WO2022000053A1

WO2022000053A1 - Cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and processes for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition

Info

Publication number: WO2022000053A1
Application number: PCT/BR2020/050236
Authority: WO
Inventors: Vitor BORGES DE SÁ
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2020-06-30
Filing date: 2020-06-30
Publication date: 2022-01-06
Also published as: BR112022021113A2; KR20230029919A; FR3111809B1; CN116710054A; FR3111809A1

Abstract

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF and antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, which may or may not tint the skin, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one active compound and at least one polymer. The present invention is also directed to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

Description

COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND PROCESSES FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC

SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high Sun Protection Factor (SPF), antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, which may or may not tint the skin, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one active compound and at least one polymer. The present invention is also directed to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

In addition to the damages of sun-damage, sunburn and photo-aging caused by solar radiation, at different periods of their life, especially during aging and as a result of UVA radiation, some people see appear on their skin, particularly on their hands and/or face, darker and/or more pigmented spots, giving the skin a heterogeneity appearance. These spots are due in particular to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.

The mechanism of melanogenesis, that is, the mechanism of melanin formation is particularly complex, and schematically involves the following main steps:

Tyrosine is involved in the mechanism of skin pigmentation, which schematically involves the following main steps:

Tyrosine ® DOPA ® Dopaquinone ® Dopachrome ® Melanin

Tyrosinase is the essential enzyme involved in these reactions. In particular, it catalyzes the conversion reaction of tyrosine to DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine) thanks to its hydroxylase activity, and the conversion reaction of DOPA to dopaquinone by virtue of its oxidase activity. This tyrosinase only acts when it is maturing under the influence of certain biological factors.

In addition, UVA radiation can have a significant contribution to the clinical consequences of solar UV exposure, particularly the pigmentation caused by the solar radiation.

UVA induces immediate pigment darkening (IPD) within a short time, as little as a few hours, by acting on preexisting melanin. UVA can also cause persistent pigment darkening (PPD) in the skin. Among the UV wavelengths reaching the Earth surface, longwave UVA (340- 400nm) represents up to 80% of total UV and show high penetration properties, reaching the deep dermis.

When a person already has pigmented spots on the skin, or melasma (skin discoloration), a possible solution to decrease their color is to use some active ingredients that act in the hyperpigmentation process in order to brighten these spots and uniform the skin tone. Although UVA reaches the dermal layers of the skin and its effects on photo aging and keratinocyte invasiveness, melanocytes seem to be more susceptible to the damaging effects of UVA. For example, exposure of cultured melanocytes and keratinocytes from the same donor to UVA and UVB showed that UVA-induced oxidative lesions contributed to a larger extent to DNA damage in melanocytes than in keratinocytes.

The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA/UVB).

Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application. Flowever, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because many sunscreen active compounds themselves have an oily or greasy feel, and increasing their content tends to cause the final product to suffer from that effect.

Also, most organic sunscreen filters are oil-like and/or oil-soluble materials. High levels of sunscreen filters in sunscreen products render the products less appealing for their greasy skin feel, stickiness, long drying time, and leave shiny residue on the skin after application. The filters also have the tendency to whiten the skin after application and after becoming wet with water or perspiration which is an undesirable attribute.

Additionally, an important problem of cosmetic sunscreen compositions is that due to the great amount of sunscreen filters associated with great amount of fillers to ensure the good sensoriality and pigments in the O/W emulsion, it tends to be unstable.

Furthermore, it is also desirable to produce a cosmetic sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties. For example, it is desired to produce a cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, or even a composition with these properties plus the capability of tinting the skin to correct imperfections. Flowever, combining high SPF and good sensory in a formula with antiwrinkle effectiveness, is a complicating factor to stabilize the formula due to the presence of large amount of active and oily phase, which worsens with pigments for a tinted formula.

Therefore, a cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, which may or may not be able to tint the skin is desired, which is stable and does not feel heavy on the consumer’s skin.

