EP3073986A1

EP3073986A1 - Cosmetic formulation

Info

Publication number: EP3073986A1
Application number: EP14828292.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Gianpaolo PIZZOLI
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2013-11-27
Filing date: 2014-11-27
Publication date: 2016-10-05
Also published as: ITBS20130177A1; WO2015079406A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising sodium silicate, an aluminium salt, a magnesium salt and at least one carboxylic acid C2-C4 optionally substituted to form silicic acid at least from said silicate. The invention further relates to a kit comprising such a formulation, and a method for manufacturing a cosmetic formulation.

Description

DESCRIPTION

"Cosmetic formulation"

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation for use in the reduction of wrinkles and other skin imperfections.

[0002] The onset of wrinkles is one of the most likely consequences of ageing. The scope of the phenomenon can sometimes be so violent as to require surgical cosmetic operations (e.g. lifting) or in any case invasive interventions (subcutaneous injections of so-called filler) , especially when the face - hard to conceal- is affected .

[0003] In less severe circumstances, and in any case in order to prevent or delay the formation of skin wrinkles, the use of creams or lotions is known, of which, given the anything but limited price, does not prove satisfactory from many points of view.

[0004] In particular, in addition to an extremely limited effectiveness, the creams often leave surface residues on the skin, thereby accentuating the imperfections which they instead intend to reduce.

[0005] The present invention lies within the above context, providing a cosmetic formulation of a topical and highly effective type, designed to act quickly right from the first skin applications, and to generate in the user's skin a series of stimulations which spontaneously achieve a botulin-like effect of filling hollows and reducing wrinkles and other skin imperfections, especially on the skin of the face.

[0006] Such objective is achieved by a cosmetic formulation (preferably for topical use) comprising sodium silicate, an aluminium salt, a magnesium salt and at least one carboxylic acid C2-C4 optionally substituted to form silicic acid at least from said silicate.

[0007] Innovatively, it has in fact been seen that the sodium silicate is the basic active principle of the formulation; however, in a totally unexpected manner, in order to perform this action the sodium silicate must be helped by the aluminium salt and magnesium salt which, according to a particularly advantageous embodiment, are or comprise a magnesium-aluminium silicate.

[0008] Without wishing to give a scientific explanation of the above formulation, the present inventors believe that the effectiveness of the latter is to be found in a synergistic effect of the relative active principles: sodium silicate causes a tightening effect by virtue of its crystals, substantially invisible to the naked eye, which are deposited on the skin surface.

[0009] In addition, the magnesium and aluminium (or aluminium-magnesium) salts present in the formulation alter the osmotic balance between the outside and the inside of the epidermis in that, once the formulation has been applied and has preferably dried, said salts draw the fluids inside the skin outwardlv - and thus to the surface.

[0010] These two effects, which are added to the concomitant muscle relaxant action of the magnesium salt cause a swelling effect of the skin, which one might define "botulin-like" , which reduces and in some circumstances eliminates the wrinkles of the skin visible on the surface.

[0011] Another aspect . to consider is that the sodium silicate is an alkaline substance, so that its presence in the formulation implies an overall increase in pH, which might, for example, exceed pH 12, clearly incompatible with skin contact.

[0012] In order to make the product tolerable, it must therefore be neutralised in a range of pH values from 9.00 to 9.80, preferably pH 9.30 to 9.50.

[0013] According to the invention, such neutralisation occurs thank to the carboxylic acid C2-C4, which generates at least the sodium salt of that acid and silicic acid. Merely by way of example, since a particularly advantageous embodiment provides that the carboxylic acid is selected from hydroxy-acetic acid, hydroxy-propanoic acid and mixtures thereof, the above reaction will provide silicic acid and hydroxy-acetate and/or hydroxy-sodium propanoate.

[0014] These two variants have proved to be particularly advantageous in that the hydroxy-acetic acid makes the formulation more fluid, therefore easier to apply to the skin. In addition, the hydroxy-sodium propanoate is an excellent skin emollient.

[0015] In more general terms, one embodiment provides that the carboxylic acid is chosen from the group consisting in (hydroxy-) acetic acid, (hydroxy- ) propanoic acid, (hydroxy- ) butanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0016] As regards the percentages of the aforesaid components, it should be noted that except where otherwise specified, the percentage values indicated in this description and in the claims are understood to be percentage values in weight (% wt) of a given component compared to the total weight of the cosmetic formulation.

