EP2198737B1 - Permanent reshaping process using a heating mechanical tensioning device - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a method of permanently deforming the hair comprising, inter alia, a step of heating the hair using a heating mechanical tensioning device. The invention also relates to the heating mechanical tensioning device.

The most usual technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the disulfide -SS- bonds of keratin (keratocystin) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent ( reduction step) then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, generally with water, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously tensioned for example by curlers, an oxidizing composition (step d oxidation, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to perform the waving of the hair (permanent process). The new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently durable over time and resists particularly the action of washing with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as styling.

It is constantly sought more effective permanent deformation processes, less harmful to keratin fibers and leading to more durable capillary deformations.

In order to improve the performance of permanent processes, the compositions generally used contain significant concentrations of reducing agent (s). For the same purpose, it has also been developed a heating process during the reduction step, in order to increase the chemical action of the reducing agent or agents. These technologies use hot air, hot steam or infra-red to heat hair on a roller or curler.

It has been observed that these technologies do not lead to a significant improvement in terms of longevity of the capillary deformation, such as, for example, loops, compared with conventional cold-perm techniques. In addition, the treated hair has significant degradations, which inhibit users to perform repeated hair treatments, such as permanent perms or the combination of a permanent and a color for example.

The document EP 1 935 275 describes a method of deforming the hair by means of flexible hair curlers and reclosable on themselves. In example 2 of This document describes a method in which a reducing composition is applied to flexible curlers and a plastic film is wrapped around the head. Helmet heating is carried out for 15 minutes until the hair has completely dried. An oxidizing composition is then applied. We pause for 5 minutes and remove the hair curlers. However, this method can be further improved, since the shape and the nervousness of the crimps are still insufficient.

There is therefore a need to find a method of tensioning the hair, giving loops of shape and improved nervousness.

Thus, the invention relates to a method as defined in claim 1.

When the covering means is put in place on the curler, they together constitute a closed and occlusive structure, in particular in which the heat can diffuse. This closed and occlusive structure is called "closed space".

A cover means is placed above each curler, i.e., a cover means individually covers each hair curler. The method according to the invention using an individual cover, hair curler curler, has the advantage of preventing the scalp from flowing from the reducing composition applied in step b).

According to a variant of the invention, the closed space may comprise opening zones, the surface area of which is less than 5% of the total area of the covering means, preferably less than 3%, and more particularly less than 0%. , 5%. In practice, the skilled person will achieve these opening areas, so as not to disturb the diffusion of heat in the closed space.

The openings may be passages, holes, or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the closed space and the outside, especially when the condensation inside the closed space is too great.

In the process according to the invention, the temperature is set, adjusted and regulated by means of the heating means and is measured on the hair using a thermometric probe, for example the Digital Surface Sensor. Module, Reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi EH VOC CORP. (Japan). This probe is generally placed on a single hair, and more advantageously on a portion of hair that is directly in contact with the closed space, more advantageously still on a portion of hair that is directly in contact with the closed space and that forms the last winding turn on the curler.

Preferably, the measurement of the temperature is carried out at the normal atmospheric pressure of 101 325 Pa.

According to the invention, the temperature of the hair is identical to plus or minus 2 ° C or 3 ° C throughout the head of the person and the probe can be placed on any hair.

In addition, the method of deformation of the hair according to the invention leads to obtaining the same temperature for all the hair at plus or minus 2 ° C or 3 ° C and a maintenance of the constant hair temperature, at plus or minus 2 ° C or 3 ° C, throughout the duration of the heating at a given fixed temperature. In this way, the shaping of the hair is regular and homogeneous throughout the hair and the hairstyle is ultimately more neat.

Advantageously, the covering means comprises one or more thermally insulating materials and more advantageously still, the covering means consists solely of thermally insulating materials.

Thermally insulating material is understood to mean materials having an electrical conductivity of between 0 and 1 W / m 2 ° C. (PVC: 0.17 W / m 2 ° C).

Preferably, the heating means is adjusted so that the temperature detected on the hair is greater than or equal to 70 ° C, more preferably greater than or equal to 75 ° C and less than 150 ° C, and preferably less than 100 ° C. Preferably, the heating is an electric resistance heating.

Advantageously, the covering means is impervious to the composition of step (b).

According to the invention, the closed space forms a condensation cage, in which the water or the composition of step (b) evaporates from the hair by heating, is deposited on the walls of the covering means and then falls again on the hair, this cycle being repeated one or more times during the entire duration of the heating. In this way, the hair is constantly moistened during heating, which prevents drying and degradation.

