WO2022160020A1 - Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition - Google Patents
Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022160020A1 WO2022160020A1 PCT/BR2021/050045 BR2021050045W WO2022160020A1 WO 2022160020 A1 WO2022160020 A1 WO 2022160020A1 BR 2021050045 W BR2021050045 W BR 2021050045W WO 2022160020 A1 WO2022160020 A1 WO 2022160020A1
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- water
- weight
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 156
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 62
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 62
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 54
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 59
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- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 230000003711 photoprotective effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron oxide Inorganic materials [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- YCOKXGSMJCJMQZ-AMAPTOPXSA-K 5-O-bis[[(4S)-4-amino-5-octadecanoyloxy-5-oxopentanoyl]oxy]alumanyl 1-O-octadecanoyl (2S)-2-aminopentanedioate Chemical compound N[C@@H](CCC(=O)[O-])C(=O)OC(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)=O.[Al+3].C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(=O)OC([C@@H](N)CCC(=O)[O-])=O.C(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(=O)OC([C@@H](N)CCC(=O)[O-])=O YCOKXGSMJCJMQZ-AMAPTOPXSA-K 0.000 description 1
- ZVIJJZZVZCQINB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-n-(2-ethylhexyl)-2-n,4-n-bis[4-[5-(2-methylbutan-2-yl)-1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl]phenyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triamine Chemical compound CCC(C)(C)C1=CC=C2OC(C3=CC=C(C=C3)NC=3N=C(NC=4C=CC(=CC=4)C=4OC5=CC=C(C=C5N=4)C(C)(C)CC)N=C(N=3)NCC(CC)CCCC)=NC2=C1 ZVIJJZZVZCQINB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KHNVQXPXLJIGFS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 7-[(6-hydroxy-5-phenyl-2H-benzotriazol-4-yl)methyl]-6-phenyl-2H-benzotriazol-5-ol Chemical class C=1C=CC=CC=1C=1C(O)=CC=2NN=NC=2C=1CC(C=1N=NNC=1C=C1O)=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 KHNVQXPXLJIGFS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- BIQUJLSTLXZGTO-UHFFFAOYSA-N C(CC)(=O)O.C(C)C=1C(=C(C(=C2N(C(C(N2)=O)=O)CCCCCC)OC)C=CC1)OC Chemical compound C(CC)(=O)O.C(C)C=1C(=C(C(=C2N(C(C(N2)=O)=O)CCCCCC)OC)C=CC1)OC BIQUJLSTLXZGTO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000005940 Centaurea cyanus Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 240000004385 Centaurea cyanus Species 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003109 Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZGTMUACCHSMWAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L EDTA disodium salt (anhydrous) Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].OC(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC(O)=O)CC([O-])=O ZGTMUACCHSMWAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004472 Lysine Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 206010051246 Photodermatosis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 208000000453 Skin Neoplasms Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 206010042496 Sunburn Diseases 0.000 description 1
- WGLPBDUCMAPZCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Trioxochromium Chemical compound O=[Cr](=O)=O WGLPBDUCMAPZCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000006750 UV protection Effects 0.000 description 1
- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-LRVMPXQBSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(z)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C/C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-LRVMPXQBSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002730 additional effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000005250 alkyl acrylate group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000004411 aluminium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910021502 aluminium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960002709 amiloxate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N amiloxate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OCCC(C)C)C=C1 UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940064734 aminobenzoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- RWZYAGGXGHYGMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N anthranilic acid Chemical class NC1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O RWZYAGGXGHYGMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940058303 antinematodal benzimidazole derivative Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000637 arginyl group Chemical class N[C@@H](CCCNC(N)=N)C(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L azure blue Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[S-]S[S-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- SODJJEXAWOSSON-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)methanone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1O SODJJEXAWOSSON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YEAYGXLRPMKZBP-KQGICBIGSA-N bis(2-hydroxyethyl)azanium;(e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound OCCNCCO.COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(O)=O)C=C1 YEAYGXLRPMKZBP-KQGICBIGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011575 calcium Substances 0.000 description 1
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- CETPSERCERDGAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceric oxide Chemical compound O=[Ce]=O CETPSERCERDGAM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910000420 cerium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910000422 cerium(IV) oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910000423 chromium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N chromium;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Cr] QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000008367 deionised water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910021641 deionized water Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethanolamine Chemical class OCCNCCO ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(N(CC)CC)C=C1O FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019301 disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QDCHWIWENYCPIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;4-hydroxy-5-(2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-5-sulfonatobenzoyl)-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC(S([O-])(=O)=O)=C(OC)C=C1O QDCHWIWENYCPIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N drometrizole trisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)CC(C)CC1=CC(C)=CC(N2N=C3C=CC=CC3=N2)=C1O HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-UHFFFAOYSA-N ecamsule Chemical compound CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)C2=CC(C=C1)=CC=C1C=C1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229960004697 enzacamene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000032050 esterification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- IAJNXBNRYMEYAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoate Chemical group C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=C(C#N)C(=O)OCC)C1=CC=CC=C1 IAJNXBNRYMEYAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000014674 injury Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SOXAGEOHPCXXIO-DVOMOZLQSA-N menthyl anthranilate Chemical compound CC(C)[C@@H]1CC[C@@H](C)C[C@H]1OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1N SOXAGEOHPCXXIO-DVOMOZLQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002248 meradimate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DZVCFNFOPIZQKX-LTHRDKTGSA-M merocyanine Chemical class [Na+].O=C1N(CCCC)C(=O)N(CCCC)C(=O)C1=C\C=C\C=C/1N(CCCS([O-])(=O)=O)C2=CC=CC=C2O\1 DZVCFNFOPIZQKX-LTHRDKTGSA-M 0.000 description 1
- PVWXTVUZGJXFJQ-CCEZHUSRSA-N methyl (E)-4-methyl-3-phenyl-2-propan-2-ylpent-2-enoate Chemical compound COC(=O)C(\C(C)C)=C(/C(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 PVWXTVUZGJXFJQ-CCEZHUSRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011146 organic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- BMMGVYCKOGBVEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoceriooxy)cerium Chemical compound [Ce]=O.O=[Ce]=O BMMGVYCKOGBVEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940083254 peripheral vasodilators imidazoline derivative Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenylbenzene Natural products C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000008845 photoaging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920000747 poly(lactic acid) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004626 polylactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940100498 polysilicone-15 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002282 polysilicones-15 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N propan-2-yl (e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OC(C)C)C=C1 XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000008132 rose water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000021317 sensory perception Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 201000000849 skin cancer Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;5-benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 KJCLYACXIWMFCC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000001179 sorption measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008833 sun damage Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006228 supernatant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003751 zinc Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
Definitions
- WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION USE OF A WATER-IN- OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
- the present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified.
- the present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
- UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
- the degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is related to the amount, type and combination of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, particularly a minimum UVA protection factor, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
- SPF Sun Protection Factor
- a cosmetic sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties.
- a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with the capability of tinting the skin to correct imperfections, preferably with high coverage and velvety feeling on the skin, that is capable of suiting different skin tones, thereby providing a makeup effect.
- the degree of coverage provided by a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition.
- the velvety feeling on the skin is obtained by using silicone in the formulation, particularly dimethicone.
- tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions results in stability issues in the formulation, especially the migration of the pigments to the surface of the composition, even creating discoloration spots on said surface.
- the silicone tends to separate from the composition, resulting in a separate phase, which is not desired. These issues are intensified in darker shades of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
- Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought-after galenical forms, due to the ease with which they are applied to the skin and their sensory properties in cosmetics in the care field, particularly in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in anti-ageing compositions and in makeup, such as foundation.
- Water-in-oil emulsions do not always exhibit, on the one hand, storage stability that is entirely satisfactory equally at low temperatures (i.e: 4°C), at ambient temperature (i.e: 25°C) and at high temperatures (i.e: 45°C and 55°C) and, on the other hand, sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory, such as softness, a non-tacky effect, a non-greasy effect, velvety feeling on the skin, a feeling of lightness after application, or a good glide.
- a water-in-oil tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF and a high quantity of pigments in order to provide a high color coverage payoff when applied to the skin is desired, which is stable, provides sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory and does not present migration and separation of pigments and silicone on the surface of the composition.
- the inventors of the present invention have surprisingly managed to develop a tinted water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection and high amounts of pigments, providing a high coverage effect similar to a makeup on the skin, while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.
- the present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified.
