FR2869796A1 - Cosmetic composition, used as a make-up and/or skin care product in a medium, comprises a compound absorbing and/or adsorbing the sebum, and a charge with optical effect - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A) for make-up and/or skin care in a medium, comprises a compound (I) absorbing and/or adsorbing the sebum (having a sebum intake higher or equal to 0.5 ml/g and average particle size of lower or equal to 10mu m) and a charge (II) with optical effect (having a refraction index lower or equal to 2.5 and average particle size higher than the average particle size of (I) and higher than 3 mu m). An independent claim is also included for a process for make-up and/or skin care, comprising applying (A) on the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the

  makeup and / or skin care, especially of the face.

  More particularly, the compositions considered according to the invention may constitute a make-up product, for example of the face, in particular intended to reduce the gloss of the so-called oily skins and / or to improve the long-term hold of the make-up, that is to say to prevent visual degradation during the day. This type of composition is still described as a mattifying cosmetic composition.

  For these purposes, the cosmetic mattifying compositions generally comprise a compound in particulate form and which has a good capacity for absorption and / or adsorption of sebum, also called sebum pump.

  However, it is common that the optical effects provided by these compositions, especially in terms of color, are modified by the absorption and / or adsorption of sebum. The behavior of dullness and / or homogeneity of the makeup is then affected, especially in terms of gloss and / or color, over time. To remedy this, it is usually necessary to carry out a regular makeup renewal.

  The mattifying cosmetic compositions may alternatively comprise a generally spherical powder having optical properties of light diffusion such that they optically blur the glossy appearance of the skin. But these powders in the presence of sebum excreted by the skin during the day lose their property of light scattering and are therefore no longer effective to maintain satisfactory dullness over time.

  There remains therefore a need for a cosmetic composition with a satisfactory and prolonged behavior over time, in terms of dullness and homogeneity of makeup.

  Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it was possible to overcome the aforementioned drawback, provided that the so-called sebum pumps are combined with at least one specific charge.

  In particular, according to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic make-up and / or skincare composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one absorbent and / or sebum adsorbent compound exhibiting sebum greater than or equal to 0.5 ml / g and whose particles have an average size of less than or equal to 10 m, and at least one optical effect filler having a refractive index less than or equal to 2.5 and whose particles have an average size greater than the average particle size of the absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound (s), and greater than 3 m.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound in combination with at least one optical effect filler, according to the invention, in a cosmetic composition. to obtain a makeup with good dullness and uniformity.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a process for making up and / or caring for the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.

  According to another of its aspects, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention to obtain a makeup having good mattness and uniformity.

  The inventors have thus observed that the combination of at least one filler with an optical effect with a so-called sebum-pump compound makes it possible to preserve durably over time the dullness and homogeneity in the color and / or gloss behavior of the product. a so-called mattifying cosmetic composition, provided that these two types of compounds are associated with specific particle sizes.

  More specifically, it has been found that the presence of particles of an optical effect material, whose size is greater than that of the particles constituting the adsorbent compound and / or absorbing sebum, made it possible to overcome effectively the loss in behavior. and homogeneity of makeup, generally observed when there has been adsorption and / or absorption of biological exudate (s) by the so-called sebum pumps particles. The compositions confouiies with the invention advantageously have almost no or no change in their initial mattness when they are brought into contact, and in particular over a prolonged period, with sebum.

  Optical effect charge For the purposes of the invention, optical effect charge means a charge having a refractive index less than or equal to 2.2, especially less than or equal to 2, and in particular less than or equal to 1.8.

  More particularly, it may have a refractive index of the order of that of cosmetic oils, a refractive index ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.

  Advantageously, especially in terms of dullness, the optical effect charges have a limited light absorption. In particular, they can guarantee a semi-transparent deposit within the residual oils and sebum secreted over time.

  The average particle size of the optical effect charges is advantageously greater than that of the particles constituting the absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound, which allows these particles, in the deposit formed after application of the composition to the skin, to emerge from other solid deposits and in particular particles sebum pumps to preferentially return the light.