The realization of the closed space is an important feature of the method according to the invention, since the latter leads to a constant temperature on the hair which coexists with a permanent wetting of the latter.

The method according to the invention may advantageously comprise an additional step, consisting of tightening the covering means with the aid of an elastic band, an extensible band or a stretch on the head of the person.

Preferably, in the method according to the invention, the covering means is placed less than 20 mm, preferably less than 10 mm, more preferably less than 5 mm from the hair forming the last turn of each curler. According to the invention, the term "distance between the hair forming the last turn of each hair curler" and the cover, the minimum measurable distance between the hair forming the last turn of each hair curler and the cover.

Because of the closed space defined according to the invention, which causes successive condensations of the reducing composition on the hair, the The process according to the invention has the advantage of using a quantity of reducing agents which is generally less than the amount used in most of the processes of the prior art.

Advantageously, the reducing agent (s) represent (s) 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

• au moins un moyen de mise sous tension mécanique des fibres kératiniques, et
• au moins un moyen de couverture desdites fibres, caractérisé en ce que ledit moyen de mise sous tension mécanique ou ledit moyen de couverture, ou bien ces deux moyens incluent un moyen de chauffage et sont aptes à réaliser un espace fermé lorsqu'ils sont placés sur la tête d'une personne.

A mechanical tensioning device may be used comprising:

• at least one means for mechanically tensioning the keratinous fibers, and
• at least one means for covering said fibers, characterized in that said mechanical tensioning means or said covering means, or both of these means include a heating means and are able to realize a closed space when they are placed on the head of a person.

This device can be used for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers.

The invention can finally use a kit.

Other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description which follows.

The process of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprises a first step (a) of mechanically tensioning the keratinous fibers by winding them onto mechanical tensioning means so as to form loops.

The winding of the mechanical tensioning devices can be done along the entire length of the hair or at mid-length on long hair. Depending on the shape of hairstyle and the amount of curls desired, the reeling is done with more or less thick locks.

According to the method of the invention, the mechanical tensioning means may be a curler, a roller or a gripper.

Then follows a step of application to the keratinous fibers of a reducing composition (b), to reduce the disulfide bonds of keratin, followed by a possible exposure time.

According to a variant of the process according to the invention, the step of application to the keratinous fibers of the reducing composition (noted b) can precede the step of mechanical stressing of the keratinous fibers (denoted by a), with or without pause time. In this case, the reduction step is carried out in the original form of the fibers, that is to say on non-energized fibers.

According to a first embodiment of the process according to the invention, the reducing composition according to the invention has an alkaline pH, preferably between 7 and 13, more particularly between 8 and 10, better still between 8 and 9.5. .

According to a second embodiment of the process according to the invention, the reducing composition according to the invention has an acidic pH, that is to say between 1 and 7, preferably between 3 and 7, better still between 4 and 7. and 6.5.

The reducing composition according to the invention comprises one or more thiolated or non-thiolated reducing agents.

1 / Thiol reducers

Preferably, the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more thiolated reducing agents chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, mercaptopropionic acid, monothioglycerol, cysteamine, cysteine, one of their derivatives, one of their salts, one of their esters, one of their hydrates or one of their isomers.

• l'acide thioglycolique de formule (1) :
  
          HS-CH₂-COOH     (1),
  
  
• l'acide thiolactique de formule (2) :
  
• l'acide 3-mercaptopropionique de formule (3) :
  
          HS-CH₂-CH₂-COOH     (3)
  
  
• la cystéamine de formule (4) :
  
          HS-CH₂-CH₂-NH₂     (4)
  
  
• les composés de type cystéine de formule (5) :
  
  • avec R1 désignant H ou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C1-C10, ou un ion issu d'une base organique ou minérale.
  • et R2 désignant Hou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C1-C10, ou un ion issu d'une base organique ou minérale ou un radical acyle linéaire ou ramifié en C2-C10.
  • Et n désignant 1 ou 2.

The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention more preferably comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more thiolated reducing agents chosen from those enumerated below or one of their derivatives, one of their salts, one of their esters, one of their hydrates or one of their isomers.

