EP2134313A2

EP2134313A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a fine powder

Info

Publication number: EP2134313A2
Application number: EP08788180A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Karine Loyen
Original assignee: Arkema France SA
Current assignee: Arkema France SA
Priority date: 2007-04-12
Filing date: 2008-04-14
Publication date: 2009-12-23
Also published as: CN101677915A; WO2008145889A3; BRPI0810537B1; KR101516444B1; WO2008145889A2; BRPI0810537A2; JP2010523631A; CN101677915B; US20100215701A1; MX2009011000A; RU2009141710A; US10463889B2; FR2914856A1; FR2914856B1; KR20100016340A; JP5551580B2; MX336952B; AU2008257296A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions used in the care and makeup field. This composition mainly comprising a continuous aqueous phase, a fatty phase and a pulverulent phase of fine and porous copolyamide powder, is in the form of creamy, liquid or gelled compositions. It is in particular an emulsion, but this may also be a two-phase formulation or composition in which the fatty and aqueous phases are separated. The invention more particularly relates to care and/or makeup cosmetic compositions that have a continuous aqueous phase in the case of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FINE POWDER

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions used in the field of care and makeup. This composition mainly comprising a continuous aqueous phase, a fat phase and a pulverulent phase of copolyamide powder, which is fine and porous, is in the form of creamy, liquid, gelled compositions. It is in particular an emulsion, but it can also be a biphasic formulation or composition in which the fatty and aqueous phases are separated. The invention relates more particularly to cosmetic compositions for care and / or makeup having a continuous aqueous phase in the case of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The use of surfactants, thickeners, and more generally surfactants, in the emulsion-type cosmetic compositions according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion from one phase to the other. In the compositions according to the invention, it is also possible to have additives such as preservatives and perfumes, but also cosmetic active agents such as moisturizers (polyols), anti-UV agents, anti-wrinkles, self-tanners, film-forming agents and antioxidants. many others.

The invention also relates to a process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hairs of a human being, including the application of the composition according to the invention on keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention may be a make-up and / or skincare composition for keratinous substances, in particular a facial care composition (such as, for example, a moisturizing cream or fluid, anti-wrinkle, and / or or makeup remover ..., but also a two-phase moisturizing and / or make-up removing lotion), a body care composition (such as a moisturizing, slimming composition), a water-resistant sunscreen composition ("waterproof" "In English terminology) or non-water resistant, a makeup composition of the skin, such as a foundation, an eyeshadow, a mascaras, a blusher, a concealer, a product body makeup.

The compositions of the continuous aqueous phase type have numerous cosmetic and galenical advantages. They are particularly inexpensive and comfortable to use since they do not have a greasy feel. However, their disadvantage is that they have a consistency too close to the consistency of water to be attractive to consumers and present difficulties in the application. In addition, after the disappearance of the feeling of moisture on the skin, they do not improve comfort, care or the visual appearance of the skin (no powdery appearance for example).

These problems can be solved by adding thickeners or polyols which will give consistency to the formulations. However, this type of product often makes the formulations difficult to apply because of the tacky or sticky effect due to the presence of polyols. In addition, these additives leave a brilliant effect on the skin after application and can have occlusive effects on the pores of the skin.

In EP 1582194, there is described a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid base, cream or powder, a perfume and a powder formed of spherical, cylindrical or dumbbell-shaped polyamide particles (abbreviated PA). These particles are porous, have an average diameter of 1 to 30 μm, a specific surface area of 5 m ² / g or more, an absorption of linseed oil of 200 ml / 100 g or more, a crystallinity of 40% or more and a ratio of the average volume diameter to the number average diameter of 1.0 to 1.5. The homopolyamide powder 12 or 6 of these compositions causes a light-diffusing effect on the surface of the skin and has a high absorption capacity of the sebum, which effectively reduces the abnormal reflection of the light produced on the skin. skin at the time of application of said compositions on the skin.

Furthermore, in said document EP1582194, an example shows that the homopolyamide powders 6, manufactured as described in the text, confer sensory properties of the type of feeling of richness at the time of application that are superior to those of homopolyamide powders. , when introduced into a foundation.

