EP2900335B1 - Verfahren zum schutz der farbe eines textilmaterials mit einer öl-in-wasser-emulsion mit einem gemisch aus alkylpolyglycosid und fettalkohol und einem assoziativen nicht-ionischen polyurethan-polyether - Google Patents
Verfahren zum schutz der farbe eines textilmaterials mit einer öl-in-wasser-emulsion mit einem gemisch aus alkylpolyglycosid und fettalkohol und einem assoziativen nicht-ionischen polyurethan-polyether Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2900335B1 EP2900335B1 EP13756376.3A EP13756376A EP2900335B1 EP 2900335 B1 EP2900335 B1 EP 2900335B1 EP 13756376 A EP13756376 A EP 13756376A EP 2900335 B1 EP2900335 B1 EP 2900335B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- alcohol
- process according
- oil
- glucoside
- mixture
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- OPEHDFRKFVXKNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosyl propanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC OPEHDFRKFVXKNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001282 iso-butane Substances 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 229960004488 linolenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940060184 oil ingredients Drugs 0.000 description 1
- JRZJOMJEPLMPRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N olefin Natural products CCCCCCCC=C JRZJOMJEPLMPRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003605 opacifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011368 organic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012168 ouricury wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002942 palmitic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pent‐4‐en‐2‐one Natural products CC(=O)CC=C PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010451 perlite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019362 perlite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003208 petroleum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003209 petroleum derivative Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940075999 phytosterol ester Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920006122 polyamide resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001195 polyisoprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002959 polymer blend Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001343 polytetrafluoroethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004810 polytetrafluoroethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000166 polytrimethylene carbonate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004800 polyvinyl chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000915 polyvinyl chloride Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000010491 poppyseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001294 propane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RYVMUASDIZQXAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyranoside Natural products O1C2(OCC(C)C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C2)C(C)C(C2(CCC3C4(C)CC5O)C)C1CC2C3CC=C4CC5OC(C(C1O)O)OC(CO)C1OC(C1OC2C(C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C(O)C(CO)O2)O)OC(CO)C(O)C1OC1OCC(O)C(O)C1O RYVMUASDIZQXAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000010493 quinoa oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004170 rice bran wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019384 rice bran wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940100486 rice starch Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012176 shellac wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005573 silicon-containing polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004088 simulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017557 sodium bicarbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000030 sodium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940070720 stearalkonium Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M stearalkonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940057981 stearalkonium chloride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000005502 stearalkonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ISXSCDLOGDJUNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tert-butyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)OC(=O)C=C ISXSCDLOGDJUNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 229940061605 tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J tetrasodium;(2s)-2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC[C@@H](C([O-])=O)N(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 238000002076 thermal analysis method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002803 thermoplastic polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichlorofluoromethane Chemical compound FC(Cl)(Cl)Cl CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001069 triethyl citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethyl citrate Natural products CCOC(=O)C(O)(C(=O)OCC)C(=O)OCC VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013769 triethyl citrate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PGRZLADNCDNGTC-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-propyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C PGRZLADNCDNGTC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(14-methylpentadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris-decyl benzene-1,2,4-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)=C1 SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea group Chemical group NC(=O)N XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002966 varnish Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001567 vinyl ester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940100445 wheat starch Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010457 zeolite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011478 zinc gluconate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011670 zinc gluconate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000306 zinc gluconate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940100142 zinc pidolate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L zinc;(2s)-5-oxopyrrolidine-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1.[O-]C(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 OWVLYQRCCIEOPF-QHTZZOMLSA-L 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
- D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
- D06P1/5285—Polyurethanes; Polyurea; Polyguanides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/60—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing polyethers
- D06P1/607—Nitrogen-containing polyethers or their quaternary derivatives
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/64—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds without sulfate or sulfonate groups
- D06P1/651—Compounds without nitrogen
- D06P1/65106—Oxygen-containing compounds
- D06P1/65118—Compounds containing hydroxyl groups
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
- D06P5/04—After-treatment with organic compounds
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/25—Resistance to light or sun, i.e. protection of the textile itself as well as UV shielding materials or treatment compositions therefor; Anti-yellowing treatments
Definitions
- a first subject of the present invention is thus a process for protecting the colour of a coloured textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of the said textile, this emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
- a second subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent.
- antiperspirant composition Many different types have been described in the literature and have appeared on the market in forms such as gels, sticks, creams, roll-ons or aerosols.
- aluminium salts or complexes as antiperspirant active agents.
