EP2512416A2 - Cosmetic treatment method involving a compound capable of condensing in situ - Google Patents
Cosmetic treatment method involving a compound capable of condensing in situInfo
- Publication number
- EP2512416A2 EP2512416A2 EP10793232A EP10793232A EP2512416A2 EP 2512416 A2 EP2512416 A2 EP 2512416A2 EP 10793232 A EP10793232 A EP 10793232A EP 10793232 A EP10793232 A EP 10793232A EP 2512416 A2 EP2512416 A2 EP 2512416A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- compound
- skin
- name
- compounds
- under
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4933—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having sulfur as an exocyclic substituent, e.g. pyridinethione
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/002—Aftershave preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process involving a compound, or set of compounds, capable of condensing in situ.
- the Applicant has shown that it is possible to form in the surface layers of the skin or on the skin a condensate conferring on the skin a property of capturing compounds of cosmetic interest.
- This so-called “capture” layer is formed by in situ condensation of at least one compound or set of compound A which will be described later.
- the advantageous properties obtained by the process according to the invention are in particular: an acceleration of the kinetics of action of the compound of cosmetic interest,
- An object of the present invention therefore relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application on the skin:
- a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A -
- the Applicant has in fact been able to demonstrate that the application of these two types of compounds on the skin makes it possible to confer localized, rapid and tenacious cosmetic properties.
- the capture layer is formed in situ in the superficial layers of the skin by condensation of a compound or a set of compounds A.
- the subject of the invention is also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, as a capture agent on or in the skin of a compound of cosmetic interest.
- the subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capture on or in the skin of the skin.
- a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A.
- the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water and the compound C of cosmetic interest is chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A lead to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
- the invention relates to a method for insolubilizing a condensate in the skin, comprising applying to the skin:
- a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive functional group Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A ,
- the subject of the invention is also a process for reducing the solubility (or even insolubilizing) on or in the skin of the material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of condensing in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, said material being soluble in water, comprising the application on said material of a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a chemical bond which may be covalent or ionic by reaction with the function F A , C being chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A leads to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
- An object of the invention also relates to a method for obtaining on or in the skin an insoluble condensate having cosmetic properties, comprising the application on the skin:
- a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A , the material resulting from the condensation of A being soluble in water, and
- the invention also relates to the use of a compound C to reduce the solubility (or insolubilize) of a material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least a reactive function F A free after condensation, said material being soluble in water, C being a compound of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A.
- the decrease in the solubility of the material resulting from the condensation of A makes it possible moreover to further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, even strengthening, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C.
- skin describes the skin or the scalp.
- a compound A capable of condensing in situ is used.
- the compound A must comprise at least two reactive functions: a function allowing the compound A to condense on itself and at least one reactive function F A called capture, or a function leading to the formation of a function F A after condensation.
- a set of compounds A is used.
- This embodiment comprises the implementation of at least two molecules capable of condensing with each other.
- the molecules constituting the set of compounds must comprise one (or more) function (s) allowing condensation of the set A, and one (or more) function (s) allowing the presence of a reactive function F A capture after condensation.
- the function (s) F A is present on only one of the compounds of the set of compounds A.
- the function (s) ) reactive is present on at least two compounds of the set of compounds.
- A2 may not contain a capture function.
- Al has capture functions, or these appear at the end of the condensation reaction.
- the A2 compound can contain capture functions.
- the compound Al may contain no capture function.
- condensation of the set of compounds A can be represented in the following manner.
- Al includes a capture function (compound F A -A1); A2 does not produce condensation: ... A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ...
- Al and A2 comprise a capture function (identical or different)
- the method according to the invention comprises:
- the capture function (s) must be at least partly free after condensation of A to react with the compound C.
- the capture function (s) may not exist or be in free form in the compound or set of compounds A but appear or become free at the end of its condensation. It may be, for example, primary amine functions that could appear following the action of enzyme naturally present on the skin.
- the free capture functions after condensation must be in proportion such that Fcapt / A> 0.1 and preferably> 0.5, Fcapt and A respectively represent the quantities in number of free capture functions after condensation and of In other words, there exists after condensation at least one free capture function for 10 molecules of A, preferably at least 5 free capture functions.
- the FA capture functions of the compound or set of compounds A are typically selected from amines and other nucleophilic functions, such as hydroxyl, thiol, sulphate and phosphate functions. Preferentially, it is amines; preferentially, primary amines.
- the condensation of A can come from the reaction of a nucleophilic species on an electrophilic species.
- the condensation functions are typically those allowing the creation of a bond by elimination of a molecule of water according to the following equation:
- the compounds used are organosilanes.
- the condensation can come from the reaction of a species by tearing out a proton of a second species, in particular according to one of the following equations:
- R-CH CH 2 + HR 'R-CH 2 -CH 2 -R'
- R and R ' denote independently of each other any group of atoms, it being understood that the product of the condensation of A must comprise at least one free FA function.
- the condensation is done according to the first alternative described above.
- compound A is an organic silicon compound comprising from 1 to 3 silicon atoms, and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
- Compound A is therefore chosen from organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms.
- compound A is an organosilane.
- the compound A may especially be an alkoxysilane, and preferably a functionalized alkoxysilane.
- the set of compounds A may be the mixture of an organic silicon compound as described above (compound A1) and at least one other compound (compound A2) such as the set comprising the organic silicon compound and the compound A2 is capable of condensing in situ.
- the compound A (or at least one of the molecules of the set of compounds A) has the formula: in which :
- R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'j;
- R5 is halogen, OR "or R'2;
- Rg represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3;
- R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups such as acidic or amino groups, wherein R 1, R 2, R ', R “and R'” may further denote hydrogen, and
- R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'", R '1, R' 2 and R '3 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 2, an aryl group of C 1 to C 14, a group C1 to C ⁇ alkyl, C1 to C ⁇ alkyl, and C1 to Cg alkyl, C1 to C C aryl; and R is preferably an alkyl group of Cj to Cj2, aryl Cg ll -C, alkyl of Cj to Cg-Cg aryl to aryl and CJ4 of Cg to C ⁇ -alkyl q -C 8.
- Preferred organosiloxanes in the compositions of the present invention may be represented by the formula:
- R1, R2, R3, R5 and R8 are defined as above;
- R'4 represents a halogen (fluorine, bromine, chlorine or iodine) or a group ORj j;
- R7 represents a halogen, a group ORJ Q OR R "J;
- Rg represents a halogen, a group ORg, R '2 or R NRJR2;
- R "j, R '2, Rg, R10 and Ri j represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups such as basic solubilizing groups;
- R ⁇ , RJ O and Rg may further designate hydrogen.
- R 1, R 1, R 2 or R 2 and R 5 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 12, a C 6 to C 6 aryl group, a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group of C 1 to C 6 alkyl, and a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl aryl group of C 1 to C 6.
- At least one of Rg, Ry and Rg is a halogen or a group OR '', ORI Q OR ORg.
- the halogen is chlorine.
- a particularly preferred class of organic silicon compounds is compounds of the formula:
- radicals R are chosen from alkyl radicals C j C6 alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.
- compound A is an alkoxysilane comprising at least one nucleophilic capture function, and in particular ⁇ -aminopropyl triethoxysilane, referred to as APTES in the rest of this text, or a derivative thereof.
- the compound A2 capable of being involved in the process according to the present invention, when a set of compounds A is applied to the skin, may for example satisfy the same definition as the compound A given above.
- the compound A2 can in particular be chosen from molecules having the capacity to form an Si-O-Si bond.
- MTES methyl triethoxysilane
- A is chosen so that condensation occurs only once it has reached the zone where this condensation is to take place.
- compound A can be very reactive, and its condensation can be done on the surface of the skin. Alternatively, the condensation can be done once the compound A has penetrated into the skin in a more or less deep way.
- the compound A, or the set of compounds A is soluble in water because of the reactive functions which it comprises. Given these properties, the material resulting from the condensation of A is also generally soluble in water.
- the compound of cosmetic interest is a compound making it possible to confer at least one specific property on the skin, or a mixture of such compounds, and comprises at least one chemical function Fc that is capable of reacting with at least one of the functions of free capture of the material resulting from the condensation of compound A or the set of compounds A.
- Compound C may also be able to react on itself.
- compound C contains at least one aldehyde or ketone function and is capable of reacting with a primary amine (representing the function F A of the compound or set of compounds A) as follows:
- Compound C may be chosen from simple aldehydes, conjugated aldehydes, aromatic aldehydes such as activated benzaldehydes and ketones, in particular by an attractor group, or conjugation functions.
- the carbonyl functions can be in enol form.
- the carbonyl functions can also be engaged, as for example in the case of acetals, hemiacetals, ketals, and their sulfur equivalents.
- Fc functions of compound C are typically electron-withdrawing groups and thus can be chosen from:
- the vinyl and activated vinyl functions in particular the acrylonitrile, acrylic and methacrylic ester functions,
- vinyl ethers vinyl ketones, maleic esters, vinyl sulfones, maleimides,
- alpha-hydroxyketones alpha-haloketones
- unsaturated ring, carbon or heterocycle halides in particular chlorotriazines, chloropyrimidine, chloroquinoxalines and
- the compounds C which, once they have reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, are capable of reacting with a compound D which will react between C molecules or between C and A molecules.
- the invention applies to the treatment of the skin in general.
- Compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C are then chosen according to the desired effect on the skin:
- Compounds A and C are thus typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or very smooth material.
- C reacts with the material resulting from the reaction of A to give a heterogeneous deposit which, by a light diffusion effect, will reduce the cutaneous gloss. - to modify its flexibility and / or its touch.
- Compounds A and C are then typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, provide a soft-touch material or a water-capturing or holding material, such as a hygroscopic compound.
- filters can be used to provide durable photoprotection.
- an active molecule can be attached via the invention.
- the compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), or by a human action (c This is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or heat, so that compounds A and C can be used, such as with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable.
- Compounds A and C may be applied in one or two stages, possibly with prior, intermediate or subsequent applications of third compounds.
- the kinetics of reaction and penetration and the functions are such that C does not prevent the reaction of A on itself.
- the reaction of C on the reactive function of A is slower than the penetration of A and / or slower than the reaction of A on itself.
- the applications of these compounds are integrated in skincare or makeup routines.
- the application of compound A is incorporated into a skin preparation routine, and the application of compound C is incorporated into a foundation.
- the compounds or sets of compounds A generally have solubility properties in water. Compound A can thus be transported and penetrate the first layers of the skin. Thus, very often, the materials resulting from the condensation of the compounds or sets of compounds A retain a high solubility in water. This is for example the case when compound A is an aminoalkylalkoxysilane such as APTES (see below). This solubility in water of the material derived from compound A lessens its capture effect and more particularly the holding of the capture.
- APTES aminoalkylalkoxysilane
- the functions of compound A which will allow capture are preferably nucleophilic functions, in particular amines. However, these functions contribute to the solubility in water of the compound A but also the material resulting from the reaction of the compound A;
- the reactivity of compound A is preferably chosen to be moderate so that compound A can penetrate more easily into the skin
- compound A and compound C are chosen so that:
- the compound C can react with the material resulting from the reaction of A
- the compounds A and C are chosen so that the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water, and once C has reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, said material is insoluble in water.
- Compounds A and C are selected as follows:
- the compound C is applied under conditions allowing its reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A;
- the compounds A and C are retained which make it possible to obtain a value of PP A + C lower than the value of PP A , since A has been insolubilized with the addition of C.
- the compound A is chosen so that its reactivity is moderate.
- Compound A remains in monomer form for the most part, and does not form more monomer + dimer + trimer.
- the ratio: A m / A (where ml, 2, 3) is greater than 50%, or more preferably greater than 75%;
- the analytical determination is carried out 5 minutes after this action (for example, mixing is carried out at the moment of the job then the analysis is done 5 minutes later).
- the process according to the invention is a cosmetic process for coloring the skin, in which the compound C is a molecule that can give skin color.
- the "color” property designates at least one color effect of the skin that may be, for example, an increase or a change in color, a change in the chromaticity, the appearance of fluorescence, phosphorescence, chemiluminescence, shine or tarnishing.
- compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a chromophore. It is also possible to use a compound A which is colored, and / or a compound C which is colored, or a compound A and / or a compound C which, colorless, gradually colors. It is also possible to use compounds A and / or C which have a whitening, bleaching or depigmenting effect. In particular, the final color may be more aesthetic than that which would have given compound C in the absence of compound A. For example, it may better match the skin tone or give a more natural appearance.
- Compounds C which give no color in applications outside the present invention give in the present invention interesting color effects. Compound C can be colored. In this case, the invention can in particular be used to improve the color retention. Compound C may not be colored. In this case, the invention serves to make the color appear, and possibly give an appearance to this color.
- the compound C may not be colored or give color by reaction with the compound A.
- the compound C is chosen so that it can give, by a transformation after application, a prior, concomitant or posterior to the reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A, a colored species.
- compound C can give a colored species by oxidation reaction.
- C may be, in this context a polyphenol, a diamine compound, or an amino hydroxyl compound.
- Compound C can naturally turn into a colored species, or it is possible to trigger or assist the transformation, for example by adding an oxidant, a catalyst or an oxidation enzyme.
- the Applicant has also been able to show that it was possible to modulate the behavior over time of the color effect by adjusting the interval between the application of A and C on the skin. This property can be exploited to obtain upper or intermediate holdings, which are not attainable with the coloring methods conventionally used. For example, you can get a tanned effect for a period of 2 days. Such behavior is surprising compared to that conventionally obtained with current methods, especially with respect to current stains obtained with DHA. It can adapt to those who want to please the time of a weekend for example.
- the self-tanning agents are generally chosen from certain mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-dion derivatives. as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342.
- DHA dihydroxyacetone
- DHA 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives
- Use will be made of preferably DHA.
- DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
- the self-tanning agent (s) are generally present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
- the compound C may also be chosen from molecules which, although colorless, are capable of forming colored compounds after their use according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES (or a film of Poly APTES, product of the condensate of the APTES). Mention may in particular be made of cinnamaldehyde, citronellal and citral.
- the compound C may also be chosen from molecules which are capable of forming fluorescent compounds under UV (optical brighteners) after their application according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES.
- Nonanal and hydroxycitronellal may be mentioned in particular
- the Applicant has been able to observe the surprising appearance of fluorescence in the areas of the skin where the method according to the invention has been used.
- compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or otherwise very smooth material.
- C may react with the material from the condensation of A to give a powder.
- the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for conditioning the skin, in which compound C is a molecule capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the skin.
- compound C is a molecule capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the skin.
- agents that make it possible to modify the physicochemical properties of the surface of the skin.
- Compounds A and C are therefore typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material whose surface tension characteristics are different from those of the skin. It is also possible to use compounds A and C which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material which occludes the passage of certain molecules.
- the conditioning of the skin can be obtained by using a compound C chosen from conditioning polymers. o Conditioner polymers
- conditioning polymers that may be used in the context of the invention may be chosen from the lists below:
- hydrophobic acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part (amphiphilic polymers) comprising at least one fatty chain.
- the fatty chain present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.
- amphiphilic polymers according to the invention generally have a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000, more preferably from 100,000 to 8,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 7,000,000.
- the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
- the crosslinking agents may be chosen in particular from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).
- TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
- the degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
- amphiphilic AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine such as those described in the application for WO00 / 31154.
- These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide or vinylpyrrolidone. , itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
- the preferred AMPS polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22. carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- This hydrophobic part may be a linear, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, nhexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical.
- These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone, and itaconic acid or maleic acid.
- These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers comprising, for example:
- a fluorinated or alkylfluorinated C7-C18 radical for example the group of formula - (CH 2 ) 2 - (CF 2 ) 9 -CF 3 );
- cholesteryl radical or a radical derived from cholesterol (for example, cholesteryl hexanoate);
- aromatic polycyclic group such as naphthalene or pyrene
- hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation of the invention are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:
- R27 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30, preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the hydrophobic radical R28 is preferably chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (eg cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the formula group - (CH2) 2- (CF2) -CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene.
- linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl),
- the hydrophobic radical R 28 additionally comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.
- the polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists solely of ethylene oxide units.
- the number of moles of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 1 to 30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.
- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) units ) alkyl (meth) acrylates with respect to the polymer, such as those described in EP-A-750 899;
- terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer such as those described in US-A-5,089,578.
- amphiphilic polymers mention may also be made of the copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or noctadecyl methacrylate, as well as the uncrosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide. .
- crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers consisting of:
- X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion;
- n and p independently of one another, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to at 30, preferably less than 25 and more preferably less than 20;
- R27 has the same meaning indicated above in formula (1) and R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl having m carbon atoms, m ranging from 7 to 22, preferably from 12 to 22.
- the cation X + denotes more particularly sodium or ammonium.
- the monomers of formula (3) mention may be made
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty oxoalcohol in polyoxyethylenated Ci at 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL UD-080 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and C12-C14 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at 7 OE such as the product GENAPOL LA-070 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol C12-C14 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL LA-110 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-080 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 15 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-150 sold by Clariant;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-1 10 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 20 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-200 sold by CLARIANT;
- esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 at 25 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-250 sold by CLARIANT; and esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C18-C22 at 25 EO and / or polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at C16-C18 at 25 EO.
- amphiphilic polymers are described and synthesized in application EP1069142.
- initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, hydrochloride of 2,2-azobis- [2- amid
- amphiphilic polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate.
- precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses.
- the reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
- the polymers according to the invention are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.
- the molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic polymers according to the invention varies according to the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water water or water-in-oil) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It can vary between 0, 1 and 99.9 mol%.
- the amphiphilic AMPS polymers of the invention which are not very hydrophobic will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the oil-in-water emulsions.
- the molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 1 to 25% and even more particularly from 3 to 10%.
- the more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the water-in-oil emulsions.
- the molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 60 to 95% and even more particularly from 65 to 90%.
- the distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.
- Aristoflex HMS As an indication and without limitation, mention will be made of the following commercial references: Aristoflex HMS, Aristoflex LNC, Aristoflex SNC and Aristoflex HMB marketed by Clariant.
- these hydrophobic polymers of AMPS as described can be used as additives in an emulsion, and in this case will be solubilized preferentially in the aqueous phase thereof, or as emulsifiers. In this case, they allow the formation of O / W emulsions as described in the applications WO02 / 055039, WO02 / 055038, EP1353642, EP1353633, WO02 / 055052, FR2853544 and EP1466587.
- the water-soluble silicones that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II):
- the radicals R5 which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl or butyl; or else chosen from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferably all of them refer to methyl; some of the R5 radicals may also contain one plus one ethylcyclohexylenemonooxide group and are in low proportion in the polysiloxane chain;
- u is 5 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25;
- - v is 3 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8;
- x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3;
- y and z being chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E ranges from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3,000; preferably, the number z is equal to zero.
- R6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical (preferably C1-C4 alkyl as methyl) or a C2-C8 acyl radical (preferably C2-C4 acyl).
- the oxyethylene and oxypropylene units may be distributed in the polyether chain E randomly and / or in block form.
- Such silicones are for example sold by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720 ®, ® Silwet L-7002, Silwet L-7600 ®, Silwet L-7604 ®, Silwet
- the block copolymers used in the process according to the invention are in particular amphiphilic, nonionic, diblock or triblock block polymers, which can form, in contact with water, micelles, vesicle-type particles (for example liposomes) or lyotropic liquid crystal phases lamellar, cubic (direct or inverse) or hexagonal (direct or inverse) in contact with water. They are in particular of the diblock (AB) or triblock (ABA) type, A corresponding to a nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block and B to a hydrophobic polymeric block.
- the molecular weight of the polymers can be between 1000 and 100,000 and the ratio A / B can be between 1/100 and 50/1.
- the block copolymers used can in particular be chosen from amphiphilic block polymers based on polystyrene.
- the hydrophobic polymeric block can then be chosen from polystyrene and poly (tert-butylstyrene).
- the nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
- POE polyethylene oxide
- PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
- Tegomer SE 1010 and SE 1030 from the company Goldschmidt (cf the applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions).
- the block copolymers used can also be chosen from polyoxyethylenated amphiphilic block polymers
- the hydrophobic polymeric block of the invention may correspond to:
- R is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7,
- X is selected from:
- R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the compound (A) can be methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate,
- the nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
- the block copolymer is preferably chosen from the following block copolymers:
- TegomerBE 1010 and BE 1030 as well as Tegomer ME 1010 and ME 1030 from the company Goidsclimidt (cf. applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions) the polysaccharides chosen from:
- the preferred derivatives are hydroxyethylcelluloses with a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 2,000,000, carboxymethylcelluloses such as Aqualon's Blanose LF7, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydrophobic C10-C30 cellulose derivatives such as Hercules' Natrosol 330+ and Polysurf 67 from Aqualon;
- Xanthan gums such as Keltrol T from CP Kelco and Guar as Jaguar HP 105 from Rhodia;
- alginates which may be esterified, such as Kelcoloid O from CP Kelco (esterification rate of 80-85%);
- F) fructose derivatives such as Sochibo / Bioland Fructan
- Rhamnose derivatives such as Rhamnosoft of Solabia
- POE-POP-POE triblock derivatives such as poloxamers, soluble in water (1% clear solution in water at room temperature). ambient) and having a molecular weight (MW) greater than 8000.
- Poloxamer 338 POE-POP-POE: 128/54/128
- Poloxamer 407 POE-POP-POE: 98/67/98
- Poloxamer 188 POE-POP-POE: 75/30/75
- Poloxamer 238 POE-POP-POE: 97/39/97).
- polyamino acid derivatives such as polyglutamic acid such as Ishumaru Pharcos Bio PGA solution, polyaspartic acid such as AquaDew SPA-30 of Ajinomoto, polyleucine and polylysine such as polylysine and Epsilon polylysine from Chisso corporation. galacturonic acid derivatives such as Fluka Dextran. copolymers of maleic anhydride or succinic anhydride such as Clariant's Licocare PP207 and Wacker Chemistry's Wacker GF20. methyl vinyl ether / ethyl monomaleate copolymers such as Gantrez ES225 from ISP. the poly (alkyloxazoline) derivatives:
- RI is a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, and preferably an ethyl group and has a value such that the molecular weight is at least 10000.
- the oxazoline polymers of formula (1) have a molecular weight greater than 10,000, generally between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and preferably between 50,000 and 500,000, and are prepared by polymerization of 2-alkyl 2-oxazoline.
- the preferred polymers are homopolymers of ethyloxazoline having a molecular weight of between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and more particularly those sold under the name of PEOX by DOW CHEMICAL Company having molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000.
- a more particularly preferred polymer according to the invention is represented by an homopolymer of ethyloxazoline with a molecular weight of 50000.
- PEOX PM 50000
- PEOX PM 200000
- PEOX PM 500000
- POLYMER XAS-10874.01 or SigmaAldrich, sold under the names Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 50000, Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 200000 and Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 500000.
- Polymers comprising a methacryloyloxethyl phosphorylcholine (MPC) group are particularly effective in improving the water retention properties on the surface of the skin and the hair.
- MPC methacryloyloxethyl phosphorylcholine
- acrylic polymer group phosphorylcholine type is meant a polymer having an acrylic backbone and comprising pendant groups (or side chains) containing a group of formula (I) below:
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms;
- R 4 denotes - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) m - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) - with R 8 denoting a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl group, and m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 10;
- R 5 denotes - (CH 2 ) g -, g being an integer ranging from 2 to 10.
- Such a polymer can be obtained by polymerization of acrylic monomer comprising the group of formula (I) described above, referred to hereinafter in the description of the acrylic monomer PC.
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; n represents an integer ranging from 2 to 4; R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
- PC acrylic monomer mention may be made of the following monomers:
- 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2'- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate also called 2-
- the acrylic polymer PC used according to the invention is a polymer obtained by polymerization of a PC acrylic monomer as described above and optionally of one or more additional monomers different from the acrylic monomer PC.
- the additional monomers may be chosen from methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylamide, (meth) 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, ethyl vinyl ether, butyl vinyl ether, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl chloride, ethylene, isobutylene, acrylonitrile, styrene, methyl styrene, chloromethyl styrene.
- the acrylic polymer PC may comprise from 40 to 100 mol% of units derived from the acrylic monomer PC as described above and from 0 to 60 mol% of units derived from additional monomer.
- the polymer with a phosphorylcholine group is chosen from 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine homopolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate copolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / chloride 2 copolymer.
- the acrylic polymer PC preferably has a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 1,000,000, and preferably ranging from 80,000 to 800,000.
- acrylic polymers with a phosphorylcholine group it is possible to use:
- CTFA polyquaternium-61.
- Polyvinyl acetate is a vinyl polymer produced by radical polymerization of vinyl acetate monomer and then hydrolyzed, in this case to 88%, to obtain polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), the polymer of interest to us in this study has the following pattern:
- the PVA is used in its hydrolysed form, that is to say in 88% hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol. It is possible in particular to use the PVA sold under the name CELVOL 540 PV ALCOHOL by the company CELANESE CHEMICALS
- the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for modifying a biological activity of the skin.
- Compound A can be chosen to allow the material resulting from the condensation of A to retain active molecules (compound C).
- the molecules can be active once fixed on the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is possible in this case to benefit from a prolonged effect of the activity of the active molecule.
- the active molecules can be deactivated by fixation but can be released from the condensate of A and possibly B over time. In this case, it is also possible to benefit from a prolonged activity.
- the subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capturing on the skin and releasing prolonged of a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A.
- the invention also relates to a method of cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin with prolonged activity, the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one reactive function F A free after condensation, and a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A which can be released from the material from the condensate of A.
- an active molecule can be attached via the invention.
- the compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), either by a human action (this is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or even heat.
- a natural action this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration
- a human action this is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or even heat.
- compounds A and C as they are equipped with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable o Skin treatment agents
- Compound C may be a skin treatment agent selected from the following lists.
- - moisturizing or humectant agents Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluromic acid, AHAs, BHAs, pidolate and the like.
- treating agent any compound capable of acting:
- ⁇ -hydroxy acids BHA
- salicylic acid and its derivatives including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid
- AHAs ⁇ -hydroxyacids
- glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic and mandelic acids 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid
- urea and its derivatives gentisic acid and its derivatives
- oligofucoses cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives
- cinnamic acid Saphora japonica extract
- resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives oligofucoses
- aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name T ILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
- HPES 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid
- procysteine 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid
- drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name T ILON M
- oligofructoses EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, ⁇ -octanyl-6'-D-maltose , S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucases such as those described in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase, as in patent EP 0 899 330,
- ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Exfolactive® from Silab
- arginine As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, a wild yam rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® Activated Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica; uns
- Ceramides or derivatives in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2) may also be mentioned in particular.
- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, petrolatum, lanolin, hours of shea, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.
- tocopherol and its esters in particular tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab , green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, an extract of brown alga pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane®, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD
- anti-aging agents include DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (beta carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives and acid. jasmonic.
- depigmenting agents there may be mentioned in particular alpha and beta arbutines, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, the acid tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, Phomogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®
- Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in the application EPI 484052.
- sapogenins examples include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extract including Dioscorea opposita or any extract containing naturally or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains ecogenin and tigogenin, extract of liliaceae and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger.
- sapogenins include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extract including Dioscorea opposita or any extract containing naturally or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains ecogenin and tigogenin, extract of liliaceae and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sars
- DMAE dimethyl MEA
- extracts of sea fennel, adjoin rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline® expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.
- anti-glycation agent a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen.
- anti-glycation agents mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425 , FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name "Alistin®”), an extract of Helianthus annu
- active agents stimulating the macro molecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation there may be mentioned those which act:
- collagen such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; and arginine;
- MMP metalloproteinases
- retinoids and derivatives extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the Collalift® trade name; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (sold for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by C
- elastins elastin and fibrillin
- molecules belonging to the family of elastins such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®;
- elastin such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum marketed by the company LSN under the name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as ⁇ 2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino ⁇ acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valylglycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C 1 -C 4 alcohol C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Cothibin®, or an extract of Phyllant
- glycosaminoglycans such as the product of fermentation of milk with lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN M ⁇ LLER under the trade name HSP3®; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the name commercial Cytovitin®.
- an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma; Mamaku essence from Lucas Meyer, a watercress extract (Odraline® from Silab); or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract sold by Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN M ⁇ LLER under the trademark Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the tradename Matrixil®.
- active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules such as fibrinlins and keratins
- active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules such as fibrinlins and keratins
- the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC
- Salina zooplankton extract marketed by SEPORGA under the name GP4G®
- the copper tripeptide of PROCYTE a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®.
- active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation mention may be made of synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate sold by the company Coletica under the name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; arginine; an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologie
- an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica®
- the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®.
- an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
- an extract of Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma such as Lamina ⁇ ne® from Secma
- the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the tradename Structunne®
- the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC.
- the agents stimulating the proliferation of flbroblasts may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
- plant proteins or polypeptides extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the
- an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.
- the agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm®, Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma Capislow®, mixtures of extracts of papaya, olive leaves and lemon such as Xyléine® from Vincience, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin® marketed by Sederma.
- adenosine phloroglucinol
- hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®
- agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as the product marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®, sodium betasitosteryl sulphate, such as the product marketed by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohesine®, a water-soluble extract of corn such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobio Logiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.
- minerals such as calcium
- sea fennel a peptide extract of lupine
- Structurine® sodium betasitosteryl sulphate
- Seporga
- estrogens such as estradiol and homologues
- cytokines As agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.
- plant proteins or polypeptides extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that
- transglutaminases agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in activity.
- transglutaminases There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).
- - inhibitors of NO-svnthases are examples of urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).
- the agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect®, or finally by the company Hansen under the name grape marc extract ; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol® BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.
- OPCs procyanidolic oligomers
- plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines
- PBR Peripheral benzodiazepine receptor
- Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, O-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof.
- the active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of salts of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid.
- carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
- Scalp treatment agents such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry. Scalp treatment agents
- the agents for treating the scalp may in particular be anti-dandruff active agents, for example Zinc Pyrithione in aqueous dispersion such as Zinc Omadine Pyrithione by Arch Personal Care, or octopyrox, or ketakonazole, or selenium disulphide. , or the Tea Tree Oil.
- anti-dandruff active agents for example Zinc Pyrithione in aqueous dispersion such as Zinc Omadine Pyrithione by Arch Personal Care, or octopyrox, or ketakonazole, or selenium disulphide. , or the Tea Tree Oil.
- the Applicant has been able to demonstrate that the contacting of a Zinc Pyrithione dispersion on an APTES film is accompanied by an almost immediate flocculation of the Zinc Pyrithione dispersion. Such flocculation improves the deposit of active on the scalp.
- Photoprotective agent and filters
- the process according to the invention is a cosmetic cosmetic process for protection against radiation, in particular against UV radiation, in which compound C is chosen from photoprotective agents, in particular from UV screening agents.
- Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the
- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,
- Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL” by SCHER,
- UVINUL D50 Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
- Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid
- Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF,
- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
- Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
- UVASORB HEB Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V,
- Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
- the preferred organic screening agents are selected from:
- the inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 500 nm, and even more preferentially between 10 nm. and 100 nm, and preferably between 15 and 50 nm. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
- Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
- commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
- the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
- the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
- a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexameta
- coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company IKEDA,
- silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F” from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from the company TIOXIDE,
- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
- alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S” from TAYCA,
- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA,
- triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S” from TITAN KOGYO,
- stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)” from ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W” from the company TAYCA.
- Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name “P 25”, by the WACKHER company under the name “transparent titanium oxide PW”, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name “UFTR”, by TOMEN under the name "ITS” and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ”.
- the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;
- coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- Zinc Oxide CS-5" those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
- Escalol Z100 those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100” by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone);
- Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name “COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
- Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 ".
- coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008” (FE 45B FN) ",” NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) ",” NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 “,” NANOGARD FE 45 BL “, or by the company BASF under the name” OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
- titanium oxides in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
- TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
- TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
- titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product” M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 21 1” sold by KEMIRA.
- titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are particularly preferred.
- the photoprotective system according to the invention is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
- Compound C may typically be selected from aldehyde compounds such as aldehyde terpene derivatives or ketones, for example menthone, citronellal or citral.
- Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in " It may be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic products) more particularly comprising at least one aldehyde compound and or a ketone compound, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
- an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression).
- the essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process not causing a significant change in the composition.
- Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.
- essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:
- Apiaceae eg umbelliferae: dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley
- Asteraceae achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse
- Hypericaceae St. John's wort
- Lamiaceae thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary
- Magnoliaceae magnolia
- Myrtaceae eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle
- Thymelaceae agarwood Tilliacées
- Verbenaceae lantana, verbena
- Zingiberaceae galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger
- perfuming substances include: alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, 2-methyl-3- (p-isopropylphenyl) propanal, 3- (p- tert-butylphenyl) -propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde "4- (4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- (4-methyl-3-pentenyl) - 3- cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl
- a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.
- the perfumes are preferably chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and background) in the following families
- the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the compound C are chosen as a function of the property (or properties) which it is desired to confer on the skin.
- compound A is an alkoxysilane with primary amine capture function and compound C is a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine.
- compound A is APTES and compound C is selected from the group consisting of DHA, cinnamaldehyde (or cinammaldehyde), mexoryl SX (INCI: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid acid), zinc pyrithione, vitamin C, citronellal, citral, nonanal, hydroxycitronellal and a maleic anhydride polymer.
- the compound A is the APTES and the compound C is the DHA.
- the process according to the invention comprises the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A which can condense, in particular when it is subjected to an increase in concentration obtained by evaporation of the medium containing it.
- the compound or set of compounds A therefore has reactive functions to allow this condensation, as mentioned above.
- This condensation results in the formation of a deposit on and / or in the skin.
- This deposit is not necessarily continuous but may consist of a multitude of related fields.
- the compound A is chosen so that the material resulting from its condensation has reactive functions called "free capture functions".
- a compound C of cosmetic interest is also applied to the skin.
- Compound C can react with the product of the condensation of A, via the free capture function F A after condensation, and a function Fc present on the compound C.
- the method according to the invention comprises the sequential or concomitant application of compound A (or set of compounds A) and compound C.
- the compound A (or the set of compounds A) is first applied to an area of the skin. Then, after a longer or shorter time which can be between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 1 hour, even more preferably between 2 and 10 minutes, the compound C is applied to the same area of the skin.
- the condensation of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) may have occurred spontaneously, or have been triggered, before the application of the compound C.
- the compound C can then react on the condensate through the free capture function (s) on the condensate.
- Compound C can also react with one or more reactive functions different from the capture functions, in particular with reactive functions that could have participated in the reaction of A with itself but unreacted.
- the compound A is an organosilane carrying a capture function
- the compound C can react on the capture function as well as on uncondensed silanols of the condensate.
- a chemical reaction then occurs, with the formation of covalent bonds between C and one or more reactive functions, more particularly with the capture functions F A present on the condensate of compound A or of the set of compounds A.
- This may have the effect to modify the material on and / or in the skin.
- This reaction can in particular make the condensate insoluble and thus further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, or even reinforcing, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C.
- the invention can be implemented with the use of processes accelerating or inhibiting the reactions used in the invention and / or the diffusion of the molecules in the skin, for example heat or cold, microwaves, agents pH or catalysts. It is also possible to act from the surface of the skin on the reaction between compound C and the compound or set of compound A, for example to control or make it faster.