However, we have found, after research, that the polyamide powders described in this prior art, do not solve the problems encountered for compositions in a continuous aqueous phase: in fact, the homopolyamide powders 6, if they they increase the consistency of the formulations in a continuous aqueous phase, giving the user the feeling of richness that he expects at the time of application, they do not lead, after the application of the formulation, to a soft touch. Conversely, homopolyamide 12 powders have practically no effect on the consistency of continuous aqueous phase formulations. These retain, despite the addition of polyamide powder, the consistency of water very little appreciated by users. On the other hand, the touch left on the skin after application is very soft.

We have now discovered that by using copolyamide powders it was possible to prepare compositions in continuous aqueous phases imparting a feeling of richness to said composition, expected by the users, and leaving, after application, a soft powdery touch.

The subject of the invention is a composition which comprises (i) an aqueous phase, (ii) a fatty phase and (iii) a pulverulent phase comprising a copolyamide powder resulting from the polymerization of at least two different monomers described below and optionally other compounds defined below. This composition may be a continuous aqueous phase emulsion (oil in water) or a biphasic composition with a separate aqueous phase and a fatty phase.

The continuous aqueous phase according to the invention may comprise thickeners, emollients, humectants (such as polyols) and / or moisturizers.

The fatty phase according to the invention may comprise solid or liquid fatty substances of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin. There may be mentioned, for example, esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, hydrocarbons essentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly nitrogen and oxygen atoms. Mention may also be made of silicone oils and fluorinated oils.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that the powder particles have a mean diameter ranging from 1 μm to 200 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, even more preferably from 1 to 50 μm, even more advantageously from 1 μm to 1 μm. at 20 μm, a specific surface area of between 1 and 25 m ² / g and a spheroidal shape.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that it comprises (% by weight relative to the total composition):

59.9 to 98.9%, preferably 69 to 95% of an aqueous phase; 0.1 to 30%, reference 1 to 20% of the powder phase of CoPA powder; and

• 40 to 1% of a fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises from 1 to 99% (% by weight relative to the total composition) of polyols, preferably from 10 to 60%.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, film-forming polymers, thickeners, radiation blockers ultra violet, vitamins, dyestuffs, emulsion stabilizers, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that it is a moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and / or makeup-removing facial cream or fluid, a cream or a moisturizing and / or slimming body care fluid, a cream water resistant or non-water resistant, foundation, eye shadow, mascara, blush, concealer or body make-up product, two-phase lotion, moisturizing or make-up remover.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition for producing a make-up and / or skin care product conferring on the skin giving the skin a soft touch and a matte, powdery appearance after application to said skin. skin.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising the application to these materials of a composition as described above. According to one embodiment, the use of the fine and porous powder is characterized in that the powder particles have a mean diameter ranging from 5 to 20 μm.

According to one embodiment, the use of the fine and porous powder is characterized in that the powder particles have a spheroidal shape.

The invention will now be described in more detail. POWDER

As regards the copolyamide powder (abbreviated CoPA powder), it is meant the condensation products of at least two different monomers chosen from:

amino acid type monomers; - Lactam type monomers having from 3 to 12 carbon atoms on the main ring and may be substituted;

monomers resulting from the reaction between an aliphatic diamine having 6 to 12 carbon atoms and a dicarboxylic acid having from 4 to 18 carbon atoms; and their mixtures with monomers with a different carbon number in the case of mixtures between an amino acid monomer and a lactam monomer.

By way of example of lactams, mention may be made of those having from 3 to 12 carbon atoms on the main ring and which may be substituted. Examples that may be mentioned include β, β-dimethylpropriolactam, α, α-dimethylpropriolactam, amylolactam, caprolactam, capryllactam, oenantholactam, 2-pyrrolidone and lauryllactam.

As an example of a dicarboxylic acid, there may be mentioned acids having between 4 and 18 carbon atoms of carbon. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, isophthalic acid, butanedioic acid, 1,4-cyclohexyldicarboxylic acid, terephthalic acid, sodium or lithium salt of sulphoisophthalic acid, dimerized fatty acids (these dimerized fatty acids have a dimer content of at least 98% and are preferably hydrogenated) and dodecanedioic acid HOOC- (CH2) io ~ COOH.