- These active agents are the ones most commonly used as antiperspirant active agents.
- the principle of action of these active agents is considered to be the formation of a gel in the sweat duct. This gel creates a plug that partially blocks the sweat pores. The flow of sweat is thus reduced.
- These aluminium salts also have intrinsic efficacy since they are antibacterial agents. They thus also play a direct role on the deodorant efficacy by reducing the number of bacteria responsible for the degradation of sweat.
- the antiperspirant products currently on the market have a tendency, when applied to the armpits, to come into contact with items of clothing, which are generally dyed, and to fade their original colour after machine washing and ironing.
- Antiperspirant-product consumers are thus in need of a suitable formulation, which may contain antiperspirant active agents and which makes it possible to preserve the colour of coloured textiles after multiple applications to the surface of the skin and multiple machine washing and ironing.
- Patent application WO 01/78673 discloses a method for reducing or eliminating garment staining induced by an antiperspirant composition based on aluminium salt or complex, wherein among others an oil-in-water emulsion is applied onto the surface of the garment.
- Patent applications WO 92/06778 , WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610 disclose emulsifying systems consisting of mixtures of alkylpolyglucosides and of fatty alcohols, for obtaining oil-in-water emulsions which may contain a very wide range of active agents and especially deodorant active agents.
- These glucolipid emulsifying agents have the advantage of being compatible in all types of fatty phase and also in strongly acidic aqueous media in particular comprising antiperspirant salts. They make it possible to obtain emulsions in a wide texture range, from richness to evanescence with variable, fluid or creamy consistencies.
- Antiperspirant formulations of the oil-in-water emulsion type are also known from patent EP 1 550 435 , these formulations containing
- a first subject of the present invention is thus a process for protecting the colour of a coloured textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of the said textile, this emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
- a second subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent.
- the term "cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition.
- a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which is devoid of unpleasant odour or appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
- a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium which is devoid of unpleasant odour or appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.
- such a medium is considered in particular to be physiologically acceptable when it does not cause stinging, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
- antiperspirant active agent means any aluminium salt or complex which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat and of masking human sweat.
- oil-in-water emulsion means a composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase; the two phases being stabilized by an emulsifying system.
- sociative polymers means hydrophilic polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
- hydrophobic group is understood to mean a radical or polymer comprising a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
- hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
- the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
- coloured textile material means any material that can be woven and dyed according to the known dyeing techniques. It denotes a material that can be divided into fibres or filaments, such as cotton, wool, hemp or flax (organic textiles) or synthetic fibres made of synthetic polymer.
- polyamides such as Nylon®, polyesters, chlorofibres derived from polyvinyl chloride, for instance Rhovil®, acrylics, vinyl celluloses such as cellulose acetate, and elastomeric thermoplastic polyurethanes such as Lycra®.
- compositions in accordance with the invention comprise as component (A) at least a mixture of:
- This mixture behaves in the composition like an emulsifying agent.
- alkylpolyglycoside means an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1) or an alkylpolyglycoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).
- the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixture contains:
- alkylpolyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally correspond to the following structure: R(O)(G) x in which the radical R is a linear or branched C 12 -C 22 alkyl radical, G is a saccharide residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferentially from 1.1 to 2.
- the saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.
- each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in ⁇ or ⁇ isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.
- fatty alcohols that are to be used, alone or as mixtures, in combination with the alkylpolysaccharides in the emulsifying mixtures in accordance with the invention, they may be linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, for instance alcohols derived from plant matter (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal matter (tallow, etc.). Needless to say, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, for instance ether alcohols or Guerbet alcohols. Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C 12 to C 16 ) or tallow (C 16 to C 18 ) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.
- coconut C 12 to C 16
- tallow C 16 to C 18
- the fatty alcohol(s) used are chosen from those containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, which may thus be taken alone or as mixtures.
- Fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known per se. They are described in patent applications WO 92/06778 , WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in those documents.
- fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixtures that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov® or Fluidanov®, such as the following mixtures:
- the preferred fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixtures will be chosen from cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside; C 14 -C 22 alcohol/C 12 -C 20 alkyl glucoside and more particularly the C 14 -C 22 alcohol/C 12 -C 20 alkyl glucoside mixture such as the commercial product C 14 -C 22 alcohol/C 12 -C 20 alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®.
- the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixture is preferably present in the emulsions in accordance with the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention generally comprise, in their chain, both hydrophilic blocks, usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
- these polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
- the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
- the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
- the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer).
