JP6535592B2 - Cosmetic method for controlling skin browning induced by UV irradiation, composition - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for controlling the browning of the skin induced by UV radiation, in particular the browning of dark skin, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
a) at least one depigmenting agent,
b) at least one system for shielding both UVA and UVB radiation,
c) a method of applying to the skin surface at least one composition having a critical wavelength λ c greater than 370 nm, and d) optionally including at least one scaly agent.

The invention also relates to a cosmetically acceptable carrier,
a) at least one depigmenting agent,
b) at least one system for shielding both UVA and UVB radiation,
c) a composition having a critical wavelength λ c of greater than 370 nm, d) optionally comprising at least one scaly agent.

  Heretofore, many cosmetic compositions intended to limit the darkening of the skin induced by solar radiation, and more particularly UV radiation, have been proposed. These products are known to the consumer in terms of depigmented products, or bleach or whitening products. These products generally contain molecules active against skin pigmentation, such as hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, or resorcinol and its derivatives.

  The combination of UV screening agents, in particular a combination of UVA and UVB screening agents, with depigmenting agents is disclosed in International Applications WO 04/105736, WO 07/077258, WO 07/077259, WO 07/077260 and US2008069784, and Applications EP 1847247, FR 2900046 and FR 2900 047 Are also known. However, one of the main drawbacks of these compositions is the pigmentation of the skin by UV exposure, as they neither increase the amount of melanin pigment nor increase the melanin already present in the skin. More specifically, it is that the temporal change and preservation of pigmentation of dark skin due to UV exposure can not all be satisfactorily controlled.

  Therefore, based on depigmenting agents and UV screening agents to more effectively control the browning of the skin upon UV exposure, in particular the browning of dark skin, as compared to the prior art compositions known in the prior art There is still a need for the production of compositions.

WO04 / 105736 WO07 / 077258 WO07 / 077259 WO07 / 077260 US2008069784 EP1847247 FR2900046 FR2900 047 EP895779 EP 524109 WO 99/10318 WO 99/32077 WO 99/22707 WO 2004/105736 US 5 624 663 EP 669 323 US2 463 264 US 5 237 071 US 5 166 355 GB2303549 DE 197 26 184 EP893119 EP 0832642 EP1027883 EP1300137 DE 101 62 844 WO 93/04665 DE 198 55 649 EP0967200 DE 197 46 654 DE 197 55 649 EP-A-1008586 EP1133980 EP133981 WO04 / 006878 WO05 / 058269 WO 06/032741 US 6 225 467 WO 2004/085412 WO06 / 035000 WO06 / 034982 WO 06/034991 WO 06/035007 WO 2006/034992 WO2006 / 034985 EP-0 852 949 EP 0 796 861 EP 0 218 200 EP 0 899 330 EP 1 269 986 EP1 555 984 FR8 907 947 EP0 661 035 EP 0 641 557 EP1 414 390 EP-0 274 961 EP-0 780 115 EP1 025 901 FR-2 787 730 EP-1 034 839 FR-2 659 554 WO93 / 05753 EP1 637 124 EP 0 728 460 EP116 005 EP1 172 077 EP 1 353 629 EP1 588 694 EP1 172 089 EP1 466 587 JP-A-2-295912 US-A-5 412 004 US-A-5 811 487 EP1 562 562 EP1 151 742 FR2 869 796 US 5 538 793 EP-A-1 579 849 WO02 / 051828 EP1 484 052 WO 02/47650 FR2 802 425 FR2 810 548 FR2 796 278 FR2 802 420 FR-A-2 812 544 FR-A-2 814 950 WO 01/94381 FR2 877 220 WO03 / 030 937 WO 03/068 753 WO 00/44384 EP-1 038 519 EP 761 204 DE 103 24 567 WO 93/18743 FR0 108 283 EP1 529 523 EP 1 133 979 EP 1 129 694 FR2 722 380 US 5 492 426 FR2 761 959 WO 01/03538 WO03 / 018423 FR2 791 042 FR2 792 618

B. L. Diffey-A method for broad spectrum classification sunscreens Intern. Journ. Sci. 16 pages 47-52 [1994] "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. West Henrietta, New York, USA (September 20, 2004) Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, 105, 53-64 "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 Chardon A, Cretois I, Hourseau C: Skin color typology and suntanning pathways. Int J Cosm Scie, 13, 191-208, 1991

Here, surprisingly, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, after substantial research carried out in the field of artificial coloring of the skin, the applicant is surprisingly
a) at least one depigmenting agent,
b) at least one system for shielding both UVA radiation of wavelength 320-400 nm and UVB radiation of wavelength 280-320 nm,
c) Better control of the pigmentation of the skin, in particular the dark skin, upon UV exposure, by applying to the skin surface a composition having a critical wavelength λ c of more than 370 nm, optionally including at least one scaly agent And I found that I could save better.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for controlling the browning of the skin induced by UV radiation, in particular the browning of dark skin, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
a) at least one depigmenting agent,
b) at least one system for shielding both UVA radiation of wavelength 320-400 nm and UVB radiation of wavelength 280-320 nm,
c) A method of applying to the skin surface at least one composition having a critical wavelength λ c of more than 370 nm, optionally including at least one desquamation agent.

The invention also relates to a cosmetically acceptable carrier,
a) at least one depigmenting agent,
b) at least one system for shielding both UVA radiation of wavelength 320-400 nm and UVB radiation of wavelength 280-320 nm,
c) to a composition having a critical wavelength λ c of more than 370 nm, optionally with at least one scaly agent.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" is compatible with the skin, the nails, the lips, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, has a preferred color, smell and feel and of this composition comprising such a carrier It is intended to mean a carrier that does not result in unacceptable discomfort (tear, tautness, redness) that the consumer may hesitate to use.

In the following description of the invention, the expression "system for blocking both UVA and UVB radiation" means an agent for blocking UVA radiation of wavelength 320-400 nm and UVB radiation of wavelength 280-320 nm. The agent is a mixture of several organic and / or inorganic compounds for shielding the UV radiation, such as a mixture comprising a UVA screening agent and a UVB screening agent, or of UVA radiation and UVB radiation. It consists of organic compounds to shield both.
Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the following detailed description.

The graph of FIG. 1 shows the critical wavelength λ c of the composition of Example 6 not of the present invention and the composition 7 of the present invention. The graph of FIG. 2 shows the results of quantification of pigmentation of the composition of Example 6 not of the present invention and composition 7 of the present invention. The graph in FIG. 3 shows the results of quantification of pigmentation of the composition of Example 6 not of the present invention and composition 7 of the present invention.

Depigmenting agents As depigmenting agents which can be used according to the invention, in particular vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in the applications EP 895779 and EP 524 109, vitamin CG, vitamin CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C; Aminophenol derivatives such as those described in the applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol Iminophenol derivatives such as those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, and salts or esters thereof; ferulic acid; lucinol (lucinol) and derivatives thereof; kojic acid; Resorcinol and its ester; tranexamic acid and its ester; genticin Acid, homogentisic acid, or methyl gentisate or methyl homogentisate; diacid; D-pantetheine sulfonate calcium; lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; linoleic acid and its derivatives; ceramide and its homologs; Chamomile, Aedia sativa, Aloe family (Bela, Ferrox, Barbadensis), Mulberry or Scutellaria rooticae; Fruit juice of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) sold by Gattefosse; sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B® You can mention the extract of the root of the button (Paeonia suffructicosa) such as certain products, the extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the extract of molasses sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid but it is limited to this list I will not. Examples thereof also include biphenyl compounds such as magnolol, honokiol, magnolignan and the like.

  The amount of the depigmenting agent in the composition of the present invention is preferably 0.0001 wt% to 20 wt%, more preferably 0.001 wt% to 15 wt%, still more preferably 0.001 wt% to the total weight of the composition. 8%, especially 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, more specifically 0.01% to 4%, more specifically 0.01% to 3%, even more specifically 0.01% to 2%, more specifically Is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 1% by weight.

Hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives are selected as depigmenting agents.

  The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably selected from those described in the application WO 2004/105736. These compositions have the following formula (I):

During the ceremony
R ₁ is selected from hydrogen atom, methyl group, saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -OH group, and halogen,
R ₂ is selected from hydrogen atoms, methyl groups, and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chains containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
R ₃ is selected from a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
R ₄ and R ₅ are, independently of one another, selected from hydrogen atoms, methyl groups, saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chains containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, -OH groups, or halogens.

The -OH, R ₁ , R ₄ and R ₅ groups may be in the ortho, meta or para position relative to the bond formed by the carbons linked to each other in the two aromatic nuclei.

Compounds of the invention having a substituted phenyl group and differing in R ₂ and R _{3 also} include enantiomers in the S-configuration, enantiomers in the R-configuration, or racemic mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention,
-R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₄ and R ₅ represent a hydrogen atom,
-R ₃ is a methyl group,
Compounds of formula (I) are used in which the —OH group is ortho and para to the bond formed by the carbons linked to each other in the two aromatic nuclei.

  This compound corresponds to the following formula (II)

This is known as 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene, or else phenylethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or It is also known as styryl resorcinol. This compound has CAS number 85-27-8. Such compounds are sold by Symrise under the names Symwhite 377® or Bio 377.

Photoprotective agent The composition of the present invention comprises a system for shielding both UVA radiation of wavelength 320-400 nm and UVB radiation of wavelength 280-320 nm.

  The compositions of the present invention should have a critical wavelength λ c less than 370 nm.

  Critical wavelengths are defined in particular in the publication B. L. Diffey-A method for broad spectrum classification sunscreens by B. Diffey Intern. Journ. Sci. 16 pages 47-52 [1994]. This publication describes in vitro spectrophotometry to classify photoprotective products. This characterizes the spectral homogeneity or spread of UVA radiation with respect to an index called critical length λ c. The critical wavelength is the value at which the integral of the absorbance spectrum of the shielding composition reaches 90% of the integral under the curve. This is defined as follows.

  This value characterizes the spectral spread of the UVA part independently, regardless of the level of protection of the composition. This can be easily calculated using a conventional spectrophotometer that can plot the absorbance curve of the composition of the present invention.

  The photoprotective agents present in the screening system of the present invention are selected from hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic organic and / or inorganic UV screening agents active in the UVA and / or UVB range.

  Organic UV screening agents are, in particular, cinnamic acid derivatives; anthranilic esters; salicylic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; Derivatives, in particular those described in patent document US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl (bisbenzoazolyl) derivatives described in patent documents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; Methylene bis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US Pat. No. 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0832642, EP 1027883, EP 130 0137 and DE 101 62 844; Shielding polymers and shielding silicones such as those described; Patents Application EP 0967200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 13 3981 as dimers derived from α-alkylstyrenes, such as those described in application DE 198 55 649; It is selected from merocyanine derivatives such as those described in the applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 and mixtures thereof.

UVA screening agent
1) Hydrophobic UVA screening agent Dibenzoylmethane derivative:
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trademark Parsol 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Isopropyl dibenzoyl methane,
Aminobenzophenone:
In particular n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, sold under the trademark Uvinul A + by BASF,
Anthranilic acid derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate, sold in particular under the trademark Neo Heliopan MA from Symrise,
4,4-Diaryl butadiene derivatives:
1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenyl-butadiene,
Merocyanin derivatives:
Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.

  Preferred hydrophobic UVA screening agents are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate.

2) Water soluble UVA screening agent
-Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by the name Mexoryl SX from Chimex,
Bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in patent documents EP 669 323 and US Pat. No. 2,463,264, more particularly the compound disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulphonate sold under the trademark Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer.

  The preferred water soluble UVA screening agent is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.

UVB screening agent
1) Hydrophobic UVB screening agent Paraaminobenzoic acid ester:
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (ISP Escalol 507),
Salicylic acid derivatives:
In particular homosalates sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries,
In particular ethylhexyl salicylate, sold by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan OS,
In particular, dipropylene glycol salicylate sold by Scher under the name Dipsal,
Salicylic acid TEA, sold by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan TS,
Cinnamate, in particular ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold under the trademark Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products Inc.
Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
Isoamyl methoxycinnamate, in particular sold under the trademark Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise,
Methyl cinnamic acid diisopropyl,
Sinoxate (cinnoxate),
Glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate,
β, β'-diphenyl acrylate derivatives:
In particular, octocrylene sold by BASF under the trademark Uvinul N539,
Etcrylene, sold particularly by BASF under the trademark Uvinul N35,
Benzylidene camphor derivatives:
3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SD,
Methylbenzylidene camphor, sold especially by Merck under the name Eusolex 6300
Polyacrylamide methyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SW
Triazine derivatives:
Ethylhexyl triazone, sold especially by BASF under the trademark Uvinul T150.
Diethylhexylbutamide triazone, sold in particular under the trademark Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V,
2,4,6-Tris (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4,6-Tris (diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,
2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyl-trisiloxane) -s-triazine,
Patent document US 6 225 467, application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9), or document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, New York, USA (September 20, 2004) Symmetrical triazine screening agents, in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (especially 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-) Triazines) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (these last two screening agents are described in Beiersdorf application WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06 / As described in WO 03/034992 and WO 2006/034985),
Imidazoline derivatives:
Dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline ethylhexyl propionate,
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
In particular polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trademark Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.

Preferred hydrophobic UVB screening agents are
It is selected from ethylhexyl octocrylene salicylic acid ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble UVB screening agent capable of absorbing UV radiation at 280 to 320 nm
p-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivative
PABA,
Glyceryl PABA, and
PEG-25 PABA, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul P25
In particular phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, sold by Merck under the trademark Eusolex 232,
Ferulic acid,
Salicylic acid,
Methoxycinnamic acid DEA,
Benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SL,
Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SO.

  The preferred water soluble UVB screening agent is phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid.