  Medium size is the average number size.

  More particularly, the optical effect charges may have an average size greater than or equal to 10%, especially 20%, in particular 30% or even 50%, or even 100%, more particularly 200%, even more particularly 300% or even 500%, especially 700%, or even more particularly 1000% relative to the average size of the absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum charges.

  For example, so that the optical effect charges are little or not visible to the naked eye, they may have an average size less than or equal to 20 m, in particular less than or equal to 15 m and in particular less than or equal to 10 m.

  In contrast, the average minimum size of these optical effect charges is generally greater than 3 m, in particular to allow the thickness of the makeup layer to be at least 3 m.

  More particularly, these optical effect fillers may, for example, be chosen from: polyamide (nylon) powders, for example Atofina type Orgasol-type nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1.54; silica powders, such as Miyoshi Silica beads SB150 of average size 5 microns and refractive index 1.45; polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as PTFE ceridust 9205F of size Clariant average 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - silicone resin powders such as Silicon resin Tospearl 145A GE Silicone average size 4.5 microns and refractive index 1, 41, the copolymer powders acrylics, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki of average size 8 microns and of refractive index 1.49, - wax powders such as paraffin wax microease 1145 particles of micropowders d e average size 7 microns and refractive index 1.54, - polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as particles Flobeads EA 209 Sumitomo (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such powders of elastomer are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 by the company Shin Etsu, and talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / composite powders. silica as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by Catalyst & Chemicals, and - mixtures thereof.

  The filler or mixture of optical effect fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, especially from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, or even 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Sebum Absorbing Compound A sebum-absorbing compound is a compound capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing sebum.

  Generally this type of compound is in the form of a particle powder having sebum uptake.

  Advantageously, sebum intake of these compounds is greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, especially greater than or equal to 2 ml / g, and in particular greater than or equal to 3 ml / g.

  Sebum intake is the amount of sebum absorbed and / or adsorbed on the available surface of the particles. It is measured according to the Wet Point method described hereinafter in the examples.

  The sebum absorbing compound particles may have an average size of less than or equal to 5 m, and in particular less than or equal to 3 m.

  In particular, the average size of the sebum-absorbing compound particles, after absorption of sebum, may be less than or equal to 10 m, in particular less than or equal to 5 m, and in particular less than or equal to 3 m.

  It is also possible to characterize the particles absorbing sebum by their density. In the context of the present invention, this density is evaluated according to the following protocol, called the packed density: M = 40 g of powder is poured into a graduated cylinder; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to 1500 settlements; then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (m being expressed in g and Vf in cm).

  In particular, the packed density of the particles absorbing and / or adsorbable sebum according to the invention may be less than or equal to 2 g / cm 3, in particular less than or equal to 1 g / cm 3, and in particular less than or equal to 0, 5 g / cm3.

  According to a particular embodiment, the particles of absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, especially greater than or equal to 500 m 2 / g, and in particular greater than or equal to 600 m2 / g, and especially less than or equal to 1500 m2 / g.

  The BET specific surface area is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER EMMET TELLER) described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the particles in question.

  The particles of absorbing compound and / or adsorbent sebum may be of mineral or organic origin.

  More specifically, this compound may be chosen from silica, mixed silicates, polyamide (nylon) powders, acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate, and the like. allyl / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

  The particles of this compound may, if appropriate, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular a non-fluorinated treatment agent.

  This hydrophobic treatment agent may especially be chosen from: silicones, such as meticones, dimethicones; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate; and their mixtures.

  The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may in particular denote a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

  The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl group.