As an example of a diamine, it can be an aliphatic diamine having from 6 to 12 atoms, it can be arylic and / or saturated cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexamethylenediamine, piperazine, tetramethylene diamine, octamethylene diamine, decamethylene diamine, dodecamethylenediamine, 1,5 diaminohexane and 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,6. Diamino-hexane, diamine polyols, isophorone diamine (IPD), methyl pentamethylenediamine (MPDM), bis (aminocyclohexyl) methane (BACM), bis (3-methyl-4-aminocyclohexyl) methane (BMACM), methaxylyenediamine, bis-p-aminocyclohexylmethane and trimethylhexamethylenediamine. In the case of a synthesis of CoPA from anionic lactams, the method consists in suspending the lactam in an organic liquid or in a solution in a solvent and in carrying out an anionic polymerization which makes it possible to directly obtain CoPA powder which separates itself from the liquid medium as it is formed. The method of anionic polymerization of lactams is based essentially on the use of a catalyst such as sodium or one of its compounds such as sodium hydride or sodium methoxide and an activator such as lactam-N- carboxyanilides, isocyanates, carbodi-imides, cyanimides, acyl-lactams, triazines, ureas, imides-N-substituted and esters, among others, optionally in the presence of a finely divided mineral or organic filler having a role of crystallization nucleus such as PA powder (for example ORGASOL® powder), silica, talc and in the presence of an N, N'-alkylenebisamide, more particularly N, N'ethylene bis stearamide, N, N'-ethylene bis oleamide, N, N'-ethylene bis palmitamide, gadoleamide, cetoleamide and erucamide, N, N'-dioleyldipamide and N, N'diérucylamide. The process is described in patents EP192515 and EP303530.

Copolyamides resulting from the condensation of at least two alpha omega aminocarboxylic acids or two lactams or a lactam and an alpha omega aminocarboxylic acid may be mentioned. As alpha-omega amino acids, there may be mentioned aminocaproic acid, amino-7-heptanoic acid, amino-11-undecanoic acid and amino-12-dodecanoic acid. Mention may also be made of the copolyamides resulting from the condensation of at least one alpha omega aminocarboxylic acid (or a lactam), at least one diamine and at least one dicarboxylic acid. Mention may also be made of the copolyamides resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic diamine with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and at least one other monomer chosen from aliphatic diamines different from the preceding one and the aliphatic diacids different from the preceding one.

By way of examples of copolyamides, mention may be made of copolymers of caprolactam and lauryl lactam (PA 6/12), copolymers of caprolactam, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6/12 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, amino undecanoic acid, azelaic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-9 / 1 1/12), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, 1-undecanoic amino acid, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-6) 1/1), copolymers of lauryl lactam, azelaic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6-9 / 12), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and caprolactam (PA4 / 6), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and lauryllactam (PA4 / 12), copolymers of caprolactam and 1-undecanoic amino acid (PA6 / 11), copolymers of lauryllactam and capryllactam (PA12 / 8), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and amino undecanoic acid (PA11 / 4), copolymers of carolactam and capryllactam (PA8 / 6), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and capryllactam (PA8 / 4), copolymers of lauryllactam and capryllactam (PA12 / 8).

Mixtures of polyamide and / or copolyamide can be used. These are, for example, mixtures of aliphatic polyamides and semi-aromatic polyamides and mixtures of aliphatic polyamides and cycloaliphatic polyamides.

The powders can be made by any means, dissolved and precipitated in an alcohol. Advantageously, polymerization is produced in a solvent, the powders being insoluble in this solvent (anionic polymerization defined above). The method described in EP192515 and EP303530 may be mentioned.

It is also possible to use copolyesteramide powders resulting from the condensation of (the total being 100%):

1 to 98 mol% of a lactam,

1 to 98 mol% of a lactone, and optionally

1 to 98 mol% of another lactam different from the previous one. The lactams that can be used to make the copolyesteramides are the same as those mentioned above. Caprolactam and lauryllactam are advantageously used. As examples of lactones, there may be mentioned caprolactone, valerolactone and butyrolactone. Caprolactone is advantageously used.