• the thioglycolic acid of formula (1):
  
  HS-CH ₂ -COOH (1),
  
  
• the thiolactic acid of formula (2):
  
• 3-mercaptopropionic acid of formula (3):
  
  HS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -COOH (3)
  
  
• cysteamine of formula (4):
  
  HS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH ₂ (4)
  
  
• the cysteine type compounds of formula (5):
  
  • with R1 denoting H or a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl radical, or an ion derived from an organic or inorganic base.
  • and R2 denoting H 0 a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl radical, or an ion derived from an organic or inorganic base or a linear or branched C2-C10 acyl radical.
  • And n denoting 1 or 2.

Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made, as preferred compounds, of cysteine and its salts, homocysteine and its salts, N-acetylcysteine and methyl cysteinate.

Examples of cysteine esters are N-substituted cysteine derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteines, N-aroylcysteines, N-acetylated cysteine amides, cysteine alkyl esters and / or their salts.

DL-cysteine and N-acetylcysteine are preferred.

Among the cosmetically acceptable salts of the products (1) to (4) above, mention may be made more particularly of ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, and alkaline earth metal salts. As primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine and triethanolamine, respectively.

Among the esters of the compounds (1) to (4) above, there may be mentioned glycerol monothioglycolate, ethylene glycol monothioglycolate, the azeotropic mixture of hydroxy-2-propyl thioglycolate and hydroxyl thioglycolate. 2-methyl-1 ethyl described in the patent application FR-A-2,679,448 glycerol monothiolactate, ethylene glycol monothiolactate, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate, ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate.

Among the cosmetically acceptable salts of the above reducing agents of formula (5), mention may be made more particularly of hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, citrates, acetates and sulphates.

The reducing agent or agents generally represent from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

2 / Reducer not thiolated

Preferably, the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more non-thiolated reducing agents chosen from unsulfurized reducers or protected thiols, sulphites, bisulfites or sulfinic acid derivatives, a of their derivatives, one of their salts, one of their esters, one of their hydrates or one of their isomers.

For the purposes of the present invention, protected thiol is understood to mean any molecule capable of generating a thiol by a simple chemical or photochemical reaction (hydrolysis for example).

Among the protected thiols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of thioesters, thiocarbonates, thiocarbamates and thioethers.

Preferably, the reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from non-sulfur reducing agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-sulfur reducers" means a reducing agent which does not comprise a sulfur atom in its structure.

The non-sulfur reducing agent (s) included in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from phosphines, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal borohydrides, reducing sugars and reductones.

As phosphines that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of monophosphines or diphosphines as described in the series FR2870119 .

As borohydrides that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium or potassium borohydride.

As reducing sugars, there may be mentioned, without limitation, ribose, glucose, maltose, galactose, lactose or xylose.

Among the reductones of the invention ascorbic acid and erythorbic acid are preferred.

The at least one reducing agent may also be chosen from sulphites, bisulfites or sulfinic acid derivatives.

As sulphites and bisulfites that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sulphites or bisulfites of alkali or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and in particular sulphite or sulphite of sodium, potassium or sulphites. or bisulphites of alkanolamines such as sulfite or bisulfite monoethanolamine.
Examples of sulfinic acid derivatives are given in the series FR2814948 .

The non-thiolated reducing agent or agents generally represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

These thiolated or non-thiolated reducing agents are generally used in cosmetically acceptable compositions that are well known per se in the existing state of the art of curling formulations designed to carry out the first step (reduction) of a permanent operation. Thus, as conventional and customary additives, which can be used alone or in mixtures, surfactants of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric type may be mentioned more particularly and, among these, alkylsulphates, alkylbenzenesulphates may be mentioned. alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl betaines, oxyethylenated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters and other nonionic surfactants of the hydroxypropyl ether type.

When the reducing composition contains at least one surfactant, it is generally present at a maximum concentration of 30% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition. .

In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair or to reduce or prevent its degradation, the reducing composition may also contain a treating agent of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature.

Among the particularly preferred treatment agents, mention may be made especially of those described in the patent applications French 2 598 613 and 2,470,596 . It is also possible to use volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones and mixtures thereof, polydimethylsiloxanes and quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in the patent application. French No. 2,535,730 polyorganosiloxanes containing aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups such as those described in the patent U.S. Patent No. 4,749,732 polyorganosiloxanes such as the polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of the Dimethicone Copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane containing end-groups stearoxy (stearoxydimethicone), a polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or a polydimethylsiloxane-polyalkylbetaine copolymer described in the patent application. British Patent No. 2,197,352 , organopolysiloxanes modified with mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups such as those described in the patent French 1,530,369 and in the patent application European No 295 780 as well as silanes such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.

