EP2312969A2 - Cosmetic heat treatment method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of makeup and/or non-therapeutic care for non-fibrous human keratin material, particularly the skin, the mucus membranes thereof, or the nails, comprising the steps that include: - bringing an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition, having a temperature-sensitive dynamic rub coefficient, into contact with, or near, a heating device, said dynamic rub coefficient, at 25°C, being greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably 0.6, so as to heat said piece in a localized manner with a view to essentially softening only said outer surface and lowering the dynamic rub coefficient thereof; and - applying the outer surface of the thus-heated composition onto the area to be treated.

Description

 Heating cosmetic treatment method

The present invention relates to the application of a cosmetic product to human keratin materials, especially the skin or the lips.

The invention relates more particularly to the application of a product (also called "composition") initially in the form of a piece of solid product (also called "product mass"), in particular stick (also called "grape"). or "stick").

The present invention also relates to solid cosmetic compositions for the makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, providing a shiny effect.

Background

Lipsticks have been packaged for a long time into sticks for direct application to the lips. In this case, the formulation of the lipstick must meet the requirements of a mechanical part to ensure the sliding and holding of the stick during application and prevent it from breaking and of other hand of transfer to guarantee a comfortable application as well as a sufficient deposit and of good quality on the lips.

These requirements are generally considered as antagonistic and lead to formulation constraints that it would be desirable to be able to relax. The application US 2004 / 0,096,258 discloses a device for packaging and applying a lipstick which comprises a vibration generator and a heat generator. The vibration generator makes it possible to perform a massage action with a hot surface.

It is also known from the European patent application EP 0 223 603 to subject the lipstick sticks, during their manufacture, to a flaming operation which consists in briefly heating the surface of the stick so as to increase its gloss. area.

The application EP 1 595 472 A2 discloses a device for reshaping the application surface of a product contained in a body, comprising an electrical resistance. Heat is generally considered detrimental to the mechanical strength of a rod-shaped product and it has been proposed in US 4,393,975 a refrigeration device for protecting the rod heat.

The publication US 2008 / 0,143,214 discloses a packaging device comprising a hood covered with a heating wire, for heating a depilatory wax stick or a lipstick.

At the same time, aside from the color that is the essential feature of a lipstick, users often look for shine. While it is relatively easy to provide gloss with liquid formulas, it is much more difficult with a product in the form of a solid mass.

There is thus a need to bring more shine from stick lipsticks.

Many users also want performance in terms of makeup hold. However, performance in terms of gloss and strength are generally obtained by different mechanisms and often antagonistic.

There is thus a need to benefit from products capable of conferring both shine and hold.

Finally, the sensory aspect is very important for products packaged in sticks, because the user is only in contact with the product during application, especially for lipsticks, and the performance improvement in terms of shine and holding can not be done without respecting this sensory aspect.

It is thus known that a certain number of ingredients capable of providing advantageous characteristics to the product, in terms of gloss or strength, for example, such as polymers, especially when they have a relatively high molecular weight, adversely affect the qualities application, or even make it impossible.

The qualities of mechanical or thermal resistance further complicate the task of the formulator by making it difficult to produce weakly structured rods in order to allow a large transfer. A known solution for incorporating certain compounds difficult to cold apply is to reduce the diameter of the stick, for example to 8 mm, and to provide on the case a chimney around the stick. Such rods used on such cases need a lower wax content to ensure their holding. Nevertheless, consumers generally prefer larger rods larger than 10 mm in diameter.

There is a need to improve the performance of a product in the form of a solid mass, whether sensory and / or in terms of makeup result, while maintaining the product mechanical properties compatible with the product. packaging in a stick or other solid form and with a frictional application on the surface to be treated.

There is also a need to find a way to incorporate in a product all the compounds necessary to obtain satisfactory holding properties and / or gloss without affecting otherwise the application qualities of the product.

In particular, there is a need to find a means for incorporating in such a product one or more oils necessary to obtain satisfactory gloss properties without harming the application qualities of the product. Thus, it is known that it is possible to confer a gloss character, classically by the use in this type of composition, of glossy oils generally viscous. The use of these compounds then generally affects the qualities of comfort in the application especially in terms of slippery. The addition of fluid oils that is to say of low viscosity certainly helps to overcome this defect but unfortunately can be detrimental to the migrant nature of these oils.

There is therefore a need for a makeup mode that makes it possible to take advantage of the high gloss power of certain viscous oils without also requiring the use of compounds capable of providing for this high viscosity.

There is also a need for makeup mode allowing the use of high amounts of highly glossy viscous oils so far not considered on the grounds that they are not compatible with good quality of application.

The object of the invention is precisely to propose a new mode of make-up and / or care making it possible to satisfy all the aforementioned requirements.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of human keratin materials non-fibrous materials, in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the nails, in which a surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition having a temperature-sensitive dynamic coefficient of friction is brought into contact with or in the vicinity of a heating device, greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25 ^° C., more preferably greater than or equal to 0.6 at 25 ^° C., so as to heat said piece locally so as essentially to soften only said outer surface and to lower its coefficient dynamic friction method, wherein the outer surface of the composition thus heated is then applied to the region to be treated, and in particular makeup, said composition being different from a composition in the form of a stick of red lipstick. diameter 12.7 mm, in particular defined as follows, the quantities being expressed as percentage by weight:

BHT 0.06

PEG-45 / DODECYL GLYCOL COPOLYMER 6

OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE 18

POLYBUTENE 15

TRIISOSTEARIN 7

OCTYLDODECYL / PPG-3 MYRISTYL ETHER DIMER DILINOLEATE 1

BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 15

ISOSTEARYL ISOSTERATE 10

DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITY 1

YELLOW 6 LAKE 7

RED 7 4

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1

POLYETHYLENE 5

MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX 7

MICA 2.94

The piece of composition may be in continuous contact with or near the heater and may be activated prior to application of the composition to raise the temperature of the outer surface of the composition piece. Alternatively, the piece of composition is brought into contact or proximity of the heater for use, for the application of the composition.

According to an alternative embodiment, the composition considered according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of glossy oil (s), said glossy oil being a hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400 g / mol.

Thus, according to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for making and / or non-therapeutic care of human non-fibrous keratin materials, in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the nails, comprising at least the steps consisting in: bringing into contact with or in the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition so as to heat said piece in a localized manner so as essentially to soften only said outer surface, in particular with a view to lowering it dynamic coefficient of friction, and - then apply the outer surface of the composition thus heated to the region to be treated, and in particular makeup, said composition comprising a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight of oil (s) brilliant (s) ) relative to the total weight of the composition, said glossy oil being a hydrocarbon or silicone oil of higher molecular weight is equal to 400 g / mol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a makeup process.

According to an alternative embodiment, the composition considered according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based glossy oil in combination with less than 40% or even less than 30% by weight of a fluid oil, said fluid oil having in particular a lower molecular weight at 400 g / mol.

According to a particular embodiment, the softened outer surface is brought into direct contact with the region to be treated, and in particular with keratin materials.

In other words, no applicator is used to deposit the softened composition.

According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to a kit comprising: a composition as defined above, and - A heating device for locally heating a surface of a piece of said composition, the composition being in particular in the form of a rod with a diameter other than 12.7 mm.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term solid, especially at ambient temperature (for example at 20 ^° C.), means a composition of high consistency which retains its shape during storage, in particular which does not flow under its own weight.

When the composition is in the form of a stick, the outer surface may be defined as the end thereof. The invention can be used to heat the surface just before application, for example the top of the bevel of a lipstick rod made with a composition according to the invention, to allow the deposit, and this even if the rod contains compounds unsuitable for satisfactory cold application, these compounds providing increased performance in terms of strength and / or gloss. In exemplary embodiments of the invention, by warming the surface of the stick, it is possible to improve its sliding and therefore its application on the lips or the skin.

The solid composition advantageously has a hardness of greater than or equal to 80 Nm ^-1 at 20 ^° C., better still greater than or equal to 100 Nm ^-1 , or even 120 Nm ^-1 at 20 ^° C., which makes the rod resistant on the plane mechanical and allows its packaging for example in a conventional case having two parts rotatable relative to each other to move the stick.