- These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
- the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
- the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
- nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a hydrophobic chain are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the hydrophobic blocks via other chemical bonds.
- nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a hydrophobic chain
- Rheolate 205® containing a urea functional group sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
- the product DW 1206B® from Röhm & Haas containing a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
- solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
- examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox.
- the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas may also be used.
- polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention may also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993 ).
- a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
- Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.
- Aculyn 46® having the INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methyenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%).
- SMDI methyenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate)
- Aculyn 44® (PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer) is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
- a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.
- Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Sasol Servo BV under the name SER-AD FX 1100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-1001/SMDI Copolymer).
- SER-AD FX 1100® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-1001/SMDI Copolymer).
- the amount of associative polyurethane polyether(s) as active material may range, for example, from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 8% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions may contain at least one antiperspirant active agent.
- antiperspirant active agents or astringents. They are preferably chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts; complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068 , commonly known as "ZAG complexes". Such complexes are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). ZAG complexes ordinarily have an Al/Zr ratio ranging from about 1.67 to 12.5 and a metal/Cl ratio ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93.
- aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate GLY.
- aluminium salts that may be mentioned are aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium chlorohydrex, aluminium chlorohydrex PEG, aluminium chlorohydrex PG, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium dichlorohydrex PG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PG, alum salts, aluminium sulfate, aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate and more particularly the aluminium chlorohydrate sold by the company Reheis under the name Microdry aluminum Chlorohydrate or by the company Guilini Chemie under the name Aloxicoll PF 40.
- Aluminium salts and zirconium salts are for example the product sold by the company Reheis under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF®, "activated" aluminium salts, for example the product sold by the company Reheis under the name Reach 103 or by the company Westwood under the name Westchlor 200.
- the deodorant active agents may also be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan®), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban®) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts.
- Triclosan® 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether
- 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether
- zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate and zinc phenolsulfonate; chlorhexidine and the salts; diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate; and polyhexamethylene biguanide salts.
- the deodorant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion from about 0.001% to 40% by weight and preferably in a proportion of from about 0.1 % to 25% by weight relative to the total composition.
- compositions may contain at least one deodorant active agent.
- deodorant active agent means any substance that is capable of reducing, masking or absorbing human body odour and in particular underarm odour.
- the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic
- the deodorant active agents may be odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates or sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. It may also be a polyol such as glycerol or 1,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts), or an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.
- odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates or sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. It may also be a polyol
- some of the active agents mentioned above may be incorporated into spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and/or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and/or nanospheres).
- the deodorant active agents may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a concentration of from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may contain at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase, known as a fatty phase.
- This phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds that render the said phase water-immiscible.
- the said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C).
- the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention is generally constituted of at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.
- oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
- the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
- volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
- non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
- the oil may be chosen from any physiologically acceptable oil and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functional groups.
- the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30 000 mPa.s.
- volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
- non-volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
- compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may also contain at least one agent for structuring the said fatty phase, which may preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, and mineral or organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
- the wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
- the waxes suitable for the invention can exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.
- the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
- the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920® by the company TA Instruments.
- the measurement protocol is as follows:
- a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute; it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
- the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
- the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
- the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax® by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax
- montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax
- Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains. Mention may especially be made, among these waxes, of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
- isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)
- silicone waxes C 30-45 alkyl dimethicone
- fluoro waxes C 30-45 alkyl dimethicone
- waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190 .
- a wax that may be used is a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
- Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company Koster Keunen.
- microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, the commercial products Performalene 400 Polyethylene® and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes, for instance the wax having the INCI
- composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15% and more particularly from 6% to 15%.
- polyethylene microwaxes in the form of crystallites with an aspect ratio at least equal to 2, and with a melting point ranging from 70°C to 110°C and preferably from 70°C to 100°C, in order to reduce or indeed even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.
- crystallites in needle form and especially the dimensions thereof may be characterized visually according to the following method.
- the wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a hotplate.
- the slide and the wax are heated to a temperature generally at least 5°C higher than the melting point of the wax or of the mixture of waxes under consideration.
- the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are allowed to cool in order to solidify.
- Observation of the crystallites is performed using a Leica DMLB100® optical microscope, with an objective lens selected as a function of the size of the objects to be viewed, and under polarized light.
- the dimensions of the crystallites are measured using image analysis software such as that sold by the company Microvision.