  The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

  The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

  As a representative and non-limiting example of the compounds that absorb and / or adsorb sebum according to the invention, mention may be made especially of: silica powders, for example porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 "marketed by the company MYOSHI, the" SUNSPHERE H51 "," SUNSPHERE H33 "," SUNSPHERE H53 "marketed by ASAHI GLASS; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE H-53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; mixed amorphous silicate powders, especially aluminum and magnesium, such as for example that marketed under the name NEUSILIN UFL2 by Sumitomo.

  polyamide (nylon) powders, for example "ORGASOL 4000" marketed by ATOCHEM, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, such as for example "COVABEAD LH85" marketed by WACKHERR; ; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "POLYPORE L200" or "POLYPORE E200" marketed by AMCOL; of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, the "POLYTRAP 6603" marketed by Dow Corning.

  According to a particular variant, the compound absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum 25 is of mineral origin.

  According to a very particularly advantageous embodiment, the particles of absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum are particles of silicate and in particular of mixed silicate, and in particular aluminum and magnesium.

  The silicate particles may in particular have the characteristics described above, and in particular have a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 3 ml / g, in particular ranging from 3 ml / g to 5 ml / g. Such silicate particles are in particular sold under the name "Neusilin UFL-2" by the company SUMITOMO.

  In this case, the sebum-pump compound (s) and the optical effect (s) may be combined in a sebum pump / optical effect weight ratio which may vary from 0.2 to 10, in particular from 0.2 to 7, in particular from 0.2 to 5 or even from 0.5 to 3, more particularly from 0.5 to 2 and even more particularly from 0.5 to 1.5.

  The absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound may be of the same chemical nature as the optical effect charge, or of a different chemical nature.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, they are of different chemical nature. In particular, one can be of mineral nature and the other organic.

  According to a particular variant, the composition according to the invention comprises, as absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound, at least one amorphous mixed silicate of magnesium and aluminum, such as for example Neusilin UFL2, associated with at least one an optical effect charge of the ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer particle type, such as the polyethylene / acrylic acid polymer, especially of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48, such as, for example, the EA 209 Flobeads of Sumitomo.

  The compositions according to the invention may comprise the compound absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum in a content ranging from 0.1 to 98% by weight, especially from 1 to 20% by weight and in particular from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Physiologically Acceptable Medium Physiologically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin or the lips of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied and to the appearance under which the composition is intended to be packaged, especially in the form of a powder and more particularly in the form of a powder. for foundation.

  Liquid fatty phase The composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one liquid fatty phase.

  By "liquid fatty phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

  This may comprise one or more oils or solvents cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, and generally physiologically acceptable.

  More particularly, this liquid fatty phase comprises at least one solvent or volatile oil.

  This oil-like component may in particular be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbonated, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture insofar as they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and where they are compatible with the intended use.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  In particular, this fatty phase may contain a volatile liquid fatty phase and / or a non-volatile liquid fatty phase.

  By "volatile fatty phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium that may evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour. This volatile phase comprises, in particular, volatile oils having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10 -3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

  By non-volatile fatty phase is meant any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips, in less than an hour. This non-volatile phase comprises in particular non-volatile oils remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.001 mmHg).

  Advantageously, one or more volatile oils can be used at room temperature.

  They may be hydrocarbon or silicone and optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain.

  The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls.

  As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having 2 to 10 silicon atoms, preferably 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 99.8% by weight, especially from 10% to 90% by weight, and in particular from 20% to 80% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils. As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, for example formula R10OOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10, as for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononanoate isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in at least one of the compositions of the range according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 98% by weight, especially from 10 to 90% by weight, and in particular from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

  The total liquid fatty phase of the composition may represent from 0.1% to 99.8% by weight, in particular from 10% to 90% by weight and in particular from 20% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase.

  According to a particular variant of the invention, it is in an anhydrous form. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and especially free of water, water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

  Film-forming polymer The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer that may be chosen from liposoluble, lipodispersible film-forming polymers and their mixtures.