UVA and UVB screening agents
1) Hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agents Benzophenone derivatives:
Benzophenone-1, sold especially under the trademark Uvinul 400 by BASF,
Benzophenone-2, sold especially under the trademark Uvinul D50 by BASF,
Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold in particular under the trademark Uvinul M40 by BASF,
Benzophenone-5,
Benzophenone-6, sold in particular under the trademark Helisorb 11 by Norquay,
Benzophenone-8, sold in particular under the trademark Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid.
Benzophenone-10,
Benzophenone-11,
Benzophenone-12,
Phenyl benzotriazole derivatives:
In particular drometrizole trisiloxane, sold by Rhodia Chimie under the name Silatrizole, or manufactured by Chimex under the name Meroxyl XL,
In particular methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, sold as a fine particle aqueous dispersion, in solid form under the trademark Mixxim BB / 100 from Fairmount Chemical, or in particular under the trademark Tinosorb M from Ciba Specialty Chemicals,
Bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives:
In particular bis (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trademark Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy
Benzoxazole derivatives:
In particular, 2,4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, sold by Sigma 3V under the name Uvasorb K2A 3,5-triazine.

Preferred hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agents are
Drometrizole trisiloxane,
Methylene bis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethyl butyl phenol,
Bis (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine,
And mixtures thereof, even more preferably drometrizole trisiloxane.

2) Water soluble benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic acid group of UVA and UVB screening agents, eg
Benzophenone-4, sold by BASF under the trademark Uvinul MS40,
Benzophenone-5, and Benzophenone-9.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention:
a) At least butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably in combination with terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, as UVA screening agent
b) At least a screening system composed of octocrylene, preferably in combination with ethylhexyl salicylate, as UVB screening agent is used.

  More preferably, the shielding system is also a hydrophobic UVA selected from particulate dormetizole trisiloxane, bis (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethyl butyl phenol or mixtures thereof And UVB screening agents.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention:
a) At least n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate as a UVA screening agent,
b) at least one hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agent selected from particulate dormetizole trisiloxane, bis (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethyl butyl phenol or mixtures thereof A shielding system consisting of is used.

  According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, a screening system is used which consists of at least one organic UV screening agent and at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

Inorganic Screening Agent The inorganic UV screening agent used according to the invention is a coated or uncoated metal oxide pigment, such as titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized as a rutile and / or anatase form ), Iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide pigments. Preferably, the inorganic UV screening agent of the present invention has an average size of elementary particles of 0.5 μm or less, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5 μm, still more preferably 0.010 to 0.1 μm, still more specifically 0.015 to 0.050 μm It is a metal oxide particle which it has.

  The pigments may or may not be coated.

  Coated pigments include amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium salts of fatty acids, potassium salts, zinc salts, iron salts or aluminum salts, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene , Silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate, for example, using the compounds described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Feb. 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 It is one or more surface-treated pigments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical properties.

  As is known, silicones are variable molecular weight linear or cyclic branched or crosslinked organosilicon polymers or oligomers obtained by polymerization and / or condensation polymerization of suitably functionalized silanes, the silicon atoms of which are From the repetition of the main units which are linked together via an oxygen atom (a siloxane bond) and the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radical is directly linked to said silicon atom via a carbon atom It is essentially configured.

  The term "silicone" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular the alkylsilanes.

  The silicones used for the coating of pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from the group comprising alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicone is selected from the group comprising octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylhydrogensiloxane.

  It goes without saying that the metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof, before being treated with silicone.

The coated pigment is more particularly titanium oxide which is coated using:
-Coated with silica, such as Sunveil from Ikeda
-Coated with silica and iron oxide, such as Sunveil F product from Ikeda,
-Coated with silica and alumina, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from the company Tayca, Tioveil from Tioxide, and Mirasun TiW 60 from Rhodia,
-Alumina coated, such as Ishihara products Tipaque TTO-55 (B) and Tipaque TTO-55 (A), and Kemira UVT 14/4,
-Alumina, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from Tayca, Solavelil CT-10 W and Solavelil CT 100 from Uniqema, and Eusolex T-AVO from Merck And coated with aluminum stearate,
-Coated with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ from Tayca
-Alumina and aluminum laurate coated, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S, a product of Tayca.
-Coated with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F, a product of Tayca,
-Coated with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351 from Tayca
-Products coated with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS, manufactured by Tayca,
-Coated with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS from Titan Kogyo.
-Silica coated and treated with silicone, such as UV-Titan X 195 from Kemira.
-Alumina coated and silicone treated, such as Tipaque TTO-55 (S) from Ishihara or UV Titan M 262 from Kemira,
-Coated with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo,
-Stearic acid coated, such as Tipaque TTO-55 (C) from Ishihara
-Coated with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W from the company Tayca.

Other titanium oxide pigments treated with silicone are preferably TiO ₂ treated with octyltrimethylsilane, such as the product sold under the trademark T 805 from Degussa Silices (the average size of its elementary particles is 0.025 to 0.04 μm ) Polydimethylsiloxane-treated TiO ₂ (the average size of its elementary particles is 21 nm), such as the product sold under the trademark 70250 Cardre UF TiO ₂ Si ₃ by Cardre, a trademark from Color Techniques Anatase / rutile TiO ₂ treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, such as the product sold by Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic, the average size of its elementary particles is 25 nm.

  Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, the trademarks Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B from Tayca, the designation P 25 from Degussa, the designation Transparent titanium oxide PW from Wackher, the designation from Miyoshi Kasei It is sold under the name UFTR, from Tomen under the name ITS, from Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.

  Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name Z-Cote by Sunsmart.

The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example,
-Sold by Toshibi under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 (polymethylhydrogensiloxane coated ZnO),
Sold by Daito under the names Daitopersion ZN-30 and Daitopersion Zn-50 (cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated poly containing 30% or 50% nano-zinc oxide coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane) Dispersion in dimethyl-siloxane),
-Sold by Daikin under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO (as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane, ZnO coated with a perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl-based copolymer)
-Sold by Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z1 (silicone grafted acrylic polymer coated ZnO dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane),
-Sold by ISP under the name Escalol Z 100 (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer mixture),
Commercially available from Fuji Pigment Company under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane).

  Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Rhone Poulenc under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide.

  Metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including an equal weight mixture of silica-coated titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A, and products sold by Kemira Alumina, a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as M 261, or titanium dioxide coated with alumina, silica and glycerol (glyercol), such as product M 211 sold by the company Kemira Mention may also be made of mixtures of zinc oxide.

  The photoprotective agent is generally present in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Present in the composition of

  According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is applied to dark skin.

The term "dark skin" means the skin of a high phototyped individual's skin, ie the skin of an individual with phototypes III to VI, defined according to the Fitzpatrick's classification based on the skin's responsiveness to solar radiation effects. Intend to
I always tan but never brown
II always tans but only a little brown
III sunburns moderately and gradually turns brown
IV tans slightly and turns brown very easily
V rarely tans and is quite brown
VI never tans and is intensely pigmented

Desquamation Agent According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one desquamation agent.

The term "exfoliant" is intended to mean any compound that can act as follows.
-β-hydroxy acids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid also known as the INCI name caproyl salicylic acid); glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid Α-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as: 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene diacid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucose; cinnamic acid; safora japonica Extracts that act directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as resveratrol and some jasmonic acid derivatives,
-Or those that act on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotrypsin enzymes (SCCE) or other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin like). Aminosulfonic acid compounds, in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and derivatives thereof; derivatives of glycine-type α-amino acids (Methylglycine diacetate sodium salt described in EP-0 852 949 and sold by BASF under the trademark Trilon M); honey; mention sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine Can.

The following may be mentioned as other desquamation agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention.
-Oligofructose, EDTA and its derivatives, kelp extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glyceryl trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S-carboxy Methyl cysteine, silica-containing derivatives of salicylates such as those described in patent document EP 0 796 861, oligofucases such as those described in patent document EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylates, described in patent document EP 0 899 330 Active agent having an action on transglutaminase of
-Flower extract of Fanci cactus (ficus Opuntia indica), eg Exfolactive® from Silab,
-8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid,
-Esters of glucose and vitamin F, and
-Its mixture.

  As preferred desquamation agents, β-hydroxy acids such as 5-n-octanoyl-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); urea; glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl ) -Piperazine-l-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); extract of pomegranate; honey; N-acetylglucosamine; methylglycine diacetate sodium, and mixtures thereof.

  Even more preferentially, in the composition according to the invention, the following formula such as the commercial product Mexoryl SAB manufactured from Chimex:

5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); extract of apricot; honey; N-acetylglucosamine; Desquamation agents selected from sodium acetate and mixtures thereof are used.

  Desquamation agents are preferably 0.01% to 2% by weight, more specifically 0.05% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 0.5%, based on the total weight of the composition. It is present in an amount in the range of% by weight.

Component that Promotes Solubilization and / or Stabilization of Depigmenting Agent According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention also comprises at least one component that promotes the solubilization of said derivative and / or It contains at least one component that promotes the stabilization of the pigment.

As components which promote the solubilization of the depigmenting agent and which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of:
(i) Lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, such as, in particular, those described in patent application EP 1 269 986, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

In particular, lipophilic derivatives of amino acids which can be used have the formula
_{R '1 (CO) N (} R' 2) CH (R '3) (CH 2) n (CO) OR' 4
[In the formula,
n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2;
R ′ ₁ represents a linear or branched C ₅ -C ₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl group,
R ′ ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a C _{1 to} C ₃ alkyl group,
R ′ ₃ represents a group selected from the group formed by a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group and a linear or branched C ₃ or C ₄ alkyl group,
R ′ ₄ represents a linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₁₀ alkyl or C _{2 to} C ₁₀ alkenyl group, or a sterol residue.

Preferred lipophilic amino acid derivatives are, in particular, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate sold by Ajinomoto under the name Eldew SL 205,
(ii) lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol and 2-octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) Fatty alcohols containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms. Preferably, 2-octyldodecanol sold by Cognis under the name Eutanol G or by Sasol under the name Isofol 20 N / F is used.
(iii) Ethers such as dicaprylyl ether (CTFA name: dicaprylyl ether); or isosorbide ethers such as dimethyl isosorbide; in particular, dimethyl isosorbide sold by Uniqema under the name Arlasolve DMI,
(iv) esters such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN from Finetex); or capryl alcohol esters; in particular dicaprylyl carbonate sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol CC,
(v) Ethyl hexyl isononanoate, for example isononanoic acid derivatives such as ethyl hexyl 2-isononanoate or hexyl ethyl 2-isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, in particular Dragoxat 89 from Dragocco or Dermol 89.

Component that promotes the stabilization of the depigmenting agent According to the present invention, the expression "component that promotes the stabilization of the depigmenting agent" is, in particular, (i) to stabilize the depigmenting agent, or (ii) It is intended to mean an ingredient which makes it possible to stabilize the cosmetically acceptable medium in which said depigmenting agent is present.

  In the case of (ii) in particular, the component which promotes the stabilization of the depigmenting agent is in particular present in a particular galenical form which contributes to the stabilization of the depigmenting agent in the cosmetically acceptable medium. be able to.

As components for stabilizing the depigmenting agent that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of:
a) block polymers and / or copolymers,
b) amphiphilic lipids of the ionic or non-ionic type, which are present in the form of vesicles in the dispersion,
c) polymers as constituents of microspheres or microcapsules,
d) polymers as constituents of microparticles,
e) polymers and / or surfactants which form microemulsions,
f) polymer in thin film form,
g) Polyolefin emulsifiers having polar moieties (the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion),
h) Amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units.

(a) Block Polymers and / or Copolymers It is known practice to encapsulate lipophilic active agents in micelles of block copolymers, such as poly (ethylene oxide-propylene oxide) diblock or triblock copolymers.

  Advantageously, amphiphilic block copolymers comprising at least one non-ionic hydrophilic polymer block and at least one particular hydrophobic polymer block are used in the composition according to the invention.

  These amphiphilic block copolymers are described in patent application EP 1 555 984, which is specifically incorporated herein by reference.

  The molecular weight of the block copolymer is generally 1000 to 100000.

  In particular, the weight ratio of the ionic or nonionic hydrophilic polymer block to the hydrophobic polymer block is 1/100 to 50/1.

Hydrophobic polymer blocks, in particular,
Styrene and its derivatives such as -4-butylstyrene,
Alkylene oxides containing more than 4 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms,
-Hydrophobic vinyl monomer of the following formula (A)

[In the formula,
-R is selected from H and -CH ₃ ;
-X is selected from alkyl oxides of the -OR 'type and R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms]
It is selected from

  Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer block is obtained from one or more hydrophobic monomers selected from methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate and cyclohexyl acrylate.

In particular, the hydrophobic polymer block is polystyrene, poly (tert- butyl styrene), poly (methyl methacrylate), poly ethyl acrylate, is selected from polybutyl methacrylate, and poly (C ₃ -C ₆ alkylene oxides).

  Preferably, the non-ionic hydrophilic polymer block is selected from polyethylene oxide.

Preferably, the block copolymer is selected from the following block copolymers:
-Polystyrene / polyoxyethylene
-Polymethyl methacrylate / polyoxyethylene
-Polybutyl methacrylate / polyoxyethylene
-Polyoxyethylene / polyoxybutylene / polyoxyethylene.

(b) Amphiphilic Lipids of the Ionic or Nonionic Type According to another embodiment of the present invention, the depigmenting agent comprises a dispersion of the composition in a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular an aqueous one. As dispersions, it is combined with ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipids which are present in the form of vesicles of ionic type (for example liposomes) and / or non-ionic type (for example niosomes).

  The presence of these vesicles contributes to the stabilization of the depigmenting agent in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

  These lipid vesicles can have an aqueous or oily core.

  Preferably, lipid vesicles with an oily core are used.

  According to the invention, the term "vesicle" refers, on the one hand, to a membrane or "lipid phase" composed of one or more afferent leaflets (these leaflets being ionic Or any non-ionic amphipathic lipid based one or more biomolecule layer (s) and, on the other hand, an aqueous or oil phase encapsulated by this lipid phase It is intended to mean particulate structures. For the purposes of the present invention, liposomes and niosomes constitute in particular such vesicles.

  Niosomes are vesicles prepared from nonionic amphiphilic lipids. In particular, reference may be made to the description of patent document FR 8 907 947.

  As nonionic amphiphilic lipids, mention is made in particular of optionally oxyethylenated alkyl esters or polyalkyl esters of polyols and optionally oxyethylenated polyol ethers having a melting point of at least 40 ° C. Can.