In the case of a copolyesteramide, caprolactam, lauryllactam and caprolactone are advantageously used in the following proportions (mol%): 30-46%, 30-46% and 8-40% (the total being 100% ).

The process for the preparation of these copolyesteramide powders by anionic polymerization is described in EP1 172396. FAT PHASE

A fatty phase may contain a liquid fatty phase and possibly a solid fatty phase (such as waxes). The liquid fatty phase may contain one or more liquid oils at room temperature (25 ° C), these oils are volatile or not. The liquid fatty phase is formed of hydrocarbon oils or possibly of silicone oils.

The fatty phase comprises one or more oils, that is, immiscible fatty substances with water. These volatile or non-volatile oils are of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin and may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

It may contain one or more liquid oils at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), preferably at least one non-volatile liquid oil. The term "nonvolatile liquid oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, non-zero, less than or equal to 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin. Fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isostearyl isotridecyl isostearate isononoate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, succinate 2 diethyl hexyl, diisostearyl malate, triisostearate of glycerine or triglycerine, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, higher fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, avocado oil, camellias, macadamia nut oil, turtle oil, mink oil, soybean oil, seed oil grapes, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, oil olive, hexyl laurate and mixtures thereof. They may be mineral oils: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof.

Optionally, the composition comprises non-volatile silicone oils such as dimethylsiloxanes.

The liquid fatty phase may also optionally comprise volatile oils. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil has in particular a vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) greater than 0.01 and less than or equal to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and preferably ranging from 0.05 to 300 mmHg (6.65 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

The volatile oils are for example chosen from silicone oils which contribute to reducing the fat effect of continuous fat phase formulations. Mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm ² / s and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. carbon. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular actamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

They are more particularly from the family of polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes: cyclomethicone (DC 345 from Dow Corning), caprylyl methicone, cyclopentasiloxane (DC245 from Dow Corning).

Can also be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched alkanes, C ₈ to C ₆ isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) C ₈ to C _6, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, branched esters, C ₈ to C ₆ such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase contains water. The latter may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water, LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The aqueous phase may also comprise constituents which are miscible with water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as glycols added for their humectant properties: glycerol, propylene glycol and butylene. glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono, di or triethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and their mixture.

OTHER COMPOUNDS

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise surfactants (generally lipophilic) of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type facilitating the dispersion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase so as to obtain a stable oil / water emulsion, additives such as preservatives (generally hydrophilic), perfumes (generally lipophilic), different fillers of the powder according to the invention, dyestuffs (soluble dyes, pigments), thickeners (waxes, gelling agents), emulsion stabilizers (usually hydrophilic), chelators (usually hydrophilic).

The surfactants may be of ester type such as sorbitan derivatives (ex sorbitan sesquiisostearate), methyl glucose isostearate. They can be of polymeric types such as PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer. They may also be silicone surfactants suitable for the emulsification of silicone oils: it is for example dimethicone copolyols such as PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC5225C.

The thickeners may for example be soluble in the fatty phase to adjust its consistency or contribute to the stability of the composition: example candellila wax, gums or silicone elastomers (DC141 1 and DC9040 from Dow Corning).

Preservatives are mixtures of derivatives of paraben and / or phenoxyethanol.

For example, ethylene diamine tetraAcetic (EDTA) may be mentioned as a chelating agent.

It may also comprise cosmetic active agents that provide an improvement in the human keratin materials mentioned above. The cosmetic active agents include moisturizers (generally hydrophilic) such as polyols, UV radiation blockers such as organic filters (generally lipophilic) or mineral particles such as TiO2, ZnO surface-treated or non-surface treated, anti-wrinkles (generally hydrophilic) , self-tanners (generally hydrophilic), film-forming agents (lipophilic or hydrophilic depending on their nature), antioxidants (lipophilic or hydrophilic depending on their nature).

As mineral filters, dispersions of ZnO and TiO 2 may be mentioned in silicone oil mixtures.

The aqueous phase preferably comprises 1 to 99% by weight of polyols relative to the total aqueous phase, preferably 10 to 60%.