  Liposoluble Polymer The liposoluble polymers may be of any chemical nature and include in particular: a) liposoluble and amorphous homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene, styrene, ethers, esters or of vinyl amides, esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid comprising a linear, branched or cyclic C 4 -C 50 alkyl group. The liposoluble homopolymers and copolymers may be chosen from those obtained from monomers chosen from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth) acrylate, isononyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, and (meth) acrylate. ) lauryl acrylate, isopentyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, tridecyl (meth) acrylate , stearyl (meth) acrylate or mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of the alkyl acrylate / cycloalkyl acrylate copolymer sold by PHOENIX CHEM. under the name GIOVAREZ AC-5099 ML.

  Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and especially copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2-C40 alkene, and in particular C3-C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene , VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated.

  As particular liposoluble copolymers, mention may also be made of: i) acrylic-silicone graft polymers with silicone skeleton and acrylic or acrylic skeleton grafts and silicone grafts, such as the product sold under the name "SA 70.5", "SA 70", " VS 80 "by 3M and in particular described in patents US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, US 5,219,560, EP 0 388 582. , US 5032460 or WO 93/23009, ii) liposoluble polymers belonging to one of the classes described above and carrying fluorinated groups, in particular those described in US Pat. No. 5,948,393 and the (meth) acrylate copolymers. alkyl and perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylate described in patents EP 0 815 836 and US 5 849 318, iii) the polymers or copolymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of an ethylenic monomer, comprising one or more ethylenic bonds, preferably conjugates (or diene). This or these agents are in particular vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic copolymers which can be sequenced and in particular of the diblock or triblock type, or even of the multiblock or star type.

  The ethylenic film-forming polymer may comprise in particular a styrenic block (S), an alkylstyrenic block (AS), an ethylene / butylene (EB) block, an ethylene / propylene (EP) block, a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block ( I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA) or a combination of these blocks.

  In particular, it is possible to use as film-forming polymer a copolymer comprising at least one styrenic block. In particular, it is possible to use a triblock copolymer and in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name 'LUVITOL HSB' by BASF and those of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type or else polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type such as those sold under the brand name 'KRATON' by Shell Chemical Co or Gelled Permethyl 99A by Penreco. It is also possible to use styrene-methacrylate copolymers.

  As film-forming polymer that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may also be made, for example, of Kraton G1650 (SEBS), Kraton G1651 (SEBS), Kraton G1652 (SEBS), Kraton G1657X (SEBS), Kraton G1701X (SEP) , Kraton G1702X (SEP), Kraton G1726X (SEB), Kraton G1750X (EP) multi-link, Kraton G1765X (EP) multi-link, Kraton D-1101 (SBS), Kraton D-1102 (SBS), Kraton D-1107 (SiS) , Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, Gelled Permethyl 99A753-58 (triblock and star block polymer blend), Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-59 (triblock and star block polymer blend), Versagel 5970 and Versagel 5960 from in Penreco (mixture of triblock and star polymer in isododecane), OS 129880, OS 129881 and OS 84383 from Lubrizol (styrene-methacrylate copolymer).

  b) amorphous liposoluble polycondensates, in particular those having no hydrogen interaction donor groups, in particular C 4 -C 50 alkyl side chain polyesters or polyesters resulting from the condensation of dimer fatty acids, or polyesters comprising a silicone segment in the form of a sequence, graft or end group, which are solid at room temperature, for example as defined in patent application FR-A-2831430, c) liposoluble and amorphous polysaccharides comprising alkyl side chains ( ethers or esters), in particular the alkyl-celluloses comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

  In general, the film-forming liposoluble polymers of the invention may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 500,000, especially from 2,000 to 250,000, and a glass transition temperature ranging from -100 ° C. to + 300 ° C. in particular from -50 ° C. to + 100 ° C., and in particular from -10 ° C. to + 90 ° C.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil-phase dispersible film-forming polymer (NAD), also called lipodispersible.

  Lipodispersible Polymer The lipodispersible polymer is generally present in the form of a stable dispersion of particles, generally spherical, in the liquid fatty phase. These dispersions may in particular be in the form of nanoparticles of polymers in dispersion. These nanoparticles can have a size ranging from 5 to 600 nm, and in particular ranging from 50 to 250 nm.

