DE102010043068A1 - Use of purine and / or a purine derivative and at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing purine and / or a purine derivative and at least one bioquinone and their use for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.

Description

The invention relates to the use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one specific amino acid for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.

So far, the causes of hair graying are not combated, but the hair is treated for gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and thus damaging the hair colorations. In addition, customers often complain of lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be re-dyed regularly). The effectiveness of currently isolated on the market biological products is not scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the graying process directly at the root, are not used.

Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior. Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.

From the WO91 / 07945 A1 The use of xanthines to stimulate the pigmentation of the skin and hair is known. Although the use of biochinones - especially coenzyme Q10 - in hair treatment products is widely known, its effects on melatonin have not been described so far.

The object of the present invention is to provide further active compounds or active agent combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, even better, without the described disadvantages of the prior art have known methods for influencing hair color or degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair.

The object is achieved by the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, the positive influence, preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, especially the hair of the head (the hair follicles located on the scalp / head).

According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.

By stimulating melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention. This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. According to a preferred embodiment, the influence, preferably stimulation that achieves melanogenesis by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans. For the purposes of the present invention, the stimulation of the pigmentation means, in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone is suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair. For the purposes of the present invention, hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.

A prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying. In one case, hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced, again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment, already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone.

In particular, the use according to the invention, which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and is thus non-therapeutic. According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention is topical, d. H. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp. According to a further preferred embodiment, already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative, preferably theophylline, with at least one biochinone, is capable of positively influencing, in particular stimulating, the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle , The combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.

By applying the combination according to the invention or agents used according to the invention, the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages. In particular, this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle. The compositions used in the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.

As a first ingredient, the agents used in the invention may therefore contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, -NH₂, -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -CH₃ und -CH₂-CH₃, wobei folgende Verbindungen bevorzugt sind:

• – Purin (R¹=R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Adenin (R¹=NH₂, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Guanin (R¹=OH, R²=NH₂, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹=R²=R³=OH, R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹=OH, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹= SH, R²=R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹=SH, R²=NH₂, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Xanthin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Coffein (R¹=R²=OH, R³=H, R⁴=R⁵=R⁶=CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=R⁴=H, R⁵=R⁶=H)
• – Theophyllin (R¹=R²=OH, R³=H, R⁴=CH₃, R⁵=CH₃, R⁶=H)

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Preferred cosmetic agents to be used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Preferably, the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline. Very particularly preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that purine derivative is theophylline.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.

According to the invention, a combination of purine or purine derivative (s) and biochinone (s) is used. In the agents used according to the invention, suitable biochinones are preferably to be understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). Preferred uses are therefore characterized in that the biochinone (s) is (are) selected from ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).

Ubiquinones are the most widely used and thus best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are labeled as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or as number of C atoms -5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q-10 predominates. Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10. Uses which are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the biochinone is coenzyme Q10.

auf. Sie können aus Chloroplasten isoliert werden und spielen als Redoxsubstrate in der Photosynthese beim cyclischen und nichtcyclischen Elektronentransport eine Rolle, wobei sie reversibel in die entsprechenden Hydrochinone (Plastochinol) übergehen. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are termed endsprechend, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Regardless of the type of biochionone (s) used, uses of the invention are preferred in which the biochinone (s) is used in a cosmetic composition which contains the biochinone (s) in a total amount of 0.0000001-5 wt.%, preferably 0.000001-1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.00001-0.1 wt. most preferably 0.00005-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.

Preferably, the ingredients used in combination according to the invention are used in a certain ratio to each other in order to develop the widest possible effect. Uses preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the weight ratio of purine or purine derivative to biochinone (s) is 50: 1 to 1:10, in particular 25: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 10: 1 to 1: 2.

In addition to influencing the natural pigmentation, the cosmetic agents used according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair. Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents. Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions , Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment, additionally preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.

The agents used in the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) Surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or tricetyl methylammonium chloride and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83 and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ethyl) - ammonium chloride.

As a further optional component, the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the agents used in the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below: The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B ₁ (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Also included is vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). As part of this group will preferably the panthenol and / or pantolactone used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) can be used. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

As a further ingredient, the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used. Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1.5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

The compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation approved worldwide and has been shown to be effective and well tolerated in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone. Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription. To combat the hormonal effects on hair follicles, spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, i. H. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. Particular preference is given to cosmetic agents to be used according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

A preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent used according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, a purine and / or a purine derivative, at least one biochinone, optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one particular care enhancer.

• a. Theophyllin,
• b. mindestens ein Biochinon,
• c. 0,1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol,
• d. 0 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners.

Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing

• a. theophylline,
• b. at least one biochinon,
• c. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,
• d. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the agents according to the invention, mutatis mutandis applies mutandis what was said for the use according to the invention.

The compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain only ethanol. Here are hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.

The agents used according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent. Through the use of these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, contain 0.15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0, 3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 5 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicas and / or layered silicates and / or organo-layer silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hydrogenated castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or Polymethacrylic acids and their salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or polyethylene glycols and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acrylic acid and meth acrylic acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexy ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene-camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 'ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-yl) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [ 2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000. Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure UQ.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range , UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred. The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of the repigmentation process, especially in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable.

The agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Finally, the compositions used according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferable to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the compositions used according to the invention.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the agents used according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the agents according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made on the use according to the invention apply.

Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular Stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or for the repigmentation of grayed hair, comprising a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone topically contact with hair and / or skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the uses or agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 91/07945 A1 [0005]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone to influence the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, influenced, preferably stimulated, is. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition containing purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001-10% by weight, preferably 0.0001- 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that purine derivative is theophylline. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the biochinone (s) is (are) selected from ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the biochinone is coenzyme Q10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the biochinone (s) are used in a cosmetic composition containing the biochinone (s) in a total amount of 0.0000001-5% by weight. , preferably 0.000001-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.00001-0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.00005-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. Use according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the weight ratio of purine or purine derivative to biochinone (s) is 50: 1 to 1:10, in particular 25: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 10: 1 to 1: 2 is. Method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or for repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone is brought into contact with hair and / or skin topically. Hair treatment compositions containing a. theophylline, b. at least one biochinon, c. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol, d. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.