- the compound A is first applied and then the condensation reaction of A is expected to take place. This may be fast or slow, whether or not to involve drying the skin, whether or not to involve activation with, for example, use of a heat source or other energy source.
- the compound C can be allowed to react with the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is also possible to activate the reaction between A and C. After reaction between A and C, rinse or not.
- the compound A is applied in a form or under conditions that do not allow the condensation reaction.
- Compound A is expected to enter.
- the reaction is triggered, either by adding an adjuvant (for example a pH agent) or by changing the conditions, for example by changing the temperature (in particular by increasing it).
- an adjuvant for example a pH agent
- compound C is applied as before.
- the compound A or the set of compounds is applied, and then the compound C is applied under conditions where the capture reaction can not take place. The condensation takes place. Once condensation has begun, the reaction of compound C on the condensate of A.
- the compounds A and C are mixed before application to the skin (extemporaneous mixture). This mixture can be done before application or during application on the skin (mixture directly on the area of the skin to be treated).
- Compound A (or the set of compounds A) and compound C can therefore be applied concomitantly.
- the compounds A and C are chosen so that the presence of C does not prevent the condensation of A; or
- the compounds A and C and / or the conditions of implementation are chosen so that the condensation of A is faster than the reaction of C; or
- the compound A can condense whereas the compound C can not react.
- the reaction of C is triggered by a subsequent action or automatically, for example by changing pH, temperature or by applying a light source.
- the result of the condensation of A on the skin is applied.
- a film of poly APTES can be applied.
- Compound C is then applied.
- compound C is first applied and then compound A is applied.
- compound A or the set of compounds A
- compound C or the compound C into the skin.
- compound A (or set of compounds A) can be injected, then compound C is applied, or compound A (or combination of compounds A) is applied and then compound C is injected, or injects the compounds A (or the set of compounds A) and C.
- the invention serves for example to create a new tattoo mode.
- Compound A is injected.
- a compound C can be applied, by reaction with the capture function, to give a decorative pattern.
- compositions are, for example, in the form of a serum, a lotion, a direct (O / W) emulsion (E / H) or multiple (H / E / H and E / H / E), a stick or a compact product.
- They can use compartmentalization systems (two incompatible solvents, encapsulation). These systems make it possible, for example, to place in the same product compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C by limiting their interaction.
- Compound A, or the set of Compound A, and Compound C may be formulated in compositions containing a physiologically acceptable medium. These compositions may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used in the intended application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the components and optional additional ingredients and / or active agents, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the Compound C, are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition contemplated.
- compositions used according to the invention are aqueous compositions.
- compositions containing compound C used for dyeing the skin may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
- This composition may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or in the form of a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- an emulsion simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W)
- cream, milk or in the form of a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
- the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to the known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965), FR). 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
- the compound C is DHA.
- DHA DHA
- the latter may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
- the self-tanning compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, milks, gels, gel-creams, oil-in-water emulsions, vesicular dispersions, fluid lotions, in particular vaporizable fluid lotions. or any other form generally used in cosmetics, in particular those that are usually suitable for self-tanning cosmetic compositions.
- compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers , emollients, silicones, ⁇ -hydroxyacids, anti-foam agents, moisturizers, vitamins, insect repellents, substance P antagonists, anti-inflammatories, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkanizing or acidifying agents, and additional dyes (in addition to compound C used according to the invention), or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field , in particular for the manufacture of self-tanning compositions in the form of emulsions.
- conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizer
- compositions containing A may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions.
- the fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof.
- oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature.
- wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
- oils mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, acids or fatty esters (such as the benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols sold under the trade name Finsolv TN by the company Fmetex, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, silicone (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated esters and fatty ethers, and polyalkylenes and mixtures thereof. carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
- organic solvents mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols having at most 8 carbon atoms.
- the thickeners may be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Additional dyes can be used to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.
- These additional dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
- dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type, such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
- red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
- the following dyes may be mentioned:
- CTFA tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21 Phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 or Red 27
- CTFA dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
- CTFA the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
- erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
- These additional dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.
- additional dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-patent.
- B-0425324 ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole);
- the additional coloring agents may also be iron oxide pigments with an average particle size of less than 100 nm such as those described in patent application EP 966 953.
- compositions containing a photoprotective agent (or filter), care composition containing a photoprotective agent (or filter), care composition
- compositions comprising a compound C used for photoprotection or skin care may be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that the galenic and active forms described below can be used for the formulation of compound A, whatever the cosmetic application sought.
- the compositions used according to the invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, silicone, antifoaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any another ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
- These cosmetic adjuvants may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions.
- the fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or mixtures thereof.
- oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature.
- wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
- oils mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as benzoate C alcohols 12 -Ci5 sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or “Witconol TN” by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by the company ISP, the palmitate of octyl, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylenated or
- waxy compounds mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL.
- organic solvents mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
- hydrophilic thickeners mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Cn-n isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMUL
- lipophilic thickeners of synthetic polymers such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6” by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name.
- compositions used for the photoprotection or care of the skin according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. .
- They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel ; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- compositions used according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
- the emulsification methods that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP type. It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800b), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes of up to 100 nm.
- the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
- the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
- emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldsch
- co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters.
- Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
- glycerol and / or sorbitan esters examples include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
- emulsifiers of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names
- APG alkylpolyglucosides
- the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.
- the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
- the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams, or more. less creamy, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
- compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the scalp in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.
- the devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).
- compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the compositions used according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
- agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts;
- Moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol.
- composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.
- ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.
- At least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.
- compositions used according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional ingredient intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or to provide an immediate visual effect; mention may in particular be made of mattifying agents, effect fillers bloomer, fluorescers, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers.
- compositions of the invention To complement and / or optimize the effects conferred by the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents mentioned above on keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate other additional ingredients in the compositions of the invention.
- these additional ingredients may confer an immediate visual effect that will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above. They can also, through a mechanical action (ex: abrasvies), amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above.
- Matifying agent means agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy.
- the matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection.
- a value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.
- the matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH as in particular the product sold under the trade name "FARMAL CS 3650 PLUS 036500" by National Starch, kaolinite talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders , silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders mixed amorphous silicate powders, silicate particles, and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
- mattifying agents that may be mentioned include:
- starch from rice or maize, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch,
- - fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
- microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by Expancel under the names Expancel 551®,
- Polyamide powders such as, for example, Arkema's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1, 54; silica powders, for example Silica powders; SB 150 Miyoshi beads, 5 microns in average size and refractive index 1.45,
- polytetrafluoroethylene powders such as Clariant ceridust 9205F PTFE with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.36,
- silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145A having a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41,
- methyl poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or Micropearl M100® and F80 particles.
- ED® from the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, wax powders such as paraffin wax microease particles 1 14S of micropowders with a mean size of 7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54
- polyethylene powders especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48). )
- elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
- Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100”, “KSP” and “KSP-100". "-101”, “SP-102”, “KSP-103”, “SP-104", "KSP-105" by SHIN ETSU, and
- talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders such as those sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals,
- silica powders such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700” marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SU SPHEPvE®”, “SUNSPHERE® H33”, “SUNSPHERE® H53” marketed by ASAHI GLASS, amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H-33” and "SA Sunsphere® H-53” marketed by ASAHI GLASS;
- amorphous mixed silicate powders in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name “NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo.
- polyamide (nylon®) powders such as for example "PORGASOL® 4000” marketed by Arkema, and
- acrylic polymer powders in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD® LH85” marketed by WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, “DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER” marketed by Dow Corning, or “Ganzpearl® GMP-0820” marketed by Ganz Chemical; of allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example "POLY-PORE® L200" or “POLY-PORE® E200” marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP® 6603" marketed from Dow Corning;
- silicate particles such as alumina silicate
- mixed silicate particles such as:
- magnesium aluminum silicate particles such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulphate marketed under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;
- magnesium silicate complex hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Matipure® by Lucas Meyer, and
- an extract of pumpkin seeds a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.
- These fillers can be any material that can modify wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and mask them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
- porous silica microparticles for example Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 with a mean size of 5 ⁇ and Asahi Glass's SUNSPHERES® H series, such as H33 and H51 with sizes of 3.5 and 5 ⁇ respectively; .
- silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849, silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE Silicone medium size 4.5 ⁇ .
- acrylic copolymers in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 ⁇ m, and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®.
- wax powders such as paraffin wax micro loase® 114S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 ⁇ m.
- powders of polyethylenes in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of ⁇ .
- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®,
- talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders for example the Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst & Chemical.
- talc talc
- mica kaolin
- lauryl glycine starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate , barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
- synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
- spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning.
- abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
- the fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders.
- the charge can be a "soft focus" charge.
- soft-focus load we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
- the "soft-focus” charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
- the "soft-focus” fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
- silica and silicate powders in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders.
- PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
- talc silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites
- powders polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
- talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns, and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc.
- Nylon® 12 powder in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem
- silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% such as those sold by the company Degussa
- amorphous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass
- silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi
- concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions used according to the invention may also comprise an agent promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin.
- an agent promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin we can mention in particular:
- a self-tanning agent that is to say an agent which, applied on the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of a more or less similar appearance to that which may result from an exposure prolonged in the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp;
- an additional coloring agent that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants.
- Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment;
- Examples of self-tanning agents include:
- DHA dihydoxyacetone
- alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates are examples of alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates.
- the self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used.
- DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
- the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.
- These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
- dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
- red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806.
- the following dyes may be mentioned:
- CTFA tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21
- CTFA dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
- CTFA the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
- erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
- dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.
- dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-B patent.
- exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
- exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin.
- beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.
- Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract), strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akancies), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.
- peach kernel powder As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly, or kit, comprising at least:
- a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound or set of compound A as described above;
- composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound C as described above.
- the assembly according to the invention can thus be composed of a two-compartment system. It may also correspond to a set comprising the first composition in a first galenic form (for example a cream containing the compound or set of compounds A) is the second composition in a second galenic form (for example a roll-on system, a spray, ...)
- a cosmetic assembly may be useful when components of the first and second compositions exhibit instability (whether physical or chemical) when they are mixed, or when it is desired to avoid that the compound or set of compounds A and the compound C can act between them before application to the skin.
- the stability of the DHA can be substantially improved, for example.
- the cosmetic assembly comprises:
- a first composition comprising a compound A or a set of compounds A as defined above, the function F A being a primary amine function (the compound A being more particularly the APTES); and
- a second composition comprising DHA.
- a poly APTES film is formed in a PETRI dish by depositing therein about 6 mL of the formulation described in Table 1 below. After drying and forming a film in the Petri dish, a few drops of the formulation of Table 2 are then deposited.
- Example 2 Formulations Comprising Free Amino Alkoxysilane (A) and DHA (C) - Demonstration of Improved Color Enhancement and Color Intensity Table 1: Formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane
- the inventors are applied side by side (in the form of spots) on the arm of a user of the formulations according to the following modalities:
- the desired properties of persistence and resistance to the cosmetic effect can be improved by the insolubilization of the deposit obtained by applying a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine on the Poly APTES film obtained from an alkoxysilane having a primary amine function.
- Example 4 Obtaining a fluorescent effect
- the APTES formulation of Table 1 is applied to a portion of the skin. A solution of 1% hydroxycitronellal in ethanol is then applied. Surprisingly, the treated area has fluorescence under UV. The same effect was observed after application of nonalal.
- Example 6 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a UV-screening Compound (C)
- the formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
- Example 7 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and an Anti-Dandruff Active (C)
- the formulation containing a free amino function alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
- Example 8 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Skin Care Active (c)
- the formulation containing an alkoxysilane having a free amino function is that of Table 1 above.
- Table 6 Formulation Containing Vitamin C
- Example 9 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Conditioning Polymer (C)
- the formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment method involving a compound, or set of compounds, capable of condensing in situ.
Description
PROCEDE DE TRAITEMENT COSMETIQUE IMPLIQUANT UN COMPOSE APTE A COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS INVOLVING A COMPOUND APTE A
CONDENSER IN SITU CONDENSER IN SITU
La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau impliquant un composé, ou ensemble de composés, apte à condenser in situ. The present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process involving a compound, or set of compounds, capable of condensing in situ.
En cosmétique, on confère des propriétés particulières (par exemple optiques, mécaniques, et/ou tactiles) à la peau. Cependant, l'un des problèmes majeurs en cosmétique est de conférer ces propriétés particulières de façon rapide et durable. L'homme de l'art peut notamment être confronté aux problèmes suivants : In cosmetics, particular properties (for example optical, mechanical, and / or tactile) are conferred on the skin. However, one of the major problems in cosmetics is to confer these particular properties quickly and sustainably. Those skilled in the art may especially be confronted with the following problems:
il est possible de déposer sur la surface de la peau des ingrédients qui modifient l'aspect de la peau de façon immédiate (pigments, colorants) mais qui, n'ayant pas ou peu d'affinité avec la peau, ne sont pas tenaces et partent au premier lavage. it is possible to deposit on the surface of the skin ingredients that modify the appearance of the skin immediately (pigments, dyes) but which, having little or no affinity with the skin, are not stubborn and leave for the first wash.
il est alternativement possible de déposer sur la peau des produits qui vont réagir avec les constituants de la peau pour la modifier. Dans ce cas, la propriété conférée est tenace et disparaît progressivement par le phénomène naturel de desquamation, mais, en contrepartie, l'ingrédient déposé doit diffuser dans les différents compartiments de la peau pour finalement atteindre les sites réactifs (protéines, lipides cutanés) et l'apparition de la propriété est alors retardée et peut prendre plusieurs heures. alternatively it is possible to deposit on the skin products that will react with the constituents of the skin to modify it. In this case, the property conferred is stubborn and gradually disappears by the natural phenomenon of desquamation, but, in return, the deposited ingredient must diffuse into the different compartments of the skin to finally reach the reactive sites (proteins, skin lipids) and the appearance of the property is then delayed and may take several hours.
Une des illustrations de cette problématique est rencontrée dans le cas des personnes qui désirent corriger des dyschromies cutanées et utilisent dans ce but des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques qui confèrent une homogénéité, un éclat du teint et/ou une bonne mine. One of the illustrations of this problem is encountered in the case of people who wish to correct skin dyschromias and use for this purpose cosmetic or dermatological compositions that confer homogeneity, a radiance of the complexion and / or good appearance.
A ces fins, il est possible d'utiliser des produits couvrants qui, bien que dissimulant les imperfections cutanées, présentent l'inconvénient majeur de masquer l'aspect naturel de la peau (sensation de masque) et ne sont pas tenaces, les pigments étant élués au premier lavage. Il est aussi connu d'utiliser des produits contenant de la dihydroxyacétone (ou DHA) qui, en conférant un aspect hâlé (ou en d'autres termes conférant une "bonne mine"), permet de dissimuler les imperfections cutanées. Cependant, le mécanisme d'action de la DHA sur la peau est relativement long. En conséquence, l'effet de coloration de la peau n'est visible qu'à partir de 4 heures après application. De ce fait, le développement du procédé est limité car la plupart des personnes souhaitent appliquer leur produit le matin et avoir un résultat visible dans l'heure qui suit. Un résultat coloriel qui évolue pendant 4 heures peut poser des
problèmes à ceux qui ne souhaitent pas que leur entourage s'aperçoive que leur peau est colorée grâce à l'emploi de produits cosmétiques. For these purposes, it is possible to use covering products which, although concealing cutaneous imperfections, have the major disadvantage of masking the natural appearance of the skin (mask sensation) and are not stubborn, the pigments being eluted at the first wash. It is also known to use products containing dihydroxyacetone (or DHA) which, by imparting a tanned appearance (or in other words conferring a "good look"), can hide the skin imperfections. However, the mechanism of action of DHA on the skin is relatively long. As a result, the coloring effect of the skin is only visible from 4 hours after application. Therefore, the development of the process is limited because most people want to apply their product in the morning and have a visible result within one hour. A color result that evolves for 4 hours can pose problems for those who do not want their entourage to realize that their skin is colored through the use of cosmetics.
Il est connu, pour augmenter la cinétique de révélation de couleur, d'associer la DHA à des acides aminés. Dans ce cas, une coloration sur la peau est visible en 1 heure environ, mais cette coloration n'est pas tenace et disparaît au premier lavage. It is known, to increase the kinetics of color development, to associate DHA with amino acids. In this case, a coloration on the skin is visible in about 1 hour, but this coloration is not stubborn and disappears in the first wash.
Il n'est par conséquent pas possible pour le moment de proposer une composition cosmétique permettant de conférer de façon rapide (environ une heure) et tenace (par exemple avec une rémanence de 2 à 5 jours) un changement coloriel à la peau. It is therefore not possible for the moment to propose a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to impart a color change to the skin in a rapid (approximately one hour) and tenacious (for example with a persistence of 2 to 5 days) manner.
Ce problème lié à l'utilisation de produits colorants est également rencontré de manière plus ou moins marquée dans toutes les applications cosmétiques cutanées. La demande de brevet FR2929112 décrit la mise en oeuvre de l'association d'alcoxysilanes à groupement solubilisant et d'au moins un dérivé cyclanone en coloration capillaire. Cependant, à la connaissance de la Demanderesse, rien dans l'état de la technique ne divulgue la possibilité d'utiliser un composé capable de se condenser in situ, c'est-à-dire dans ou sur la peau, dans un procédé de traitement cosmétique permettant de conférer de façon localisée, rapide et tenace une propriété particulière à la peau. This problem related to the use of dyestuffs is also encountered to a greater or lesser extent in all skin cosmetic applications. The patent application FR2929112 describes the implementation of the combination of alkoxysilanes with solubilizing group and at least one cyclanone derivative in capillary coloration. However, to the knowledge of the Applicant, nothing in the state of the art discloses the possibility of using a compound capable of condensing in situ, that is to say in or on the skin, in a method of Cosmetic treatment for conferring a localized, fast and tenacious property on the skin.
De manière surprenante, la Demanderesse a montré qu'il était possible de former dans les couches superficielles de la peau ou sur la peau un condensât conférant à la peau une propriété de capture de composés d'intérêt cosmétique. Cette couche dite de "capture" est formée par condensation in situ d'au moins un composé ou ensemble de composé A qui sera décrit par la suite. Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that it is possible to form in the surface layers of the skin or on the skin a condensate conferring on the skin a property of capturing compounds of cosmetic interest. This so-called "capture" layer is formed by in situ condensation of at least one compound or set of compound A which will be described later.
De manière particulièrement surprenante, la Demanderesse a également pu montrer que de très bon résultats cosmétiques pouvaient être obtenus lorsque les composés d'intérêt cosmétique (appelés C par la suite) sont choisis de manière à ce qu'ils diminuent la solubilité dans l'eau du condensât de A (encore appelé par la suite "matériau issu de la condensation de A"). In a particularly surprising way, the Applicant has also been able to show that very good cosmetic results could be obtained when the compounds of cosmetic interest (hereinafter called C) are chosen so that they reduce the solubility in water condensate of A (hereinafter referred to as "material resulting from the condensation of A").
Les propriétés avantageuses obtenues grâce au procédé selon l'invention sont notamment:
- une accélération de la cinétique d'action du composé d'intérêt cosmétique,The advantageous properties obtained by the process according to the invention are in particular: an acceleration of the kinetics of action of the compound of cosmetic interest,
- une amélioration de la durabilité de l'effet cosmétique de l'ingrédient, an improvement in the durability of the cosmetic effect of the ingredient,
- l'apparition d'une propriété cosmétique inattendue sur la peau. Un objet de la présente invention concerne donc un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau, comprenant l'application sur la peau : - the appearance of an unexpected cosmetic property on the skin. An object of the present invention therefore relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising the application on the skin:
d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation ; et a compound or set of compounds A capable (s) to condense in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation; and
d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA- a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A -
La demanderesse a en effet pu démontrer que l'application de ces deux types de composés sur la peau permet de conférer des propriétés cosmétiques localisées, rapides et tenaces. La couche de capture est formée in situ dans les couches superficielles de la peau par condensation d'un composé ou d'un ensemble de composés A. The Applicant has in fact been able to demonstrate that the application of these two types of compounds on the skin makes it possible to confer localized, rapid and tenacious cosmetic properties. The capture layer is formed in situ in the superficial layers of the skin by condensation of a compound or a set of compounds A.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation, en tant qu'agent de capture sur ou dans la peau d'un composé d'intérêt cosmétique. The subject of the invention is also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, as a capture agent on or in the skin of a compound of cosmetic interest.
L'invention a donc également pour objet l'utilisation d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation, pour la capture sur ou dans la peau d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA. The subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capture on or in the skin of the skin. a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A.
Selon des formes particulières de réalisation des procédés, utilisations et ensembles selon l'invention, le matériau issu de la condensation de A est soluble dans l'eau et le composé C d'intérêt cosmétique est choisi de manière à ce que la réaction dudit composé C sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A conduise à une diminution de la solubilité dudit matériau dans l'eau.
Selon un autre aspect, l'invention concerne un procédé pour insolubiliser un condensât dans la peau, comprenant l'application sur la peau : According to particular embodiments of the methods, uses and assemblies according to the invention, the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water and the compound C of cosmetic interest is chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A lead to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water. In another aspect, the invention relates to a method for insolubilizing a condensate in the skin, comprising applying to the skin:
d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation ; et a compound or set of compounds A capable (s) to condense in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation; and
- d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA, a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive functional group Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A ,
le matériau issu de la condensation de A étant soluble dans l'eau, et the material resulting from the condensation of A being soluble in water, and
C étant choisi de manière à ce que la réaction dudit composé C sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A conduise à une diminution de la solubilité dudit matériau dans l'eau. C being chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A leads to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
L'invention a également pour objet un procédé pour diminuer la solubilité (voire insolubiliser) sur ou dans la peau le matériau issu de la condensation d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) a condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation, ledit matériau étant soluble dans l'eau, comprenant l'application sur ledit matériau d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison chimique qui peut être covalente ou ionique, par réaction avec la fonction FA, C étant choisi de manière à ce que la réaction dudit composé C sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A conduise à une diminution de la solubilité dudit matériau dans l'eau. The subject of the invention is also a process for reducing the solubility (or even insolubilizing) on or in the skin of the material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of condensing in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, said material being soluble in water, comprising the application on said material of a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a chemical bond which may be covalent or ionic by reaction with the function F A , C being chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A leads to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
Un objet de l'invention concerne également un procédé pour obtenir sur ou dans la peau un condensât insoluble présentant des propriétés cosmétiques, comprenant l'application sur la peau : An object of the invention also relates to a method for obtaining on or in the skin an insoluble condensate having cosmetic properties, comprising the application on the skin:
d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation ; et a compound or set of compounds A capable (s) to condense in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation; and
d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente ou ionique par réaction avec la fonction FA, le matériau issu de la condensation de A étant soluble dans l'eau, et a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A , the material resulting from the condensation of A being soluble in water, and
C étant choisi de manière à ce que la réaction dudit composé C sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A conduise à une diminution de la solubilité dudit matériau dans l'eau. C being chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A leads to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'un composé C pour diminuer la solubilité (voire insolubiliser) d'un matériau issu de la condensation d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) a condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après
condensation, ledit matériau étant soluble dans l'eau, C étant un composé d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente ou ionique par réaction avec la fonction FA. La demanderesse a en effet pu démontrer que l'application de ces deux types de composés sur la peau permet de conférer des propriétés cosmétiques localisées, rapides et tenaces. La diminution de la solubilité du matériau issu de la condensation de A permet par ailleurs d'augmenter encore sa rémanence sur et/ou dans la peau (tenue à l'eau, à la sueur, au sébum,..) tout en maintenant, voire en renforçant, la propriété cosmétique conférée par le composé C. The invention also relates to the use of a compound C to reduce the solubility (or insolubilize) of a material resulting from the condensation of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least a reactive function F A free after condensation, said material being soluble in water, C being a compound of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent or ionic bond by reaction with the function F A. The Applicant has in fact been able to demonstrate that the application of these two types of compounds on the skin makes it possible to confer localized, rapid and tenacious cosmetic properties. The decrease in the solubility of the material resulting from the condensation of A makes it possible moreover to further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, even strengthening, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C.
Chaque élément de l'invention va maintenant être décrit en détails. Each element of the invention will now be described in detail.
Dans le cadre de la présente invention, le terme "peau" décrit la peau ou le cuir chevelu. In the context of the present invention, the term "skin" describes the skin or the scalp.
Selon un premier mode particulier de réalisation, un composé A apte à condenser in situ est utilisé. Dans ce mode de réalisation, le composé A doit comprendre au moins deux fonctions réactives: une fonction permettant au composé A de se condenser sur lui-même et au moins une fonction réactive FA dite de capture, ou une fonction conduisant à la formation d'une fonction FA après condensation. According to a first particular embodiment, a compound A capable of condensing in situ is used. In this embodiment, the compound A must comprise at least two reactive functions: a function allowing the compound A to condense on itself and at least one reactive function F A called capture, or a function leading to the formation of a function F A after condensation.
Selon un second mode de réalisation, un ensemble de composés A est utilisé. Ce mode de réalisation comprend la mise en oeuvre d'au moins deux molécules capables de condenser entre elles. Dans ce cas, et selon l'invention, les molécules constituant l'ensemble de composés doivent comprendre une (ou des) fonction(s) permettant une condensation de l'ensemble A, et une (ou des) fonction(s) permettant la présence d'une fonction réactive FA de capture après condensation. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, la (ou les) fonction(s) FA est présente sur l'un seulement des composés de l'ensemble de composés A. Dans un autre mode de réalisation, la (ou les) fonction(s) réactives est présente sur au moins deux composés de l'ensemble de composés. According to a second embodiment, a set of compounds A is used. This embodiment comprises the implementation of at least two molecules capable of condensing with each other. In this case, and according to the invention, the molecules constituting the set of compounds must comprise one (or more) function (s) allowing condensation of the set A, and one (or more) function (s) allowing the presence of a reactive function F A capture after condensation. According to a particular embodiment, the function (s) F A is present on only one of the compounds of the set of compounds A. In another embodiment, the function (s) ) reactive is present on at least two compounds of the set of compounds.
En d'autres termes, avec un ensemble de composés A constitué des molécules Al et A2, A2 peut ne pas contenir de fonction de capture. Dans ce cas, soit le Al présente des fonctions de capture, soit celles-ci apparaissent à l'issue de la réaction de condensation. Alternativement, le
composé A2 peut contenir des fonctions de capture. Dans ce cas, le composé Al peut ne contenir aucune fonction de capture. In other words, with a set of compounds A consisting of Al and A2 molecules, A2 may not contain a capture function. In this case, either Al has capture functions, or these appear at the end of the condensation reaction. Alternatively, the A2 compound can contain capture functions. In this case, the compound Al may contain no capture function.
A titre illustratif, on peut représenter la condensation de l'ensemble de composés A de la manière suivante. As an illustration, the condensation of the set of compounds A can be represented in the following manner.
Ensemble de composés A comprenant deux composés: Al et A2 Set of compounds A comprising two compounds: Al and A2
- 1er cas: Al comprend une fonction de capture (composé FA-A1); pas A2 produit de la condensation: ...A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ... - 1st case: Al includes a capture function (compound F A -A1); A2 does not produce condensation: ... A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ...
FA FA FA FA FA FA
- 2eme cas: Al et A2 comprennent une fonction de capture (identiques ou différentes) - 2nd case: Al and A2 comprise a capture function (identical or different)
(composé FA- Al et composé FV-A1) (compound F A - Al and compound FV-A1)
F ' A F ' A produit de la condensation: ...A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ... F 'A F' A produces condensation: ... A1 -A2 -A1 -A2 -A1 ...
I I I I I I
FA FA FA FA FA FA
Il est entendu que cet exemple schématique particulièrement simplifié n'est présenté qu'à titre illustratif et ne doit pas être considéré comme limitant l'invention. It is understood that this particularly simplified schematic example is presented for illustrative purposes only and should not be considered as limiting the invention.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, le procédé selon l'invention comprend: According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises:
l'application sur la peau d'un composé A apte à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation ; et the application on the skin of a compound A capable of condensing in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation; and
l'application d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA.
La description des fonctions de condensation et de capture sera faite par la suite en faisant référence à A, qui désignera indifféremment un composé A ou un ensemble de composés A (par exemple Al + A2) décrits ci-desssus. the application of a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A. The description of the condensation and capture functions will be made hereinafter with reference to A, which will indifferently denote a compound A or a set of compounds A (for example Al + A2) described above.
La ou les fonctions de capture doivent être au moins en partie libres après condensation de A pour pouvoir réagir avec le composé C. Alternativement, la ou les fonctions de capture peuvent ne pas exister ou ne pas être sous forme libre dans le composé ou ensemble de composés A mais apparaître ou devenir libres à l'issue de sa condensation. Il peut s'agir par exemple de fonctions aminés primaires qui pourraient apparaître suite à l'action d'enzyme naturellement présente sur la peau. The capture function (s) must be at least partly free after condensation of A to react with the compound C. Alternatively, the capture function (s) may not exist or be in free form in the compound or set of compounds A but appear or become free at the end of its condensation. It may be, for example, primary amine functions that could appear following the action of enzyme naturally present on the skin.
De façon préférée, les fonctions de capture libres après condensation doivent se trouver en proportion telle que Fcapt/A > 0,1 et préférentiellement > 0,5 , Fcapt et A représentant respectivement les quantités en nombre de fonctions de capture libres après condensation et de molécules de A. Autrement dit, il existe après condensation au moins une fonction de capture libre pour 10 molécules de A, de préférence au moins 5 fonctions de capture libres. Preferably, the free capture functions after condensation must be in proportion such that Fcapt / A> 0.1 and preferably> 0.5, Fcapt and A respectively represent the quantities in number of free capture functions after condensation and of In other words, there exists after condensation at least one free capture function for 10 molecules of A, preferably at least 5 free capture functions.
Les fonctions de capture FA du composé ou ensemble de composés A sont typiquement choisies parmi les aminés et les autres fonctions nucléophiles, telles que les fonctions hydroxyles, thiols, sulfates et phosphates. Préférentiellement, il s'agit d'amines ; préférentiellement, des aminés primaires. The FA capture functions of the compound or set of compounds A are typically selected from amines and other nucleophilic functions, such as hydroxyl, thiol, sulphate and phosphate functions. Preferentially, it is amines; preferentially, primary amines.
La condensation de A peut provenir de la réaction d'une espèce nucléophile sur une espèce électrophile. Selon une première alternative, les fonctions de condensation sont typiquement celles permettant la création d'une liaison par élimination d'une molécule d'eau selon l'équation suivante : The condensation of A can come from the reaction of a nucleophilic species on an electrophilic species. According to a first alternative, the condensation functions are typically those allowing the creation of a bond by elimination of a molecule of water according to the following equation:
R-OH + HO-R' ■> R-O-R' + H20 R-OH + HO-R '■> ROR' + H 2 0
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, les composés mis en oeuvre sont des organosilanes. In a particular embodiment, the compounds used are organosilanes.
Selon une seconde alternative, la condensation peut provenir de la réaction d'une espèce par arrachement d'un proton d'une seconde espèce, notamment selon l'une des équations suivantes : According to a second alternative, the condensation can come from the reaction of a species by tearing out a proton of a second species, in particular according to one of the following equations:
R-CH=CH2 + H-R' R-CH2-CH2-R' R-CH = CH 2 + HR 'R-CH 2 -CH 2 -R'
et
R-CH=NH + H-R' R-CH2-NH-R' and R-CH = NH + HR 'R-CH 2 -NH-R'
Dans les équations ci-dessus, R et R' désignent indépendamment les uns des autres n'importe quel groupe d'atomes, étant entendu que le produit de la condensation de A doit comprendre au moins une fonction FA libre. In the above equations, R and R 'denote independently of each other any group of atoms, it being understood that the product of the condensation of A must comprise at least one free FA function.
De façon préférée, la condensation se fait selon la première alternative décrite ci-dessus. Preferably, the condensation is done according to the first alternative described above.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le composé A est un composé organique du silicium comprenant de 1 à 3 atomes de silicium, et au moins deux groupes hydroxyles ou hydrolysables par molécule. Le composé A est donc choisi parmi les organosilanes comprenant un atome de silicium et les organosiloxanes comportant deux ou trois atomes de silicium, de préférence deux atomes de silicium. In a particular embodiment, compound A is an organic silicon compound comprising from 1 to 3 silicon atoms, and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule. Compound A is therefore chosen from organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, le composé A est un organosilane. Le composé A peut notamment être un alcoxysilane, et de préférence un alcoxysilane fonctionnalisé. According to a preferred embodiment, compound A is an organosilane. The compound A may especially be an alkoxysilane, and preferably a functionalized alkoxysilane.
L'ensemble de composés A peut être le mélange d'un composé organique du silicium tel que décrit ci-avant (composé Al) et d'au moins un autre composé (composé A2) tel que l'ensemble comprenant le composé organique du silicium et le composé A2 soit apte à condenser in situ. The set of compounds A may be the mixture of an organic silicon compound as described above (compound A1) and at least one other compound (compound A2) such as the set comprising the organic silicon compound and the compound A2 is capable of condensing in situ.
De façon préférée, le composé A (ou au moins l'une des molécules de l'ensemble de composés A) répond à la formule :
dans laquelle : Preferably, the compound A (or at least one of the molecules of the set of compounds A) has the formula: in which :
R4 représente un halogène, un groupe OR' ou R'j ; R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'j;
R5 représente un halogène, un groupe OR" ou R'2 ; R5 is halogen, OR "or R'2;
Rg représente un halogène, un groupe OR'" ou R'3 ; Rg represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3;
et Rj , R2, R3, R', R", R'", R'j , R'2, R'3 représentent, indépendamment les uns des autres, un groupe hydrocarboné saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, portant éventuellement
des groupes chimiques supplémentaires tels que des groupes acides ou aminés, Rj , R2, R', R" et R'" pouvant en outre désigner l'hydrogène, et and R 1, R 2, R 3, R ', R ", R'", R '1, R' 2, R '3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups such as acidic or amino groups, wherein R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'" may further denote hydrogen, and
deux au moins des groupes R4, R5 et Rg étant différents des groupes R'j , R'2 et R'3. at least two of the groups R4, R5 and Rg being different from the groups R'j, R'2 and R'3.
De préférence, Rj , R2, R', R" et R'", R'j , R'2 et R'3 représentent un groupe alkyle de Cj à Cj 2, un groupe aryle de Cg à C14, un groupe alkyle de Cj à Cg-aryle de Cg à C^, et un groupe aryle de Cg à C^-alkyle Cj à Cg; et R est de préférence un groupe alkyle de Cj à Cj2, aryle de Cg à Cl l, alkyle de Cj à Cg-aryle de Cg à Cj4 et aryle de Cg à C^-alkyle de q à c8. Preferably, R 1, R 2, R ', R "and R'", R '1, R' 2 and R '3 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 2, an aryl group of C 1 to C 14, a group C₁ to C ^ alkyl, C₁ to C ^ alkyl, and C₁ to Cg alkyl, C₁ to C C aryl; and R is preferably an alkyl group of Cj to Cj2, aryl Cg ll -C, alkyl of Cj to Cg-Cg aryl to aryl and CJ4 of Cg to C ^ -alkyl q -C 8.
