EP2498631B1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines kleidungsstückes - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines kleidungsstückes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2498631B1
EP2498631B1 EP10790686.9A EP10790686A EP2498631B1 EP 2498631 B1 EP2498631 B1 EP 2498631B1 EP 10790686 A EP10790686 A EP 10790686A EP 2498631 B1 EP2498631 B1 EP 2498631B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
semi
padded
manufactured pieces
garment
colour
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP10790686.9A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2498631A1 (de
Inventor
Roberto Grotto
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Grotto SpA
Original Assignee
Grotto SpA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Grotto SpA filed Critical Grotto SpA
Priority to PL10790686T priority Critical patent/PL2498631T3/pl
Publication of EP2498631A1 publication Critical patent/EP2498631A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2498631B1 publication Critical patent/EP2498631B1/de
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/003—Transfer printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/003—Transfer printing
    • D06P5/004—Transfer printing using subliming dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
    • A41D3/02—Overcoats
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B41—PRINTING; LINING MACHINES; TYPEWRITERS; STAMPS
    • B41M—PRINTING, DUPLICATING, MARKING, OR COPYING PROCESSES; COLOUR PRINTING
    • B41M5/00—Duplicating or marking methods; Sheet materials for use therein
    • B41M5/025—Duplicating or marking methods; Sheet materials for use therein by transferring ink from the master sheet
    • B41M5/035—Duplicating or marking methods; Sheet materials for use therein by transferring ink from the master sheet by sublimation or volatilisation of pre-printed design, e.g. sublistatic