The dynamic coefficient of friction may be, at the temperature at which the composition is heated, less than or equal to 0.45, more preferably 0.4. The dynamic coefficient of friction that is greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25 ^° C. can thus become, for example, less than or equal to 0.45 at 45 ^° C., that is to say reach a value comparable to certain reds at known lips intended for application at 25 ^° C.

The invention can be applied to a stick of texture product such that its cold application is difficult and / or comprising glossy application polymers without virtually impossible or unpleasant heating. For such a product stick, the application after heating becomes possible, with higher gloss performance. The invention makes it possible to condition a composition in the form of a rod, for example of diameter greater than or equal to 7 mm, preferably of relatively large diameter, for example greater than or equal to 10 mm, and for example less than or equal to 50 mm, without problems of holding or transfer of the product, because the structuring compounds introduced, annoying for a cold application, are less when the temperature increases.

The product may be a product to be applied to the lips, such as a lipstick or a lip gloss. The products concerned by the invention are however not limited to make-up products, and the invention also relates to non-therapeutic skincare products.

The product can be heated in various ways, for example by being exposed to infrared radiation or radio radiation.

The product can be further heated by blowing hot air, being exposed to ultrasonic vibrations or by heat transfer in contact with or near a hot surface, which for example bears radially against the outer surface, particularly end of the stick. The hot surface may also bear axially against the outer surface, in particular the end of the stick. The hot surface may have a shape of bevel, inverted cone or concave hollow, including spherical. The hot surface can be traversed by the piece of product, including the stick and have for this purpose an annular shape.

The piece of product may be in the form of a stick, the hot surface coming for example in contact with or facing the end face of the stick.

The heating may take place only at the end of the stick, the hot surface not coming, for example, not cover the side surface of the stick.

The piece of product can be initially molded into the desired shape, for example rod-shaped, without any reinforcement, such as conventional lipstick sticks, or on a frame and / or a gripping part, being supported for example at end of a stem. The product can be heated while the piece of product is completely contained in a packaging device. When applying, the user may not come into contact with his product fingers.

The product can be heated while the piece of product is at least partially exposed to ambient air. The outer surface of the product may be heated to a temperature Tf greater than or equal to 40 ^° C., or even greater than 45 ^° C. or even greater than 50 ^° C. The outer surface may be heated to a temperature Tf of between 40 ^° C. and 95 ⁰ C, more preferably 45 ⁰ C to 85 ⁰ C, more preferably 45 ⁰ C to 75 ⁰ C. The temperature of the application surface, in particular the end of the stick, must not involve a risk of burning at the time of the application. This is why a waiting time between the moment when the end is heated and the application to the keratin materials may possibly be necessary.

The temperature difference between the heated outer surface and the portion of the product which remains solid may be greater than or equal to 5 ^° C., better still greater than or equal to 15 ^° C. or 20 ^° C., at least at the beginning of the application, even greater than 30 ^° C.

Only the product can come into contact with the treated area during the application.

The piece of product may be secured, during the application, a base portion comprising a mechanism for moving the mass of product relative to a gripping surface of the base portion by the user, including a mechanism comprising two pieces rotating relative to each other.

The outer surface softened by the heater may be supported by the piece of solid cosmetic composition at the time of application. Alternatively, the softened outer surface may be otherwise supported after transfer to a support for application. It is thus possible, in one embodiment of the invention, to heat the product and to take it off with an applicator or a finger to apply it to the skin or the lips. The piece of product may be contained in a cup, and it comes to heat the upper surface of the product present in the cup.

The heating device may remain integral or not with the piece of solid cosmetic composition at the time of application of the softened outer surface on human keratin materials. The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a device for packaging and applying a product in the form of a solid piece, in particular a stick, comprising:

a support for said piece of solid product, the latter having an outer surface, in particular an end;

a heating device integral with or capable of being secured to the packaging and application device, in contact with or capable of being brought into contact with or in the vicinity of said outer surface in order to heat said piece in a localized manner, with a view to essentially softening only said outer surface, for example to a depth of 0.5 mm to 5 mm, more preferably 0.5 mm to 2 mm.

In other words, especially in the case of heat transfer by conduction, convection or infrared radiation, the heat is not transmitted to the application surface from the heart of the piece of product, but from the outside.

The product may advantageously have, as mentioned above, a coefficient of dynamic friction greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25 ^° C., more preferably 0.6 at 25 ° C. The heating device may be housed in a closing cap of the support , so as to heat the outer surface with the hood in place on the support. The heating device can also be housed elsewhere than in a closure cap of the support. The heating device can be housed in a housing on which the support can be engaged so that heating can take place when the support is engaged in the housing, in particular a housing having an opening in which the piece of solid product can to be engaged, preferably without the entire support being disposed inside the housing. The heating device may be integral with the packaging and application device.

The heater may be arranged to engage the outer surface.

The heating device may be arranged to be traversed by the piece of product, including a hot surface of annular shape. The heater may include control means to allow the user to control its operation. This control means may comprise a switch present on the support or on a closure cover of the support.

The heater may include an electrical resistor for heating a surface that can contact or be near the application surface.

The heating device may comprise an infrared emitter arranged to subject the application surface to infrared light in order to heat it, and a radio-frequency emission means for raising the temperature of the outer surface, a blower to blow hot air on the outer surface or a source of ultrasound to warm the outer surface.

The heating device may also comprise at least two components capable of producing, when mixed, an exothermic reaction.

The piece of product may be rod-shaped and the outer surface defined by the end of the stick.

The heating device may comprise a source of electrical energy comprising one or more batteries or accumulators.

The heater may include a user operated electric generator. The heating device may comprise means for heating the piece of composition to a predetermined temperature, despite wear of said piece. This means may comprise an elastically deformable member, which provides contact or a constant separation between the outer surface to be heated and the heating device, compensating for the wear of the piece of composition. These means may also include, where appropriate, a temperature sensor that adjusts the heating power, for example increase if the outer surface is further away from the heat source.

Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for making and / or non-therapeutic care of non-fibrous human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the nails, comprising the steps of: - heating in contact with or in the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition having a hardness greater than or equal to 80 Nm ^"1 so as to heat said piece in a localized manner, apply the thus heated composition on the area to be treated, including make-up.

Dynamic coefficient of friction

To characterize the dynamic coefficient of friction of the product, it is possible to use an apparatus comprising a carriage which moves over a length of 100 mm on ball bearings.

The good carriage movement is ensured thanks to a rigid link to the movable cross member of a tensile and compression machine (TAXT2 from Rheo) placed in a horizontal position by a magnet fixed to the rear of the carriage.

The product S whose dynamic coefficient of friction is to be evaluated is cut at one end with a 250 μm diameter tungsten wire by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min and perpendicular to its longitudinal axis so as to have a flat contact surface parallel to the sliding surface W.

A normal force Fn is applied to the sliding surface W by means of a weight. This weight is such that the pressure exerted on the surface of the product S in contact with W is 7.9 × 10 ^-3 MPa.

The product can be in the form of a cylindrical rod of revolution.

In the case where the cross section of the rod is not circular, the stick is slid in the direction of the minor axis of its section, moving the major axis parallel to itself.

The coefficient of friction is defined as the ratio of the tangential force Ft applied to the body set in motion in the direction M to the normal force Fn experienced by the same body, as illustrated in FIG. 15.

In a friction test, it is possible to distinguish a first transitional phase of setting the system in motion and a second phase of continuous operation.

In the first phase, the tangential force increases to reach a maximum that corresponds to the setting in motion of the system. This maximum corresponds to the static friction force called static Ft and allows to define a coefficient of static friction (μs) μs = Ft static / Fn where Fn is the normal force applied. The tangential force Ft then decreases to generally reach a more stable regime. The dynamic coefficient of friction is defined in this phase of the motion as the ratio of the dynamic friction force (tangential force) to the applied normal force (Fn): μd = dynamic Ft / Fn The coefficient of friction is a dimensionless quantity, function of the two surfaces in contact and the conditions of contact.