The reducing composition may also contain other treating ingredients such as cationic polymers such as those used in the compositions of the patents French N ° 79.32078 ( FR-A-2,472,382 ) and 80.26421 ( FR-A-2,495,931 ), or cationic polymers of the ionene type such as those used in the compositions of the patent Luxembourgish No. 83703 . She can also contain basic amino acids (such as lysine, arginine) or acids (such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid), peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, swelling agents and penetration or to enhance the effectiveness of the reducing agent, such as SiO ₂ / PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane), dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, solvents such as alkyl ethers, alkylene glycol or dialkylene glycol such as for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, C ₃ -C ₆ alkanediols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol. and butanediol-1,2, imidazolidinone-2 and other compounds such as fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, active ingredients such as pantothenic acid, fall arrest agents, anti-dandruff agents, thickeners, suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens as well as perfumes and preservatives.

The basifying agent, preferably used in the compositions useful according to the invention is an agent for increasing the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is located. The basifying agent is a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic.

1. a) l'ammoniaque,
2. b) les alcanolamines telles que les mono-, di- et triéthanolamines ainsi que leurs dérivés,
3. c) les éthylènediamines oxyéthylénées et/ou oxypropylénées,
4. d) les hydroxydes minéraux ou organiques,
5. e) les silicates de métaux alcalins tels que les métasilicates de sodium,
6. f) les acides aminés de préférences basiques comme l'arginine, la lysine, l'ornithine, la citruline et l'hystidine,
7. g) les (bi)carbonates particulièrement d'amine primaire, secondaire ou tertiaire (ammonium), de métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux et
8. h) les composés de formule (II) suivante :
   
   dans laquelle W est un reste propylène éventuellement substitué par un groupement hydroxy ou un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ; Ra, Rb, Rc et Rd, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ou hydroxyalkyle en C1-C4.

In particular, the basifying agent is chosen from:

1. a) ammonia,
2. b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives,
3. (c) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines,
4. d) inorganic or organic hydroxides,
5. e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates,
6. f) amino acids of basic preferences such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and hystidine,
7. (g) (bi) carbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine (ammonium), alkali metal or alkaline earth metal amine, and
8. h) the compounds of formula (II) below:
   
   wherein W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxy group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as hydroxides of sodium or of potassium, c) the hydroxides of a metal such as the hydroxides of Group III, IV, V and VI metals, d) the hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.

The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.

Ammonia and monoethanolamine are preferred.

The alkalinizing agent (s) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the weight of the composition containing them. More particularly from 0.005% to 8% by weight of the composition. This concentration is in particular a function of the pH of the desired reducing composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the reducing composition is allowed to act for a period of 1 to 50 minutes, preferably for 1 to 30 minutes. Preferably, the reducing composition is applied to moist and clean capillary fibers.

The process then optionally comprises a step of rinsing the keratinous fibers (c).

Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a rinsing step (c).

Then, the method according to the invention comprises a step (d) of setting up a cover means of said mechanical tensioning means to form a closed space intended to maintain a temperature of between 50 and 250 ° C.

According to the method of the invention, the covering means may be a flexible or rigid material.

The flexible material can be formed by a sheet, a film, a textile or a cap. For example, it may be a plastic film, especially polyvinylidene chloride or polyvinyl chloride, or aluminum foil.

According to the method of the invention, the keratin fiber heating system limits the evaporation of the reducing composition and / or the rinsing water of said fibers and maintains the constant temperature of the hair throughout the heating step .

According to the invention, the heating means may be included in the mechanical tensioning means (heating curlers directly covered with a film for example), included in the covering means, or included in these two means. Preferably, the heating means is included in the covering means.

Then follows the heating step (e).

The heating means may be a heating electric resistor powered by a battery or a mains plug. This resistance can be incorporated in the tensioning means (hair curlers for example) or in the covering means (plastic film for example, or it can be incorporated in these two means.

This heating means is varied and regulated according to the desired temperature on the hair.

Preferably, the temperature of the hair is between 55 ° C and 150 ° C, more preferably between 60 ° C and 90 ° C.

The duration of the heating is generally between 1 minutes and 2 hours, preferably between 1 and 30 minutes, more preferably between 5 and 20 minutes, and preferably between 10 and 15 minutes.

Advantageously, the closed space made in step (d) is maintained throughout the duration of the heating step (e), that is to say that the cover means is removed, only when the heating is finished, that is, in practice, when the heating is off.