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a method for producing a garment, such as, by way of pure example, a padded and quitted jacket.
  • the invention herewith described refers, also, to a garment obtained through the aforesaid producing method.
  • a padded body for example with synthetic or down or duck feathers in their different qualities, provided with two fabric coatings joined together by a quilting working at respective perimetric edges, so as to enclose the padding between the fabric coatings themselves.
  • the fabric coatings are connected through quilting applied at a plurality of seam lines equally spaced apart and substantially parallel each other, defined on the side faces of the coating and, thus, internal to the perimetric edges cited above.
  • this category of garment provides, in the essential features that affect the present discussion, firstly the arrangement of one or more padded semi-manufactured pieces typically intended in tailoring to compose a garment, for example a shoulder wear, and having a fabric coating such as polyamide (for example Nylon®) or polyester.
  • a fabric coating such as polyamide (for example Nylon®) or polyester.
  • the current techniques comprise the execution of the quilting working of the padded semi-manufactured piece, at the end of which, then, the finished garment is obtained.
  • Prior art document EP 1166661 A1 discloses a method for forming irregularities on a garment
  • the document US 2007/0163057 relates to a method for simultaneously sublimating two or more dyes on the opposite sides of a single layer fabric and to a single layer, double-side garment produced thereby
  • the document US 4084675 describes a garment construction for providing a down-filled jacket comprising a plurality of separately constructable panels which are stitched together.
  • a first limitation of the prior art in exam is correlated to the typical sequence previously mentioned of the operations that must be performed to produce the garment and, in particular, to the fact that the quilting working follows the operation of decoration or surface finishing of the fabric coating of the semi-manufactured pieces.
  • the aesthetic effect which can be attributed to a garment by a given decoration is unique and well-defined and that, however small, still represents a production limit which interferes with producer's work relating to the policy of proposal for new models of clothing able to clearly distinguish him in the market in view of a competitive advantage over his competitors.
  • the present invention seeks to overcome the limitations of the prior art as just set out.
  • main purpose of the invention is to develop a method for producing a garment which allows the manufacturer an operative freedom greater than the current state of the art.
  • primary purpose of the present invention is to implement a method for producing a garment which frees the manufacturer from the need to know what will be the final finishing required to the finished product still before to carry out the quilting of the garment itself.
  • the method of the invention allows to broaden compared to the equivalent known art the range of aesthetic effects associated with a padded and quilted garment, as well as the variety of aesthetic effects which can be got by using a well-defined and precise colour, image, figure, drawing, photo and the like.
  • the method of the invention can be implemented with yet existing equipment, without the need for substantial investments in new and sophisticated production equipment.
  • the method object of the present invention by providing the stage of quilting before the stage of application of the colour and/or any other decorative element, allows the manufacturer to defer with respect to equivalent known procedures the moment when the garment takes its final appearance.
  • the method of the invention allows the manufacturer to increase the flexibility of the production batch, understood as the minimum number of finished items which can be manufactured per version, and thus quickly meet even the last trends in the market and customization requirements even of a single garment.
  • the garment of the invention is illustrated in figure 1 and 2 , where it is globally indicated with 1, in one of its possible embodiments which, as can be seen, in this case consists of a fashion jacket usually worn by the young.
  • the garment 1 comprises in this case three padded and quitted bodies 2, 3, 4, each of which provide with a fabric coating 5, for example synthetic, finished with a colour 6 chosen at will and/or according to customer's requirements.
  • the padded body 2 represents the bust, while the padded bodies 3 and 4 represent the respective sleeves of the jacket.
  • Various padded bodies 2, 3, 4 forming the garment 1 are also connected each other through union means, as a whole indicated with 8, of the type in itself known to the person skilled in the art, for example a seam cord.
  • the coating fabric 5 of the only padded and quilted body marked with 2 is also provided on the front face 5a with a series of images, overall indicated with 7, of various motif and composition.
  • the colour and the images of padded bodies 2, 3, 4 present an irregular, uneven and not uniform trend.
  • Figure 3 shows another embodiment of the invention in which the garment, now globally numbered with 50, differs from that one shown in figure 1 and 2 and previously described by virtue of comprising, also, a decorative laminar strip 55 coupled through junction means, not visible, with the padded body 51 at quilting areas 54 thereof.
  • the decorative laminar strip 55 presents colour 56 which differs from the colour 53 of the fabric coating 52 of the padded body 51 itself.
  • junction means cited above are of the type in itself known to the person skilled in the art and include, for example, proper sticky substances or stitches.
  • the method for producing the garment 1, object of the present invention and illustrated in figures 1 and 2 includes the following operations:
  • the operation of creating, the irregularity zones in the semi-manufactured pieces consists in defining colour reserves at the quilting zones of the padded semi-manufactured pieces by applying a colour 6, an image 7 and/or similar to the fabric coating 5 of the padded and quilted semi-manufactured pieces in order to decorate or finish the fabric coating 5 of the semi-manufactured pieces.
  • the main peculiarity of the method of the invention stands I the fact that the irregularity zones in the semi-manufactured pieces are spontaneously created by and directly derive from the operation of applying the colour 6, image 7 and/or the similar to the fabric coating 5 of the padded and quilted semi-manufactured pieces in order to decorate or finish the fabric coating 5 of the semi-manufactured pieces: at that point, therefore, the operation of applying the colour 6, image 7 and/or similar itself defines colour reserves at the quilting zones of the padded semi-manufactured pieces.
  • the garment 1, understood as finished product, is definitively obtained.
  • the operation of applying the colour 6, image 7 and/or similar to the fabric coating 5 consists in the operation of transferring through sublimation printing the colour 6, image 7 and/or similar from a laminar support sheet, not visible and made of for example paper, containing the colour 6, image 7 and/or similar themselves to the fabric coating 5.