The inventors of the present application have surprisingly managed to develop a cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, which may or may not be able to tint the skin, while the formula had good sensorial attributes and stability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to new cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy, which may or may not tint the skin, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one active compound and at least one polymer. The present invention is also directed to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In an embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 5.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof;

(b) from about 0.1 to about 10.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one active compound selected from hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, ferulic acid, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) from about 1 .5 to about 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one UV filter ranges from about 5.0 to about 20.0 %, from about 6.0 to about 19.0 %, from about 7.0 to about 18.0 %, from about 8.0 to about 17.0 %, from about 9.0 to about 16.0 %, from about 10.0 to about 17.0%, from about 10.0 to about 15.0 %, from about 11 .0 to about 14.0 %, from about 12.0 to about 15.0 %, from about 14.0 to about 17.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one active compound ranges from about 0.1 to about 10.0 %, from about 0.5 to about 10.0 %, from about 0.75 to about 9.0 %, from about 1 .0 to 7.5 %, from about 2.0 to about 8.0 %, from about 2.5 to about 6.0 %, from about 4.0 to about 5.0 %, from about 0.8 to about 5.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one polymer ranges from about 1 .5 to about 5.0 %, from about 2.0 to about 4.5 %, from about 2.5 to about 4.0 % by weight, from about 3.0 to about 3.5 %, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises from about 5.0 to about 15.0 %, preferably from about 6.0 to about 14.0 %, from about 7.0 to about 13.0 %, from about 8.0 to about 12.0 %, from about 9.0 to about 11 .0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional actives, surfactants, fat materials, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from 30 to 80, preferably from 40 to 70, more preferably about 50. In various embodiments, cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 and 80.

In an embodiment, cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 50.

In an embodiment, cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 60.

In an embodiment, cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 70.

In an embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a Sun Protection Factor of 80.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.

The present invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic sunscreen composition for manufacturing a product for the photoprotection of keratinous materials with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy.

Terms

As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used in the present application, the term “anti-spots” relates to the brightening of pigmented spots or melasma (skin discoloration) for an even-toned skin. Synonyms may include “skin bleaching”, “depigmentation”, “skin tone correction”, among others.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

The terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.” Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” The term, “a mixture thereof does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which encompasses up to +/- 3%.

“Substituted," as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A,

B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B,

C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.

All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.

Additional UV Filters

In addition to the at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise additional UV filters.

According to the invention, the concentration of additional sunscreen/UV filters in the system may be between about 5 % to about 35 %, preferably between about 7 % to about 30 % and even more preferably between about 10 % to about 29 % by weight of the total weight of the composition. Additional non-limiting suitable UV filters of the present invention could be as follows:

Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

The “oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.

Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from alkyl- styrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4- diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP1133981 , merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 ; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.

As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those denoted herein below under their INCI name:

Cinnamic derivatives:

Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane derivatives: Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

Salicylic derivatives:

Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.

Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives:

Examples of suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, etocrylene.

Benzophenone derivatives:

Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.

Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:

Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.

Triazine derivatives:

Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’- aminobenzalmalonate)-S triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n- butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-1 ,3,5- triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1 ,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)- 1 ,3,5-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991 , WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985). Anthranilic derivatives:

An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.

Imidazoline derivatives:

An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives:

An example of a suitable benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-butadiene.

Benzoxazole derivatives:

An example of suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.

The oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 3% to about 25% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, and most preferably about 7% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

The “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine cationic quaternary salts and derivatives such as those described in United States Patent 5,601 ,811 , the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, and mixtures thereof.

The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.

Preferably, the water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient will be chosen from methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, and most preferably about 1% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient

The “silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient” means spherical beads which are formed by encapsulating titanium dioxide particles in silica.

Non-limiting examples of silica coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, titanium dioxide coated with silica, such as name silica (and) titanium dioxide having a composition of silica: titanium dioxide of about 55:45 and having a particle size from about 2 microns to about 7 microns.

The silica-coated titanium dioxide sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 2% to about 10% by weight, and most preferably about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Additional Ingredients

In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional sunscreens, perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates/Cio-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise at least one silicon ingredient, which may be dimethicone and caprylyl methicone, among others.

Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.

Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

Adequate surfactants may be selected from potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and inulin lauryl carbamate, among others.

In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration from about 15 to 100% by weight, or from about 25 to about 80% by weight, or from about 30 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 75% by weight, or preferably from about 40 to about 70% by weight, and more preferably from about 40 to about 60% by weight, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.

Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise at least one dye/pigment, preferably titanium oxide or iron oxides.

Exemplary fat or oil materials include, but are not limited to, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica or polylactic acid.