- the crystallite polyethylene waxes in accordance with the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 ⁇ m.
- the term "average length” denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, which is written as D50.
- the term "pasty compound” is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which has in the solid form an anisotropic crystal organization, and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin.
- a pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.
- esters the following are especially preferred:
- Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.
- fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
- the hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000).
- the hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
- the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® or Trefil E-506C® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company Grant Industries and SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company General Electric; ethyl cellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with C 1 to C 6 , and in particular
- Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
- Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619 , in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5 783 657 .
- polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000 comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functional
- lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour.
- Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069 , US-A-5 919 441 , US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680 may also be used.
- silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from organic powders, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
- cosmetic adjuvants chosen from organic powders, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
- compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder.
- organic powder means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C).
- organic powders that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include polyamide particles and especially those sold under the Orgasol® names by the company Atochem; nylon-6,6 fibres, especially the polyamide fibres sold by Etableaus P Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm® (INCI name: Nylon-6,6® or Polyamide-6,6) with a mean diameter of 6 ⁇ m, a weight of about 0.9 dtex and a length ranging from 0.3 mm to 1.5 mm; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap®; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85® by the company Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size:
- the thickeners may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Simulgel 800
- the thickeners may also be cationic, for instance Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95® (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96® (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers, for instance those of the CTFA name Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Cationic Copolymer In Emulsion.
- Salcare SC95® Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6)
- Salcare SC96® Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6)
- other crosslinked cationic polymers for instance those of the CTFA name Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylamino
- one or more suspension agents preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
- hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
- examples that may be mentioned include the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of bentonite and the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc.
- CTA name Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of hectorite and distearyldimonium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities.
- Other suspension agents may be used, in the present case in hydrophilic (aqueous and/or ethanolic) media. They may be cellulose, xanthan, guar, starch, locust bean or agar agar derivatives.
- the suspension agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for treating perspiration.
- composition used in the invention may be in the form of a more of less thickened cream distributed in a tube or a grid; in the form of a roll-on (conditioned in ball form) or in pressurized form such as a spray or an aerosol device and may in this regard contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to those skilled in the art.
- the composition is in the form of a roll-on.
- compositions used in the invention may also be pressurized and may be packaged in an aerosol device formed by:
- compositions as defined previously and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container.
- the concentration of propellant generally varies from 5% to 95% by weight of pressurized composition, and more preferentially from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
- the dispensing means which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally formed by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vapourized.
- the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, optionally coated with a protective varnish coat.
- compositions to be made up preparation method and application conditions
- a colorimetric measurement is taken on the untreated fabric by evaluating an average of three measurements per fabric. This measured value corresponds to the reference colour of the fabric.
- 0.4 g of composition is applied at the centre of each fabric.
- Each fabric is folded into four. The folded fabrics are placed on a perforated plate and covered with a film of cellophane. They are incubated for 16 hours at 37°C (simulation of being worn for a day). They are machine-washed at 40°C. They are tumble-dried. They are ironed.
- a colorimetric measurement is taken and an average of three measurements per fabric is determined. Four washing cycles are performed, and the fabrics are then exposed to light for 48 hours.
- ⁇ E reflects the colour variation: the greater the value of ⁇ E, the more colour is modified relative to the initial colour.
- Example 1 roll-on Example 2 (outside the invention) standard roll-on PEG-136/Steareth-100I/SMDI Copolymer (SER-AD FX 1100) 1 C 14 -C 22 alcohols/C 12 -C 20 alkylglucosides - (Montanov L) 3 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid) 7 0.7 Cetearyl alcohol (Nafol 1618 S) 2.5 Ceteareth-33 (Simulsol CS Flakes) 1.25 Aluminium 20 30 hydroxychloride as an aqueous solution (dilution 50% in water, Chlorohydrol 50) Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (Dissolvine GL-47-S) 0.16 Perlite (25 microns) (Optimat 2550 OR) 1 1 Preserving agent 0.075 0.5 Fragrance 1 1 Water qs 100 qs 100 ⁇ E* after 4 cycles and 48 hours of exposure to light 0.83 ⁇ 0.07
- composition 1 of the invention makes it possible to obtain a more stable coloration of the fabric after 4 washing cycles and then 48 hours of exposure to light.