Generally, the duration of heating is a function of the set temperature and the amount of wick wrapped around the device.

The method according to the invention optionally comprises an oxidation fixation step (f), after removal of the covering means, for reforming the disulfide bonds, by application to the keratinous fibers of an oxidizing composition containing at least one oxidizing agent, followed possibly a time of installation.

The oxidizing composition generally comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates.

Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention contains at least one stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide.

Mention may be made especially of alkaline or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali or alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin or salts of acids and oxyquinoline, such as oxyquinoline sulphate. . More advantageously still, at least one stannate is used in combination or not with at least one pyrophosphate.

The stabilizing agent (s) for hydrogen peroxide generally represent from 0.0001% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

Generally, the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from 1.5 to 4.5, preferably from 2 to 3.5.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition as defined above is allowed to act for about 2 to 30 minutes, preferably for 2 to 15 minutes, more particularly between 2 to 7 minutes.

The method according to the invention may comprise a step of removing the mechanical tensioning devices; a rinsing step, generally with water, optionally followed by a drying step.

Preferably, the method which is the subject of the invention comprises a step of applying a care composition containing a non-silicone cationic polymer or a preferably aminated silicone.

Among all the non-silicone cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use in the reducing composition the cyclopolymers, in particular the homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name Merquat 100 by the MERCK company, the diammonium quaternary polymers, and in particular the MEXOMERE PO.

The preferred silicone is WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1 silicone.

A step of applying a care composition makes it possible to limit or avoid hair sensitization that could result from the treatment of the hair with reducing agents and oxidizing agents during the permanent deformation process that is the subject of the invention. The care composition as defined above also makes it possible to protect the artificial color of the hair.

The vehicle of the reducing, oxidizing and caring compositions is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may advantageously contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, of which, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The organic solvents can then be present in concentrations between about 0.1 and 20% and preferably between about 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the oxidizing composition and of the care composition used in the process according to the invention can be obtained and / or adjusted conventionally by adding either one or more alkaline agents, such as those already mentioned in the reducing composition, or acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.

The reducing composition, the oxidizing composition and the care composition used in the process according to the invention may be independently of one another in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, a gel or foam.

• au moins un moyen de mise sous tension mécanique des fibres kératiniques, et
• au moins un moyen de couverture desdites fibres, caractérisé en ce que ledit moyen de mise sous tension mécanique, ledit moyen de couverture ou ces deux moyens possèdent un moyen de chauffage et sont aptes à réaliser un espace fermé lorsqu'ils sont placés sur la tête d'une personne.

As indicated above, the invention also relates to a mechanical tensioning device comprising:

• at least one means for mechanically tensioning the keratinous fibers, and
• at least one means for covering said fibers, characterized in that said mechanical tensioning means, said covering means or both means have a heating means and are capable of producing a closed space when they are placed on the head of somebody.

The mechanical tensioning means is a means for shaping the keratinous fibers. It can be a hair curler, a roller or a pliers.

The covering means may be a flexible or rigid material.

The flexible material can be formed by a sheet, a film, a textile or a cap. For example, it may be an aluminum foil or a plastic film made of polyvinylidene chloride or polyvinyl chloride.

According to a variant of the device according to the invention, the covering means is impervious, in particular with water, so that during the entire duration of heating, the lock of hair does not dry. The covering means thus makes it possible to avoid the evaporation of the compositions. Thus, the concentration of residual water or steam according to the applied temperature present on the lock of hair should preferably remain constant throughout the duration of heating.

According to another variant of the device according to the invention, the covering means is insulating with heat, so that during the entire duration of the heating, it has an oven function, that is to say that the heat produced in particular by the powering means, the cover means or both means does not dissipate outside the device. The covering means thus makes it possible to maintain the temperature constant throughout the heating step.

According to another variant of the device according to the invention, the covering means may be described as a sealed and adiabatic wall.

According to the invention, the heating means can be either only included in the mechanical tensioning means, or only included in the covering means, or included in these two means. Preferably, the heating means is included in the covering means.

In a particular case, pulsed hot air, water vapor, high-frequency induction heat, microwaves, radiation below, are used as the energy source of the process of the invention. red, a laser or irradiations by "flash lamp".

The mechanical tensioning means and the covering means may be independent of one another. They can be adapted by their respective form to each other. They can also be integral with each other, such as for example interconnected by power supply son to form a network.

