WO2011009763A2 - Cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol - Google Patents

Cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol

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Publication number
WO2011009763A2
WO2011009763A2 PCT/EP2010/060037 EP2010060037W WO2011009763A2 WO 2011009763 A2 WO2011009763 A2 WO 2011009763A2 EP 2010060037 W EP2010060037 W EP 2010060037W WO 2011009763 A2 WO2011009763 A2 WO 2011009763A2
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WO
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Patent type
Prior art keywords
hair
wt
preferably
invention
preferred
Prior art date
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PCT/EP2010/060037
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2011009763A3 (en )
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Thomas Welss
Zur Wiesche Erik Schulze
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol as well as to the use of said cosmetic to influence the natural pigmentation process of skin and/or skin appendages.

Description

Cosmetic compositions comprising purine and / or a Purinderviat and sclareol

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, and their use for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.

Hair have not to be underestimated psychosocial function in addition to their actual physiological function as thermal insulation and light protection. They serve as a means of interpersonal communication and make a sign of individuality is. Changes, such as the graying can lead to a major impairment of self-consciousness of the person concerned.

Up to now, do not fight the causes of hair graying, but treats the hair to gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and damaging the hair colorants. In addition, customers often complain about lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be nachgefärbt regularly). The effectiveness of the few on the market biological products has not been scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the Ergrauungsprozess directly at the root, are not used.

The pigmentation of the hair follicle is controlled by a complex set of molecular defined signals. Since melanogenesis is obviously influenced grizzled follicles can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in their role in graying follicle. A consequence is the reduction of melanin synthesis leading to graying of the follicle. To the complex set of molecular signals which affect melanogenesis, include the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) gp100 and c-kit. MCR1 and c-kit, the key signals of melanogenesis by the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor are receptors, passing into the cell. GpIOO is a protein of Melanosomenmembran and also regulates other proteins melanogneserelevante. Since these parameters are of essential importance in the Haarfollikelpigmentierung are, it is of advantage to influence these parameters when the melanin synthesis is to be maintained in the hair follicle cells, or reactivated through the application of a test formulation. By appropriate drug formulations, the pigmentation and thus obtain youthfulness of hair, is a challenge for cosmetic research. From the state of the art (WO91 / 07945) describes the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair is well known.

From EP 2014276 A1 a mixture of sclareolide and Hesperidinmethylchalcone (HMC) is known to be used for the prevention of hair graying and / or darker hair.

The object of the present invention is therefore containing them to provide alternative active substances or combinations of active substances and means, which are suitable for the natural pigmentation, particularly in the hair and hair follicle, affecting even better, without the disadvantages described in the prior art exhibit known methods for influencing hair color or Haarergrauungsgrad and youthful appearance of the hair.

The object is achieved by a cosmetic composition comprising purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol. Preferably, the cosmetic composition purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol in a physiologically acceptable carrier.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a combination of sclareol with purine and / or at least one purine derivative, preferably theophylline, is capable of the natural pigmentation, particularly in the hair or hair follicles, to positively influence in a synergistic manner to stimulate particular. The combination according to the invention induced gene expression of both the MCR-1 and the gp100 of c-kit and in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed. By applying the combination of the invention or the inventive agent, thus, the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages can be influenced, in particular to be stimulated. In particular, this may in particular stimulates the natural pigmentation of the hair, the hair follicle or influenced in hair follicles are. The compositions of the invention are useful to stimulate the pigmentation of the hair and / or improve, stimulate melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicles to prevent hair graying and / or reduce and to repigmentieren gray hair.

As a first ingredient compositions of the invention can therefore comprise purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-cf] pyrimidine) comes free in nature not before, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines in turn a group are important in nature widespread and human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes involved compounds derived from the basic body by substitution with OH, NH 2, SH in the 2-, 6- and 8-positions and / derived or with CH 3 in the 1, 3, 7-position. Purine can be made for example of amino acetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are synthetically accessible in many ways.