Les organosiloxanes préférés dans les compositions de la présente invention peuvent être représentés par la formule : Preferred organosiloxanes in the compositions of the present invention may be represented by the formula:
dans laquelle : in which :
Rj , R2, R3, R5 et Rg sont définis comme précédemment; R1, R2, R3, R5 and R8 are defined as above;
R'4 représente un halogène (fluor, brome, chlore ou iode) ou un groupe ORj j ; R'4 represents a halogen (fluorine, bromine, chlorine or iodine) or a group ORj j;
R7 représente un halogène, un groupe ORJ Q OU R" J ; R7 represents a halogen, a group ORJ Q OR R "J;
Rg représente un halogène, un groupe ORg, R' 2 ou R NRJR2; Rg represents a halogen, a group ORg, R '2 or R NRJR2;
R" j , R' 2, Rg, R10 et Ri j représentent un groupe hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, portant éventuellement des groupes chimiques supplémentaires tels que des groupes solubilisants basiques; R "j, R '2, Rg, R10 and Ri j represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups such as basic solubilizing groups;
R\ \ , RJ O et Rg pouvant en outre désigner l'hydrogène. R \, RJ O and Rg may further designate hydrogen.
De préférence R"j , R'^, Rg ou RJ Q et Rj j représentent un groupe alkyle de Cj à Cj2, un groupe aryle de Cg à C^, un groupe alkyle de Cj à Cg-aryle de Cg à C^, et un groupe aryle de Cg à C^-alkyle de C j à Cg. Preferably, R 1, R 1, R 2 or R 2 and R 5 represent an alkyl group of C 1 to C 12, a C 6 to C 6 aryl group, a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group of C 1 to C 6 alkyl, and a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl aryl group of C 1 to C 6.
L'un au moins des groupes Rg, Ry et Rg désigne un halogène ou un groupe OR'", ORI Q OU ORg.
De préférence, l'halogène est le chlore. At least one of Rg, Ry and Rg is a halogen or a group OR '', ORI Q OR ORg. Preferably, the halogen is chlorine.
Une classe particulièrement préférée de composés organiques du silicium est constituée des composés de formule : A particularly preferred class of organic silicon compounds is compounds of the formula:
¾N ( CH2). - Si— OR ¾N (CH 2 ). - Si- OR
" X°R " X ° R
dans laquelle les radicaux R, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux alkyles en Cj-Cg tels que méthyle, éthyle, propyle, butyle et n est un nombre entier de 1 à 6, de préférence de 2 à 4. En particulier, le composé A est un alcoxysilane comprenant au moins une fonction de capture nucléophile, et en particulier le γ-aminopropyl triéthoxysilane, dénommé APTES dans la suite de ce texte, ou un de ses dérivés. wherein the radicals R, identical or different, are chosen from alkyl radicals C j C₆ alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. In particular compound A is an alkoxysilane comprising at least one nucleophilic capture function, and in particular γ-aminopropyl triethoxysilane, referred to as APTES in the rest of this text, or a derivative thereof.
Le composé A2 susceptible d'être impliqué dans le procédé selon la présente invention, lorsqu'un ensemble de composés A est appliqué sur la peau, peut par exemple répondre à la même définition que le composé A donnée ci-dessus. Le composé A2 peut notamment être choisi parmi les molécules ayant la capacité de former une liaison Si-O-Si. A titre illustratif, on peut citer le méthyl-triéthoxysilane (MTES). A est choisi de sorte que la condensation ne s'effectue qu'une fois qu'il a atteint la zone où cette condensation doit avoir lieu. Par exemple, le composé A peut être très réactif, et sa condensation se faire à la surface de la peau. Alternativement, la condensation peut se faire une fois que le composé A a pénétré dans la peau de façon plus ou moins profonde. De manière générale, le composé A, ou l'ensemble de composés A, est soluble dans l'eau du fait des fonctions réactives qu'il comprend. Compte tenu de ces propriétés, le matériau issu de la condensation de A est également généralement soluble dans l'eau. The compound A2 capable of being involved in the process according to the present invention, when a set of compounds A is applied to the skin, may for example satisfy the same definition as the compound A given above. The compound A2 can in particular be chosen from molecules having the capacity to form an Si-O-Si bond. As an illustration, mention may be made of methyl triethoxysilane (MTES). A is chosen so that condensation occurs only once it has reached the zone where this condensation is to take place. For example, compound A can be very reactive, and its condensation can be done on the surface of the skin. Alternatively, the condensation can be done once the compound A has penetrated into the skin in a more or less deep way. In general, the compound A, or the set of compounds A, is soluble in water because of the reactive functions which it comprises. Given these properties, the material resulting from the condensation of A is also generally soluble in water.
Le composé d'intérêt cosmétique (composé C) est un composé permettant de conférer au moins une propriété spécifique à la peau, ou un mélange de tels composés, et comprend au moins une fonction chimique Fc susceptible de réagir avec au moins une des fonctions de
capture libres du matériau issu de la condensation du composé A ou de l'ensemble de composés A. The compound of cosmetic interest (compound C) is a compound making it possible to confer at least one specific property on the skin, or a mixture of such compounds, and comprises at least one chemical function Fc that is capable of reacting with at least one of the functions of free capture of the material resulting from the condensation of compound A or the set of compounds A.
Le composé C peut aussi être capable de réagir sur lui-même. Compound C may also be able to react on itself.
A titre de fonctions chimiques Fc susceptibles de réagir avec au moins une des fonctions de capture libres du matériau issu de la condensation du composé A ou de l'ensemble de composés A, on peut citer notamment les atomes d'halogène et les fonctions carbonyles, acides carboxyliques, esters, aminés et hydroxyles. As chemical functions Fc that are capable of reacting with at least one of the free capture functions of the material resulting from the condensation of compound A or of the set of compounds A, mention may be made in particular of halogen atoms and carbonyl functions, carboxylic acids, esters, amines and hydroxyls.
En particulier, ce sont des fonctions incluant un groupe carbonyle. Dans un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, le composé C contient au moins une fonction aldéhyde ou cétone et est susceptible de réagir avec une aminé primaire (représentant la fonction FA du composé ou ensemble de composés A) de la façon suivante :
In particular, these are functions including a carbonyl group. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, compound C contains at least one aldehyde or ketone function and is capable of reacting with a primary amine (representing the function F A of the compound or set of compounds A) as follows:
Le composé C peut être choisi parmi les aldéhydes simples, les aldéhydes conjugués, les aldéhydes aromatiques tels que les benzaldéhydes et les cétones activées, notamment par un groupe attracteur, ou des fonctions de conjugaison. Compound C may be chosen from simple aldehydes, conjugated aldehydes, aromatic aldehydes such as activated benzaldehydes and ketones, in particular by an attractor group, or conjugation functions.
Les fonctions carbonyles peuvent être sous forme énols. Les fonctions carbonyles peuvent également être engagées, comme par exemple dans le cas des acétals, hémiacétals, cétals, et de leurs équivalents soufrés. The carbonyl functions can be in enol form. The carbonyl functions can also be engaged, as for example in the case of acetals, hemiacetals, ketals, and their sulfur equivalents.
Parmi les autres fonctions carbonyles envisageables dans ce cadre, on peut citer par exemple les esters, les halogénures d'acide, les anhydrides, les isocyanates. Among the other carbonyl functional groups that may be envisaged in this context, mention may be made, for example, of esters, acid halides, anhydrides and isocyanates.
Plus généralement, les fonctions Fc du composé C sont typiquement des groupes électroattracteurs et ainsi peuvent être choisis parmi : More generally, the Fc functions of compound C are typically electron-withdrawing groups and thus can be chosen from:
- les époxydes, epoxides,
- les aziridines,
- les fonctions vinyle et vinyle activée, en particulier les fonctions acrylonitrile, ester acrylique et méthacrylique, aziridines, the vinyl and activated vinyl functions, in particular the acrylonitrile, acrylic and methacrylic ester functions,
- les acides et esters crotonique, les acides et esters cinnamiques, le styrène et ses dérivés, le butadiène, crotonic acids and esters, cinnamic acids and esters, styrene and its derivatives, butadiene,
- les éthers de vinyle, les vinylcétones, les esters maléiques, les vinyl sulfones, les maléimides, vinyl ethers, vinyl ketones, maleic esters, vinyl sulfones, maleimides,
- les aminals, les hémi aminals, aminals, hemi amines,
- les alpha-hydroxycétones, les alpha-halocétones, alpha-hydroxyketones, alpha-haloketones,
- les lactones, les thiolactones, lactones, thiolactones,
- les thiocyanates, thiocyanates,
- les imines, - the imines,
- les imides, en particulier le succinimide et le glutimide, imides, in particular succinimide and glutimide,
- les esters de N hydroxysuccinimide, the N-hydroxysuccinimide esters,
- les imidates, - imidates,
- les thiosulfates, thiosulphates,
- les oxazines et oxazolines, oxazines and oxazolines,
- les oxaziniums et oxazoliniums, oxaziniums and oxazoliniums,
- les halogénures d'alkyle ou d'aralkyle de formule RX, avec X = I, Br, Cl, the alkyl or aralkyl halides of formula RX, with X = I, Br, Cl,
- les halogénures de cycle insaturé, carboné ou hétérocycle, notamment les chlorotriazines, les chloropyrimidine, les chloroquiinoxalines et les unsaturated ring, carbon or heterocycle halides, in particular chlorotriazines, chloropyrimidine, chloroquinoxalines and
chlorobenzotriazo le, chlorobenzotriazo
- les halogénures de sulfonyle RS02X avec X=C1 ou F, R étant un alkyle en Cl à C30. the sulfonyl halides RS0 2 X with X = C1 or F, R being a C1 to C30 alkyl.
L'homme du métier connaît parfaitement les fonctions chimiques à utiliser dans le composé ou l'ensemble de composé A à titre de fonction de capture (FA) et susceptibles de réagir avec chacune des fonctions chimiques décrites dans le paragraphe précédent. Those skilled in the art are fully aware of the chemical functions to be used in the compound or the set of compound A as a capture function (F A ) and capable of reacting with each of the chemical functions described in the preceding paragraph.
Le schéma suivant représente le cas où on fait réagir un composé C comprenant une fonction Fc imine sur une fonction de capture aminé primaire.
Entrent aussi dans le cadre de l'invention les composés C qui réagissent avec les fonctions de capture libres après condensation de A par un effet physicochimique tel que la complexation, la formation de sels pouvant cristalliser, la formation de complexes ou de sels insolubles dans l'eau ou la formation de liquides ioniques. The following scheme shows the case where a compound C comprising an Fc imine function is reacted on a primary amine capture function. C compounds which react with the free capture functions after condensation of A by a physicochemical effect such as complexation, the formation of salts which can crystallize, the formation of complexes or salts which are insoluble in the water are also within the scope of the invention. water or the formation of ionic liquids.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, on privilégie les composés C capables de réagir plus d'une fois avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A. Par exemple, on peut citer : In a particular embodiment, preference is given to compounds C capable of reacting more than once with the material resulting from the condensation of A. For example, there may be mentioned:
- des composés C ayant plus d'une fonction réactive (par exemple, un dialdéhyde) ; compounds C having more than one reactive function (for example, a dialdehyde);
- des composés C qui, une fois qu'ils ont réagi avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A, sont transformés et dont le produit de transformation peut encore réagir avec le matériau (par exemple, un anhydride dont une partie est couplée avec la fonction libre de A et l'autre, comprenant une fonction acide carboxylique, peut également réagir avec la fonction libre de A, par exemple une fonction aminé) ; compounds C which, once they have reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, are converted and whose transformation product can still react with the material (for example, an anhydride a part of which is coupled with the free function of A and the other, comprising a carboxylic acid function, may also react with the free function of A, for example an amino function);
- des composés C qui, une fois qu'ils ont réagi avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A, sont transformés et peuvent encore réagir avec une autre molécule C, celle-ci ayant réagi ou non avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A (par exemple la DHA); compounds C which, once they have reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, are converted and can still react with another molecule C, the latter having reacted or not with the material resulting from the condensation of A (for example DHA);
- les composés C qui, une fois qu'ils ont réagi avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A, sont aptes à réagir avec un composé D qui va réagir entre molécules C ou entre molécules C et A. the compounds C which, once they have reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, are capable of reacting with a compound D which will react between C molecules or between C and A molecules.
La section suivante décrit de façon non exhaustive des exemples de propriétés susceptibles d'être conférées à la peau par mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention. The following section describes in a non-exhaustive manner examples of properties that can be conferred on the skin by carrying out the process according to the invention.
L'invention s'applique au traitement de la peau en général. On choisit alors le composé A, ou l'ensemble de composés A, et le composé C en fonction de l'effet recherché sur la peau : The invention applies to the treatment of the skin in general. Compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C are then chosen according to the desired effect on the skin:
- pour modifier sa couleur. On utilise alors typiquement les composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un chromophore. Ou bien on utilise un composé A qui est coloré, ou un ensemble de composés A qui est coloré. Ou bien on utilise un composé A et/ou un composé C qui, incolore, se colore petit à petit. On peut aussi utiliser des composés A et/ou C qui présentent un effet blanchissant, décolorant ou dépigmentant. - to change its color. Compounds A and C are thus typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a chromophore. Either a compound A which is colored or a set of compounds A which is colored is used. Either a compound A and / or a compound C which, colorless, is colored little by little. It is also possible to use compounds A and / or C which have a whitening, bleaching or depigmenting effect.
- pour modifier sa brillance. On utilise alors typiquement les composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau diffusant ou au contraire très lisse. Par exemple C réagit avec le matériau issu de la réaction de A pour donner un dépôt hétérogène qui par effet de diffusion de la lumière diminuera la brillance cutanée.
- pour modifier sa souplesse et/ou son toucher. On utilise alors typiquement les composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau doux au toucher ou un matériau captant ou retenant l'eau, tel qu'un composé hygroscopique. - to change its brightness. Compounds A and C are thus typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or very smooth material. For example, C reacts with the material resulting from the reaction of A to give a heterogeneous deposit which, by a light diffusion effect, will reduce the cutaneous gloss. - to modify its flexibility and / or its touch. Compounds A and C are then typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, provide a soft-touch material or a water-capturing or holding material, such as a hygroscopic compound.
- pour modifier ses propriétés physicochimiques de surface. On utilise alors typiquement les composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau dont les caractéristiques de tension de surface, sont différentes de celles de la peau. Ou alors, on utilise des A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau qui fait occlusion au passage de certaines molécules. to modify its surface physicochemical properties. Compounds A and C are thus typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material whose surface tension characteristics are different from those of the skin. Or, we use A and C which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material that occludes the passage of certain molecules.
- pour retenir des molécules actives. to retain active molecules.
- soit que les molécules C sont actives une fois fixées sur le matériau issu de la réaction de A. On peut alors bénéficier d'un effet prolongé de l'activité de la molécule active. Ainsi, on peut utiliser des filtres pour conférer une photoprotection durable. or that the C molecules are active once fixed on the material resulting from the reaction of A. It can then benefit from a prolonged effect of the activity of the active molecule. Thus, filters can be used to provide durable photoprotection.
- soit que les molécules actives sont desactivées par la fixation mais peuvent être relarguées dans le temps. Dans ce cas, on bénéficie aussi d'une activité prolongée. or that the active molecules are inactivated by fixation but can be salted out in time. In this case, one also benefits from a prolonged activity.
Dans ce cas, on peut utiliser des actifs biologiques ou des parfums. In this case, one can use biological assets or perfumes.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, on peut fixer une molécule active par le biais de l'invention. Les composés A et C sont choisis de façon que le relargage puisse être déclenché, soit par une action naturelle (c'est par exemple le cas d'un relargage déclenché par l'arrivée de la transpiration), soit par une action humaine (c'est le cas d'une irradiation particulière, par exemple lumière (notamment UV, visible) ou encore chaleur. Ainsi, on peut utiliser des composés A et C, tels qu'ils soient dotés d'une liaison fragile, telles que thermo ou photocleavable. In a particular embodiment of the invention, an active molecule can be attached via the invention. The compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), or by a human action (c This is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or heat, so that compounds A and C can be used, such as with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable.
Entrent aussi dans le cadre de l'invention, les précisions et procédés tels que : Also within the scope of the invention, the precisions and methods such as:
- Les composés A et C sont intégrés dans des produits tels que soin, maquillage ou produits particuliers. - Compounds A and C are integrated into products such as skincare, make-up or particular products.
- Les composés A et C peuvent être appliqués en un ou deux temps, avec éventuellement des applications préalables, intermédiaires, ou postérieures de tiers composés. Compounds A and C may be applied in one or two stages, possibly with prior, intermediate or subsequent applications of third compounds.
- Lorsque les composés A et C sont appliqués en un temps, les cinétiques de réaction et de pénétration et les fonctions sont telles que C n'empêche pas la réaction de A sur lui- même. En particulier la réaction de C sur la fonction réactive de A est plus lente que la pénétration de A et/ou plus lente que la réaction de A sur lui-même.
- Les applications de ces composés sont intégrées dans des routines de soin ou de maquillage. Par exemple, l'application du composé A est intégrée dans une routine de préparation de la peau, et l'application du composé C est intégrée dans un fond de teint. Comme nous l'avons vu ci-dessus, les composés ou ensembles de composés A présentent généralement des propriétés de solubilité dans l'eau. Le composé A peut ainsi être véhiculé et pénétrer les premières couches de la peau Ainsi, bien souvent, les matériaux issus de la condensation des composés ou ensembles de composés A gardent une forte solubilité dans l'eau. C'est par exemple le cas lorsque le composé A est un aminoalkylalkoxysilane tel que l'APTES (cf. ci-dessous). Cette solubilité dans l'eau du matériau issu du composé A amoindrit son effet de capture et plus particulièrement la tenue de la capture. When the compounds A and C are applied in a time, the kinetics of reaction and penetration and the functions are such that C does not prevent the reaction of A on itself. In particular the reaction of C on the reactive function of A is slower than the penetration of A and / or slower than the reaction of A on itself. - The applications of these compounds are integrated in skincare or makeup routines. For example, the application of compound A is incorporated into a skin preparation routine, and the application of compound C is incorporated into a foundation. As we have seen above, the compounds or sets of compounds A generally have solubility properties in water. Compound A can thus be transported and penetrate the first layers of the skin. Thus, very often, the materials resulting from the condensation of the compounds or sets of compounds A retain a high solubility in water. This is for example the case when compound A is an aminoalkylalkoxysilane such as APTES (see below). This solubility in water of the material derived from compound A lessens its capture effect and more particularly the holding of the capture.
Il est en théorie envisageable de prendre un composé A qui soit soluble dans l'eau et suffisamment réactif pour donner, après condensation, un composé insoluble dans l'eau. Toutefois, dans la pratique, ceci est difficile car : It is conceivable in theory to take a compound A which is soluble in water and sufficiently reactive to give, after condensation, a water insoluble compound. However, in practice, this is difficult because:
- les fonctions du composé A qui permettront la capture sont préfèrent iellement des fonctions nucléophiles, en particulier des aminés. Or, ces fonctions participent à la solubilité dans l'eau du composé A mais aussi du matériau issu de la réaction du composé A; the functions of compound A which will allow capture are preferably nucleophilic functions, in particular amines. However, these functions contribute to the solubility in water of the compound A but also the material resulting from the reaction of the compound A;
- la réactivité du composé A est préférentiellement choisie pour être modérée afin que le composé A puisse pénétrer plus facilement dans la peau the reactivity of compound A is preferably chosen to be moderate so that compound A can penetrate more easily into the skin
Ainsi, dans un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, on choisit le composés A et le composé C pour que : Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, compound A and compound C are chosen so that:
- le composé C puisse réagir avec le matériau issu de la réaction de A the compound C can react with the material resulting from the reaction of A
- l'application du composé C augmente l'insolubilité dans l'eau du matériau issu de la réaction de A. the application of compound C increases the insolubility in water of the material resulting from the reaction of A.
Pour lui permettre de faire ce choix, l'homme du métier pourra utiliser le procédé pour la sélection des composés A et C adéquats tel que décrit ci-dessous. To enable him to make this choice, the skilled person can use the method for the selection of the appropriate compounds A and C as described below.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, les composés A et C sont choisis de façon que le matériau issu de la condensation de A soit soluble dans l'eau, et une fois que C a réagi avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A, ledit matériau soit insoluble dans l'eau.
On sélectionne les composés A et C de la façon suivante : According to a particular embodiment, the compounds A and C are chosen so that the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water, and once C has reacted with the material resulting from the condensation of A, said material is insoluble in water. Compounds A and C are selected as follows:
a) on applique A dans le milieu aqueux adapté dans une boite de pétri dans des conditions où A peut condenser; a) applying A in the adapted aqueous medium in a petri dish under conditions where A can condense;
b) après évaporation du milieu, on applique le composé C dans des conditions permettant sa réaction avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A; b) after evaporation of the medium, the compound C is applied under conditions allowing its reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A;
c) on mesure alors le poids du matériau issu de la condensation de A ayant réagit avec C; d) on mesure la solubilité dans l'eau du condensât ayant réagi avec le composé C en le mettant dans de l'eau pendant 30 minutes, puis en récupérant la partie non solubilisée et en déterminant la valeur PPA+C qui correspond à la perte de poids du matériau exprimée en pourcentage; une valeur PPx=0 indique une insolubilité totale du matériau testé dans l'eau; une valeur PPX=100% indique une solubilité totale du matériau testé dans l'eau; c) the weight of the material resulting from the condensation of A having reacted with C is then measured; d) the solubility in water of the condensate reacted with the compound C is measured by placing it in water for 30 minutes, then recovering the unsolubilized part and determining the PP A + C value which corresponds to the weight loss of the material expressed as a percentage; a value PP x = 0 indicates complete insolubility of the tested material in water; a PP value X = 100% indicates a total solubility of the tested material in water;
e) on applique également les étape c) et d) au matériau issu de la condensation de A en l'absence de composé C. On mesure ainsi la valeur PPA- f) on compare la valeur PPA+C à la valeur PPA. e) we also apply the steps c) and d) to the material resulting from the condensation of A in the absence of compound C. The value PP A - f is thus measured and the value PP A + C is compared with the value PP A.
Selon ce procédé de sélection, on retient les composés A et C qui permettent d'obtenir une valeur de PPA+C inférieure à la valeur de PPA, car on a insolubilisé A avec ajout de C. According to this selection process, the compounds A and C are retained which make it possible to obtain a value of PP A + C lower than the value of PP A , since A has been insolubilized with the addition of C.
L'homme du métier choisira les composés à mettre en oeuvre dans le procédé selon l'invention selon l'équation: PPA+C = PPA - n, ou encore n = PPA-PPA+C, étant entendu que PPA - n > 0. Il retiendra ainsi plus particulièrement les combinaisons de composés A et C permettant d'obtenir une valeur de n supérieure à 15 %, de préférence n > 30 % et encore plus préférentiellement n > 50%. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, PPA+C est inférieur à 15% et PPA est supérieur à 50%. Those skilled in the art will choose the compounds to be used in the process according to the invention according to the equation: PP A + C = PP A -n, or n = PP A -PP A + C , it being understood that PP A - n> 0. It will thus retain more particularly the combinations of compounds A and C making it possible to obtain a value of n greater than 15%, preferably n> 30% and even more preferentially n> 50%. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, PP A + C is less than 15% and PP A is greater than 50%.
Préférentiellement, le composé A est choisi pour que sa réactivité soit modérée. Le composé A reste sous forme de monomère en majorité, et ne forme pas plus de monomère+dimère+trimère. Preferably, the compound A is chosen so that its reactivity is moderate. Compound A remains in monomer form for the most part, and does not form more monomer + dimer + trimer.
On utilise pour vérifier ce point, le test suivant : We use to check this point, the following test:
- on met A dans les mêmes conditions que celles utilisées au moment de l'application sur la peau;
- on utilise les méthodes analytiques, telles que RMN, IR, etc. pour déterminer le taux de réaction de A dans ces conditions. On en déduit le ratio, par rapport à l'ensemble des entités A, d'entités A ayant réagi : Am; - A is placed under the same conditions as those used at the time of application to the skin; - Analytical methods, such as NMR, IR, etc. are used. to determine the reaction rate of A under these conditions. We deduce the ratio, with respect to all the entities A, of entities A having reacted: A m ;
- préférentiellement selon l'invention, le ratio : Am/A (où ml, 2, 3) est supérieur à 50%, ou encore préférentiellement supérieur à 75%; - Preferably according to the invention, the ratio: A m / A (where ml, 2, 3) is greater than 50%, or more preferably greater than 75%;
- dans le cas où le procédé implique une action sur A avant ou pendant l'application (par exemple un mélange au moment de l'emploi), la détermination analytique est réalisée 5mn après cette action (par exemple, on réalise le mélange au moment de l'emploi puis on fait l'analyse 5 min après). in the case where the process involves action on A before or during the application (for example a mixture at the moment of use), the analytical determination is carried out 5 minutes after this action (for example, mixing is carried out at the moment of the job then the analysis is done 5 minutes later).
Propriétés susceptibles d'être conférées à la peau par le composé C et/ou le composé A. > Couleur Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le procédé selon l'invention est un procédé cosmétique de coloration de la peau, dans lequel le composé C est une molécule susceptible de conférer une couleur à la peau. Properties Which Can Be Conferred on the Skin by Compound C and / or Compound A.> Color In a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention is a cosmetic process for coloring the skin, in which the compound C is a molecule that can give skin color.
Dans la présente invention, la propriété « couleur » désigne au moins un effet coloriel de la peau pouvant être par exemple une augmentation ou un changement de couleur, une modification de la chromaticité, l'apparition de fluorescence, de phosphorescence, de chimio luminescence, de brillance ou un ternissement. In the present invention, the "color" property designates at least one color effect of the skin that may be, for example, an increase or a change in color, a change in the chromaticity, the appearance of fluorescence, phosphorescence, chemiluminescence, shine or tarnishing.
Afin de conférer une propriété de couleur, on utilise typiquement des composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits ci-avant, donnent un chromophore. On peut également utiliser un composé A qui est coloré, et/ou un composé C qui est coloré, ou un composé A et/ou un composé C qui, incolore, se colore petit à petit. On peut aussi utiliser des composés A et/ou C qui présentent un effet blanchissant, décolorant ou dépigmentant. En particulier, la couleur finale peut être plus esthétique que celle qu'aurait donnée le composé C en absence de composé A. Par exemple, elle peut s'accorder mieux au teint de la peau ou donner un aspect plus naturel. Des composés C qui ne donnent aucune couleur dans des applications en dehors de la présente invention donnent dans la présente invention des effets coloriels intéressants.
Le composé C peut être coloré. Dans ce cas, l'invention peut notamment servir à améliorer la tenue de la couleur. Le composé C peut ne pas être coloré. Dans ce cas, l'invention sert à faire apparaître la couleur, et éventuellement donner une tenue à cette couleur. In order to confer a color property, compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a chromophore. It is also possible to use a compound A which is colored, and / or a compound C which is colored, or a compound A and / or a compound C which, colorless, gradually colors. It is also possible to use compounds A and / or C which have a whitening, bleaching or depigmenting effect. In particular, the final color may be more aesthetic than that which would have given compound C in the absence of compound A. For example, it may better match the skin tone or give a more natural appearance. Compounds C which give no color in applications outside the present invention give in the present invention interesting color effects. Compound C can be colored. In this case, the invention can in particular be used to improve the color retention. Compound C may not be colored. In this case, the invention serves to make the color appear, and possibly give an appearance to this color.
Enfin, le composé C peut ne pas être coloré, ni ne donner de coloration par réaction avec le composé A. Dans ce cas, le composé C est choisi pour qu'il puisse donner, par une transformation après application, de façon préalable, concomitante ou postérieure à la réaction avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A, une espèce colorée. En particulier, le composé C peut donner une espèce colorée par réaction d'oxydation. C peut être, dans ce cadre un polyphénol, un composé diaminé, ou un composé hydroxyle aminé. Le composé C peut se transformer naturellement en espèce colorée, ou il est possible de déclencher ou aider la transformation par exemple par ajout d'un oxydant, d'un catalyseur ou d'une enzyme d'oxydation. Finally, the compound C may not be colored or give color by reaction with the compound A. In this case, the compound C is chosen so that it can give, by a transformation after application, a prior, concomitant or posterior to the reaction with the material resulting from the condensation of A, a colored species. In particular, compound C can give a colored species by oxidation reaction. C may be, in this context a polyphenol, a diamine compound, or an amino hydroxyl compound. Compound C can naturally turn into a colored species, or it is possible to trigger or assist the transformation, for example by adding an oxidant, a catalyst or an oxidation enzyme.
Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention particulièrement surprenant, il est également possible grâce au procédé décrit ci-dessus d'obtenir des effets tels que des effets fluorescents, souvent très difficiles à obtenir, même de façon non durable (voir ci-dessous dans la description des composés C susceptibles d'être utilisés pour conférer un effet colonel). According to a particularly surprising embodiment of the invention, it is also possible by the method described above to obtain effects such as fluorescent effects, which are often very difficult to obtain, even in an unsustainable manner (see below). in the description of compounds C which may be used to confer a colonel effect).
La Demanderesse a également pu montrer qu'il était possible de moduler la tenue dans le temps de l'effet coloriel en adaptant l'intervalle entre l'application de A et de C sur la peau. Cette propriété peut être exploitée pour obtenir des tenues supérieures ou intermédiaires, lesquelles ne sont pas atteignables avec les procédés de coloration classiquement employés. Par exemple, on peut obtenir un effet hâlé pour une période de 2 jours. Une telle tenue est surprenante par rapport à celle classiquement obtenue avec les méthodes actuelles, notamment par rapport aux colorations actuelles obtenues avec la DHA. Elle peut s'adapter à ceux qui veulent plaire le temps d'un week-end par exemple. The Applicant has also been able to show that it was possible to modulate the behavior over time of the color effect by adjusting the interval between the application of A and C on the skin. This property can be exploited to obtain upper or intermediate holdings, which are not attainable with the coloring methods conventionally used. For example, you can get a tanned effect for a period of 2 days. Such behavior is surprising compared to that conventionally obtained with current methods, especially with respect to current stains obtained with DHA. It can adapt to those who want to please the time of a weekend for example.
Les composés C permettant de conférer à la peau un effet de couleur selon l'invention peuvent notamment être choisis dans les listes ci-après.
o Agents autobronzants : The compounds C making it possible to give the skin a color effect according to the invention may in particular be chosen from the lists below. o Self-tanning agents:
Les agents autobronzants sont généralement choisis parmi certains composés mono ou polycarbonylés tels que par exemple l'isatine, l'alloxane, la ninhydrine, le glycéraldéhyde, l'aldéhyde mésotartrique, le glutaraldéhyde, Pérythrulose, les dérivés de pyrazolin-4,5-diones telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet FR 2 466 492 et WO 97/35842, la dihydroxyacétone (DHA), les dérivés de 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 903 342. On utilisera de préférence la DHA. La DHA peut être utilisée sous forme libre et/ou encapsulée par exemple dans des vésicules lipidiques telle que des liposomes, notamment décrits dans la demande WO 97/25970. The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from certain mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-dion derivatives. as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. Use will be made of preferably DHA. DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970.
Le ou les agents autobronzants sont généralement présents dans des proportions allant de 0, 1 à 15% en poids et de préférence de 0,2 à 10% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 8 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition les contenant. o Autres composés C utilisables pour conférer un effet de couleur : The self-tanning agent (s) are generally present in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. o Other compounds C usable to confer a color effect:
Le composé C peut également être choisi parmi des molécules qui, bien qu'incolores, sont susceptibles de former des composés colorés après leur utilisation selon l'invention, en particulier dans le cas où le composé A est l'APTES (ou un film de Poly APTES, produit du condensât de l'APTES). On peut citer en particulier le cinnamaldéhyde, le citronellal et le citral. The compound C may also be chosen from molecules which, although colorless, are capable of forming colored compounds after their use according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES (or a film of Poly APTES, product of the condensate of the APTES). Mention may in particular be made of cinnamaldehyde, citronellal and citral.
Citral citral
Le composé C peut également être choisi parmi des molécules qui sont susceptibles de former des composés fluorescents sous UV (azurants optiques) après leur application selon
l'invention, en particulier dans le cas où le composé A est l'APTES. On peut citer en particulier le nonanal et hydroxycitronellal The compound C may also be chosen from molecules which are capable of forming fluorescent compounds under UV (optical brighteners) after their application according to the invention, in particular in the case where the compound A is the APTES. Nonanal and hydroxycitronellal may be mentioned in particular
Hydroxy citronellal Hydroxy citronellal
En effet, la Demanderesse a pu observer l'apparition surprenante d'une fluorescence au niveau des zones de la peau où le procédé selon l'invention a été utilisé. Indeed, the Applicant has been able to observe the surprising appearance of fluorescence in the areas of the skin where the method according to the invention has been used.
Pour conférer à la peau une propriété de brillance, on utilise typiquement des composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau diffusant ou au contraire très lisse. Par exemple, C peut réagir avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A pour donner une poudre. To give the skin a gloss property, compounds A and C are typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a diffusing or otherwise very smooth material. For example, C may react with the material from the condensation of A to give a powder.
> Conditionnement de la peau > Conditioning of the skin
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le procédé selon l'invention est un procédé cosmétique de conditionnement de la peau, dans lequel le composé C est une molécule capable de modifier les propriétés physico-chimiques de la peau. On peut notamment utiliser des agents permettant la modification des propriétés physicochimiques de la surface de la peau. On utilise alors typiquement des composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau dont les caractéristiques de tension de surface sont différentes de celles de la peau. On peut également utiliser des composés A et C qui, en plus des requis décrits plus haut, donnent un matériau qui fait occlusion au passage de certaines molécules. In a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for conditioning the skin, in which compound C is a molecule capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the skin. In particular, it is possible to use agents that make it possible to modify the physicochemical properties of the surface of the skin. Compounds A and C are therefore typically used which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material whose surface tension characteristics are different from those of the skin. It is also possible to use compounds A and C which, in addition to the requirements described above, give a material which occludes the passage of certain molecules.
Le conditionnement de la peau peut être obtenu en utilisant un composé C choisi parmi les polymères conditionneurs.
o Polymères conditionneurs The conditioning of the skin can be obtained by using a compound C chosen from conditioning polymers. o Conditioner polymers
Les polymères conditionneurs susceptibles d'être utilisés dans le cadre de l'invention peuvent être choisis dans les listes ci-dessous : The conditioning polymers that may be used in the context of the invention may be chosen from the lists below:
- Les polymères d'acide acrylamido 2-méthyl propane sulfonique (AMPS) hydrophobés susceptibles d'être utilisés conformément à l'invention peuvent comporter à la fois une partie hydrophile et une partie hydrophobe (polymères amphiphiles) comportant au moins une chaîne grasse. The hydrophobic acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part (amphiphilic polymers) comprising at least one fatty chain.
La chaîne grasse présente dans les polymères de l'invention comporte de préférence de 7 à 30 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement de 7 à 22 atomes de carbone. The fatty chain present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.
Les polymères amphiphiles conformes à l'invention ont en général un poids moléculaire en poids allant de 50 000 à 10 000 000, plus préférentiellement de 100 000 à 8 000 000 et encore plus préférentiellement de 100 000 à 7 000 000. The amphiphilic polymers according to the invention generally have a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000, more preferably from 100,000 to 8,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 7,000,000.