The heating means may be a heating electric resistor powered by a battery or a mains plug.

According to a preferred embodiment, the distance between the hair wrapped around the mechanical tensioning means according to the invention and the covering means is between 0 cm, that is to say that the covering means can be find in contact with the wick or very close to it.

The covering means, whether flexible or rigid may include a means of raising, to raise above the hair cover means at a distance of between 0.5 and 5 centimeters.

According to a variant of the device according to the invention, the raising means may be a crown, that is to say a reinforcement adapting to the circumference of the head, disposed thereon, maintaining the cover means to the distance desired by the user.

The duration and temperature of the heating will also be a function of the distance between the covering means and the lock of hair wrapped around the mechanical tensioning means.

The device as defined above can be used for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers.

• un dispositif de mise sous tension mécanique comprenant :
  • au moins un moyen de mise sous tension mécanique des fibres kératiniques, et
  • au moins un moyen de couverture desdites fibres, ledit moyen de mise sous tension mécanique, ledit moyen de couverture ou ces deux moyens incluant un moyen de chauffage et étant aptes à réaliser un espace fermé lorsqu'ils sont placés sur la tête d'une personne,
• un compartiment contenant une réductrice, comprenant de préférence un ou plusieurs réducteurs choisi parmi les réducteurs thiolés ou non thiolés.

The invention can also use a kit associating at least:

• a mechanical tensioning device comprising:
  • at least one means for mechanically tensioning the keratinous fibers, and
  • at least one means for covering said fibers, said mechanical tensioning means, said covering means or both of these means including heating means and being adapted to provide a closed space when placed on the head of a person,
• a compartment containing a reducing agent, preferably comprising one or more reducing agents chosen from thiolated or non-thiolated reducing agents.

Optionally, the kit may contain a cosmetic composition containing at least one oxidizing agent.

Examples

The following compositions were prepared (in percentage by mass):

A. Reduction in an alkaline medium

Composition 1 (reducing lotion): Thioglycolic acid 6.8 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.8 Pentasodium pentetate (in 40% aqueous solution) 0.4 Ammonia (in 20% aqueous solution of NH3) qsp pH 8.7 Distilled water qs 100 Composition 2 (oxidizing lotion): Sodium bromate 8 Trisodium phosphate 0.4 Sodium phosphate 0.4 Citric acid qsp pH 7.5 Distilled water qs 100

Example 1 (invention)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the heating curlers was stopped and after having removed the plastic film, the composition 2 was applied to the hair for 10 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

The loops thus obtained are very dense.

Example 2 (reference)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 2 was applied for 10 minutes. At the end of this new time The loops thus obtained are much more relaxed than in Example 1. Crimp is therefore less important. Reduction Process of the invention Fixation curling Durability of the mouth Example 1 Composition 1 15 min. 90 ° C 30 min. Composition 2 10 min. ++ ++ Example 2 Composition 1 15 min. - Composition 2 10 min. + - ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency
-: Very low loop efficiency

B. Reduction in acidic medium (the reference is made in a basic medium)

The following compositions were prepared (in percentage by mass): <u> Composition 1 (Reference: reducing lotion) </ u> Thioglycolic acid 6.8 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.8 Pentasodium pentetate (40% in aqueous solution) 0.4 Ammonia (20% in aqueous solution) qsp pH 8.7 Distilled water qs 100 Thioglycolic acid 1.0 Pentasodium pentetate (40% in aqueous solution) 0.4 Ammonia (20% in aqueous solution) qsp pH 5.0 Distilled water qs 100 Thioglycolic acid 3.0 Pentasodium pentetate (40% in aqueous solution) 0.4 Ammonia (20% in aqueous solution) qsp pH 5.0 Distilled water qs 100 Sodium bromate 8 Trisodium phosphate 0.4 Sodium phosphate 0.4 Citric acid qsp pH 7.5 Distilled water qs 100

Example 1 (reference)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 4 was applied for 10 minutes. The hair was then unwound, rinsed and air dried.