The sliding surface is defined by the artificial skin, reference "BIO SKIN Plate Black K275" from MACREPOS, of width equal to or greater than that of the section of the stick. For a measurement at 25 ^° C., all the apparatus and the composition are

25 ^° C.

The artificial skin is placed on a support that can be heated to the temperature at which it is desired to measure the coefficient of dynamic friction. For example, the artificial skin thus heated, for example at 45 ^° C., if the measurement is to be carried out at 45 ^° C., is applied to the stick initially at a temperature of 25 ^° C. The surface temperature of the artificial skin can be controlled. with an optical thermometer.

In some embodiments, the dynamic friction coefficient of a composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.6 or 0.7 or 0.8, at 25 ⁰ C. The coefficient of dynamic friction at 25 ⁰ C compositions according to the invention may be less than or equal to 5.

The stick may have a diameter of 12.7 mm at its area of contact with the sliding surface, but other values are possible, ranging for example from 7 mm to 50 mm. Hardness parameter

The invention is advantageously applied to relatively hard compositions at room temperature and which under the action of heat become sufficiently soft to be applicable. The hardness can be measured at 20 ^° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. 250 μm diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100mm / min. The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by the wire on the stick at 20 ^° C., this force being measured by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from Indelco-Chatillon. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged.

The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter in meters.

The hardness is converted by the equation below:

(Yx 10 ^"3 x9.8) / L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the entire stick is heated to the temperature at which the hardness is to be measured. According to this method, the hardness at 20 ^° C. of examples of composition according to one aspect of the invention is greater than 80 Nm ^{"1 in} particular greater than 100 Nm, preferably greater than 120 Nm ^{" 1} .

A composition of the invention is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contains a physiologically acceptable non-toxic medium that can be applied to the lips of humans. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch, suitable for use in cosmetics.

According to an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic compositions considered according to the invention also contain at least one coloring agent. As specified below, this definition covers any organic or inorganic material capable of providing a colored and / or optical effect. According to another variant embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least 30% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of a composition, in particular at least 50% by weight, or even at least 70% in weight. According to yet another alternative embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise a fatty phase containing at least 5%, in particular at least 7% and in particular at least 10% by weight of solid fatty substance (s) relative to the total weight. of the fatty phase, or even at least 20% by weight, or at least 30% by weight.

The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at ambient temperature (25 ^° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Oil

The oil may be chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils; in particular the hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone and / or fluorinated, volatile or non-volatile and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

Brilliant Oil A composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one glossy oil.

More precisely, "brilliant oil" according to the invention is understood to mean a hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a molecular mass greater than 400 g / mol or even

500 g / mol, especially at 650 g / mol. In particular, this glossy oil may have a molar mass ranging from 400 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 650 to 10,000 g / mol and more particularly ranging from 650 to 5,000 g / mol.

In particular, a composition comprises a sufficient amount of glossy oil (s) to provide at least one gloss-like makeup performance. A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of oil (s)) brilliant (s) ranging from 10 to 80%, for example from 15 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% and even more preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, or even 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This shiny oil can be polar or apolar.

This glossy oil is advantageously an oil chosen from high molecular weight oils having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from 500 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 500 to 8000 g / mol and more particularly from 550 to 7500 g / mol. g / mol.

Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.

The gloss oil is preferably a non-volatile oil.

Advantageously, a hydrocarbon-based glossy oil that can be used in the present invention can be chosen from:

lipophilic polymers such as:

polybutylenes such as, for example, INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160g / mol), marketed or manufactured by AMOCO,

hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, such as, for example, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol),

polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as, for example: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol), marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS,

copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as, for example: the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol),

esters such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol),

hydroxylated esters such as, for example, polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol), triisocetyl citrate (MW = 864 g / mol), diisostearyl malate (MW = 639 g / mol), such as sold under the name Schercemol DISM by the company Lubrizol,

aromatic esters such as, for example, tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of branched fatty alcohol or of C24-C28 fatty acids such as, for example, those described in application EP-AO 955; 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), tri decyl-2 glyceryl tetradecanoate (MW = I 143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl -2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate; (MW = 1538 g / mol),

a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, for example castor oil; of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech,

the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of general formula HO-R ¹ - (-COCO-R ² -COO-R ¹ -) _h -OH, in which: R ¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of Dilinoleic acid

R ² is a radical of hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleyl dimer diols sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name DD-D Lusplan A5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® , - oils of vegetable origin such as, for example, sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), - and their mixtures.

The hydrocarbon glossy oil may also be a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride oligomer and saturated diacid.

Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid.

According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" means a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.

Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers.

Among the saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid. .

More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid:

R2 R2 R2 I I

CHOH CHOH CHOH

I I I Rl Rl Rl

C = O C = O C = O

OOO CH ₀ CH CH

(AT)

O O

HO-C - X- C -OH

(B) in which

R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents an alkyl group saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched comprising for example 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

R 1 preferably represents a group - (CH ₂ ) D-, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12; R ₂ preferably represents a group - (CH ₂ ) _m CH 3, where m can vary from 0 to 11 and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9;

OH R1 C R2

According to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the group represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (major component of hydrogenated castor oil);

Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group such as, for example, a linear alkylene group - (CH ₂ ) _X -, where x can vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8. The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization.

Of the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL

CWS-10, marketed by Croda Japan K.K.

The oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CROD ABOND-CSA (MW = 3500) by the company CRODA is also mentioned.

The glossy oil may also be an oil chosen from silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name

DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxane, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (especially 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane sold under the name PH-1555 HRI by Dow Corning) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, it is a hydrocarbon oil.

Fluid oil

As is apparent from the foregoing, it is generally necessary to associate with a gloss oil having a high viscosity a more fluid oil so as to provide the corresponding composition with satisfactory deposition qualities. However, these fluid oils, with regard precisely to their fluidity, may under certain circumstances be subject to a phenomenon of migration, detrimental for its part to the qualities of makeup. In particular the contours of the makeup film lose in sharpness given the ability of some of these oils to diffuse.

The invention makes it possible to limit the use of these fluid oils in compositions requiring the presence of glossy oil (s).

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "fluid oil" designates an oil having a molecular mass of less than 400 g / mol, and in particular ranging from 100 to 390 g / mol. This oil can be volatile or not. This oil can be hydrocarbon or silicone. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^" mmHg (0.13 Pa).

A composition according to the invention may comprise less than 2% or even less than 1% of volatile oil or is completely free of volatile oil. By way of example of a fluid oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as isoalkanes in Cs-Ci ₆ of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under them. commercial names of Isopars or permetyls, C ₆ -C 6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, may also be used; volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10 ^{~ 6} m ² / s), and having in particular from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane; synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 30 carbon atoms with R 1 + R ₂ <30 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate -C ₂ -C _15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, ethyl palmitate, 2-hexyl, isostearyl isostearate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- at room temperature liquid alcohol with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol or linolenic, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol as marketed under the trade name Eutanol G® by Cognis;

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates; acetates; citrates; silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); and their mixtures.

More particularly, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 30% by weight, advantageously less than 25% by weight, and more particularly less than 20% by weight of fluid oil (s), and in particular linear (or branched) hydrocarbon (s) and / or branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohol having 8 to 26 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the compositions containing at least one glossy oil, in particular at least 10% by weight, may contain less than 30% by weight, in particular less than 20% by weight of fluid oil (s) relative to total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the compositions containing at least one glossy oil, can comprise it in a glossy oil (s) / fluid oil (s) weight ratio greater than 0.5; especially greater than 1.

Fatty phase A composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one fatty phase, for example at least 20% by weight, in particular at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 40% by weight, or even at less than 60% by weight relative to its total weight. This phase may contain at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty compounds. The fatty phase generally comprises at least one oil and / or at least one wax. A composition according to the invention may also contain one or more solid fatty substances, especially at a content of at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight relative to its total weight.

