EP2958542A1

EP2958542A1 - Sunscreen comprising dialkyl ether for use on wet skin

Info

Publication number: EP2958542A1
Application number: EP14700378.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Miriam Belser; Svenja Lena Möllgaard; Sebastian Otto; Nicole JOHNS
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2013-02-25
Filing date: 2014-01-13
Publication date: 2015-12-30
Also published as: DE102013203000A1; WO2014127924A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing: a) octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer with the CAS number 182066-69-8) and b) at least one akoxy alkane (dialkyl ether).

Description

description

Sunscreens with dialkyl ethers for use on wet skin

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: Octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer having the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) and at least one alkoxyalkane (dialkyl ether).

The trend away from the noble paleness to the "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years, to achieve this, people are putting their skin on the skin

Solar radiation, as this causes a pigmentation in the sense of melanin formation. However, the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to the acute injury (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs due to excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive action of the UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and leads to premature skin aging.

To protect the skin, therefore, a number of sunscreen filter substances have been developed which can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are in the form of positive lists in most industrialized countries such as Appendix 7 of the

Cosmetics Regulation summarized.

However, the variety of commercially available sunscreens must not obscure the fact that these prior art formulations have a number of disadvantages.

Sunscreens are often used in conjunction with water sports activities (swimming, swimming, surfing, diving, etc.). The problem arises that the sunscreen, if the skin is still wet or wet, difficult on the same can be applied. As a rule, the so-called "whitening effect" occurs, in which parts of the preparation precipitate when applied or rubbed on the skin and no longer on the skin, forming an even protective film is no longer possible This kind of destroyed cosmetic system also leads to a reduced UV protection, since the UV filters can no longer distribute themselves evenly on the skin and can move into it.This phenomenon occurs especially in sunscreen oils and alcoholic solutions, because of the Applying to the wet skin first requires a homogeneous combination with the water on the skin, then this homogeneous mixture must spread evenly over the skin.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the deficiency of the prior art and to develop a cosmetic preparation, in particular a sunscreen, that can be easily and stably applied to moist or wet skin and effectively protect it from the damage of the UV. Light protects without becoming "white".

The object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic preparation comprising a) octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer having the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) and

b) at least one alkoxyalkane (dialkyl ether).

Octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: Octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer with CAS number 1 182066-69-8) is available, for example, under the trade name Cosmosurf CE-100 from Surfa Tech Corporation.

Although the state of the art knows WO 2012/009405 and US 2012/0014882, these documents could not point the way to the present invention.

In the context of the present disclosure, preparation always means the preparation according to the invention, unless otherwise stated.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more UV filters.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic sunscreen. It is inventively preferred if the preparation contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and / or salts thereof; Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol); 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidenecamphor;

ethylhexyl salicylate; Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoyl ester; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Hexyl 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate; homomenthyl; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer; Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone); 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine; 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the (CAS No 288254-16-0); 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino] (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine ; Merocyanines; piperazine derivatives (especially compound 1 of DE 10 2007 005334.9); titanium dioxide; zinc oxide.

Embodiments of the present invention which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation is free of 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) -camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone).

With regard to the use concentrations of the UV filters, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains UV filters in the total amount of from 10 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, it is preferable if the preparation contains UV filters in the total amount of 12 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if, as alkoxyalkane (dialkyl ether)

Dicaprylyl ether is used. It is inventively preferred if the preparation alkoxyalkane (dialkyl ethers) in the total amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of

Preparation, and particularly preferred, when the preparation Alkoxyalkan

(Dialkyl ethers) in the total amount of 2 to 4% by weight, based on the

Total weight of the preparation contains.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer having the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) in the total amount of 4 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, contains.

Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer having the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) in the total amount of 8 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, contains.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is an alcoholic solution.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation is an ethanolic solution.

Moreover, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains one or more gel formers. It can according to the composition of the

Preparation all known gel formers are used. Cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl cellulose, are particularly preferred according to the invention.

Hydroxymethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose.

According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more film formers. Film formers for the purposes of the present invention are substances of different composition, which are characterized by the following property: If a film former is dissolved in water or other suitable solvents and the solution is then applied to the skin, it forms a film after the solvent has evaporated which essentially has a protective function.

It is particularly advantageous to use the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

to choose. Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 in the GAF Chemicals Cooperation.

Also advantageous are other polymeric film formers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, sold under the tradename Flexan 130 at National Starch and Chemical Corp. and / or polyisobutene, available from Rewo under the tradename Rewopal PIB1000. Other suitable polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols. Also advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil Dimerdilinoleat (CAS 646054-62-8, INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate), which can be purchased from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast DA-H or PPG-3 Benzylethermyristat ( CAS 403517-45-3), which can be obtained under the trade name Crodamol STS from Croda Chemicals.

Particularly advantageous is acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer (BDF film 79, trade name Dermacryl 79 from Akzo Nobel).

In addition, it is according to the invention advantage if the water content of the

Preparation is less than 4.5 wt .-% is.