Les polymères amphiphiles d'AMPS selon l'invention peuvent être réticulés ou non réticulés. Les agents de réticulation peuvent être choisis en particulier parmi le méthylène-bis- acrylamide, le méthacrylate d'allyle et le triméthylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). Le taux de réticulation varie de préférence de 0,01 à 10% en moles et plus particulièrement de 0,2 à 2% en moles par rapport au polymère. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The crosslinking agents may be chosen in particular from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
Les polymères d'AMPS amphiphiles conformes à l'invention peuvent notamment être choisis parmi les polymères amphiphiles statistiques d'AMPS modifiés par réaction avec une n- monoalkylamine ou une di-n-alkylamine en C6-C22 tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet WO00/31154. Ces polymères peuvent également contenir d'autres monomères hydrophiles à insaturation éthylénique choisis par exemple parmi l'acide acrylique, l'acide méthacrylique ou leurs dérivés alkyl substitués ou leurs esters obtenus avec des mono ou polyalkylèneglycols, l'acrylamide, le méthacrylamide, la vinylpyrrolidone , l'acide itaconique ou l'acide maléique ou leurs mélanges. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine such as those described in the application for WO00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide or vinylpyrrolidone. , itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
Les polymères d'AMPS préférentiels de l'invention sont choisis parmi les polymères amphiphiles d'AMPS et d'au moins un monomère à insaturation éthylénique comportant au moins une partie hydrophobe ayant de 7 à 30 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement de 7 à 22 atomes de carbone et encore plus préférentiellement de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone. The preferred AMPS polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic polymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22. carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
Cette partie hydrophobe peut être un radical alkyle linéaire, saturé ou insaturé (par exemple n- octyle, n-décyle, nhexadécyle, n-dodécyle, oléyle), ramifié (par exemple isostéarique) ou cyclique (par exemple cyclododécane ou adamantane).
Ces mêmes polymères peuvent contenir en plus un ou plusieurs comonomères hydrophiles à insaturation éthylénique comme l'acide acrylique, l'acide méthacrylique ou leurs dérivés alkylsubstitués ou leurs esters obtenus avec des mono ou polyalkylèneglycols, l'acrylamide, le méthacrylamide la vinylpyrrolidone, l'acide itaconique ou l'acide maléique. This hydrophobic part may be a linear, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, nhexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical. These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone, and itaconic acid or maleic acid.
Ces mêmes polymères peuvent contenir en plus un ou plusieurs co-monomères hydrophobes à insaturation éthylénique, comprenant par exemple : These same polymers may additionally contain one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated comonomers comprising, for example:
- un radical fluoré ou alkylfluoré en C7-C18 (par exemple le groupement de formule -(CH2)2- (CF2)9-CF3) ; a fluorinated or alkylfluorinated C7-C18 radical (for example the group of formula - (CH 2 ) 2 - (CF 2 ) 9 -CF 3 );
- un radical cholestéryle ou un radical dérivé de cholestérol (par exemple l'hexanoate de cholestéryle) ; a cholesteryl radical or a radical derived from cholesterol (for example, cholesteryl hexanoate);
- un groupe polycyclique aromatique comme le naphtalène ou le pyrène ; an aromatic polycyclic group such as naphthalene or pyrene;
- un radical siliconé ou alkylsiliconé ou encore alkylfluorosiliconé. a silicone or alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical.
Ces copolymères sont décrits notamment dans les demandes de brevet (CLARIANT) : EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO02/44225, WO02/44227, WO02/44229, WO02/44230, WO02/44231, WO02/44267, WO02/44268, WO02/44269, WO02/44270, WO02/44271, WO02/43677, WO02/43686, WO02/43687, WO02/43688 et WO02/43689. These copolymers are described in particular in patent applications (CLARIANT): EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO02 / 44225, WO02 / 44227, WO02 / 44229, WO02 / 44230, WO02 / 44231, WO02 / 44267, WO02 / 44268, WO02 / 44269, WO02 / 44270, WO02 / 44271, WO02 / 43677, WO02 / 43686, WO02 / 43687, WO02 / 43688 and WO02 / 43689.
Les monomères hydrophobes à insaturation éthylénique de l'invention sont choisis de préférence parmi les acrylates ou les acrylamides de formule (1) suivante : The hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation of the invention are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:
R R
-CH2 " -CH 2 "
il) he)
C VS
Y— i¾ dans laquelle R27 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en Cl- C6 (de préférence méthyle) ; Y désigne O ou NH ; R28 désigne un radical hydrophobe comportant une chaîne grasse ayant de 7 à 30, de préférence de 7 à 22, et plus particulièrement de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone. Wherein R27 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain having from 7 to 30, preferably from 7 to 22, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
Le radical hydrophobe R28 est choisi de préférence parmi les radicaux alkyles linéaires en C7-C22 , saturés ou insaturés (par exemple n-octyle, n-décyle, n-hexadécyle, n-dodécyle, oléyle), ramifiés (par exemple isostéarique) ou cycliques (par exemple cyclododécane ou adamantane) ; les radicaux alkylperfluorés en C7-C18 (par exemple le groupement deformule
-(CH2)2-(CF2) -CF3) ; le radical cholestéryle ou un ester de cholestérol comme l'hexanoate de cholestéryle ; les groupes polycycliques aromatiques comme le naphtalène ou le pyrène. Parmi ces radicaux, on préfère plus particulièrement les radicaux alkyles linéaires et ramifiés. Selon une forme particulièrement préférée de l'invention, le radical hydrophobe R28 comporte en plus au moins un motif oxyde d'alkylène et de préférence une chaîne polyoxyalkylénée. La chaîne polyoxyalkylénée de façon préférentielle est constituée de motifs oxyde d'éthylène et/ou de motifs oxyde de propylène et encore plus particulièrement constituée uniquement de motifs oxyde d'éthylène. Le nombre de moles de motifs oxyalkylénés varie en général de 1 à 30 moles et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 25 moles et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 20 moles. The hydrophobic radical R28 is preferably chosen from linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, oleyl), branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (eg cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the formula group - (CH2) 2- (CF2) -CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester such as cholesteryl hexanoate; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred. According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R 28 additionally comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists solely of ethylene oxide units. The number of moles of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 1 to 30 moles and more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.
Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
- les copolymères réticulés ou non réticulés, neutralisés ou non, comportant de 15 à 60 % en poids de motifs AMPS et de 40 à 85 % en poids de motifs (C8-C16)alkyl(méth)acrylamides ou de motifs (C8-C16)alkyl(méth)acrylates par rapport au polymère, tels que ceux décrits dans la demande EP-A-750 899 ; crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) units ) alkyl (meth) acrylates with respect to the polymer, such as those described in EP-A-750 899;
- les terpolymères comportant de 10 à 90% en moles de motifs acrylamides, de 0,1 à 10% en moles de motifs AMPS et de 5 à 80% en moles de motifs n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamides, par rapport au polymère, tels que ceux décrits dans le brevet US-A-5,089,578. terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer such as those described in US-A-5,089,578.
Comme polymères amphiphiles, on peut également citer les copolymères d'AMPS totalement neutralisé et de méthacrylate de n-dodécyle, de n-hexadécyle et/ou de noctadécyle, ainsi que les copolymères d'AMPS et de n-dodécylméthacrylamide, non réticulés et réticulés. As amphiphilic polymers, mention may also be made of the copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or noctadecyl methacrylate, as well as the uncrosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide. .
On citera plus particulièrement les copolymères amphiphiles réticulés ou non réticulés constitués : More particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers consisting of:
(a) de motifs acides 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfoniques (AMPS) de formule (2) suivante : (a) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (2) below:
dans laquelle X+ est un proton, un cation de métal alcalin, un cation alcalino-terreux ou l'ion ammonium ; wherein X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion;
(b) et de motifs de formule (3) suivante : (b) and the following formula (3):
R, R
2CH,0)-(CH2CH{CH3)0)-R 2 CH, O) - (CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O) -R
n p 29 n p 29
dans laquelle n et p, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un nombre de moles et varient de 0 à 30, de préférence de 1 à 25 et plus préférentiellement de 3 à 20 sous réserve que n + p soit inférieur ou égal à 30, de préférence inférieur à 25 et encore mieux inférieur à 20 ; R27 a la même signification indiquée ci-dessus dans la formule (1) et R29 désigne un alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comportant m atomes de carbone, m allant de 7 à 22, de préférence de 12 à 22. Dans la formule (2), le cation X+ désigne plus particulièrement le sodium ou l'ammonium. Parmi les monomères de formule (3), on peut citer in which n and p, independently of one another, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20 with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to at 30, preferably less than 25 and more preferably less than 20; R27 has the same meaning indicated above in formula (1) and R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl having m carbon atoms, m ranging from 7 to 22, preferably from 12 to 22. In formula (2), the cation X + denotes more particularly sodium or ammonium. Among the monomers of formula (3), mention may be made
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras en C10-C18 polyoxethylénés à 8 OE comme le produit GENAPOL C-080 vendu par la Société CLARIA T ; the (meth) acrylic acid esters of C10-C18 fatty acids polyoxethylenated with 8 EOs, such as the product GENAPOL C-080 sold by the company CLARIA T;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'oxoalcool gras en Ci l polyoxyéthyléné à 8 OE comme le produit GENAPOL UD-080 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; the esters of (meth) acrylic acid and of fatty oxoalcohol in polyoxyethylenated Ci at 8 OE, such as the product GENAPOL UD-080 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C12-C14 à 7 OE comme le produit GENAPOL LA-070 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and C12-C14 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at 7 OE, such as the product GENAPOL LA-070 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C12-C14 à 11 OE comme le produit GENAPOL LA-110 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol C12-C14 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL LA-110 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 8 OE comme le produit GENAPOL T-080 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 8 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-080 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 15 OE comme le produit GENAPOL T-150 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 15 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-150 sold by Clariant;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 11 OE comme le produit GENAPOL T- 1 10 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 11 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-1 10 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 20 OE comme le produit GENAPOL T-200 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 to 20 EO such as the product GENAPOL T-200 sold by CLARIANT;
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 25 OE comme le produit GENAPOL T-250 vendu par la Société CLARIANT ; et
- les esters d'acide (méth)acrylique et d'alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C18-C22 à 25 OE et/ ou d'isoalcool gras polyoxyéthyléné en C16-C18 à 25 OE . esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C16-C18 at 25 OE such as the product GENAPOL T-250 sold by CLARIANT; and esters of (meth) acrylic acid and polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol C18-C22 at 25 EO and / or polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol at C16-C18 at 25 EO.
On choisira plus particulièrement : We will choose more particularly:
(i) ceux non réticulés pour lesquels p= 0, n = 7 ou 25, R27 désigne méthyle et R29 représente un mélange d'alkyles en C12-C14 ou en C16-C18 , (i) those non-crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyls,
(ii) ceux réticulés pour lesquels p = 0, n = 8 ou 25, R27 désigne méthyle et R29 représente un mélange d'alkyles en C16-C18. (ii) those crosslinked for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyls.
Ces polymères sont décrits et synthétisés dans la demande EP1069142. Ces polymères amphiphiles particuliers peuvent être obtenus selon les procédés classiques de polymérisation radicalaire en présence d'un ou plusieurs initiateurs tels que par exemple, l'azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), l'azobisdiméthylvaléronitrile, le chlorhydrate de 2,2-azobis- [2-amidinopropane] (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis-[2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), les peroxydes organiques tels que le peroxyde de dilauryle, le peroxyde de benzoyle et l'hydroperoxyde de tert-butyle, des composés peroxydés minéraux tels que le persulfate de potassium ou d'ammonium, ou le eproxyde d'hydrogène H2O2, éventuellement en présence de réducteurs. These polymers are described and synthesized in application EP1069142. These particular amphiphilic polymers can be obtained according to the conventional methods of radical polymerization in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, hydrochloride of 2,2-azobis- [2- amidinopropane] (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis- [2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide and tert-butyl hydroperoxide, inorganic peroxidized compounds such as potassium or ammonium persulfate, or hydrogen peroxide H2O2, optionally in the presence of reducing agents.
Ces polymères amphiphiles peuvent être notamment obtenus par polymérisation radicalaire en milieu tert-butanol dans lequel ils précipitent. En utilisant la polymérisation par précipitation dans le tert-butanol, il est possible d'obtenir une distribution de la taille des particules du polymère particulièrement favorable pour ses utilisations. These amphiphilic polymers may in particular be obtained by radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses.
La réaction peut être conduite à une température comprise entre 0 et 150°C, de préférence entre 10 et 100°C, soit à pression atmosphérique, soit sous pression réduite. Elle peut aussi être réalisée sous atmosphère inerte, et de préférence sous azote. Les polymères conformes à l'invention de façon préférentielle sont neutralisés partiellement ou totalement par une base minérale ou organique telle que celles citées ci dessus. The reaction may be conducted at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen. The polymers according to the invention are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral or organic base such as those mentioned above.
La concentration molaire en % des motifs de formule (2) et des motifs de formule (3) dans les polymères amphiphiles selon l'invention varie en fonction de l'application cosmétique souhaitée, de la nature de l'émulsion (huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile) et des propriétés rhéo logiques de la formulation recherchées. Elle peut varier entre 0, 1 et 99,9 % en moles. Les polymères d'AMPS amphiphiles selon l'invention peu hydrophobes seront plus appropriés pour l'épaississement et/ou la stabilisation des émulsions huile-dans-eau. La proportion molaire en motifs de formule (3) variera de préférence de 0,1 à 50 %, plus particulièrement de 1 à 25 % et encore plus particulièrement de 3 à 10%.
Les polymères d'AMPS amphipbiles selon l'invention plus hydrophobes seront plus appropriées pour l'épaississement et/ou la stabilisation des émulsions eau-dans-huile. La proportion molaire en motifs de formule (3) variera de préférence de 50,1 à 99,9 %, plus particulièrement de 60 à 95 % et encore plus particulièrement de 65 à 90 %. The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (2) and units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic polymers according to the invention varies according to the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water water or water-in-oil) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It can vary between 0, 1 and 99.9 mol%. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers of the invention which are not very hydrophobic will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the oil-in-water emulsions. The molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 1 to 25% and even more particularly from 3 to 10%. The more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for the thickening and / or the stabilization of the water-in-oil emulsions. The molar proportion of units of formula (3) will preferably vary from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 60 to 95% and even more particularly from 65 to 90%.
La distribution des monomères dans les polymères de l'invention peut être, par exemple, alternée, bloc (y compris multibloc) ou quelconque. The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.
A titre indicatif et sans que cela soit limitatif, on citera les références commerciales suivantes : Aristoflex HMS, Aristoflex LNC, Aristoflex SNC et Aristoflex HMB commercialisées par Clariant. As an indication and without limitation, mention will be made of the following commercial references: Aristoflex HMS, Aristoflex LNC, Aristoflex SNC and Aristoflex HMB marketed by Clariant.
Comme indiqué plus haut, ces polymères d'AMPS hydrophobés tels que décrits peuvent être utilisés comme additifs dans une émulsion, et dans ce cas seront solubilisés préférentiellement dans la phase aqueuse de celle-ci, ou bien comme émulsionnants. Dans ce cas, ils permettent la formation d'émulsions H/E telles que décrites dans les demandes WO02/055039, WO02/055038, EP1353642, EP1353633, WO02/055052, FR2853544, EP1466587. les dérivés PDMS oxyéthylénés (ou silicones hydrosolubles) As indicated above, these hydrophobic polymers of AMPS as described can be used as additives in an emulsion, and in this case will be solubilized preferentially in the aqueous phase thereof, or as emulsifiers. In this case, they allow the formation of O / W emulsions as described in the applications WO02 / 055039, WO02 / 055038, EP1353642, EP1353633, WO02 / 055052, FR2853544 and EP1466587. oxyethylenated PDMS derivatives (or water-soluble silicones)
Les silicones hydrosolubles utilisables dans l'invention sont de préférence choisies parmi les composés de formules générales (I) et (II) : The water-soluble silicones that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II):
RR
55
i i
Si -
Yes -
dans lesquelles in which
- les radicaux R5, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical hydrocarboné monovalent choisi parmi les groupes alkyle, aryle, aralkyle ne contenant pas plus de 10 atomes de carbone et de préférence choisis parmi les alkyles inférieurs en C1-C4 comme méthyle, éthyle, butyle ou bien choisis parmi phényle et benzyle et encore plus préférentiellement désignent tous méthyle ; certains des radicaux R5 peuvent également contenir un plus un
groupe éthylcyclohexylènemonooxyde et sont en faible proportion dans la chaîne polysiloxane ; the radicals R5, which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl or butyl; or else chosen from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferably all of them refer to methyl; some of the R5 radicals may also contain one plus one ethylcyclohexylenemonooxide group and are in low proportion in the polysiloxane chain;
- u vaut 5 à 59, de préférence 10 à 50 et plus préférentiellement 12 à 25 ; u is 5 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25;
- v vaut 3 à 12, de préférence 4 à 10 et plus préférentiellement 5 à 8 ; - v is 3 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8;
- E désigne un groupe -CxH2X-(OC2H4)y-(OC3Hâ)z-OR6 où : - E denotes a -C x H 2 X - (OC 2 H 4) y - (OC 3 H ¯) z -OR 6 where:
- x vaut 1 à 8, de préférence de 2 à 4 et plus préférentiellement 3 ; x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3;
- y > 0 et z > 0 ; y et z étant choisis de telle sorte que la masse molaire totale du radical E varie de 200 à 10000 g/mol et plus préférentiellement de 350 à 3000 ; de préférence, le nombre z est égal à zéro. - y> 0 and z> 0; y and z being chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E ranges from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3,000; preferably, the number z is equal to zero.
- R6 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C8, linéaire ou ramifié (de préférence en C1-C4 comme méthyle) ou un radical acyle en C2-C8 (de préférence en C2- C4 comme acétyle). R6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical (preferably C1-C4 alkyl as methyl) or a C2-C8 acyl radical (preferably C2-C4 acyl).
Dans la formule E, les unités oxyéthylènes et oxypropylènes peuvent être distribuées dans la chaîne polyéther E de manière aléatoire et/ou sous forme de blocs. In formula E, the oxyethylene and oxypropylene units may be distributed in the polyether chain E randomly and / or in block form.
Les silicones hydrosolubles conformes à l'invention sont connues et notamment décrites dans le brevet US 5,338,352 et leur mode de préparation est décrit notamment dans le brevet US 4,847,398. The water-soluble silicones according to the invention are known and in particular described in US Pat. No. 5,338,352 and their method of preparation is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,847,398.
De telles silicones sont par exemple vendues par la société OSI sous les dénominations commerciales Silwet L-720® , Silwet L-7002®, Silwet L-7600® , Silwet L-7604® , SilwetSuch silicones are for example sold by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720 ®, ® Silwet L-7002, Silwet L-7600 ®, Silwet L-7604 ®, Silwet
L-7605® , Silwet L-7607®, Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657® , Silwet L-7200®, Silwet L7230, Silsoft 305, Silsoft 820, Silsoft 880, Tego wet 260, Tegowet 500, Tegowet 505 et Tegowet 510®. - les polymères blocs amphiphiles L-7605 ® , Silwet L-7607 ® , Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657 ® , Silwet L-7200 ® , Silwet L7230, Silsoft 305, Silsoft 820, Silsoft 880, Tego Wet 260, Tegowet 500, Tegowet 505 and Tegowet 510 ® . amphiphilic block polymers
Les copolymères blocs utilisés dans le procédé selon l'invention sont notamment des polymères blocs amphiphiles, non ioniques, diblocs ou triblocs, qui peuvent former au contact de l'eau des micelles, des particules de type vésicules (par exemple des liposomes) ou des phases cristal liquide lyotropes de type lamellaire, cubique (directe ou inverse) ou hexagonale (directe ou inverse) au contact de l'eau. Ils sont notamment de type dibloc (A-B) ou tribloc (A-B-A), A correspondant à un bloc polymérique hydrophile non ionique et B à un bloc polymérique hydrophobe. Le poids moléculaire des polymères peut être compris entre 1000 et 100.000 et le rapport A/B peut être compris entre 1/100 et 50/1.
Les copolymères blocs utilisés peuvent notamment être choisis parmi les polymères blocs amphiphiles à base de polystyrène. Le bloc polymérique hydrophobe peut alors être choisi parmi le polystyrène et le poly(ter - butylstyrène). The block copolymers used in the process according to the invention are in particular amphiphilic, nonionic, diblock or triblock block polymers, which can form, in contact with water, micelles, vesicle-type particles (for example liposomes) or lyotropic liquid crystal phases lamellar, cubic (direct or inverse) or hexagonal (direct or inverse) in contact with water. They are in particular of the diblock (AB) or triblock (ABA) type, A corresponding to a nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block and B to a hydrophobic polymeric block. The molecular weight of the polymers can be between 1000 and 100,000 and the ratio A / B can be between 1/100 and 50/1. The block copolymers used can in particular be chosen from amphiphilic block polymers based on polystyrene. The hydrophobic polymeric block can then be chosen from polystyrene and poly (tert-butylstyrene).
Le bloc polymérique hydrophile non ionique est choisi de préférence parmi le polyoxyde d'éthylène (POE) et la polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). A titre d'exemples, on citera les Tegomer SE 1010 et SE 1030 de la société Goldschmidt (cf les demandes EP1555984 et epl413290 qui décrivent la mise en oeuvre de polymères blocs dans des compositions de crèmes solaires). The nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). By way of examples, mention may be made of the Tegomer SE 1010 and SE 1030 from the company Goldschmidt (cf the applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions).
Les copolymères blocs utilisés peuvent également être choisis parmi les polymères blocs amphiphiles polyoxyéthylénés The block copolymers used can also be chosen from polyoxyethylenated amphiphilic block polymers
Le bloc polymérique hydrophobe de l'invention peuvent correspondre à : The hydrophobic polymeric block of the invention may correspond to:
Monomères vinyliques hydrophobes de formule (A) suivante :
dans laquelle : Hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (A) below: in which :
- R est choisi parmi H, -CH3, -C2H5 ou -C3H7 , R is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7,
- X est choisi parmi : X is selected from:
- les oxydes d'alkyle de type -OR' où R' est un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, ayant de 1 à 22atomes de carbone. the type -OR 'alkyl oxides where R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
Le composé (A) peut être le méthacrylate de méthyle, le méthacrylate d'éthyle, le The compound (A) can be methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate,
(méth)acrylate de n-butyle, le (méth)acrylate de tertio-butyle, l'acrylate de cyclohexyle et l'acrylate d'isobornyle et l'acrylate d'éthyle 2-hexyle. n-butyl (meth) acrylate, t-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.
Le bloc polymérique hydrophile non ionique est choisi de préférence parmi le polyoxyde d'éthylène (POE) et la polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is preferably selected from polyethylene oxide (POE) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
Le copolymère bloc est choisi de préférence parmi les copolymères blocs suivants : The block copolymer is preferably chosen from the following block copolymers:
- polyméthylméthacrylate/polyoxyéthylène
- polybutylméthacrylate/polyoxyéthylène - polymethylmethacrylate / polyoxyethylene - polybutylmethacrylate / polyoxyethylene
A titre d'exemple, on citera les TegomerBE 1010 et BE 1030 ainsi que les Tegomer ME 1010 et ME 1030 de la société Goidsclimidt (cf les demandes EP1555984 et epl413290 qui décrivent la mise en oeuvre de polymères blocs dans des compositions de crèmes solaires) les polysaccharides choisis parmi : By way of example, mention may be made of TegomerBE 1010 and BE 1030 as well as Tegomer ME 1010 and ME 1030 from the company Goidsclimidt (cf. applications EP1555984 and epl413290 which describe the use of block polymers in sunscreen compositions) the polysaccharides chosen from:
A) les dérivés de cellulose A) cellulose derivatives
Les dérivés préférés sont les hydroxyéthylcelluloses de poids moléculaire compris entre 50000 et 2 000 000, les carboxyméthylcelluloses comme le Blanose LF7 d'Aqualon, les hydroxypropylcelluloses, les dérivés hydrophobés de cellulose en C10-C30 tels que le Natrosol 330+ d'Hercules et le Polysurf 67 d'Aqualon ; The preferred derivatives are hydroxyethylcelluloses with a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 2,000,000, carboxymethylcelluloses such as Aqualon's Blanose LF7, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydrophobic C10-C30 cellulose derivatives such as Hercules' Natrosol 330+ and Polysurf 67 from Aqualon;
B) les gommes de Xanthane comme Keltrol T de CP Kelco et de Guar comme Jaguar HP 105 de Rhodia ; B) Xanthan gums such as Keltrol T from CP Kelco and Guar as Jaguar HP 105 from Rhodia;
C) les alginates, pouvant être estérifiés tels que le Kelcoloid O de CP Kelco (taux d'estérification de 80- 85%) ; C) alginates, which may be esterified, such as Kelcoloid O from CP Kelco (esterification rate of 80-85%);
D) les dérivés de polysaccharides oxydés, et rendus cétoniques, tels que l'insuline oxydée ; D) oxidized polysaccharide derivatives, and made ketonic, such as oxidized insulin;
E) les dérivés de fucose comme le polyfucose commercialisé sous le nom de Fucogel par Solabia ; E) fucose derivatives such as polyfucose marketed under the name Fucogel by Solabia;
F) les dérivés de fructose comme le Fructan de Sochibo/Bioland ; F) fructose derivatives such as Sochibo / Bioland Fructan;
G) les dérivés de Rhamnose comme le Rhamnosoft de Solabia ; G) Rhamnose derivatives such as Rhamnosoft of Solabia;
H) les dérivés de pullulan comme le pullulan PI-20 de Hayashibara ; H) pullulan derivatives such as Hayashibara PI-20 pullulan;
ainsi que les polysaccharides modifiés tels que les guars rendues cationiques, telles les Jaguar C13S et C 132. les dérivés triblocs POE-POP-POE tels que les poloxamers, solubles dans l'eau (solution limpide à 1% dans l'eau à température ambiante) et ayant un poids moléculaire (PM) supérieur à 8000. A titre d'exemples, on peut citer le Poloxamer 338 (POE-POP-POE : 128/54/128), le Poloxamer 407 (POE-POP-POE : 98/67/98), le Poloxamer 188 (POE-POP- POE : 75/30/75) et le Poloxamer 238 (POE-POP-POE : 97/39/97). les dérivés de polyaminoacides tels que l'acide polyglutamiquecomme le Bio PGA solution d'Ishumaru Pharcos, l'acide polyaspartique comme l'AquaDew SPA-30
d'Ajinomoto, la polyleucine et la polylysine telle que la polylysine et l'Epsilon polylysine de Chisso corporation. les dérivés d'acide galacturonique tels que le Dextran de Fluka. les copolymères d'anhydride maléique ou d'anhydride succinique tels que le Licocare PP207 de Clariant et le Wacker GF20 de Wacker Chimie. les copolymères méthyl vinyl éther / monomaléate d'éthyle tels que le Gantrez ES225 de chez ISP. les dérivés de poly(alkyloxazoline) : as well as modified polysaccharides such as guars made cationic, such as Jaguar C13S and C132. POE-POP-POE triblock derivatives such as poloxamers, soluble in water (1% clear solution in water at room temperature). ambient) and having a molecular weight (MW) greater than 8000. By way of examples, mention may be made of Poloxamer 338 (POE-POP-POE: 128/54/128) and Poloxamer 407 (POE-POP-POE: 98/67/98), Poloxamer 188 (POE-POP-POE: 75/30/75) and Poloxamer 238 (POE-POP-POE: 97/39/97). polyamino acid derivatives such as polyglutamic acid such as Ishumaru Pharcos Bio PGA solution, polyaspartic acid such as AquaDew SPA-30 of Ajinomoto, polyleucine and polylysine such as polylysine and Epsilon polylysine from Chisso corporation. galacturonic acid derivatives such as Fluka Dextran. copolymers of maleic anhydride or succinic anhydride such as Clariant's Licocare PP207 and Wacker Chemistry's Wacker GF20. methyl vinyl ether / ethyl monomaleate copolymers such as Gantrez ES225 from ISP. the poly (alkyloxazoline) derivatives:
On peut utiliser dans le procédé selon l'invention comme composé C un polymère connditionneur qui est un polymère d'oxazoline de formule (I) : It is possible to use in the process according to the invention as compound C a conductive polymer which is an oxazoline polymer of formula (I):
dans laquelle RI est un radical alkyle inférieur en C1-C4, et de préférence un groupement éthyle et n a une valeur telle que le poids moléculaire est au moins égal à 10000. in which RI is a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, and preferably an ethyl group and has a value such that the molecular weight is at least 10000.
Les polymères d'oxazoline de formule (1) ont un poids moléculaire supérieur à 10000, généralement compris entre 20000 et 1000000, et de préférence entre 50000 et 500000 et sont préparés par polymérisation de 2-alkyl 2-oxazoline. Les polymères préférés sont les homopolymères d'éthyloxazoline ayant un poids moléculaire compris entre 20000 et 1000000, et plus particulièrement ceux vendus sous la dénomination de PEOX par la Société DOW CHEMICAL ayant des poids moléculaires de 50000 à 500000. The oxazoline polymers of formula (1) have a molecular weight greater than 10,000, generally between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and preferably between 50,000 and 500,000, and are prepared by polymerization of 2-alkyl 2-oxazoline. The preferred polymers are homopolymers of ethyloxazoline having a molecular weight of between 20,000 and 1,000,000, and more particularly those sold under the name of PEOX by DOW CHEMICAL Company having molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000.
Un polymère plus particulièrement préféré selon l'invention est représenté par un homopolymère d'éthyloxazoline de poids moléculaire 50000.
A titre d'exemple, non limitatif, on citera les produits de Dow Chemical, commercialisés sous le nom de PEOX (PM 50000), PEOX (PM 200000), PEOX (PM 500000), POLYMER XAS- 10874.01, ou de SigmaAldrich, commercialisés sous les noms Poly(2-ethyloxazoline) PM 50000, Poly(2-ethyloxazoline) PM 200000 et Poly(2-ethyloxazoline) PM 500000. les dérivés acryliques de phosphorylcholine A more particularly preferred polymer according to the invention is represented by an homopolymer of ethyloxazoline with a molecular weight of 50000. By way of non-limiting example, mention may be made of the products of Dow Chemical, marketed under the name of PEOX (PM 50000), PEOX (PM 200000), PEOX (PM 500000), POLYMER XAS-10874.01, or SigmaAldrich, sold under the names Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 50000, Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 200000 and Poly (2-ethyloxazoline) PM 500000. acrylic derivatives of phosphorylcholine
Ces polymères sont décrits dans la demande EPI 764078. These polymers are described in EPI application 764078.
Les polymères comportant un groupe méthacryloyloxéthyl-phosphorylcholine (MPC) sont particulièrement efficaces pour améliorer les propriétés de rétention d'eau à la surface de la peau et du cheveu. Leur utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique a fait l'objet des demandes de Pola, JP28321 19 (correspondants US5,468,475 et FR2698003) comme moyen pour hydrater la peau et les cheveux et peuvent être utilisés comme polymères conditionneurs dans le cadre de la présente invention. Polymers comprising a methacryloyloxethyl phosphorylcholine (MPC) group are particularly effective in improving the water retention properties on the surface of the skin and the hair. Their use in the cosmetic field has been the subject of the applications of Pola, JP28321 19 (corresponding US5,468,475 and FR2698003) as a means for moisturizing the skin and the hair and can be used as conditioning polymers in the context of the present invention.
Par polymère acrylique à groupement de type phosphorylcholine, on entend un polymère ayant un squelette acrylique et comprenant des groupements pendants (ou chaînes latérales) contenant un groupement de formule (I) suivante : By acrylic polymer group phosphorylcholine type is meant a polymer having an acrylic backbone and comprising pendant groups (or side chains) containing a group of formula (I) below:
O R1 OR 1
Il I He I
-R5-0-P-0-R4-N-R2 (I) -R 5 -0-P-O-R 4 -NR 2 (I)
I I I I
O" R3 O " R 3
dans laquelle R1, R2 et R3 désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone ; R4 désigne -(CH2-CHR60)m-(CH2-CHR6)- avec Rg désignant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe méthyle ou éthyle, et m désigne un nombre entier allant de 0 à 10 ; R5 désigne -(CH2)g-, g étant un nombre entier allant de 2 à 10. wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; R 4 denotes - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) m - (CH 2 -CHR 6 ) - with R 8 denoting a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl group, and m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 10; R 5 denotes - (CH 2 ) g -, g being an integer ranging from 2 to 10.
Un tel polymère peut être obtenu par polymérisation de monomère acrylique comprenant le groupement de formule (I) décrit précédemment, appelé dans la suite de la description monomère acrylique PC. Such a polymer can be obtained by polymerization of acrylic monomer comprising the group of formula (I) described above, referred to hereinafter in the description of the acrylic monomer PC.
Avantageusement, le monomère acrylique PC est un monomère répondant à la formule (II) suivante :
CH = C - C -O C2 H40 -P - 0 (CH2) n - N+- R 2 [ II ] Advantageously, the acrylic monomer PC is a monomer corresponding to the following formula (II): CH = C - C - OC 2 H 4 O - P - O (CH 2 ) n - N + - R 2 [II]
II L l o II L l o
O o R dans laquelle R1, R2 et R3 désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone ; n représente un nombre entier allant de 2 à 4 ; R7 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle. Wherein R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; n represents an integer ranging from 2 to 4; R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
Comme monomère acrylique PC, on peut citer les monomères suivants : As PC acrylic monomer, mention may be made of the following monomers:
2-(méth)acryloy loxyéthyl-2 '-(triméthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2 '- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-2'-(triméthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-2 '- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
4- (méth)acryloyloxybutyl-2 '-(triméthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-2 '- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
5- (méth)acryloyloxypentyl-2 '-(triméthylammonio)éthyl phosphaste, 5- (Meth) acryloyloxypentyl-2 '- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphatide,
2- (méth)acryloy loxyéthyl-2 '-(triéthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2 '- (triethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
3- (méth)acryloyloxypropyl-2'(triéthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-2 '(triethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-2'-(triéthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-2 '- (triethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
5-(méth)acryloyloxypentyl-2'(triéthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 5- (meth) acryloyloxypentyl-2 '(triethylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
2- (méth)acryloy loxyéthyl-2 '-(tripropylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2 '- (tripropylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
3- (méth)acryloyloxypropyl-2'(tripropylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-2 '(tripropylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
4- (méth)acryloyloxybutyl-2 '-(tripropylamonnio)éthyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-2 '- (tripropylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
5-(méth)acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(tripropylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 5- (Meth) acryloyloxypentyl-2 '- (tripropylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
2- (méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-2 '-(tributylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2 '- (tributylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
3- (méth)acryloyloxypropyl-2'-(tributylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-2 '- (tributylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
4- (méth)acryloy loxybutyl-2 '-(tripropylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-2 '- (tripropylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
5- (méth)acryloyloxypentyl-2'-(tributylammonio)éthyl phosphate, 5- (Meth) acryloyloxypentyl-2 '- (tributylammonio) ethyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-3 '-(triméthylammonio)propyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-3 '- (trimethylammonio) propyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-4'-(triméthylammonio)butyl éthyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-4 '- (trimethylammonio) butyl ethyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-3 '-(triéthylammonio)propyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-3 '- (triethylammonio) propyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acrytoyloxyéthyl-4'(triéthylammonio)butyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-4 '(triethylammonio) butyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-3 '-(tripropylammonio)propyl phosphate, 2(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl- 4'-(tripropylammonio)butyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-3 '- (tripropylammonio) propyl phosphate, 2 (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-4' - (tripropylammonio) butyl phosphate,
2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-3 '-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate,
2- (méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-4'-(tributylarnmonio)butyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-3 '- (tributylammonio) propyl phosphate, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-4 '- (tributylammonio) butyl phosphate,
3- (méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-3'(triméthylammonio)propyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-3 '(trimethylammonio) propyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(triméthylammonio)butyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-4 '- (trimethylammonio) butyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-3 '(triéthylammonio)propyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-3 '(triethylammonio) propyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(triéthylammonio)butyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-4 '- (triethylammonio) butyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-3'-(tripropyllammonio)propyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-3 '- (tripropylammonio) propyl phosphate,
3-(méth)acryloyloxypropyl-4'-(tripropylammonio)butyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-4 '- (tripropylammonio) butyl phosphate,
3- (méth)acryloyloxypropyl-3 '-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-3 '- (tributylammonio) propyl phosphate,
3 -(méth)acryloy loxypropyl-4 ' -(tributylammonio)butyl phosphate, 3- (meth) acryloyloxypropyl-4 '- (tributylammonio) butyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-3 '-(triméthtylammonio)propyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-3 '- (trimethylammonio) propyl phosphate,
4- (méth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(triméthylammonio)butyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-4 '- (trimethylammonio) butyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-3 '(triéthylammonio)propyl éthyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-3 '(triethylammonio) propyl ethyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(triehtylammonio)butyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-4 '- (triehtylammonio) butyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-3 '-(tripropylammonio)propyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-3 '- (tripropylammonio) propyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-4'-(tripropylamnionio)butyl phosphate, 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-4 '- (tripropylamino) butyl phosphate,
4-(méth)acryloyloxybutyl-3 '-(tributylammonio)propyl phosphate, et 4- (meth) acryloyloxybutyl-3 '- (tributylammonio) propyl phosphate, and
4-(méth)acylolyloxybutyl-4 ' (tribuylammonio)butyl phosphate. 4- (meth) acylolyloxybutyl-4 '(tribuylammonio) butyl phosphate.