These solid fatty substances may be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds and mixtures thereof.

WAX

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ^° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ^° C. ⁰ C can go up to 200 ⁰ C and in particular up to 120 ⁰ C.

According to one embodiment of the invention, depilatory waxes are excluded, as waxes suitable for the implementation of the invention.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ^° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ^° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ^° C. to 100 ^° C., at the heating rate of

10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ⁰ C to -20 ⁰ C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ⁰ C to

100 ⁰ C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, coconut wax and the like. Carnauba, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes (such as the one sold under the reference Microwax HW by Paramelt), paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L and

Performalene 400 by the company New Phase Technologies, the waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.

There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company.

Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ^®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and tetrastearate di- (trimethylol l, l, l propane) sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ^® by the company HETERENE.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.

One can also use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 ^{® ®} by Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

As the wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used. Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P ^® ", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® " and "Kester Wax K 80 P ^® ", and "Kester Wax K 82 H ^® " by the company Koster Keunen. As microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro synthetic wax such as that sold under the name MicroEase 114S ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 ^® and 310 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that sold under the name micro Care 325 ^® by the company mICRO POWDERS, the micro waxes of polyethylene such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ^®, 220 ^® , 220L ^® and 250S ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetraf micro waxes luoroethylene such as those sold under the names Microslip 519 ^® and 519 L ^® by the company Micro Powders. The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from

0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 45% by weight, for example 2 to 35% by weight, 4 to 30% by weight, or according to some embodiments from 4 to 15% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ^° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ^° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ^° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ^° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ^° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ^° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ⁰ C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ^° C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it exhibits at 23 ^° C., consisting of a liquid fraction and a liquid fraction. solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ^° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ^° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ^° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ^° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ^° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ^° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ^° C. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: i) lanolin and its derivatives, ii) polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, iii) polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, iv) vinyl polymers, in particular:

homopolymers and copolymers of olefins,

homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,

- vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene (INCI name VP / eicosene copolymer), for example sold by the company ISP under the trade name Ganex V220F ^®,

homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50 diols; v) esters, vi) and their mixtures.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the form of polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl, especially as marketed under the brand Softisan 649 ^® by the company Sasol,

arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

the phytosterol esters,

triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, pentaerythritol esters,

non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid,

the esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic acid and of a hydroxylated aliphatic ester. These esters may result from the esterification of: aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid, and b) a hydroxylated aliphatic ester, especially a hydroxy carboxylic acid ester,

the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) functional (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl especially sold under the trade name Plandool-G ^® by the company Nippon Fine Chemical,

- and their mixtures.

Among the preferred pasty compounds, the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, the bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, the bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, the hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example the RISOCAST-DA, will preferably be chosen. -L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL or their mixture.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total pasty fat content greater than 5% by weight, especially 10% by weight, or even 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the content of pasty fatty substance may range from 5 to 80% by weight, in particular from 20 to 80% by weight, or even in certain embodiments from 35 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The compositions may also comprise at least one additional polymer.

Additional polymer

The compositions according to the invention may contain an additional polymer, which may or may not be film-forming.

In the present invention, the term "polymeric film", a polymer capable of forming alone or in the presence of an auxiliary filtering agent, a macroscopically continuous deposition on keratin materials. The composition may comprise an aqueous phase and the additional polymer may be present in this aqueous phase. In this case it will preferably be a dispersion polymer or an amphiphilic or associative polymer. By "dispersed polymer" is meant unsubstituted polymers in water present in the form of particles of variable size. The polymer may be crosslinked or not. The average particle size is typically between 25 and 500 nm, preferably between 50 and 200 nm. The following aqueous dispersion polymers can be used: Ultrasol 2075 from Ganz Chemical, Daitosol 5000AD from Daito Kasei, Avalon UR 450 from Noveon, DYNAMX from National Starch, Syntran 5760 from Interpolymer, Acusol OP 301 from Rohm & Haas, Neocryl A 1090 from Avecia.

The acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90 ^®, Neocryl A-1070 ^®, Neocryl A-1090 ^®, Neocryl BT-62 ^®, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl ^® A-523 ^® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432 ^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD ^® or Daitosol 5000 SJ ^® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 ^® by the company Interpolymer, Soltex OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name Joncryl ^® by the company Johnson Polymer, or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981 ^® and Neorez R-974 ^® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405 ^®, Avalure UR-410 ^®, Avalure UR-425 ^®, Avalure UR-450 ^{®, ®} Sancure 875, Sancure 861 ^® , Sancure 878 ^® and Sancure 2060 ^® by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 ^® by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 ^® by the company HYDROMER; sulphopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ ^® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions, for instance Mexomer MAP ^® from the company Chimex, and mixtures thereof, are additional examples of aqueous dispersion of film-forming water-dispersible polymer particles.

By "amphiphilic or associative polymers" is meant polymers having one to several hydrophilic moieties which render them partially soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic moieties through which the polymers associate or interact. The following associative polymers may be used: Nuvis FX1100 from Elementis, Aculyn 22, Aculyn 44, Aculyn 46 from Rohm & Haas, Viscophobe DB 1000 from Amerchol. The diblock copolymers consisting of a hydrophilic block (polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol) and a hydrophobic block (polystyrene, polysiloxane, can also be used. The composition may comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase. The polymer may then be in dispersion or in solution.

Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of lipo-dispersible film-forming polymer in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles in one or more silicone and / or hydrocarbon oils and which can be stabilized at their surface by at least one stabilizing agent, in particular a block polymer, grafted or statistical, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as

Mexomère PAP ^® from the company Chimex, the dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081.

Among the polymeric polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

The term radical-forming polymeric polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type polymeric polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic, especially acrylic polymers.

Vinyl-based polymer polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As monomer bearing an acid group, it is possible to use α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl (meth) acrylates. preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ ,

(meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C ₆ -C ₁₀ aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of hydroxy C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl. The film-forming polymer may be chosen from block and random polymers and / or copolymers comprising in particular polyurethanes, polyacrylics, silicones, fluorinated polymers, butyl gums, copolymers of ethylene, natural gums and polyvinyl alcohols and their mixtures.

Vinyl-based polymer polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

Styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Among the thermoplastic polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their polyurethanes. mixtures. The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by poly-condensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

According to an exemplary composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil.

As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinyl ether (the alkyl group of which

2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl.

Examples of liposoluble polymeric polymers include vinyl ester copolymers and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester, especially vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate, an olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, or an allylic or methallyl ester.

Mention may also be made, as liposoluble polymeric polymers, of fat-soluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of vinyl polylaurate. , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2 232 303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

Liposoluble polymeric polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes, and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or otherwise unsaturated, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

Other polymers

Silicone resins

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise a silicone resin. More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. The term "silicone resins" is also referred to as "silicone resins" or "siloxane resins". Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula

R1R2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter "D" signifies a Difunctional unit R1R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms

The letter "T" represents a trifunctional unit of formula RlSiθ3 / 2.

Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Enginnering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484. In the units M, D and T defined above, R 1, namely R 1, R 2 and R 3, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a group hydroxyl.

Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and the number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.

As silicone resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, silicone resins of the MQ, T type or MQT type can be used, for example.

MQ resins:

By way of example of silicone resins of MQ type, there may be mentioned alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(R 1) 3 SiO 1/2] _x (SiO 4/2) _y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,

Examples of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type that may be mentioned are those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin -Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning.

As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US5817302.

T resins: By way of example of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) _x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may further comprise Si-OH end groups.

Preferably, the polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, for example those marketed:

by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH ₃ SiO 3/2 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3) ₂ SiO ₂ / ₂ (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol, or - by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3Siθ3 / ₂ and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or else under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.

MOT resins:

As a resin comprising MQT units, those known from US 5,110,890 are particularly known.