Under purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are inventively particularly preferred. According to the invention, preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they purine and / or purine derivative (s) containing the formula (PU-I)

in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH2, -SH and the radicals R 4, R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 - CH 3, whereby the following compounds are preferred:

- purine (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- adenine (R 1 = NH 2, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- guanine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = NH 2, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- uric acid (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = OH, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- hypoxanthine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- 6-purinethiol (R 1 = SH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- 6-thioguanine (R 1 = SH, R 2 = NH 2, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- xanthine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- caffeine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = CH 3)

- theobromine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = H, R 5 = R 6 = H)

- Theophylline (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = CH 3, R 5 = CH 3, R 6 = H)

Preferably purine derivatives is selected from the xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline. Particularly preferred combinations are inventively sclareol and xanthine, sclareol and purine, sclareol and caffeine, theobromine and sclareol, most preferably sclareol and theophylline.

Sclareol (8-methoxy-8 / - / - isothiazolo [5,4-ö] indole) is a diterpenoid belonging to the labdanes of Salvia sclarea (clary sage). It is particularly preferred (-) - sclareol.

According to a preferred embodiment, a Sclareol- containing extract of clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) is used in the cosmetic composition. This means that the cosmetic product sclareol may also be preferably contained in extracts containing sclareol. Sclareol is about 70% the major component of the extract prepared with solvents, preferably non-polar solvents from clary sage (the so-called "Muskatellersalbei- Concrete"). In particular, such an extract can be prepared by a process according to DE 4,132,494th

Formula of sclareol

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic agent, in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the purine or purine derivative in a total amount from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic agent, in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the sclareol in a total amount of from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%.

Very particularly preferred compositions comprise according to the invention in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% xanthine.

Further especially preferred compositions comprise in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% purine.

Other particularly preferred detergents contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine.

Further preferred compositions comprise in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt. -% sclareol and from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-% theobromine.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic products contained in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% theophylline.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the ratio of purine or purine derivative, in particular xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline in the inventive cosmetic agent is, more preferably theophylline, to sclareol 10: 1 to 1: 10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention show by influencing the natural pigmentation also improved conditioning effects on skin and hair.

Especially on keratinous fibers, the positive effects are pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are hair treatment compositions.

Hair treatment compositions according to the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, hair bleaching, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, permanent wave fixing, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair setting compositions, hair setting compositions, hair styling preparations, Fönwell - lotions, mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they are formulated as a shampoo, hair tonics, hair treatment, hair rinse, hair mousse, hair setting lotion, hair spray, hair gel and / or Haarfärbemitte. In view of the fact that the consumer of time and convenience shrink often the use of several different agents and / or multiple application steps, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is also preferably contained.

The inventive compositions may contain other active ingredients and excipients. These are described below.

The inventive use compositions may contain surfactants, especially cationic surfactants. For inventive use surfactant agent protection is sought or may be sought protection; Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred surfactants, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions of the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 6 to 16, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this application , Particularly preferred hair treatment composition according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as the cationic care substance - based on its weight - 0,05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic surfactant (s) (e) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or the amidoamine contained, preferred cationic (s) surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyl trimethylammoniumchloriden with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl and / or trialkyl with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and / or distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and / or lauryl and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or Tricetylm ethylammonium and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83, and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) N, N-

(Distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl- ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fettsäureesterethyl), ammonium chloride. As a further optional ingredient, the agent used in the invention 0.01 to 10 wt .-% may contain at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. For inventive use polymer-containing means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Polymers, especially cationic polymers contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are included in accordance with the invention to be used in compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 16 to 25, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content this application.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances designated as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A 1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2). The beta-carotene is a provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention are for example vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and Vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate. The compositions of the invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex, include vitamin B 1 (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), Vitamin B3. Under this designation, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. According to the invention, the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the used in the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is. Also this includes vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used. According to the invention usable derivatives of panthenol are the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol, panthenol nolmonoethylether and its monoacetate, and those disclosed in WO 92/13829 the cationic panthenol. The compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are present in the agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 - 10 wt .-% contain, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, it can be used Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can likewise be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are in the present invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-Oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] is referred imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however in the meantime the trivial name biotin has Vitamin H. Biotin in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 percent by .-%, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which in addition as a care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% containing more preferably from 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors which preferably the groups A, B, C, e, F and H are associated with preferred means panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamin (vitamin B 1) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B 2, vitamin G) and / or biotin and / or folic acid (vitamin B 9, vitamin B c or vitamin M) contain (7, vitamin B vitamin H) and / or vitamin B 6 and / or vitamin B 12.