  Liposomes are vesicles prepared from ionic amphiphilic lipids. These vesicles are particles formed from a membrane composed of one or more afferent leaflets, which are amphiphilic lipids encapsulating an aqueous or oil phase. And one or more biomolecular layers. The aqueous phase can contain a water soluble active substance, and the amphiphilic lipid biomolecular layer can contain a lipophilic active substance. These vesicles generally have an average diameter of 0.01 to 5 micrometers.

  The ionic amphiphilic lipid may be an anionic amphiphilic lipid or a cationic amphiphilic lipid.

As examples of anionic amphiphilic lipids, mention may in particular be made of:
Preferably, the alkali metal salts of dicetyl phosphate and dimyristyl phosphate, especially sodium and potassium salts, alkali metal salts of phosphatidic acid, especially sodium salts, alkali metal salts of cholesteryl sulfate, especially sodium salts, alkali metals of cholesteryl phosphate Select from salts, in particular sodium salts, and salts of lipoamino acids such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamate, more particularly the disodium salt of N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid sold under the name Acylglutamate HS21 from Ajinomoto Neutralized anionic lipids,
Amphoteric lipids, in particular pure soy phosphatidylethanolamine,
-Alkyl sulfonic acid derivatives.

  In particular quaternary ammonium salts and fatty amines, and their salts can be used as cationic amphiphilic lipids.

  Advantageously, it can penetrate into the surface layer of the skin, with the first dispersion of lipid vesicles which can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and which can treat these deep layers. Use a "dual liposome" composition for simultaneous treatment of the surface layer and the deep layer of the skin, comprising a second dispersion of lipid vesicles containing at least one active agent capable of treating these surface layers It is possible. Such a system is described in patent document EP 0 661 035.

  The depigmenting agent is preferably present in a second dispersion of lipid vesicles capable of penetrating the surface layer of the skin.

  The depigmenting agent can be combined with a dermis-targeted active agent (eg, an anti-aging active agent) present in the first dispersion of lipid vesicles capable of penetrating deep layers of skin.

  Oleosomes are oily globules dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally with a mean diameter of less than 500 nanometers, which are coated with lamellar liquid crystal.

  Reference may in particular be made to patent document EP 0 641 557 as an example of an oleosome formulation.

(c) Polymer as a Component of Microspheres or Microcapsules According to one alternative to an active agent of lipophilic nature, such as certain depigmenting agents, said active agent can be combined with small particles .

  The small particles may be solid particles comprised of a combination of said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) and at least one polymer.

  This polymer contributes to the stabilization of said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

  These small particles are mainly "spherical particles" composed of a polymer matrix in which the depigmenting agent is absorbed and / or adsorbed and / or mixed, and "microcapsules" having a core-shell type structure, ie solubilization It comprises two different systems of structure composed of a lipid core which is liquid at ambient temperature, said core being encapsulated in a continuous protective shell insoluble in the medium, containing a type of depigmenting agent.

  Preferably, microcapsules are used.

  For example, reference can be made to the description of the patent application EP 1 414 390.

  Spherical particles generally have an average size of 0.05 to 0.5 μm.

  Microcapsules are generally small to obtain optimal bioavailability of the depigmenting agent.

  Preferably, the size of these microcapsules is 0.01 to 1 μm, more particularly 0.030 to 0.5 μm.

  In particular, microcapsule type polymers as described in patent application EP-0 274 961, microcapsules coated with a layer as described in patent application EP 0 780 115, EP 1 025 901, FR-2 787 730 and EP-1 034 839, a nanocapsule in which the water-insoluble continuous polymer shell is composed of polyester, or a biodegradable microcapsule according to patent application FR-2 659 554, or a non-biodegradable according to patent application WO 93/05753 It is possible to use microcapsules.

  Microcapsules produced from biodegradable polymers penetrate the skin and degrade in the epidermis under the action of enzymes present in the skin, whereas microcapsules produced from non-biodegradable polymers are those of the stratum corneum It only penetrates the surface layer and is naturally removed during skin regeneration.

  As polymers which are constituents of microcapsules which can be used in combination with the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of the formulas (I) or (II) in the composition according to the invention, in particular poly-L- and DL-lactide and polycaprolactone, polyglycolide and copolymers thereof , Polymers obtained from the polymerization of alkyl cyanoacrylates (alkyl chains containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms); synthetic or natural water-dispersible anionic polymers; polyesters of the poly (alkylene adipate) type; dendritic polymers; Copolymers of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate, polyvinyl acetophthalate, cellulose acetophthalate, copolymers of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and cross-linked vinyl acetate, polyethylene vinyl acetate, polyacrylonitrile, poly acrylate Ruamido, polyethylene glycol, polyamide, polyethylene, polypropylene and organopolysiloxane.

  Preferably, polycaprolactone is used.

(d) Particulate Polymer as a Component According to a particular embodiment of the invention which is particularly advantageous for the care of greasy skin, a depigmenting agent is combined with the particulate polymer as a component.

  These polymers contribute to the stabilization of the said depigmenting agent in the cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition.

  The term "microparticles" especially includes "porous particles", in particular "microspheres".

  The term "porous particles" denotes particles having a structure comprising pores. The pore structure may at least partially incorporate one or more active agents into the particles.

  In particular, reference may be made to patent application EP 1 637 124.

  The structure of the particles may be of sponge-like matrix type. The structure of the particles may be vesicle-shaped, ie the particles have a lumen surrounded by porous walls. The porosity related to particle size is characterized quantitatively by their specific surface area.

Porous particles having a specific surface area of 1 m ² / g or more, measured according to the BET method, are used in particular. The BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method is a method well known to those skilled in the art. This is especially described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Volume 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area measured according to the BET method corresponds to the total specific surface area, ie the specific surface area includes the surface formed by the pores.

According to one particular embodiment, the particles of the invention have a specific surface area, in particular in the range of 2.5 to 100 m ² / g, as measured by BET.

The porous particles that can be used in the compositions of the invention are generally individualized particles. The expression "individualized particles" refers to particles that do not come together in the form of aggregates or agglomerates. These particles, particularly 0.15 g / cm ³ or more, in particular having a density in the range of 0.2-5 g / cm ^3.

  These particles preferably have a volume-average diameter of 10 μm or less. This is because such particles can penetrate the sebaceous follicles by the application of mechanical force. This mechanical force is generally obtained from a massage that provides a pumping action in the follicle in addition to pushing to exert a mechanical force. The particles can gradually reach the follicular duct, where they can absorb sebum and release, if appropriate, the active compound carried. The material as a constituent of the particles is then discarded by sebum flow and / or hair growth, thus making it possible to avoid any harmful reactions by the body that can occur to this material.

  In particular spherical porous particles having a number average dimension which can range from 0.1 to 50 μm, especially 0.1 to 20 μm, most particularly 0.5 to 10 μm are used.

  Polyamide particles produced from Nylon 6, Nylon 6-6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6-12, such as those sold under the generic name Orgasol by Atofina, in particular, can be used as preferred porous particles.

  This encapsulation system, which can target follicles, is particularly advantageous in compositions used for the treatment of oily skin.

(e) Microemulsion-Forming Polymer and / or Surfactant According to another embodiment of the present invention, the depigmenting agent comprises a polymer and / or a surfactant in the composition in the form of a microemulsion. Combined with the agent.

  These polymers and / or surfactants contribute to the stabilization of said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of the formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

  Microemulsions are generally oil-in-water emulsions in which the oil globules have a very small particle size, ie a number average dimension of less than 0.1 μm.

  In particular, reference may be made to the description of patent document EP 0 728 460.

  Microemulsions can be stabilized using lamellar liquid crystal coatings obtained by combining hydrophilic and lipophilic surfactants.

Advantageously, the particular polymer from which the microemulsion can be prepared is
Anionic polymers of hydrophobic chains as described in patent document EP 116 005; and / or
It can be chosen from the water-soluble nonionic polymers described in patent document EP 1 172 077.

  Specific surfactants with which nanoemulsions can be prepared are, in particular, mixtures of nonionic surfactants and ionic surfactants, as described in patent document EP 1 353 629, which is hereby incorporated by reference. It may be a ternary surfactant.

  In particular, the anionic polymers of hydrophobic chains are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbonized containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, alicyclic divalent radicals and aromatic divalent radicals. It comprises a hydrophobic chain selected from hydrogen-based chains, preferably selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkylene, methylene dicyclohexyl, isophorone and phenylene chains.

  The anionic polymer is in particular selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the anionic polymer is (a) a monomer selected from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid (monomer a ′) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (monomer a ′ ′) Non surface-active ethylenically unsaturated monomers, (b) Monomers different from (a) and / or ethylenically unsaturated monomers, (c) α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated acrylic monomers or monoethylenically unsaturated isocyanate monomers It is obtained by the copolymerization of monomers derived from the reaction of a monobasic non-ionic amphiphilic component or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

  Advantageously, the anionic polymer is (a) an α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) a non-surfactant ethylenically unsaturated monomer different from (a), and (c) a monovalent nonionic Is an acrylic terpolymer obtained from a nonionic urethane monomer which is a reaction product of a polar amphiphilic compound and a monoethylenically unsaturated isocyanate.

For example, anionic polymers can be acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymers, acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, (meth) acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymers, acrylic acid / oxy oxylated Ethylenated (20 EO) monocetyl itaconate copolymer, acrylic acid / oxyethylenated (20 EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymer, acrylate / polyoxyethylenated (25 EO) acrylate copolymer modified with C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alcohol, methacrylic It is selected from acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyldimethyl-meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, water soluble nonionic polymers are ethylene oxide homopolymers and copolymers; polyvinyl alcohols; vinyl pyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers; vinylcaprolactam homopolymers and copolymers; polyvinyl methyl ether homopolymers and copolymers; natural acrylic homopolymers and copolymers; It can be selected from _1- C ₂ -alkyl-celluloses and their derivatives; C ₁ -C ₃ -alkyl-guar or C ₁ -C ₃ -hydroxyalkyl-guar.

The ternary surfactant system can in particular comprise:
(a) at least two nonionic surfactants, including at least one ethoxylated fatty ester comprising 8 to 100 (especially 10 to 80, more preferably 40) ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty acid ester of sorbitan Mixtures of agents; and
(b) at least one ionic surfactant selected from alkali metal salts of cetyl phosphate and alkali metal salts of palmitoyl sarcosine.

  The ethoxylated fatty ester is preferably polyethylene glycol 40 EO stearate, and the fatty acid ester of sorbitan is preferably sorbitan tristearate.

  The ionic surfactant is chosen in particular from potassium cetyl phosphate and palmitoyl sarcosine sodium, and mixtures thereof.

(f) Polymer in the form of a thin film According to another embodiment of the present invention, said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) is at least one water soluble or water dispersible polymer in the form of a thin film Combined with

  Thus, the composition is in the form of a thin film.

  The water soluble or dispersible polymer contributes to the stabilization of the depigmenting agent in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

As used herein, the term "membrane" is intended to mean a thin solid that can be manipulated. The term "thin" is intended to refer to a solid having a maximum thickness of 1000 μm. The membrane is generally of a suitable size such that it can be easily manipulated by the user. The membrane may be square, rectangular or disc-shaped or may have any other shape. Each film generally has a thickness of 10 μm to 1000 μm, preferably 20 to 500 μm, more preferably 50 to 300 μm. The membrane can have a surface area of 0.25 to 25 cm < ² >, preferably ² to 10 cm < ² >.

  These films generally contain less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight water, based on the total weight of the film, but more preferably do not contain water.

  Such membranes are described in patent application EP 1 588 694, which is incorporated herein by reference.

  The thin film comprises a water soluble or water dispersible polymer which may be selected from: (1) Wheat or soy protein; keratin, such as keratin hydrolysate and sulfone keratin; casein; albumin; collagen; glutelin; glucagon; gluten; gluten; zein; polymers of the protein type such as gelatin and its derivatives; Polymers derived from chitin or chitosan, such as cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; (3) in particular (i) cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose , Carboxymethylcellulose and quaternized cellulose derivatives; and (ii) polysaccharide polymers such as starch and its derivatives; (4) polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and their coporates Acrylic polymers or copolymers such as mer; (5) polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymer of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and caprolactam, polyvinyl alcohol etc. (6) Gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates, carrageenan, ulvane and other algal colloids; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, shellac, Optionally modified naturally occurring polymers such as sandarac gum, damar resin, elemi gum, copal resin; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid or chondroitin sulfate; Mixtures of these polymers.

  The water-soluble polymers can also include caprolactam, pullulan, pectin, mannan and galactomannan, glucomannan and its derivatives.

  Preferably, the water soluble polymer may be a cellulose polymer, in particular hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, or an alginate, in particular sodium alginate.

As examples of specific emulsifiers, mention may in particular be made of:
-Polyolefin emulsifier with polar part in water-in-oil emulsion,
Amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units in an oil-in-water emulsion.

g) Polyolefin Emulsifier Having a Polar Part The polyolefin having a polar part contributes to the stabilization of said depigmenting agent in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

  The polyolefins having polar moieties used in the compositions of the present invention are generally composed of polyolefinic nonpolar moieties and at least one polar moiety. The polyolefinic nonpolar moiety comprises at least 40 carbon atoms, preferably 60 to 700 carbon atoms. The nonpolar portion is ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, isobutene, 1-pentene, 2-methyl-1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1-octene, 1- It can be selected from polyolefins such as oligomers, polymers and / or copolymers of decene, 1-undecene, 1-dodecene, 1-tridecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-pentadecene, 1-hexadecene, 1-heptadecene and 1-octadecene . These polyolefins are hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated.

  The polar part of the polyolefin having a polar part may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric. The polar part is composed, for example, of a polyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene) glycol or polyalkyleneimine, or a carboxylic acid or a dicarboxylic acid, or an ester thereof, an amide or a salt thereof or a derivative thereof such as a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof Ru. Polyolefins having carboxylic acid polar moieties include polyolefins such as succinic acid or anhydride, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid (or methylmaleic acid), mesaconic acid (or methylfumaric acid) and Aconitic acid, as well as its ester or amide derivative, as well as mixtures thereof, can be obtained from the reaction with at least one carboxylic acid or anhydride, optionally completely or partially salified, selected from the group comprising .