A preferred form of MQT resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (ii) (R2 ₂ Si0 _2/2 ) _b and

(iv) (SiO _{4/2) of} with

R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; or a phenyl group, a, b, c and d being mole fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0 , 05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1, with the proviso that more than 40 mol% of the R 3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:

(i) (Rl ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a

(iii) (R 3 SiO _{3/2) c} and with R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to

8 carbon atoms, R1 being preferably a methyl group and R3 being preferably a propyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between

0.2 and 0.55, a + b + c + d = 1, with the proviso that more than 40 mol% of the R 3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

The siloxane resins that can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R13SiOi / 2) _a and

R1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of

B) a T propyl resin comprising at least 80 mole% of units (R 3 SiO _3/2) c, R 3 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group , c being greater than zero, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R 3 groups are propyl groups, in which the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.

Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been found to allow comfortable deposits.

Preferably, when it is present, the siloxane resin is present in the composition in a total resin solids content ranging from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from From 4% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 25% by weight.

It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention. Semi-crystalline polymer

The composition according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ^° C. Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s) ) represents

0.1 to 45% of the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.5 to 40%, for example from 1 to 35% by weight, and still more preferably from 1 to 20%, or even from 3 to 30%, 5 to 30%, or even 15 to 30%. Preferably, it represents from 2% to 10% by weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; the semicrystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The term "organic compound" or "organic structure" means compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.

The melting temperature of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ^° C.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ^° C. and less than 100 ^° C. More preferably, the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ^° C. and less than 70 ^° C. The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ^° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), the melting point of which is greater than or equal to 30 ^° C. The values of melting point correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ⁰ C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.

According to the invention the semicrystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.

Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing hydrophobic side chain (s) crystallizable (s) )

polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis.

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP-A-0 951 897,

polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,

homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US-A-5, 156, 911,

homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document

WO-A-01/19333,

- and their mixtures.

In the latter two cases, the one or more side chains or crystallizable blocks are hydrophobic.

A) Semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains In particular, those defined in documents US-A-5, 156, 911 and WO-A-01/19333 may be mentioned.

These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing hydrophobic crystallizable side chain.

These homo- or co-polymers are of any kind as long as they have the conditions indicated below with in particular the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase, by heating above their melting temperature. They can result from: - the radical polymerization of one or more monomers with double (s) reactive bond (s) or ethylenic vis-à-vis a polymerization, namely a vinyl group, (meth) ) acrylic or allylic.

polycondensation of one or more monomers carrying co-reactive groups (carboxylic or sulphonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers or polyureas. a) In general, the crystallizable units (chains or sequences) of the semicrystalline polymers according to the invention come from monomer (s) with a sequence (s) or crystallizable chain (s), used for the manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer (s) which may be represented by the formula X: M

C with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, C representing a crystallizable group, and S representing a spacer.

Crystallizable "-SC" chains may be aliphatic or aromatic, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "C" represents in particular a group (CH ₂ ) D linear or branched or cyclic, with n integer ranging from 12 to 40. Preferably "C" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

When the crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise hydrocarbon alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. They are in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably they are C14-C24 alkyl chains, preferably C16-C22 chains. In the case of alkyl chains fluorinated or perfluorinated, they contain at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated. As examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain (s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the alkyl group C14-C24, the perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates with alkyl perfluoro C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with the alkyl group C ₁₄ to C24 with or without a fluorine atom, esters vinyl chain alkyl or perfluoro (alkyl) with C ₁₄ to C 24 alkyl (with at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers with alkyl chains or perfluoro (alkyl) with the alkyl group in C ₁₄ to C24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoroalkyl chain, C ₁₄ to C 24 alpha-olefins such as octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, their mixtures.

When the polymers result from a condensation process, the crystallizable hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are borne by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

When the polymers which are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they contain, in addition, from 0 to 50% of groups Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of both:

When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing polyoxyalkylene groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene), a hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, a alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an N, N-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide, for example NN-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least one carboxylic acid group; like acids (Meth) acrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

When Y is a non-polar monomer it can be an ester of the type

linear or branched alkyl (meth) acrylate, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with an alkyl group

C 1 -C 10, such as α-methylstyrene, a vinyl-unsaturated polyorganosiloxane macromonomer.

By "alkyl" is meant in the sense of the invention a saturated group including Cs to C24, except express mention. Preferably, the semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular at C14-C24, copolymers these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the crystallizable side chain semi-crystalline polymer (s) have a weight average molecular weight Mw ranging from 5,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 800,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, of preferably 100 000 to 200 000. as a specific example of usable semi-crystalline polymer in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made Intelimer ^® products from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ^® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ^° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains and have the above formula X. For example, one chooses the product Intelimer ^® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose melting temperature is equal to 49 ^° C.

The semicrystalline polymers may especially be those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911 and more particularly of the copolymerization:

acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio,

acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a 1/19 ratio, acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethyl acrylate in a ratio of 2.5: 76.5: 20,

acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methylacrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio,

acrylic acid, polyoctadecylmethacrylate in a 2.5 / 97.5 ratio.

It is also possible to use the National Starch "O" Structure polymer such as that described in document US-A-5 736 125 with a melting point of 44 ^° C.

The semicrystalline polymers may in particular be semi-crystalline crystalline pendant chain polymers containing fluorinated groups as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333.

Semicrystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP as described in US-A-5,519,063 or EP-A-0 550 745 can also be used.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in documents US-A-5, 519,063 and EP-A-055 0745 and more especially those described in Examples 3 and 4, hereinafter, of polymer preparation.

B) Polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block

They are also polymers which are soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase by heating above their melting point M.sub.p. These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at least two sequences of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.

The polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone may be chosen from block copolymers of olefin or cycloolefin with a crystallizable chain, such as those resulting from the sequential polymerization of:

cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e., bicyclo (2,2,1) heptene-2), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene,

5,5,6-trimethyl norbornene, 5-ethylidene norbornene, 5-phenyl-norbonene,

5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinyl norbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene or mixtures thereof, with

ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-eicosene or their mixtures, and in particular copoly (ethylene / norbornene) blocks and terpolymers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene norbornene), blocks. It is also possible to use those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 C ₂ -C ₁₆ α-olefins and better still C ₂ -C ₁₂ such as those mentioned above, and in particular the block copolymers of ethylene and of 1 octene.

The polymer carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone may be chosen from copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the rest of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may, in addition, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which have at both room temperature, a crystallizable block and a lipophilic amorphous sequence sequentially distributed. Mention may be made, for example, of polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks:

- Sequence crystallizable by nature of the polyester type such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), or polyolefin type such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes.

- Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefins) such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene).

As examples of such crystallizable block and amorphous block copolymers, mention may be made of: α) poly (ε-caprolactone) -b-poly (butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used in hydrogenation, such as those described in article D6 "Melting behavior of poly (-caprolactone) -block-polybutadiene copolymers" of S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999). β) block or multiblocked hydrogenated poly (butylene terephthalate) -b-poly (isoprene) block copolymers, cited in article D7 "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995). γ) poly (ethylene) -b-copoly (ethylene / propylene) block copolymers cited in articles D8 "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene-

(ethylene-alt-propylene) "from P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and D9 "Polymer Aggregates with Crystalline cores: the Poly (ethylene) -poly (ethylene-propylene) System" P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997). δ) the poly (ethylene) -b-poly (ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article D10 "Crystallization in block copolymers" of LW. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, Vol 148, 113-137 (1999).

C) Polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type

The polyester polycondensates may be chosen from aliphatic polyesters. Their molecular mass is preferably greater than or equal to 200 and less than or equal to 10,000, and more preferably greater than or equal to 300 and less than or equal to 5000, preferably greater than or equal to 500 and greater than or equal to

2,000 g / mol.

The polyester polycondensates are in particular chosen from polycaprolactones. In particular, the polycaprolactones may be chosen from homopolymers of ε-caprolactones. The homopolymerization can be initiated with a diol, in particular a diol having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as diethylene glycol,

1,4-butanediol, neopentyl glycol.

For example, polycaprolactones, especially those marketed under the name CAPA 240 (mp 68 ^° C. and molecular weight 4000), 223 (mp 48 ° C. and molecular weight 2000), may be used.