The additional ingredients may represent from 50% to 85%, such as from 55% to 82% or such as from 60 to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

A non-limiting example regarding the preparation of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be as follows:

Step (A): Main Vessel - Hot oily phase comprising oil raw materials in a temperature ranging from 75 ^QC to 80 ^QC;

Step (B): Side Vessel - room temperature aqueous phase comprising aqueous raw materials;

Step (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step (A), after which the emulsifier is subsequently added, followed by mixing the mixture;

Step (D): the polymers are added to the mixture obtained in step (C), subsequently followed by a neutralization;

Step (E): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (D) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30^QC.

Another non-limiting example regarding the preparation of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be as follows: Step (A): Main Vessel - Room Temperature aqueous phase comprising aqueous raw materials;

Step (B): Side Vessel - hot oily phase comprising oil raw materials in a temperature ranging from 75 ^QC to 80 ^QC;

Step (C): the oily phase of step (B) is added to the aqueous phase of step (A), after which the emulsifier is subsequently added, followed by mixing the mixture;

Embodiments

An example of a suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:

- from 15.0 % to 18.0 % of octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and ethylhexyl triazone;

- from 4.0 % to 6.0 % of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol and niacinamide;

- from 2.0 % to 3.0 % of xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate;

- from 0.4 % to 0.6 % of phenoxyethanol;

- from 4.0 % to 6.0 % of dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer;

- from 3.0 % to 4.0 % of potassium cetyl phosphate, poloxamer 338 and glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate;

- from 11.0 % to 17.5 % of glycerin, caprylyl glycol and C12-15 alkyl benzoate;

- from 3.5. % to 10.0 % of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients, such as vitamins, fillers, fatty compounds, fragrances, triethanolamine and disodium EDTA;

- from 40.0 % to 50.0 % of water.

Another suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:

- from 12.0 % to 17.0 % of octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and ethylhexyl triazone;

- from 0.5 % to 2.0 % of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid and phenylethyl resorcinol;

- from 2.0 % to 4.0 % of xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate;

- from 8.5 % to 12.0 % of titanium dioxide and iron oxides;

- from 0.4 % to 0.6 % of phenoxyethanol;

- from 10.0 % to 20.0 % of glycerin, caprylyl glycol and C12-15 alkyl benzoate;

- from 4.0 % to 8.0 % of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients, such as vitamins, fillers, fatty compounds, fragrances, triethanolamine and disodium EDTA;

- from 30.0 % to 40.0 % of water.

An additional suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:

- from 10.0 % to 20.0 % of octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane and ethylhexyl triazone;

- from 0.5 % to 1.5 % of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid and phenylethyl resorcinol;

- from 2.0 % to 5.0 % of xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate;

- from 6.5 % to 11.0 % of titanium dioxide and iron oxides;

- from 0.4 % to 0.6 % of phenoxyethanol;

- from 11.0 % to 17.5 % of glycerin, caprylyl glycol and C12-15 alkyl benzoate; - from 5.0 % to 10.0 % of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients, such as vitamins, fillers, fatty compounds, fragrances, triethanolamine and disodium EDTA;

- from 30.0 % to 40.0 % of water. Wherein all percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic sunscreen composition.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 5

A suitable composition according to the state of the art is as Example 1 and a suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention is as Examples 2 to 5, as follows:

Example 6 Safety Test 1

An in-vivo study was conducted with 50 adult volunteers, men and women aged between 18 and 70 years inclusive, for 28 days (± 2), in order to evaluate the cutaneous acceptability and subjective assessment of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 3, used in normal or reasonably predictable conditions under dermatological control.

The product was used during 28 days by the 50 adults, with all phototypes, with 2 visits (first day, DO and last day, D28). Each subject was her/his own control (comparison between before and after application).

The application of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention was performed by the subjects themselves, according to instructions provided by the team and presented on the subject’s diary.

As a conclusion, the composition according to Example 3 is cutaneous safe.