  • the operation of sublimation printing is performed by through a press machine acting by squashing on both side faces 5a, 5b opposite each other of each of the fabric coating 5 of the padded semi-manufactured pieces.
  • the operation of sublimation printing preferably but not necessarily occurs at a temperature between substantially 180°C and 210°C, depending on the materials used, and for a duration between substantially 20 and 50 seconds.
  • the fabric coating 5 of the semi-manufactured pieces is a synthetic fabric, for example a polyamide such as nylon® or polyester.
  • the semi-manufactured pieces are, instead, padded with any of the materials selected from the group consisting of down feathers, plume feathers, duck feathers, synthetic feathers and/or their appropriate combinations.
  • the method for producing the garment 50 includes the operation of coupling, at the quilting areas 54 (as said referred to as "reserves", once the application of the colour, image and/or similar has been completed) of the padded semi-manufactured piece shown in figure 3 , the decorative laminar strip 55 having colour 56 different from the colour 53 transferred to the fabric coating 52.
  • the operation of coupling he laminar strip 55 to the semi-manufactured piece is performed after the operation of quilting the padded body 51 and the operation of applying the colour 53 to the aforesaid fabric coating 52.
  • the method of the invention allows to broaden, event in surprising manner with respect to the results traditionally obtained with the methods now solely followed in the field, the range of aesthetic effects of a padded and at least partly quilted garment, by applying to it a colour, image, photo, drawing and so on of a given type.
  • the new and surprising result combined to the present invention derives from the fact that the operation of applying the colour, image and/or similar occurs when the padded body that marks the garment has been already quilted: this prevents, in fact, the colour or image enters into the quilting areas which thus become real colour "reserves".
  • these quilting areas retain the original colour, such as white or yellow, with which they are made or the colour of the decorative laminar strip firmly coupled through junction means before applying the colour, image and/or similar.
  • the garment of the invention comprises a number of padded and quilted bodies different form that one shown in the drawings that follow, this number could vary at will starting from one: in case of a single padded body, for example, the garment of the invention could represent a padded waistcoat.
  • the garment of the invention could include a plurality of padded bodies, only one or in any case some of which not all quilted.
  • the fabric coating of one or more of the padded bodies could present a group of colours variously mixed and made up one to another, in order to give rise to the most diverse and desired aesthetic effects, which does not affect the advantages brought by the present invention.
  • the padded and quilted bodies of the garment could be colourless or present any colour, depending on the final appearance.
  • the garment of the invention could be constituted by any clothes and/or accessory which can be worn or however brought by a person different from the racket just described by way of purely illustrative title, with the aid of the appended drawings: among such quilted clothes or accessory included in the field of the present invention handbags, caps, scarf, shoes and so on are counted.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Outerwear In General, And Traditional Japanese Garments (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Kleidungsstücks (1; 50) umfassend die folgenden Arbeitsgänge:
    - Bereitstellen von einem oder mehreren gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücken (2, 3, 4; 51), die das Kleidungsstück (1; 50) bilden sollen und jeweils eine Gewebebeschichtung (5; 52) haben;
    - Absteppen von mindestens einem der gepolsterten, halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) gemäß einem vorgegebenen Muster;
    - Erzeugen von Irregularitätszonen in der Gewebeoberfläche von mindestens einem der ausgepolsterten und abgesteppten halbgefertigten Stücke durch Aufbringen einer Farbe (6; 53) und/oder eines Bildes (7) ähnlich zu den halbgefertigten Stücken (2, 3, 4) durch Sublimationsdrucken der Farbe (6; 53) und/oder des Bildes (7) ähnlich von einem flächigen Halteblatt, welches die Farbe (6; 53) und/oder das Bild (7) ähnlich der Gewebebeschichtung (5; 52) der halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) beinhaltet, wobei das Sublimationsdrucken auf diese Weise auf den gepolsterten und abgesteppten halbgefertigten Stücken (2, 3, 4) stattfindet, so dass die Irregularitätszonen zu Farbirregularitätszonen entsprechend mindestens einer der abgesteppten Zonen (54) von mindestens einem der gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4) führen;
    - Zusammenfügen der gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51), um das Kleidungsstück (1; 50) zu erhalten.
  2. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Vorgang des Sublimationsdruckens durch eine Pressmaschine ausgeführt wird, die arbeitet, indem sie auf mindestens eine der gegenüberliegenden Seitenflächen (5a, 5b) der Gewebebeschichtung (5; 52) von mindestens einem der gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) drückt.
  3. Verfahren gemäß einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Vorgang des Sublimationsdruckens bei einer Temperatur zwischen im Wesentlichen 180°C und 210°C in Anhängigkeit von den verwendeten Materialien erfolgt und für eine Dauer zwischen im Wesentlichen 20 und 50 Sekunden.
  4. Verfahren gemäß einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gewebe der Beschichtung (5, 52) der gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) synthetisch ist.
  5. Verfahren gemäß einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass jedes der halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) gepolstert ist mit einem Material, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die aus Eiderentenfedern, Entenfeder, Eiderentendaunen, synthetischen Federn und/oder Kombinationen davon besteht.
  6. Verfahren gemäß einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) die eleganten Teile des Kleidungsstücks (1; 50) bilden.
  7. Verfahren gemäß einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es den Vorgang einschließt des Verbindens eines dekorativen flächigen Streifens (55) mit einer Farbgebung (56) anders als die Farbe (53) und/oder das Bild (7), das auf die Gewebebeschichtung (51) übertragen ist, entsprechend mindestens einem der abgesteckten Bereiche (54) von mindestens einem der gepolsterten halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51), wobei der Vorgang des Verbindens des flächigen Streifens (55) mit mindestens einem der halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) durchgeführt wird nach dem Vorgang des Absteppens von mindestens einem der halbgefertigten Stücke (2, 3, 4; 51) und dem Vorgang des Applizierens der Farbe (53) und/oder des Bildes (7) ähnlich der Gewebebeschichtung (52).
EP10790686.9A 2009-11-11 2010-11-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines kleidungsstückes Not-in-force EP2498631B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PL10790686T PL2498631T3 (pl) 2009-11-11 2010-11-10 Sposób wytwarzania odzieży