(melting point of 48 ^° C. and molecular weight of 2000), 217 (melting point of 44 ^° C. and molecular weight of 1250), 2125 (melting point of 45 ° C. and molecular weight of 1250),

212 (melting point of 45 ^° C. and molecular weight of 1000), 210 (melting point of 38 ^° C. and molecular weight of 1000), 205 (melting point of 39 ° C. and molecular weight of 830) by the company SOLVAY, PCL-300, PCL-700 by UNION CARBIDE.

In particular, CAPA 2125 can be used, the melting point of which is between 35 and 45 ^° C. and the molecular weight of which is equal to 1250.

The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked when the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the fatty phase by heating above their melting point. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It can also be a physical crosslinking which can then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer, for example the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantities and carried by the backbone of the polymer; or at a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks carried by the polymer.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the invention are uncrosslinked.

D) Copolymers of Ethylene and Propylene Prepared by Metallocene Catalysis The semi-crystalline polymer of the composition of the invention may also be a polymer obtained by metallocene catalysis, such as those described in US Patent 2007/0031361 whose content is incorporated by reference.

These polymers are copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, that is to say by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.

The weight average mass (Mw) of these copolymers obtained by metallocene catalysis described in this document is less than or equal to 25,000 g / mol, it ranges, for example, from 2,000 to 22,000 g / mol and better still from 4,000 to 20,000 g / mol. 000 g / mol.

The number average mass (Mn) of these copolymers obtained by metallocene catalysis described herein is preferably less than or equal to 15,000 g / mol, it ranges, for example, from 1,000 to 12,000 g / mol, and better still from 2 to 000 to 10,000 g / mol.

The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight average mass Mw to the number average mass Mn.

Preferably, the polydispersity index of the copolymers is between 1.5 and 10, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 3 and better still, between 2 and 2.5.

The copolymers can be obtained in a known manner from ethylene and / or propylene monomers, for example by metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

The copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis can be unmodified or "polar" modified (polar modified, that is to say modified so that they have polar groupings). The polar-modified copolymers can be prepared in a known manner from homopolymers and unmodified copolymers such as those described above by oxidation with oxygen-containing gases, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or derivatives of these acids. These two paths for polely modifying polyolefins obtained by metallocene catalysis are described respectively in EP 890 583 and US 5 998 547 for example, the contents of these two documents being incorporated by reference.

According to the present invention, the copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene prepared by polarized and especially preferred metallocene catalysis are the modified polymers so that they exhibit hydrophilic properties. By way of example, there may be mentioned homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), etc. . Homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.

By way of example, mention may be made of: maleic anhydride modified polypropylene polymers (PPMA) marketed by Clariant or polypropylene-ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers, such as those marketed by Clariant under the name LicoCare name as LicoCare PP207 LP3349, LicoCare CM401 LP3345, LicoCare CA301 LP 3346, and LicoCare CA302 LP 3347.

In the context of a composition for the lips, it is preferred a polished polymer having a low degree of crystallinity, preferably less than 40%.

Other structuring agents

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise other structuring agents than the wax as defined above. Agent is understood structuring a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the composition incorporating it. The structuring agent makes it possible in particular to obtain a composition that can present a texture ranging from fluid to solid textures.

In this respect, mention may be made especially of: organophilic clays, such as hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example , that sold under the name Bentone 38V ^® by Elementis.

pyrogenic silicas, such as pyrogenic silicas optionally treated hydrophobic on the surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: 1. trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8 ^th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812 ^® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 ^® by the company Cabot;

2. Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

- the alkyl guar gums (with C1-C6), such as those described in EP-A-708 114, or for example cellulose derivatives such as ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ^® by the company DOW CHEMICAL; Hydrocarbon block copolymers, also known as block copolymers, preferably a block copolymer which is soluble or dispersible in a liquid fatty phase.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534.

As the diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are sold under the name Kraton ^® by the company G1701E

Kraton Polymers.

As the triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers and styrene-isoprene-copolymers. styrene, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold under the names Kraton Gl 650 ^®, Kraton ^® G 1652, Kraton ^® DI lOl, Kraton ^® Dl 102, Kraton Dl 160 ^® by the company Kraton Polymers. - and their mixtures.

Such other structuring agents may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.5% and 20% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.

Coloring matters

The compositions according to the invention may advantageously contain a coloring agent which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a certain ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.05% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS.

The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. He can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with oxy-bismuth chloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA,

FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) sold by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, pearls based on PRESTIGE mica marketed by ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica marketed by SUN Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Marte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the nacres of red hue with gold glare sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black pearls with gold glints sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls especially sold by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white pearls with silvery reflection marketed especially by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the orange nacres pinkish golden green marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.

The liposo lubricating dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects. The particles with metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: the particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. "Metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

Illustrative of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by Siberline and METALURE® ^® by the company Eckart. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy blends such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 from the company ECKART the silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powder (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural GoId from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF ₂ / Al / MgF ₂ / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZAl ₂ SiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , and Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS ₂ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxide ZSiO ₂ ZMoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxide ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ; TiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ and TiO ₂ ZAl ₂ O ₃ ZTiO ₂ ; SnOZTiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ ZSnO; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe ₂ OsZSiO ₂ ZAl / SiO ₂ ZFe ₂ Os structure, gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO ₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO ₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO ₂ layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO ₂ layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by CHENIX well as those sold under the name Helicone® ^® HC by Wacker.

Charge

A composition according to the invention may comprise a filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 30%, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight, for example ranging from 0.1% to 15%, or from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example slip, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ^® ) (Orgasol ^® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon ^® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel ^® (Nobel Industry), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® of the Dow Corning Corporation) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls ^® , for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollow (Silica Beads ^® from Maprecos), glass microcapsules or ceramic, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ^® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 ^® from the company TOSHIKI.

Additional usual cosmetic ingredients

The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. Application devices

Examples of devices that make it possible, among other things, to implement a cosmetic treatment process comprising the steps of: a) heating an application surface of a mass of solid product, with the aid of an artificial source of heat located outside the product mass, in particular an application surface of a product stick, to bring it to a temperature greater than that of a portion of the product mass remote from the product mass; application surface and which remains solid during application, and b) apply the application surface thus heated to an area to be treated, including the skin or lips.

The description of these devices is made with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which: Figure 1 shows, schematically, in elevation, an example of a packaging device and application made according to the invention, Figure 2 represents in isolation, with partial and schematic longitudinal section, the cover of the device of FIG. 1, FIG. 3 schematically and partially illustrates the heating of the end of the stick by contact with a hot surface, FIG. schematically and partially an embodiment of the heating member, Figures 5 to 7 illustrate details of embodiments of heating member variants, Figure 8 shows, schematically, an alternative embodiment of the packaging device and 'application,

FIG. 9 is a diagrammatic and partial section of the device of FIG. 8, after placement in the corresponding housing housing, FIG. 10 represents a rod and associated support means, FIG. 11 represents in elevation a variant of FIG. implementation of the conditioning and application device,

FIG. 12 is a longitudinal section, partial and schematic, of the device of FIG. 11, - Figure 13 is a longitudinal section, partial and schematic, of an alternative embodiment of the device, Figure 14 shows a variant of the product packaging, and Figure 15 previously described, illustrates the measurement of the coefficient of dynamic friction.

The device 1 of packaging and application shown in Figure 1 comprises a base portion 2 which supports a mass of product according to the invention being in the form of a rod S product, and a cover 3 which can be fix on the base part 2 to close the device 1 in the absence of use. The base portion 2 can be of any known type to move the rod S as and when consumption.

The base portion 2 comprises for example two parts 5 and 6 rotatable relative to each other, and a mechanism for transforming the relative rotation of the two parts 5 and 6 in an axial displacement along the longitudinal axis X of the stick S. The stick S is for example carried, within this mechanism, by a cupule

58 as shown in Figure 10, having lugs 59 engaged in two parts respectively belonging to the parts 5 and 6, one of which comprises longitudinal rectilinear slots and the other of the helical slots, so that a rotation of these two parts is accompanied by an axial displacement of the cup and the rod S. Examples of suitable mechanisms are described in US 6,340,258, US 6,086,276, US 6,371,673, US 5,171,096 and US 7,293,926, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

The cover 3 comprises a heating device 10 which allows the end 11 of the stick S to be warmed up before it is applied to the keratin materials, for example the skin or the lips.