Comme monomère acrylique PC, on utilise de préférence le 2-(méth)acryloyloxyéthyl-2'- (triméthylammonio)éthyl phosphate, appelé également 2-As PC acrylic monomer, 2- (meth) acryloyloxyethyl-2'- (trimethylammonio) ethyl phosphate, also called 2-
(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine. (Methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine.
De préférence, le polymère acrylique PC utilisé selon l'invention est un polymère obtenu par polymérisation d'un monomère acrylique PC tel que décrit précédemment et éventuellement d'un ou plusieurs monomères additionnels différents du monomère acrylique PC. Preferably, the acrylic polymer PC used according to the invention is a polymer obtained by polymerization of a PC acrylic monomer as described above and optionally of one or more additional monomers different from the acrylic monomer PC.
Les monomères additionnels peuvent être choisis parmi le (méth)acrylate de méthyle, le (méth)acrylate d'éthyle, le (méth)acrylate de butyle, l'acide (méth)acrylique, le (méth)acrylamide, le (méth)acrylate de 2-hydroxyéthyle, Γ éthyl vinyl éther, le butyl vinyl éther, la N-vinylpyrrolidone, le chlorure de vinyle, l'éthylène, l'isobutylène, l'acrylonitrile, le styrène, le méthyl styrène, le chlorométhyl styrène.
Le polymère acrylique PC peut comprendre de 40 à 100 % en moles d'unités issues du monomère acrylique PC tel que décrit précédemment et de 0 à 60 % en moles d'unités issues de monomère additionnel. De manière préférée, le polymère à groupement de type phosphorylcholine est choisi parmi l'homopolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine, le copolymère 2- (méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de butyle, le copolymère 2- (méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine/chlorure de 2-hydroxy-3- méthacryloyloxypropyltriméthylammonium, le terpolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl) phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de butyle/méthacrylate de sodium , le copolymère 2- (méthacryloyloxyéthyl) phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de stéaryle. The additional monomers may be chosen from methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylamide, (meth) 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, ethyl vinyl ether, butyl vinyl ether, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl chloride, ethylene, isobutylene, acrylonitrile, styrene, methyl styrene, chloromethyl styrene. The acrylic polymer PC may comprise from 40 to 100 mol% of units derived from the acrylic monomer PC as described above and from 0 to 60 mol% of units derived from additional monomer. Preferably, the polymer with a phosphorylcholine group is chosen from 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine homopolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate copolymer, 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / chloride 2 copolymer. 3-hydroxy-3-methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium, the terpolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate / sodium methacrylate, the 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / stearyl methacrylate copolymer.
De préférence, on utilise l'homopolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine ou le copolymère 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de butyle, et plus préférentiellement l'homopolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine. Preferably, the homopolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine or the copolymer 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate, and more preferably the homopolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine.
De tels polymères sont décrits dans les documents EP-A-1163905, EP-A-1095665, FR-A- 2698003, EP-A6767212, dont le contenu est incorporé à titre de référence dans la présente demande. Le polymère acrylique PC a de préférence un poids moléculaire en poids allant de 50 000 à 1 000 000, et préférentiellement allant de 80 000 à 800 000. Such polymers are described in EP-A-1163905, EP-A-1095665, FR-A-2698003, EP-A6767212, the contents of which are incorporated by reference in the present application. The acrylic polymer PC preferably has a molecular weight in weight ranging from 50,000 to 1,000,000, and preferably ranging from 80,000 to 800,000.
Comme polymères acryliques à groupement phosphorylcholine conformes à l'invention, on peut utiliser : As acrylic polymers with a phosphorylcholine group according to the invention, it is possible to use:
- le poly-2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine à 40 % dans un mélange eau/butanediol (5% de butanediol) vendu sous la dénomination LIPIDURE HM par la société Nippon Oils and Fats ; ce produit a pour nom CTFA : polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate (and) butylène glycol ; poly (2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine at 40% in a water / butanediol mixture (5% butanediol) sold under the name LIPIDURE HM by the company Nippon Oils and Fats; this product is CTFA: polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate (and) butylene glycol;
- le copolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl) phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de butyle (90/10) à 5 % en solution dans l'eau vendu sous la dénomination LIPIDURE PMB par la société Nippon Oils and Fats ; ce produit a pour nom CTFA : POLYQUATERNIUM-51 ;
- le copolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl)phosphorylcholine/chlorure de 2-hydroxy-3- méthacryloyloxypropyltriméthylammonium à 5% en solution dans l'eau, vendu sous la dénomination LIPIDURE-C par la société Nippon Oils and Fats ; - le terpolymère de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl) phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de butyle/méthacrylate de sodium à 5 % en solution dans l'eau, vendu sous la dénomination LIPIDURE-A par la société Nippon Oils and Fats ; et the copolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate (90/10) at 5% in solution in water sold under the name LIPIDURE PMB by the company Nippon Oils and Fats; this product is called CTFA: POLYQUATERNIUM-51; - the copolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 5% in solution in water, sold under the name LIPIDURE-C by the company Nippon Oils and Fats; - the terpolymer of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / butyl methacrylate / sodium methacrylate 5% in solution in water, sold under the name LIPIDURE-A by the company Nippon Oils and Fats; and
- les copolymères de 2-(méthacryloyloxyéthyl) phosphorylcholine/méthacrylate de stéaryle vendus sous les dénominations LIPIDURE-S, LIPIDURE-NR, LIPIDURE-NA par la sociétécopolymers of 2- (methacryloyloxyethyl) phosphorylcholine / stearyl methacrylate sold under the names LIPIDURE-S, LIPIDURE-NR, LIPIDURE-NA by the company
Nippon Oils and Fats ; ces produits a pour nom CTFA : polyquaternium-61. Nippon Oils and Fats; these products are called CTFA: polyquaternium-61.
; les dérivés d'alcool po yvinylique ; vinyl alcohol derivatives
Le polyacétate de vinyle est un polymère vinylique fabriqué par polymérisation radicalaire du monomère acétate de vinyle puis hydrolysé, dans ce cas à 88%, pour obtenir l'alcool polyvinylique (PVA), le polymère qui nous intéresse dans cette étude présente le motif suivant :
Polyvinyl acetate is a vinyl polymer produced by radical polymerization of vinyl acetate monomer and then hydrolyzed, in this case to 88%, to obtain polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), the polymer of interest to us in this study has the following pattern:
Dans la présente invention, le PVA est utilisé sous sa forme hydrolysée c'est-à-dire en alcool polyvinylique hydrolysé à 88%. On peut en particulier utiliser le PVA vendu sous la dénomination CELVOL 540 PV ALCOHOL par la société CELANESE CHEMICALS In the present invention, the PVA is used in its hydrolysed form, that is to say in 88% hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol. It is possible in particular to use the PVA sold under the name CELVOL 540 PV ALCOHOL by the company CELANESE CHEMICALS
Activité biologique Biological activity
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le procédé selon l'invention est un procédé cosmétique pour modifier une activité biologique de la peau. In a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention is a cosmetic process for modifying a biological activity of the skin.
Le composé A peut être choisi pour permettre au matériau issu de la condensation de A de retenir des molécules actives (composé C).
Les molécules peuvent être actives une fois fixées sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A. Il est possible dans ce cas de bénéficier d'un effet prolongé de l'activité de la molécule active. Alternativement, les molécules actives peuvent être désactivées par la fixation mais peuvent être relarguées du condensât de A et éventuellement B dans le temps. Dans ce cas, il est également possible de bénéficier d'une activité prolongée. Compound A can be chosen to allow the material resulting from the condensation of A to retain active molecules (compound C). The molecules can be active once fixed on the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is possible in this case to benefit from a prolonged effect of the activity of the active molecule. Alternatively, the active molecules can be deactivated by fixation but can be released from the condensate of A and possibly B over time. In this case, it is also possible to benefit from a prolonged activity.
L'invention a donc également pour objet l'utilisation d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation, pour la capture sur la peau et la libération prolongée d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique ou dermatologique de la peau à activité prolongée, l'application sur la peau d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation, et d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA qui peut être relargué du matériau issu du condensât de A. The subject of the invention is therefore also the use of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and exhibiting at least one free reactive function F A after condensation, for capturing on the skin and releasing prolonged of a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin with prolonged activity, the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A capable of being condensed in situ and having at least one reactive function F A free after condensation, and a compound C of cosmetic or dermatological interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A which can be released from the material from the condensate of A.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, on peut fixer une molécule active par le biais de l'invention. Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, les composés A et C sont choisis de façon que le relargage puisse être déclenché, soit par une action naturelle (c'est par exemple le cas d'un relargage déclenché par l'arrivée de la transpiration), soit par une action humaine (c'est le cas d'une irradiation particulière, par exemple lumière (notamment UV, visible) ou encore chaleur. Ainsi, on peut utiliser des composés A et C, tels qu'ils soient dotés d'une liaison fragile, telles que thermo ou photoclivable. o Agents de traitement de la peau In a particular embodiment of the invention, an active molecule can be attached via the invention. In a particular embodiment, the compounds A and C are chosen so that the release can be triggered, either by a natural action (this is for example the case of a release triggered by the arrival of perspiration), either by a human action (this is the case of a particular irradiation, for example light (in particular UV, visible) or even heat.So we can use compounds A and C, as they are equipped with a brittle bond, such as thermo or photocleavable o Skin treatment agents
Le composé C peut être un agent de traitement de la peau choisi dans les listes suivantes. - agents hydratants ou humectants
Comme agents humectants ou hydratants, on peut citer notamment le glycérol et ses dérivés, l'urée et ses dérivés notamment l'Hydrovance® commercialisée par National Starch, les acides lactiques, l'acide hyaluromque, les AHA, les BHA, le pidolate de sodium, le xylitol, la sérine, le lactate de sodium, l'ectoine et ses dérivés, le chitosane et ses dérivés, le collagène, le plancton, un extrait d'imperata cylindra commercialisé sous la dénomination Moist 24® par la société Sederma, des homopolymères d'acide acrylique comme le Lipidure-HM® de NOF corporation, le beta-glucane et en particulier le sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucane de Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry ; un mélange d'huiles de passiflore, d'abricot, maïs, et son de riz commercialisé par Nestlé sous la dénomination NutraLipids®; un dérivé C-glycoside tel que ceux décrits dans la demande WO 02/051828 et en particulier le C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane sous forme d'une solution à 30 % en poids en matière active dans un mélange eau/propylène glycol (60/40 en poids) tel que le produit fabriqué par CHIMEX sous la dénomination commerciale « MEXORYL SBB® » ; une huile de rosier muscat commercialisée par Nestlé ; un extrait de micro-algue Prophyridium cruentum enrichi en zinc commercialisé par Vincience sous la dénomination Algualane Zinc®; des sphères de collagène et de chondroitine sulfate d'origine marine (Ateocollagen) commercialisées par la société Engelhard Lyon sous la dénomination sphères de comblement marines ; des sphères d'acide hyaluromque telles que celles commercialisées par la société Engelhard Lyon. - agents desquamants Compound C may be a skin treatment agent selected from the following lists. - moisturizing or humectant agents Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluromic acid, AHAs, BHAs, pidolate and the like. sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract sold under the name Moist 24® by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM® from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CPD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB®; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluromic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. - desquamating agents
Par « agent desquamant », on entend tout composé capable d'agir : By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:
- soit directement sur la desquamation en favorisant l'exfoliation, tel que les β-hydroxyacides (BHA), en particulier l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés (dont l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique autrement nommé capryloyl salicylic acid) ; les oc-hydroxyacides (AHA), tels que les acides glycolique, citrique, lactique, tartrique, malique et mandélique ; l'acide 8-hexadécène-l,16- dicarboxylique ou acide 9-octadécène dioïque ; l'urée et ses dérivés; l'acide gentisique et ses dérivés ; les oligofucoses ; l'acide cinnamique ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le resvératrol et certains dérivés d'acide jasmonique ; or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid); α-hydroxyacids (AHAs), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic and mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;
- soit sur les enzymes impliquées dans la desquamation ou la dégradation des cornéodesmosomes, les glycosidases, la stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym (SCCE) voire d'autres protéases (trypsine, chymotrypsine-like). On peut citer les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-l-propanesulfonique (HEPES) ; l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) et ses dérivés ; les dérivés
d'acides alpha aminés de type glycine (tels que décrits dans EP-0 852 949, ainsi que le méthyl glycine diacétate de sodium commercialisé par BASF sous la dénomination commerciale T ILON M) ; le miel ; les dérivés de sucre tels que l'O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose et la N-acétyl glucosamine. or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; drifts glycine-type alpha amino acids (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name T ILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.
Comme autres agents desquamants utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer : Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include:
les oligofructoses, l'EDTA et ses dérivés, les laminaria extract, le o-linoleyl-6D- glucose, l'acide (3-hydroxy-2pentylcyclopentyl) acétique, le trilactate de glycérol, ΓΟ- octanyl-6'-D-maltose, la S carboxyméthyl cystéine, les dérivés siliciés de salicylate comme ceux décrits dans le brevet EP 0 796 861, les oligofucases comme ceux décrits dans le brevet EP 0 218 200, les sels d'acide 5-acyl salicylique, des actifs ayant des effets sur la transglutaminase comme dans le brevet EP 0 899 330, oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, ΓΟ-octanyl-6'-D-maltose , S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon derivatives of salicylate such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucases such as those described in patent EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase, as in patent EP 0 899 330,
l'extrait de fleur de ficus opuntia indica comme l'Exfolactive® de Silab, ficus opuntia indica flower extract, such as Exfolactive® from Silab,
- l'acide 8-hexadécène 1,16-dicarboxylique, 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid,
les esters de glucose et de vitamine F, et glucose and vitamin F esters, and
leurs mélanges. their mixtures.
- agents améliorant la fonction barrière - agents improving the barrier function
Comme agents améliorant la fonction barrière, on peut citer notamment l'arginine, la sérine, un extrait de Thermus thermophilus tel que le Vénucéane® de Sederma, un extrait de rhizome d'igname sauvage (dioscorea villosa) tel que l'Actigen Y® d'Activé Organics, des extraits de plancton comme l'oméga plancton® de Secma, des extraits de levure comme le Relipidium® de Coletica, un extrait de châtaigne tel que la Recoverine® de Silab, un extrait de bourgeon de cèdre tel que le Gatuline Zen® de Gattefossé, des sphingosines comme la salicyloyl sphingosine vendue sous la dénomination « Phytosphingosine® SLC » par la société Degussa, un mélange de xylitol, de xylityl polyglycoside et de xylitan comme l'Aquaxyl® de Seppic, des extraits de solanacée comme le Lipidessence® de Coletica ; les huiles insaturées en oméga 3 telles que les huiles de rosier muscat et leurs mélanges. As agents improving the barrier function, mention may in particular be made of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane®, a wild yam rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y® Activated Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma omega plancton®, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium®, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverine®, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Aquaxyl® from Seppic, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence® from Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosebud oil and mixtures thereof.
On peut encore citer notamment les céramides ou dérivés, en particulier les céramides de type 2 (comme la N-oléoyldihydrosphingosine ), de type 3 (comme la stéaroyl-4- hydroxysphinganine en nom INCI) et de type 5 (comme la N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, ayant pour nom INCI hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine),
les composés à base de sphingoïdes, les glycosphingolipides, les phospho lipides, le cholestérol et ses dérivés, les phytostérols, les acides gras essentiels, le diacylglycérol, la 4- chromanone et dérivés de chromone la vaseline, la lanoline, les heures de karité, le cocoa butter, la lanoline, les sels PCA. Ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2) may also be mentioned in particular. hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, petrolatum, lanolin, hours of shea, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts.
; agents antioxydants ; antioxidants
On peut citer notamment le tocophérol et ses esters, en particulier l'acétate de tocophérol ; l'acide férulique ; la sérine ; l'acide ellagique, la phlorétine, les polyphénols, les tanins, l'acide tannique, l'époigallocathéchine et les extraits naturels en contenant, les anthocyanes, les extraits de romarin, les extraits de feuilles d'olivier comme ceux de la société Silab, les extraits de thé vert, le resvératrol et ses dérivés, l'ergothinéine, la N acétylcystéine, un extrait d'algue brune pelvetia canaliculata comme la Pelvetiane® de Secma, l'acide chlorogénique, la biotine, les chélatants, tels que le BHT, le BHA, le N,N'-bis(3,4,5-triméthoxybenzyl) cthylenediamine et ses sels ; l'idébénone, des extraits végétaux come le Pronalen Bioprotect TM de la société Provital ; le co enzyme Q10, les bioflavonoides, les SOD, le phytantriol, les lignanes, la mélatonine, les pidolates, le gluthation, le caprylyl glycol, la phlorétine, le TotarolTM ou extrait de Podocarpus totara contenant du totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-triénol ou 2- phenanthrenoL 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9, 10-octahydro-4b, 8, 8-triméthyl-l(l-méthyléthyl)- ; un extrait de jasmin tel que celui commercialisé par SILAB sous la dénomination Helisun® ; le laurate d'hespéritine tel que le Flavagrum PEG® de la société Engelhard Lyon ; un extrait de racine de Paeonia suffructicosa tel que celui commercialisé par la société Ichimaru Pharcos sous la dénomination Botanpi Liquid B® ; un extrait de litchi tel que l'extrait de péricarpe de litchi commercialisé par la société Cognis sous la dénomination Litchiderm LS 9704®, un extrait de fruit de grenade (Punica Granatum), tel que celui commercialisé par la société Draco Natural products. There may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves such as those of the company Silab , green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, an extract of brown alga pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane®, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenyl 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9,10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun®, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®; lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as the product marketed by Draco Natural products.
Comme autres agents anti-âge, on peut citer la DHEA et ses dérivés, l'acide boswellique, les extraits de romarin, les caroténoides (beta carotène, zéaxanthine, lutéine), l'acide cystéique, les dérivés de cuivre et l'acide jasmonique. Other anti-aging agents include DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (beta carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives and acid. jasmonic.
= agents dépigmentants = Depigmentation agents
Comme agents dépigmentants, on peut citer notamment l'alpha et la béta arbutines, l'acide férulique, le lucinol et ses dérivés, l'acide kojique, le résorcinol et ses dérivés, l'acide
tranexamique et ses dérivés, l'acide gentisique, Phomogentisate, le méthyl gentisate ou Phomogentisate , l'acide dioique, le D calcium panthéteine sulfonate, l'acide lipoique, l'acide ellagique, la vitamine B3, l'acide linoléique et ses dérivés, les céramides et leurs homologues, les dérivés de plantes comme la camomille, la busserole, la famille des aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis) , de mûrier, de scutellaire ; une eau de fruit de kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) commercialisée par Gattefosse, un extrait de racine de Paeonia suffructicosa tel que celui commercialisé par la société Ichimaru Pharcos sous la dénomination Botanpi Liquid B® , un extrait de sucre brun (Saccharum officinarum), tel que l'extrait de mélasse commercialisé par la société Taiyo Kagaku sous la dénomination Molasses Liquid, sans que cette liste soit exhaustive. As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular alpha and beta arbutines, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, the acid tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, Phomogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetin sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B®, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.
; agents dermorelaxants ou dermodécontractants ; dermorelaxing or dermodecontracting agents
On peut citer comme exemples le gluconate de manganèse et autres sels, l'adénosine, l'alvérine citrate et ses sels, la glycine, un extrait d'Iris pallida, un hexapeptide (Argériline R de Lipotec) ou les sapogénines comme le Wild yam et les aminés carbonylées décrites dans la demande EPI 484052. Comme exemples de sapogénines on peut citer celles décrites dans la demande de brevet WO02/47650, en particulier le Wild yam, la diosgénine extrait notamment de Dioscorea opposita ou tout extrait renfermant naturellement ou après traitement une ou plusieurs sapogénines (rhizome d'igname sauvage, feuille d'agave qui contient de Phécogénine et la tigogénine, extrait de liliacées et plus particulièrement le Yacca ou le smilax contenant la smilagéine et la sarsapogénine, ou la racine de salsepareille) ou l'Actigen Y de la société Actives Organics ; ou le gingembre. Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in the application EPI 484052. Examples of sapogenins include those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extract including Dioscorea opposita or any extract containing naturally or after treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf which contains ecogenin and tigogenin, extract of liliaceae and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing smilageine and sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla root) or Actigen Y from Actives Organics; or ginger.
On peut également citer le DMAE (diméthyl MEA), les extraits de criste marine, de ciste de Montpellier, d'hélicryse, d'anis, de Para cress, un extrait d'Acmella Oleracea comme la Gatuline® expression de Gattefossé. DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline® expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.
- agents anti-glycation - anti-glycation agents
Par « agent anti-glycation », on entend un composé prévenant et/ou diminuant la glycation des protéines de la peau, en particulier des protéines du derme, telles que le collagène. By "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen.
Comme agents anti-glycation, on peut citer notamment les extraits végétaux de la famille des Ericaceae, tels qu'un extrait de myrtille (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), par exemple celui vendu sous la dénomination « BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG »
par la société COSMETOCHEM, l'ergothionéine et ses dérivés, les hydroxystilbènes et leurs dérivés, tels que le resvératrol et le 3,3 ', 5,5 '-tétrahydroxystilbène (ces agents anti-glycation sont décrits dans les demandes FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 et FR 2 802 420, respectivement), les dihydroxystilbènes et leurs dérivés, les polypeptides d'arginine et de lysine tels que celui vendu sous la dénomination « AMADORINE® » par la société SOLABIA, le chorhydrate de carcinine (commercialisé par Exsymol sous la dénomination « ALISTIN®»), un extrait d'Hélianthus annuus comme l'Antiglyskin® de Silab, les extraits de vin tel que l'extrait de vin blanc en poudre sur support maltodextrine vendu sous la dénomination « Vin blanc déshydraté 2F » par la société Givaudan, l'acide thioctique (ou acide alpha lipoïque), un mélange d'extrait de busserole et de glycogène marin comme l'Aglycal LS 8777® de Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, un extrait de thé noir comme le Kombuchka® de Sederma et leurs mélanges. As anti-glycation agents, mention may in particular be made of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name "BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" by COSMETOCHEM, ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425 , FR 2 810 548, FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the name "Alistin®"), an extract of Helianthus annuus such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extracts such as white wine powder extract on maltodextrin support sold under the name denomination "White wine dehydrated 2F" by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a tea extract no ir like Sederma Kombuchka® and their mixtures.
- agents stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation
Parmi les actifs stimulant les macro molécules du derme ou empêchant leur dégradation, on peut citer ceux qui agissent : Among the active agents stimulating the macro molecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, there may be mentioned those which act:
- soit sur la synthèse du collagène, tels que les extraits de Centella asiatica, les asiaticosides et dérivés ; l'acide ascorbique ou vitamine C et ses dérivés ; les peptides de synthèse tels que la iamin, le biopeptide CL ou palmitoyloligopeptide commercialisé par la société SEDERMA ; les peptides extraits de végétaux, tels que l'hydrolysat de soja commercialisé par la société COLETICA sous la dénomination commerciale Phytokine® ; les peptides de riz tel que le Nutripeptide® de SILAB, le méthylsilanol mannuronate tel que l'Algisium C® commercialisé par Exsymol ; les hormones végétales telles que les auxines et les lignanes ; l'acide folique ; et un extrait de Medicago sativa (alfafa) tel que celui commercialisé par SILBA sous la dénomination Vitanol® ; un extrait peptidique de noisette tel que celui commercialisé par la société Solabia sous la dénomination Nuteline C® ; et l'arginine ; or on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; and arginine;
- soit sur l'inhibition de la dégradation du collagène, en particulier des agents agissant sur l'inhibition des métalloprotéinases (MMP) telles que plus particulièrement les MMP 1 , 2, 3, 9 . On peut citer : les rétinoïdes et dérivés, les extraits de medicago sativa tels que le Vitanol® de Silab, un extrait d'aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophycée) commercialisée sous la dénomination Lanablue® par Atrium Biotechnologies, les oligopeptides et les lipopeptides, les lipoaminoacides, l'extrait de malt commercialisé par la société COLETICA sous la
dénomination commerciale Collalift® ; les extraits de myrtille ou de romarin ; le lycopène ; les isoflavones, leurs dérivés ou les extraits végétaux en contenant, en particulier les extraits de soja (commercialisé par exemple par la société ICHIMARU PHARCOS sous la dénomination commerciale Flavostérone SB®), de trèfle rouge, de lin, de kakkon; un extrait de litchi tel que l'extrait de péricarpe de litchi commercialisé par la société Cognis sous la dénomination Litchiderm LS 9704®; la dipalmitoylhydroxyproline commercialisée par Seppic sous le nom SEPILIFT DPHP®, Baccharis genistelloide ou Baccharine commercialisé par SILAB, un extrait de moringa tel que l'Arganyl LS 9781® de Cognis ; l'extrait de sauge décrit dans la demande FR-A-2812544 de la famille des labiées (salvia officinalis de la société Flacksmann), l'extrait de Rhododendron, le blueberry extract, un extrait de vaccinium myrtillus tel que ceux décrits dans la demande FR-A-2814950 ; or on inhibiting the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as, more particularly, MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol® from Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the Collalift® trade name; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (sold for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB®), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®; dipalmitoylhydroxyproline marketed by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP®, Baccharis genistelloide or Baccharine marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781® from Cognis; the sage extract described in application FR-A-2812544 of the labiate family (salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), the Rhododendron extract, the blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in the application FR-A-2814950;
- soit sur la synthèse de molécules appartenant à la famille des élastines (élastine et fibrilline), tels que : le rétinol et dérivés en particulier le palmitate de rétinol ; l'extrait de Saccharomyces Cerivisiae commercialisé par la société LSN sous la dénomination commerciale Cytovitin® ; et l'extrait d'algue Macrocystis pyrifera commercialisé par la société SECMA sous la dénomination commerciale Kelpadelie® ; un extrait peptidique de noisette tel que celui commercialisé par la société Solabia sous la dénomination Nuteline C® ; or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®;
- soit sur l'inhibition de la dégradation de l'élastine tels que l'extrait peptidique de graines de Pisum sativum commercialisé par la société LSN sous la dénomination Parelastyl® ; les héparinoïdes ; et les composés N-acylaminoamides décrits dans la demande WO 01/94381 tels que l'acide {2-[acétyl-(3-trifluorométhyl-phényl)-amino]-3-méthyl-butyrylamino} acétique, autrement nommé N-[N-acétyl, N'-(3-trifluorométhyl)phényl valyljglycine ou N- acetyl-N-[3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]valyl-glycine ou acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, ou un ester de celui-ci avec un alcool en C1-C6. ; un extrait de peptides de riz tel que la Cothibin® de Pentapharm, ou un extrait de Phyllanthus emblica tel que l'Emblica® de Rona ; or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum marketed by the company LSN under the name Parelastyl®; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valylglycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C 1 -C 4 alcohol C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Cothibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica®;
- soit sur la synthèse des glycosaminoglycannes, tels que le produit de fermentation du lait par lactobacillus vulgaris, commercialisé par la société BROOKS sous la dénomination commerciale Biomin yogourth® ; l'extrait d'algue brune Padina pavonica commercialisé par la société ALBAN MÛLLER sous la dénomination commerciale HSP3® ; l'extrait de Saccharomyces cerevisiae disponible notamment auprès de la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Firmalift® ou auprès de la société LSN sous la dénomination
commerciale Cytovitin®. ; un extrait de Laminaria ochroleuca tel que la Laminaïne® de Secma ; l'essence de Mamaku de Lucas Meyer, un extrait de cresson (Odraline® de Silab) ; - soit sur la synthèse de la fibronectine, tels que l'extrait de zooplancton Salina commercialisé par la société SEPORGA sous la dénomination commerciale GP4G® ; l'extrait de levure disponible notamment auprès de la société ALBAN MÛLLER sous la dénomination commerciale Drieline® ; et le palmitoyl pentapeptide commercialisé par la société SEDERMA sous la dénomination commerciale Matrixil®. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN MÛLLER under the trade name HSP3®; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the name commercial Cytovitin®. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne® from Secma; Mamaku essence from Lucas Meyer, a watercress extract (Odraline® from Silab); or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the Salina zooplankton extract sold by Seporga under the trade name GP4G®; yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÛLLER under the trademark Drieline®; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the tradename Matrixil®.
Parmi les actifs stimulant les macromolécules épidermiques, telles que la fïllagrine et les kératines, on peut citer notamment l'extrait de lupin commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structurine® ; l'extrait de bourgeons de hêtre Fagus sylvatica commercialisé par la société GATTEFOSSE sous la dénomination commerciale Gatuline® RC; et l'extrait de zooplancton Salina commercialisé par la société SEPORGA sous la dénomination GP4G® ; le tripeptide de Cuivre de PROCYTE ; un extrait peptidique de Voandzeia substerranea tel que celui commercialisé par la société Laboratoires Sérobiologiques sous la dénomination commerciale Filladyn LS 9397®. Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fibrinlins and keratins, mention may in particular be made of the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trademark Structurine®; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by SEPORGA under the name GP4G®; the copper tripeptide of PROCYTE; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®.
Comme actifs préférés stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, on peut citer les peptides de synthèse tels que la iamin, le biopeptide CL ou palmitoyloligopeptide commercialisé par la société SEDERMA; les peptides extraits de végétaux, tels que l'hydrolysat de soja commercialisé par la société COLETICA sous la dénomination Phytokine® ; les peptides de riz tel que le Nutripeptide® de SILAB, le méthylsilanol mannuronate tel que l'Algisium C® commercialisé par Exsymol ; l'acide folique ; un extrait de Medicago sativa (alfafa) tel que celui commercialisé par SILBA sous la dénomination Vitanol® ; un extrait peptidique de noisette tel que celui commercialisé par la société Solabia sous la dénomination Nuteline C® ; l'arginine ; un extrait d'aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophycée) commercialisé sous la dénomination Lanablue® par Atrium Biotechnologies, l'extrait de malt commercialisé par la société COLETICA sous la dénomination Collalift® ; le lycopène ; un extrait de litchi ; un extrait de moringa tel que l'Arganyl LS 9781® de Cognis ; un extrait de vaccinium myrtillus tel que ceux décrits dans la demande FR-A-2814950 ; le rétinol et dérivés en particulier le palmitate de rétinyle; l'acide { 2-[acétyl-(3 -trifluorométhyl-phény l)-amino] -3 -méthyl-butyrylamino } acétique, autrement nommé N-[N-acétyl, N'-(3-trifluorométhyl)phényl valyl]glycine ou N-acetyl-N-[3-
(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]valyl-glycine ou acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, ou un ester de celui-ci avec un alcool en C1-C6. ; un extrait de peptides de riz tel que la Colhibin® de Pentapharm, ou un extrait de Phyllanthus emblica tel que l'Emblica® de Rona ; l'extrait d'algue brune Padina pavonica commercialisé par la société ALBAN MÛLLER sous la dénomination commerciale HSP3® ; l'extrait de Saccharomyces cerevisiae disponible notamment auprès de la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Firmalift® ou auprès de la société LSN sous la dénomination commerciale Cytovitin®. ; un extrait de Laminaria ochroleuca tel que la Laminaïne® de Secma ; l'essence de Mamaku de Lucas Meyer, l'extrait de lupin commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structunne® ; l'extrait de bourgeons de hêtre Fagus sylvatica commercialisé par la société GATTEFOSSE sous la dénomination commerciale Gatuline® RC. As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate sold by the company Coletica under the name Phytokine®; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide® from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C® marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol®; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; arginine; an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue® by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the name Collalift®; lycopene; an extract of lychee; moringa extract such as Cognis Arganyl LS 9781®; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinyl palmitate; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin®, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica®; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by ALBAN MÛLLER under the trade name HSP3®; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company Silab under the trade name Firmalift® or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin®. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne® from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the tradename Structunne®; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline® RC.
- agents stimulant la prolifération des flbroblastes ou des kératinocytes et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes agents stimulating the proliferation of flbroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes
Les agents stimulant la prolifération des flbroblastes utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention peuvent par exemple être choisis parmi les protéines ou polypeptides végétaux, extraits notamment du soja (par exemple un extrait de soja commercialisé par la société LSN sous la dénomination Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® ou commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Raffermine®) ; un extrait de protéines hydrolysées de soja tel que le RIDULISSE® de SILAB ; et les hormones végétales telles que les giberrellines et les cytokinines ; un extrait peptidique de noisette tel que celui commercialisé par la société Solabia sous la dénomination Nuteline C®. The agents stimulating the proliferation of flbroblasts that may be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG). 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.
De préférence on utilisera un agent favorisant la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes. Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.
Les agents stimulant la prolifération des kératinocytes utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, comprennent notamment l'adénosine ; le phloroglucinol, l'extrait de feuille d'hydrangea macrophylla comme l'Amacha liquid E® d'Ichimaru Pharcos, un extrait de levure tel que le Stimoderm® de CLR, l'extrait de Larrea divaricata tel que le Capislow® de Sederma, les mélanges d'extraits de papaye, de feuilles d'olivier et de citron tel que la Xyléine® de Vincience, l'extrait de feuille d'hydrangea macrophylla comme l'Amacha liquid E® d'Ichimaru Pharcos, le rétinol et ses esters dont le palmitate de rétinyle, le phloroglucinol,
les extraits de tourteaux de noix commercialisés par Gattefosse et les extraits de solanum tuberosum tel que le Dermolectine® commercialisé par Sederma. The agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes that can be used in the composition according to the invention include in particular adenosine; phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos Amacha liquid E®, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm®, Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma Capislow®, mixtures of extracts of papaya, olive leaves and lemon such as Xyléine® from Vincience, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, walnut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin® marketed by Sederma.