[0017] According to one embodiment, the sodium silicate only or sodium and aluminium-magnesium silicate are globally present in a percentage of not less than about 2-3% wt. For example, the sodium silicate may be present in a percentage at least equal to 4% wt, while the aluminium-magnesium silicate may be present in a percentage of 0.30% wt or more. [0018] According to a further embodiment, the carboxylic acid may be present in deficit equal to or greater than about 10% wt compared to the aforesaid silicate, or compared to the plurality thereof .

[0019] According to different embodiments, which may be implemented independently of each other, the sodium silicate could be present in a percentage of 2-10%wt, the magnesium aluminium silicate could be present in a percentage of 0.1-3%wt, and/or the carboxylic acid could be present in a percentage of 1.5- 12%wt.

[0020] According to a possible variant, the cosmetic formulation could further comprise hydrolised collagen and/or hydrolised elastin in a total percentage of 0.2%wt or more, for example 0.2-4%wt. According to one embodiment, the hydrolysed collagen and elastin are present in substantially equal amounts, specifically in a percentage of approximately 0.15% wt each.

[0021] According to one particularly advantageous variant, the present formulation further comprises a plasticising agent to form a film on the skin containing at least the silicic acid (and optionally the non-transformed silicate) , said agent being present for example in a percentage of between 8-15% wt . Preferably, the plasticising agent may comprise monopropylene glycol.

[0022] The plasticising agent permits the creation of a film containing silicic acid and the salts discussed, and in this variant represents a critical variable: too high a concentration of this component makes the product ineffective inasmuch as too soft, while too low a dosage makes the film hard but subject to the formation of white crystalline residues on the skin.

[0023] According to a further advantageous variant, the above formulation is an emulsion or suspension in water with a pH in the range of 9.00-9.80, e.g. pH 9.30 -9.50.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the formulation comprises in addition a moisturising product.

[0025] In fact, for certain types of extremely dry skin, the application of the formulation is accompanied by an uncomfortable tightening feeling, hard to attenuate.

[0026] For example, the moisturising product could be present in a maximum amount of 20% in weight of the total formulation, more specifically in a maximum amount of 15% in weight.

[0027] According to one variant, the moisturising product may comprise the following components, expressed in percentages in weight: glyceryl stearate: 1-5%, ceteareth-11 : 5-10%, cetearyl alcohol 1-5%, octyl palmitate 10-25%, cetyl palmitate 1-5%, ceteareth-20 , 1- 5% glycerine 1-5%, water equal to or less than 50%.

[0028] According to an advantageous variant, the formulation may further comprise pigmenting substances in a percentage of 0.9- 8% in weight.

[0029] For example, such pigmenting substances could comprise titanium oxide and one or more iron oxides. Advantageously, various black, red and yellow iron oxides could be used to generate different shades, once the above formulation has been applied.

[0030] According to possible variants, black could be obtained with the product CI 77499, red with the product CI 77491, and/or yellow with the product CI 77492.

[0031] Preferably, the pigmenting substances could comprise titanium dioxide in a percentage of approximately 0.5 -5% in weight and one or more iron oxides for the remaining percentage .

[0032] In example 2 below some possible formulations of the aforementioned pigmenting substances are reported.

[0033] The present invention further relates to a kit comprising the following products:

[0034] a) a de-greasing product of a skin area;

[0035] b) optionally a moisturising product of said de- greased skin area; and

[0036] c) a cosmetic formulation according to any of the previous embodiments, to apply to the de-greased and optionally moisturised skin.

[0037] In fact, a complete treatment might consist of a de- greasing product of the skin, optionally a pre-treatment moisturising product or cream (such as a day cream, a product with a high content of collagen, elastin and vitamin E) , and the formulation discussed above.

[0038] The de-greasing product is needed since on a face which has not been cleaned for hours the formulation is not in a position to carry out its anti-wrinkle action effectively. In fact, oily substances oppose the effectiveness of the formulation, in that they act negatively on the formation of a stable crystalline film.

[0039] The moisturising product or cream, preferably non- greasy, may be appropriate for certain types of dry skin, on which the formulation could leave crystalline residues. When the moisturising product is used, it is preferable that the latter is made to penetrate into the skin without leaving visible surface residues.