Furthermore, most of the subjects totally agreed or partially agreed that: the product has a light texture, has pleasant texture, does not leave the skin shiny, does not leave the skin oily, is quickly absorbed, does not leave the skin sticky, makes the skin more radiant/luminous, disguises the visible pores, gives a comfort touch, brightens the skin, the skin looks more uniform, leaves the skin softer, the skin feels more moisturized immediately after application, the skin feels moisturized throughout the day, the product plumps the skin, leaves the skin firmer, is easy to spread, does not clog pores and has a pleasant odor. Example 7

Safety Test 2

An in-vivo study was conducted with 33 adult volunteers, men and women aged between 23 and 67 years with phototypes II and III for six weeks, in order to demonstrate the absence of potential for photoallergy and skin phototoxicity of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, in maximized conditions, with controlled application area and quantity, accompanied by a dermatologist.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention according to Examples 2 and 3 and a control composition were applied to filter discs of a contact test (patch test) and then fixed on the right or left back (scapular area) of the volunteers, which was allowed to stay on the volunteer’s skin until removal by a trained professional and the area received ultraviolet irradiation A and B.

Dermatological clinical evaluation was carried out at the beginning and at the end of the study and the volunteers were accompanied by a dermatologist throughout the research.

During the study, no participant showed skin-related clinical signs related to the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, which also did not induce skin photoallergy in the study group and did not induce skin phototoxicity in the study group.

Therefore, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention was considered safe under the conditions evaluated.

Example 8

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

An in vivo study was conducted in order to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, before and after water immersion, of one topical use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to methodology ISO 24444 and guidelines Colipa 2005. The study was conducted with 16 female subjects, aged from 20 to 58 years old, with phototypes I to III, for 57 days.

The cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention according to Example 2 was applied on the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation. Then, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention was applied to another site, and after a period of 40 minutes, during which the study subject remained in a bathtub, the irradiation was repeated. The sites were evaluated after a period of 16-24 hours.

The mean static SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 3 was 62.0, and after immersion was 24.8.

Example 9 UVA Protection

An in vivo study was conducted in order to evaluate the efficacy of the UVA protection (PF-UVA) of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 2, according to the ISO 24442.

The study was conducted with 10 female subjects, aged from 21 to 48 years old, with phototypes III to IV, for 33 days.

The cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 2 demonstrated a PF-

UVA of 19.0.

Example 10 Consumer Use Test

An in-vivo study was conducted with 80 volunteers, women, aged from 35 to 55, with mix of skin tone and types, in order to understand the perception of users about the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Examples 2 to 5.

The volunteers were interviewed and gave their opinions concerning several aspects of the cosmetic sunscreen compositions, such as how easy they considered the application of the composition, how light was their texture, if they were easy to spread, the comfort of the texture, as well as results associated with the antiwrinkles and brightening spots efficacy. Such as if they felt the compositions attenuated and/or reduced skin imperfections, made their skin more filled, if prevented and repaired photoaging signs and expression lines.

For the cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Examples 4 to 5, additional features were evaluated, such as their capacity to even out skin spots and/or imperfections, high coverage and evening out the skin tone.

The cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention according to Examples 2 to 5 had very good consumer results, with high approval in all evaluated criteria.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . Cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy comprising:

(a) from 5.0 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter selected from octocrylene, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof;

(b) from 0.1 to 10.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one active compound selected from hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, ferulic acid, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) from 1 .5 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition, according to the claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one UV filter ranges from 10.0 to 17.0.0 % by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one active compound ranges from 0.8 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one polymer ranges from 2.5 to 4.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises from 5.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition, according to claim 5, wherein the amount of the at least one pigment ranges from 8.0 to 11.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from perfume/fragrance, polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional actives, surfactants, fat materials, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from 30 to 80.

9. Use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:

(c) from 1 .5 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof, wherein said use if for manufacturing a product for the photoprotection of keratinous materials with high SPF, antiwrinkles and anti-spots efficacy.

10. A process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:

(c) from 1 .5 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof; wherein the process comprises the steps of:

Step (A): Main Vessel - Hot oily phase comprising oil raw materials in a temperature ranging from 75 ^QC 80 ^QC; Step (B): Side Vessel - room temperature aqueous phase comprising aqueous raw materials;

(C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oil phase of step (A), after which the emulsifier is subsequently added, followed by mixing the mixture;

(D): the polymers are added to the mixture obtained in step (C), subsequently followed by a neutralization;

(E): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (D) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30^QC.

11. A process for manufacturing a cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:

(c) from 1 .5 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof;

(d) from 5.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof; wherein the process comprises the steps of:

Step (A): Main Vessel - Room Temperature aqueous phase comprising aqueous raw materials;

Step (D): the polymers are added to the mixture obtained in step (C), subsequently followed by a neutralization; Step (E): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (D) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 30^QC.