EP2473234A2 - Agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et du sclaréol - Google Patents

Agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et du sclaréol

Info

Publication number
EP2473234A2
EP2473234A2 EP10732949A EP10732949A EP2473234A2 EP 2473234 A2 EP2473234 A2 EP 2473234A2 EP 10732949 A EP10732949 A EP 10732949A EP 10732949 A EP10732949 A EP 10732949A EP 2473234 A2 EP2473234 A2 EP 2473234A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
purine
sclareol
skin
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10732949A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Thomas Welss
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2473234A2 publication Critical patent/EP2473234A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic agent containing purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, as well as their use for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
  • Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle.
  • the complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior.
  • GpIOO is a protein of the melanosome membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
  • the prior art (WO91 / 07945) discloses the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair.
  • EP 2 014 276 A1 discloses a mixture of sclareolide and hesperidin methyl chalcone (HMC) which is intended to be used to prevent the hair graying and / or darkening of hair.
  • HMC hesperidin methyl chalcone
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide alternative active ingredients or active agent combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable, the natural pigmentation process, especially in the hair or hair follicles, to influence even better without the disadvantages of the known methods known in the art for influencing hair color and degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair.
  • the object is achieved by a cosmetic agent containing purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol.
  • the cosmetic composition preferably contains purine and / or at least one purine derivative and sclareol in a physiologically acceptable carrier.
  • a combination of sclareol with purine and / or at least one purine derivative, preferably theophylline is capable of positively influencing, in particular stimulating, the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle.
  • the combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner.
  • a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
  • compositions of the invention are useful for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.
  • the agents according to the invention may therefore contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine.
  • Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-cf] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines.
  • Purines are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH 2 , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH 3 in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived.
  • Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide.
  • Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • compositions are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 - CH 3 , where the following compounds are preferred:
  • the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.
  • particularly preferred combinations are sclareol and xanthine, sclareol and purine, sclareol and caffeine, sclareol and theobromine, very particularly preferably sclareol and theophylline.
  • Sclareol (8-methoxy-8 / - / - isothiazolo [5,4- ⁇ ] indole) is a diterpenoid from Salvia sclarea (clary sage) belonging to the labdans. Particularly preferred is (-) - sclareol.
  • a sclareol-containing extract of the clary sage (Salvia sclarea L.) is used in the cosmetic product. That is, the cosmetic agent may also preferably contain sclareol in extracts containing sclareol. Sclareol forms with about 70% of the main ingredient of the extract of clary sage produced with solvent, preferably nonpolar solvents (the so-called "clary sage” Concrete). In particular, such an extract can be prepared by a process according to DE 4132494.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the purine or purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt%.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention in each case based on the total weight of the composition, the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%.
  • Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 Wt% sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% xanthine.
  • Further particularly preferred agents contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% purine.
  • compositions each contain, based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% caffeine.
  • Further preferred agents contain in each case based on the total weight of the composition 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt. % Sclareol and 0.00001-10 wt%, preferably 0.0001-5 wt%, more preferably 0.001-1 wt%, most preferably 0.005-0.1 wt% theobromine.
  • cosmetic agents based in each case on the total weight of the composition, contain 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1 Wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-% sclareol and 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight of theophylline.
  • the ratio of purine or purine derivative, in particular xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, particularly preferably theophylline, to sclareol is 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.
  • At least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants.
  • surfactants for surfactant-containing agents to be used according to the invention, protection is desired or protection may be desired;
  • Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the Amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyl trimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylam
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • polymers for polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired;
  • Polymers in particular cationic polymers, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 16 to 25, the features mentioned there clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content this application.
  • compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B 1 (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and those disclosed in WO 92/13829 cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin F.
  • vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy- ⁇ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , Vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thi
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt.
  • the agents used according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives).
  • plastoquinones polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives.
  • agents to be used according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of the ingredients a) and b) is from 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1: 10.
  • theophylline is a particularly preferred purine derivative and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone.
  • Particularly preferred agents used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, the sclareol in a total amount of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight.
  • -% most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, and 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of theophylline and 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.
  • the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, VaNn, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-L-
  • Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)
  • preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to the optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application.
  • hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone be used in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil.
  • Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • a preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, purine and / or at least one purine derivative, sclareol, optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one specific care enhancer.
  • Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing
  • compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol.
  • ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.
  • hair treatment agents contain only ethanol.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a gelling agent By using these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents to the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred, the 0.15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 6% by weight, based on their weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxy
  • the agents used according to the invention in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Protection is sought or protection can be sought for emulsifier-containing agents to be used in the present invention; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention.
  • emulsifiers the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044977 on pages 40 to 42, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure of this application ,
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general considerations with regard to their structure and their physical properties Restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butyl
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group may in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which is used as a compound between the
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X ' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are Ci_ 4 Alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci_ 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X 'is a physiologically acceptable
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18,
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic
  • Anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those available as commercial products
  • Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are commonly used in the compositions used in the invention.
  • UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of
  • At least one of the aforementioned UV filters is combined with purine or a purine derivative, in particular theophylline, and sclareol.
  • the agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J) Preferably, the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).
  • these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or
  • extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-
  • short-chain carboxylic acids may additionally support the active substance complex (A).
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • Chain length from 1 up to 12 C - atoms in the chain.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of purine and / or a
  • Purine derivatives and sclareol for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
  • influencing the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influence on the natural one
  • Coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular
  • skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Very particularly preferred is the term
  • Hair or hair follicles preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.
  • Pigmentation process the positive or negative influence understood at least a partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence affects in particular the
  • Gene regulation i. the regulation at the expression level
  • enzyme regulation i. the regulation of the expression level
  • MCR1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • Enzyme level includes.
  • influencing the positive influence preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or
  • Pigmentation process leads. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, in particular the hair of the head (the hair follicle, which is located on the
  • the pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle
  • the natural pigmentation process in particular melanogenesis
  • the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
  • the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit.
  • the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention.
  • melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
  • the stimulation of the pigmentation means in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
  • the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair.
  • hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
  • a prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying.
  • hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.
  • already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of sclareol and purine and / or purine derivative.
  • the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic.
  • Aging process especially non-pathological hair graying is a purely cosmetic use, which is not a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and thus non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention is topical, i. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or
  • hair that has already become gray is obtained by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative and
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular
  • Stimulation of the natural pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or for repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that purine and / or a purine derivative and sclareol, topically with Hair and / or skin brings into contact.
  • the ligands involved in melanogenesis such as SCF or alpha-MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating
  • Hormones alpha bind to different receptors, through which the corresponding signal into the
  • the receptor for SCF is ckit
  • the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1
  • MCR-1 melanocortin Receptor 1
  • ckit melanocortin Receptor 1
  • GpIOO is a protein that occurs in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilizes them. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive effect on melanogenesis, there is also an increase in the amount needed for transport
  • Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which which induce both gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and induce gene expression of gp100.
  • the determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.
  • RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription.
  • the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal.
  • the fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression).
  • values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed.
  • Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.
  • Example 2 Stimulation of Melanin Synthesis Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments.
  • L-DOPA L-dihydroxyphenylalanine
  • An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et du sclaréol, et l'utilisation de l'agent cosmétique pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel de la peau et/ou des phanères.
EP10732949A 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et du sclaréol Withdrawn EP2473234A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009027962 2009-07-23
DE102009044977A DE102009044977A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2009-09-24 Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend Purin und/oder ein Purinderivat und Sclareol
PCT/EP2010/060037 WO2011009763A2 (fr) 2009-07-23 2010-07-13 Agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et du sclaréol

