EP2317969A1

EP2317969A1 - Hair treatment means

Info

Publication number: EP2317969A1
Application number: EP09781408A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche; Thomas Förster
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-09-08
Filing date: 2009-08-03
Publication date: 2011-05-11
Also published as: WO2010026009A1; DE102008046207A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair treatment means, comprising the following in a cosmetically acceptable carrier - at least one surfactant, at least one preservative and at least one oil body, wherein the surfactant(s) is/are derived exclusively from the group of compounds with the following INCI identifications: ammonium coco sulfate, ammonium glycyrrhizate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, capryloyl glycine, carprylyl/capryl glucoside, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, chitosan PCA, hydrogenated apricot kernel oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coco glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated meadowfoam seed oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated Palm glycerides, hydrogenated Palm glycerides citrate, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, sodium coco glucoside tartrate, sodium cocopolyglucose tartrate, sodium coco sulfate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl amino acids, sodium cocoyl glutamate, the preservative(s) is/are derived exclusively from the group of formic acid, formates, benzoic acid, benzoates, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzyl alcohol, propionic acid, propionates, salicylic acid, salicylates, sorbic acid, sorbates, ethanol of a plant origin, and the oil(s) is/are derived exclusively from the group of amaranth seed oil, argan oil, rice germ oil, baobab oil, manetti oil, marula seed oil, yangu seed oil, rambutan oil, buckthorn oil, monoi de tahiti, tigernut oil, Inca inchi oil, avocado oil, cottonseed oil, cupuacu butter, cashew oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkinseed oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn seed oil, almond oil, apricot seed oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil.

Description

HAIR TREATMENT AGENT

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing highly effective combinations of surfactant (s), preservative (s) and oil body (s).

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming. However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently.

Particularly in the case of hair cleansing, an increased hygiene awareness leads to an ever more frequent cleaning of the hair. In order to be here in addition to optimal cleaning and hair care long-term, the funds used must be particularly mild to the hair and scalp. Although mild surfactants from a wide variety of groups are known per se, these do not yet sufficiently satisfy all consumer wishes. For example, it has been shown that frequent hair washing can affect the structure of the keratin fibers, thus requiring the addition of certain substances which enhance the internal structure of the keratin fibers and thus improve the strength, feel and tensile strength of keratin fibers.

There is therefore a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for hair cleansing compositions which not only do not impair the structure of the fibers treated with them but, on the contrary, improve them.

In addition, there is an increasing consumer desire to use "LOHAS" -based cosmetics LOHAS is a marketing term that stands for "Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability" and defines a new lifestyle or consumer type that impacts on consumer health and health Sustainability oriented. It is an object of the present invention to provide hair treatment compositions which impart advantageous properties in terms of strength, feel and tensile strength as well as combability in the dry and wet state to the hair treated with them and which are particularly mild and ecologically compatible.

In particular, two problem areas are to be considered: On the one hand, oil bodies are desired as care substances, but make higher demands on the product formulation, since these must be incorporated stably in order to prevent settling or creaming. On the other hand, the microbial stability of agents which contain few synthetic substances is often more difficult to ensure.

It has now been found that certain combinations of surfactants, preservatives and oil bodies have a very beneficial effect on keratinic fibers, the effect can be increased even by a special formulation of the products by the products are formulated PEG-free. Storage stability and microbiological susceptibility are at the level of conventional formulations or even higher.

In a first embodiment, the subject matter of the present application is a hair treatment composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier,