  The polymers of the dispersed particles that may be used in the composition according to the invention may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from about 2,000 to 10,000,000.

  The polymer may have a glass transition temperature ranging from 100 ° C. to + 300 ° C., especially from -10 ° C. to + 50 ° C. and more particularly less than or equal to about +40 ° C.

  The polymer used in the present invention in the form of particles dispersed in the fatty phase can be of any kind. It is thus possible to use a radical polymer, a polycondensate, or even a polymer of natural origin and their mixtures. The polymer may be chosen by those skilled in the art depending on its properties.

  It is more particularly a so-called film-forming polymer, i.e. a polymer capable of forming, alone or in combination with a plasticizer, an isolatable film.

  Representative examples of the film-forming polymers that may be mentioned are homopolymers and radical copolymers, acrylic or vinyl, in particular those having a glass transition temperature Tg of less than or equal to about +40 ° C. and in particular ranging from -10 ° C. to + 30 ° C. , and their mixtures.

  Radical polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical polymers may be in particular polymers, or copolymers, vinylic, and in particular acrylic polymers.

  The vinyl polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acids.

  As monomers carrying an acid group, unsaturated α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid may be used. (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more particularly (meth) acrylic acid.

  The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl, and more particularly C 1 -C 8, (meth) acrylates of aryl, especially of C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 alkyl.

  Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate, ) 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and lauryl (meth) acrylate.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate.

  Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

  Especially advantageous esters of (meth) acrylic acid are the alkyl (meth) acrylates.

  As radical polymer, the copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and alkyl (meth) acrylate, in particular C 1 -C 4 alkyl, may be used in particular. More particularly, mention may be made of methyl acrylates optionally copolymerized with acrylic acid such as copolymers of poly (methyl acrylate / acrylic acid) type.

  As amides of the acidic monomers, mention may be made of (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide and N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth) acrylamides.

  The vinyl polymers may also result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one amine group, in free form or partially or completely neutralized, or even partially or totally quaternized. Such monomers may be, for example, chosen from dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide, vinylamine, vinylpyridine and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

  The vinyl polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

  Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

  Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

  The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

  As other vinyl monomers, mention may also be made of: N-vinylpyrrolidone; vinylcaprolactam; N-alkyl (C1-C6) pyrrole vinyls; vinyl oxazoles; vinyl thiazoles; vinylpyrimidines; vinylimidazoles; and olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene and butadiene.

  The vinyl polymer may be crosslinked with difunctional monomer, in particular comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and diallyl phthalate.

  Without limitation, the polymers of the invention may be chosen from the following polymers or copolymers: polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, polyesterpolyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, fatty-chain polyesters, alkyds ; acrylic-silicone copolymers; polyacrylamide; silicone polymers, fluoropolymers; and their mixtures.

  According to one particular variant of the invention, the lipodispersible polymers may be surface-stabilized with at least one liposoluble polymer, for example such as those described in the patent application EP 1 002 528.

  The film-forming polymer dispersion may be prepared as described in EP-A-749747 or in EP-A-002 528. Specifically, the polymerization is carried out in dispersion, that is to say by precipitation of the polymer in progress of formation, with protection of particles formed with a stabilizer. Stabilizers are in particular described in EP 749 747.

  In general, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight of film-forming polymer, dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

  The coalescing agents or plasticizers that can be used in the invention are especially those mentioned in document FR-A-2 782 917.

  Charges The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler, that is to say distinct from the sebum-absorbing compound (s) and the filler (s) with optical effect already retained ( s) in said composition.

  Additional charges may be mineral or organic. They can be of any form, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example leaflet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc ...).

  Among the additional fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may notably be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly- (3-alanine and polyethylene, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 80% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 60% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 40% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 30% by weight. weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight of additional filler relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Powdered coloring material The particulate phase of the composition according to the invention may advantageously also contain at least one pulverulent dyestuff which may be chosen from the pigments and pearlescent agents normally used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made in particular of inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The pulverulent dyestuff may generally be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, especially from 1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

  Additives The composition may also comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, thickeners, water, surfactants, waxes and / or perfumes.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition.