Particularly preferred are combinations of theophylline and sclareol with tocopherols, in particular alpha-tocopherol, as well as combinations of theophylline and sclareol with tocopherols, in particular alpha-tocopherol. Particularly preferred hair treatment agent used in the invention are characterized in that they contain as a conditioning substance - based on its weight - from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1 parts by weight % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one of ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, said means particularly preferred to use coenzyme Q10, preferably contain 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%. As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to the means used in the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylierte 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives). Here are preferred used in the invention characterized in that it contains from 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and comprise, in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone. The prenyl contains n prenyl units. Values ​​for n protrudes from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, wherein agents particularly preferably to be used contain a plastoquinone with n = 9 are preferred.

It is also advantageous, in addition to sclareol, purine or purine derivatives and bioquinones (in particular ubiquinones and plastoquinones) in a certain ratio to each other use. Here, agents for inventive use are preferred in which the weight ratio of components a) and b) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 50, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 20 and especially 1: 1 is 10: up. 1

As mentioned above, theophylline is a particularly preferred purine derivative and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred bioquinone. Particularly preferred agents used in this invention are therefore characterized in that - based on its weight - the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-% by weight, in particular 0.001 to first -%, extremely preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, and 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% theophylline and 0.0002 part to 4 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 contained.

As further ingredient, the agent used in the invention can with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. According to the invention particularly preferably usable amino acids are from the group of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ß alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dOPA), 5' hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine ​​sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, both the individual amino acids as well as mixtures can be used. Preferred agents used in this invention contain one or more amino acids in the narrower ranges of amounts. Here are preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention characterized in that they contain as a conditioning substance - based on its weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred are combinations of sclareol and theophylline with glycine, sclareol and theophylline with alanine, sclareol and theophylline with valine, sclareol and theophylline with lysine, sclareol and theophylline with leucine, sclareol and theophylline with threonine. Also particularly preferred are combinations of sclareol and theobromine with glycine, sclareol and theobromine with alanine, valine with sclareol and theobromine, theobromine sclareol and with lysine, sclareol and theobromine with leucine, sclareol and theobromine with threonine.

Preferred agents contain as a care substance - based on its weight - 0,01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one 2-furanone derivative of formula (Fur-I) and / or formula (Fur-Il)

For inventive use furanonderviathaltige means protection is sought or may be sought protection; 2-furanone derivatives contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Suitable 2-furanone derivatives, the amounts in which they are included in accordance with the invention to be used in compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102 009 044 977 on pages 32 to 37, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus the disclosure of this application.

Another, more preferably usable care substance, which has activating properties is taurine this. Preferred hair treatment compositions as a care substance - based on its weight - 0,01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

The means used in this invention, in addition to the optional further ingredients contain other substances that prevent or alleviate cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only drug that is approved worldwide for the efficacy and safety has been demonstrated in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT from testosterone can form. Minoxidil is with or without additional additives, the oldest demonstrably acting hair restorer. it must be used only for external use for the treatment of hair loss. There are hair lotion containing 2% -5% minoxidil, also gel with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage in hair tonics minoxidil but only up to 5% portion is soluble. In many countries, Hair water with up to 2% Minoxidilgehalt are without prescription available. For the control of hormonal effects on the hair follicle for external application Spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be employed. Spironolactone acts as androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. In summary, cosmetic products according to the invention are preferred which in addition - contain from 0.001 to 5 wt .-% hair root stabilizing materials, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole - based on its weight.

A preferred packaging form of the hair treatment composition of the invention takes the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably include at least one monohydric alcohol, purine and / or at least one Purinderviat, sclareol, optionally include a gelling agent and optionally at least a certain care-enhancer.

Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition comprising

(A) purine and / or a purine derivative,

(B) sclareol

(C) 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the agent of the invention with at least one monohydric alcohol applies mutatis mutandis to the erfindungsgemäüßen protruding means has been said,

a hair-treatment composition comprising

(A) Theophylline,

(B) sclareol

(C) 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

The compositions of the invention contain 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol. Under these ethanol and / or ispopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment composition according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on its weight - 0,5 to 85 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 80 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 75 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% of ethanol and / or isopropanol included.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain only ethanol. Here are hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which - based on its weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .- contain% ethanol are particularly preferred.

The agents can also contain a gelling agent. By using these gelling agents, the liability of the funds on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Here, hair treatment agents are preferred, which - based on its weight - 0,15 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the group of silicas and / or layer silicates and / or Organoschichtsilicate and / or metal soaps and / or hydrogenated castor oil and / or modified fatty acid derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) and / or ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (EHEC), and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic and salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone, and / or polyethylene and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and salts thereof and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acrylic acid and Methacry L acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the invention, in particular the erfindunsgemäßen hair lotions and / or hair tonics can contain emulsifiers (F).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the invention, in particular the erfindunsgemäßen hair lotions and / or hair tonics can contain emulsifiers (F). For inventive use emulsifier means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical object of the invention and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application engineering task. Preferred emulsifiers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions of the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 40 to 42, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this application ,

As a further, it has been found advantageous if, in addition to or instead of polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, other polymers (G) are contained in the used in the invention means. For inventive use polymer-containing means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Polymers contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in used in the invention compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 42 to 44, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this Registration.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent of the invention also UV - contain filter (I). The inventive use UV filters are not generally limited in terms of their structure and their physical properties. Instead, all used in the cosmetic field UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filter according to the invention can for example be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylates, cinnamates, salicylates, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of the present invention suitable UV filters are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane; Parsol ® 1789 Eusolex ® 9020) , α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester ( octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ® DMO, Escalol ® 507, Eusolex ® 6007), salicylic acid-2-et hylhexylester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ® 587, Neo Heliopan ® OS, Uvinul ® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ® MCX, Escalol ® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ®), 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb ® S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ® 5000, Eusolex ® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethylhexyl-1' -oxi) - 1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2- oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl ] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ® 20 H, Uvinul ® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ® OCR, Neo Heliopan ® Type 303 , Uvinul ® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranila Neo Heliopan MA ®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; te; Uvinul ® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preferred are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4- phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, -1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propan-1, 3-dion, α- (oxoborn-2-3- ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, A- dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, A- methoxy-isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2 -hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- { (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. According to the invention are very particularly preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, A-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient of 15, 000 above, in particular above 20000, at the absorption maximum are preferred.

Furthermore, it was found that with structurally similar UV filters, in many cases, the water-insoluble compound having the higher activity against such water-soluble compounds in the context of the teaching according to the invention, which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. As water-insoluble are understood to those UV filters in the context of the invention, at 20 0 C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1 wt .-%, dissolves in water. Furthermore, these compounds should be wt .-% soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred in the invention.

According to another embodiment of the invention, UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural moiety U stands for a UV absorbing group. This group can in principle from the prior art, used in the cosmetic field, derived above-mentioned UV filters, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function, ,

Compounds from which the structural moiety U may be derived are for example substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred in the invention. The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, and in the UVB (280- 315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range may be. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the structural moiety U, as a function of structural element Q is preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter higher than 15,000, in particular above 20000, at the absorption maximum.

The structural element Q contains as cationic group is preferably a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group may be directly connected to the structural moiety U, in principle, so that the structural moiety U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Preferably, however, one of the four substituents at the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, as a link between the the

acts structural moiety U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2) x -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X 'in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 are independently CI_ 4 alkyl groups, R 3 represents an alkyl group or a benzyl group CI_ 22 and X 'is a physiologically tolerable

Anion. Within this general structure, x is preferably the number 3, R 1 and R 2 are each a methyl group and R 3 is either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having from 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18,

Carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are for example inorganic anions such as halides, particularly chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic

Anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially obtainable

Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV-filters. Within this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter is preferably at least one UV filter having a cationic group. The UV filter (I) are in accordance with the invention means used commonly in

Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% being preferred.

improve the UV filters in the inventively used means the results of the

Repigmentierungsprozesses, particularly in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable.

at least one of the above-mentioned UV-filter with a purine or Purinderviat, in particular theophylline, and Sclareol is particularly preferably combined.