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITVI2009A000273A IT1396825B1 (it) 2009-11-11 2009-11-11 Metodo per la produzione di un capo di abbigliamento
PCT/IT2010/000447 WO2011058591A1 (en) 2009-11-11 2010-11-10 Method for producing a garment

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2498631A1 EP2498631A1 (de) 2012-09-19
EP2498631B1 true EP2498631B1 (de) 2013-10-09

Family

ID=42268898

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP10790686.9A Not-in-force EP2498631B1 (de) 2009-11-11 2010-11-10 Verfahren zur herstellung eines kleidungsstückes

Country Status (9)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2498631B1 (de)
JP (1) JP2013510959A (de)
CN (1) CN102781267B (de)
ES (1) ES2441645T3 (de)
IT (1) IT1396825B1 (de)
PL (1) PL2498631T3 (de)
PT (1) PT2498631E (de)
RU (1) RU2530874C2 (de)
WO (1) WO2011058591A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113331519B (zh) * 2021-07-22 2022-04-01 于军 一种羽绒服拼接工艺

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4048675A (en) * 1976-01-12 1977-09-20 Plain Brown Wrapper, Inc. Jacket construction
US4084675A (en) 1976-08-24 1978-04-18 Dynapar Corporation Potentiometer having improved operating means
DE2826933C2 (de) * 1978-06-20 1980-04-24 Anton 8500 Nuernberg Gerhard Zur Aufnahme einer Abdeckkappe geeignete Kreuzschlitz-Schraube und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung
US4665851A (en) * 1986-09-26 1987-05-19 Sweet Paula J Method of assembling textiles
RU2078695C1 (ru) * 1996-04-09 1997-05-10 Антонов Андрей Илларионович Способ нанесения рисунка на текстильное изделие
IT1287470B1 (it) * 1996-09-04 1998-08-06 Float Srl Semilavorato a bassa densita' per la fabbricazione di prodotti galleggianti
US5692245A (en) * 1996-12-19 1997-12-02 Reuben; Ronnie Thin down-fill inner lining fabric and method of manufacture
JP3049058B1 (ja) * 1998-12-28 2000-06-05 株式会社オンワード樫山 衣服の布地に凹凸を形成する方法
US20070163057A1 (en) * 2005-12-23 2007-07-19 Andrea Bertele System and method for simultaneous sublimation printing on both sides of a single layer of fabric and double-sided garment produced thereby
RU2365318C2 (ru) * 2007-04-10 2009-08-27 Андриевский Александр Михайлович Одежда специальная сигнальная, люминесцентный сигнальный элемент и материал для его изготовления
CN101590751A (zh) * 2009-06-24 2009-12-02 周福根 胶印热转印纸的生产及其转印的方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2498631A1 (de) 2012-09-19
WO2011058591A1 (en) 2011-05-19
IT1396825B1 (it) 2012-12-14
PT2498631E (pt) 2014-01-15
CN102781267B (zh) 2015-06-17
ITVI20090273A1 (it) 2011-05-12
RU2530874C2 (ru) 2014-10-20
CN102781267A (zh) 2012-11-14
JP2013510959A (ja) 2013-03-28
RU2012123437A (ru) 2013-12-20
ES2441645T3 (es) 2014-02-05
PL2498631T3 (pl) 2014-05-30

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