  The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a makeup and / or care product, in particular a blush, an eyeshadow, a powder for the face, a foundation, an anti -cernes, a body make-up product, or even in the form of a facial care product, a body care product.

  The composition may also be in the form of a free or compact powder, a cast product, an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, or a stick.

  The examples given below are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the field of the invention.

MATERIAL AND METHOD

  Measurement method of sebum of a powder The sebum of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of sebum adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m (in grams) of powder is placed between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) on a glass plate and artificial sebum, maintained at a temperature of 29 ° C. and having the following composition expressed in% by weight, is added dropwise: triolein 29 Oleic oleate oleyl oleate squalene cholesterol palmitate cholesterol After addition of 4 to 5 drops of 28.50% 18.50% 14.00% 7.00% 3.00% artificial sebum, the artificial sebum is incorporated into the powder with a spatula and we continue to add artificial sebum until the formation of conglomerates of artificial sebum and powder. From this moment, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of artificial sebum used.

  Sebum intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

  EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Dispersion of Film-forming Polymer A dispersion of uncrosslinked copolymer of methyl acrylate and acrylic acid in an 85/15 ratio in isododecane is prepared according to the method of Example 7 of EP-A-749 747. A dispersion of surface-stabilized poly (methyl acrylate / acrylic acid) particles in isododecane is thus obtained by a polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) block diblock copolymer sold under the US Pat. KRATON name G1701 (Shell), having a solids content of 22.6% by weight and an average particle size of 175 nm (polydispersity: 0.05) and a Tg of 20 C. This copolymer is temperature-film-forming ambient temperature (25 C).

Example 2

  A water-in-oil emulsion foundation having the following composition was prepared: Oily phase: - Magnesium silicate and amorphous aluminum (NEUSILIN UFL2 from Fuji Chemical) 5.00 g Ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer powder ( Granulometry: 10 m) (FLOBEADS EA-209 from Sumitomo) 5.00 g Pigments (iron oxides, titanium dioxide) coated with aluminum stearoylglutamate 10.00 g Dispersion of film-forming polymer of Example 1 40, Styrene / ethylene-butylene / styrene triblock copolymer (Kraton G-1650E from Kraton Polymers) 0.80 g Isododecane 10.00 g Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 5.20 g Polydimethylsiloxane mixture containing oxyethylene oxypropylene groups α-O) (DP: 100-58 / 42) and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) sold under the trade name "Abil EM 97" by the company Goldschmidt 1.35 g Mono-di-glycerides of iso-stearic acid esterified with succinic acid , not stabilized, sold under the denominatio Commercial Inwitor 780 K by the Sasol Company 0.45 g Aqueous phase: Glycerin Preservatives Water The emulsion is prepared by mixing at room temperature the constituents of the oily phase and then adding the previously prepared aqueous phase, with stirring This foundation easily applied to the skin with a good feel to the touch and the resulting makeup provides a soft deposit. The dullness at the time of application is satisfactory and holds well beyond four hours.

3.00 g qs qsp 100.00 g

Example 3

  A powder foundation having the following composition was prepared: Phase A: Talc 29.30 g Pigments (iron and titanium oxides) 13.78 g Mica 15.00 g Boron nitride 6.00 g Titanium dioxide zinc oxide-talc coated with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane (TZ Powder type 2 from Miyoshi) 4.00 g magnesium stearate 3.00 g magnesium and amorphous aluminum silicate (NEUSILIN UFL2 from FUJI CHEMICALS) 2, OOg Copolymer powder ethylene / acrylic acid (particle size 10 m) (FLOBEADS EA-209 from the company SUMITOMO) 5.00 g - Paraffin wax micro-beads (Microease 114S from Micro Powders) 10.00 g Elastomeric silicone spherical powder (Dow Corning) 9506 Dow Corning Powder) 2.00 g Phase B: Isononyl isononanoate 1.20 g preservative 0.80 g 4-methoxycinnamate 2-ethyl hexyl 4.00 g Phase C: - Poly methyl trifluoropropyl dimethylsiloxane (Shin Etsu X22-819) 2.92 g - Amorphous Silica Microspheres (Asahi-Glass Sunsphere H-33) 1.00 g P Foundation oudre is prepared in the following manner: Introduce the phase A constituents into a suitable mixer, mix with a suitable speed and for the time necessary to obtain a homogeneous mixture, add phase B, mix with the mixer and then grind with a suitable grinder add the phase C and homogenize the mixer, and finally sieve, with a suitable sieve, the powder thus obtained.

