EP2303765B1 - Verfahren zum herstellen von dreidimensionalformen aus zusammengesetzten teilen mit verschiedenen elastizitätseigenschaften, und lederwarenartikel - Google Patents

Verfahren zum herstellen von dreidimensionalformen aus zusammengesetzten teilen mit verschiedenen elastizitätseigenschaften, und lederwarenartikel Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2303765B1
EP2303765B1 EP09797561.9A EP09797561A EP2303765B1 EP 2303765 B1 EP2303765 B1 EP 2303765B1 EP 09797561 A EP09797561 A EP 09797561A EP 2303765 B1 EP2303765 B1 EP 2303765B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
leather
structural
deformable
parts
tension
Prior art date
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Application number
EP09797561.9A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2303765A1 (de
Inventor
Luc Marie René Nicole DOGNIN
Rafik Aminé Abderrazak MAHIOUT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Scalera Sarl
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Scalera Sarl
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Publication of EP2303765A1 publication Critical patent/EP2303765A1/de
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B68—SADDLERY; UPHOLSTERY
    • B68F—MAKING ARTICLES FROM LEATHER, CANVAS, OR THE LIKE
    • B68F1/00—Making articles from leather, canvas, or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45C—PURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C3/00—Flexible luggage; Handbags
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45C—PURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C3/00—Flexible luggage; Handbags
    • A45C3/001—Flexible materials therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45C—PURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C5/00—Rigid or semi-rigid luggage
    • A45C5/03—Suitcases
    • A45C2005/032—Suitcases semi-rigid, i.e. resistant against deformation and resilient, e.g. with a resilient frame