In addition, it may comprise 0.5 to 10%, preferably 3 to 5% of surfactants, 0.01 to 2% of additives, 0.005 to 10% of cosmetic active ingredients relative to the total composition.

The characteristics of the CoPA powders of the composition, object of the invention are:

The mean diameter of the particles is from 0.1 to 100 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 50 μm, even more advantageously from 1 to 20 μm.

• narrow particle size distribution. The particle size distribution of the powders is determined according to the usual techniques, for example using a Coulter Multisizer II granulometer according to the ISO 13319 standard. From the particle size distribution, it is possible to determine the mean diameter as well as the particle size dispersion. (standard deviation) which measures the tightening of the distribution. This is one of the advantages of the described method that allow obtain a narrow distribution with a standard deviation of between 1 and 3 μm, or often less than 2 μm;

The shape of the particles advantageously spheroidal, that is to say in the form of spheroid which means: solid approximately spherical.

The characteristics listed above contribute greatly to the soft touch in the continuous aqueous phase systems and to obtaining after application of the matt and powdered appearance of the composition.

These characteristics also confer on the powders which are the subject of the invention the property of reducing the appearance of wrinkles or defects on the surface of the skin.

The examples in TABLES 1 to 4 below are defined as follows:

Powder 1: Orgasol®2002EXD NAT COS, ie PA12 powder, average particle diameter 10 μm, SSA 4 +/- 1, 5 m ² / g, flax oil content of 79 g / 100 g, obtained according to the process described in EP192515.

Powder 2: ORGASOL® seeded PA12 / PA6 copolyamide powder, 80/20 particle size 10 μm, SSA 9.5 +/- 1 m ² / g ,.

2800 ml of solvent are introduced into the reactor maintained under nitrogen, followed successively by 108 g of caprolactam, 679 g of dry lauryl lactam, 14.4 g of EBS and 1 12 g of ORGASOL® 2001 UD NAT1 finely divided. After stirring at 300 rpm, the mixture is gradually heated to 110 ° C. and 290 ml of solvent are then distilled off under vacuum in order to azeotrope traces of water that may be present.

After returning to atmospheric pressure, the anionic catalyst, 7.2 g of sodium hydride at 60% purity in oil, are rapidly introduced under nitrogen and the stirring is increased to 720 r / min under nitrogen at 110 ° C for 30 minutes.

Then, the temperature is brought to 96 ° C. and, thanks to a small dosing pump, a continuous injection into the reaction medium of the chosen activator, namely stearyl isocyanate (32.9 g filled to 314 g with solvent), according to the following schedule:

> 10 g / h of isocyanate solution for 300 minutes;

> 88 g / h of isocyanate solution for 180 minutes; Meanwhile the temperature is maintained at 96 ° C for the first 360 minutes, then rose to 110 ° C in 60 minutes and maintained at 110 ° C for a further

2 hours after the end of introduction of the isocyanate.

The polymerization is then complete, the reactor is almost clean. After cooling to 80 ° C, decanting and drying, the particle size of between 2 and 20 microns with the average particle diameter being 11, 8 microns and a SSA 9.3 ^m2 / g without agglomerate.

Powder 3: Orgasol®3502 D NAT1 copolyamide powder PA12 / PA6 (50/50), average particle diameter 20 μm, SSA 2.5 +/- 1 m ² / g. Powder 4: copolyamide powder PA12 / PA6 (50/50), average particle diameter

10 microns, SSA 20 +/- 1 m ² / g, obtained according to the process described in EP192515.

Powder 5: Orqasol®3202D NAT1 copolyamide powder PA12 / PA6 (20/80), average particle diameter 20 μm, SSA 1 +/- 1 m ² / g.

Powder 6: Orgasol® 1002 D NAT COS, polyamide 6 powder, average particle diameter 20 μm, SSA 1 +/- 1 m ² / g.

The composition VOOIN does not include powder.

The percentages below are expressed by weight relative to the total composition. The nature of the compositions comprising the Powders 1 to 6 is defined below for each table.

The effect of the addition of PA powders according to the invention in continuous aqueous phase emulsions was measured by sensory analysis in different types of compositions. Each composition was the subject of a sensory profile study, conducted by a panel of five experts according to the following descriptions:

during the application phase of the product: the wealth, the speed of penetration.

