selected from the products marketed under the names SIMULGEL TM EG, SIMULGEL TM EPG, SEPIGEL TM 305, SIMULGEL TM 600, SIMULGEL TM NS , SIMULGEL TM INS 100, SIMULGEL TM FL, SIMULGEL TM A, SIMULGEL TM SMS 88, SEPINOV TM EMT 10, SEPIPLUS TM 400, SEPIPLUS TM 265, SEPIPLUS TM S, SEPIMAX TM ZEN, ARISTOFLEX TM HMB, ARISTOFLEX TM VELVET, ARISTOFLEX TM AVIS, ARISTOFLEX TM AVS, NOVEMER TM EC-1, NOVEMER TM EC-2, FLOCARE TM AND 25, FLOCARE TM AND 75, FLOCARE TM AND 26, FLOCARE
• thickening and / or gelling agents that may be present in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as, for example, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.
• cationic emulsifying surfactants that may be present in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in the patent application WO 96/00719 and mainly those whose chain fatty acid comprises at least 16 carbon atoms, quaternary ammoniums, for example trimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride, behenyltrimonium methanesulphonate, trialkyl benzylammonium, for example benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chlorides.
• opacifying and / or pearling agents examples include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
• Examples of texturizing agents that may be present in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, for example lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.
• N-acyl derivatives of amino acids for example lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.
• deodorant agents which may be present in the topical emulsion (E 1 according to the invention include, for example, alkali silicates, zinc salts, for instance zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate or zinc chloride, zinc lactate, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, caprylate glycerol, polyglycerol caprate; the 1, 2 decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; Triclosan TM; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate
• Examples of active principles that may be present in the topical emulsion (Ei) according to the invention include vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate, for example ), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (for example ascorbyl glucoside) and its esters (for example tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, for example ⁇ -undecylenoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE TM MSH, SEPICALM TM VG, the mono ester and / or the glycerol diester of ⁇ -undecylenoyl phenylalanine, the ester-undecylenoyl phenylalanine erythritol monoest
• sunscreens possibly present in the topical emulsion (E-i) according to the invention, mention may be made of all those appearing in the cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII.
• the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -propoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, the methyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, the butyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p
• reaction mixture M-1 of the following composition (in molar percentages) are obtained:
• the mass spectrum of the compound of formula (VI) is achieved using a MS / MS ZabSpec TOF Micromass® high resolution mass spectrometer.
• the ionization mode is the positive electrospray (SM-ESI +), the ion acceleration voltage is 4 kV and the source temperature is 60 ° C.
• the 1 H and 13 C NMR spectra of the compound of formula (VI) were respectively recorded at 400.13 MHz and 100.61 MHz on a Brucker ARX 400 spectrometer per pulse and Fourier transform (ENSCR) in 5 mm tubes. of diameter. The chemical shifts are expressed in parts per million (ppm).
• the mixture thus obtained is again placed under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. and 95 ° C. After 13 hours of reaction, the mixture is cooled to about 50 ° C, the whole is returned to atmospheric pressure and 3.5 liters of an ethanol solution comprising 472 g of AMS added. After filtration of the mixture obtained on Buchner to remove the residual salts, the filtrate is cooled to room temperature. The formation of a new precipitate is then observed which is removed by filtration on Buchner. The new filtrate is evaporated under reduced pressure to give a yellow paste.
• composition (Ci) comprising in molar percentages:
• the 1 H NMR spectra were respectively recorded at 400.13 MHz on a Brucker ARX 400 spectrometer per pulse and Fourier transform (ENSCR) in 5 mm diameter tubes. The chemical shifts are expressed in parts per million (ppm).
• the aqueous phase is an aliquot of a demineralized water solution whose pH is previously adjusted to 5.5 by means of controlled additions of acetic acid and sodium acetate.
• the fatty phase (20 g of a caprylic / capric type triglyceride mixture marketed by the Dubois company under the name Dub MCT TM 5545) and the aqueous phase (171 g) are previously separately brought to 80 ° C.
• Example 4 Preparation of an Emulsion of Interest for the Cosmetic Domain from a Composition According to the Invention
• phase B is added to phase A at a temperature of 80 ° C., with stirring with a turbine of the rotor / stator type, and then cooled with moderate stirring with a mechanical stirrer equipped with a stirring device of the following type anchor at a speed of 80 rounds / minute.
• Phase C is then added under the same stirring conditions at a temperature of 40 ° C.
• Phase A is added to phase B at 80 ° C. with stirring with a rotor / stator turbine. The resulting mixture is then cooled to a temperature of 40 ° C with moderate stirring using a mechanical stirrer with an anchor-type mobile at a speed of 80 rpm. Phase C is then added at 40 ° C, then phase D is then added at 40 ° C.
• Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05%
• Cetearyl Alcohol 1, 5%
• MONTANOV TM 14 is a mixture of myristyl alcohol and myristyl polyglucosides sold by the company SEPPIC as an emulsifying agent.
• DUB TM MUG is the glycerol undecylenate marketed by the company STEARINERI E DUBOIS.
• DUB TM ISI P is isopropyl isostearate marketed by the company STEARI NERIE DUBOIS.
• DERMOFEEL TOCO 70 TM is a blend of tocopherols and Helianthus Annus seed oil used as an antioxidant and marketed by Dr. Straetmans.
• DERMOSOFT TM 700 B (INCI name: Levulinic acid / Sodium levulinate / glycerine and water)
• GEOGARD TM 221 is a mixture of dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol used as a preservative and marketed by LONZA.
• AQUAXYL TM (INCI name: Xylitylglucoside & Anhydroxylitol & Xylitol) is a moisturizing and restruturizing composition of the epidermis marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• AVICEL TM PC 61 1 is microcrystalline cellulose marketed by the company FMC.
• SEPI LI FT TM DPHP is DiPalmitoyIHydroxyProline marketed by the company SEPPIC as active ingredient anti-wrinkle.
• MICROPEARL TM M 305 is a silky, water-dispersible powder based on a cross-linked methyl methacrylate copolymer.
• LANOL TM 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICIDE TM HB which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SEPICIDE TM Cl imidazolidine urea
• SEPPIC preservative marketed by the company SEPPIC.
• SIMULSOL TM 165 is a mixture of PEG-100 Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate.
• SEPICAP TM MP (INCI name: sodium cocoyl amino acids / potassium dimethicone copolyol panthenyl phosphate.
• MONTANOV TM 82 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco glucoside) is a nonionic emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.
• MONTANOV TM L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohol (and) C12-20 Glucoside) is a nonionic emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.
• SIMULGEL TM INS100 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer Isohexadecane Polysorbate 60) is a thickening agent marketed by the company SEPPIC.

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