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a three-dimensional shape of a bag or article of leather goods from two pieces intended to be assembled and having characteristics of different elasticities, including a piece of leather. It also relates to an article of leather goods, such as bags made from this process.
  • the invention is particularly applicable to leather goods at least partly made of leather.
  • the field of the invention is that of the industry of processing substantially flat materials for the purpose of making three-dimensional shapes.
  • the term "form" is to be considered not only in the proper sense (geometrical form), but it also designates, figuratively, an object or a set having the evoked geometrical properties (producing a "three-dimensional shape”) .
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a method for obtaining a three-dimensional shape of a bag or an article of leather goods, which does not imply the use of specific structural parts or armature.
  • This object is achieved with a method for producing a three-dimensional shape from two pieces to be assembled having distinct elasticity characteristics, including a leather piece, comprising the steps described in claim 1.
  • the method according to the invention it is possible to obtain a three-dimensional equilibrium shape having both strength and flexibility characteristics.
  • the outfit is due to the self-supporting properties of the structuring piece of leather, which is the body of the three-dimensional shape.
  • the structuring piece however has a certain flexibility, and lends itself to deformations, mainly in flexion.
  • structural and deforming parts made in webs or skins are used in the process, having reduced thicknesses relative to their other dimensions.
  • the method further comprises a step of cutting at least one of the two pieces after obtaining the three-dimensional shape.
  • the method further comprises a step of cutting at least one of the two parts prior to the tensioning of the deforming part.
  • the bonding step comprises spraying an adhesive having characteristics of resistance to moisture, on the structuring part and on the deforming part.
  • the invention also relates to a process having all of the preceding features and further comprising assembling said two assembled parts with other structural parts.
  • an article of leather goods such as a bag, according to claim 8.
  • the structuring piece is leather.
  • This structuring part is particularly sought for properties of mechanical strength and rigidity, essentially in tension / compression in the plane of its surface (when flat) or in the directions tangent thereto.
  • the structural part also resists deformation under the effect of stresses exerted perpendicularly to its surface.
  • this structural part is sought for this structural part a relatively high bending ability.
  • the structuring part thus has combined qualities of transverse mechanical strength and flexibility of the material.
  • a deforming piece 1 was prepared and cut such as "Bengaline Lycra®” or elastane®-based. This piece deforming will form a lining, which may have been woven with decorative or fancy patterns.
  • a first step (I) the deforming part 1 is cut beforehand according to a predetermined template according to the desired three-dimensional shape, that is to say as a function of the deformation that it will cause on the structuring part.
  • the deforming part 1 is then placed in a tensioning machine comprising two mechanical parts 10, 11 in which are inserted and locked the edges of the part 1 which is held in tension with a tension force F determined according to the characteristics of the deforming part used (stage II) and in particular its elasticity.
  • This tensioning force F must ensure a tension lower than the breaking force of the deforming part.
  • the adhesive used is preferably a strong adhesive and having a minimum sensitivity to environmental conditions and in particular humidity levels and temperature variations. It must not be retractable with water and heat; It may be Neoprene® or equivalent, but should preferably be environmentally and health friendly.
  • a structuring piece 2 made of leather or a similar material has been prepared and cut. This material will constitute both the body and the outer shell of the three-dimensional shape.
  • the structuring part is subjected (step IV) on one of these faces intended to be applied to the deforming part, to a glue application identical to that used to glue the deforming part 1.
  • the application of the glue is carried out from preferably on the so-called "velvet" side.
  • step V The deforming part 1 and the structuring part 2 previously glued are then superimposed and glued (step V), the deforming part 1 is always maintained in tension (step V).
  • step VI the tension force F is removed and the complex piece 1 + 2 thus produced is released, which instantly takes on a three-dimensional curved shape (step VI).
  • the deforming piece 1 which was previously stretched retracts to return to its nominal shape. However, it does not find exactly its initial shape given the resistance that the structural part 2 sets against it.
  • the curvature of the complex part 1 + 2 is induced by the difference of the tension forces exerted respectively on the structuring part 2 of rigid feature, and on the deforming piece 1 of elastic characteristic, and the fact that the two pieces form layers 1.2 firmly bonded to each other.
  • the curved shape is such that the structuring part 2 is located on the convex side, while the deforming part is located on the concave side.
  • the structuring piece plays a role of spring, when it works in bending.
  • This complex piece 1 + 2 is then completed (step VII) by assembling other structural parts.
  • This assembly is carried out by known techniques, such as sewing, gluing, etc.
  • the structural part 2 is leather
  • Accessories such as handles 21 and closures are then mounted on the bag 20.
  • the production steps that have just been described can be automated from current industrial manufacturing techniques.
  • the various equipment used for cutting, tensioning, gluing, bonding layers, and assembly can be provided with control means / numerical control and if necessary robotic.
  • the material used for the deforming part such as fabric, can be a standardized material, which allows a certainty as to the result, that is to say the precise obtaining of the desired three-dimensional shape.
  • the method is suitable not only for small but also for large areas of structuring and deforming parts.
  • the surface is actually a determining factor of the implementation.
  • the bag 20 thus obtained then has a permanent three-dimensional shape without the need to include specific stiffening or holding parts to form a structure or frame.
  • the maintenance is carried out directly by the leather layer 2 (structuring part) whose flower 23 constitutes the outer face of the envelope.
  • the deformation was caused by the fabric layer 1 with elastic properties (deforming part), one side of which will constitute the lining of the bag, a layer of glue 3 having been applied between the pile of the leather layer 2 and the facing face.
  • each of the structuring and deforming parts provides three functions: a first function is mechanical, in terms of resistance (for the structuring part) and of retraction (for the deforming part), in order to obtain the desired three-dimensional shape.
  • a second function is to jointly form an envelope for a container (wall of the bag).
  • a third function is to constitute the style (made visual, tactile) outside or inside the bag. It is remarkable that these three functions are assured only by two pieces contiguous to one another.

Claims (8)