- immediately after application: the shine of the skin, the softness of the skin, the powdery residue left by the composition on the skin.

Each composition is analyzed blind by comparison of all the tests forming a series.

The results are summarized in TABLES 1 to 4. The different criteria were evaluated on a scale from 0 to 8. The value 0 indicates the absence of the designated criterion (for example a sensation of absence of softness); the value 8 indicating a very marked tendency for the chosen criterion (for example a very important sensation of presence of softness). Compositions A to F and Control 1 are oil-in-water type emulsion compositions comprising 5% fat phase corresponding, for example, to light cream compositions.

The process for preparing the compositions below consists in (1) combining and heating at 75 ° C the aqueous phase A, (2) combining and heating at 75 ° C the fat phase B, (3) adding the fat phase B to phase A slowly while stirring vigorously so as to form an emulsion and then (4) cool to room temperature before adding the constituents of phase C with stirring and then the powder (phase D) (except for the control) with gentle stirring .

Control 1: x = 0% of powder. Composition A: x = 3.5% of powder 1. Composition B: x = 3.5% of powder 2. Composition C: x = 3.5% of powder 3. Composition D: x = 3.5% of powder 4. Composition E: x = 3.5% of powder 5. Composition F: x = 3.5% powder 6.

TABLE 1

Compositions G to L and Control 2 of TABLE 2 are compositions of oil-in-water emulsion type comprising 10% fat phase which can correspond for example to moisturizing day creams, so-called rich creams.

The method of preparing the compositions below comprises (1) combining and heating at 75 ° C the aqueous phase A, (2) combining and heating at 75 ° C the fat phase B, (3) adding the fat phase B to phase A slowly while stirring vigorously to form an emulsion and then (4) cool to room temperature before adding the constituents of phase C with stirring and then the powder (phase D) (except for the control) with stirring slowly.

Control 2: x = 0% of powder.

Composition G: x = 3.5% of powder 1.

Composition H: x = 3.5% of powder 2. Composition I: x = 3.5% of powder 3. Composition J: x = 3.5% powder 4. Composition K: x = 3.5% powder 5. Composition L: x = 3.5% powder 6. TABLE 2

The addition of 0.2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, of powders of coPA in an oil-in-water emulsion (type of day cream, moisturizing fluid, body milk, after-shave care, among others) allows to bring richness to the formulations, which is related to the consistency. Furthermore, after application, the use of this copolyamide powder gives the skin a soft feel, much higher than that obtained for pure PA powders. Finally, after application, the formulations leave on the skin a residue of powder which diffuse the light and mask the imperfections. The addition of powder makes it possible to obtain a matt, smooth, natural and powdery appearance.

In particular, in a composition of the control type 1 containing a small proportion of fatty phase, the addition of COPA powder substantially increases the consistency of the cream and allows it to give an impression of richness to the user, without increasing the compounds oily, which could lead to a greasy feeling After application, CoPA powders containing more than 20 mol% of PA 12 give a softer feel and a more pronounced powdery appearance.

In particular, in a composition of the control type 2 containing a proportion of higher fatty phase, the addition of coPA powder substantially increases the consistency of the cream and allows it to give an impression of richness to the user, without increasing the oily compounds which could lead to a feeling of fat. After application, COPA powders containing more than 50% PA12 give a softer feel, a more pronounced powdery residue and a superior smoothing effect. Compositions M to N and Control 3 of TABLE 3 are compositions comprising oil-in-water emulsion type comprising 15.5% fat phase. These compositions correspond, for example, to anti-wrinkle cream formulations,

Control 3: x = 0% of powder.

Composition M: x = 3.5% of powder 1.

Composition N: x = 3.5% of powder 2. The process for preparing the compositions below consists of (1) combining and heating at 75 ° C. the aqueous phase A, (2) combining and heating at 75 ° C. the fatty phase B, (3) adding the fatty phase B to phase A slowly while stirring vigorously to form an emulsion and then (4) add C just behind the emulsion (pH = 6.9), then (5) cool to 60 ° C before adding D, and then (6) ) cool to room temperature before adding the constituents of phase E, then (7) add the powder (phase F) (except for the control) with gentle shaking.

