EP2473234A2

EP2473234A2 - Cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol

Info

Publication number: EP2473234A2
Application number: EP10732949A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Melanie Giesen; Thomas Welss; Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-07-23
Filing date: 2010-07-13
Publication date: 2012-07-11
Also published as: DE102009044977A1; WO2011009763A2; WO2011009763A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol as well as to the use of said cosmetic to influence the natural pigmentation process of skin and/or skin appendages.

Description

Cosmetic agent containing purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol

The invention relates to a cosmetic agent containing purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, as well as their use for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.

So far, the causes of hair graying are not combated, but the hair is treated for gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and thus damaging the hair colorations. In addition, customers often complain of lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be re-dyed regularly). The effectiveness of currently isolated on the market biological products is not scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the graying process directly at the root, are not used.

Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior. GpIOO is a protein of the melanosome membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research. The prior art (WO91 / 07945) discloses the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair.

EP 2 014 276 A1 discloses a mixture of sclareolide and hesperidin methyl chalcone (HMC) which is intended to be used to prevent the hair graying and / or darkening of hair.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide alternative active ingredients or active agent combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable, the natural pigmentation process, especially in the hair or hair follicles, to influence even better without the disadvantages of the known methods known in the art for influencing hair color and degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair.

The object is achieved by a cosmetic agent containing purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol. The cosmetic composition preferably contains purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol in a physiologically acceptable carrier.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a combination of sclareol with purine and / or at least one purine derivative, preferably theophylline, is capable of positively influencing, in particular stimulating, the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle. The combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed. By applying the combination or agents according to the invention, the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages. In particular, this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle. The compositions of the invention are useful for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.

As a first ingredient, the agents according to the invention may therefore contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-cf] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Preferably, the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline. According to the invention, particularly preferred combinations are sclareol and xanthine, sclareol and purine, sclareol and caffeine, sclareol and theobromine, very particularly preferably sclareol and theophylline.

Sclareol (8-methoxy-8 / - / - isothiazolo [5,4-δ] indole) is a diterpenoid from Salvia sclarea (clary sage) belonging to the labdans. Particularly preferred is (-) - sclareol.

According to a preferred embodiment, a sclareol-containing extract of the clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) is used in the cosmetic product. That is, the cosmetic agent may also preferably contain sclareol in extracts containing sclareol. Sclareol forms with about 70% of the main ingredient of the extract of clary sage produced with solvent, preferably nonpolar solvents (the so-called "clary sage" Concrete). In particular, such an extract can be prepared by a process according to DE 4132494.

Formula of sclareol

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the purine or purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 Wt% sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% xanthine.

Further particularly preferred agents contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% purine.

Other particularly preferred compositions each contain, based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% caffeine.

Further preferred agents contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt. % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% theobromine.

With very particular preference cosmetic agents, based in each case on the total weight of the composition, contain 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight of theophylline.

According to a further particularly preferred embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention the ratio of purine or purine derivative, in particular xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, particularly preferably theophylline, to sclareol is 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

In addition to influencing the natural pigmentation, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.

Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment, additionally preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.

The agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants. For surfactant-containing agents to be used according to the invention, protection is desired or protection may be desired; Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred surfactants, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 6 to 16, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content of this application , Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the Amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyl trimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 Carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or tricetylmethylammonium chloride and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83 and / or N-methyl-N (2- hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N-

(Distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ethyl) ammonium chloride. As a further optional component, the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. For polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired; Polymers, in particular cationic polymers, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 16 to 25, the features mentioned there clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content this application.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B ₁ (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Also included is vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and those disclosed in WO 92/13829 cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) can be used. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , Vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ .

Particularly preferred are combinations of theophylline and sclareol with tocopherols, especially alpha-tocopherol, as well as combinations of theophylline and sclareol with tocopherols, especially alpha-tocopherol. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt. % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with agents to be used particularly preferably containing coenzyme Q 10, preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight. As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents used according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives). Here are preferred used in the invention Characterized by being 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0, 5% by weight of at least one plastoquinone. The prenyl side chain contains n prenyl units. Preference is given to values of n from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, with agents to be used particularly preferably containing a plastoquinone with n = 9.