Parmi les agents stimulant la différenciation des kératinocytes comprennent par exemple les minéraux tels que le calcium; la criste marine, un extrait peptidique de lupin tel que celui commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structurine®, le beta- sitosteryl sulfate de sodium tel que celui commercialisé par la société SEPORGA sous la dénomination commerciale Phytocohésine®, un extrait hydrosoluble de maïs tel que celui commercialisé par la société SOLABIA sous la dénomination commerciale Phytovityl® ; un extrait peptidique de Voandzeia substerranea tel que celui commercialisé par la société Laboratoires Sérobio logiques sous la dénomination commerciale Filladyn LS 9397® ; et les lignanes tels que le sécoisolaricirésinol, le rétinol et ses esters dont le palmitate de rétinyle. Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as the product marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®, sodium betasitosteryl sulphate, such as the product marketed by Seporga under the trade name Phytocohesine®, a water-soluble extract of corn such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobio Logiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.
Comme agents stimulant la prolifération et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, on peut citer encore les œstrogènes tel que l'œstradiol et homologues ; les cytokines. As agents stimulating proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.
Comme actifs stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes ou des kératinocytes et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes préférés, on citera des protéines ou polypeptides végétaux, extraits notamment du soja (par exemple un extrait de soja commercialisé par la société LSN sous la dénomination Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® ou commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Raffermine®) ; un extrait de protéines hydrolysées de soja tel que le RIDULISSE® de SILAB ; un extrait peptidique de noisette tel que celui commercialisé par la société Solabia sous la dénomination Nuteline C® ; l'adénosine ; le phloroglucinol, un extrait de levure tel que le Stimoderm® de CLR ; un extrait peptidique de lupin tel que celui commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structurine®; un extrait hydrosoluble de maïs tel que celui commercialisé par la société SOLABIA sous la dénomination commerciale Phytovityl®; un extrait peptidique de Voandzeia substerranea tel que celui commercialisé par la société Laboratoires Sérobiologiques sous la dénomination commerciale Filladyn LS 9397® ; le rétinol et ses esters dont le palmitate de rétinyle. As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybeans (for example a soybean extract marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or sold by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine®); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE® from SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm® from CLR; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine®; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl®; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.
- agents favorisant la maturation de l'enveloppe cornée - agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope
On pourra utiliser dans les compositions de l'invention des agents qui interviennent sur la maturation de l'enveloppe cornée qui s'altère avec l'âge et induit une diminution de l'activité
des transglutaminases. On peut citer par exemple l'urée et ses dérivés et en particulier l'Hydrovance® de National Starch et les autres actifs mentionnés dans la demande L'OREAL FR2877220 (non publiée). - inhibiteurs de NO-svnthases It will be possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which intervene on the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in activity. transglutaminases. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished). - inhibitors of NO-svnthases
L'agent ayant une action d'inhibiteur de NO synthase peut être choisi parmi les OPC (oligomères procyanidoliques) ; les extraits de végétal de l'espèce Vitis vinifera notamment commercialisés par la société Euromed sous la dénomination Leucocyanidines de raisins extra, ou encore par la société Indena sous la dénomination Leucoselect®, ou enfin par la société Hansen sous la dénomination Extrait de marc de raisin ; les extraits de végétal de l'espèce Olea europaea de préférence obtenus à partir de feuilles d'olivier et notamment commercialisés par la société VINYALS sous forme d'extrait sec, ou par la société Biologia & Technologia sous la dénomination commerciale Eurol® BT ; les extraits d'un végétal de l'espèce Gingko biloba de préférence un extrait aqueux sec de ce végétal vendu par la société Beaufour sous le nom commercial Ginkgo biloba extrait standard et leurs mélanges. The agent having a NO synthase inhibitor action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect®, or finally by the company Hansen under the name grape marc extract ; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by the company VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by the company Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol® BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba standard extract and mixtures thereof.
; antagonistes des récepteurs périphériques des benzodiazépines (PBR) ; Peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists
On peut citer par exemple le l-(2-chlorophenyl)-N-(l-methyl-propyl)-3-isoquinoline carboxamide ; les composés décrits dans les demandes WO03/030937, WO03/068753, dérivés de pyridazino[4, 5-b] indole-l-acétamide de formule générale (VII) tels que décrits dans le document WO00/44384. There may be mentioned, for example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide; the compounds described in applications WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in document WO00 / 44384.
- agents augmentant l'activité de la glande sébacée agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland
On peut citer par exemple le déhydrojasmonate de méthyle, l'hécogénine, l'hédione, le O- linoléyl-6D-glucose et leurs mélanges. Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, O-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof.
- agents stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules - Agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells
L'actif stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules peut par exemple être choisi parmi la biotine, un extrait de Saccharomyces Cerevisiae tel que le Phosphovital® de Sederma, le mélange de sels de sodium, de manganèse, de zinc et de magnésium d'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique comme le Physiogenyl® de Solabia, un mélange de gluconate de zinc, de cuivre et de magnésium tel que le Sepitonic M3® de Seppic et leurs mélanges ; un beta-glucane issu de Saccharomyces Cerevisiae tel que celui commercialisé par la société Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
Agents de traitement du cuir chevelu The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells can for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of salts of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3® Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces Cerevisiae such as that marketed by Mibelle AG Biochemistry. Scalp treatment agents
Les agents de traitement du cuir chevelu peuvent notamment être des actifs anti-pelliculaires, par exemple le Zinc Pyrithione en dispersion aqueuse tel que le Zinc Omadine Pyrithione d'Arch Personal Care, ou l'octopyrox, ou le kétakonazole, ou le disulfure de sélénium, ou le Tea Tree Oil. The agents for treating the scalp may in particular be anti-dandruff active agents, for example Zinc Pyrithione in aqueous dispersion such as Zinc Omadine Pyrithione by Arch Personal Care, or octopyrox, or ketakonazole, or selenium disulphide. , or the Tea Tree Oil.
La Demanderesse a pu mettre en évidence que la mise en contact d'une dispersion de Zinc Pyrithione sur un film d' APTES s'accompagne d'une floculation quasi immédiate de la dispersion de Zinc Pyrithione. Une telle floculation permet d'améliorer le dépôt d'actif sur le cuir chevelu. Agent photoprotecteurs et filtres The Applicant has been able to demonstrate that the contacting of a Zinc Pyrithione dispersion on an APTES film is accompanied by an almost immediate flocculation of the Zinc Pyrithione dispersion. Such flocculation improves the deposit of active on the scalp. Photoprotective agent and filters
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le procédé selon l'invention est un procédé cosmétique cosmétique de protection contre un rayonnement, notamment contre le rayonnement UV, dans lequel le composé C est choisi parmi les agents photoprotecteurs, en particulier parmi les filtres UV. In a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention is a cosmetic cosmetic process for protection against radiation, in particular against UV radiation, in which compound C is chosen from photoprotective agents, in particular from UV screening agents.
Les filtres UV organiques sont notamment choisis parmi les dérivés cinnamiques ; les anthranilates ; les dérivés salicyliques, les dérivés de dibenzoylméthane, les dérivés du camphre ; les dérivés de la benzophénone ; les dérivés de β,β-diphénylacrylate ; les dérivés de triazine ; les dérivés de benzotriazole ; les dérivés de benzalmalonate notamment ceux cités dans le brevet US5624663 ; les dérivés de benzimidazole ; les imidazolines ; les dérivés bis- benzoazolyle tels que décrits dans les brevets EP669323 et US 2,463,264; les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque (PABA) ; les dérivés de méthylène bis-(hydroxyphényl benzotriazole) tels que décrits dans les demandes US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 et EP8931 19 ; les dérivés de benzoxazole tels que décrits dans les demandes de brevet EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 et DE10162844 ; les polymères filtres et silicones filtres tels que ceux décrits notamment dans la demande WO-93/04665 ; les dimères dérivés d' -alkylstyrène tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet DE 19855649 ; les 4,4-diarylbutadiènes tels que décrits dans les demandes EP0967200, DE 19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 et EP133981 ; les dérivés de mérocyanine tels que
ceux décrits dans les demandes WO04/006878, WO05/058269 et WO06/032741 et leurs mélanges. Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from -alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE 19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in WO04 / 006878, WO05 / 058269 and WO06 / 032741 and mixtures thereof.
Comme exemples d'agents photoprotecteurs organiques complémentaires, on peut citer ceux désignés ci-dessous sous leur nom 1NCI : As examples of complementary organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those designated below under their name 1NCI:
Dérivés cinnamiques : Cinnamic derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Methoxyciimamate vendu notamment sous le nom commercial PARSOL MCX par DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Ethylhexyl Methoxyciimamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
Isopropyl Methoxycirmamate Isopropyl Methoxycirmamate
Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate vendu sous le nom commercial NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 par Symrise Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by Symrise
DEA Methoxycinnamate, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate
Dérivés de dibenzoylméthane : Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane vendu notamment sous le nom commercial PARSOL 1789 par DSM, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM,
Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane. Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
Dérivés de l'acide para-aminobenzoique : Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid:
PABA, PABA
Ethyl PABA, Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Diméthyl PABA vendu notamment sous le nom « ESCALOL 507 » par ISP, Glyceryl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA vendu sous le nom « UVINUL P25 » par BASF, Dérivés salicyliques : PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF, Salicylic derivatives:
Homosalate vendu sous le nom « Eusolex HMS » par Rona/EM Industries, Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate vendu sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN OS » par Symrise Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Symrise
Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate vendu sous le nom « DIPSAL » par SCHER, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER,
TEA Salicylate, vendu sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN TS » par Symrise,
Dérivés de β,β-diphénylacrylate : TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by Symrise, Derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate:
Octocrylene vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N539 » par BASF, Etocrylene, vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N35 » par BASF, Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,
Dérivés de la benzophénone : Derivatives of benzophenone:
Benzophenone- 1 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL 400 » par BASF, Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF,
Benzophenone-2 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL D50 » par BASF Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
Benzophenone-3 ou Oxybenzone, vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL M40 » par BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-4 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL MS40 » par BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-5
Benzophenone-6 vendu sous le nom commercial « Helisorb 11 » par Norquay Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay
Benzophenone-8 vendu sous le nom commercial « Spectra-Sorb UV-24 » par American Cyanamid Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid
Benzophenone-9 vendu sous le nom commercial« UVINUL DS-49» par BASF, Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF,
Benzophenone- 12 Benzophenone- 12
2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL A+ » ou en mélange avec l'octylmethoxycinnamate sous le nom commercial « UVINUL A+B » par la société BASF. N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate sold under the trade name "Uvinul A +" or in a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "Uvinul A + B" by the company BASF.
Dérivés du benzylidène camphre : Derivatives of benzylidene camphor:
3- Benzylidene camphor fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SD» par CHIMEX, 3- Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX,
4- Methylbenzylidene camphor vendu sous le nom « EUSOLEX 6300 » par MERCK , Benzylidène Camphor Sulfonic Acid fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SL» par CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SO » par CHIMEX, 4- Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl So" by Chimex,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SX » par CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by CHIMEX,
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidène Camphor fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SW » par CHIMEX, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX,
Dérivés du phenyl benzimidazole :
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « EUSOLEX 232 » par MERCK, Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate vendu sous le nom commercial « NEO HELIOPAN AP » par Symrise, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP" by Symrise,
Dérivés du phenyl benzotriazole : Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane vendu sous le nom « Silatrizole » par RHODIA CHIMIE , Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie,
Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl TetramethylbutylphénoL, vendu sous forme solide sous le nom commercial « MIXXIM BB/100 » par FAIRMOU T CHEMICAL ou sous forme micronisée en dispersion aqueuse sous le nom commercial « TINOSORB M » par CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOU T CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name "TINOSORB M" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,
Dérivés de triazine : Triazine derivatives:
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine vendu sous le nom commercial «TINOSORB S » par CIBA GEIGY, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by CIBA GEIGY,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial «UVINUL T150 » par BASF, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone vendu sous le nom commercial « UVASORB HEB » par SIGMA 3V, - Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V,
- la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine
- la 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine,
- la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-s- triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,
- les filtres triazines symétriques décrits dans le brevet US6,225,467, la demande WO2004/085412 (voir composés 6 et 9) ou le document « Symetrical Triazine Derivatives » the symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" document;
IP.COM Journal , IP.COM INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 septembre 2004) notamment les 2,4,6-tris-(biphényl)-l,3,5-triazines (en particulier la 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl- 1,3, 5 -triazine et la 2,4,6-tris(te henyl)-l,3,5-triazine qui est repris dans les demandes de brevet WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985. IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (especially 2,4,6-tris). tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris (henyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985.
Dérivés anthraniliques : Anthranilic derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate vendu sous le nom commercial commercial « NEO HELIOPAN MA » par SYMRISE,
Dérivés d'imidazolines : Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by SYMRISE, Imidazoline derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Dérivés du benzalmalonate : Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Benzalmalonate Derivatives:
Polyorganosiloxane à fonctions benzalmalonate comme le Polysilicone-15 vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « PARSOL SLX » par DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
Dérivés de 4,4-diarylbutadiène : 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
-1 ,1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène -1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-Dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene
Dérivés de benzoxazole : Benzoxazole derivatives:
2,4-bis-[5-l(diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino- 1 ,3,5-triazine vendu sous le nom d'Uvasorb K2A par Sigma 3V 2,4-bis- [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V
et leurs mélanges. and their mixtures.
Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi The preferred organic screening agents are selected from
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate, homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene, Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-3,
Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-4,
Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-5,
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle. N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate.
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,
Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Ethylhexyl triazone, Ethylhexyl triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine
la 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine
la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-s- triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,
la 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl-l,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine
la 2,4,6-tris(te henyl)-l ,3,5-triazine 2,4,6-tris (tehenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
Drometrizole Trisiloxane Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Polysilicone-15 Polysilicon-15
1 , 1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène 1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene
2,4-bis-[5-l(diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phen^ 2,4-bis [5-l (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phen ^
1,3, 5 -triazine 1,3,5-triazine
et leurs mélanges. and their mixtures.
Les filtres UV inorganiques utilisés conformément à la présente invention sont des pigments d'oxyde métallique. Plus préférentiellement, les filtres UV inorganiques de l'invention sont des particules d'oxyde métallique ayant une taille moyenne de particule élémentaire inférieure ou égale à 500 nm, plus préférentiellement comprise entre 5 nm et 500 nm, et encore plus préférentiellement comprise entre 10 nm et 100 nm, et préférentiellement entre 15 et 50 nm. Ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi les oxydes de titane, de zinc, de fer, de zirconium, de cérium ou leurs mélanges. The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 500 nm, and even more preferentially between 10 nm. and 100 nm, and preferably between 15 and 50 nm. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
De tels pigments d'oxydes métalliques, enrobés ou non enrobés sont en particulier décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A- 0 518 773. A titre de pigments commerciaux on peut mentionner les produits vendus les sociétés Kemira, Tayca, Merck et Degussa. Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
Les pigments d'oxydes métalliques peuvent être enrobés ou non enrobés. The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
Les pigments enrobés sont des pigments qui ont subi un ou plusieurs traitements de surface de nature chimique, électronique, mécanochimique et/ou mécanique avec des composés tels que des aminoacides, de la cire d'abeille, des acides gras, des alcools gras, des tensio-actifs anioniques, des lécithines, des sels de sodium, potassium, zinc, fer ou aluminium d'acides gras, des alcoxydes métalliques (de titane ou d'aluminium), du polyéthylène, des silicones, des
protéines (collagène, élastine), des alcanolamines, des oxydes de silicium, des oxydes métalliques ou de l'hexamétaphosphate de sodium. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Les pigments enrobés sont plus particulièrement des oxydes de titane enrobés : The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- de silice tels que le produit "SUNVEIL" de la société IKEDA, silica such as the product "SUNVEIL" from the company IKEDA,
- de silice et d'oxyde de fer tels que le produit "SUNVEIL F" de la société IKEDA, silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA,
- de silice et d'alumine tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" ef'MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" de la société TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" de la société TIOXIDE, silica and alumina, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,
- d'alumine tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" et "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" de la société ISHIHARA, et "UVT 14/4" de la société KEMIRA, alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- d'alumine et de stéarate d'aluminium tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" de la société TAYCA, les produits "Solaveil CT-10 W" et "Solaveil CT 100" de la société UNIQEMA et le produit " Eusolex T-AVO" de la société MERCK, aluminum alumina and stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil" CT 100 "from UNIQEMA and the product" Eusolex T-AVO "from MERCK,
- de silice, d'alumine et d'acide alginique tel que le produit " MT-100 AQ" de la société TAYCA, silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
- d'alumine et de laurate d'aluminium tel que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" de la société TAYCA, alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA,
- d'oxyde de fer et de stéarate de fer tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" de la société TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from the company TAYCA,
- d'oxyde de zinc et de stéarate de zinc tels que le produit "BR 351 " de la société TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351" from the company Tayca,
- de silice et d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS"de la société TAYCA, silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS" from the company TAYCA,
- de silice, d'alumine, de stéarate d'aluminium et traités par une silicone tels que le produit "STT-30-DS" de la société TITAN KOGYO, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" from TITAN KOGYO,
- de silice et traité par une silicone tel que le produit "UV-TITAN X 195" de la société KEMIRA, silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA,
- d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" de la société ISHIHARA, ou "UV TITAN M 262" de la société KEMIRA, of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from KEMIRA,
- de triéthanolamine tels que le produit "STT-65-S" de la société TITAN KOGYO, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO,
- d'acide stéarique tels que le produit "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" de la société ISHIHARA,
d'hexamétaphosphate de sodium tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" de la société TAYCA. stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" from ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" from the company TAYCA.
- le Ti02 traité par l'octyl triméthyl silane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "T 805" par la société DEGUSSA SILICES, the TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices,
- le TÏ02 traité par un polydiméthylsiloxane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3" par la société CARDRE, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3" by CARDRE,
- le Ti02 anatase/rutile traité par un polydiméthylhydrogénosiloxane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXYDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" par la société COLOR TECHNIQUES. the anatase / rutile TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.
Les pigments d'oxyde de titane non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société TAYCA sous les dénominations commerciales "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", par la société DEGUSSA sous la dénomination "P 25", par la société WACKHER sous la dénomination "Oxyde de titane transparent PW", par la société MIYOSHI KASEI sous la dénomination "UFTR", par la société TOMEN sous la dénomination "ITS" et par la société TIOXIDE sous la dénomination "TIOVEIL AQ". Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".
Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc non enrobés, sont par exemple : - ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Z-cote" par la société Sunsmart ; The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox" par la société Elementis ; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard WCD 2025" par la société Nanophase Technologies ; Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc enrobés sont par exemple : those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Oxide zinc CS-5" par la société Toshibi (ZnO enrobé par polymethylhydrogenesiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" par la société Nanophase Technologies (en dispersion à 40% dans le Finsolv TN, benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15) ; those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" et "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" par la société Daito (dispersions dans cyclopolyméthylsiloxane /polydiméthylsiloxane oxyéthyléné, contenant 30% ou 50% de nano-oxydes de zinc enrobés par la silice et le polyméthylhydrogènesiloxane) ;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" par la société Daikin (ZnO enrobé par phosphate de perfluoroalkyle et copolymère à base de perfluoroalkyléthyle en dispersion dans du cyclopentasiloxane) ; those sold under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "SPD-Z1" par la société Shin-Etsu (ZnO enrobé par polymère acrylique greffé silicone, dispersé dans cyclodiméthylsiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Escalol Z100" par la société ISP (ZnO traité alumine et dispersé dans le mélange methoxycinnamate d'ethylhexyle / copolymère PVP- hexadecene / methicone) ; those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" par la société Fuji Pigment (ZnO enrobé silice et polymethylsilsesquioxane) ; those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox Gel TN" par la société Elementis (ZnO dispersé à 55% dans du benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15 avec polycondensat d'acide hydroxystéarique) . Les pigments d'oxyde de cérium non enrobés peuvent être par exemple ceux vendus sous la dénomination "COLLOÏDAL CERIUM OXIDE" par la société RHONE POULENC. those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC.
Les pigments d'oxyde de fer non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", ou par la société MITSUBISHI sous la dénomination "TY-220". Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 ".
Les pigments d'oxyde de fer enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", ou par la société BASF sous la dénomination "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT". The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008" (FE 45B FN) "," NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL ", or by the company BASF under the name" OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
On peut également citer les mélanges d'oxydes métalliques, notamment de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium, dont le mélange équipondéral de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium enrobés de silice, vendu par la société IKEDA sous la dénomination "SUNVEIL A", ainsi que le mélange de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de zinc enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de silicone tel que le produit "M 261" vendu par la société KEMIRA ou enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de glycérine tel que le produit "M 21 1" vendu par la société KEMIRA.
Selon l'invention, les pigments d'oxyde de titane, enrobés ou non enrobés, sont particulièrement préférés. Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 21 1" sold by KEMIRA. According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
Le système photoprotecteur selon l'invention est de préférence présent dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0, 1 % à 40 % en poids et en particulier de 5 à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The photoprotective system according to the invention is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.
> Odeur II est possible pour conférer à la peau une odeur d'utiliser des molécules C odorantes, dont le caractère odorant peut être désactivé par la fixation mais qui peuvent être relarguées du matériau issu de la condensation de A dans le temps, régénérant ainsi leur caractère odorant. Le relargage pouvant être progressif dans le temps, il est possible de bénéficier d'un effet odorant prolongé. > Odor It is possible to give the skin an odor of using odorant C molecules, whose odor character can be deactivated by fixation but which can be released from the material resulting from the condensation of A over time, thus regenerating their odorous character. The release may be progressive over time, it is possible to benefit from an extended odor effect.
Le composé C peut typiquement être choisi parmi les composés aldéhydiques tels que les dérivés terpéniques aldéhydés ou les cétones, par exemple la menthone, le citronellal ou le citral. Les parfums sont des compositions contenant notamment les matières premières décrites dans S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J., 1969), dans S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J., 1960) et dans "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Pubiishing Co. Wheaton, 111. II peut s'agir de produits naturels (huiles essentielles, absolus, résinoïdes, résines, concrètes) et/ou synthétiques) plus particulièrement comprenant au moins un composé aldéhydes et/ou un composé cétone, saturé ou insaturé, aliphatique ou cyclique. Compound C may typically be selected from aldehyde compounds such as aldehyde terpene derivatives or ketones, for example menthone, citronellal or citral. Fragrances are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in " It may be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes) and / or synthetic products) more particularly comprising at least one aldehyde compound and or a ketone compound, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
Selon la définition donnée dans la norme internationale ISO 9235 et adoptée par la Commission de la Pharmacopée Européenne, une huile essentielle est un produit odorant généralement de composition complexe, obtenu à partir d'une matière première végétale botaniquement définie, soit par entraînement à la vapeur d'eau, soit par distillation sèche, soit par un procédé mécanique approprié sans chauffage (Expression à froid). L'huile essentielle
est le plus souvent séparée de la phase aqueuse par un procédé physique n'entraînant pas de changement significatif de la composition. According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process not causing a significant change in the composition.
Les huiles essentielles sont en général volatiles et liquides à température ambiante, ce qui les différencie des huiles dites fixes. Elles sont plus ou moins colorées et leur densité est en général inférieure à celle de l'eau. Elles ont un indice de réfraction élevée et la plupart dévient la lumière polarisée. Elles sont liposolubles et solubles dans les solvants organiques usuels, entraînables à la vapeur d'eau, très peu solubles dans l'eau. Parmi les huiles essentielles utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer celles obtenues à partir des plantes appartenant aux familles botaniques suivantes : Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water. Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:
Abiétaceés ou Pinacées : conifères Abietaceous or Pinaceae: conifers
Amaryllidacées Amaryllidaceae
Anacardiacées Anacardiaceae
Anonacées : ylang ylang Anonaceae: ylang ylang
Apiacées (par exemple les ombellifères) : aneth, angénique, coriandre, criste marine, carotte, persil Apiaceae (eg umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley
Aracées Araceae
Aristolochiacées Aristolochiaceae
Astéracées : achilée, armoise, camomille, hélichryse Asteraceae: achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse
Bétulacées bétulacées
Brassicacées Brassicaceae
Burséracées : encens Burseraceae: incense
Caryophyllacées Pink Family
Canellacées Canellacées
Césalpiniacées : copaïfera (copahu) Césalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu)
Chénopodacées Chénopodacées
Cistacées : ciste Cistaceae: rockrose
Cypéracées sedges
Diptérocarpacées Dipterocarpaceae
Ericacées : gaulthérie (wintergreen) Ericaceae: Wintergreen
Euphorbiacées Spurge
Fabacées
Geraniacées : géranium Fabaceae Geraniaceae: geranium
Guttifères Guttiferae
Hamamélidacées Hamamelidaceae
Hernandiacées Hernandiacées
Hypéricacées : millepertuis Hypericaceae: St. John's wort
Iridacées Iridacées
Juglandacées Juglandacées
Lamiacées : thym, origan, monarde, sarriette, basilic, marjolaines, menthes, patchouli, lavandes, sauges, cataire, romarin, hysope, mélisse, romarin Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary
Lauracées : ravensara, laurier, bois de rose, cannelle, litséa Lauraceae: ravensara, bay leaves, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea
Liliacées : ail Liliaceae: garlic
Magnoliacées : magnolia Magnoliaceae: magnolia
Malvacées Malvaceae
Méliacées Meliaceae
Monimiacées Monimiacées
Moracées : chanvre, houblon Moraceae: hemp, hops
Myricacées Myricaceae
Mysristicacées : muscade Mysristicaceae: nutmeg
Myrtacées : eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, girofle, myrte Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle
Oléacées Oleaceae
Pipéracées : poivre Piperaceae: pepper
Pittosporacées Pittosporacées
Poacées : citronnelle, lemongrass, vétiver Poaceae: Lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver
Polygonacées Polygonaceae
Renonculacées Buttercup
Rosacées : roses Rosaceae: roses
Rubiacées Rubiaceae
Rutacées : tous les citrus Rutaceae: all citrus
Salicacées Salicaceae
Santalacées : santal Santalaceae: sandalwood
Saxifragacées Saxifragaceae
Schisandracées Schisandracées
Styracacées : benjoin Styracaceae: benzoin
Thymélacées : bois d'agar
Tilliacées Thymelaceae: agarwood Tilliacées
Valérianacées : valériane, nard Valerianaceae: valerian, nard
Verbénacées : lantana, verveine Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena
Violacées purplish
Zingibéracées : galanga, curcuma, cardamome, gingembre Zingiberaceae: galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger
Zygophyllacées Zygophyllaceae
On peut citer également les huiles essentielles extraites de fleurs (lis, lavande, rose, jasmin, yilang-ylang, néroli), de tiges et de feuilles (patchouli, géranium, petit-grain), de fruits (coriandre, anis, cumin, genièvre), d'écorces de fruits (bergamote, citron, orange), de racines (angélique, céleri, cardamome, iris, acore, gingembre), de bois (bois de pin, santal, gaïac, cèdre rose, camphre), d'herbes et de graminées (estragon, romarin, basilic, lemon grass, sauge, thym), d'aiguilles et de branches (épicéa, sapin, pin, pin nain), de résines et de baumes ( galbanum, élémi, benjoin, myrrhe, oliban, opopanax). We can also mention the essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, yilang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petit-grain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), d herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh , oliban, opopanax).
Des exemples de substances parfumantes sont notamment : l'alpha -hexylcinnamaldéhyde, le 2-méthyl-3-(p-tert-butylphényl)propanal, le 2-méthyl-3-(p-isopropylphényl)propanal, le 3-(p- tert-butylphényl)-propanal, le 2,4-diméthylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldéhyde„ le 4-(4-hydroxy- 4-méthylpentyl)-3-cyclohexènecarboxaldéhyde, le 4-(4-méthyl-3-pentènyl)-3- cyclohexènecarboxaldéhyde, le 4-acétoxy-3-pentyl-tétrahydropyrane, le 3-carboxyméthyl-2- pentylcyclopentane, la 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, la 3-méthyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentènone, la menthone, la carvone, la tagétone, la géranyl acétone, le n-décanal, le n-dodécanal, le 9- décènol-1, le phényl-acétaldéhyde diméthyl-acétal, le phénylacétaldéhyde diéthylacétal, le citral, le citronellal, l'hydroxycitronellal, la damascone, les ionones, les méthylionones, les isométhylionones, la solanone, les irones, 1 les cétones macrocycliques, les muscs- macrolactones, le brassylate d'éthylène et leurs mélanges. Examples of perfuming substances include: alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal, 2-methyl-3- (p-isopropylphenyl) propanal, 3- (p- tert-butylphenyl) -propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde "4- (4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4- (4-methyl-3-pentenyl) - 3- cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, macrocyclic ketones, musc-macrolactones, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, on utilise un mélange de différentes substances parfumantes qui engendrent en commun une note plaisante pour l'utilisateur. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user.
On choisira de préférence les substances parfumantes de telles sorte qu'elle produisent des notes (tête, cœur et fond) dans les familles suivantes The perfumes are preferably chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and background) in the following families
les hespéridés, the hesperidae,
les aromatiques,
les notes florales, aromatics, floral notes,
les épicées, the spicy ones,
les boisées, the woodlands,
les gourmands, gourmands,
les chyprés, the chypre,
les fougères, ferns,
les cuirés, leather,
les muscs. Le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) et le composé C sont choisis en fonction de la (des) propriété(s) que l'on désire conférer à la peau. the musks. The compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the compound C are chosen as a function of the property (or properties) which it is desired to confer on the skin.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, le composé A est un alcoxysilane à fonction de capture aminé primaire et le composé C est une molécule portant une fonction susceptible de réagir avec une aminé libre. Dans un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, le composé A est l'APTES et le composé C est choisi dans le groupe constitué de la DHA, l'aldéhyde cinnamique (ou cinammaldéhyde), le mexoryl SX (INCI: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), le zinc pyrithione, la vitamine C, le citronellal, le citral, le nonanal, l'hydroxycitronellal et un polymère d'anhydride maléique. Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré, le composé A est l'APTES et le composé C est la DHA. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, compound A is an alkoxysilane with primary amine capture function and compound C is a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, compound A is APTES and compound C is selected from the group consisting of DHA, cinnamaldehyde (or cinammaldehyde), mexoryl SX (INCI: terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid acid), zinc pyrithione, vitamin C, citronellal, citral, nonanal, hydroxycitronellal and a maleic anhydride polymer. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound A is the APTES and the compound C is the DHA.
Le procédé selon l'invention comprend l'application sur la peau d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A susceptible de condenser, en particulier quand il est soumis à une augmentation de concentration obtenue par évaporation du milieu le contenant. Le composé ou ensemble de composés A comporte donc des fonctions réactives pour permettre cette condensation, comme cela a été mentionné ci-dessus. The process according to the invention comprises the application on the skin of a compound or set of compounds A which can condense, in particular when it is subjected to an increase in concentration obtained by evaporation of the medium containing it. The compound or set of compounds A therefore has reactive functions to allow this condensation, as mentioned above.
De cette condensation résulte la formation d'un dépôt sur et/ou dans la peau. Ce dépôt n'est pas obligatoirement continu mais peut être constitué d'une multitude de domaines connexes. Le composé A est choisi pour que le matériau issu de sa condensation présente des fonctions réactives dites « fonctions de capture » libres. This condensation results in the formation of a deposit on and / or in the skin. This deposit is not necessarily continuous but may consist of a multitude of related fields. The compound A is chosen so that the material resulting from its condensation has reactive functions called "free capture functions".
Un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique est également appliqué sur la peau.
Le composé C peut réagir avec le produit de la condensation de A, par l'intermédiaire de la fonction de capture FA libre après condensation, et d'une fonction Fc présente sur le composé C. A compound C of cosmetic interest is also applied to the skin. Compound C can react with the product of the condensation of A, via the free capture function F A after condensation, and a function Fc present on the compound C.
Le procédé selon l'invention comprend l'application séquentielle ou concomitante du composé A (ou de l'ensemble de composés A) et du composé C. The method according to the invention comprises the sequential or concomitant application of compound A (or set of compounds A) and compound C.
Dans un mode réalisation de l'invention, on applique dans un premier temps le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) sur une zone de la peau. Ensuite, après un temps plus ou moins long qui peut être compris entre 1 minute et 5 heures, de préférence de 1 minute à 1 heure, de manière encore plus préférée entre 2 et 10 minutes le composé C est appliqué sur la même zone de la peau. Dans le cadre de ce mode de réalisation, la condensation du composé A (ou de l'ensemble de composés A) peut avoir eu lieu spontanément, ou avoir été déclenchée, avant l'application du composé C. Le composé C peut alors réagir sur le condensât par le biais de la ou des fonctions de capture libres sur le condensât. Le composé C peut aussi réagir avec une ou plusieurs fonctions réactives différentes des fonctions de capture, en particulier avec des fonctions réactives qui auraient pu participer à la réaction de A avec lui-même mais n'ayant pas réagi. In one embodiment of the invention, the compound A (or the set of compounds A) is first applied to an area of the skin. Then, after a longer or shorter time which can be between 1 minute and 5 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 1 hour, even more preferably between 2 and 10 minutes, the compound C is applied to the same area of the skin. In the context of this embodiment, the condensation of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) may have occurred spontaneously, or have been triggered, before the application of the compound C. The compound C can then react on the condensate through the free capture function (s) on the condensate. Compound C can also react with one or more reactive functions different from the capture functions, in particular with reactive functions that could have participated in the reaction of A with itself but unreacted.
Ainsi, dans le cas particulier où le composé A est un organosilane portant une fonction de capture, il est entendu que le composé C peut réagir sur la fonction de capture ainsi que sur des silanols non condensés du condensât. Une réaction chimique intervient alors, avec formation de liaisons covalentes entre C et une ou plusieurs fonctions réactives, plus particulièrement avec les fonctions de capture FA présentes sur le condensât du composé A ou de l'ensemble de composés A. Ceci peut avoir pour effet de modifier le matériau sur et/ou dans la peau. Cette réaction peut notamment rendre le condensât insoluble et ainsi augmenter encore sa rémanence sur et/ou dans la peau (tenue à l'eau, à la sueur, au sébum,..) tout en maintenant, voire en renforçant, la propriété cosmétique conférée par le composé C.
L'invention peut être mise en œuvre avec l'utilisation de procédés accélérant ou inhibant les réactions mises en oeuvre dans l'invention et/ou la diffusion des molécules dans la peau, par exemple la chaleur ou le froid, les microondes, des agents de pH ou des catalyseurs. II est également possible d'agir depuis la surface de la peau sur la réaction entre le composé C et le composé ou ensemble de composé A, par exemple pour la contrôler ou la rendre plus rapide. Thus, in the particular case where the compound A is an organosilane carrying a capture function, it is understood that the compound C can react on the capture function as well as on uncondensed silanols of the condensate. A chemical reaction then occurs, with the formation of covalent bonds between C and one or more reactive functions, more particularly with the capture functions F A present on the condensate of compound A or of the set of compounds A. This may have the effect to modify the material on and / or in the skin. This reaction can in particular make the condensate insoluble and thus further increase its persistence on and / or in the skin (resistance to water, sweat, sebum, etc.) while maintaining, or even reinforcing, the cosmetic property conferred by the compound C. The invention can be implemented with the use of processes accelerating or inhibiting the reactions used in the invention and / or the diffusion of the molecules in the skin, for example heat or cold, microwaves, agents pH or catalysts. It is also possible to act from the surface of the skin on the reaction between compound C and the compound or set of compound A, for example to control or make it faster.