The heating device 10 can accommodate an electrical source that is not visible, for example containing one or more batteries or accumulators, and a heating element comprising, for example, an electrical resistance powered by the electrical source.

Examples of suitable heaters are disclosed in US 2007 / 0,286,665 A1, for example.

The heating member is arranged to raise the temperature of a heating surface 13 which, in the example of FIGS. 1 and 2, can come into contact with the rod S, as shown in Figure 3, to raise the temperature of the distal end 11 thereof.

The heating device 10 may comprise a switch 14 allowing the user to start or stop the heating device 10, as well as an operating indicator, for example a light which lights up when the surface heating 13 is being heated.

The heating device 10 may optionally comprise any means for regulating the temperature of the heating surface 13 so that it does not exceed a predefined value. When the heating surface is inaccessible to the user, a higher heating temperature but compatible with the product can be accepted. On the other hand, when the heating surface 13 can be contacted by the user, a temperature not exceeding 65 ^° C. is preferred.

The heating device 10 may also, if appropriate, include a timer which allows the end 11 of the rod S to be warmed up only for a predefined period, in order to avoid premature wear of the source of electrical energy and / or avoid wearing the entire stick at an excessive temperature.

The heating device 10 may advantageously comprise any suitable sensor for triggering the operation of the heating only in case of effective contact of the heating surface with the end 11 of the stick S.

For example, the heater 10 may comprise a contact pressure sensor between the heating surface 13 and the rod S, and allow heating of the heating surface 13 only in the event of proven contact with the stick S .

The heating surface 13 may be defined for example by a contact piece 20, for example axially movable along the axis X relative to the body 22 of the heating device 10 against the return action of an elastic return member 23, such as for example a spring housed inside the contact piece 20, as illustrated in FIG. 4.

In this FIG. 4, there is shown a heating device comprising an electrical resistance 25 plated in the bottom of the contact piece 20, so as to be as close as possible to the heating surface 13. The contact piece 20 may for example comprise a good heat-conducting metal, with a small wall thickness, so as to have a low thermal inertia. In some embodiments, the contact piece 20 may for example comprise aluminum. The heating surface 13 can be given any shape adapted to the geometry of the end 11 of the rod, for example a bevelled shape substantially complementary to the shape of the end 11 of the rod S, as illustrated in FIGS.

1 and 2, or another shape, for example a concave shape towards the rod S, in particular a spherical cap shape as illustrated in FIG. 5, a conical or frustoconical shape as illustrated in FIG. 6 or a substantially flat and perpendicular shape to the X axis, as shown in Figure 7.

When the shape of the heating surface 13 is non-symmetrical of revolution about the axis X, the device 1 may comprise means of indexing in rotation of the base part 2 and the cover 3, so as to not allow the fixing the cover 3 on the base portion 2 only in a predefined angular orientation between the two, in which the heating surface 13 can come into application in a predefined manner, compatible with its geometry, against the rod S.

The stick S, which is for example a lipstick stick, may have a section of between 0.1 and 5 cm ² , or even between 0.15 and 1 cm ² , and the device 1 can be used by lighting first. the heating device 10 and then waiting for the time required for the end 11 of the rod which defines the application surface is brought to the desired temperature.

The heating may for example be indicated by the indicator light 15, which may for example go from a continuous ignition state signaling the start of the device to a flashing ignition or change color when the temperature is reached. Other methods for indicating the ignition state may be employed without departing from the scope of the invention.

Once the end of the stick is heated, the base portion 2 can be separated from the cover 3 and the user can apply the product of the stick on the lips or other keratin materials. The softening of the product at the end 11 of the stick ensures a comfortable application, a good transfer to the lips with a thick deposit and possibly shine upon application. For example, the application is done without using an applicator. In other words, only the composition, and more precisely the softened surface is put in direct contact with the region to be treated.

The body of the rod S is at room temperature or at a slightly higher temperature, but insufficient to compromise the mechanical strength necessary to withstand the mechanical forces generated by the application. The temperature difference between the application surface and the body of the rod, in particular at the end opposite the application surface, and for example at least 20 ^° C., or even at least 30 ^° C. when the stick has its initial length, the first use. The device 1 can be used in a similar way to make up the skin, the stick can then be of larger section, if necessary.

The heating device may not be incorporated in a cover 3 of the conditioning device, but may be present in a housing 40 separate from the packaging device of the stick S, as illustrated in FIGS. 8 and 9. The housing 40 can house an electrical source and / or comprise a connection means to an electrical source, for example the mains via a low-voltage transformer.

The housing 40 may also include start-up means 41, such as for example an on / off switch, and one or more lights 42 and 55 to signal the power up and / or the end of the warm-up. .

In the example of FIGS. 8 and 9, the housing 40 has an opening 46 in which the base portion 2 can be introduced at least partially, as illustrated in FIG. 9, in order to bring the end 11 of the stick close to a heating means 50 present in the housing 40. The opening 46 is for example of section adapted to one of the parts of the base part, so that the engagement of the base part in the housing brings the end 11 of the rod to a predefined position, at least in two directions of space, relative to the heating means.

The housing 40 may include any suitable sensor 51 for detecting the establishment of the base portion 2 of the housing 40 and possibly the positioning of the rod relative to the heating means. Heating of the end of the stick S can take place by conduction, in contact with a hot surface, as described above. In this case, the heating means comprises a heating surface which can be brought to the appropriate temperature by any heating means, for example an electrical resistance. Heating of the end of the stick can still be carried out without contact, for example by IR radiation and / or convection, and / or by vibration and / or radio-electric radiation, or any other source providing heat.

As mentioned above, the housing 40 may comprise any suitable sensor, in particular an optical sensor, capable of evaluating the distance between the end 11 of the stick and the heating means 50, in order to allow it to start up only when when a predefined distance is respected and / or in order to adjust the heating power as a function of the distance between the heating means and the end of the stick S.

In some embodiments, the heating means 50 may be a heating system by emitting infrared radiation towards the end 11 of the stick, for example by means of a halogen or incandescent lamp, or by blowing hot air towards the end 11.

In some embodiments, the end 11 of the rod S may be further heated by exposure to radioelectric radiation, for example microwaves, focused at the end 11 of the rod S. In still other variants, the end 11 of the S stick can be warmed by ultrasonic vibrations.

In the variant embodiment of FIGS. 11 and 12, the heating device 60 comprises a heating means 62 which is integral with the base part 2 and which can comprise, as illustrated, a ring-shaped heating element 62, which can The heating member 62 is for example of section greater than or equal to that of the stick S.

The heating device 60 may comprise, for example, a control member 64 on which the user can press to trigger the operation of the heating member 62. The heating member 62 may comprise, for example, a heating resistor that allows the heating element to be heated. by conduction, convection and / or radiation (for example infrared, microwaves ...) the end 11 of the stick S. If necessary, the heating member 62 may also participate in the application of the product associated with the rod S and may for this purpose have an upper face 70 of suitable shape, for example beveled.

To use the device in the example considered, the user can bring the end 11 of the stick to the heating member 62 and trigger the heating by pressing the control member 64.

The heating device may comprise a light indicator 72 signaling to the user the operation of the heating member 62.

The user can then interrupt the heating when he visually observes that the end 11 of the rod has changed in appearance due to the temperature rise, for example has become glossy.

The user can then possibly, at this moment, move the end 11 a little more upwards so as to facilitate the application of the product, without contact with the heating member 62. In a variant, the user can proceed to the application of the product with contact not only of the stick S but also of the heating member 62 on the lips or the skin.

If necessary, the surface of the heating member 62 that can contact the skin may be flocked or have a textured surface appearance facilitating application.