(a) at least one surfactant,

(b) at least one preservative,

(c) at least one oil body, wherein a) the surfactant or surfactants (s) exclusively / come from the group of compounds with the following INCI names: ammonium coco sulphate, ammonium glycyrrhizate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, caprylic / capric triglycerides , Caprylyl Glycine, Carprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel OiI, Hydrogenated Castor OiI, Hydrogenated Coco- Glycerides, Hydrogenated Coconut OiI, Hydrogenated Jojoba OiI, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Meadowfoam Seed OiI, Hydrogenated Olive OiI, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glyceride Citrate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Pol yglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, sodium coco-glucoside tartrate, sodium cocopolyglucose tartrate, sodium coco sulphate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl aminoacids, sodium cocoyl glutamate, b) the preservative (s) exclusively from the group of formic acid, formates, benzoic acid, benzoates, ethyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol, Propionates, salicylic acid, salicylates, sorbic acid, sorbates, ethanol of vegetable origin, c) the oil (s) exclusively from the group of amaranth seed oil, argan oil, rice germ oil, baobab oil, manetti oil, marula seed oil, yangus seed Oil, Rambutan Oil, Buckthorn Oil, Monoi de Tahiti, Tigernut Oil, Inca Inchi Oil, Avocado Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Cupuagu Butter, Cashew Oil, Thistle Oil, Peanut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Linseed Oil, Macadamia Oil, Corn Oil, Almond Oil , Apricot kernel oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil comes / come. The compositions according to the invention can be used as hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, as hairsprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hairstyling preparations, eg Fönwell lotions, mousses, hair gels, Hair waxes and other hair cleansing and hair treatment products. They may be formulated as "leave-on" or "rinse-off" products on the hair, the latter being preferred.

The compositions of the invention contain at least one surfactant, wherein all surfactants contained in the middle must come from the group of 40 substances mentioned and no surfactants may be included from other groups. The surfactants contained in the compositions of the invention are based on coconut oil or coconut oil (Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Coconut OiI, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate, Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, sodium cocoyl glutamate) or sugars or other renewable raw materials such as palm kernel oil, etc.

The compositions of the invention contain at least one preservative, wherein all preservatives contained in the middle must come from the group of the 13 substances mentioned and no preservatives from other groups may be included. The preservatives contained in the compositions according to the invention are also accessible from natural sources. An inventively particularly preferred preservative is ethanol of plant origin, which is obtained for example by fermentation from biomass. The compositions according to the invention contain at least one oil body, wherein all the oil bodies contained in the middle must originate from the group of substances named 33 and no oil bodies from other groups may be contained. The oil bodies contained in the agents according to the invention are also accessible from natural sources.

A preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is amaranth seed oil. A suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.

Another preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is argan oil. Argan oil is the oil of the seed of argan fruit. A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is rice germ oil.

A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is baobab oil.

A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is Manetti oil. The Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is a species of the genus of cedars (Cedrus) in the family of the pine family (Pinaceae). A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is Marula seed oil.

A preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is Yangus seed oil. Yangu oil, also known as Cape nut oil, is extracted from the seeds of the African Yangu tree.

A preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is rambutan oil.

A preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is Buckthorn oil, also known as buckthorn oil.

A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is Monoi de Tahiti. Monoi Oil or Monoi Tiare de Tahiti is a traditional beauty product made in French Polynesia.

A preferred oil body which can be used according to the invention is Tigernut oil, also called Erdmandelöl.

A preferred oil body usable according to the invention is Inca Inchi oil.

The compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant from the group mentioned, at least one preservative from the group mentioned and at least one oil body from the group mentioned. Preferred agents of the invention contain specially selected ones

Combinations of surfactant, preservative and oil body. Some of these more preferred combinations are listed in the priority document on pages 9-654.

Agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least one of those mentioned therein

Combinations to which reference is explicitly made here.

The agents according to the invention contain the abovementioned substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Preferably, this contains as little petrochemical based

Ingredients.

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain compounds of the formula (I)

H- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH (I) in which n stands for integers between 1 and 100,000.

The hair cleansing compositions according to the invention of this embodiment are free of polyethylene glycols of the general formula (I), ie they contain neither ethylene glycol (n = 1) nor Products with a degree of polymerisation P _n = 2-4 (diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and tetraethylene glycol) or polyethylene glycols with higher degrees of polymerization P _n of about 5 to 100,000, which are no longer uniform molar but polydisperse. Surprisingly, the omission of compounds of the formula (I) means that the combination of active ingredients has a significantly better effect on the hair. In particular, the strengthening of the keratinic fibers, which manifests itself in improved combing in the dry and especially in the wet state, and the fullness and smoothness are improved.