It is also advantageous to use in addition to sclareol, purine or purine derivatives and biochinones (in particular ubiquinones and plastoquinones) in a certain ratio. Here, agents to be used according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of the ingredients a) and b) is from 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1: 10.

As already mentioned, theophylline is a particularly preferred purine derivative and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight. -%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, and 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of theophylline and 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a further ingredient, the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, VaNn, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used. Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred are combinations of sclareol and theophylline with glycine, sclareol and theophylline with alanine, sclareol and theophylline with valine, sclareol and theophylline with lysine, Sclareol and theophylline with leucine, sclareol and theophylline with threonine. Also particularly preferred are combinations of sclareol and theobromine with glycine, sclareol and theobromine with alanine, sclareol and theobromine with VaNn, sclareol and theobromine with lysine, sclareol and theobromine with leucine, sclareol and theobromine with threonine.

Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

For furanonderviathaltige agent to be used according to the invention protection is sought or protection can be sought; 2-furanone derivatives contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Suitable 2-furanone derivatives, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 32 to 37, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure of this application.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

The compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to the optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone. Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription. To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles can For external use spironolactone be used in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

A preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, purine and / or at least one purine derivative, sclareol, optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one specific care enhancer.

Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing

(a) purine and / or a purine derivative,

(b) sclareol,

(c) from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the agent according to the invention with at least one monohydric alcohol, mutatis mutandis the statements made above regarding the novel agents,

a hair treatment composition containing

(a) theophylline,

(b) sclareol,

(D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

The compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain only ethanol. Here are hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.

The agents according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent. By using these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents to the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred, the 0.15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 6% by weight, based on their weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic acids and their salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or polyethylene glycols and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan g entha lten.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F). Protection is sought or protection can be sought for emulsifier-containing agents to be used in the present invention; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred emulsifiers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 40 to 42, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure of this application ,

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents used according to the invention. For polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired; Polymers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 42 to 44, the features mentioned therein clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content thereof Registration.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general considerations with regard to their structure and their physical properties Restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020) , α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester ( octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-et hylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) - 1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl ] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303 , Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranila Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; te; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-) yliden) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl A-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, A- Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-Isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, A-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ^° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention. The structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group may in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which is used as a compound between the

Structure U and the positively charged nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are Ci_ ₄ Alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci_ ₂₂ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable

Anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18,

Carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic

Anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those available as commercial products

Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred. The UV filters (I) are commonly used in the compositions used in the invention

Quantities 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of

Repigmentierungsprozesses, especially the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable.

More preferably, at least one of the aforementioned UV filters is combined with purine or a purine derivative, in particular theophylline, and sclareol.

The agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preferably, the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or

Ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion contains not only hydrogen but also one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -

Carries alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

Finally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or

Leaves of the plant produce.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the

Extracts mentioned on page 44 of the third edition of the Content Substance declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eV (IKW), Frankfurt, starting table are listed.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. Preferred for the purposes of the invention saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of

1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particularly preferred are those with a

Chain length from 1 up to 12 C - atoms in the chain.

Another object of the present invention is the use of purine and / or a

Purine derivatives and sclareol for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "influencing the natural pigmentation process" means the positive or negative influence on the natural one

Coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular

Hair or hair follicles understood.

Under skin and skin appendages in the context of the invention, the skin, the

Mucous membrane, the hair and its hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucosa,

Hair and hair follicles, to understand. The term skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Very particularly preferred is the term

Skin appendages Hair or hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.

According to a preferred embodiment is under the influence of the natural

Pigmentation process, the positive or negative influence understood at least a partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence affects in particular the

Regulation of such molecular signals as the biological or natural

Affect pigmentation process.

The regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process is preferred

Gene regulation, i. the regulation at the expression level, and / or enzyme regulation, i. the

Activity level regulation, and / or hormone level regulation.