  1. Verfahren zum Herstellen einer dreidimensionalen Form einer Tasche oder eines Lederartikels (20) aus zwei Teilen (1, 2), die dazu vorgesehen sind, zusammengesetzt zu werden, und mit verschiedenen Elastizitätseigenschaften, wovon ein Teil ein Lederteil ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    ein Anlegen von Spannung und ein Aufrechterhalten von Spannung des Teils (1) mit den höchsten Elastizitätseigenschaften, das verformendes Teil genannt wird,
    ein Verkleben des Lederteils (2) mit den niedrigsten Elastizitätseigenschaften, das strukturierendes Teil genannt wird, auf dem unter Spannung stehenden Verformungsteil,
    ein Unterdrücken der auf das verformende Teil ausgeübten Spannung, die auf das strukturierende Lederteil einwirkt, um es in Biegung zu verformen und ein komplexes Formteil (1+2) zu erhalten, das von den zusammengesetzten verformenden und strukturierenden Teilen gebildet ist, wobei das komplexe Teil die gewünschte dreidimensionale Form aufweist, wobei die dreidimensionale Form so gekrümmt ist, dass das strukturierende Lederteil (2) auf der konvexen Seite angeordnet ist, während das deformierende Teil (1) auf der konkaven Seite angeordnet ist.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die strukturierenden und verformenden Teile in Tischdecken oder Häute mit geringeren Dicken im Vergleich zu ihren anderen Abmessungen eingearbeitet werden.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es ferner einen Schneideschritt mindestens eines der beiden Teile nach Erhalt der dreidimensionalen Form umfasst.
  4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es ferner einen Schneideschritt mindestens eines der beiden Teile vor dem Spannen des Verformungsteils umfasst.
  5. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Verklebungsschritt das Aufsprühen eines feuchtigkeitsbeständigen Klebers auf das strukturierte Lederteil (2) und auf das Verformungsteil (1) umfasst.
  6. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es ferner eine Abgrenzung der zu verklebenden Bereiche des strukturierenden Lederteils umfasst.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, das ferner das Zusammenfügen des komplexen Teils (1+2) mit anderen Strukturteilen (22) umfasst.
  8. Lederartikel (20), wie eine Tasche, wovon mindestens ein Teil aus zwei zusammengesetzten Teilen (1,2) mit verschiedenen Elastizitätseigenschaften ausgeführt ist, in dem ein verformendes Teil die höchsten Elastizitätseigenschaften aufweist, und ein strukturierendes Lederteil (2) die niedrigsten Elastizitätseigenschaften aufweist, wobei das strukturierende Lederteil auf das verformende Teil verklebt ist, das auf das strukturierende Lederteil eine Spannung ausübt, so dass beide Teile eine dreidimensionale gekrümmte Form aufweisen, so dass das strukturierende Lederteil auf der konvexen Seite angeordnet ist, während das verformende Teil auf der konkaven Seite angeordnet ist.
EP09797561.9A 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Verfahren zum herstellen von dreidimensionalformen aus zusammengesetzten teilen mit verschiedenen elastizitätseigenschaften, und lederwarenartikel Active EP2303765B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0854220A FR2933027B1 (fr) 2008-06-25 2008-06-25 Procede et systeme pour produire des formes tridimentionnelles a partir de pieces assemblees ayant des caracteristiques d'elasticites distinctes.
PCT/FR2009/000793 WO2010007242A1 (fr) 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Procédé et système pour produire des formes tridimensionnelles à partir de pièces assemblées ayant des caractéristiques d'élasticités distinctes

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2303765A1 EP2303765A1 (de) 2011-04-06
EP2303765B1 true EP2303765B1 (de) 2018-12-19

Family

ID=40344945

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09797561.9A Active EP2303765B1 (de) 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Verfahren zum herstellen von dreidimensionalformen aus zusammengesetzten teilen mit verschiedenen elastizitätseigenschaften, und lederwarenartikel

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2303765B1 (de)
JP (1) JP5527907B2 (de)
KR (1) KR101326021B1 (de)
CN (1) CN102083739A (de)
FR (1) FR2933027B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2010007242A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102016110B1 (ko) * 2018-06-15 2019-08-29 김명희 가죽 가방 제조 방법

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE641614C (de) * 1936-04-24 1937-02-06 Spielmann & Co G Verfahren zur Erzeugung von Falten und Faltenmusterungen auf Leder fuer Taeschnerwaren und anderen flachen Werkstoffen
GB1277038A (en) * 1969-07-09 1972-06-07 Vladimirsky Nii Sint Smol A method of manufacturing shaped articles from elastic porous materials
FR2415474A2 (fr) * 1978-01-25 1979-08-24 Delhome Rene Procede de fabrication d'une figurine-jouet et figurine obtenue par ce procede
JPH0354572Y2 (de) * 1986-05-30 1991-12-03
JPH0546308U (ja) * 1991-11-29 1993-06-22 三恵ライトパック株式会社 小物入用携行バッグ
IN189366B (de) * 1996-02-12 2003-02-15 Mcneil Ppc Inc
KR200262992Y1 (ko) * 2001-07-27 2002-02-02 지. 아이. 씨 상사 주식회사 가죽옷 소재
KR200308743Y1 (ko) * 2002-12-16 2003-03-26 화인고무(주) 고무천연가죽 시트
JP2004236875A (ja) * 2003-02-06 2004-08-26 Raraya:Kk バッグ
FR2888829B1 (fr) * 2005-07-22 2007-09-07 Faurecia Interieur Ind Snc Procede de mise en forme d'une peau de cuir

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2933027A1 (fr) 2010-01-01
CN102083739A (zh) 2011-06-01
KR101326021B1 (ko) 2013-11-07
WO2010007242A1 (fr) 2010-01-21
FR2933027B1 (fr) 2011-02-18
WO2010007242A4 (fr) 2010-03-18
JP2011525823A (ja) 2011-09-29
EP2303765A1 (de) 2011-04-06
JP5527907B2 (ja) 2014-06-25
KR20110040863A (ko) 2011-04-20

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