Preferably, the agents according to the invention are not only free of polyethylene glycols but also of polypropylene glycols (PPG). Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain compounds of the formula (II)

H- (O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ) _n -OH (II) in which n stands for integers between 1 and 100,000.

Such preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are free of polypropylene glycols of the general formula (II), ie they contain neither propylene glycol (n = 1) nor products with a degree of polymerisation P _n = 2-4 (dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol and tetrapropylene glycol) or polypropylene glycols with higher degrees of polymerization P _n from about 5 to 100,000, which are no longer molar-uniform producible, but polydisperse. These compounds also hinder the unfolding of the effect of the combination of active ingredients on the hair, so that the improved effects can be observed by dispensing with their use.

It has been found that preferably should be dispensed with the use of ethoxylated compounds. In particular, nonionic surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl ethoxylate type also reduce the positive effects of the agents according to the invention and should therefore not be used in the formulations. Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they do not contain compounds of the formula (INI)

R- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH (III) wherein R is any alkyl or alkenyl group and n is an integer between 1 and 10,000.

Ethoxylated anionic surfactants can also - albeit to a lesser extent - reduce the positive effect. In particular, alkyl ether sulfates have been found to be problematic here, while alkyl ether carboxylates show less effect-reducing effects than the ether sulfates. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention therefore contain no compounds of the formula (IV)

R- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OSO ₃ H (IV) wherein R is any alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is an integer between 1 and 10,000. In particularly preferred inventive agents is completely dispensed with the use of compounds having ethoxylated groups. Interestingly, a hydroxyethyl moiety (eg, in certain surfactants) does not affect the effect of the agents of the present invention while ethylene glycol affects the effect. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention therefore contain no compound which contains the grouping - (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- with n = 1-10,000. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no compounds which contain the grouping of the formula (V)

- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - (V), where n is an integer between 2 and 100,000.

According to particularly preferred means additionally contain a fruit and / or vegetable juice.

Agents preferred according to the invention comprise at least one fruit juice, this being preferably used within narrower ranges of amounts. Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight and in particular from 35 to 60% by weight. contain at least one fruit juice.

Fruit juice (fruit juice) in the sense of the present invention is the fermentable, but not fermented juice obtained from fruits by means of mechanical methods. Equally juxtaposed with these fruit juices are concentrated fruit juices obtained by adding concentrated water (in the form of water of appropriate quality) and the separated volatile flavorings to reconstituted juices (so-called reconstituted fruit juices). The pulp separated in the concentration of the original fruit juice or juices of the same fruit type may be added to the reconstituted fruit juice up to the amount contained in the original juice.

Fruit juices are either produced directly from fresh fruit as "juice" and bottled or obtained from semi-finished products, such as fruit juice concentrates or from pulp-containing fruit pulp or fruit pulp concentrates. The production of fruit juice from concentrate is especially important for orange juices. They are concentrated in the producer country and rediluted in the consumer country.

Particularly preferred fruit juices to be used are - individually or mixed with one another - apple juice and / or orange juice and / or other citrus fruits. In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one fruit juice from the group of apple juice, orange juice, grape juice, lemon juice, lime juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, currant juice, cherry juice, shadow morel juice, apricot juice, peach juice, nectarine juice, plum juice, mirabelle juice, passion fruit juice, plum juice, puree raspberry juice, blackberry juice , Raspberry juice, strawberry juice, pineapple juice, pomegranate juice, lychee juice, mango juice, tangerine juice, papaya juice, pitahaya juice, star fruit juice, pear juice, quince juice, medlar juice, Savory juice, rowan juice, gooseberry juice, blueberry juice, cranberry juice, tayberry juice, cranberry juice, elderberry juice, apple juice, sea buckthorn juice included.

For organic reasons and taking into account the sustainability aspect, organic fruits are to be preferred. Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention which contain fruit and / or vegetable juices from controlled organic cultivation are therefore particularly preferred.

The agents according to the invention contain the abovementioned substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. This may contain various solvents, preference being given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are exclusively solvents from the group

Ethanol (alcohol) of vegetable origin fats and oils of vegetable origin glycerin from fats and oils of vegetable origin containing water.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all ingredients customary for cosmetic compositions, for example those from the groups of nonionic polymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, for example.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic,

Karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g.

Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and

Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic

Hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether , Di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n Undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-

Hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.

Butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, fiber structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,

Almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well

Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,

Thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants. contain. However, particular preference is given to dispensing with the use of synthetic substances, and agents of this preferred embodiment contain, in addition to the already mentioned substances from the groups of surfactants, preservatives, oil bodies and solvents exclusively natural ingredients. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain exclusively natural ingredients in addition to the substances already mentioned.

The care effects of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by using certain care substances. Preferably, these are selected from certain groups of known care substances, since these care substances harmonize perfectly in terms of formulation and the care effect with the active ingredient combination used according to the invention.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain care substances (e), based on their weight, in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group i. L-carnitine and / or its salts; ii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; iii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; iv. Taurine and / or its salts; v. niacinamide; vi. Ubiquinone vii. Ectoin; viii. Allantoin.

In hair treatment compositions according to the invention of this embodiment, the active ingredient combination is combined with at least one care substance which is selected from L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone, taurine and / or its Salts, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin. These caring ingredients are described below. L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) - Λ /, Λ /, Λ / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance. As betaine, L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts. L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are in particular selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany). Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05% by weight contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

Panthenol (ILJPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body. Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5). Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight. % and in particular 0.25 to 1 wt .-% panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).

According to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II) in which the radicals R ¹ to R ^{10 are} independently of one another

Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

- a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,

- a group -CONR ¹⁵ R ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical, a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or a diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

- a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical, with the proviso in that, when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ¹⁰ does not represent a dihydroxyethyl radical. Preferred compounds of the formula (fur-I) and / or of the formula (fur-II) can be compounds in which the substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ⁷ independently of one another represent:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , where R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or - or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical, a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono, di-trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,

- a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, or a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical.

In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it has been found that, in the case of the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{8 are} preferably independently of one another

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical or a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical.

Furthermore, it may be preferred for the radicals R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ in the active substance according to the formula (I) and / or formula (II) according to the invention to stand independently of one another for:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Hydrocarbon radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical or

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono, di or triaminocarbon radical.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, a compound of the formula (Fur-I) is used. It may be preferred that in a compound of the formula (fur-I), the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono, di-trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,

- a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, in this particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be advantageous if in the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent:

Is hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, an -OR group ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , where R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, verzw eigten or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical.

In this preferred embodiment, it may furthermore be advantageous for the compounds of the formula (Fur I) for the radicals R 5 and R _{6 to} stand independently for: a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

(R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-Y-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

(S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na salt and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K-salt and / or

2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound according to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Another preferred group of care agents in the compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below: The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin) Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group (see below). Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably Contain 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ . It has been shown that certain quinones have a special suitability as a care substance. As a further care substance, the compositions according to the invention can therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

contained in the

X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR- or a chemical bond

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -Ce) - Alkylene group, or a (C-rC ₆ ) acyl radical, wherein preferred radicals are independently selected from -H, CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ ,

(CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Preferred compounds of the formula (Ubi) according to the invention are, for example

in which

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ each independently represent -H,

CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , or -CH ₂ CH ₃ , or - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

(Ubi), in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula

contain.

As a further care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin. Ectoine ((4S) - 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. The highly water-binding low molecular weight organic compound occurs in halophilic bacteria and allows these extremophilic organisms under Survive stress conditions. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0 , 1 to 1% by weight of (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5- Hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

Another remedy is allantoin. Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, Λ / - (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea) is the final product of nucleic acid degradation, especially of purine, in various animal species, especially mammals, in addition to uric acid. According to the invention, particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1 5% ureidohydantoin (allantoin). To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as a care substance. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as a care substance means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), preferred agents containing purine and / or purine derivative (s) of formula (Pur-I)

(Pur-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , with the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

It is also advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain ratio to each other. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and biochinone (s) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10. As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative, and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a conditioner, the compositions of the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups are preferred as a care substance because of their particularly intense action. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin. According to the invention particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of flavonoids, in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-O-rutinoside (rutin), included.

Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as a care substance in the inventive compositions. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol.

Creatine is also suitable as a care substance according to the invention. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic acid found in vertebrates and the like. a. contributes to supplying the muscles with energy. Creatine is synthesized in the kidney, liver and pancreas. It is formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine and is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% Λ / -methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

In addition to the care substances, the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, VaNn, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine. As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out

Monosaccharides, in particular D-ribose and / or, D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose disaccharides, in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight % Caffeine and 0.75-1.5% by weight fructose. As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s). Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to

0.25% by weight of valine.

As already mentioned, the abovementioned substances are preferably of natural origin, i. not synthetically manufactured or modified.

Especially preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain, apart from the surfactants, preservatives, oil bodies and solvents mentioned, only ingredients from a limited group of natural substances. Such hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to the substances already mentioned, they contain exclusively substances from the group of compounds with the following INCI names: alginic acid, aluminum hydroxides, aluminum stearates, ammonium aluminum, anhydroxylitol, arginines, ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Behenyl Alcohol, Behenyl Beeswax, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, C14-22 Alcohols, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Glycerophosphate, Calcium Lactate, Ceramide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol , Cetyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cl 75470, Cl 75810, Coco Glucoside, Coconut Alcohol, Com Starch Modified, Decyl Cocoate, Decyl Glucoside, Decyl Oleate, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Dextrin Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dihydroxyacetone, Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Citrate, Disodium Cocoyl Eq Ullamate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Distarch Phosphate, Erythrulose, Ethyl Lactate, Glucose Glutamate, Glyceral Lactate, Glycerol, Glyceryl Abietate, Glyceryl Caprate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Dioleate, Glyceryl Distearate, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Linoleates, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Sorbitan Oleostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm OiI, Hydrogenated Peanut OiI, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Vegetable OiI, Hydrolyzed Algae Extract, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Fibroin, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Sick, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Jojoba Esters, Lanolin Alcohol, Lauroyl Lysine, Lauryl Alcohol , Lauryl Lactate, Le vulinic acid, magnesium gluconate, magnesium stearate, maltodextrin, methyl Glucose Dioleate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Myristic Acid, Myristil Alcohol, Myristil Lactate, Myristil Myristate, Octyldodecanol, Oleyl Alcohol, Oleyl Erucate, Palm Kernel Acid, Palmitic Acid, PCA, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, PCA Glyceryl Oleate, Phytosteryl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Potassium Chloride Potassium Cocoate Potassium Hydroxide Potassium Laurate Potassium Myristate Potassium Olivate Potassium Palmitate Potassium Silicate Potassium Sorbate Potassium Stearate Saccharide Isomerate Sodium Alginate Sodium Beeswax Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate Sodium Chloride , Sodium Citrate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Myristate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Oleanolate, Sodium Olivate, Sodium Palm Kernelate , Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Ursolate, Sorbitan Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitol, Squalane, Squalene, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Beeswax, Sucrose Cocoate, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Palmitates, Sucrose Stearate, Sulfated Castor OiI, Tricaprylin, Triethyl Citrate, Xylitol, Xylityl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Zinc Ricinoleate, Zinc Stearate.

Claims

claims:

1. hair treatment composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier -

(a) at least one surfactant,

(b) at least one preservative,

(c) at least one oil body, characterized in that a) the surfactant or surfactants (s) exclusively / come from the group of compounds with the following INCI names: ammonium coco sulphate, ammonium glycyrrhizate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Capryloyl Glycines, Carprylyl / Capryl Glucosides, Chitosan Glycolates, Chitosan Lactates, Chitosan PCA, Hydrogenated Apricot Kernels OiI, Hydrogenated Castor OiI, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Hydrogenated Coconut OiI, Hydrogenated Jojoba OiI, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Meadowfoam Seed OiI , Hydrogenated Palm OiI, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl 3 oleates, polyglyceryl-3 palmitates, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleates, poly Glyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate, Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate, Sodium Coco Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, b) the preservative (s) comes exclusively from the group of formic acid, formates, benzoic acid, benzoates, ethyl benzoate, benzyl alcohol, propionic acid, propionates, salicylic acid, salicylates, sorbic acid, sorbates, ethanol of vegetable origin, c) the oil (s) exclusively from the group amaranth seed oil, argan oil, rice germ oil, baobab oil, Manetti oil, Marula seed oil, yangusame oil, rambutan oil, Buckthorn oil, Monoi de Tahiti, Tigernut oil, Inca Inchi oil, avocado oil, cottonseed oil, Cupuagu Butter, cashew oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, Ra psöl, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil comes / originate.

2. hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that there are no compounds of formula (I)

3. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that there are no compounds of formula (I))

4. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that there are no compounds of formula (III)

R- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH (III) in which R is any alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is an integer between 1 and 3

10,000 stands.

5. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that there are no compounds of formula (IV)

R- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ J _n -OSO ₃ H (IV) where R is any alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is an integer between 1 and 4

10,000 stands.

6. hair treatment agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that there are no compounds containing the grouping of formula (V)

- (0-CH ₂ CH ₂ J _n - (V), where n is an integer between 2 and 100,000.

7. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 20 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 25 to 75 wt .-%, more preferably 30 to 70 wt .-% and in particular Contains 35 to 60 wt .-% of at least one fruit juice.

8. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is only solvent from the group

Ethanol (alcohol) of vegetable origin Fats and oils of vegetable origin Glycerin from fats and oils of vegetable origin contains water.

9. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains in addition to the already mentioned substances exclusively natural ingredients.

10. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains in addition to the already mentioned substances exclusively substances from the group of compounds with the following INCI names: alginic acid, aluminum hydroxides, aluminum stearates, ammonium alum, anhydroxylitol , Arginine, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Behenyl Alcohol, Behenyl Beeswax, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, C14-22 Alcohols, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Glycerophosphate, Calcium Lactate, Ceramide, Cetearyl Alcohol , Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cl 75470, Cl 75810, Coco Glucoside, Coconut Alcohol, Com Starch Modified, Decyl Cocoate, Decyl Glucoside, Decyl Oleate, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Dextrin Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Ether , Dihydroxyacetones, Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Citrate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate e, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Distarch Phosphates, Erythrulose, Ethyl Lactates, Glucose Glutamate, Glyceral Lactates, Glycerol, Glyceryl Abietate, Glyceryl Caprate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Dioleate, Glyceryl Distearate, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Linoleates, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Sorbitan Oleostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm OiI, Hydrogenated Peanut OiI, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Hydrogenated Vegetable OiI, Hydrolyzed Algae Extract, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Fibroin, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Sick, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Jojoba Esters, Lanolin Alcohol, Lauroyl Lysine, Lauryl Alcohol , Lauryl Lactate, Levulini c Acid, Magnesium Gluconate, Magnesium Stearate, Maltodextrin, Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Myristic Acid, Myristil Alcohol, Myristil Lactate, Myristile Myristate, Octyldodecanol, Oleyl Alcohol, Oleyl Erucate, Palm Kernel Acid, Palmitic Acid, PCA, PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate, PCA Glyceryl Oleate, Phytosteryl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Cocoate, Potassium Hydroxide, Potassium Laurate, Potassium Myristate, Potassium Olivate, Potassium Palmitate, Potassium Silicate, Potassium Sorbate, Potassium Stearate, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Alginate, Sodium Beeswax, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Myristate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Oleanolate, Sodium Olivate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palmitate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Ursolate, Sorbitan Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitol, Squalane, Squalene, Stearic Acid , Stearyl beeswax, sucrose cocoate, sucrose Distearates, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Palmitate, Sucrose Stearate, Sulfated Castor OiI, Tricaprylin, Triethyl Citrate, Xylitol, Xylityl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Zinc Ricinoleate, Zinc Stearate.

11. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally care substance (s) - in terms of its weight - in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, wherein preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group ii. L-carnitine and / or its salts; iii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid; iv. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; v. Taurine and / or its salts; vi. niacinamide; vii. Ubiquinone viii. Ectoin; ix. Allantoin.