Example 2 (invention)

Composition 2 was applied to a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 15 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. At the end of this pause time, the composition 4 was applied to the hair for 10 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 3 (Invention)

Composition 2 was applied to a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 15 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 4 (Invention)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. At the end of this pause time, the composition 4 was applied to the hair for 10 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 5 (Invention)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 6 (Invention)

The composition 3 was applied to a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 15 minutes. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. At the end of this pause time, the plastic film is removed, the composition 4 was applied to the hair for 10 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

A durability test of the artificial loop was carried out on the locks of hair thus treated in Examples 1 to 6. For this purpose, the locks were kept taut for 5 hours at 40 ° C. and in a relative humidity of 100%. . The behavior of the loops is evaluated by comparing the crimp before and after the test. Reduction Process of the invention Fixation curling Durability of the loop Example 1 Composition 1 15 min. - Compositio n 4 10 min. + - Example 2 Composition 2 90 ° C - 15min. Compositio n 4 10 min. + + Example 3 Composition 2 90 ° C - 15min. - + + Example 4 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C - 30 min. Compositio n 4 10 min. + + Example 5 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C - 30 min. - + + Example 6 Composition 3 90 ° C - 15min. Compositio n 4 10 min. ++ + ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency

3. Non-thiol reducers

The following composition was prepared (in percentage by mass): <u> Composition 1 (reducing lotion) </ u> Sodium hydrosulfite 1.12 HCl qsp pH 8.0 Distilled water qs 100

Example 1 (reference)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7cm in diameter. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 2 (invention)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 15 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and dried in the open air.

A durability test of the artificial loop was carried out on the locks of hair treated according to Examples 1 and 2. For this purpose, the locks were held taut for 5 hours at 40 ° C. and in a relative humidity of 100%. The behavior of the loops is evaluated by comparing the crimp before and after the test. Reduction Process of the invention curling Durability of the loop Example 1 Composition 1 15 min. - - - Example 2 Composition 1 15 min. 90 ° C ++ + ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency
-: Very low loop efficiency

The following compositions were prepared (in percentage by mass): <u> Composition 2 (reducing lotion) </ u> Sodium sulphite 6.3 HCl qsp pH 7.0 Distilled water qs 100 Sodium bromate 8 Trisodium phosphate 0.4 Sodium phosphate 0.4 Citric acid qsp pH 7.5 Distilled water qs 100

Example 3 (reference)

Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 4 (Invention)

Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. The hair was then unrolled, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 5 (Invention)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

The durability test of the artificial loop was carried out according to the method described in Examples 1 and 2. Reduction Process of the invention Fixation curling Durability of the loop Example 3 Composition 2 15 min. - Composition 3 10 min. - - Example 4 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C intra Composition 3 10 min. ++ + Example 5 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C intra - ++ + ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency
-: Very low loop efficiency

The following compositions were prepared (in percentage by mass): Composition 4 Composition 5 Composition 6 Sodium hydrosulfide 2.8 - - Sodium hydrosulfide - 8.7 - Formamidine sulfinic acid - - 6.9 monoethanolamine pH 9 pH 9 pH 9 Distilled water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Example 6 (reference)

The composition 4 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 7 (Invention)

The composition 4 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the pause time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and the composition 3 has been applied for 10 minutes. The hair was then unrolled, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 8 (Invention)

The composition 4 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 9 (reference)

Composition 5 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 10 (Invention)

Composition 5 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the pause time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and the composition 3 has been applied for 10 minutes. The hair was then unrolled, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 11 (Invention)

Composition 5 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 12 (reference)

The composition 6 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

Example 13 (invention)

The composition 6 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7m in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 10 minutes. The hair was then unrolled, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 14 (Invention)

The composition 6 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed and dried in the open air.

The durability test of the artificial loop was carried out according to the method described in Examples 1 and 2. Reduction Process of the invention Fixation curling Durability of the loop Example 6 Composition 4 15 min. - Composition 3 10 min. - - Example 7 Composition 4 15 min. 90 ° C intra Composition 3 10 min. ++ ++ Example 8 Composition 4 15 min. 90 ° C intra - ++ ++ Example 9 Composition 5 15 min. - Composition 3 10 min. - - Example 10 Composition 5 15 min. 90 ° C intra Composition 3 10 min. ++ + Example 11 Composition 5 15 min. 90 ° C intra - ++ + Example 12 Composition 6 15 min. - Composition 3 10 min. - - Example 13 Composition 6 15 min. 90 ° C intra Composition 3 10 min. + + Example 14 Composition 6 15 min. 90 ° C intra - + + ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency
-: Very low loop efficiency

4. Cysteine-type reductant and derivatives

The following compositions were prepared (in percentage by mass): <u> Composition 1 (reducing lotion) </ u> DL-Cysteine 6.06 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.8 Pentasodium pentetate (40% in aqueous solution) 0.4 monoethanolamine qsp pH 8.7 Distilled water qs 100 N-acetylcysteine 8.15 Ammonium bicarbonate 2.8 Pentasodium pentetate (40% in aqueous solution) 0.4 monoethanolamine qsp pH 8.7 Distilled water qs 100 Hydrogen peroxide (35% in aqueous solution) 5.15 Sodium salicylate 0.04 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.05 Phosphoric acid qsp pH 3 Distilled water qs 100

Example 1 (invention)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. Composition 3 was applied to the hair for 5 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 2 (reference)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7cm in diameter. After the break time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was applied for 5 minutes. The hair was then unwound, rinsed and air dried.