- the present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
- Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 demonstrate the results of the Stability Test of Example 1 1 , wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5, while Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Examples 8 and 10.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:
- the amount of the at least one pigment in the water- in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of dimethicone in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 10.0 to about 13.0 % by weight.
- the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
- water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may further comprise additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention has a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from about 30 to about 80, more preferably from about 40 to about 70, even more preferably of about 60.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a SPF of about 30, about 35, about 40, about 45, about 50, about 55, about 60, about 65, about 70, about 75 or about 80.
- the UVA protection factor provided by the composition according to the present invention is at least 20.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for the skin, particularly for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin.
- the present invention also relates to the use of said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition for manufacturing a product for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin with high SPF and with high color coverage.
- the present invention is directed to a process for manufacturing said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, wherein the process comprises the steps of: i) adding to a main vessel the water, the UV filter, the dimethicone and the optionally additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients at a temperature ranging from about 20 to about 60 °C, ii) adding to the main vessel the at least one pigment at a temperature ranging from about 25 to about 30 °C.
- the step (i) is carried out in two different sub steps, wherein: 1.1 ) the aqueous phase ingredients are firstly mixed to each other in the main vessel, therefore forming an aqueous phase, and
- water-in-oil composition and similar mean a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, also referred as inverse emulsion.
- dimethicone means at least one silicone ingredient having INCI name dimethicone.
- the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
- a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
- All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
- compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
- a mixture thereof also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
- A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
- A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
- the term, “a mixture thereof’ does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
- a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
- the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A,
- B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B,
- C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
- the salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
- compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.
- pigments is intended to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
- the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
- mineral pigment is intended to mean any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
- mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
- the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, TiaOs, TiaOa, TiO, ZrOa as a mixture with TiC , ZrO2, Nb20s, CeO2, ZnS.
- the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
- examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
- Other preferred examples include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide.
- the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
- the coating may represent from about 0.1 to about 20.0 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
- the coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
- the coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is in particular described in patent US 4 578 266.
- the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments.
- the amount of the at least one pigment in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, preferably from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the UV filters of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients and water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients.
- Non-limiting suitable organic UV filters of the present invention are further described below.
- oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
- Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
- cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
- Suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
- suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
- Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives
- Suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
- benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate +” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
- Suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
- Suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
- triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)s triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US
- An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate.
- An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
- Benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
- An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.
- benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
- the “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
- Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated
- the salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.
- Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.
- the sodium salt is preferably used.
- the at least one UV filter of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one UV filter includes ethylhexyl salicylate in a concentration of no more than about 5.0 % by weight.
- the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention preferably ranges from about 15.0 to about 35.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, even more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water.
- the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le- Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from T ercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
- Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranging from about 1 :0.30 to about 1 :0.55, more preferably from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, even more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
- the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
- Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
- composition may also comprise at least one silicone ingredient different than dimethicone, which may be caprylyl methicone, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, among others.
- Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
- Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.
- Adequate surfactants may be selected from fatty acid ester of a polyol chosen from the esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of 12-hydroxystearic acid; (ii) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, and (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
- the fatty acid ester of a polyol is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate.
- Adequate surfactants are also selected from polyethylene glycol esters, particularly PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
- the solvents other than water are present in a concentration from about 0.5 to about 30.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
- Suitable additional actives compounds include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, magnesium sulfate, caffeine and mixtures thereof.
- the composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica, and kaolin.
- at least one filler such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica, and kaolin.
- Preferred embodiments of mica include synthetic mica having INCI name synthetic fluorphlogopite.
- Suitable vitamins according to the present invention may include niacinamide and tocopherol.
- the additional ingredients may represent from about 10.0 to about 60.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 55.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 50.0 %, or such as from about 15.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- An example of a suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
- Another suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
- Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the state-of- the-art are represented in Examples 1 to 5 and suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are represented by Examples 6 to 10, as follows:
- a test was performed in order to evaluate the stability of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of Examples 8 and 10 of the present invention, compared to the stability of a state-of-the-art composition of Example 5.
- compositions were placed in stability from 16 to 72 hours, after manufacture, in both containing glasses, which were then submitted to:
- compositions were then microscopic and macroscopic evaluated, in order to assess their behavior of stability and physical chemistry.
- Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5 and Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive compositions according to Examples 8 and 10.