The agents used in this invention may further comprises a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof (J) included. the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or preferably

Ammonium salts where the ammonium ion addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -

Alkyl carries. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the present invention means are preferably used from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Finally, the agents may also contain plant extracts (L).

Typically these extracts are prepared by extracting the entire plant. but it may in some cases be preferable to the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or

Scroll produce the plant.

relating to the present invention usable plant extracts in particular

Extracts noted that in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the introduction to the content material declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW), Frankfurt, incipient table lists.

According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon , preferably wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, Hauhechel, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, are rosemary, birch, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, rest harrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. especially suitable for use in the invention, the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon are.

As extraction agents for producing the plant extracts mentioned water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant or in a mixture with water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1: 10 to 10: 1 have proved to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure form or in dilute form. If they are used in diluted form, they typically contain ca. 2 - 80 wt .-% of active substance and solvent as the extraction agent used to obtain them or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, more particularly two, different plant extracts in the inventive compositions.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if in the agents penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included. For this purpose, are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine, and derivatives thereof, water glass, imidazole and derivatives thereof, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols, and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2- hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously according to the invention can additionally support short-chain carboxylic acids (N) the active ingredient complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives according to the invention carboxylic acids are meant, which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and having a molecular weight of less than 750th Preferred according to the invention saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain carboxylic acids having a chain length of

be 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, very particularly preferably those having a

Chain length of 1 up to 12 carbon - atoms in the chain.

Another object of the present invention is the use of purine and / or

Purine derivative and sclareol for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.

Under the concept of influencing the natural pigmentation is in the context of the present invention, the positive or negative influence on the natural

Coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, ie biological pigmentation in skin and / or skin appendages insbesonderen,

Hair or hair follicles understood.

Under the skin and skin appendages in the context of this invention are the skin,

Mucous membrane, hair and their hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucous membrane,

understanding hair and hair follicles. Particularly preferred the term skin the skin is to be understood without mucosa. Very particularly preferably, the term

Integumentary hair or hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, most preferably beard and head hair, very preferably to understand head hair or the corresponding hair follicles.

According to a preferred embodiment is under the influence of the natural

Pigmentation process, the positive or negative influence understood at least part of the natural pigmentation process step. This influence is particularly the

Regulation of such molecular signals which natural biological or

affect pigmentation.

Preferably, the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation is characterized by

Gene regulation, that regulation at the expression level and / or enzyme regulation, ie the

Regulation at the activity level, and / or the regulation of hormone levels.

Particularly preferred is regulation of melanogenesis, including the regulation of

Gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) gp100 and c-kit. Furthermore, it is also

Regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of tyrosinase and the regulation on

includes enzyme level.

According to a preferred embodiment of the natural pigmentation is the

Hair affected, in particular stimulated or excited. In particular, the influencing positively influencing, preferably the positive regulation (up-regulation or activation or

understood stimulation or increase) leading to a stimulation of the natural, biological

Pigmentation leads. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in human hair follicles, in particular of head hair (the hair follicle, which is on the

Scalp / top of the head are located). According to the invention of the pigmentation, in particular the melanogenesis of the skin and skin appendages, are preferred affects the hair or the hair follicle. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis in mammals, particularly preferred are affected in humans. the pigmentation is preferred, preferably melanogenesis of human hair or the human hair follicle affected.

Under stimulation of melanogenesis, preferably of melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the invention particularly preferably stimulating, increasing, or improving stimulation of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably, the melanocytes in the hair follicle) to understand. This is ckit achieved for example by increasing the gene expression of signaling molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), as well as gp100. According to a preferred embodiment, the interference, preferably stimulation of melanogenesis is achieved by the inventive use. In particular, the melanogenesis in the hair or hair follicles of the scalp and / or beard is stimulated in particular in humans.