Selon une variante du procédé selon l'invention, on applique d'abord le composé A puis on attend que la réaction de condensation de A ait lieu. Celle-ci peut être rapide ou lente, impliquer ou non le séchage de la peau, impliquer ou non une activation avec, par exemple, utilisation d'une source de chaleur ou une autre source d'énergie. A ce stade, on peut appliquer le composé C, ou rincer puis appliquer le composé C. On peut laisser le composé C réagir avec le matériau issu de la condensation de A. On peut aussi activer la réaction entre A et C. Après réaction entre A et C, on rince ou non. According to a variant of the process according to the invention, the compound A is first applied and then the condensation reaction of A is expected to take place. This may be fast or slow, whether or not to involve drying the skin, whether or not to involve activation with, for example, use of a heat source or other energy source. At this stage, it is possible to apply the compound C, or to rinse and then to apply the compound C. The compound C can be allowed to react with the material resulting from the condensation of A. It is also possible to activate the reaction between A and C. After reaction between A and C, rinse or not.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, on applique le composé A sous une forme ou dans des conditions ne permettant pas la réaction de condensation. On attend que le composé A pénètre. Puis on déclenche la réaction, soit en ajoutant un adjuvant (par exemple un agent de pH) soit en changeant les conditions, par exemple en changeant la température (notamment en l'augmentant). Une fois la condensation commencée, et éventuellement après une étape de rinçage, on applique le composé C, comme précédemment. According to a particular embodiment, the compound A is applied in a form or under conditions that do not allow the condensation reaction. Compound A is expected to enter. Then the reaction is triggered, either by adding an adjuvant (for example a pH agent) or by changing the conditions, for example by changing the temperature (in particular by increasing it). Once condensation has begun, and possibly after a rinsing step, compound C is applied as before.
Dans une autre variante, on applique le composé A ou l'ensemble de composés, puis on applique le composé C dans des conditions ou la réaction de capture ne peuvent avoir lieu. La condensation a lieu. Une fois la condensation commencée, on déclenche la réaction du composé C sur le condensât de A. In another variant, the compound A or the set of compounds is applied, and then the compound C is applied under conditions where the capture reaction can not take place. The condensation takes place. Once condensation has begun, the reaction of compound C on the condensate of A.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, les composés A et C sont mélangés avant application sur la peau (mélange extemporané). Ce mélange peut se faire avant application ou pendant l'application sur la peau (mélange directement sur la zone de la peau à traiter). In a particular embodiment, the compounds A and C are mixed before application to the skin (extemporaneous mixture). This mixture can be done before application or during application on the skin (mixture directly on the area of the skin to be treated).
Le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) et le composé C peuvent donc être appliqués de façon concomitante. Dans ce cas,
- les composés A et C sont choisis pour que la présence de C n'empêche pas la condensation de A ; ou Compound A (or the set of compounds A) and compound C can therefore be applied concomitantly. In that case, the compounds A and C are chosen so that the presence of C does not prevent the condensation of A; or
- les composés A et C et/ou les conditions de mise en œuvre sont choisis de façon à ce que la condensation de A soit plus rapide que la réaction de C ; ou the compounds A and C and / or the conditions of implementation are chosen so that the condensation of A is faster than the reaction of C; or
- le composé A peut condenser alors que le composé C ne peut réagir. Après un certain temps, la réaction de C est déclenchée par une action ultérieure ou de façon automatique, par exemple par changement de pH, de température ou par application d'une source lumineuse. Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, on applique le résultat de la condensation de A sur la peau. Par exemple, on peut appliquer un film de poly APTES. On applique ensuite le composé C. the compound A can condense whereas the compound C can not react. After a certain time, the reaction of C is triggered by a subsequent action or automatically, for example by changing pH, temperature or by applying a light source. In a particular embodiment, the result of the condensation of A on the skin is applied. For example, a film of poly APTES can be applied. Compound C is then applied.
Dans un autre mode de réalisation, on applique d'abord le composé C puis on applique le composé A. In another embodiment, compound C is first applied and then compound A is applied.
Dans un mode particulier de l'invention, on peut aussi injecter le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) et/ou le composé C dans la peau. Par exemple, on peut injecter le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A), puis on applique le composé C, ou on applique le composé A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) puis on injecte le composé C, ou on injecte les composés A (ou l'ensemble de composés A) et C. In a particular embodiment of the invention, it is also possible to inject the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and / or the compound C into the skin. For example, compound A (or set of compounds A) can be injected, then compound C is applied, or compound A (or combination of compounds A) is applied and then compound C is injected, or injects the compounds A (or the set of compounds A) and C.
Dans cette configuration, l'invention sert par exemple à créer un nouveau mode de tatouage. Le composé A est injecté. Puis, on peut appliquer un composé C amené, par réaction avec la fonction de capture, à donner un dessin décoratif. In this configuration, the invention serves for example to create a new tattoo mode. Compound A is injected. Then, a compound C can be applied, by reaction with the capture function, to give a decorative pattern.
Par la suite, si le dessin s'efface ou est effacé, comme la couche de capture reste piégée sur et/ou dans la peau, il est possible de réitérer l'opération pour reproduire le même dessin décoratif, ou pour créer un nouveau dessin. Subsequently, if the drawing is erased or erased, as the capture layer remains trapped on and / or in the skin, it is possible to repeat the operation to reproduce the same decorative pattern, or to create a new pattern .
D'une manière générale, on peut accélérer les réactions par l'emploi de catalyseurs adaptés, par exemple des agents de pH, des sels, des métaux et/ou des enzymes.
La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation conjointe d'une composition cosmétique contenant une quantité efficace d'un composé A capable de condenser in situ sur la peau et d'une composition cosmétique contenant une quantité efficace d'un composé C qui va réagir avec une ou plusieurs fonctions réactives libres du matériau issu de la condensation du composé A. Les compositions se présentent par exemple sous la forme d'un sérum, d'une lotion, d'une émulsion directe (H/E) inverse (E/H) ou multiple (H/E/H et E/H/E), d'un stick ou d'un produit compact. Elles peuvent utiliser des systèmes de compartimentation (deux solvants incompatibles, encapsulation). Ces systèmes permettent par exemple de placer dans un même produit le composé A, ou l'ensemble de composés A, et le composé C en limitant leur interaction. In general, reactions can be accelerated by the use of suitable catalysts, for example pH agents, salts, metals and / or enzymes. The subject of the present invention is also the joint use of a cosmetic composition containing an effective amount of a compound A capable of condensing in situ on the skin and of a cosmetic composition containing an effective amount of a compound C which will react with one or more free reactive functions of the material resulting from the condensation of compound A. The compositions are, for example, in the form of a serum, a lotion, a direct (O / W) emulsion (E / H) or multiple (H / E / H and E / H / E), a stick or a compact product. They can use compartmentalization systems (two incompatible solvents, encapsulation). These systems make it possible, for example, to place in the same product compound A, or the set of compounds A, and compound C by limiting their interaction.
Formes galéniques Galenic forms
Le composé A, ou l'ensemble de composé A, et le composé C peuvent être formulés dans des compositions contenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. Ces compositions peuvent se présenter selon toutes les formes galéniques classiquement utilisées dans l'application envisagée. Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir les composants et éventuels ingrédients et/ou actifs complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses du composé A (ou de l'ensemble de composés A) et du composé C, ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. Compound A, or the set of Compound A, and Compound C may be formulated in compositions containing a physiologically acceptable medium. These compositions may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used in the intended application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the components and optional additional ingredients and / or active agents, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compound A (or the set of compounds A) and the Compound C, are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition contemplated.
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention sont des compositions aqueuses. Formulation pour la coloration, en particulier pour un effet autobronzant In a particular embodiment, the compositions used according to the invention are aqueous compositions. Formulation for coloring, especially for a self-tanning effect
Les compositions contenant le composé C mises en oeuvre pour la coloration de la peau, en particulier pour obtenir un effet autobronzant, peuvent être préparées selon les techniques bien connues de l'homme de l'art, en particulier celles destinées à la préparation d'émulsions de type huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile. The compositions containing compound C used for dyeing the skin, in particular to obtain a self-tanning effect, may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
Cette composition peut se présenter en particulier sous forme d'émulsion, simple ou complexe (H/E, E/H, H/E/H ou E/H/E) telle qu'une crème, un lait ou sous la forme d'un gel ou d'un gel crème, sous la forme d'une lotion, de poudre, de bâtonnet solide et
éventuellement être conditionnée en aérosol et se présenter sous forme de mousse ou de spray. This composition may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or in the form of a gel or a cream gel, in the form of a lotion, powder, solid stick and possibly be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
De préférence, les compositions selon l'invention se présentent sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
Lorsqu'il s'agit d'une émulsion, la phase aqueuse de celle-ci peut comprendre une dispersion vésiculaire non ionique préparée selon les procédés connus (Bangham, Standish and Watkins J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 et FR 2 416 008). In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to the known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965), FR). 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
Dans un mode particulier de réalisation, le composé C est la DHA. Cette dernière peut être utilisée sous forme libre et/ou encapsulée par exemple dans des vésicules lipidiques telle que des liposomes, notamment décrits dans la demande WO 97/25970. Les compositions autobronzantes conformes à l'invention peuvent se présenter sous forme de crèmes, de laits, de gels, de gel-crèmes, d'émulsions huile-dans-eau, de dispersions vésiculaires, de lotions fluides, en particulier de lotions fluides vaporisables ou tout autre forme généralement utilisée en cosmétique, en particulier celles convenant habituellement aux compositions cosmétiques autobronzantes. In a particular embodiment, the compound C is DHA. The latter may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970. The self-tanning compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, milks, gels, gel-creams, oil-in-water emulsions, vesicular dispersions, fluid lotions, in particular vaporizable fluid lotions. or any other form generally used in cosmetics, in particular those that are usually suitable for self-tanning cosmetic compositions.
Les compositions conformes à la présente invention peuvent comprendre en outre des adjuvants cosmétiques classiques notamment choisis parmi les corps gras, les solvants organiques, les épaississants ioniques ou non ioniques, les adoucissants, les antioxydants, les agents anti radicaux libres, les opacifiants, les stabilisants, les émollients, les silicones, les oc- hydroxyacides, les agents anti-mousse, les agents hydratants, les vitamines, les agents répulsifs contre les insectes, les antagonistes de substance P, les anti-inflammatoires, les parfums, les conservateurs, les tensioactifs, les charges, les polymères , les propulseurs, les agents alcanisants ou acidifiants, et des colorants additionnels (en plus du composé C mis en oeuvre selon l'invention), ou tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique et/ou dermatologique, en particulier pour la fabrication de compositions autobronzantes sous forme d'émulsions. Ces adjuvants cosmétiques peuvent indifféremment être incorporés dans la composition contenant A, dans la composition contenant le composé C, ou dans les deux compositions.
Les corps gras peuvent être constitués par une huile ou une cire ou leurs mélanges. Par « huile », on entend un composé liquide à température ambiante. Par « cire », on entend un composé solide ou substantiellement solide à température ambiante, et dont le point de fusion est généralement supérieur à 35°C. The compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers , emollients, silicones, α-hydroxyacids, anti-foam agents, moisturizers, vitamins, insect repellents, substance P antagonists, anti-inflammatories, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkanizing or acidifying agents, and additional dyes (in addition to compound C used according to the invention), or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field , in particular for the manufacture of self-tanning compositions in the form of emulsions. These cosmetic adjuvants may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions. The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof. By "oil" is meant a liquid compound at room temperature. By "wax" is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
Comme huiles, on peut citer les huiles minérales (paraffine) ; végétales (huile d'amande douce, de macadamia, de pépin de cassis, de jojoba) ; synthétiques comme le perhydrosqualène, les alcools, les acides ou les esters gras (comme le benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15 vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « Finsolv TN » par la société Fmetex, le palmitate d'octyle, le lanolate d'isopropyle, les triglycérides dont ceux des acides caprique/caprylique, les esters et les éthers gras oxyéthylénés ou oxypropylénés ; siliconées (cyclométhicone, polydiméthyl-siloxanes ou PDMS) ou fluorées ; les polyalkylènes et leurs mélanges. Comme composés cireux, on peut citer la paraffine, la cire de carnauba, la cire d'abeille, l'huile de ricin hydrogénée. As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, acids or fatty esters (such as the benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols sold under the trade name Finsolv TN by the company Fmetex, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, silicone (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated esters and fatty ethers, and polyalkylenes and mixtures thereof. carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
Parmi les solvants organiques, on peut citer les alcools et polyols inférieurs ayant au plus 8 atomes de carbone. Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols having at most 8 carbon atoms.
Les épaississants peuvent être choisis notamment parmi les acides polyacryliques réticulés, les gommes de guar et celluloses modifiées ou non telles que la gomme de guar hydroxypropylée, la méthylhydroxyéthylcellulose et l'hydroxypropylméthylcellulose. On peut encore utiliser des colorants additionnels qui permettent de modifier la couleur produite par l'agent autobronzant. The thickeners may be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Additional dyes can be used to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.
Ces colorants additionnels peuvent être choisis parmi les colorants directs synthétiques ou naturels. These additional dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
Ces colorants additionnels peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les colorants rouges ou oranges du type fluorane tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet FR2840806. On peut citer par exemple les colorants suivants : These additional dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type, such as those described in the patent application FR2840806. For example, the following dyes may be mentioned:
- le tetrabromofluoroscéine ou éosine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45380 ou Red 21
- la phloxine B connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45410 ou Red 27 tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21 Phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 or Red 27
- la diiodofluorescéine connue sous le nom CTFA CI 45425 ou Orange 10 ; diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA CI 45425 or Orange 10;
- la dibromofluorescéine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45370 ou Orange 5. dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
- le sel de sodium de la tetrabromofluoroscéine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45380 (Na sait) ou Red 22 - the sodium salt of tetrabromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 (Na knows) or Red 22
- le sel de sodium de la phloxine B connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45410 (Na sait) ou Red 28 the sodium salt of phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 (Na knows) or Red 28
- le sel de sodium de la diiodofluorescéine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45425 (Na sait) ou Orange 11 ; the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
- l'érythrosine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45430 ou Acid Red 51. erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
- la phloxine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45405 ou Acid Red 98. Phloxine known under the name CTFA: CI 45405 or Acid Red 98.
Ces colorants additionnels peuvent être également choisis parmi les antraquinones, le caramel, le carmin, le noir de charbon, les bleus azulènes, le methoxalène, le trioxalène, le guajazulène, le chamuzulène, le rose de bengale, la cosine 10B, la cyanosine, la daphinine. These additional dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin.
Ces colorants additionnels peuvent être également choisis parmi les dérivés indoliques comme les monohydroxyindoles tels que décrits dans le brevet FR2651126 ( ie : 4-, 5-, 6- ou 7-hydroxyindole) ou les di-hydroxyindoles tels que décrits dans le brevet EP-B- 0425324 (ie : 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-méthyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-méthyl 5,6- dihydroxyindole, 2,3-diméthyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole) ; These additional dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-patent. B-0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole);
Les agents de coloration additionnels peuvent également être des pigments d'oxyde de fer dont la taille moyenne des particules élémentaires est inférieure à lOOnm tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP 966 953. The additional coloring agents may also be iron oxide pigments with an average particle size of less than 100 nm such as those described in patent application EP 966 953.
Compositions contenant un agent photoprotecteur (ou filtre), composition de soin Compositions containing a photoprotective agent (or filter), care composition
Les compositions comprenant un composé C mis en oeuvre pour la photoprotection ou le soin de la peau peuvent être préparées selon les techniques bien connues de l'homme de l'art. Il est à noter que les formes galéniques et actifs décrits ci-dessous peuvent être utilisés pour la formulation du composé A, quelle que soit l'application cosmétique recherchée.
Les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention peuvent comprendre des adjuvants cosmétiques classiques notamment choisis parmi les corps gras, les solvants organiques, les épaississants ioniques ou non ioniques, hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les adoucissants, les humectants, les opacifiants, les stabilisants, les émollients, les silicones, les agents anti- mousse, les parfums, les conservateurs, les tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, non-ioniques, zwitterioniques ou amphotères, des actifs, les charges, les polymères, les propulseurs, les agents alcalinisants ou acidifiants ou tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique et/ou dermatologique. Ces adjuvants cosmétiques peuvent indifféremment être incorporés dans la composition contenant A, dans la composition contenant le composé C, ou dans les deux compositions. Compositions comprising a compound C used for photoprotection or skin care may be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that the galenic and active forms described below can be used for the formulation of compound A, whatever the cosmetic application sought. The compositions used according to the invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, silicone, antifoaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any another ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. These cosmetic adjuvants may be incorporated into the composition containing A, in the composition containing compound C, or in both compositions.
Les corps gras peuvent être constitués par une huile ou une cire autre que les cires apolaires telles que définies précédemment ou leurs mélanges. Par huile, on entend un composé liquide à température ambiante. Par cire, on entend un composé solide ou substantiellement solide à température ambiante, et dont le point de fusion est généralement supérieur à 35°C. The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax other than the apolar waxes as defined above or mixtures thereof. By oil is meant a liquid compound at room temperature. By wax is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.
Comme huiles, on peut citer les huiles minérales (paraffine); végétales (huile d'amande douce, de macadamia, de pépin de cassis, de jojoba) ; synthétiques comme le perhydrosqualène, les alcools, les amides grasses (comme l'isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate vendu sous la dénomination d' « Eldew SL-205 » par la société Ajinomoto), les acides ou les esters gras comme le benzoate d'alcools en C12-Ci5 vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « Finsolv TN » ou « Witconol TN » par la société WITCO, le Benzoate de 2- éthylphenyle comme le produit commercial vendu sous le nom X-TEND 226 ® par la société ISP, le palmitate d'octyle, le lanolate d'isopropyle, les triglycérides dont ceux des acides caprique/caprylique, le dicaprylyl carbonate vendu sous la dénomination « Cetiol CC » par la société Cognis), les esters et éthers gras oxyéthylénés ou oxypropylénés; les huiles siliconées (cyclométhicone, polydiméthysiloxanes ou PDMS) ou fluorées, les polyalkylènes, les trimellitates de trialkyle comme le trimellitate de tridécyle. Comme composés cireux, on peut citer la cire de carnauba, la cire d'abeille, l'huile de ricin hydrogénée, les cires de polyéthylène et les cires de polyméthylène comme celle vendue sous la dénomination Cirebelle 303 par la société SASOL.
Parmi les solvants organiques, on peut citer les alcools et polyols inférieurs. Ces derniers peuvent être choisis parmi les glycols et les éthers de glycol comme l'éthylène glycol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol ou le diéthylène glycol. Comme épaississants hydrophiles, on peut citer les polymères carboxyvinyliques tels que les Carbopols (Carbomers) et les Pemulen (Copolymère acrylate/Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate) ; les polyacrylamides comme par exemple les copolymères réticulés vendus sous les noms Sepigel 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : polyacrylamide/Cn-n isoparaffin/Laureth 7) ou Simulgel 600 (nom C.T.F.A. : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) par la société Seppic ; les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société Hoechst sous la dénomination commerciale « Hostacerin AMPS » (nom CTFA : ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate ou le SIMULGEL 800 commercialisé par la société SEPPIC (nom CTFA : sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate) ; les copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique et d'hydroxyethyl acrylate comme le SIMULGEL NS et le SEPINOV EMT 10 commercialisés par la société SEPPIC ; les dérivés cellulosiques tels que l'hydroxyéthylcellulose ; les polysaccharides et notamment les gommes telles que la gomme de Xanthane ; les dérivés siliconés hydrosolubles ou hydrodispersibles comme les siliconés acryliques, les siliconés polyéthers et les siliconés cationiques et leurs mélanges. As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin); vegetable (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil); synthetic such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by the company Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as benzoate C alcohols 12 -Ci5 sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company WITCO, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by the company ISP, the palmitate of octyl, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated esters and fatty ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate. As waxy compounds, mention may be made of carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL. Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol. As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Cn-n isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, silicone polyethers and silicones cationic compounds and mixtures thereof.
Comme épaississants lipophiles, on peut citer les polymères synthétiques tels que les poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates vendu sous la dénomination « INTELIMER IPA 13-1 » et « INTELIMER IPA 13-6 » par la société Landec ou encore les argiles modifiées telles que l'hectorite et ses dérivés, comme les produits commercialisés sous les noms de Bentone. Mention may be made, as lipophilic thickeners, of synthetic polymers such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6" by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels composés complémentaires cités ci-dessus et/ou leurs quantités de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement aux compositions mises en oeuvre conformément à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées.
Les compositions mises en oeuvre pour la photoprotection ou le soin de la peau selon l'invention, et les compositions contenant le composé A ou l'ensemble de composés A, peuvent être préparées selon les techniques bien connues de l'homme de l'art. Elles peuvent se présenter en particulier sous forme d'émulsion, simple ou complexe (H/E, E/H, H/E/H ou E/H/E) telle qu'une crème, un lait ou d'un gel crème ; sous la forme d'un gel aqueux ; sous la forme d'une lotion. Elles peuvent éventuellement être conditionnées en aérosol et se présenter sous forme de mousse ou de spray. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions used according to the invention are not , or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. The compositions used for the photoprotection or care of the skin according to the invention, and the compositions containing the compound A or the set of compounds A, may be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. . They may be in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W) such as cream, milk or cream gel ; in the form of an aqueous gel; in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
De préférence, les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention se présentent sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans huile. Preferably, the compositions used according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
Les procédés d'émulsifïcation pouvant être utilisés sont de type pâle ou hélice, rotor-stator et HHP. II est également possible, par HHP (entre 50 et 800b), d'obtenir des dispersions stables avec des tailles de gouttes pouvant descendre jusqu'à 100 nm. The emulsification methods that can be used are of the pale type or helix, rotor-stator and HHP type. It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800b), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes of up to 100 nm.
Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E). The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
Comme tensioactifs émulsionnants utilisables pour la préparation des émulsions E/H, on peut citer par exemple les alkyl esters ou éthers de sorbitane, de glycérol ou de sucres ; les tensioactifs siliconés comme les diméthicone copolyols tels que le mélange de cyclométhicone et de diméthicone copolyol, vendu sous la dénomination « DC 5225 C » par la société Dow Corning, et les alkyl-dimethicone copolyols tels que le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow Corning ; le Cetyl diméthicone copolyol tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination Abil EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt et le mélange de cétyl diméthicone copolyol, d'isostéarate de polyglycérole (4 moles) et de laurate d'hexyle vendu sous la dénomination ABIL WE 09 par la société Goldschmidt. On peut y ajouter aussi un ou plusieurs co- émulsionnants, qui, de manière avantageuse, peuvent être choisis dans le groupe comprenant les esters alkylés de polyol.
Comme esters alkylés de polyol, on peut citer notamment les esters de polyéthylèneglycol comme le PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stéarate tel que le produit commercialisé sous le nom Arlacel PI 35 par la socité ICI. As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid "by Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of alkylated polyol esters. Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
Comme esters de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan, on peut citer par exemple l'isostéarate de polyglycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Isolan GI 34 par la société Goldschmidt ; l'isostéarate de sorbitan, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 987 par la société ICI ; l'isostéarate de sorbitan et le glycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 986 par la société ICI, et leurs mélanges. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
Pour les émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants, les émulsionnants non ioniques tels que les esters d'acides gras et de glycérol oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés) ; les esters d'acides gras et de sorbitan oxyalkylénés ; les esters d'acides gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) comme le mélange PEG-100 Stéarate/ Glyceryl Stéarate commercialisé par exemple par la société ICI sous la dénomination Arlacel 165 ; les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de sucrose ; les éthers d'alcool gras et de sucre, notamment les alkylpolyglucosides (APG) tels que le décylglucoside et le laurylglucoside commercialisés par exemple par la société Henkel sous les dénominations respectives Plantaren 2000 et Plantaren 1200, le cétostéarylglucoside éventuellement en mélange avec l'alcool cétostéarylique, commercialisé par exemple sous la dénomination Montanov 68 par la société Seppic, sous la dénomination Tegocare CG90 par la société Goldschmidt et sous la dénomination Emulgade KE3302 par la société Henkel, ainsi que l'arachidyl glucoside, par exemple sous la forme du mélange d'alcools arachidique et béhénique et d'arachidylglucoside commercialisé sous la dénomination Montanov 202 par la société Seppic. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, le mélange de l'alkylpolyglucoside tel que défini ci-dessus avec l'alcool gras correspondant peut être sous forme d'une composition auto-émulsionnante, comme décrit par exemple dans le document WO-A-92/06778.
Lorsqu'il s'agit d'une émulsion, la phase aqueuse de celle-ci peut comprendre une dispersion vésiculaire non ionique préparée selon des procédés connus (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 et FR 2 416 008). Les compositions cosmétiques mises en oeuvre selon l'invention peuvent par exemple être utilisées comme produit de soin et/ou de protection solaire pour le visage et/ou le corps de consistance liquide à semi-liquide, telles que des laits, des crèmes plus ou moins onctueuses, gel-crèmes, des pâtes. Elles peuvent éventuellement être conditionnées en aérosol et se présenter sous forme de mousse ou de spray. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol; , marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778. In the case of an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol Biol 13, 238 (1965)). FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008). The cosmetic compositions used according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams, or more. less creamy, gel-creams, pasta. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
Les compositions selon l'invention sous forme de lotions fluides vaponsables conformes à l'invention sont appliquées sur la peau ou le cuir chevelu sous forme de fines particules au moyen de dispositifs de pressurisation. Les dispositifs conformes à l'invention sont bien connus de l'homme de l'art et comprennent les pompes non-aérosols ou "atomiseurs", les récipients aérosols comprenant un propulseur ainsi que les pompes aérosols utilisant l'air comprimé comme propulseur. Ces derniers sont décrits dans les brevets US 4,077,441 et US 4,850,517 (faisant partie intégrante du contenu de la description). The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the scalp in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).
Les compositions conditionnées en aérosol conformes à l'invention contiennent en général des agents propulseurs conventionnels tels que par exemple les composés hydrofluorés le dichlorodifluorométhane, le difluoroéthane, le diméthyléther, l'isobutane, le n-butane, le propane, le trichlorofluorométhane. Ils sont présents de préférence dans des quantités allant de 15 à 50% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre en plus des actifs additionnels cosmétiques et dermatologiques. The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane. They are present preferably in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions used according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
Parmi les actifs, on peut citer : Among the assets, we can mention:
- les vitamines (A, C, E, K, PP...) et leurs dérivés ou précurseurs, seuls ou en mélanges, - les agents anti-glycation ; vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP) and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures, anti-glycation agents;
- les agents apaisants, - soothing agents,
- les inhibiteurs de NO-synthase ; NO-synthase inhibitors;
- les agents stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation ;
- les agents stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes ; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts;
- les agents stimulant la prolifération des kératinocytes ; agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes;
- les agents myorelaxants; - muscle relaxants;
- les agents tenseurs, tensors,
- les agents matifiants, - mattifying agents,
- les agents kératolytiques, the keratolytic agents,
- les agents desquamants ; - desquamating agents;
- les agents hydratants comme par exemple les polyols tels que la glycérine, le butylène glycol, propylène glycol. - Moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol.
- les agents anti- inflammatoires ; anti-inflammatory agents;
- les agents agissant sur le métabolisme énergétique des cellules, agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells,
- les agents répulsifs contre les insectes - insect repellents
- les antagonistes de substances P ou de C GP. antagonists of substances P or C GP.
- les agents anti-chute et/ou repousse des cheveux - anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents
- les agents anti-rides. - anti-wrinkle agents.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels composés complémentaires cités ci-dessus et/ou leurs quantités de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement aux compositions conformes à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.
L'homme du métier choisira le ou lesdits actifs en fonction de l'effet recherché sur la peau. Those skilled in the art will choose the active agent (s) depending on the desired effect on the skin.
La composition pourra comprendre en outre au moins un ingrédient tel que des charges à effet flouteur ou des agents favorisant la coloration naturelle de la peau, destiné à compléter l'effet biologique de ces actifs ou apporter un effet anti-âge immédiat visuel. The composition may also comprise at least one ingredient such as blooming fillers or agents promoting the natural coloration of the skin, intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or provide an immediate visual anti-aging effect.
Pour le soin et/ou le maquillage des peaux grasses, l'homme du métier choisira de préférence au moins un actif choisi parmi les agents desquamants, agents sébo -régulateurs ou anti-séborrhéiques, les agents astringents. For the care and / or makeup of oily skin, those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent selected from desquamating agents, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents.
Les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention pourront comprendre en outre au moins un ingrédient additionnel destiné à compléter l'effet biologique de ces actifs ou apporter un effet immédiat visuel ; on peut citer notamment les agents matifiants, les charges à effet
flouteur, les agents fluorescents, les agents favorisant la coloration naturellement rosée de la peau et les charges abrasives ou exfoliantes. The compositions used according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional ingredient intended to complete the biological effect of these active ingredients or to provide an immediate visual effect; mention may in particular be made of mattifying agents, effect fillers bloomer, fluorescers, agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and abrasive or exfoliating fillers.
Pour complémenter et/ou optimiser les effets conférés par les actifs cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques cités ci-dessus sur les matières kératiniques, il peut être avantageux d'intégrer dans les compositions de l'invention d'autres ingrédients additionnels. To complement and / or optimize the effects conferred by the cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents mentioned above on keratin materials, it may be advantageous to incorporate other additional ingredients in the compositions of the invention.
En particulier, ces ingrédients addditionnels pourront conférer un effet immédiat visuel qui sera relayé par l'effet biologique des actifs cités ci-dessus. Ils pourront également, via une action mécanique (ex : charges abrasvies), amplifier l'effet des actifs biologiques cités ci- dessus. In particular, these additional ingredients may confer an immediate visual effect that will be relayed by the biological effect of the assets mentioned above. They can also, through a mechanical action (ex: abrasvies), amplify the effect of the biological assets mentioned above.
Agents matifiants Par "agent matifiant", on entend des agents destinés à rendre la peau visiblement plus mate, moins brillante. Matifying Agents "Matifying agent" means agents intended to make the skin visibly duller and less glossy.
L'effet matifiant de l'agent et/ou de la composition le contenant peut notamment être évalué à l'aide d'un gonioréflectomètre, en mesurant le rapport R entre la réflexion spéculaire et la réflexion diffuse. Une valeur de R inférieure ou égale à 2 traduit généralement un effet matifiant. The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.
L'agent matifiant pourra notamment être choisi parmi un amidon de riz ou un amidon de maïs nom INCI : ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH comme en particulier le produit vendu sous le nom commercial « FARMAL CS 3650 PLUS 036500 » par National Starch, la kaolinite, le talc, un extrait de graines de potiron, des microbilles de cellulose, des fibres végétales, des fibres synthétiques, en particulier de polyamides, des microsphères de copolymères acryliques expansées, des poudres de polyamides, les poudres de silice, les poudres de polytétrafluoroéthylène, les poudres de résine de silicone, les poudres de polymères acryliques, les poudres de cire, les poudres de polyéthylène, les poudres d'organopolysiloxane réticulé élastomère enrobées de résine de silicone, les poudres composites de talc/dioxyde de titane/alumine/silice, les poudres de silicates mixtes amorphes, les particules de silicate et notamment de silicate mixte, et leurs mélanges.
Comme exemples d'agents matifiants, on peut citer notamment : The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH as in particular the product sold under the trade name "FARMAL CS 3650 PLUS 036500" by National Starch, kaolinite talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders , silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders mixed amorphous silicate powders, silicate particles, and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof. Examples of mattifying agents that may be mentioned include:
- l'amidon de riz ou de maïs, en particulier un aluminium starch octenyl succinate commercialisé sous la dénomination Dry Flo® par la société National Starch, starch from rice or maize, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch,
- la kaolinite ; kaolinite;
- les silices ; - silicas;
- le talc ; - talc;
- un extrait de graines de potiron tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination Curbilene® par la société Indena ; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene® by the company Indena;
- des microbilles de cellulose telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 1 562 562 ; cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562;
- des fibres, telles que des fibres de soie, de coton, de laine, de lin, de cellulose extraites notamment du bois, des légumes ou des algues, de polyamide (Nylon®), de cellulose modifiée, de poly-p-phénylène téréphtamide, en acrylique, de polyoléfine, de verre, de silice, d'aramide, de carbone, de Téflon®, de collagène insoluble, de polyesters, de polychlorure de vinyle ou de vinylidène, d'alcool polyvinylique, de polyacrylonitrile, de chitosane, de polyuréthane, de polyéthylène phtalate, des fibres formées d'un mélange de polymères, les fibres synthétiques résorbables, et leurs mélanges décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 1 151 742 ; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
- des microsphères de copolymères acryliques expansées telles que celles commercialisées par la société EXPANCEL sous les dénominations EXPANCEL 551®, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by Expancel under the names Expancel 551®,
- des charges à effet optique telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet FR 2 869 796, en particulier : optical effect charges as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular:
- les poudres de polyamides (Nylon®), comme par exemple les particules de Nylon 12 du type Orgasol d'Arkema de taille moyenne 10 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1 ,54, - les poudres de silice, comme par exemple les Silica beads SB 150 de Miyoshi de taille moyenne 5 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,45, polyamide powders (Nylon®), such as, for example, Arkema's Orgasol type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1, 54; silica powders, for example Silica powders; SB 150 Miyoshi beads, 5 microns in average size and refractive index 1.45,
- les poudres de polytétrafluoroéthylène, comme les PTFE ceridust 9205F de Clariant de taille moyenne 8 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,36, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as Clariant ceridust 9205F PTFE with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.36,
- les poudres de résine de silicone comme les Silicon resin Tospearl 145A de GE Silicone de taille moyenne 4,5 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,41, silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145A having a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41,
- les poudres de copolymères acryliques, notamment de poly(méth)acrylate de méthyle, comme les particules PMMA Jurymer MBI de Nihon Junyoki de taille moyenne 8 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,49, ou les particules Micropearl M100® et F 80 ED® de la société Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku,
- les poudres de cire comme les particules Paraffïn wax microease 1 14S de micropowders de taille moyenne 7 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,54, powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or Micropearl M100® and F80 particles. ED® from the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, wax powders such as paraffin wax microease particles 1 14S of micropowders with a mean size of 7 microns and a refractive index of 1.54,
- les poudres de polyéthylène, notamment comprenant au moins un copolymère éthylène/acide acrylique, et en particulier constituées de copolymères éthylène/acide acrylique comme les particules Flobeads EA 209 de Sumitomo (de taille moyenne 10 microns et d'indice de réfraction 1,48), polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48). )
- les poudres d'organopolysiloxane réticulé élastomère enrobées de résine de silicone, notamment de résine silsesquioxane, comme décrit par exemple dans le brevet US 5 538 793. De telles poudres d' élastomère sont vendues sous les dénominations "KSP-100", "KSP-101", " SP-102", "KSP-103", " SP-104", "KSP-105" par la société SHIN ETSU, et elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP" and "KSP-100". "-101", "SP-102", "KSP-103", "SP-104", "KSP-105" by SHIN ETSU, and
- les poudres composites de talc/dioxyde de titane/alumine/silice comme celles vendues sous la dénomination Coverleaf® AR-80 par la société Catalyst & chemicals, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 by the company Catalyst & chemicals,
- leurs mélanges, - their mixtures,
- des composés absorbant et/ou adsorbant le sébum tels que décrits dans la demande de brevet FR 2 869 796. On peut citer notamment : compounds that absorb and / or adsorb sebum as described in patent application FR 2 869 796. In particular, mention may be made of:
- les poudres de silice, comme par exemple les microsphères de silice poreuses vendues sous la dénomination "SILICA BEADS SB-700" commercialisées par la société MYOSHI, les "SU SPHEPvE® Η5Γ, "SUNSPHERE® H33" , "SUNSPHERE® H53" commercialisées par la société ASAHI GLASS ; les microsphères de silice amorphe enrobées de polydiméthylsiloxane vendues sous la dénomination "SA SUNSPHERE® H- 33" et "SA SUNSPHERE® H-53" commercialisées par la société ASAHI GLASS ; silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SU SPHEPvE®", "SUNSPHERE® H33", "SUNSPHERE® H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS, amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H-33" and "SA Sunsphere® H-53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS;
- les poudres de silicates mixtes amorphes, notamment d'aluminium et de magnésium, comme par exemple celle commercialisée sous la dénomination "NEUSILIN UFL2" par la société Sumitomo. amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo.