Example 3 (Invention)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. After the break time, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. Composition 3 was applied to the hair for 5 minutes. At the end of this pause time, the hair was unwound, rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 4 (reference)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. At the end of the pause time, the hair was rinsed and the composition 3 was been applied for 5 minutes. The hair was then unwound, rinsed and air dried.

Example 5 invention

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder 1.7cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes. After the pause time, the hair was rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 6 (reference)

The composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. After the pause time, the hair was rinsed and dried with outdoors.

Example 7 (Invention)

The composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of natural Japanese hair of 1 g previously wound on a curler composed of a polyethylene cylinder of 1.7 cm in diameter (the curler itself) covering an electrical resistance. At the end of the break time, the plastic film is removed, the hair has been rinsed. The hair curler was then covered with a polychlorovinylidene plastic film and connected by an electrical connection to a Digital Perm device (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) delivering a power of 10W per curler. The hair was thus heated at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and then dried in the open air.

Example 8 (reference)

Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lock of 1 g of natural Japanese hair, previously wound on a curler of 1.7 cm in diameter. At the end of the break time, the hair was rinsed and dried in the open air.

A durability test of the artificial loop was carried out on the locks of hair thus treated in Examples 1 to 6. For this purpose, the locks were kept taut for 5 hours at 40 ° C. and in a relative humidity of 100%. . The behavior of the loops is evaluated by comparing the crimp before and after the test. Reduction Process of the invention Fixation curling Durability of the loop Example 1 Composition 1 15 min. 90 ° C 30 min. Composition 3 5 min. ++ ++ Example 2 Composition 1 15 min. - Composition 3 5 min. - - Example 3 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C 30 min. Composition 3 5 min. + + Example 4 Composition 2 15 min. - Composition 3 5 min. - - Example 5 Composition 1 15 min. 90 ° C 30 min. - ++ ++ Example 6 Composition 1 15 min. - - - - Example 7 Composition 2 15 min. 90 ° C 30 min. - + + Example 8 Composition 2 15 min. - - - - ++: Very high loop efficiency
+: Good loop performance
-: Poor loop efficiency
-: Very low yield of loops

Claims (11)

1. Process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising:

   a) a step of placing the keratin fibres under mechanical tension by rolling them up on curlers so as to form curls,

   b) a step of applying a reducing composition to the keratin fibres,

   c) an optional step of rinsing the said fibres, and then

   e) a step of heating the said fibres at a constant temperature, to within 2°C or 3°C, of between 45 and 250°C for a period of between 1 minute and 2 hours, and then

   f) an optional step of fixing by oxidation after removing the covering means,

   characterized in that it comprises, before the heating step e), a step d) of placing individual means for covering the said curlers above each curler to form closed spaces above the hair,
   and in that at least one of the said curlers and of the said one or more covering means includes one or more heating means.
2. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the closed space comprises open regions, whose surface area is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the covering means.
3. Process according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the temperature of the keratin fibres in step e) is measured using a thermometric probe, placed on a hair, and more advantageously on a portion of hair that forms the final roll on the curler.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the probe is placed on any hair.
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a covering means comprising one or more heat-insulating materials and even more advantageously formed solely from heat-insulating materials is used.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heating means is adjusted so that the temperature detected on the hair is greater than or equal to 70°C, better still greater than or equal to 75°C and less than 150°C, and preferably less than 100°C.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that heating by electrical resistance is used in step (e).
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a covering means that is impermeable to the composition of step (b) is used in step (d).
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the covering means is placed less than 20 mm, better still less than 10 mm and better still less than 5 mm from the hair forming the final roll on each curler, in step (d).
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in step (d), the closed space forms a condensation cage of the reducing composition applied in step (b).
11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in step b), a reducing composition in which the reducing agent(s) represent 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition is used.