For the purposes of the present invention is under the stimulation of pigmentation in particular improving, increasing and / or stimulating the transport of the melanosomes in the follicle surrounding keratinocytes and further the perceptible with the eye or other appropriate measurement methods pigmentation of the individual hair, a selection of hair to understand in particular an area hairy skin, especially the scalp, or the whole head and / or beard hair.

It was surprisingly found that the inventive use of purine and / or purine derivatives and sclareol is adapted to stimulate the pigmentation of the hair and improve.

In one preferred embodiment, the inventive use, the hair graying, in particular of human hair, preferably substantially prevents prevented and / or reduced. Among hair graying is to be understood in the context of the present invention, both the visually perceptible through the mixture of white and pigmented hair graying, as well as for pigment dilution in a single hair, so the graying of a single hair.

Prevention of hair graying occurs especially in not gray hair, a reduction of hair graying can take place both with already graying as well as not yet gray hair. In the one case, the hair follicles in which melanogenesis not, no longer or not fully functional or is disturbed or reduced, again excited to melanogenesis / stimulated, while in non-gray hair / hair follicles a disorder reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis do takes place not only, or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment, gray hair is already repigmentiert by the inventive use of sclareol and purine and / or purine derivative. According to another particularly preferred embodiment, in the inventive use is a cosmetic use, which is non-therapeutic.

In particular, the use of the invention, the natural to by the

Aging process resulting, in particular non-pathological hair graying aims, is a purely cosmetic use, which is not the treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease, and thus is non-therapeutic.

According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention takes place topically, that is by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, particularly the face and / or

Scalp, especially the scalp.

According to a further preferred embodiment, gray hair by the inventive use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative, and is already

Sclareol repigmentiert.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the inventive compositions said.

Another object of the present invention is a process for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular

Stimulating the natural pigmentation, in particular of melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the graying and / or for repigmentation of gray hair, characterized in that the purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, topically with hair and / or skin into contact.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the inventive method applies mutatis mutandis to the uses of this invention or compositions is said.

Example 1: Detection of differential expression of genes melanogeneserelevanten

The ligands involved in melanogenesis as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating

Hormones alpha) bind to different receptors through which the corresponding signal to the

Interior of the cell is forwarded. The receptor for SCF is c-kit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1

(Melanocortin receptor 1). Such substances, which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or c-kit can affect melanogenesis. In the case of induction

(Upregulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the receptors entsprecheden is to start from a stimulation of melanogenesis.

GpIOO is a protein found in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilize them. Since, increased melanin is produced in the cells after application of substances which positively influence melanogenesis, it also comes to an increase in the time required for transport

Melanosomes. A substance that induces the gene expression of gp100 is, therefore, the

Pigmentation stimulierenderWirkstoff.

Particularly preferred substances stimuieren the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, particularly the hair and hair follicles, are those which induce gene expression of both the MCR-1 and / or induce c-kit as well as the gene expression of gp100.

The determination of the extent of alteration of gene expression by an application of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can yield information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.

The differential gene expression was determined by RT-PCR quantitatitiver. After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic Haarfollikelzellkulturen from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, these were incubated for 48h with theophylline (100 uM), sclareol (0.01%), and theophylline and sclareol (100 uM or 0.01%). To perform the PCR Qiagen, first using the RNeasy Mini Kit of the company. RNA from the organotypic cell cultures isolated and transcribed into cDNA by reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction which is carried out using gene-specific primers for respective genes and is used to amplify the desired gene segments, the formation of PCR products is detected online via a fluorescent signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of PCR product formed. The stronger is the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product formed and the higher is the fluorescence signal.

To quantify the gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of genes to be determined based on it (x-fold expression). In this case, values ​​/ equal to 1, 8 times the expression or less than / equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are significantly larger than be classified differentially expressed. Values ​​equal to 1, 5 times the expression or less than / equal to 0.7 times the expression of the untreated control are larger / classified as differentially expressed tended.