  Preferably, the polar part of the polyolefin is polyoxyethylene, succinic acid or anhydride, ester or amide of succinic acid or anhydride, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or organic salt of succinic acid or anhydride, or succinic acid or It is selected from the group comprising anhydride monoesters or partial salts of monoamides.

  Polyolefins having polar moieties, which are preferred in the composition according to the invention, are those having optionally modified succinic acid end groups as described in patent document EP 1 172 089, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

  As polyolefins having succinic acid end groups, in particular, polyisobutylenes having esterified (especially esterified with diethanolamine) succinic acid end groups, which are optionally modified, and salts thereof, in particular the Lubrizol name from Lubrizol ( Mention may be made of diethanolamine salts such as the products sold under the registered trademark 2724, Lubrizol® 2722 and Lubrizol® 5603.

  Another particularly preferred polyolefin having a polar moiety is the ester of poly (diethanolaminoethyl isobutenyl succinate) and triethanolamine. This product is for example sold by the company Chemron under the name Chemcinnate® 2000.

  It is also possible to use poly (glyceryl isobutenyl succinate) esters, in particular the products sold by the company Chemron under the name Chemcinnate® 1000 AF, as polyolefins having a polar part.

h) Amphiphilic Polymers Containing AMPS Units According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and at least one hydroxyl of the formula (I) or (II) And at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) units.

  The amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units is characterized in that the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition is used. Contributing to stabilization.

  As amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application EP 1 466 587.

Preferred amphiphilic polymer, and AMPS, particular mention may be made of copolymers of oxyethylenated C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl methacrylates containing 7 to 23 oxyethylenated groups.

  The component that promotes the solubilization of the depigmenting agent and / or the component that promotes the stabilization according to the present invention is generally 0.01 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition %, More preferably 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, more specifically 0.1 wt% to 5 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Galenical Forms The compositions of the invention as defined above may be any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application, especially aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / W). O) or dispersion of fatty phase in aqueous phase with polymer microparticles such as triple (W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, aqueous gels or microspheres and microcapsules, or ionic It may be in the form of lipid vesicles, microemulsions or thin films of the (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes) and / or of the non-ionic type.

  These compositions are prepared according to a conventional method.

  Furthermore, the composition used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a cosmetic fluid, a paste or a foam. The composition can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. The composition may be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

Oil Phase If the composition used according to the invention comprises an oil phase, said phase preferably contains at least one oil. The phase can also contain other fatty substances.

As oil which can be used in the composition of this invention, the following can be mentioned, for example.
-Hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,
Liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides (triglyeride), or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, Apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 Hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as jojoba oil, shea butter oil,
In particular synthetic esters of fatty acids and ethers, such as pure serine oil, for example of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ represents residues of fatty acids containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms , R ₂ represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms), an oil of isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl stearate Dodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoic acid esters of fatty alcohols, octanoate esters and Hydroxylated esters such as decanoic acid esters; propylene dioctanoate And pentaerythritol esters such as tetra-isostearate pentaerythrityl; calls, polyol esters such as diheptanoate neopentyl glycol and Jiisononan diethylene
-Linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffin and its derivatives, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as petroleum jelly, polydecene, pearl cream oil, etc.
8 to 26 of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol Fatty alcohol containing carbon atoms,
Partially hydrocarbon based and / or silicone based fluoro oils, such as those described in patent document JP-A-2-295 912,
Silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing linear or cyclic silicone chains which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane ( Cyclomethicone); polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms and which are pendant or end of the silicone chain; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl Trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl-trimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane,
-As well as their mixtures.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the above list of oils is intended to mean mainly any oil containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups .

Other fatty substances which can be present in the oil phase are, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnanes Uva wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, polyethylene wax, synthetic wax such as Fischer-Tropsch wax; trifluoromethyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl dimethicone and trifluoro Silicone resins such as propyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG from Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX from Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil from Grant Industries.

  These fatty substances can be selected in various ways by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, such as consistency and texture properties.

Emulsion According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion may range from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier, selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers and optionally a coemulsifier, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifier is suitably chosen according to the emulsion (W / O or O / W) to be obtained. The emulsifier and co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  For W / O emulsions, as emulsifiers, for example dimethicone copolyols such as mixtures of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols sold under the name DC 5225 C from Dow Corning, and under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning. Mention may be made of the lauryl methicone copolyols sold and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as cetyl dimethicone copolyols sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Abil EM 90R. As surfactants of W / O emulsions those obtained according to the procedure of examples 3, 4 and 8 of patent document US-A-5 412 004 and examples of patent document US-A-5 811 487, in particular patent document US Cross-linked elastomeric properties comprising at least one oxyalkylated group, such as the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of 412-004 and the product sold by Shin Etsu under the reference KSG 21. Solid organopolysiloxanes can also be used.

  For O / W emulsions, as emulsifiers, for example oxyalkylenated glycerol (more specifically polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or / or Oxypropyleneified) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropyleneified) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate Nonionic emulsifiers, such as mixtures thereof, can be mentioned.

Additives The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention can be prepared in a known manner by means of hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyes, plant extracts, salts. Auxiliary agents customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as antioxidants, bases, acids, or nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants, can also be contained.

  The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants can, depending on their nature, be introduced into the fatty phase, the aqueous phase and / or the lipid vesicles.

  As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carbopol, rubigel, hostaselin AMPS, Simulgel products, Sepigel products, xanthan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum, alginates, and mixtures thereof. Hectorite can also be mentioned.

  The compositions of the invention can be applied directly to the skin, or can be applied to an occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic or dermatological support intended for topical application to the skin.

  The support may be an "occlusive" support. For example, the support is comprised of a high density and low density polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, ethylene / vinyl acetate copolymer, thermoplastic material selected from polyester and polyurethane, or a composite of such materials. These materials can also be present in layered form using at least one metal foil, such as an aluminum foil.

  The support layer may be of any suitable thickness that provides the desired support and protective function. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer can follow the contours of the skin completely and is sufficiently flexible so that the user does not feel any discomfort.

  However, preferably, the support is "non-occlusive". The latter hypothesis preferably uses a support composed of paper, a porous or porous thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a non-woven fabric or a porous non-woven fabric.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, said composition according to the invention is, for example, a further active agent intended to cope with the signs of aging of the skin, or a further composition intended to cope with oily skin. It can be combined with a composition for oral administration containing further cosmetic active agents having a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin, such as active agents.

  The further components used in the composition according to the invention may be cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients and / or active agents, in particular ingredients and / or active agents which are beneficial to the appearance and / or texture of the skin.

Filler The composition of the present invention can comprise at least one filler.

  The term "filler" should be understood to mean any form of inorganic or synthetic particles insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced, colorless or white. These fillers in particular serve to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

  The fillers may be of any inorganic or organic form, platelet-like, spherical or rectangular, regardless of the crystallographic form (eg, layer, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon (registered trademark)) powder (Orgasol (registered trademark) of Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon (registered trademark)) powder, Hollow polymer microspheres such as lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polyvinylidene chloride / -acrylonitrile microspheres, eg Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) And silicone resin microbeads (eg Toshiba Tospearls®), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos) )), Glass or ceramic my Bolacaps, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or myristic acid Magnesium can be mentioned.

  The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one matting filler, soft focus filler, fluorescer, polishing or exfoliating filler, and mixtures thereof.

Matte Fillers For the purposes of the present invention, the term "matt fillers" means spherical or non-spherical porous or non-spherical having a refractive index of 2.2 or less, in particular 2 or less, in particular 1.8 or less, preferably 1.3 to 1.6. Show porous particles. The "matt fillers" according to the invention have a volume dimension which corresponds to the volume dimension of the pearlescent agent used. The preferred size of the filler is therefore less than 15 μm, as measured with a laser particle size analyzer, eg Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern or BI90 + from Brookhaven Instruments Corporation.

  In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the "matt filler" is spherical.

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the "matt filler" is porous. In this case, the specific surface area of the particles that can be related to porosity is more than 10 m ² / g, preferably more than 50 m ² / g.

Matting Test The matting properties of the fillers of the invention are defined using gonioflectometer measurements. To do this, the composition containing 5% of the filler is spread on a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24 / 5-250 cm ² sold by Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader (Wet thickness 30 μm). The composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37 ° C. and the reflection is then measured using a gonioflectometer. The obtained result is taken as the ratio R of specular reflection and diffuse reflection. The R value decreases in proportion to the height of the matting effect. The matting fillers according to the invention are those which give an R value of less than 1, preferably less than 0.75, at a content of 5% in the cosmetic composition.

  The matting effect of the agents and / or compositions containing matting fillers can be assessed by measuring the ratio R of specular to diffuse reflection, in particular using a gonioflectometer. In general, an R value of 2 or less reflects the matting effect.

  Matting fillers, in particular rice starch or corn starch, kaolinite, talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamide fibers, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powder, silica powder, polytetrafluoroethylene Ethylene powder, silicone resin powder, acrylic polymer powder, wax powder, polyethylene powder, powder of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powder, amorphous mixed silica powder , Silica particles, in particular mixed silica particles, and mixtures thereof.

  The matting agents are in particular rice starch or corn starch, kaolinite, talc, pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microbeads, plant fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamide fibers, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, polyamide powder, silica powder, polytetrafluoroethylene Ethylene powder, silicone resin powder, acrylic polymer powder, wax powder, polyethylene powder, powder of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powder, amorphous mixed silica powder , Silica particles, in particular mixed silica particles, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of matting agents that may especially be listed include:
Rice or corn starch, in particular aluminum starch octenyl succinate, sold under the name Dry Flo® by National Starch;
-Kaolinite,
-silica,
-talc,
-Pumpkin seed extract sold by Indena under the name Curbilene®,
-Cellulose microbeads according to patent application EP 1 562 562,
-Silk fibers, cotton fibers, wool fibers, flax fibers, in particular cellulose fibers extracted from trees, vegetables or algae, polyamide fibers (Nylon®), modified cellulose fibers, poly-p-phenylene terephthamide Fiber, acrylic fiber, polyolefin fiber, glass fiber, silica fiber, aramid fiber, carbon fiber, Teflon (registered trademark) fiber, insoluble collagen fiber, polyester fiber, polyvinyl chloride or polyvinylidene chloride fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber And fibers such as chitosan fibers, polyurethane fibers, polyethylene phthalate fibers, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, absorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof as described in patent application EP 1 151 742,
Expandable acrylic copolymer microspheres, such as those sold under the name Expancel 551® by EXPANCEL.
Fillers with optical action according to patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular:
Polyamide powder (Nylon®), eg Orgasol-type Nylon 12 particles having an average dimension of 10 microns of Arkema and a refractive index of 1.54.
Silica powders, eg Silica beads SB 150 with an average dimension of 5 microns of Miyoshi and a refractive index of 1.45,
-Polytetrafluoroethylene powder, eg PTFE Ceridust 9205 F, with an average dimension of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.36 of Clariant,
-A silicone resin powder, for example a silicone resin Tospearl 145A, having an average dimension of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41 of GE Silicone,
-Acrylic copolymer powders, in particular of polymethyl (meth) acrylate, eg PMMA particles Jurymer MBI with an average dimension 8 microns and refractive index 1.49 of Nihon Junyoki, or Micropearl M100® and F 80 ED (Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku) Registered particles),
Wax powder, eg paraffin wax particles Microease 114S, having an average dimension 7 microns of Micropowders and a refractive index of 1.54,
-Polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, in particular composed of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers, such as particles of Sumitomo's particle Flobeads EA 209 (with an average size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.48),
Elastomeric cross-linked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, in particular silsesquioxane resins, as described, for example, in patent document US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomeric powders are sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105,
Talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powder, such as that sold under the name Coverleaf® AR-80 from Catalyst & Chemicals.
-Its mixture,
Compounds which absorb and / or adsorb sebum as described in patent application FR 2 869 796. In particular, the following can be mentioned.
Silica powders, for example porous silica microspheres sold by the company Myoshi under the name Silica Beads SB-700, the products Sunsphere® H51, Sunsphere® H33 and Sunsphere (commercially available from Asahi Glass) Registered trademark H53; Amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold by Asahi Glass under the names SA Sunsphere® H-33 and SA Sunsphere® H-53,
-Amorphous mixed silicic acid powder, in particular of aluminum and magnesium, for example the product sold under the name Neusilin UFL2 by Sumitomo,
-Polyamide (Nylon (R)) powder, such as Orgasol (R) 4000 sold by Arkema, as well as
-In particular polymethyl methacrylate acrylic polymer powders, eg Covabead® LH 85 sold by Wackherr; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate acrylic polymer powders, eg Dow Corning 5640 sold by Dow Corning Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber, or Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 sold by Ganz Chemical Company; acrylic polymer powder of polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, eg Poly- sold by Amcol Pore® L200 or Poly-Pore® E200; acrylic polymer powder of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, for example Polytrap® 6603 sold by Dow Corning
-Silicate particles such as alumina silicate,
Mixed silica particles, eg
-Saponite, or magnesium aluminum silicate particles, such as magnesium aluminum silicate hydrated with sodium sulfate, sold under the trademark Sumecton® by Kunimine,
-Magnesium silicate, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, mallow oil and phospholipid complex or Lucas Meyer's Matipure®, and
-Its mixture.

  Preferred matting agents which can be used according to the invention include pumpkin seed extract, rice or corn starch, kaolinite, silica, talc, polyamide powder, polyethylene powder, acrylic copolymer powder, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads and blends Silica particles, as well as mixtures thereof, are included.

Fillers with Soft Focus Effect These fillers may be any material that can correct wrinkles and hide wrinkles due to their inherent physical properties. These fillers can correct wrinkles, in particular by means of tensioning, covering or soft-focusing.