[0040] For example, the moisturising product could be of the aforesaid type, without being premixed with the formulation .

[0041] In a further embodiment of the kit, a prolonged action moisturiser to moisturise and nourish the skin and/or as a complement to the action of the above formulation, a long-term nourishing serum having a filler action could be used. For example, such filler could contain hyaluronic acid fillers and polypeptides. [0042] The aforesaid objective is also achieved by means of a method to obtain a cosmetic formulation according to any of the previous embodiments, comprising in sequence the steps of:

[0043] i) providing demineralised water at the relative boiling temperature;

[0044] ii) adding magnesium aluminium silicate to the water of step i) obtaining an aqueous solution;

[0045] iii) adding monopropylene glycol to the aqueous solution obtaining a monopropylene mixture;

[0046] iv) while stirring, adding sodium silicate to the monopropylene mixture; and

[0047] v) adding hydroxy-acetic acid, hydroxy-propanoic acid or mixtures thereof to the solution containing the sodium silicate, adjusting the pH to approximately 9.00- 9.80, for example 9.30 - 9.50.

[0048] Such method has proved particularly suitable for the formulation described above. Consequently, even where not expressly stated, such method comprises all the preferred or advantageous features (e.g. quantitative) inferred from the above description.

[0049] The purpose of the present invention will now be illustrated on the basis of several non-limiting examples.

[0050] Example 1: Preparation of the cosmetic formulation. [0051] In a sufficiently large container, 414.25 grams of demineralised water are heated up to boiling point. When the water has reached boiling point, 1.75 grams of magnesium aluminium silicate are added (for example in the form of the commercial product Veegum ® HV, manufactured by the company R.T. Vanderbilt Company, Inc.) and blended with a mixer at 1200 rpm for about 40 minutes .

[0052] Immediately afterwards about 1.5 grams of xanthan gum (80 mesh) are added as viscosing agent, and the mixture is blended for a further 30 minutes.

[0053] Optionally, in these first steps of the hot processing one or more pigmenting substances in pulverized or micronised form may be added, with a rapid mixing.

[0054] The mixture is allowed to cool to a temperature of about 50°C and, very slowly, 75 grams of pharmaceutical grade mono-propylene glycol are added. After this addition, the mixture is shaken at 1200 rpm for about five minutes.

[0055] In the processing sequence it is important to add the mono-propylene glycol before the sodium silicate and for the temperatures to be high enough to improve the solubility of substances such as the silicates, normally not very soluble or prone to crystallisation at low temperatures .

[0056] A possible crystallisation of the silicates during mixing would be disadvantageous from a plurality of points of view. In fact, concentration gradients would occur in the mixture and white residues would be formed which would deposit directly on the skin once the product is applied.

[0057] Again at a temperature in the range of 45°C-50°C, 73.25 grams of sodium silicate in solution at 30% are incorporated. The addition of this product must be performed slowly, and under constant fast stirring, e.g. at about 1200 rpm.

[0058] Subsequently, 17.5 grams of 70% glycolic acid are added, again while stirring at 1200 rpm, and stirring is continued for about a further 10 minutes.

[0059] 5 grams of a preservative, preferably Euxyl PE9010 (produced by Schulke & Mayr Gmbh) are then added while stirring at 1200 rpm for about 1 minute to be sure that it is distributed evenly throughout the mixture obtained. The pH is checked and adjusted_^ to a value of about 9.30- 9.50.

[0060] Lastly, hydrolysed collagen and hydrolyzed elastin are incorporated in a quantity of about 1 gram each.

[0061] Examples 2-4: Preparation of the cosmetic formulation with pigmenting substances. [0062] The procedure of example 1 is repeated, using pigmenting substances in the ratios indicated in the following tables 1-3.

Table 1

Table 2

Table 3

Pigmenting Colour %wt CTFA name substances

CI 77891 white 4.02 Titanium dioxide

CI 77492 red 0.25 Iron oxide

CI 77491 yellow 0.58 Iron oxide

CI 77499 black 0.12 Iron oxide [0063] Innovatively, the cosmetic formulation of the present invention makes it possible to achieve the objectives mentioned initially.

[0064] In particular, the contemporary presence of one or more silicic salts and of at least one carboxylic acid, in addition to neutralising the pH to a value suitable for use on the skin, also produces silicic acid which has the property of stimulating the production of collagen in the subcutaneous tissues.