Particularly preferred is regulation of melanogenesis, including the regulation of

Gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. Furthermore, the

Regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of tyrosinase and the regulation on

Enzyme level includes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of

Hair affects, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, influencing the positive influence, preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or

Stimulation or increase), which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological

Pigmentation process leads. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, in particular the hair of the head (the hair follicle, which is located on the

Scalp / upper head). According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.

By stimulating melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention. This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. According to a preferred embodiment, the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.

For the purposes of the present invention, the stimulation of the pigmentation means, in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the use according to the invention of purine and / or purine derivatives and sclareol is suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair. For the purposes of the present invention, hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.

A prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying. In one case, hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced, again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment, already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of sclareol and purine and / or purine derivative. According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic.

In particular, the use of the invention, due to the natural

Aging process, especially non-pathological hair graying is a purely cosmetic use, which is not a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and thus non-therapeutic.

According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention is topical, i. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or

Scalp, especially the scalp.

According to a further preferred embodiment, hair that has already become gray is obtained by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative and

Sclareol repigmented.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular

Stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or for repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, topically with Hair and / or skin brings into contact.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the uses or agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Example 1: Detection of the differential expression of melanogenesis-relevant genes

The ligands involved in melanogenesis, such as SCF or alpha-MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating

Hormones alpha) bind to different receptors, through which the corresponding signal into the

Cell interior is forwarded. The receptor for SCF is ckit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1

(Melanocortin Receptor 1). Such substances which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit may influence melanogenesis. In case of induction

(Upregulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the respective receptors, it is to be assumed that the melanogenesis is stimulated.

GpIOO is a protein that occurs in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilizes them. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive effect on melanogenesis, there is also an increase in the amount needed for transport

Melanosomes. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore one of the

Pigmentation stimulating agent.

Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which which induce both gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and induce gene expression of gp100.

The determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.

Differential gene expression was determined by quantitative RT-PCR. After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, they were incubated for 48 h with theophylline (100 μM), sclareol (0.01%) and theophylline and sclareol (100 μM and 0.01%, respectively). To carry out the PCR, the RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). In this case, values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.

Table 1: Influence of the combination of theophylline and sclareol on the expression of melanogenesis-regulating genes

For the selected use concentrations, a significant, synergistic induction of gene expression was demonstrated for all three genes compared to the untreated control.

Example 2 Stimulation of Melanin Synthesis Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments. An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.

To study the melanin content, three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells, hair follicle melanocytes and outer root sheath keratinocytes were treated for 7 days with theophylline (10 μM), sclareol (0.005%), sclareol and theophylline in the concentrations mentioned above. As a control served untreated cell cultures. After 4 or 7 days, the hair follicle equivalents were homogenized and the melanin extracted by means of NaOH (1 M) + 10% DMSO at 100 ⁰ C over 45 min. Aliquots of the samples were then transferred to a 96well plate and the absorbance measured at 492 nm. The increase in the melanin content was evaluated from day 0 to day 7. All values were related to the untreated control on day 7 (= 100%).

Table 2:

Melanin content in hair follicle equivalents after treatment with theophylline and sclareol

For the selected use concentrations, a synergistic induction of melanin synthesis was demonstrated in comparison to the control.

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic agent containing

a. Purine and / or a purine derivative and

b. Sclareol.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the purine or

Purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-% , most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition is included.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of purine or purine derivative to Sclareol 10: 1 to 1: 10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purine thiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, in particular theophylline.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a sclareol-containing extract of the clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) is used.

8. Use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 7 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that at least one sub-step of the natural pigmentation process is stimulated.

10. Use according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated, is

11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair is stimulated and / or improved

12. Use according to claim 8 to 11, characterized in that the melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, influenced, preferably stimulated, is.

13. Use according to one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the hair graying is prevented and / or reduced.

14. Use according to one of claims 8 to 13, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmented.

15. Use according to one of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that the use is made topically.

Use according to any one of claims 8 to 15, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use.

17. A method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulating the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the hair graying and / or for the repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that a combination of sclareol with purine and / or a purine derivative is topically contacted with hair and / or skin.

18. Hair treatment composition containing

a. Purine and / or a purine derivative,

b. sclareol

c. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,

d. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.