Examples of fillers that may be mentioned include the following compounds:
-Porous silica microparticles, eg Silica beads ® SB 150 and SB 700 with an average dimension of 5 μm of Miyoshi; Sunspheres ® H series of Asahi Glass, eg Sunspheres H 33, H 51, each of size 3.5 μm, 5 μm
Hemispherical hollow silicone resin particles, in particular those described in EP-A-1 579 849, such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat,
Silicone resin powder, for example the silicone resin Tospearl® 145A of average size 4.5 μm of GE Silicone,
-Acrylic copolymer powders, in particular of polymethyl (meth) acrylates, eg PMMA particles Jurimer MBI® with an average dimension of 8 μm by Nihon Junyoki, hollow PMMA spheres sold by Wackherr under the name Covabead® LH 85, and Vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate expanded microspheres sold under the name Expancel®,
Wax powders, eg paraffin wax particles MicroEase® 114 S of average size 7 μm of MicroPowders,
-A polyethylene powder, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example, Flobeads ® EA 209 E with an average dimension of 10 μm of Sumitomo,
-Name of Shin-Etsu KSP-100 (registered trademark), KSP-101 (registered trademark), KSP-102 (registered trademark), KSP-103 (registered trademark), KSP-104 (registered trademark) and KSP-105 Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with a silicone resin, in particular a silsesquioxane resin, of
-Talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, such as, for example, those sold by Catalyst & Chemical under the name Coverleaf AR-80®.
-Talc, mica, kaolin, laurylglycine, starch powder crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium sulfate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, Cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules,
-Silk fibers, cotton fibers, wool fibers, flax fibers, in particular cellulose fibers extracted from trees, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®) fibers, modified cellulose fibers, poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide fibers, acrylics Fiber, polyolefin fiber, glass fiber, silica fiber, aramid fiber, carbon fiber, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon (registered trademark)) fiber, insoluble collagen fiber, polyester fiber, polyvinyl chloride fiber, polyvinylidene chloride fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber Hydrophilic or hydrophobic synthesis of polyacrylonitrile fiber, chitosan fiber, polyurethane fiber, polyethylene phthalate fiber, fiber formed from a mixture of polymers, absorbable synthetic fiber, and a mixture thereof as described in patent application EP 1 151 742 Or natural inorganic or organic fibers,
Spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones, such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506C® from Dow Corning,
Polishing silica microrelief by mechanical action, polishing silica, such as Abrasif SP® from Semanez, or a powder of nuts or shells (for example, apricot of Cosmetochem or powder of walnuts) Polishing filler.

  Fillers having an action on signs of aging are, in particular, porous silica fine particles, hemispherical hollow silicone particles, silicone resin powder, acrylic copolymer powder, polyethylene powder, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / Alumina / silica composite powder, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogencarbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silk or cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof Be done.

  The filler may be a soft focus filler.

  The term "soft focus" filler means a filler that further imparts transparency and blurring to complexions. Preferably, the "soft focus" fillers have an average particle size of 15 microns or less. These particles may be in any form, in particular spherical or non-spherical. These fillers are more preferably non-spherical.

“Soft focus” fillers are silica and silicic acid powders, in particular alumina powders, powders of the polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica / TiO ₂ or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, It can be selected from styrene / acrylic copolymer powders and silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

  In particular, talc having a number average dimension of 3 microns or less, such as talc having a number average dimension of 1.8 microns, in particular the product sold under the trademark Talc P3® from Nippon Talc, Nylon® 12 powder, in particular Atochem Products sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos®, products sold by Degussa, etc., with 1% to 2% surface-treated silica particles with mineral wax (INCI name: hydrated silica) (And) paraffins, eg amorphous silica microspheres such as the product with the reference H-53® sold by Asahi Glass under the name Sunsphere, and the name SB-700® from Miyoshi Or silica microbeads such as those sold under SB-150®, but not limited to this list.

  The concentration of these fillers having an effect on signs of aging in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. .

Abrasive Fillers or Release Agents Examples that may be listed as release agents that can be used in the cleaning composition of the invention include release agents or scrub particles of inorganic, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, polyethylene beads or powders, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice powder, ground apricot kernels or walnut shells, sawdust, glass beads and alumina, and mixtures thereof can be used.

  Mention may be made of Solabia's Exfogreen® (bamboo extract), strawberry crown extract (Strawberry Akenes from Greentech), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally cranberry kernel powder in the field of abrasive plant powders. It can be mentioned.

  Preferred abrasive fillers or release agents of the invention include peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry crown extract and bamboo extract.

  The further filler used in the composition according to the invention is preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 15%, and still more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be.

Cosmetic or Dermatological Active Agents The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents.

  The additional active agents stimulate the synthesis of moisturizers, agents which improve the barrier function, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycemic agents, macromolecules of the dermis and / or epidermis and in particular And / or agents that prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and / or keratinocyte differentiation, agents that promote stratum corneum envelope maturation, NO synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptors (PBR) Antagonists, Agents that increase sebaceous gland activity, Agents that stimulate energy metabolism of cells, Tightening agents, Fat restructuring agents, Slimming agents, Agents that promote capillary circulation of skin, Sedatives and / or anti-irritants It may be selected from sebo-regulator or antiseborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrising agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents.

  The person skilled in the art will select said active agent as a function of the desired action for skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows.

  It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that this or these optional additional compounds, and / or the amount thereof, that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition of the invention are not impaired by the additions envisaged, or substantially It will be carefully selected so as not to be lost.

  For care and / or makeup of aged skin, the person skilled in the art preferably prefers moisturizers, agents to improve the barrier function, antioxidants, anti-shrinkage agents, anti-glycemic agents, macromolecules of the dermis and / or epidermis. Agents that stimulate synthesis and / or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and / or keratinocyte differentiation, agents that promote keratinocyte maturation, NO synthase inhibitors, peripheral At least a drug selected from benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents that increase sebaceous gland activity, agents that stimulate cellular energy metabolism, fat reconstitution agents, and agents that promote capillary blood circulation in the peripheral area of the eye One activator will be selected.

  For greasy skin care and / or makeup, the person skilled in the art will select at least one active agent, preferably selected from seborrhea control agents or antiseborrhoea agents, and astringents.

  For skin care and / or makeup prone to acne, one skilled in the art will select at least one active agent, preferably selected from anti-acne agents, scar healing agents and anti-inflammatory agents.

  For body lean care, one skilled in the art will select an active agent preferably selected from a slime active agent and an active agent that promotes capillary circulation of the skin.

  Examples of such compounds are described below.

1. Humectants or Humectants Humectants or humectants which may be mentioned in particular include glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives thereof, in particular Hydrovance®, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA sold by National Starch. , BHA, sodium pydroate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, extract of Imperata cylindra sold by Sederma under the name Moist 24®. Acrylic acid homopolymers, for example Lipidure-HM® of NOF Corporation, β-glucan, especially carboxymethyl β-glucan sodium of Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®, Mixture of passion flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil; patented Active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in WO 02/051 828, in particular the product sold under the trade name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight; oil of muskrose sold by Nestle; sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®, to zinc An extract of a rich microalga tinolemo (Prophyridium cruentum); collagen of marine origin (atecollagen) and chondroitin sulfate sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres such as that sold by Engelhard Lyon Hyaluronic acid spheres are included.

  The humectants preferably used are urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance®, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, acrylic acid homopolymers sold by National Starch, for example Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation. , Β-glucan, especially carboxymethyl β-glucan sodium of Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids®; patent application Active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in WO 02/051 828, in particular the product sold under the trade name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight; oil of muskrose sold by Nestle; name from Algualane Z from Vincience Zinc-enriched microalgal tinolimo extract sold by inc®; Marine origin collagen (athercollagen) and chondroitin spheres sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; Engelhard Lyon It is selected from hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company. Another humectant may be a glycol polymer of polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene structure, such as Wildbride S 753 L of NOF Corporation, I.

2. Agents that improve barrier function As agents that improve barrier function, in particular, arginine, serine, extracts of extreme thermophiles (Thermus thermophilus) such as Sederma's Venuceane (registered trademark), Active Organics' Actigen Y (registered trademark) A natural mulberry rhizome (Dioscorea villosa) extract, plankton extract such as Omega Plankton® from Secma, yeast extract such as Relipidium® from Coletica, chestnut extract such as Recoverine from Silab, Gattefosse Cedar bud extract such as Gatuline Zen®, sphingosine, eg salicyloyl sphingosine, xylitol, polyxylityl glycoside and xylitan sold under the name Phytosphingosine® SLC from Degussa Mixtures of for example Aquapyl® of SEPPIC, extracts of solanaceous plants, such as Lipidessence® of Coletica, musk Mention may be made of omega-3 unsaturated oils such as ra oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

  Also in particular, ceramide or derivatives thereof, in particular ceramide 2 (for example N-oleoyl dihydrosphingosine), ceramide 3 (for example the INCI name stearoyl 4-hydroxysphenanine) and ceramide 5 (for example N-2-hydroxypalmitoyl dihydro) Sphingosine, INCI name: having hydroxypalmytolysin fingerin), sphingoid compounds, sphingoglycolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, phytosterol, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, vaseline, lanolin, Mention may be made of shea butter, cocoa butter and PCA salts.

  Preferred agents having a reconstituting action on the barrier function include extracts of hyperthermophilic bacteria, rhizome extracts of natural persimmon, yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract, arginine, serine, ceramide, especially ceramides 3 and 5 As well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, serine, arginine or mixtures thereof are used.

3. Antioxidants In particular, tocopherol and esters thereof, especially tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenol, tannin, tannic acid, epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyan, rosemary extract, Olive leaf extract such as that of Silab, green tea extract, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothioneine, N-acetylcysteine, extract of brown algae Pervetia canaliculata such as Pelvetiane (registered trademark) of Secma, chlorogenic acid, Biotin, chelating agents such as BHT and BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and salts thereof; idebenone, plant extracts such as Provalen's Pronalen BioprotectTM; coenzyme Q10 , Bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, li Gnan, melatonin, pironate, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, TotarolTM or Totarol (Totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenanthrinol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9 , An extract of Podocarpus totara (Podocarpus totara) containing 10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1- (1-methylethyl)-; a product sold by Silab under the name Helisun®, etc. Extract of Jasmine; Hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG® from Engelhard Lyon; extract of the root of a button (Paeonia suffruticosa) such as the product sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B® from Ichimaru Pharcos; Examples include litchi extract such as litchi peel extract sold by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704®, and pomegranate (Punica granatum) extract such as a product sold by Draco Natural Products. .

  Other anti-aging agents that may be mentioned include DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extract, carotenoids (β-carotene, zeaxanthin and lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives and jasmonic acid.

  Particularly preferred antioxidants used are: ferulic acid; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) -ethylenediamine and salts thereof Chelating agents, such as caprylyl glycol, Totarol®, jasmine extract such as the product sold under the name Helisun® by Silab; Hesperitin laurate such as Engelhard Lyon's Flavagrum PEG®; Ichimaru Pharcos Contains a root extract of a button, such as the product sold by the company under the name Botanpi Liquid B®.

4. Dermo-relaxing agents or anti-skin contraction agents Examples which may be mentioned include manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and salts thereof, glycine, of Iris pallida Extracts, hexapeptides (Argeriline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins, such as, for example, natural salmon and carbonylamine as described in patent application EP 1 484 052 are included. Examples of sapogenins which may be mentioned are those described in patent application WO 02/47650, in particular natural moss, in particular diosgenin extracted from oysters, or one or more sapogenins (natural rhizome, rhizome leaves containing hecogenin and tigogenin, An extract of a plant of the family Liliaceae, more specifically any extract naturally containing or after treatment Yuka or Kusatsugi or sarsaparilla containing smilagenin and sarsapogenin, or Actigen Y from Active Organics Or ginger is included.

  Mention may also be made of DMAE (dimethyl MEA), sea fennel, rockrose, heliclysam, aniseed, extracts of paracress, and extracts of Acmella oleracea, for example Gatuline® from Gattefosse.

  Preferred skin relaxants listed include adenosine, manganese gluconate, natural lupus, seafennel, glycine and alverine.

5. Anti-Saccharifying Agent The term "anti-glycating agent" means a compound that prevents and / or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins such as collagen.

  Among the anti-glycation agents that may be mentioned in particular are botanical extracts of the azalea (Ericacea) family, such as blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) or bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) extracts, eg the name Blueberry Herbasol Extract PG from Cosmetochem Products sold, ergothioneine and its derivatives, resveratrol and hydroxystilbene and its derivatives such as 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these antiglycation agents are disclosed in patent application FR 2 802 425, respectively) FR2 810 548, FR2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420), dihydroxystilbene and derivatives thereof, polypeptides of arginine and lysine, such as the product sold under the name Amadorine® by Solabia, calcinin hydrochloride (Sold by Exsymol under the name Austin®), sunflower (Helianthus ann) uus extract, eg, Wine extract such as Antiglyskin® from Silab, powdered white wine extract on maltodextrin support sold by Givaudan under the name Vin blanc deshydrate 2F, thioctic acid (or α- Included are mixtures of lipoic acid), eucalyptus and extracts of marine glycogen, such as Aglycal LS 8777® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques, and black tea extract, such as Kombuchka® from Sederma, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferred anti-glycation agents listed include blueberry (bilberry) extract and black tea extract.