- compositions according to Examples 8 and 10 did not present instability of the formulation, nor migration of the pigments or dimethicone to the surface, whereas the composition of Example 5 was clearly instable, with a behavior of migration of red iron oxide and dimethicone, resulting in a silicone supernatant.
Abstract
The present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
Description
WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A WATER-IN- OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is related to the amount, type and combination of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, particularly a minimum UVA protection factor, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.
Furthermore, it is also desirable to produce a cosmetic sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties. For example, it is desired to produce a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with the capability of tinting the skin to correct imperfections, preferably with high coverage and velvety feeling on the skin, that is capable of suiting different skin tones, thereby providing a makeup effect.
The degree of coverage provided by a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition. The velvety feeling on the skin is obtained by using silicone
in the formulation, particularly dimethicone.
However, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because the presence of high amounts of pigments and UV filters in tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions results in stability issues in the formulation, especially the migration of the pigments to the surface of the composition, even creating discoloration spots on said surface. Moreover, the silicone tends to separate from the composition, resulting in a separate phase, which is not desired. These issues are intensified in darker shades of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions.
Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought-after galenical forms, due to the ease with which they are applied to the skin and their sensory properties in cosmetics in the care field, particularly in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in anti-ageing compositions and in makeup, such as foundation.
Water-in-oil emulsions do not always exhibit, on the one hand, storage stability that is entirely satisfactory equally at low temperatures (i.e: 4°C), at ambient temperature (i.e: 25°C) and at high temperatures (i.e: 45°C and 55°C) and, on the other hand, sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory, such as softness, a non-tacky effect, a non-greasy effect, velvety feeling on the skin, a feeling of lightness after application, or a good glide.
Therefore, a water-in-oil tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF and a high quantity of pigments, in order to provide a high color coverage payoff when applied to the skin is desired, which is stable, provides sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory and does not present migration and separation of pigments and silicone on the surface of the composition.
The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly managed to develop a tinted water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition with high SPF, with satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection and high amounts of pigments, providing a high coverage effect similar to a makeup on the skin, while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to new water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is specified. The present invention is also directed to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen
composition and to a process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 demonstrate the results of the Stability Test of Example 1 1 , wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5, while Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Examples 8 and 10.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In an embodiment, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) from about 10.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;
(b) from about 15.0 to about 35.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter;
(c) from about 8.0 to about 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and
(d) water wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from about 1 :0.30 to about 1 :0.55.
In an embodiment, the amount of the at least one pigment in the water- in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the amount of dimethicone in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about
15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably from about 10.0 to about 13.0 % by weight.
In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
Moreover, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may further comprise additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention has a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from about 30 to about 80, more preferably from about 40 to about 70, even more preferably of about 60. In various embodiments, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may present a SPF of about 30, about 35, about 40, about 45, about 50, about 55, about 60, about 65, about 70, about 75 or about 80. In a preferred embodiment, the UVA protection factor provided by the composition according to the present invention is at least 20.
The water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for the skin, particularly for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin.
The present invention also relates to the use of said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition for manufacturing a product for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin with high SPF and with high color coverage.
Moreover, the present invention is directed to a process for manufacturing said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, wherein the process comprises the steps of: i) adding to a main vessel the water, the UV filter, the dimethicone and the optionally additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients at a temperature ranging from about 20 to about 60 °C, ii) adding to the main vessel the at least one pigment at a temperature ranging from about 25 to about 30 °C.
In a preferred embodiment of the process according to the present invention, the step (i) is carried out in two different sub steps, wherein:
1.1 ) the aqueous phase ingredients are firstly mixed to each other in the main vessel, therefore forming an aqueous phase, and
1.2) the oily ingredients are subsequently added to the aqueous phase, individually, therefore forming an emulsion.
Terms
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “water-in-oil composition” and similar mean a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, also referred as inverse emulsion.
As used herein, the term “dimethicone” means at least one silicone ingredient having INCI name dimethicone.
As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
The terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular. Thus, the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.” Throughout the disclosure, the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.” The term, “a mixture thereof’ does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E,
and F.”
All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10 %, +/- 8 %, +/- 6 %, +/- 5 %, +/- 4 %, +/- 3 %, +/- 2 %, +/- 1 %, or +/- 0.5 %.
Likewise, the term “a salt thereof” also relates to “salts thereof.” Thus, where the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A,
B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B,
C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.