  The powder foundation thus obtained is easily applied to the skin, providing a pleasant feeling to the touch, the makeup obtained having a soft touch. The dullness at the time of application is good and holds well beyond four hours.

Claims (30)

  1. Cosmetic make-up and / or skincare composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compound, having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 0.5 ml / g and whose particles have an average size of less than or equal to 10 m, and - at least one optical effect filler having a refractive index of less than or equal to 2.5 and whose particles have an average size greater than the average size of the particles. particles of compound (s) absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum, and greater than 3 m.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the optical effect charge has a refractive index less than or equal to 2.2, and in particular less than or equal to 2.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the particles of the optical effect charge have an average size of less than or equal to 20 m, in particular less than or equal to 15 gm.   4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the particles of the optical effect charge have an average size greater than or equal to 10%, especially 20%, in particular 30% relative to the size. particle average of said absorbent compound and / or adsorb sebum.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the optical effect filler is chosen from powders of polyamide, silica, polytetrafluoroethylene, silicone resins, acrylic copolymers, wax, polyethylene, especially ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin-coated elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composites, and mixtures thereof.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 40% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 30%. by weight of charge (s) optical effect relative to the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compound absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum has a sebum intake greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, and in particular greater than or equal to 2 ml / boy Wut.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the particles of the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum have an average size less than or equal to 5 m and in particular less than or equal to 3 m.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the particles of the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum have a packed density less than or equal to 2 g / cm3, especially less than or equal to 1 g / cm3 and in particular less than or equal to 0.5 g / cm3.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the particles of the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m2 / g.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the particles of the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum are of mineral or organic origin.   12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the particles of the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum are selected from silica, mixed silicates, polyamide powders (nylon), powders of acrylic polymers, in particular of polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.   13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 98% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 3 to 10% by weight. of compound (s) absorbing and / or adsorbent sebum relative to the total weight of the composition.   14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the absorbing compound and / or adsorbent sebum is of the same chemical nature as the optical effect load.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum and said optical effect charge are of different nature.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the composition comprises as absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum at least one silicate of aluminum and magnesium.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it comprises at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer and a mixed silicate of aluminum and magnesium.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it comprises at least one liquid fatty phase.   19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile liquid fatty phase.   20. Composition according to claim 18 or 19, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a non-volatile liquid fatty phase.   21. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the volatile liquid fatty phase is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 99.8% by weight, in particular from 10 to 90% by weight, and in particular from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   22. Composition according to any one of claims 18 to 21, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 99.8% by weight and in particular at a content ranging from 10 to 90%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   23. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it further comprises at least one film-forming polymer.   24. Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is a lipodispersible film-forming polymer, and in particular stabilized at the surface by at least one liposoluble polymer.   25. Composition according to claim 23 or 24, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from radical polymers, acrylic or vinyl.   26. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that it is in the form of a makeup product and / or care, including a loose or compact powder, a product poured, an emulsion, in particular emulsion water-in-oil or huiledans-water, a stick.   27. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation.   28. Use of at least one absorbent compound and / or adsorbent sebum in combination with at least one optical effect filler as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, to obtain a makeup having a good mattness and in homogeneity.   29. A method of makeup and / or care of the skin, comprising at least one Io step of application to the skin of at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27.   30. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28 to obtain a makeup with good mattness and uniformity.