6. Agents which stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis and / or epidermis and / or prevent their degradation Among the active agents which stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis or which prevent their degradation, Mention may be made of those acting against.
-Extract of C. (Centella asiatica), asiaticoside and its derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; Iamin (iamin), biopeptides CL or synthetic peptides such as palmitoyl oligopeptides sold by the company Sederma; from Coletica Peptides extracted from plants, such as soy hydrolysate, sold under the trademark Phytokine®; rice peptides, such as Nutripeptide® from Silab, Algisium C®, sold from Exsymol, etc. Methylsilanol mannuronate; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and extracts of Medica sativa (Alfalfa), such as the products sold under the name Vitanol® by Silab; Name Nuteline C from Solabia Hazelnut peptides such as products sold under As well as those acting on collagen synthesis, such as arginine;
-Or agents that act to inhibit collagen degradation, particularly agents that act as inhibitors of metalloproteases (MMPs), more specifically MMPs 1, 2, 3 and 9, etc. The following can be mentioned. Retinoids and derivatives, extracts of sorghum palmata such as Vitanol® from Silab, extracts, oligopeptides and lipopeptides of Aphanizomenon flosaquae (blue algae) sold under the name Lanablue® from Atrium Biotechnologies Peptides, lipoamino acids, malt extracts sold under the trademark Collalift® by Coletica; blueberries or rosemary extracts; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (eg Ichimaru) Red clover extract, flax extract or soda extract; sold by Pharcos under the trademark Flavosterone SB (registered trademark); litchi peel extract sold by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704 (registered trademark) Lychee extract; sold by SEPPIC under the name Sepilift DPHP (registered trademark) Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline: extract of Moringa such as Baccharis genistelloides or Baccharine sold by Silab, Arganyl LS 9781® from Cognis; as described in patent application FR-A-2 812 544 Bilberry extract, such as that described in the patent application FR-A-2 814 950, of the sage extract (Salvia officinalis from Flacksmann), rhododendron extract, blueberry extract and
-Alternatively, retinol and derivatives, in particular retinyl palmitate; extracts of Saccharomyces cerevisiae sold under the trademark Cytovitin® by LSN; and sold under the trademark Kelpadelie® by Secma For the synthesis of molecules belonging to the elastin family (elastin and fibrillin), such as extracts of the alga Macrocystis pyrifera; products sold by Solabia under the trademark Nuteline C®, etc. and hazelnut peptide extracts What works
-Or alternatively a peptide extract of pea (Pisum sativum) seed sold by LSN under the trademark Parelastyl (R); heparinoid; and N- [N-acetyl, N '-(3-trifluoromethyl) phenylvalyl {2- [acetyl (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) amino]-, also known as glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valylglycine or acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine N-acylaminoamides as described in patent application WO 01/94381, such as 3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, or esters thereof with C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols; rice peptide extracts, such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm, or Those that act to inhibit elastin degradation, such as extracts of Yukan (Phyllanthus emblica), such as Rona's Emblica®,
-Alternatively, a milk-fermented product using Lactobacillus vulgaris sold by Brooks under the trademark Biomin Yoghurt (R); sold by Alban Muller under the trademark HSP3 (registered trademark) Extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica; in particular budding yeast extract available under the trademark Firmalift® from Silab or Cytovitin® from LSN; such as Laminaine® from Secma Extracts of Laminaria ochroleuca; Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer; and extracts of cressone (Cress) (Odraline® of Silab) that affect the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans,
-Or an extract of phytoplankton salina (Salina) sold under the trademark GP4G® from Seporga; a yeast extract available under the trademark Drieline® from Alban Muller; and Matrixyl (from Sederma) Those that affect fibronectin synthesis, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide sold under the registered trademark).

  Among the active agents which stimulate epidermal macromolecules such as fillagrin and keratin, in particular, an extract of lupin sold by Silab under the trademark Structurine®; Gatuline® from Gattefosse Trademark extract of European beech (Fagus sylvatica) bud sold by RC; extract of zooplankton salina sold by Seporga under the trademark GP4G®; copper tripeptide of Procyte; trademark Filladyn by Laboratoires Serobiologiques Mention may be made of peptide extracts of Bambara groundnut (Voandzeia substerranea), such as the product sold under LS 9397®. Mention may be made of sugar derivatives such as xylose or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, for example the product sold under the trademark Mexoryl SBB.

  Preferably, a dermis selected from an agent that stimulates the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, an agent that inhibits the degradation of elastin, an agent that stimulates the synthesis of fibronectin, an agent that stimulates the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and a mixture thereof Active agents are used which stimulate the synthesis of and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation.

  Even more preferentially, active agents which stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans selected from extracts of brown alga Padina pavonica, budding yeast extract, Laminaria oculoika extract, Mamaku essence and watercress extract, and mixtures thereof Is used.

The following may be mentioned as preferred active agents which stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis and / or epidermis and / or prevent their degradation. Synthetic peptides such as lamine, biopeptide CL or palmitoyl oligopeptides sold by the company Sederma; peptides extracted from plants such as soybean hydrolysate sold by Coletica under the trademark Phytokine®; Silab Rice peptides such as Nutripeptide (R), methylsilanol mannuronic acid such as Algisium C (R) sold by Exsymol; Folic acid; m. Vulgaris such as the product sold under the name Vitanol (R) by Silab Alfalfa extract; peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®; Arginine; Aphanizomenone • floss aqua sold by Atrium Biotechnologies under the name Lanablue® Extract, malt extract sold under the trademark Collalift® by Coletica, Li Extracts of Moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781® from Cognis; Bilberry extracts such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 814 950; retinol and its derivatives, in particular retinyl palmitate; An extract of budding yeast sold under the trademark Cytovitin® by LSN; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as the product sold under the trademark Nuteline C® by Solabia; N- [N-acetyl, N {2- [acetyl, also known as'-(3-trifluoromethyl) phenylvalyl] glycine, or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valylglycine or acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine (3-Trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid or an ester thereof with a C ₁ -C ₆ alcohol; rice peptides such as Colhibin® from Pentapharm Extract or Yukan extract such as Rona's Emblica®; Brown alga Padina pabonica extract sold under the trademark HSP3® from Alban Muller; in particular under the trademark Firmalift® from Silab , Or budding yeast extract available under the trademark Cytovitin® from LSN; extracts of Laminaria oculoika such as Laminae® from Secma; Mamaku Essence from Lucas Meyer, under the trademark Structurine® from Silab Lupine extract sold; Beech sprout extract sold by Gattefosse under the trademark Gatuline® RC.

7. Agents that Stimulate Fibroblast or Keratinocyte Proliferation and / or Keratinocyte Differentiation Agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation that can be used in the compositions of the invention can be extracted, for example, from plant proteins or polypeptides, in particular from soy (Eg, soy extract sold by LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® or by Silab under the trademark Raffermine®); hydrolysis of Silab such as Ridulisse® And extracts of soy protein extracts; and plant hormones such as gibberellin and cytokinin; and hazelnut peptide extracts such as those sold by Solabia under the name Nuteline C®.

  Preferably, an agent that promotes the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes is used.

  Agents which stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes which can be used in the composition according to the invention are, in particular: adenosine; phloroglucinol, extract of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) leaves, such as Amacha Liquid E® from Ichimaru Pharcos, Stimoderm from CLR. Yeast extract such as (registered trademark); Extract of Larea divaricate such as Capislow (registered trademark) of Sederma, mixture of papaya, olive leaf and lemon extract such as Xyleine (registered trademark) of Vincience Retinol and its ester containing retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, extracts of nuts cake sold by Gattefosse, and extracts of potato (Solanum tuberosum) such as Dermolectine® sold by Sederma including.

  Among the agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation are, for example, minerals such as calcium; peptide extracts of lupines such as products such as calcium sulfate, products sold under the trademark Structurine® by Silab; Phytocohesine (trademark from Seporga) Sodium soluble β-sitosteryl (sitosteryl) sulfate, such as the product sold under the registered trademark); and water-soluble extract of corn, such as the product sold under the trademark Phytovityl® by Solabia; trademark Filladyn from the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques There is a peptide extract of Bambara bean such as the product sold under LS 9397®; and a lignan such as secorisalaricilesinol, and its esters including retinol and retinyl palmitate.

  Agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation and / or differentiation can also include estrogens such as estradiol and homologs; cytokines.

  Plant protein or polypeptide as a preferred active agent to stimulate fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and / or keratinocyte differentiation, in particular those extracted from soybeans (for example, under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8® from LSN) Or a soy extract sold under the trademark Raffermine® by Silab; a hydrolyzed soy protein extract such as Ridulisse® of Silab; sold by Solabia under the name Nuteline C® Products such as hazelnut peptide extract; adenosine; phloroglucinol, yeast extract such as Stimoderm® of CLR; peptide extract of lupine such as product sold under the trademark Structurine® by Silab; A water-soluble extract of corn, such as the product sold under the trademark Phytovityl® by Solabia; from Laboratoires Serobiologiques Examples include peptide extracts of Bambara bean such as the product sold under the trademark Filladyn LS 9397®; retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

8. Agents that Promote Maturation of the Corneal Envelope Agents that participate in the maturation of the stratum corneum that are impaired with age and induce a reduction in transglutaminase activity can be used in the compositions of the present invention. Examples that may be mentioned include urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® from National Starch, and other active agents listed in L'Oreal patent application FR 2 877 220 (unpublished).

9. NO synthase inhibitor
An agent having an inhibitory action on NO synthase is OPC (procyanidin oligomer); in particular, under the name “Leucocyanidins de raisins extra” from Euromed, or under the name Leucoselect® from Indena, or from Hansen A plant extract of the Vitis vinifera species, sold under the name "Extrait de marc de raisin", preferably obtained from olive leaves, in particular in the form of a dried extract from Vinyals, Or plant extracts of olive (Olea europaea) species sold under the trademark Eurol® BT from Biologia &Technologia; and plant extracts of Ginkgo biloba species, preferably from Beaufour under the trademark “Ginkgo biloba extrait standard It can be selected from the dried aqueous extracts of this plant sold under '', as well as mixtures thereof.

10. Peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists For example, 1- (2-chloro-phenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinolinecarboxamide; to patent applications WO 03/030 937 and WO 03/068 753 Mention may be made of the described compounds, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of the general formula (VII) described in patent document WO 00/44384.

11. Agents that Increase Sebaceous Gland Activity Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione and O-linoleyl-6D-glucose, and mixtures thereof.

12. Agents that stimulate energy metabolism of cells Active agents that stimulate energy metabolism of cells include, for example, biotin, budding yeast extract such as Phosphovital (registered trademark) of Sederma, sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese salt, zinc salt And mixtures of magnesium salts, eg mixtures of zinc, copper and magnesium salts of gluconic acid, such as Physiogenyl® from Solabia, Sepitonic M3® from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof; sold by Mibelle AG Biochemistry It can be selected from β-glucan derived from budding yeast such as the product being

13. Tightening Agents The term "tightening agent" which can be used according to the invention means a compound which is liable to be accompanied by a tightening action, ie capable of giving a firmness to the skin.

  According to the invention, the term "tightening agent" is generally soluble in water at a concentration of 7% by weight in water at temperatures ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., or at the maximum concentration at which a homogeneous appearance medium is formed? Or any compound that is easy to disperse and which causes a contraction of more than 15% in this test at a concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water.

  The maximum concentration at which a medium of homogeneous appearance is formed is determined within ± 10%, preferably ± 5%.

  The expression "medium of homogeneous appearance" means a medium which does not contain any macroscopic aggregates.

  For the determination of the maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is slowly added to the water with the peptizer with stirring at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. and then the mixture is stirred for one hour. The mixture thus prepared is then examined after 24 hours to see if it has a homogeneous appearance (no macroscopic aggregates).

  The tightening effect can be characterized by an in vitro contraction test.

  A homogenous mixture of 7% strength by weight in water or of the above mentioned maximum concentration of the tightening agent is prepared beforehand as described above.

30 μl of the homogeneous mixture are placed on a rectangular sample of elastomer (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width L ₀ 10 mm) with an elastic modulus of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm.

22 was dried 3 hours at ± 3 ° C. and a relative humidity of RH40 ± 10%, elastomer samples (do this and L _3h) width shrinks by the tension applied by the applied tensioning agent.

The drug's tightening effect (TE) is then quantified as follows.
“TE” = (L ₀ −L _{3 h} / L ₀ ) × 100 (%)
L ₀ = Initial width 10 mm
L _3h = 3 hours Dried width after allowed

The tightening agent is
Plant or animal protein and its hydrolyzate,
Polysaccharides of natural origin,
Mixed silicates,
Colloidal particles of inorganic filler,
Synthetic polymer,
As well as their mixtures.

  The person skilled in the art knows how to select the material corresponding to the above-mentioned tightening test from the chemical classifications in the list above.

In particular, the following may be mentioned:
(a) Plant proteins and protein hydrolysates, in particular of corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelled wheat, peas, beans, lentils, soy and lupine,
(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch especially derived from rice, corn, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oat etc., or (ii) advantageously In the form of carrageenan, alginate, agar, gellan, cellulose polymer and pectin as an aqueous dispersion of gel particles, and (b) shellac resin, sandarac gum, damar resin, elemigum, copal resin, cellulose Latex composed of derivatives and mixtures thereof
(c) mixed silicates, in particular phyllosilicates, in particular Laponites,
(d) having a number average diameter of 0.1 to 100 nm, preferably 3 to 30 nm, for example, silica, silica-alumina composite, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and dioxide Colloidal particles of inorganic filler selected from titanium. Examples of silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the composition of the present invention include those sold by Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HAS and Ludox TMA. Be
(e) Polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio (polymethylacrylate), propylthio (polymethylmethacrylate) and propylthio (polymethacrylic acid), or polydimethylsiloxane grafted with propylthio (polyisobutylmethacrylate) and propylthio (polymethacrylic acid) And synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latex or acrylic-silicone latex, in particular those described in patent application EP-1 038 519.

  Such grafted silicone polymers are in particular sold by 3M under the trademarks VS 80, VS 70 and LO 21.

  The tensioning agent is present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect in accordance with the present invention.

  For example, the tightening agent is included in the composition of the present invention at a content in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably 1% to 30% by weight of active material, based on the total weight of the composition. It can be done.

  The term "active material" is intended, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles, to exclude media in which the tightening agent can be dissolved or dispersed in its commercial form.

  In particular, it is also possible to use agents that increase mechanoreceptor expression, such as agents that increase integrin expression, to complement and / or enhance the action of the tightening agent.

  An example that may be mentioned is a rye seed extract such as the product sold by Silab under the name Coheliss®.

14. Fat Remodeling Agents According to the present invention, the term "fat remodeling agent" can stimulate adipogenesis and promote adipocyte differentiation, thus also known as "skin fat depletion", skin By drugs capable of preventing or slowing down the fat contained in the supporting tissue.