The oil phase of the preparation according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. Also advantageous according to the invention are z. As natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate,

Octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodecyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as, for. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously chosen from the group of dialkyl carbonates, it is advantageous, e.g. Dicaprylyicarbonate available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is also advantageous to use the oil component or components from the group of isoparaffins,

Isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, capriclic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Ci ₂ -13-alkyl lactate, D1-C 12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide , It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous Olkomponenten are also z. Butyloctyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from the company CP Hall), tridecyl salicylate

(which is available under the trade name Cosmacol ESI from the company Sasol), C12- C15 alkyl salicylate (available under the tradename Dermol NS from Alzo), hexadecyl benzoate and butyloctyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention comprises one or more active compounds selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, β-alanine and / or licochalcone A.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those of low C number, such as isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably

Propylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, hexane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, decane-1,2-diol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more perfume substances.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention preferably contains one or more perfume substances selected from the group consisting of 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, adipic diester, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-methylionone, amyl C butylphenylmethylpropionalcinnamal, amylsalicylate, amylcinnamylalcohol, anisalcohol, benzoin, benzylalcohol, benzylbenzoate, benzylcinnamate, benzylsalicylate, bergamot, bitter orange oil, butylphenylmethylpropioal, cardamom oil , Cedrol, Cinnamal,

Cinnamyl alcohol, citronellylmethyl crotonate, citron oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, d-limonene, ethyllinalool, eugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, farnesol, guaiac wood oil, hexyl cinnamal, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehydes, lavender oil, lemone oil, linayl acetate, tangerine oil, menthyl PCA, methylheptenone, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol,

Tonkabohnenol, triethylcitrate and / or vanillin, limonene [5989-27-5], citral, linalool [78-70- 6], alpha-isomethylionone [1335-46-2], geraniol [106-24-1], citronellol [106-22-9], [24851-98-7], [18479-58-8], [54464 -57-2], [80-54-6], [1222-05,5], [32388-55-9], [105-95-3], [31906-04- 4], [8008-57 -9], [32210-23-4], [120-57-0], [1-15-95-7], [101 -86-0], [140-1 1-4], [6259-76 -3] and [127-51 -5].

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used in three

Embodiments are presented:

Thus, in the first of these embodiments, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is in the form of a pump spray. In such a case, all common pump spray applicators known for cosmetics (in particular for sprayable sunscreens) can be used.

The second of these advantageous embodiments is characterized in that the preparation is in the form of an aerosol spray.

In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains as propellant propane, n-butane and / or isobutane. According to the invention are preferred

Mixtures of these gases.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention is preferably presented in such a propellant gas can containing the cosmetic preparation.

It is inventively preferred if the can is an aluminum can, which is coated on the inside with a protective lacquer.

In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the protective lacquer a

Epoxyphenollack, a polyamide-imide varnish or a powder coating is.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the valve of the propellant gas can in the spray head contains a ball valve which allows a 360 ° application. An example of this is Ariane ball valves from Aptar.

According to the invention, the conical bore may advantageously be 1x 0.32 mm or 1 × 0.44 mm or 1 × 0.5 mm.

In addition, such propellant cans according to the invention advantageously characterized in that is used as a spray head eg Cindy Lindal. The third of these advantageous embodiments is characterized in that the preparation is in the form of a so-called bag-on-valve spray. In such a case, all known for the cosmetics (especially for sprayable sunscreen) known bag-on-valve applicators can be used.

Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

The batch consists of 65% bulk and 35% propellant gas (60% butane + 20% isobutane + 20% propane, pressure rating 2.7 bar)

The ratio Bulk: Propellant may also be 60:40 or 70:30 or 75:25 or 80:20 or 85:15 or 90:10 or 95: 5.

Claims

claims

1 . Contains cosmetic preparation

a) Octyldodecyl citrate polyester (INCI: Octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer with the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) and

b) at least one alkoxyalkane (dialkyl ether).

2. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the

Preparation contains one or more UV filters.

3. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and / or salts thereof; Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts; 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts; 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid salts; 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid salts; 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol); 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol; 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 3-benzylidene camphor; ethylhexyl salicylate; Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure; 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate; 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 4-Methoxybenzalmalon-säuredi (2-ethylhexyl) ester; 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; Isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester; homomenthyl; 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate; dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate; 3- (4- (2,2-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer;

Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone); 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine; 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine with the CAS No. 288254-16-0); 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone); 2, 4, 6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1, 3,5- triazine; merocyanines; piperazine derivatives; titanium dioxide; zinc oxide.

4. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains as Alkoxyalkan (dialkyl ethers) Dicaprylyiether.

5. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains UV filters in the total amount of 10 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation Alkoxyalkan (dialkyl ethers) in the

Total amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

7. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation Octyldodecylcitratpolyester (INCI:

Octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer having the CAS number 1 182066-69-8) in the total amount of 4 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation contains.

8. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free of 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone).

9. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is an alcoholic solution.

10. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is an ethanolic solution.

1 1. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more gel formers.

12. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more cellulose derivatives as gel formers.

13. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more film formers.

14. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more perfumes.

15. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content of the preparation is less than 4.5 wt .-%.

16. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is in the form of a pump spray.

17. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized

in that the preparation is in the form of an aerosol spray.

18. A cosmetic preparation according to claim 17, characterized in that the preparation contains as propellant propane, n-butane and / or isobutane.

19. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the preparation is in the form of a bag-on-valve-spray.