- les poudres de polyamides (nylon®), comme par exemple "PORGASOL® 4000" commercialisé par la société Arkema, et polyamide (nylon®) powders, such as for example "PORGASOL® 4000" marketed by Arkema, and
- les poudres de polymères acryliques, notamment de polyméthacrylate de méthyle, comme par exemple le "COVABEAD® LH85" commercialisé par la société WACKHERR ; de polyméthacrylate de méthyle/diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol, comme par exemple le "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER" commercialisé par la société DOW CORNING, ou le "GANZPEARL® GMP-0820" commercialisé par la société GANZ CHEMICAL ; de polyméthacrylate d'allyle/diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol, comme par exemple le "POLY-PORE® L200" ou le "POLY-PORE® E200"
commercialisés par la société AMCOL ; de copolymère diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol/méthacrylate de lauryle, comme par exemple le "POLYTRAP® 6603" commercialisé de la société DOW CORNING ; acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD® LH85" marketed by WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl® GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; of allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example "POLY-PORE® L200" or "POLY-PORE® E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP® 6603" marketed from Dow Corning;
- les particules de silicate, telle que la silicate d'alumine ; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate;
- les particules de silicates mixtes, telles que : mixed silicate particles, such as:
- les particules de silicate d'aluminium et de magnésium, telles que la saponite ou silicate de magnésium et d'aluminium hydraté avec un sulfate de sodium commercialisée sous la dénomination commerciale Sumecton® par la société Kunimine ; magnesium aluminum silicate particles, such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulphate marketed under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;
- le complexe silicate de magnésium, hydroxyéthylcellulose, huile de cumin noir, huile de courge et phospholipides ou Matipure® de Lucas Meyer, et the magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Matipure® by Lucas Meyer, and
- leurs mélanges. - their mixtures.
Comme agents matifiants préférés, on pourra utiliser selon l'invention un extrait de graines de potiron, un amidon de riz ou de mais, la kaolinite, des silices, le talc, les poudres de polyamides, les poudres de polyethylènes, les poudres de copolymères acryliques, les microsphères de copolymères acryliques expansées, les microbilles de résines de silicones, les particules de silicate mixte et leurs mélanges. As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof.
Charges à effet flouteur Ces charges peuvent être tout matériau susceptible de modifier les rides par ses propriétés physiques intrinsèques et de les masquer. Ces charges peuvent notamment modifier les rides par un effet tenseur, un effet de camouflage, ou un effet de floutage. Loads with a blooming effect These fillers can be any material that can modify wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and mask them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
En tant que charge, on peut donner à titre d'exemples les composés suivants : As filler, the following compounds may be exemplified:
- les microparticules poreuses de silice comme par exemple les Silica Beads® SB 150 et SB 700 de Myochi de taille moyenne de 5μηι et les SUNSPHERES® série H d'Asahi Glass comme les H33, H51 de taille respectivement de 3,5 et 5 μιη. porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 with a mean size of 5μηι and Asahi Glass's SUNSPHERES® H series, such as H33 and H51 with sizes of 3.5 and 5 μιη respectively; .
- les particules hémisphériques creuses de résines de silicones comme les NLK 500®, NLK 506® et NLK 510® de Takemoto Oil and Fat, notamment décrites dans EP-A- 1579849, - les poudres de résine de silicone comme par exemple les SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone de taille moyenne de 4,5 μτη. hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849, silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE Silicone medium size 4.5 μτη.
- les poudres de copolymères acryliques, notamment de poly(meth)acrylate de méthyle comme par exemple les particules PMMA Jurimer MBI® de Nihon Junyoki de taille moyenne de 8μηι, les sphères creuses de PMMA vendues sous la dénomination
COVABEAD® LH 85 par la société Wackherr et les microsphères de vinylidène/acrylonitrile/méthacrylates de méthylène expansées vendues sous la dénomination Expancel®. powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, and the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®.
- les poudres de cires comme les particules Paraffïn wax micro loase® 114S de Micropowders de taille moyenne de 7μη . wax powders such as paraffin wax micro loase® 114S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 μm.
- les poudres de polyéthylènes notamment comprenant au moins un copolymère éthylène/acide acrylique comme par exemple les FLOBEADS® EA 209 E de Sumimoto de taille moyenne de ΙΟμπι. powders of polyethylenes in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of ΙΟμπι.
- les poudres d'organopolysiloxanes élastomériques réticulées enrobées de résine de silicone notamment de silsesquioxane sous la dénomination KSP 100®, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®,
KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® et KSP 105® par la société Shin Etsu. KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by Shin Etsu.
- les poudres composites de talc/dioxyde ou de titane/alumine/silice comme par exemple les Coverleaf AR 80® de la société Catalyst & Chemical. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example the Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst & Chemical.
- le talc, le mica, le kaolin, la lauryl glycine, les poudres d'amidon réticulés par l'anhydride octéanyl succinate, le nitrure de bore, les poudres de polytétrafluoroéthylène, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate de Γ hydrocarbonate de magnésium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, le silicate de calcium, le dioxyde de cérium et les microcapsules de verre ou de céramiques. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate , barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics.
- les fibres hydrophiles ou hydrophobes synthétiques ou naturelles, minérales ou organiques telles que des fibres de soie, de coton, de laine, de lin, de cellulose extraites notamment du bois, des légumes ou des algues, de polyamide (Nylon®), de cellulose modifiée, de poly-p- phénylène téréphtamide, en acrylique, de polyoléfine, de verre, de silice, d'aramide, de carbone, de polytétrafluoroéthylène (Téflon®), de collagène insoluble, de polyesters, de polychlorure de vinyle ou de vinylidène, d'alcool polyvinylique, de polyacrylonitrile, de chitosane, de polyuréthane, de polyéthylène phtalate, des fibres formées d'un mélange de polymères, les fibres synthétiques résorbables, et leurs mélanges décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 1 151 742. synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742.
les silicones réticulés élastomères sphériques comme comme les Trefil E-505C® ou E-506 C® de chez Dow Corning. spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning.
- les charges abrasives qui par effet mécanique apportent un lissage du microrelief cutané, telles que la silice abrasive comme par exemple Abrasif SP® de Semanez ou des poudres de noix ou de coques (abricot, noix par exemple de Cosmétochem).
Les charges ayant un effet sur les signes du vieillissement sont notamment choisies parmi des microparticules poreuse de silice, des particules hémisphériques creuses de silicones, des poudres de résine de silicone, des poudres de copolymères acryliques, des poudres de polyéthylènes, des poudres d'organopolysiloxanes élastomériques réticulées enrobées de résine de silicone, des poudres composites de talc/dioxyde de titane/alumine/silice, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate de l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, le silicate de calcium, le dioxyde de cérium et les microcapsules de verre ou de céramiques, les fibres de soie, de coton, et leurs mélanges. La charge peut être une charge « soft focus ». abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem). The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof. The charge can be a "soft focus" charge.
Par charge « soft-focus », on entend une charge qui en plus donne de la transparence au teint et un effet flou. De préférence, les charges « soft-focus » ont une taille moyenne des particules inférieure ou égale à 15 microns. Ces particules peuvent être de toutes formes et en particulier être sphériques ou non sphériques. De préférence encore, ces charges sont non sphériques. By "soft-focus" load, we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
Les charges « soft-focus » peuvent être choisies parmi les poudres de silice et silicates, notamment d'alumine, les poudres de type polyméthyl méthacrylate (PMMA), le talc, les composites silice/Ti02 ou silice/oxyde de zinc, les poudres de polyéthylène, les poudres d'amidon, les poudres de polyamides, les poudres de copolymères styrène/acrylique, les élastomères de silicone, et leurs mélanges. The "soft-focus" fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
En particulier, on peut citer le talc de taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 3 microns, par exemple du talc de taille moyenne en nombre de 1,8 micron et notamment celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale Talc P3® par la société Nippon Talc, la poudre de Nylon® 12, notamment celle vendue sous le dénomination Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® par la société Atochem, les particules de silice traitées en surface par une cire minérale 1 à 2 % (nom INCI : hydrated silica (and) paraffin) telles que celles commercialisées par la société Degussa, les microsphères de silice amorphe, telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination Sunsphère par exemple de référence H-53® par la société Asahi Glass, et les micro-billes de silice telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination SB-700® ou SB- 150® par la société Miyoshi, cette liste n'étant pas limitative.
La concentration de ces charges ayant un effet sur les signes du vieillissement dans les compositions selon l'invention peut être comprise entre 0,1 et 40 %, voire entre 0,1 et 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Agents favorisant la coloration naturellement rosée de la peau: In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a mean size of 1.8 microns, and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc. , Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi, this list is not limiting. The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin:
Les compositions mises en oeuvre selon l'invention peuvent comprendre en outre un agent favorisant la coloration naturellement rosée de la peau. On peut citer notamment : The compositions used according to the invention may also comprise an agent promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin. We can mention in particular:
- un agent autobronzant, c'est-à-dire un agent qui, appliqué sur la peau, notamment sur le visage, permet d'obtenir un effet de bronzage d'apparence plus ou moins semblable à celui qui peut résulter d'une exposition prolongée au soleil (bronzage naturel) ou sous une lampe UV ; a self-tanning agent, that is to say an agent which, applied on the skin, in particular on the face, makes it possible to obtain a tanning effect of a more or less similar appearance to that which may result from an exposure prolonged in the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp;
- un agent de coloration additionnel, c'est-à-dire tout composé ayant une affinité particulière pour la peau lui permettant de conférer à cette dernière une coloration durable, non- couvrante (à savoir n'ayant pas tendance à opacifier la peau) et qui ne s'élimine ni à l'eau ni à l'aide d'un solvant, et qui résiste à la fois au frottement et au lavage par une solution contenant des tensioactifs. Une telle coloration durable se distingue donc de la coloration superficielle et momentanée apportée par exemple par un pigment de maquillage ; an additional coloring agent, that is to say any compound having a particular affinity for the skin enabling it to confer on the latter a durable, non-covering coloration (ie not having a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removable with water or with the aid of a solvent, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided for example by a makeup pigment;
et leurs mélanges. and their mixtures.
Comme exemples d'agents autobronzants, on peut citer notamment : Examples of self-tanning agents include:
la dihydoxyacétone (DHA) (utilisée en complément d'un composé C pour pour photoprotection (ou filtre) ou le soin, de la peau ), dihydoxyacetone (DHA) (used in addition to a compound C for photoprotection (or filter) or care, of the skin),
l'érythrulose, et erythrulosis, and
l'association d'un système catalytique formé de : the association of a catalytic system formed of:
sels et oxydes de manganèse et/ou de zinc, et salts and oxides of manganese and / or zinc, and
hydrogénocarbonates alcalins et/ou alcalinoterreux. alkaline and / or alkaline earth hydrogenocarbonates.
Les agents autobronzants sont généralement choisis parmi les composés mono ou polycarbonylés tels que par exemple l'isatine, l'alloxane, la ninhydrine, le glycéraldéhyde, l'aldéhyde mésotartrique, la glutaraldéhyde, l'érythrulose, les dérivés de pyrazolin-4,5- diones telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet FR 2 466 492 et WO 97/35842, la dihydroxyacétone (DHA), les dérivés de 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones telles que décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 903 342. On utilisera de préférence la DHA.
La DHA peut être utilisée sous forme libre et/ou encapsulée par exemple dans des vésicules lipidiques telle que des liposomes, notamment décrits dans la demande WO 97/25970. D'une manière générale, l'autobronzant est présent en une quantité allant de 0,01 à 20 % en poids, et de préférence en quantité comprise entre 0,1 et 10 % du poids total de la composition. The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono or polycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5 derivatives. diones as described in patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives as described in patent application EP 903 342. DHA will preferably be used. DHA may be used in free form and / or encapsulated for example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, in particular described in application WO 97/25970. In general, the self-tanning agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% of the total weight of the composition.
On peut encore utiliser d'autres colorants qui permettent de modifier la couleur produite par l'agent autobronzant. It is also possible to use other dyes which make it possible to modify the color produced by the self-tanning agent.
Ces colorants peuvent être choisis parmi les colorants directs synthétiques ou naturels. These dyes may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes or natural dyes.
Ces colorants peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les colorants rouges ou oranges du type fluorane tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet FR2840806. On peut citer par exemple les colorants suivants : These dyes may be chosen, for example, from red or orange dyes of the fluoran type such as those described in the patent application FR2840806. For example, the following dyes may be mentioned:
- le tetrabromofluoroscéine ou éosine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45380 ou Red 21 tetrabromofluorescein or eosin known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 or Red 21
- la phloxine B connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45410 ou Red 27 Phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 or Red 27
- la diiodofluorescéine connue sous le nom CTFA CI 45425 ou Orange 10 ; diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA CI 45425 or Orange 10;
- la dibromofluorescéine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45370 ou Orange 5. dibromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45370 or Orange 5.
- le sel de sodium de la tetrabromofluoroscéine connue sous le nom CTFA : CI 45380 (Na sait) ou Red 22 - the sodium salt of tetrabromofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45380 (Na knows) or Red 22
- le sel de sodium de la phloxine B connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45410 (Na sait) ou Red 28 the sodium salt of phloxine B known under the CTFA name: CI 45410 (Na knows) or Red 28
- le sel de sodium de la diiodofluorescéine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45425 (Na sait) ou Orange 11 ; the sodium salt of diiodofluorescein known under the name CTFA: CI 45425 (Na knows) or Orange 11;
- l'érythrosine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45430 ou Acid Red 51. erythrosine known under the name CTFA: CI 45430 or Acid Red 51.
- la phloxine connu sous le nom CTFA : CI 45405 ou Acid Red 98. Ces colorants peuvent être également choisis parmi les antraquinones, le caramel, le carmin, le noir de charbon, les bleus azulènes, le methoxalène, le trioxalène, le guajazulène, le chamuzulène, le rose de bengale, la cosine 10B, la cyanosine, la daphinine.
Ces colorants peuvent être également choisis parmi les dérivés indoliques comme les monohydroxyindoles tels que décrits dans le brevet FR2651126 ( ie : 4-, 5-, 6- ou 7- hydroxyindole) ou les di-hydroxyindoles tels que décrits dans le brevet EP-B-0425324 (ie : 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-méthyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-méthyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3- diméthyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole) ; phloxine known under the name CTFA: CI 45405 or Acid Red 98. These dyes may also be chosen from antraquinones, caramel, carmine, charcoal black, azulene blue, methoxalene, trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, bengal rose, cosine 10B, cyanosine, daphinin. These dyes may also be chosen from indole derivatives such as the monohydroxyindoles as described in the patent FR2651126 (ie: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the di-hydroxyindoles as described in the EP-B patent. -0425324 (ie: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole);
Charges abrasives ou agents exfoliants Abrasive loads or exfoliating agents
Comme agents exfoliants utilisables dans des compositions rincées selon l'invention, on peut citer par exemple des particules exfoliantes ou gommantes d'origine minérale, végétale ou organique. Ainsi, on peut utiliser par exemple des billes ou de la poudre de polyéthylène, de la poudre de nylon, de la poudre de polychlorure de vinyle, de la pierre ponce, des broyats de noyaux d'abricots ou de coques de noix, de la sciure de bois, des billes de verre, l'alumine, et leurs mélanges. On peut citer aussi l'Exfogreen® de Solabia (extrait de bambou), des extraits d'akenes de fraises (Akènes de fraise de Greentech), de la poudre de noyau de pêche, la poudre de noyau d'abricot, et enfin dans le domaine des poudres végétales à effet abrasif, citons la poudre de noyaux d'airelles (cranberry). As exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof. Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract), strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akènes), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.
Comme charges abrasives ou agents exfoliants préférés selon l'invention, on citera la poudre de noyaux de pêche, la poudre de noyaux d'abricot, la poudre de noyaux d'airelles, les extraits d'akènes de fraise, les extraits de bambou. As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.
L'invention concerne également un ensemble cosmétique, ou kit, comprenant au moins: The invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly, or kit, comprising at least:
- une première composition comprenant, dans un milieu physio logiquement acceptable, au moins un composé ou ensemble de composé A tel que décrit ci-dessus; a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound or set of compound A as described above;
- une deuxième composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé C tel que décrit ci-dessus. a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound C as described above.
L'ensemble selon l'invention peut ainsi être composé d'un système bicompartimenté. Il peut également correspondre à un ensemble comprenant la première composition sous une première forme galénique (par exemple une crème contenant le composé ou l'ensemble de composés A) est la deuxième composition sous une seconde forme galénique (par exemple un système roll-on, un spray, ...)
Un tel ensemble cosmétique peut être utile lorsque des composants de la première et de la deuxième composition présentent une instabilité (qu'elle soit physique ou chimique) lorsqu'ils sont mélangés, ou lorsqu'on souhaite éviter que le composé ou ensemble de composés A et le composé C puissent agir entre eux avant application sur la peau. En formulant ainsi les compositions, on peut notamment améliorer de manière sensible la stabilité de la DHA, par exemple. The assembly according to the invention can thus be composed of a two-compartment system. It may also correspond to a set comprising the first composition in a first galenic form (for example a cream containing the compound or set of compounds A) is the second composition in a second galenic form (for example a roll-on system, a spray, ...) Such a cosmetic assembly may be useful when components of the first and second compositions exhibit instability (whether physical or chemical) when they are mixed, or when it is desired to avoid that the compound or set of compounds A and the compound C can act between them before application to the skin. Thus, by formulating the compositions, the stability of the DHA can be substantially improved, for example.
Ainsi, selon un mode particulier de réalisation, l'ensemble cosmétique comprend: Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic assembly comprises:
- une première composition comprenant un composé A ou ensemble de composés A tel que définis ci-dessus, la fonction FA étant une fonction aminé primaire (le composé A étant plus particulièrement l'APTES); et a first composition comprising a compound A or a set of compounds A as defined above, the function F A being a primary amine function (the compound A being more particularly the APTES); and
- une deuxième composition comprenant la DHA. a second composition comprising DHA.
Les exemples ci-après sont fournis à titre illustratif, et non limitatif, de l'invention. The following examples are provided by way of illustration, and not limitation, of the invention.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Mise en évidence de l'amélioration des propriétés de rémanences des formules Example 1: Demonstration of the improvement of the properties of remanence of the formulas
Principe du test : Principle of the test:
On forme par évaporation d'une solution, un film de poly APTES dans une boîte de PETRI en y déposant environ 6 mL de la formulation décrite dans le tableau 1 ci-dessous. Après séchage et formation d'un film dans la boîte de Pétri on dépose alors quelques gouttes de la formulation du tableau 2. By evaporation of a solution, a poly APTES film is formed in a PETRI dish by depositing therein about 6 mL of the formulation described in Table 1 below. After drying and forming a film in the Petri dish, a few drops of the formulation of Table 2 are then deposited.
En quelques minutes une coloration brune apparaît à l'endroit ou les quelques gouttes de formulation du tableau 2 ont été déposées. La coloration va en s 'intensifiant et atteint son maximum en 1 heure environ. Exemple 2 : Formulations comprenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre (A) et de la DHA (C) - mise en évidence d'une montée en couleur et d'une intensité de couleur améliorées.
Tableau 1 : Formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre In a few minutes a brown coloration appears where the few drops of formulation in Table 2 have been deposited. The coloring intensifies and reaches its maximum in about 1 hour. Example 2 Formulations Comprising Free Amino Alkoxysilane (A) and DHA (C) - Demonstration of Improved Color Enhancement and Color Intensity Table 1: Formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane
Tableau 2: Formulation contenant de la DHA : Table 2: Formulation containing DHA:
Les inventeurs on appliqué côte à côte (sous la forme de spots) sur le bras d'un utilisateur des formulations selon les modalités suivantes: The inventors are applied side by side (in the form of spots) on the arm of a user of the formulations according to the following modalities:
a- application de la formulation de DHA selon le tableau 2 a- application of the DHA formulation according to Table 2
b- application de la formulation d' APTES du tableau 1 ; séchage pendant 10 minutes à température ambiante; puis application de la formulation de DHA du tableau 2 sur la zone recouverte d' APTE S b- application of the formulation of APTES in Table 1; drying for 10 minutes at room temperature; then application of the DHA formulation of Table 2 on the area covered by APTE S
c- application de la formulation d'APTES du tableau 1 ; puis application de la formulation de DHA du tableau 2 sur la zone recouverte d'APTES, sans séchage intermédiaire c- application of the formulation of APTES in Table 1; then application of the Table 2 DHA formulation to the APTES-coated area without intermediate drying
d- application d'un mélange extemporané des formulations des tableaux 1 et 2. application of an extemporaneous mixture of the formulations of Tables 1 and 2.
Au bout de 30 minutes environ, on voit apparaître une coloration brune bien plus marquée dans le cas d'une application selon les modalités b, c et d, par rapport à la modalité a. En d'autres termes, l'application sur la peau de la DHA avec de l'APTES permet d'obtenir une montée en coloration plus rapide que lorsque seule la DHA est appliquée. Les résultats obtenus après une heure sont représentés sur la figure 1. After about 30 minutes, a much more pronounced brown coloration is observed in the case of an application according to the modalities b, c and d, with respect to the modality a. In other words, the application on the skin of DHA with APTES makes it possible to obtain a faster rise in coloration than when only the DHA is applied. The results obtained after one hour are shown in FIG.
Après plusieurs heures, notamment après 3 heures, la coloration est très intense lorsque la DHA a été appliquée avec l'APTES, alors qu'elle n'est que modérée dans le cas d'une application de la DHA seule. On observe également que la zone traitée est devenue insoluble.
Bien que les trois modalités d'application b, c et d aient permis d'obtenir des résultats plus satisfaisants que lors d'une application de la DHA seule, les inventeurs ont observé une montée en coloration et une intensité de coloration plus importantes selon la modalité c (application de l'APTES puis application de la DHA, sans séchage intermédiaire). After several hours, especially after 3 hours, the coloring is very intense when the DHA has been applied with the APTES, whereas it is only moderate in the case of an application of the DHA alone. It is also observed that the treated area has become insoluble. Although the three application modalities b, c and d made it possible to obtain more satisfactory results than during an application of DHA alone, the inventors observed a greater increase in coloration and color intensity according to the modality c (application of the APTES then application of DHA, without intermediate drying).
Exemple 3: Mise en évidence de l'insolubilisation du dépôt Example 3 Demonstration of the insolubilization of the deposit
Les propriétés recherchées de rémanence et de tenue de l'effet cosmétique peuvent être améliorées grâce à l'insolubilisation du dépôt obtenu par application d'une molécule portant une fonction susceptible de réagir avec une aminé libre sur le film de Poly APTES obtenu à partir d'un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé primaire. The desired properties of persistence and resistance to the cosmetic effect can be improved by the insolubilization of the deposit obtained by applying a molecule carrying a function capable of reacting with a free amine on the Poly APTES film obtained from an alkoxysilane having a primary amine function.
Le protocole décrit à l'exemple 1 ci-dessus est mis en oeuvre dans sa totalité. Puis, L'insolubilisation des dépôts consécutive à l'application d'une solution de DHA sur le film de Poly APTES est mise en évidence en déposant une quantité d'eau suffisante dans la boite de Pétri. Au bout de quelques heures le dépôt de poly APTES est solubilisé sauf à l'endroit ou a été déposé une goutte de solution de DHA. A cet endroit, le dépôt reste insoluble et surnage dans la boite de Pétri. Exemple 4: Obtention d'un effet fluorescent The protocol described in Example 1 above is implemented in its entirety. Then, the insolubilization of the deposits following the application of a solution of DHA on the film of Poly APTES is brought out by depositing a quantity of sufficient water in the Petri dish. After a few hours the deposition of poly APTES is solubilized except where a drop of DHA solution has been deposited. At this point, the deposit remains insoluble and floats in the petri dish. Example 4: Obtaining a fluorescent effect
La formulation d'APTES du tableau 1 est appliquée sur une partie de la peau. On applique ensuite une solution d'hydroxycitronellal à 1 % dans l'éthanol. De manière surprenante, la zone traitée présente une fluorescence sous UV. Le même effet a été observé après application de nonalal. The APTES formulation of Table 1 is applied to a portion of the skin. A solution of 1% hydroxycitronellal in ethanol is then applied. Surprisingly, the treated area has fluorescence under UV. The same effect was observed after application of nonalal.
Exemple 5 : Formulations d'un alcoxysilane (A) et un composé parfumant (C) EXAMPLE 5 Formulations of an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Perfuming Compound (C)
La formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre est celle du tableau 1 ci- dessus.
Tableau 3: Formulation contenant de l'aldéhyde cinnamique The formulation containing a free amino function alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above. Table 3: Formulation Containing Cinnamaldehyde
Exemple 6 : Formulations contenant un alcoxysilane (A) et un composé filtrant les UV (C) La formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre est celle du tableau 1 ci- dessus. Example 6 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a UV-screening Compound (C) The formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
Tableau 4: Formulation contenant du Mexoryl SX Table 4: Formulation Containing Mexoryl SX
Exemple 7 : Formulations contenant un alcoxysilane (A) et un actif anti-pelliculaire (C) Example 7 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and an Anti-Dandruff Active (C)
La formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre est celle du tableau 1 ci- dessus. The formulation containing a free amino function alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
Tableau 5: Formulation contenant du ZnPt : Table 5: Formulation Containing ZnPt:
Type Concentration (%) Type Concentration (%)
ZINC PYRITHIONE 2 ZINC PYRITHIONE 2
DISODIUM EDTA 0,1 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1
CONSERVATEUR 0,7 CONSERVATIVE 0.7
CONSERVATEUR 0,2 CONSERVATIVE 0.2
GLYCERINE 2 GLYCERINE 2
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2
PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0,35 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.35
EAU 92,65
Exemple 8 : Formulations contenant un alcoxysilane (A) et un actif de soin de la peau fC) La formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre est celle du tableau 1 ci- dessus. Tableau 6: Formulation contenant de la Vitamine C WATER 92.65 Example 8 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Skin Care Active (c) The formulation containing an alkoxysilane having a free amino function is that of Table 1 above. Table 6: Formulation Containing Vitamin C
Exemple 9 : Formulations contenant un alcoxysilane (A) et un polymère conditionneur ( C) La formulation contenant un alcoxysilane à fonction aminé libre est celle du tableau 1 ci- dessus. Example 9 Formulations Containing an Alkoxysilane (A) and a Conditioning Polymer (C) The formulation containing a free amino-functional alkoxysilane is that of Table 1 above.
Tableau 7: Formulation contenant un copolymère d'anhydride maléique : Table 7: Formulation containing a maleic anhydride copolymer:
Type Concentration (%) Type Concentration (%)
Polypropylène maleic anhydride - LICOCARE de CLARIANT 2 Polypropylene maleic anhydride - LICOCARE of CLARIANT 2
DISODIUM EDTA 0, 1 DISODIUM EDTA 0, 1
CONSERVATEUR 0,7 CONSERVATIVE 0.7
CONSERVATEUR 0,2 CONSERVATIVE 0.2
GLYCERINE 2 GLYCERINE 2
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2
PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0,35 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.35
EAU 92,65
WATER 92.65
Claims
1. Procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau, comprenant l'application sur la peau : 1. A cosmetic skin treatment method, comprising the application on the skin:
d'un composé ou ensemble de composés A apte(s) à condenser in situ et présentant au moins une fonction réactive FA libre après condensation ; et a compound or set of compounds A capable (s) to condense in situ and having at least one free reactive function F A after condensation; and
d'un composé C d'intérêt cosmétique comprenant une fonction réactive Fc susceptible de former une liaison covalente par réaction avec la fonction FA- a compound C of cosmetic interest comprising a reactive function Fc capable of forming a covalent bond by reaction with the function F A -
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, où le matériau issu de la condensation de A est so lubie dans l'eau, et le composé C est choisi de manière à ce que la réaction dudit composé C sur le matériau issu de la condensation de A conduise à une diminution de la solubilité dudit matériau dans l'eau. 2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the material resulting from the condensation of A is soluble in water, and the compound C is chosen so that the reaction of said compound C on the material resulting from the condensation of A lead to a decrease in the solubility of said material in water.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel le composé A comprend un composé organique du silicium comprenant de 1 à 3 atomes de silicium, et au moins deux groupes hydroxyles ou hydrolysables. 3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, in which the compound A comprises an organic silicon compound comprising from 1 to 3 silicon atoms, and at least two hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups.
4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, dans lequel la fonction de capture est une aminé, de préférence une aminé primaire. The method according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the capture function is an amine, preferably a primary amine.
5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, dans lequel le composé A répond à la formule The process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the compound A has the formula
dans laquelle : in which :
R4 représente un halogène, un groupe OR' ou R' ; R4 is halogen, OR 'or R';
R5 représente un halogène, un groupe OR" ou R'2 ; R5 is halogen, OR "or R'2;
Rg représente un halogène, un groupe OR'" ou R'3 ; Rg represents a halogen, a group OR '' or R'3;
et Rj, R2, R3, R', R", R'", R'i , R'2, R'3 représentent, indépendamment les uns des autres, un groupe hydrocarboné saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, portant éventuellement des groupes chimiques supplémentaires tels que des groupes acides ou aminés, Rj, ]¾, R', R" et R'" pouvant en outre désigner l'hydrogène, et deux au moins des groupes R4, R5 et Rg étant différents des groupes R'j, R'2 etand R j, R2, R3, R ', R ", R'", R ', R'2, R'3 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, straight or branched, bearing optionally additional chemical groups such as acids or amino groups, R j,] ¾, R ', R "and R"' also possibly denoting hydrogen, and at least two of R4, R5 and Rg are different from groups R ' j , R'2 and
R'3. R ' 3 .
6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel A est le γ- aminopropyl triéthoxysilane (APTES) ou un de ses dérivés. 6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein A is γ-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES) or a derivative thereof.
7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, ledit procédé étant un procédé cosmétique de conditionnement de la peau, ledit composé C étant capable de modifier les propriétés physico-chimiques de la surface de la peau. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said method being a cosmetic process for conditioning the skin, said compound C being capable of modifying the physicochemical properties of the surface of the skin.
8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, le composé C étant choisi parmi les polymères conditionneurs. 8. The method of claim 7, the compound C being selected from conditioning polymers.
9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, ledit procédé étant un procédé cosmétique pour modifier une activité biologique de la peau. 9. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said process being a cosmetic process for modifying a biological activity of the skin.
10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, comprenant une application séquentielle des composés avec: The method of any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising sequentially applying the compounds with:
- dans un premier temps, l'application du composé ou de l'ensemble de composés A; in a first step, the application of the compound or the set of compounds A;
- dans un deuxième temps, éventuellement après rinçage, l'application du composé C. - In a second step, possibly after rinsing, the application of compound C.
11. Ensemble cosmétique comprenant au moins: 11. Cosmetic assembly comprising at least:
- une première composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé ou ensemble de composé A tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes; a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound or set of compound A as defined in any one of the preceding claims;
- une deuxième composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé C tel que défini dans l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes. a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound C as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0959261A FR2954141B1 (en) | 2009-12-18 | 2009-12-18 | PROCESS FOR CAPTURING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN THE SKIN |
FR0959262A FR2954142B1 (en) | 2009-12-18 | 2009-12-18 | COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS INVOLVING A COMPOUND SUITABLE FOR CONDENSING IN SITU |
US29656310P | 2010-01-20 | 2010-01-20 | |
US29656110P | 2010-01-20 | 2010-01-20 | |
PCT/EP2010/069803 WO2011073279A2 (en) | 2009-12-18 | 2010-12-15 | Cosmetic treatment method involving a compound capable of condensing in situ |
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EP2512416A2 true EP2512416A2 (en) | 2012-10-24 |
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EP10805812A Withdrawn EP2512417A2 (en) | 2009-12-18 | 2010-12-15 | Cosmetic treatment method using a compound that can be condensed in situ and a uv-radiation-filtering agent |
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EP10805812A Withdrawn EP2512417A2 (en) | 2009-12-18 | 2010-12-15 | Cosmetic treatment method using a compound that can be condensed in situ and a uv-radiation-filtering agent |
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EP (2) | EP2512416A2 (en) |
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- 2010-12-15 EP EP10793232A patent/EP2512416A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-12-15 US US13/516,546 patent/US20130034509A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2010-12-15 JP JP2012543731A patent/JP2013514316A/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-12-15 CN CN201080057748.5A patent/CN103260596B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2010-12-15 JP JP2012543878A patent/JP5801318B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2010-12-15 WO PCT/EP2010/069805 patent/WO2011073280A2/en active Application Filing
- 2010-12-15 WO PCT/FR2010/052744 patent/WO2011073578A2/en active Application Filing
- 2010-12-15 WO PCT/FR2010/052742 patent/WO2011073576A2/en active Application Filing
- 2010-12-15 EP EP10805812A patent/EP2512417A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2010-12-15 WO PCT/EP2010/069803 patent/WO2011073279A2/en active Application Filing
- 2010-12-15 BR BR112012014715A patent/BR112012014715A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2010-12-15 BR BR112012014661-0A patent/BR112012014661A2/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2010-12-15 US US13/516,389 patent/US9078831B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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Also Published As
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WO2011073578A2 (en) | 2011-06-23 |
US9078831B2 (en) | 2015-07-14 |
WO2011073576A3 (en) | 2012-11-15 |
WO2011073279A3 (en) | 2012-08-23 |
BR112012014715A2 (en) | 2018-10-09 |
CN102933194A (en) | 2013-02-13 |
JP5801318B2 (en) | 2015-10-28 |
JP2013514316A (en) | 2013-04-25 |
JP2013514341A (en) | 2013-04-25 |
BR112012014661A2 (en) | 2020-12-29 |
CN103260596A (en) | 2013-08-21 |
WO2011073576A2 (en) | 2011-06-23 |
CN103260596B (en) | 2016-08-31 |
US20130034509A1 (en) | 2013-02-07 |
WO2011073279A2 (en) | 2011-06-23 |
WO2011073578A3 (en) | 2012-08-02 |
EP2512417A2 (en) | 2012-10-24 |
WO2011073280A2 (en) | 2011-06-23 |
US20120328542A1 (en) | 2012-12-27 |
WO2011073280A3 (en) | 2012-11-01 |
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