Pigments
The water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.
The term “pigments” is intended to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may
be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
The term “mineral pigment” is intended to mean any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, TiaOs, TiaOa, TiO, ZrOa as a mixture with TiC , ZrO2, Nb20s, CeO2, ZnS.
In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI by the company Miyoshi Kasei. Other preferred examples include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium hydroxide.
For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
The coating may represent from about 0.1 to about 20.0 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
The coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
The coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is in particular described in patent US 4 578 266.
The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the
pigments.
The amount of the at least one pigment in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention ranges from about 10.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, preferably from about 10.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 15.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
UV Filters
The UV filters of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients and water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients. Non-limiting suitable organic UV filters of the present invention are further described below.
Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient
The “oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oil fatty phase.
Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4- diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1 133980 and EP1 133981 , merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 ; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their
entirety.
As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
Cinnamic derivatives:
Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
Salicylic derivatives:
Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.
Beta, beta -Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
Examples of suitable beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.
Benzophenone derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate +” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.
Triazine derivatives:
Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl
butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)s triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2,4, 6-tris(biphenyl)-1 ,3, 5-triazines (in particular 2,4, 6-tris(biphenyl-4- yl)-1 ,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991 , WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985).
Anthranilic derivatives:
An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate.
Imidazoline derivatives:
An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
An example of a suitable Benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance polysilicone-15.
4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.
Benzoxazole derivatives:
An example of suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient
The “water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
(Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-Bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference; and cinnamido amine cationic quaternary salts and derivatives such as those described in United States Patent 5,601 ,81 1 , the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference, and mixtures thereof.
The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; salts of ammonium of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.
In a preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate and mixtures thereof. In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter includes ethylhexyl salicylate in a concentration of no more than about 5.0 % by weight.
The amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention preferably ranges from about 15.0 to about 35.0 % by weight, more preferably from about 20.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, even more preferably from about 20.0 to about 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Water
The water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile
water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le- Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from T ercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.
In a preferred embodiment, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranging from about 1 :0.30 to about 1 :0.55, more preferably from about 1 :0.35 to about 1 :0.50, even more preferably from about 1 :0.40 to about 1 :0.45.
Additional Ingredients
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates/Cio-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, styrene/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise at least one silicone ingredient different than dimethicone, which may be caprylyl methicone, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, among others.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.
Adequate surfactants may be selected from fatty acid ester of a polyol chosen from the esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of 12-hydroxystearic acid; (ii) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, and (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid ester of a polyol is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate. Adequate surfactants are also selected from polyethylene glycol esters, particularly PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
In various embodiments, the solvents other than water are present in a concentration from about 0.5 to about 30.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 25.0 % by weight, or from about 5.0 to about 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the combinations and/or compositions of the present disclosure.
Suitable additional actives compounds include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, magnesium sulfate, caffeine and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica, and kaolin. Preferred embodiments of mica include synthetic mica having INCI name synthetic fluorphlogopite.
Suitable vitamins according to the present invention may include niacinamide and tocopherol.
The additional ingredients may represent from about 10.0 to about 60.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 55.0 %, such as from about 15.0 to about 50.0 %, or such as from about 15.0 to about 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following embodiments and examples.
EMBODIMENTS
An example of a suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
- from 9.0 to 16.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;
- from 1 .0 to 3.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of synthetic fluorphlogopite;
- from 20.0 to 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and homosalate;
- from 10.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone;
- water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.35 to 1 :0.50;
- from 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propylene glycol;
- from 1 .0 to 3.0 % of magnesium sulfate and caffeine;
- from 0.1 to 2.0 % of disteardimonium hectorite;
- from 0.1 to 1 .5 % of phenoxyethanol;
- from 1 .0 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer;
- from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
- from 1 .0 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of niacinamide and tocopherol; and
- from 5.0 to 15.0% of propanediol and ethanol.
Another suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:
- from 1.0 to 10.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;
- from 8.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;
- from 1 .0 to 3.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of synthetic fluorphlogopite;
- from 20.0 to 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and homosalate;
- from 10.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition, of dimethicone;
- water, wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.35 to 1 :0.50;
- from 0.1 to 2.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propylene glycol;
- from 1 .0 to 3.0 % of magnesium sulfate and caffeine;
- from 0.1 to 2.0 % of disteardimonium hectorite;
- from 0.1 to 1 .5 % of phenoxyethanol;
- from 1 .0 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer;
- from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
- from 1 .0 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of niacinamide and tocopherol; and
- from 5.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propanediol and ethanol.