Claims (19)
- Verfahren zum Schutz der Farbe eines farbigen Textilmaterials, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion auf die Oberfläche des Textils aufgebracht wird, wobei diese Emulsion in einem kosmetisch unbedenklichen Medium(A) mindestens eine Mischung, die mindestens ein Alkylpolyglycosid, dessen Alkylkette linear oder verzweigt ist und 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatome umfasst, und mindestens einen linearen oder verzweigten Fettalkohol mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen umfasst;(B) mindestens einen assoziativen nichtionischen Polyurethanpolyetherenthält.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, bei dem die emulgierende Mischung von (A) und (B)(a) 5 bis 60 Gew.-% Alkylpolyglycosid(e),(b) 95 bis 40 Gew.-% Fettalkohol(e),bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der emulgierenden Mischung, enthält.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, bei dem das Alkylpolyglycosid bzw. die Alkylpolyglycoside der folgenden Struktur entspricht bzw. entsprechen:
R(O)(G)x
in der der Rest R für einen linearen oder verzweigten C12-C22-Alkylrest steht, G für einen Saccharidrest steht und x im Bereich von 1 bis 5, vorzugsweise von 1,05 bis 2,5 und weiter bevorzugt von 1,1 bis 2, liegt. - Verfahren nach Anspruch 3, bei dem der Saccharidrest G aus Glucose, Dextrose, Saccharose, Fructose, Galactose, Maltose, Maltotriose, Lactose, Cellobiose, Mannose, Ribose, Dextran, Talose, Allose, Xylose, Lävoglucan, Cellulose und Stärke ausgewählt ist.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, bei dem der Saccharidrest G für Glucose steht.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, bei dem der Fettalkohol bzw. die Fettalkohole 12 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatome enthält bzw. enthalten.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, bei dem der Fettalkohol bzw. die Fettalkohole alleine oder als Mischungen aus Laurylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Palmityl-alkohol, Oleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol und Arachidylalkohol ausgewählt ist bzw. sind.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, bei dem das Alkylpolyglucosid einen Alkylteil enthält, der mit demjenigen des Fettalkohols identisch ist.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, bei dem die Fettalkohol/Alkylpolyglycosid-Mischung aus den folgenden Mischungen ausgewählt ist:Cetylstearylalkohol/Cocoylglucosid;Arachidylalkohol und Behenylalkohol/Arachidyl-glucosid;Myristylalkohol/Myristylglucosid;Cetylstearylalkohol/Cetylstearylglucosid;C14-C22-Alkohol/C12-C20-Alkylglucosid;Cocoylalkohol/Cocoylglucosid;Isostearylalkohol/Isostearylglucosid.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, bei dem die Fettalkohol/Alkylpolyglycosid-Mischung aus Cetylstearylalkohol/Cetylstearylglucosid; C14-C22-Alkohol/C12-C20-Alkylglucosid und spezieller der C14-C22-Alkohol/C12-C20-Alkylglucosid-Mischung ausgewählt ist.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether in seiner Kette sowohl hydrophile Blöcke als auch hydrophobe Blöcke, bei denen es sich um aliphatische Sequenzen alleine und/oder cyclo-aliphatische und/oder aromatische Sequenzen handeln kann, umfasst.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 11, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether mindestens zwei lipophile kohlenwasserstoffbasierte Ketten mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die durch einen hydrophilen Block getrennt sind, umfasst, wobei es sich bei den kohlenwasserstoffbasierten Ketten um Seitenketten oder Ketten am Ende des hydrophilen Blocks handeln kann.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 12, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether eine kohlenwasserstoffbasierte Kette an einem Ende oder an beiden Enden des hydrophilen Blocks umfasst.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 13, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether ein Multiblockpolymer ist und insbesondere in Triblockform vorliegt.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 14, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether in Triblockform vorliegt, wobei es sich bei dem hydrophilen Block um eine Polyoxyethylenkette mit 50 bis 1000 Oxyethylengruppen handelt.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 15, bei dem der assoziative nichtionische Polyurethanpolyether durch Polykondensation von mindestens drei Verbindungen, umfassend (i) mindestens ein Polyethylenglykol mit 150 bis 180 mol Ethylenoxid, (ii) einen polyoxyethylenierten Stearylalkohol mit 100 mol Ethylenoxid und (iii) ein Diisocyanat, erhältlich ist.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 16, bei dem es sich bei dem assoziativen nichtionischen Polyurethanpolyether um ein Polykondensat von Polyethylenglykol mit 136 mol Ethylenoxid, mit 100 mol Ethylenoxid polyoxyethyleniertem Stearylalkohol und Hexamethylendiisocyanat (HDI) mit einem gewichtsmittleren Molekulargewicht von 30.000 handelt.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 17, bei dem die Zusammensetzung außerdem einen Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff umfasst.