  The term "skin fat" means the fat cell network on which the facial skin is placed and which forms a shaped volume.

These agents are intended to:
-Reducing skin density loss and / or skin fat depletion, especially around the cheeks and eyes, and / or
Preventing the loss of facial volume collapse and / or depression, in particular the firmness of the skin around the cheek and the eye and / or its maintenance, and / or
Improving the volume under the skin around the face and / or neck, in particular the cheeks, the oval of the face and the eyes, and / or
-Improving the density, elasticity and maintenance of the skin, especially around the cheeks, face ovoids and eyes, and / or
-Improving the facial shape, especially the oval shape of the face.

  Examples of fat restructuring agents which may be mentioned in particular are black tea extracts such as fermented black tea extract sold under the name Kombuchka® by Sederma, and products sold under the name Pulpactyl® by Silab And extracts of Artemisia abrotanum.

15. Slimming agents Slimming (lipolytic) agents which may be mentioned in particular include caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericosine, asiatic acid, acephyrin, aminophylline, chloroethyl theophylline, diprofilin, dini Profilin (diniprophylline), etamiphilin and its derivatives, etofylin and proxiphilin; tea, coffee, guarana, mate, extract of Cola nitida, in particular guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8% to 10% of caffeine Dried extract of vine; ivy ivy (Hedera helix), Arnica (Arnica montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), Ginseng (Panax ginseng), Asiaticum Hypericum perforatum, red aphid (Ruscus aculeatus L), Shimotsuke C. (Filipendula ulmaria L), Kumicstine (Orthosiphon stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cecropia and argan tree extract, Ginkgo biloba extract, Ginseng extract, escin extract, extract of candzu (cangzhu), chrysanthem inzicum ( (Chrysanthellum indicum) extract, an extract of a yam plant rich in diosgenin or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and derivatives thereof, an extract of Ballota, a extract of Gia (Guioa), a Shinobu (Davallia), a Terminalia, a Sarringtona (Barringtonia) Extracts of cocoa bean (Theobroma cacao), such as extracts of Trema or Antirobia, seed extracts of Daidaidai; seeds sold by Solabia under the name Caobromine®.

16. Agents that promote capillary circulation in the skin Active agents that act on the capillary circulation in the skin prevent the appearance of complexion and / or improve the appearance of the peripheral area of the eye, especially wrinkles around the eye It can be used to reduce. The active agent is, for example, marine pine bark extract, for example Pycnogenol® from Biolandes, Manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn® from SEPPIC), Ammi visnaga such as Visnadine from Indena. Extract, Lupine extract (Elab's Elaline® from Silab), Ebolaline 100 from Laboratoires Carilene, etc. Hydrolyzed wheat / palmitic acid and a protein combining palmitic acid, flower extract of daidai flower (Remoduline® from Silab ), Vitamin P and its derivatives, such as methyl-4 escretole monosodium monoethanoate sold by Sephytal under the name Permethol®, sodium monochoride (Ruscus), horsetail, ivy, ginseng and rinds Extract, caffeine, nicotinic acid salt and its derivatives, lysine and its derivatives, such as Asparlyne® from Solabia The extract can be selected from extracts of black tea such as Kombuchka from Sederma; rutin salts; extracts of the algae Corallina (Corallina officinalis) such as the products sold by Codif; as well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferred agents that promote capillary blood circulation in the skin include caffeine, extracts of flowering daidori, black tea extract, rutin salt and extracts of the algal coral reef.

17. Sedatives or anti-irritants The term "sedatives" means compounds capable of reducing the stinging sensation, itching or firmness of the skin.

The following may be mentioned as sedatives that can be used in the composition of the present invention. Procyanidol oligomers, vitamin E, B5 and B3, caffeine and derivatives thereof, 5-membered ring triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, β-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof (glycyrrhetate stearyl, 3-stearoyl Oxyglycyrrhetinic acid or monoglucuronide glycyrrhetinic acid) and plants containing them (eg, Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts , Button and / or extract of lactiflora, extract of Laminaria saccharina, extract of trifolium, rapeseed oil, bisabolol, phosphate diesters of vitamins E and C, eg Sepivital EPC for SEPPIC, chamomile Extract, allanto , Musk rose oil, blackcurrant oil, echium (Ecchium) oil, omega-3 unsaturated oil such as fish oil or beauty-leaf oil, plankton extract, capryloylglycine, the name Seppicalm VG (registered trademark) from SEPPIC A mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoyl proline, an extract of Boswellia serrata, a product sold under the name Cehami PF® by TRI-K Industries, Inc. Extracts of Centipeda cannon crab (Centipeda cunninghami), sunflower seed extract, especially Helab's Helioxine®, flax (Linum usitatissimum) seed extract, eg Silab's Sensiline®, tocotrienol, piperonal, Fytokem Products Extract of Epenobium angustifolium, such as the product sold under the name Canadian Willowherb Extract by the Company, Aloe La, phytosterol, cornflower water, rose water, mint extract, in particular mint leaf extract such as Calmiskin® of Silab, aniseed derivative, filamentous bacteria, such as described in patent document EP 761 204, from Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG Vitreoscilla filiformis, an extract of rose petals, such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, Shea butter, barley obtained by supercritical CO ₂ Mixtures of waxy fractions of seeds, shea butter and Argan oil, eg Stimu-tex AS® from Pentapharm, in particular alkaline earth metal salts of strontium, under the name Abyssine® from Atrium Biotechnologies Fermented extract of Alteromonas for sale; water from Celestin, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hopital, Lucas and Parc sources Spring water from the Vichy Basin, such as water from the Lucas source, preferably the product sold by Cognis under the name Eperuline®, such as Eperua falcata bark extract, from Ichimaru Pharcos Extract of root of button, such as the product sold under Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof.

  The following are used as preferred sedatives of the present invention. β-Glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof (stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyl oxyglycyrrhetinic acid or monoglucuronide glycyrrhetinic acid) and plants containing them (eg licorice); ursolic acid and its salts; Rapeseed oil, bisabolol; chamomile extract, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoyl proline, such as the product sold under the name Seppicalm VG® by SEPPIC, Inc .; aloe vera, rose water, mint extract, especially Silab Mint leaf extract, such as Calmiskin®, a filamentous bacterium, such as Vitreoschillus filiformis, described in patent document EP 761 204 and sold by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG®, manufactured by Cosmetochem Rose petal extract such as Rose Flower Herba extract extract, Avatar, a fermented extract of Alteromonas sold by Atrium Biotechnologies under the name Abyssine®; preferably a spring water from the Vichy Basin, such as water from Celestin, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hopital, Lucas and Parc sources. Water from Lucas source; Epirla falcata bark extract such as the product sold under the name Eperuline® by Cognis; button such as the product sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B® by Ichimaru Pharcos Root extract; as well as its mixtures.

18. Seborrhea control agent or antiseborrhoeic agent The term "seborrhea control agent or antiseborrhoeic agent" means an agent which can in particular control the activity of the sebaceous glands.

In particular, the following can be mentioned.
-Retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride and siefennel,
-A mixture of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine extract, such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA® of SEPPIC
-A mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, sold in particular under the trademark Sepicontrol A5® by SEPPIC.
-Zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pyrrolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate,
-Copper derivatives, in particular copper pyrrolate such as Cuivridone® from Solabia,
-For example, Arnica montana (Arnica montana), Cakinonaki (Cinchona succirubra), Chouji (Eugenia caryophyllata), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Sturgeon (Hypericum perforatum), Sturgeon (Mentha piperita) all sold by Maruzen , Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Sage (Salvia officinalis) and Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) species of plant extract,
-Extract of Spiraea ulmaria, such as the product sold under the name Sebonormine (R) by Silab;
-Extracts of algae carapace extract, such as the products sold under the name Phlorogine® by Biotechmarine.
-Mixtures of extracts of Scutellaria root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizome (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as the product sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia
-Flaxseed extract, such as the product sold under the name Linumine® from Lucas Meyer,
-Extracts of Phellodendron, such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG from Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B from Ichimaru Pharcos.
-A mixture of Argan oil, extract of Serenoa serrulata (Sorpalmet) and Sesame seed extract, such as the product sold under the name Regu SEB® from Pentapharm,
-A mixture of red pepper, myrobalan (Terminalia chebula), an extract of kalanka and a bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the product sold under the name Seborilys (R) by Green Tech.
-Extract of African prune (Pygeum afrianum), such as the product sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract from Euromed,
-An extract of saw palmetto such as the product sold by Actives International under the name Viapure Sabal or the one sold by Euromed.
-A mixture of plantain, hollywood (Berberis aquifolium) and extracts of sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear® by Rahn,
-Clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder from Maruzen,
-Argan oil, such as the product sold under the name Lipofructyl® by Laboratoires Serobiologiques,
-A filtrate of milk protein, such as the product sold by Sederma under the name Normaseb®,
-Extracts of algal kelp (Laminaria), such as the product sold under the name Laminarghane® from Biotechmarine.
-Oligosaccharides of the algae Laminaria digitata, such as the product sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by Codif,
-Sugar cane extract, such as the product sold under the name Policosanol (R) by Sabinsa.
-A sulfonated shale oil, such as the product sold under the name Ichthyol Pale® by Ichthyol.
-Extract of European meadowsweet, such as the product sold under the name Cytobiol® Ulmaire by Libiol,
-Sebacic acid sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel, sold in particular by Sederma under the name Sebosoft®
Glucomannan, which is extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkyl sulfonate chains, such as the product sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical,
-Extracts of Clara (Sophora angustifolia), such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland,
-Red oak bark extract, such as the product sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller.
-Extracts of Quillaja saponaria, such as the products sold under the name Panama wood HS from Alban Muller.
-A glycine grafted onto the undecylene chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipicide UG OR by SEPPIC.
-A mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as the product sold in the form of a gel of the name AC.Net from Sederma,
-Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid,
-Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) citrate tri sold by ECI (C ₁₂ ~C ₁₃₎ alkyl; Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) tri citric acid sold by ECL (C ₁₄ ~ C ₁₅ ) alkyl,
A mixture of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol, such as 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, in particular the product sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by Vincience;
-Its mixture.

Preferred anti-seborrhea activators which may be mentioned include:
-Benzoyl peroxide and vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine),
-Zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pyrrolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate,
-An extract of the primrose, such as the product sold under the name Sebonormine® by Silab,
-Extracts of algae carapace extract, such as the products sold under the name Phlorogine® by Biotechmarine.
-A mixture of Dutch Russock Root, ginger rhizome and cinnamon bark extract, such as the product sold under the name Sebustop® by Solabia
-Clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder from Maruzen,
-A filtrate of milk protein, such as the product sold by Sederma under the name Normaseb®,
-Extract of Azalea nervosa, such as the product sold by Libiol under the name Cytobiol (R) Ulmaire,
-Sebacic acid sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel, sold in particular by Sederma under the name Sebosoft®
-A glycine grafted onto the undecylene chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipicide UG OR by SEPPIC.
-Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) citrate tri sold by ECI (C ₁₂ ~C ₁₃₎ alkyl; Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) tri citric acid sold by ECL (C ₁₄ ~ C ₁₅ ) alkyl,
A mixture of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol, such as 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, in particular the product sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by Vincience;
-Its mixture.

Preferentially, the antiseborrhoeic agent is selected from:
-Zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pyrrolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate; preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pydronate) Or zinc salicylate,
-Clove extract, such as the product sold under the name Clove extract powder from Maruzen,
-A glycine grafted onto the undecylene chain, such as the product sold under the name Lipicide UG OR by SEPPIC.
-Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) citrate tri sold by ECI (C ₁₂ ~C ₁₃₎ alkyl; Sasol the company name Cosmacol (R) tri citric acid sold by ECL (C ₁₄ ~ C ₁₅ ) alkyl,
-As well as their mixtures.

  The antiseborrhoeic active agent has, for example, a content in the range of 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferentially 0.5 wt% to 3 wt% based on the total weight of the composition Exists in

19. Astringents According to the invention, the term "astringents" means agents that deal with the swelling of the sebaceous follicles.

  Among the astringent agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention are extracts of the flesh of the mushroom (Polyporus officinalis), such as, for example, extracts of Conicis Laricyl LS 8865®, Terminalia catappa and Sambucus nigra, such as Cognis Phytofirm LS 9120 (registered trademark), extract of gall (eg, Gull nut), Tanlex VE (registered trademark) of Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxide chloride, extract of centella, (eg, Plantactiv centella of Cognis), dicetyldimethylammonium chloride For example, Degussa Varisoft 432 CG (registered trademark), horseradish extract, mallow extract, apricot extract, sweet almond extract, apricot root extract and flaxseed extract, eg Cognis Almondermin LS 3380 (registered) Trademark, burdock extract, nettle extract, birch extract, foxtail extract Chamomile extract, such as that sold under the name Extrapone 9 special® by Symrise, Scutellaria roota extract, Scutellaria barracuda extract (eg Cytobiol Ulmaire from Libiol), extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary and yucca Mixtures of for example Herb Flavors & Fragrances Herb extract B1348®, acacia, elm, birch, cinnamon, birch and birch extract, panama sapongen, Interchemical zinc phenol sulfonate, gentian, cucumber and walnut And mixtures of extracts of Latania (Ratanhia), grapefruit, gumweed and oak gall, such as Epilami.RTM. From Alban Muller.

  As a preferred astringent agent of the present invention, Scutellaria barbata L. extract, Scutellaria barbata L. extract, Psyllium vulgare extract, gentian extract and burdock extract, and mixtures thereof are used.

20. Scar healing agents Examples of scar healing agents that may be mentioned in particular are allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine and serine, and birch extract (eg Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 of Indena), yeast extract For example the scar-care agent LS LO / 7225 B) of Laboratoires Serobiologiques, Tamanu oil, an extract of budding yeast, such as Biodynes® TRF® of Arch Chemical, oat extract, chitosan and derivatives such as glutamic acid chitosan, carrot extract , Artemia extract such as GP GP 4 G (registered trademark) of Vincience, sodium axhamate, Lavandin extract, propolis extract, ximenine (ximeninic) acid and its salts, rosehip oil, marigold extract, such as Souci Ami (registered trademark) of Alban Muller Liposolible, foxtail extract, lemon peel extract, eg Co Included are Herbosol® citron from smetochem, helichrysum extract, yarrow extract and folic acid.