EXAMPLES
Examples 1 to 10
Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the state-of- the-art are represented in Examples 1 to 5 and suitable water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are represented by Examples 6 to 10, as follows:
Example 11 Stability Test
A test was performed in order to evaluate the stability of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of Examples 8 and 10 of the present invention, compared to the stability of a state-of-the-art composition of Example 5.
The compositions were placed in stability from 16 to 72 hours, after manufacture, in both containing glasses, which were then submitted to:
- 1 week at 55 SC;
- 1 month at 45 SC; and
- 2 months at 45 SC.
After these periods, the compositions were then microscopic and macroscopic evaluated, in order to assess their behavior of stability and physical chemistry.
The results are demonstrated in Figs. 1 , 2 and 3 wherein Fig. 1 is related to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5 and Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively related to the results of the inventive compositions according to Examples 8 and 10.
As can be seen, the compositions according to Examples 8 and 10 did not present instability of the formulation, nor migration of the pigments or dimethicone to the surface, whereas the composition of Example 5 was clearly instable, with a behavior of migration of red iron oxide and dimethicone, resulting in a silicone supernatant.
Claims
1. Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, particularly for caring, for making up and for photoprotection of the skin, comprising:
(a) from 10.0 to 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;
(b) from 15.0 to 35.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter;
(c) from 8.0 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and
(d) water wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.30 to 1 :0.55.
2. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one pigment is selected from mineral pigments, preferably selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one pigment ranges from 10.0 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one UV filter is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one UV filter ranges from 20.0 to 30.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition, according to the claim 1 , wherein the amount of dimethicone ranges from 10.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition, according to the claim 1 , wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.35 to 1 :0.50.
8. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preserving agents, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from 30 to 80.
10. A use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) from 10.0 to 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;
(b) from 15.0 to 35.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter;
(c) from 8.0 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and
(d) water wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.30 to 1 :0.55 for manufacturing a product for caring, for making up and for the photoprotection of the skin.
1 1. A process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:
(a) from 10.0 to 25.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;
(b) from 15.0 to 35.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter;
(c) from 8.0 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and
(d) water wherein the weight ratio between water and dimethicone ranges from 1 :0.30 to 1 :0.55, wherein the process comprises the steps of: i) adding to a main vessel the water, UV filter, dimethicone and optionally additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients at a temperature ranging from 20 to 60 °C, ii) adding to the main vessel the at least one pigment at a temperature ranging from 25 to 30 °C.
Priority Applications (5)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2021/050045 WO2022160020A1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition |
| CN202180091426.0A CN116829119A (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition and method for producing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition |
| JP2023546110A JP2024504488A (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, uses of water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, and methods for producing water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions |
| EP21704168.0A EP4284320A1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition |
| FR2103498A FR3119316A1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-04-06 | COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, USE OF A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MAKING A COSMETIC WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION |
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|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/BR2021/050045 WO2022160020A1 (en) | 2021-01-29 | 2021-01-29 | Water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and process for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition |
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| WO2022160020A1 true WO2022160020A1 (en) | 2022-08-04 |
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|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP4284320A1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP2024504488A (en) |
| CN (1) | CN116829119A (en) |
| FR (1) | FR3119316A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2022160020A1 (en) |
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-
2021
- 2021-01-29 EP EP21704168.0A patent/EP4284320A1/en active Pending
- 2021-01-29 CN CN202180091426.0A patent/CN116829119A/en active Pending
- 2021-01-29 JP JP2023546110A patent/JP2024504488A/en active Pending
- 2021-01-29 WO PCT/BR2021/050045 patent/WO2022160020A1/en active Application Filing
- 2021-04-06 FR FR2103498A patent/FR3119316A1/en active Pending
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| US2463264A (en) | 1942-12-23 | 1949-03-01 | Ciba Ltd | Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same |
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR3119316A1 (en) | 2022-08-05 |
| JP2024504488A (en) | 2024-01-31 |
| CN116829119A (en) | 2023-09-29 |
| EP4284320A1 (en) | 2023-12-06 |
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