- Verwendung einer Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion gemäß einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Mittel zur Verringerung oder Eliminierung des Verblassens der Farbe eines farbigen Textilmaterials, das mit einer Zusammensetzung, die mindestens einen Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff umfasst, in Kontakt steht.
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PL13756376T PL2900335T3 (pl) | 2012-09-27 | 2013-08-23 | Sposób ochrony koloru materiału tektylnego za pomocą emulsji typu olej w wodzie zawierającej mieszaninę alkilopoliglukozydu i alkoholu tłuszczowego i asocjacyjny niejonowy polieter poliuretanowy |
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FR1259117A FR2995914B1 (fr) | 2012-09-27 | 2012-09-27 | Procede de protection de la couleur d'un materiau textile avec une emulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un melange d'alkylpolyglycoside et d'alcool gras et un polyether polyurethane non-ionique associatif |
US201261712340P | 2012-10-11 | 2012-10-11 | |
PCT/EP2013/067566 WO2014048647A1 (en) | 2012-09-27 | 2013-08-23 | Process for protecting the colour of a textile material with an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of alkylpolyglycoside and fatty alcohol and an associative nonionic polyurethane polyether |
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EP2900335A1 EP2900335A1 (de) | 2015-08-05 |
EP2900335B1 true EP2900335B1 (de) | 2017-03-22 |
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EP (1) | EP2900335B1 (de) |
BR (1) | BR112015006811B1 (de) |
ES (1) | ES2625068T3 (de) |
FR (1) | FR2995914B1 (de) |
MX (1) | MX361869B (de) |
PL (1) | PL2900335T3 (de) |
RU (1) | RU2692849C2 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2014048647A1 (de) |
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DE19641672A1 (de) * | 1996-10-10 | 1998-04-16 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen auf der Basis von ethylenoxidfreien und propylenoxidfreien Emulgatoren zur Herstellung von Mikroemulsionsgelen |
US5925338A (en) * | 1997-01-29 | 1999-07-20 | The Gillette Company | Clear antiperspirant or deodorant gel composition with volatile linear silicone to reduce staining |
FR2781149B1 (fr) * | 1998-07-17 | 2001-09-07 | Oreal | Composition deodorante contenant un sel d'alun |
FR2807656B1 (fr) * | 2000-04-18 | 2002-05-24 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique antitranspirante ne tachant pas les vetements |
GB0310767D0 (en) * | 2003-05-10 | 2003-06-18 | Unilever Plc | Stick compositions |
FR2863490B1 (fr) * | 2003-12-16 | 2006-05-19 | Oreal | Composition deorante du type emulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un melange d'alkylpolyglycoside et d'alcool gras et un polyether polyurethane non-ionique associatif |
US20060115440A1 (en) * | 2004-09-07 | 2006-06-01 | Arata Andrew B | Silver dihydrogen citrate compositions |
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2012
- 2012-09-27 FR FR1259117A patent/FR2995914B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
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2013
- 2013-08-23 WO PCT/EP2013/067566 patent/WO2014048647A1/en active Application Filing
- 2013-08-23 EP EP13756376.3A patent/EP2900335B1/de active Active
- 2013-08-23 ES ES13756376.3T patent/ES2625068T3/es active Active
- 2013-08-23 PL PL13756376T patent/PL2900335T3/pl unknown
- 2013-08-23 RU RU2015115647A patent/RU2692849C2/ru active
- 2013-08-23 MX MX2015002028A patent/MX361869B/es active IP Right Grant
- 2013-08-23 BR BR112015006811A patent/BR112015006811B1/pt active IP Right Grant
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2995914B1 (fr) | 2016-12-30 |
RU2015115647A (ru) | 2016-11-20 |
FR2995914A1 (fr) | 2014-03-28 |
EP2900335A1 (de) | 2015-08-05 |
RU2692849C2 (ru) | 2019-06-28 |
MX2015002028A (es) | 2015-06-22 |
BR112015006811B1 (pt) | 2019-08-13 |
MX361869B (es) | 2018-12-18 |
PL2900335T3 (pl) | 2017-08-31 |
WO2014048647A1 (en) | 2014-04-03 |
ES2625068T3 (es) | 2017-07-18 |
BR112015006811A2 (pt) | 2018-07-17 |
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