TABLE 3

W

In oil-in-water type emulsion formulations comprising 15.5% fat phase characterized in Table 3, the copolymers provide a much smoother and powdered residue than pure polyamide 12 powders.

Moreover, the smoothing effect of the composition N was measured by the fringe projection method, the principle of which is as follows: the measurement of the cutaneous relief by projection of fringes is carried out at the level of a crow's foot for 20 healthy female subjects.

The technique of fringe projections makes it possible to objectify changes in the cutaneous topography of the crow's feet. The measurements are made by means of an optical system dedicated to the metrology of the surface relief.

This system includes a sensor associated with a projector and a high resolution CCD camera. The average axial and lateral resolutions are of the order of 10 μm.

The analysis of the surface cutaneous topography is performed by calculating the standard parameters of roughness. These parameters are extracted from a surface of 30x40 mm (12 5 cm ² ), expressed in mm. The quantified parameters are on a series of profiles perpendicular to the lines and wrinkles of the region of interest.

For example, the parameter SPt (Maximum amplitude of relief) is extracted. For the crow's feet, the decrease of SPt signifies an attenuation of the main ride. Formulation N led to a reduction of SPt parameters of 4% after application of the product to the crow's feet area and 6% after 2 hours.

This result corresponds to a significant decrease of the roughness parameter SPt

(maximum amplitude of the relief) after 20 minutes of application of the product (-4% on average on the entire panel), confirmed and amplified after 2 hours of application (-6% on average over the entire panel) . This significant variation reflects a deep attenuation of the main crease of the crow's feet.

Compositions O to P and Control 4 of TABLE 4 are oil-in-water emulsion type compositions comprising 26.5% fat phase. These compositions correspond, for example, to sun protection cream formulations with a high degree of protection.

For this type of formulation, an additional description was added in the sensory study, specially adapted for high protection grade solar formulations: this is the white residue, observed after application, due to sunscreens. This description is evaluated at 0 when after application of the formulation, there is no white residue on the skin; it is evaluated at 8 when, after application, a large white residue remains on the skin.

The process for preparing the compositions below consists of (1) combining and heating at 70 ^° C. the aqueous phase A, (2) combining and heating at 70 ^° C. the fatty phase B, (3) adding the fatty phase B to phase A slowly while stirring vigorously to form an emulsifier and then (4) cool to room temperature before adding the constituents of phase C, then (5) phase D with stirring, then (6) the powder (phase E) (except for the control) with gentle shaking.

Control 4: x = 0% powder. Composition O: x = 5% powder 1. Composition P: x = 5% powder 2. TABLE 4

In the oil-in-water emulsion type formulations comprising 26.5% fat phase characterized in Table 4, the copolyamides provide a smoothness and a powdery residue much higher than pure polyamide 12 powders; they decrease more significantly the whitening effect of sunscreens.

Claims

1. A composition comprising (i) an aqueous phase, (ii) a fatty phase and (iii) a pulverulent phase comprising a copolyamide powder derived from the

Polymerizing at least two different monomers, said composition being either an oil-in-water emulsion or a two-phase composition in which the aqueous phase and the fat phase are separated.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the copolyamide powder is chosen from the condensation products of at least two different monomers chosen from:

amino acid type monomers;

- Lactam type monomers having from 3 to 12 carbon atoms on the main ring and may be substituted; Monomers resulting from the reaction between an aliphatic diamine having 6 to 12 carbon atoms and a dicarboxylic acid having from 4 to 18 carbon atoms; and

their mixtures with monomers with a different carbon number in the case of mixtures between an amino acid type monomer and a lactam type monomer. (3.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the lactams are chosen from β, β-dimethylpropriolactam, α, α-dimethylpropriolactam, amylolactam, caprolactam, capryllactam, oenantholactam, 2- pyrrolidone and lauryllactam. Α. 4. The composition as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that the dicarboxylic acid is chosen from adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, isophthalic acid, butanedioic acid, dicarboxylic acid and the like. acid 1,

Cyclohexyldicarboxylic acid, terephthalic acid, sodium or lithium salt of sulphoisophthalic acid, dimerized fatty acids (these dimerized fatty acids have a dimer content of at least 98% and are preferably hydrogenated) and dodecanedioic acid HOOC- (CH2) i Q-COOH.

5. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the diamine is aryl and / or cyclic saturated.

6. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the diamine is chosen from hexamethylenediamine, piperazine, tetramethylenediamine, octamethylene diamine, decamethylene diamine, dodecamethylenediamine, 1,5 diaminohexane, 2, 2,4-trimethyl-1,6-diamino-hexane, diamine polyols, isophorone diamine (IPD), methyl pentamethylenediamine (MPDM), bis (aminocyclohexyl) methane (BACM), bis (3-methyl) 4 aminocyclohexyl) methane (BMACM), methaxylyenediamine, bis-p-aminocyclohexylmethane and trimethylhexamethylenediamine.

7 ^' . Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the amino acids are chosen from alpha omega amino acids.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the alpha-omega amino acids are chosen from aminocaproic acid, amino-7-heptanoic acid, amino-11-undecanoic acid and amino-12-dodecanoic acid.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the copolyamides are chosen from copolymers of caprolactam and lauryl lactam (PA 6/12), copolymers of caprolactam, adipic acid and hexamethylene diamine (PA 6 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6/12 / 6-6), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, amino acid undecanoic acid, azelaic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-9 / 1 1/12), copolymers of caprolactam, lauryl lactam, amino 1 1 undecanoic acid, adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6 / 6-6 / 1 1/12), copolymers of lauryl lactam, azelaic acid and hexamethylenediamine (PA 6-9 / 12), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and caprolactam (PA4 / 6), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and lauryllactam (PA4 / 12), copolymers of caprolactam and amino-11 undecanoic acid (PA6 / 11), copolymers of lauryl lactam and capryllactam (PA12 / 8), copolymers of 2-pyrrolidone and amino undecanoic acid (PA11 / 4), copolymers of carolactam and capryllactam (PA8 / 6), copolymers of 2- pyrrolidone and capryllactam (PA8 / 4), copolymers of lauryllactam and capryllactam (PA12 / 8).

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles of powders of spheroidal shape have a mean diameter ranging from 1 micron to 200 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, even more preferably from 1 to 50 μm, even more advantageously from 1 to 20 μm.

Composition according to Claim 12, characterized in that the powder particles have a specific surface area of between 1 and 25 m ² / g.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises (% by weight relative to the total composition):

59.9 to 98.9%, preferably 69 to 95% aqueous phase;

W • 0.1 to 30%, preferably 1 to 20% of pulverulent phase; and

• 40 to 1% of a fatty phase.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the powder is a copolyesteramide powder resulting from the condensation of (the total being 100%):

1 to 98 mol% of a lactam,

1 to 98 mol% of a lactone, and optionally

1 to 98 mol% of another lactam different from the previous one. 0

14. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the lactone is chosen from caprolactone, valerolactone and butyrolactone.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises from 1 to 99% by weight of polyols relative to the total aqueous phase, preferably 10 to 60% by weight.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises (% by weight relative to the total composition):

From 0.5 to 10%, preferably 3 to 5% of surfactants; 0 • from 0.01 to 2% of additives; and

• from 0.005 to 10% of cosmetic assets.

17. Composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the additives are chosen from preservatives, perfumes, different fillers of the copolyamide powder, dyestuffs, thickeners, emulsion stabilizers and chelators.

18. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the cosmetic active agents are chosen from moisturizers, UV radiation blockers, anti-wrinkles, self-tanners, film-forming agents and antioxidants.

19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cream or a moisturizing facial treatment fluid, anti-wrinkle and / or makeup remover,

W a moisturizing and / or slimming cream or body care fluid, a water-resistant or non-water-resistant sun cream, a foundation, an eyeshadow, a mascara, a blush, a concealer or a body make-up product, a biphasic lotion, moisturizing or cleansing.

20. Use of a composition according to one of the preceding claims to make a makeup product and / or skin care giving the skin a soft touch and a matte and powdery appearance after application to said skin.

21. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising the application to these materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 19. 0

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