Table 1: Influence of the combination of theophylline and sclareol on the expression of genes regulating melanogenesis-

For the requested use concentrations a significant, synergistic induction of gene expression compared to the untreated control was demonstrated for all three genes studied.

Example 2: stimulation of melanin synthesis: When melanin is a dye which is produced in the melanosomes of melanocytes and stored. Melanin gives hair its actual color, the color is created by a mixture of two types of melanin, Eu and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complex and often regulated synthesis process. In this tyrosine is initially by the enzyme tyrosinase in L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then reacted over several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments. An active substance, the positive influence melanogenesis and leads to increased melanin content in the hair follicle melanocytes is especially suitable to influence the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages to prevent graying and / or stimulate pigmentation.

To investigate the melanin content three-dimensional organotypic Haarfollikelzellkulturen from dermal papilla, hair follicle melanocytes and Outer Root Sheath keratinocytes for 7 days with theophylline (10 uM) were sclareol (0.005%) or sclareol and theophylline each treated in the stated concentrations. untreated cell cultures served as controls. After 4 and 7 days, the Haarfollikeläquivalente 10% DMSO were homogenized and the melanin by means of NaOH (1 M) + extracted at 100 0 C for 45 min. Aliquots of the samples were then transferred to a 96-well plate and the absorbance measured at 492 nm. the increase in melanin content from day 0 to day 7 was evaluated this, all values ​​are relative to the untreated control on day 7 (= 100%).

Table 2:

Melanin content in Haarfollikeläquivalenten after treatment with theophylline and sclareol

For the requested use concentrations of melanin synthesis compared to control has been demonstrated for a synergistic induction.

Claims

claims:
1. A cosmetic composition comprising
a. Purine and / or purine derivative and
b. Sclareol.
2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the purine or
Purine derivative in a total amount from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based is included on the total weight of the composition.
3. A cosmetic composition according to a claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sclareol in a total amount of from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-% extremely preferably 0.005 - contained 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of purine or purine derivative to sclareol 10: 2: 1 to 1: 10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 2: 1 to. 1
5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline.
6. A cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.
7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a sclareol-containing extract of clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) is used.
8. Use of an agent according to any of claims 1 to 7 for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.
9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation process is stimulated.
10. Use according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the natural pigmentation of the hair influenced, in particular is stimulated,
11. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair stimulating and / or improved is
12. Use according to claim 8 to 11, characterized in that the melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicle, affecting, preferably is stimulated.
13. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the hair graying prevented and / or reduced.
14. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 13, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmentiert.
15. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that the use takes place topically.
16. Use according to any one of claims 8 to 15, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use.
17. A method for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation, in particular of melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the graying and / or for repigmentation grayed hair, characterized in that one brings a combination of sclareol with purine and / or a purine derivative topically with hair and / or skin in contact.
18. Hair treatment composition comprising
a. Purine and / or a purine derivative,
b. sclareol
c. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,
d. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.
PCT/EP2010/060037 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Cosmetic containing purine and/or a purine derivative and sclareol WO2011009763A3 (en)

Priority Applications (4)

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DE102009044977.9 2009-09-24

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JP2014524795A (en) * 2011-07-08 2014-09-25 デュレ,フランソワ Three-dimensional measuring device used in the dental field
EP2789369A1 (en) * 2013-04-14 2014-10-15 Symrise AG A composition for lightening skin and hair

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WO2012055581A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one amino acid for influencing the natural pigmentation process
WO2012055580A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-02-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process
JP2014524795A (en) * 2011-07-08 2014-09-25 デュレ,フランソワ Three-dimensional measuring device used in the dental field
EP2789369A1 (en) * 2013-04-14 2014-10-15 Symrise AG A composition for lightening skin and hair
WO2014170239A1 (en) * 2013-04-14 2014-10-23 Symrise Ag A composition for lightening skin and hair

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DE102009044977A1 (en) 2011-01-27 application
WO2011009763A3 (en) 2012-06-07 application

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