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EP2473234A2 true EP2473234A2 (fr) 2012-07-11

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EP (1) EP2473234A2 (fr)
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DE102009044977A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend Purin und/oder ein Purinderivat und Sclareol
DE102010043069A1 (de) * 2010-10-28 2012-05-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einer Aminosäure zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
DE102010043068A1 (de) * 2010-10-28 2012-05-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einem Biochinon zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses
FR2977469B1 (fr) * 2011-07-08 2013-08-02 Francois Duret Dispositif de mesure tridimensionnelle utilise dans le domaine dentaire
EP2789369B1 (fr) * 2013-04-14 2018-06-06 Symrise AG Une composition pour éclaircissement de peau et de cheveu

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DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
FR2654935B1 (fr) 1989-11-28 1994-07-01 Lvmh Rech Utilisation de xanthines, eventuellement incorporees dans des liposomes, pour favoriser la pigmentation de la peau ou des cheveux.
US5136093A (en) 1991-02-06 1992-08-04 Smith Ronald J Quaternized panthenol compounds and their use
DE4413686C2 (de) 1994-04-20 1996-10-24 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und deren Verwendung
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EP1229032B1 (fr) * 2001-02-01 2005-04-20 Firmenich Sa 1,3-oxathianes comme ingrédients parfumants ou aromatisants
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JP2007022960A (ja) * 2005-07-15 2007-02-01 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc メラニン生成抑制剤及び美白化粧料
DE102006042231A1 (de) * 2006-09-06 2008-03-27 Henkel Kgaa Mittel, enthaltend Biochinone und Purin oder Purinderivate
EP2014276A1 (fr) 2007-06-20 2009-01-14 Cognis IP Management GmbH Compositions cosmétiques comportant de la sclaréolide et de la hespéridine méthyl chalcone
DE102009044977A1 (de) 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend Purin und/oder ein Purinderivat und Sclareol

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WO2011009763A2 (fr) 2011-01-27
DE102009044977A1 (de) 2011-01-27

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