[0065] In addition, the magnesium and aluminium salts act as coadjuvants during the botulin-like function discussed above .

[0066] Advantageously, the presence of moderate quantities of PEG-7 glyceryl-coccoate, which is normally a water- soluble surfactant with oily-like characteristics, gives the film a better wettability and spreadability.

[0067] Advantageously, the high silicate content in the above formulation is justified by the introduction of the organic acid which causes by reaction the formation of silicic acid.

[0068] Advantageously, the cosmetic formulation of the present invention does not require special equipment for its preparation.

[0069] Advantageously, the components described above act together in a synergistic way, so as to increase the curative effect of the formulation.

[0070] Advantageously, the cosmetic formulation of the present invention has been designed to allow the direct application of make-up without any cosmetic defect or adhesion .

[0071] A person skilled in the art may make variations to the embodiments of the cosmetic formulation, the kit and the method described above so as to satisfy specific requirements, replacing elements with others functionally equivalent .

[0072] Such variants are also contained within the scope of protection as defined by the following claims.

[0073] In addition, each variant described as belonging to a possible embodiment may be realised independently of the other embodiments described.

Claims

1. Cosmetic formulation comprising sodium silicate, an aluminium salt, a magnesium salt and at least one carboxylic acid C2-C4 optionally substituted to form silicic acid at least from said silicate.

2. Formulation according to claim 1, wherein the carboxylic acid is chosen from the group consisting in (hydroxy-) acetic acid, (hydroxy-) propanoic acid, (hydroxy-) butanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

3. Formulation according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aluminium salt and the magnesium salt are or comprise a magnesium aluminium silicate.

4. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, wherein said silicates are globally present in a percentage of not less than approximately 2-3%wt, and wherein the carboxylic acid is present in a deficit of 10%wt or more compared to said silicates.

5. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, wherein the sodium silicate is present in a percentage of 2-10%wt, the magnesium aluminium silicate is present in a percentage of 0.1-3%wt, and wherein the carboxylic acid is present in a percentage of 1.5- 12%wt.

6. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, comprising a plasticising agent to form a film containing the silicic acid on the skin, said plasticising agent comprising monopropylene glycol in a percentage of 8- 15%wt .

7. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, further comprising hydrolised collagen and/or hydrolised elastin in a total percentage of 0.2%wt or more, for example 0.2-4%wt.

8. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, characterised in that it is an emulsion in water at a pH in the range of 9.00 -9.80, for example pH 9.30 -9.50.

9. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, comprising in addition a moisturising product comprising the following components, expressed in percentage in weight: glyceryl stearate: 1-5%, ceteareth-11 : 5-10%, cetearyl alcohol 1-5%, octyl palmitate 10-25%, cetyl palmitate 1-5%, ceteareth-20 , 1-5% glycerine 1-5%, water equal to or less than 50%.

10. Formulation according to the previous claim, wherein the moisturising product is present in a maximum amount of 20% in weight of the total formulation, preferably in a maximum amount of 15% in weight.

11. Formulation according to any of the previous claims, further comprising pigmenting substances in a percentage of 0.9-8% in weight, said substances comprising titanium dioxide in a percentage of approximately 0.5-5% in weight and one or more of iron oxides for the remaining percentage.

12. Topical use of the cosmetic formulation according to any of the previous claims for the reduction of wrinkles and other skin imperfections.

13. Method of making a cosmetic formulation according to any of the claims 1-11 comprising, in sequence, the steps of:

i) providing demineralised water at the relative boiling temperature ;

ii) adding magnesium aluminium silicate to the water of step i) obtaining an aqueous solution;

iii) adding monopropylene glycol to the^' aqueous solution obtaining a monopropylene mixture;

iv) while stirring, adding sodium silicate to the monopropylene mixture; and

v) adding hydroxy-acetic acid, hydroxy-propanoic acid or mixtures thereof to the solution containing the sodium silicate, adjusting the pH to approximately 9.00- 9.80, for example 9.30 - 9.50.

14. Kit comprising the following products:

- a de-greasing product of a skin area;

- optionally a moisturising product of said de-greased skin area; and

- a cosmetic formulation according to any of the claims 1-11, to apply to the de-greased and optionally moisturised skin .