  Arginine, serine, folic acid, Tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, Toxa extract and Helichrysum extract, and mixtures thereof are used as preferred scarring agents of the present invention.

21. Anti-inflammatory agents As specific anti-inflammatory agents which can be used according to the invention, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azelaic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, folic acid; Mention may be made of the extract of Epirla falcata bark such as the product sold; the extract of the root of the button such as the product sold under the name Botanpi Liquid B® by the company Ichimaru Pharcos, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferred anti-inflammatory agents which may be mentioned are azelaic acid, folic acid, extracts of Epirla falcata bark, such as the product sold under the name Eperuline® by Cognis, Inc .; the name Botanpi Liquid B® from Ichimaru Pharcos Extracts of button roots such as the products sold in; and mixtures thereof.

22. Anti-acne agent In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may also comprise at least one anti-acne agent.

  The term "anti-acne active agent" means any active agent which has an action, in particular against a specific bacterial flora of greasy skin, such as Propionibacterium acnes (Acne bacteria).

  These effects may be bactericidal.

Among the bactericidal (Antibactericidal) active agents that may be mentioned in particular are:
Active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity, as listed in patent application DE 103 24 567, which is incorporated herein by reference.
-Asiatic acid,
Monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: pirocton olamine), sold in particular by Clariant under the name Octipirox®,
-Citronellic acid, perlic acid (or 4-isopropenyl-cyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid),
Glyceryl 2-ethylhexylether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin), sold for example by Shulke & Mayr under the name Sensiva SC 50®
For example glyceryl caprylic / caprate sold by Abitec under the name Capmul MCM®
-Sodium calcium phosphosilicate, sold in particular by the company Schott Glass under the names Bioactive Glasspowder® and Actysse Premier BG®,
Silver-based particles, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS®,
Hoplet extract obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction, such as the product marketed by Flavex Naturextrakte under the name HOP CO 2 -TO extract®,
St. John's Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction, such as the product sold under the name St. John's Wort CO 2-TO extract® from Flavex Naturextrakte,
-A mixture of Scutellaria root, button root and licorice extract, such as the product sold by Naturogin under the name BMB-CF (registered trademark)
-Argan tree extract, eg Argapure LS9710® from Cognis,
-Leaf extract of Bearberry, eg product sold by Pentapharm under the name Melfade-J,
10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P® from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone such as Amical Flowable® from Angus, Malachite powder, Zincare from Elementis GMBH Zinc oxide such as (registered trademark), octadecene diacid such as Arlatone dioic DCA (registered trademark) of Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3) ', 4'-Dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3', 4 ', 5'-trichlorosalicyanilide , Phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazo , Econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxyconazole, sulfaconazole (sulphaconazole), sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide , 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanide ( trichlorocarbanalide), octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G (registered trademark) of SEPPIC, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, described in patent application WO 93/18743 Dichlorophenylimida of Rujiokisoran and its derivatives, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyl dodeca -2,5,10- trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosine; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts and,
-Its mixture.

Certain surfactants having antimicrobial activity, such as sodium cocoamphoacetate or disodium diacetate such as Miranol C2M Conc. NP, betaines such as Clariant's cocoyl betaine Genagen KB, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, such as Kao's Emal 270 D, decyl glucosides, such as Plantacare 2000 UP, branched C _{12 to 13} malic acid dialkyl, e.g. Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters, such as propylene glycol monolaurate ester, monocaprylate ester or monocaprate ester, lauryl dimethyl amine betaine, e.g. Empigen BB Mention may also be made of: / LS and polyquaternary ammonium such as Lonza's Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050, as well as those described in patent document FR 0 108 283, as well as mixtures thereof.

  As a preferred antimicrobial agent, an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerin, and 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof is used in the composition of the present invention.

  Other additional anti-acne agents can be added to the aforementioned anti-acne agents.

  In particular, mention may be made of active agents having anti-adhesive action of bacteria, or agents which act on bacterial biofilm to prevent bacterial growth.

As agents for preventing and / or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms, in particular, phytantriol described in patent application EP 1 529 523, its derivatives described in patent document EP 1 133 979, wheat germ oil, calendula oil, castor oil described in patent document EP 1 133 979 , Vegetable oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame seed oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil and macadamia oil, or cocoamphodiacetate disodium, oxyethylenated (7EO) glyceryl cocoate, 18- Specific interfaces such as hexadecenyl succinate, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether and branched C _12-13 dialkyl tartrates as described in patent document EP 1 129 694 Activators can be mentioned, as well as mixtures thereof.

  Pentylene glycol, Nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibres), rice bran oil, Celvole Chemical's Celvol, in particular as an active agent for the growth of acne bacteria, or as an active agent acting against bacterial biofilms to prevent bacterial growth. Mention may be made of polyvinyl alcohols such as 540 PV alcohol®, rapeseed oil and fructose derivatives such as Akorex L® of Karlshamns, and mixtures thereof.

  The anti-acne active may be present at a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The person skilled in the art knows how to select the best embodiment of the invention according to the nature and / or solubility of the aforementioned active agents.

  The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent is preferably 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferentially 0.5 It will be present in one of the compositions of the present invention at a content ranging from 5%, more preferably 0.1% to 1%.

  In "peeling" applications, the content of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent is from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition The range of weight% can be taken.

  Debonding is to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the brightness and homogeneity of the complexion, and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactilely perceived unevenness of the skin. In particular, to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce marks of light lentigo, acne or blisters, and to prevent, reduce or cope with signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, etc. It is a known means for flattening the texture irregularities of the skin.

  Exfoliation has the effect of removing the surface area of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis) by chemical methods. The invention will now be illustrated by way of a specific but non-limiting example.

Cosmetic assembly According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly, which assembly comprises:
A container defined by at least one compartment closed by a closing member;
And the aforementioned composition contained in the compartment.

  The container may be in any suitable form. The container may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a bottle, a case, a box, a sachet or a carton.

  The closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cap, a perforated piece or a capsule, and in particular a type comprising a body coupled to the container and a cover cap anchored on the body It may be The closing member may be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a flat valve.

  The container can be combined with the applicator. The applicator may, for example, be in the form of a brush as described in patent document FR2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a foam or elastomeric block, felt or spatula. The applicator may not be fixed (cosmetic puff or sponge), for example as described in patent document US Pat. No. 5,492,426, or it may be firmly fixed to the rod carried by the closing member. The applicator may be rigidly fixed to the container, for example as described in patent document FR 2 761 959.

  The product can be put directly into the container or may be indirect. For example, the product can be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a pad, and can be placed (individually or together) in a box or pouch. Such a support incorporating a product, including a correction pen, is described, for example, in the patent application WO 01/03538.

  The closing member can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the closing member and the container are coupled by screwing, in particular by means of a plugging mechanism, by screwing, by clamping, by grasping, by welding, by gluing or by magnetic force, other than by screwing. The term "lock in one push" refers to the elastic unrestrained position of the part after the beads or cords of the material intersect, in particular by elastic deformation of the part of the closing member and then the beads or cords intersect. It is intended to mean any system that involves reverting.

  The container can be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastics, mention may be made of polypropylene or polyethylene.

  Alternatively, the container can be made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

  The container can have rigid or deformable walls, in particular in the form of tubes or tubular bottles.

  The container can include means for initiating or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container can have a deformable wall to allow the composition to exit in response to positive pressure in the container, said positive pressure resiliently (or inelastically) the wall of the container ) Produced by narrowing.

  The container can be constructed from a carton provided with a base defining at least one housing containing the composition and, in particular, a lid secured on the base and able to at least partially cover the base. . Such cartons are described, for example, in the application WO 03/018423 or the patent document FR 2 791 042.

  The container can be fitted with a drainer which is arranged in the area of the opening of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and in some cases the rod to which it can be firmly fixed. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent document FR2 792 618.

  The invention will now be illustrated using the following non-limiting examples. The amounts of the components of the following formulation examples are expressed as% by weight relative to the total formulation.

(Example)
(Examples 1 to 3) Cream gel

Examples 4 and 5 Hand Cream

Comparative Evaluation of Prevention of Skin Browning The following two formulations are prepared.

  The graph of FIG. 1 shows that the composition has a critical wavelength λ c equal to 349 nm.

  The graph of FIG. 1 shows that composition 7 has a critical wavelength λ c equal to 377 nm.

  The in vivo tests for Examples 6 and 7 were performed on eight subjects meeting the following criteria.

  The subject has fairly pigmented Type V skin during sorting, which is associated with an individualistic angle (ITA °) of less than 15 °.

The phototype is expressed in the form of ITA ° angles calculated from the L ^* and b ^* values of the skin.
ITA ° = (ATAN ((L ^* −50) / b)) ^* 180/3, 14159)
Where L ^* is the lightness of the skin obtained by conventional colorimetric measurements using a Minolta CR 200 colorimeter, and b ^* is its yellow component. ATAN is an arctangent function. This calculation, which is well known to those skilled in the art, is detailed in Chardon A, Cretois I, Hourseau C: Skin colour typology and suntanning pathways. Int J Cosm Scie, 13, 191-208, 1991.

The types of skin can be grouped according to their ITA ° as follows.
ITA °> 55 °: very fair skin
41 ° <ITA ° <55 °: Fair skin
28 ° <ITA ° <41 °: neutral skin
10 ° <ITA ° <28 °: dark skin
-30 ° <ITA ° <10 °: brown skin
ITA ° <-30 °: black skin.

  A small band of back is segmented and exposed to UVA + UVB spectra at 290-400 nm.

Each product zone (applied at ² mg / cm ² ) was exposed according to 6 incremental doses of UV (D1 to D6). The band without product is denoted as "DMP np".

Quantification of pigmentation Visual grading of pigmentation: a measure of assessment by 14 levels.

  Colorimetric measurement for each exposed zone (treated or untreated) + one measurement for the adjacent control zone.

Use of measured values
-For each UV dose, for each product (and for bare skin, DMP np), and for each individual, for each UV dose of induced UV pigmentation levels compared to the untreated no exposure zone:
- then the parameters L ^*, a ^*, using the b ^*, those variations and parameters (Delta] E) of ^{2 = Δa * 2 + Δb *} 2 + ΔL * 2, for each UV dose for each product (or Calculate the untreated exposure zone) and each individual.
The higher the ΔE, the darker the exposed skin.
-Variation of the ITA angle between the exposed zone and the non-exposed control zone allows observation of changes in the class of skin before and after each exposure of the zone. ΔITA ° = ITA of exposed spots-ITA of adjacent skin: The higher the ΔITA, the darker the exposed skin.

  The results are represented by the curves in FIG.

  These results show that a composition characterized by a critical wavelength value (λc) of more than 370 nm is more effective for preventing browning than a composition having a critical wavelength value (λc) of less than 370 nm. Demonstrate.

Claims (11)

A cosmetic method for controlling skin browning induced by UV radiation, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,
a) following formula (II)

Also known as 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or else as phenylethyl resorcinol or phenylethyl benzenediol or styryl resorcinol Things,
And at least one depigmenting agent selected from an enantiomer of its S-configuration, an enantiomer of its R-configuration, or a racemic mixture thereof;
b) mud cytometry tetrazole trisiloxane, Te reflex Tali isopropylidene Time fur sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and octocrylene, to shield both UVB radiation UVA radiation and wavelength 280~320nm wavelength 320~400nm At least one system of
c) A method of applying to the skin surface at least one composition having a critical wavelength λ c of more than 370 nm, optionally with at least one desquamation agent.   The method according to claim 1 for controlling the browning of dark skin induced by UV radiation. A system for the shield further comprises a particulate bi scan (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis (benzotriazolyl) hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agents chosen from tetramethylbutylphenol or mixtures thereof The method according to claim 1 or 2 . The system for shielding is
a) a U VA screening agents, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid n- hexyl Le,
b) particulate bi scan (ethylhexyl oxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine, methylene bis (benzotriazolyl) at least one hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agents chosen from tetramethylbutylphenol or mixtures thereof
The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2 , further comprising 5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the system for shielding consists of at least four organic UV shielding agents and at least one inorganic UV shielding agent. Wherein the composition comprises also at least one desquamating agent, the method according to any one of claims 1 to 5. The said desquamation agent is β-hydroxy acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); urea; glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) 7. The method according to claim 6 , wherein the method is selected from piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); extract of endace; honey; N-acetylglucosamine; methylglycine diacetate sodium, and mixtures thereof. Wherein the composition, at least one component that promotes the stabilization of at least one component and / or depigmenting agent promoting the solubilization of depigmenting agents also include, according to any one of claims 1 to 7 Method. The composition comprises a hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agent, a preservative, a solvent, a fragrance, a germicide, an odor absorber, a dye, a plant extract, a salt, a basic agent, an acid, nonionic, anionic or cationic. Surfactants; fillers selected from matte fillers, soft focus fillers, fluorescent agents, polishing agents or exfoliating fillers and mixtures thereof; moisturizers, agents improving barrier function, antioxidants, skin contraction Inhibitors, anti-glycemic agents, agents which stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of the dermis and / or epidermis and / or prevent their degradation, agents which stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, Drugs that promote maturation of the stratum corneum, NO synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, drugs that increase sebaceous gland activity, cellular energy Drugs that stimulate metabolism, tightening agents, fat reconstituting agents, slimming agents, agents that promote capillary circulation in the skin, sedatives and / or antiirritants, seborrhea control agents or antiseborrhoeants, astringents , scar healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and at least one auxiliary agent selected from the active agent selected from anti-acne agents including, method according to any one of claims 1 to 8. According to any one of claims 1 to 9, cosmetic compositions for controlling browning of the skin induced by UV irradiation. a) a container defined by at least one compartment, closed by a closing member;
b) placed in the compartment, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, and a composition for controlling the browning of the skin induced by UV irradiation, induced by UV irradiation Cosmetic or dermatological assembly for controlling the browning of skin.

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