In the variant illustrated in Figure 13, the stick S passes through a heating member 62 defining an opening 76 of narrowed section relative to the body section of the stick.

The softening of the rod S in contact with the heating member 62 may thus be accompanied, in this example, by a deformation of the rod through the heating member 62. This may increase the accuracy of application of the product. and to prevent the rod S can be advanced relative to the heater 62 until sufficient softening is achieved.

The outer surface of the heating member 62 may be tapered, as shown in FIG. 13, in order to reduce the contact area between the treated region and the heating member 62. FIG. 14 represents a variant embodiment in which the mass of product S associated with the stick S is supported by a rod 200, and is suitable for example for a single use. The application surface 202 is heated by being brought into contact with or near a hot surface, for example by introducing it into a housing provided with a heating means such as the housing previously described with reference to FIGS. 8 and 9.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, the percentages by weight are indicated relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 (Lipstick according to the invention)

^ Schercemol DISM marketed by Lubrizol

^ Softisan 649 marketed by Sasol

^ PH-1555 HRI marketed by Dow Corning

⁽⁴⁾ CRODABOND-CSA by the company CRODA

Dow Corning 556 sold by Dow Corning

Microwax HW marketed by the company Paramelt

⁽⁷⁾ Stay Wax K82H marketed by KOSTER KEUNEN

⁽⁸⁾ RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO® Salacos HCISV-L marketed by Nisshin Oillio

^ Ganex V220F ^® marketed by the company ISP

In a skillet, the ingredients of phase A are added. The whole is stirred with a Rayneri while heating slightly at 50 ^° C. The pigments of phase B are ground in a part of phase A. In a double-walled skillet, the ground material, the other part of phase A and the waxes of phase C and the pasty fatty substances of phase D are added. The mixture is heated to 98-100 ^° C. C stirring with Rayneri until melting waxes. Finally, the charge (phase E) is added to the mixture, which is poured into a mold to make lipsticks with a diameter of 12.7 mm. The molds are then placed at -20 ^° C. for half an hour, then the rods are demolded, which are mounted in lipstick mechanisms such as that illustrated in FIG. 8, for example.

The lipstick has a dynamic coefficient of friction of 1.05 at 25 ^° C. and a hardness at 20 ^° C. of 146 Nm ^-1 .

Example 2 (Lipstick according to the invention)

(1) Salacos HCISV-L marketed by Nisshin Oillio ⁽²⁾ Indolol H 100 marketed by INEOS® Schercemol DISM marketed by Lubrizol® Lusplan DD-D A7 marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical® Softisan 649 marketed by Sasol® Plandool-G marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical

Performalene 500-L marketed by New Phase Technologies® Intelimer IPA 13-1 marketed by Air Products and Chemicals Tipaque PF-671 marketed by Ishihara Sangyo ( ¹⁰⁾ Cloisonne Sparkle GoId 222 J marketed by BASF

The pigments of phase D are ground in phase A.

In a double-walled skillet is added the ground, phase B and the ingredients of phase C. The whole is heated to 98-100 ⁰ C stirring with Rayneri until complete melting of the ingredients. Finally, mother-of-pearl (phase E) is added to the mixture, which is poured into a mold to make lipsticks with a diameter of 11.06 mm. The mold is then placed at -20 ^° C. for half an hour, then the sticks are demolded.

The hardness of the stick at 20 ^° C. is 156 Nm ^-1 .

At room temperature, the composition thus obtained deposits very little and is very catchy.

In order to illustrate the invention, the bevel of the composition is brought into contact with a hot source at 60 ^° C. for 10 seconds and then applied to the lips:

The application is more pleasant compared to the application performed at room temperature as described above, the deposit on the lips is shiny with good gloss and without migration.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples that have just been illustrated. In the case where the rod is moved relative to a heating member, the displacement of the rod can be effected by means of a mechanism comprising at least two parts movable in rotation or a mechanism moving the rod in increments. Examples of such incremental mechanisms are found on hot melt glue guns for example, an example of which is given in US 2003 / 0,150,875 or US 2006 / 0,191,957.

In an alternative embodiment, the heating resistor is integrated in the base part or in the closing cap thereof and is powered by an electrical source which is located on a housing with which the base part or the cover must be engaged to be electrically connected. This can prevent the incorporation in the base part or the cover of one or more batteries or accumulators.

Alternatively, the base portion or the cover comprises at least one electric accumulator and it is recharged by placing the base part or the hood on a charging station.

The heating of the end of the rod can still be obtained by a mechanical action of the user, for example by the rotational drive of a wheel mounted rotatably on the hood and which is in engagement with a wiper, so that that the rotation of the wheel causes the elevation of the temperature of the wiper, this temperature rise being transmitted via a contact piece at the end of the stick.

The invention is not limited to a lipstick or a makeup or skin care product or lips.

The product may be present on a pallet at the time of its warming.

The expression "comprising one" must be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one" unless the contrary is specified.

Claims

1. A method for making and / or non-therapeutic care of non-fibrous human keratin materials, especially the skin, its mucous membranes or nails, comprising the steps of: bringing into contact with or in the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface a piece of solid cosmetic composition having a coefficient of dynamic friction sensitive to temperature, said coefficient of dynamic friction at 25 ⁰ C being greater than or equal to 0.5; better 0.6; so as to heat said piece locally so as essentially to soften only said outer surface and to lower the coefficient of dynamic friction, apply the outer surface of the composition thus heated to the region to be treated, said composition being different from a composition in the form of a lipstick stick with a diameter of 12.7 mm, defined as follows, the quantities being expressed as percentage by weight:

BHT 0.06

PEG-45 / DODECYL GLYCOL COPOLYMER 6

OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE 18

POLYBUTENE 15

TRIISOSTEARIN 7

OCTYLDODECYL / PPG-3 MYRISTYL ETHER DIMER DILINOLEATE 1

BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 15

ISOSTEARYL ISOSTERATE 10

DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITY 1

YELLOW 6 LAKE 7

RED 7 4

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1

POLYETHYLENE 5

MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX 7

MICA 2.94

2. A method for making and / or non-therapeutic care of human non-fibrous keratin materials, in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the nails, comprising at least the steps consisting of:

bringing into contact with or in the vicinity of a heating device an outer surface of a piece of solid cosmetic composition so as to heat said piece in a localized manner so as essentially to soften only said outer surface, in particular with a view to lowering it; the dynamic coefficient of friction, and

then applying the composition thus heated to the region to be treated, said composition comprising a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight of glossy oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said glossy oil being a hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400 g / mol.

3. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the glossy oil is chosen from oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from 500 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular from 500 to 8000 g. mol, and more particularly from 550 to 7500 g / mol.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a hydrocarbon-based glossy oil chosen from lipophilic polymers such as polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; esters such as linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohol or C24-C28 fatty acids, a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer general formula HO-RλC-OCO-PΛCOO-RλVOH, in which:

R ¹ represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid R ² represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9; oils of vegetable origin, such as, for example, sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and mixtures thereof, or else an oligomer of triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and of saturated diacid.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises a gloss oil content (s) ranging from 10 to 80%, for example from 15 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight. at 60% and even more preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, or even 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition contains at least one glossy oil, in particular at least 10% by weight in combination with at least one fluid oil in a proportion of less than 30% by weight. weight, in particular less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the fluid oil is chosen from oils with a molar mass of less than 400 g / mol, in particular ranging from

100 to 390 g / mol.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solid cosmetic composition has a hardness greater than or equal to 80 Nm- ¹ at 20 ^° C., preferably greater than or equal to 100 Nm ^-1 , better still greater than or equal to 120 ^° C. Nm ^"1 .

9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the coefficient of dynamic friction is, at the temperature at which the composition is heated, less than or equal to 0.45, more preferably 0.4.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is in the form of a rod, in particular with a diameter greater than or equal to 8 mm.

11. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the process is a makeup process and for example the composition is a lipstick.

12. Kit comprising:

a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, and - A heating device for locally heating a surface of a piece of said composition.