EP1978918A1 - Méthode d'exfoliation de la peau et trousse cosmétique - Google Patents

Méthode d'exfoliation de la peau et trousse cosmétique

Info

Publication number
EP1978918A1
EP1978918A1 EP05826672A EP05826672A EP1978918A1 EP 1978918 A1 EP1978918 A1 EP 1978918A1 EP 05826672 A EP05826672 A EP 05826672A EP 05826672 A EP05826672 A EP 05826672A EP 1978918 A1 EP1978918 A1 EP 1978918A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
alum
skin
soap
kit according
potassium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05826672A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Pietro Poidomani
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Oldermout Srl
Original Assignee
Oldermout Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Oldermout Srl filed Critical Oldermout Srl
Publication of EP1978918A1 publication Critical patent/EP1978918A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a cosmetic method and kit to treat skin. More particularly, the invention refers to a cosmetic method to promote exfoliation of outer layers of human epidermis, and to a kit of products suitable to carry out said method.
  • keratinized cells forming the stratum corneum of the epidermis are subject to continuous desquamation and are replaced by cells deriving from the basal layer of the epidermis by mitotic activity. The elements produced therein are in turn pushed toward the outer and more superficial layers by the formation of new cells underneath. While migrating to the surface, the cells of the epidermis produce keratin that accumulates within them until most of the metabolically active cytoplasm is replaced. Cells die, lose their nucleus and cytoplasmic organs, and eventually detach from epithelium as small scales that are lifeless cell residues.
  • Such series of changes called cytomorphosis of the malpighian cells, requires from 15 to 30 days, depending on the part of the body and other factors.
  • cytomorphosis of the malpighian cells requires from 15 to 30 days, depending on the part of the body and other factors.
  • cell migration and replacement at the surface of the epidermis takes place in a perfect way, so that the skin is kept smooth and fresh.
  • accumulation of dead cells at the surface of epidermis occurs, causing irregular appearance and spots that are particularly visible in the area of face.
  • Detachment or desquamation of accumulations of dead cells also known as exfoliation, can be improved by using exfoliating products and/or processes, which can promote the detachment of such dead cells and impart a cleaner and better looking appearance to skin.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a kit of products ready to be used for carrying out a method to clean and exfoliate skin.
  • a method to cosmetically treat skin characterized by comprising the following steps: a) apply a soap onto the skin to be treated, in the presence of water; b) apply an effective amount of a dermatologically acceptable alum on said skin; c) rub said skin; d) rinse said skin.
  • An additional aspect of the invention is represented by a kit of products to carry out said method, characterized by comprising a soap and a dermatologically acceptable alum as active principles, said soap and said dermatologically acceptable alum being physically separated to allow for a sequential application onto the skin to be treated.
  • soaps for personal hygiene are prepared from high quality fats, such as coconut oil, palm oil, and olive oil, which have a fat acids content of up to about 80%.
  • Such soaps may contain free fat acids, fat alcohols, glycerin, lanolin, cocoa-butter, almond-oil, wheat germ oil, and ethanolamines of fat acids, typically in amount from 1 and 10% by weight.
  • ingredients that may be present are cosmetic dyes, essential oils, perfumes, polish agents such as titanium dioxide, honey, herb or camomile extracts, milk powder, abrasive agents, antioxidants, optical whiteners, chelating agents, preservatives and the like.
  • Soaps can be hard (sodium salts) or soft (potassium salts), and can be sold in solid form (pieces or flakes), in semi-solid form (paste, cream, emulsion) and in liquid form (potassium salts with a fat acids content of 10-15%).
  • alum a double sulfate of aluminum and of a monovalent metal or ion M, of general formula M 2 SO 4 • A1 2 (SO 4 ) 3 • nH 2 O, wherein M is an ion deriving from an alkali metal, silver or ammonium, provided that such alum be dermatologically acceptable, that is does not show harmful or undesired effects upon contact with human skin.
  • Potassium alum also known as potash alum or simply "alum" is a substance that crystallizes as regular octahedron and is very soluble in water (at 5O 0 C 100 g of water dissolve up to 44,11 g of potassium alum).
  • the formula of potassium alum is K 2 SO 4 • A1 2 (SO 4 )3 • 24H 2 O. Potassium alum has several practical applications, and it is known also as hemoastringent.
  • alum can be used in the form of a solid bar made of compressed crystals or as a powder of crystals or as a water solution of crystals.
  • solid bar it can be advantageously fixed to an inert support, for easy application.
  • a powder of crystals it can be applied as such or sprayed onto the skin by means of a spray device or applied as powder contained in a flexible support such as a sponge, a cloth, a brush or the like, or as a water solution.
  • the cosmetic method for treating the skin according to the invention comprises the steps of: a) apply a soap onto the skin to be treated, in the presence of water; b) apply an effective amount of a dermatologically acceptable alum on said skin treated with said soap; c) rub said skin; d) rinse said skin.
  • Step a) typically comprises the formation of a foam, on which alum is applied according to step b).
  • Step c) comprises rubbing the skin, and is the step during which the biochemical action of the soap + alum composition combined with the mechanical action of rubbing brings about an effective cosmetic treatment of skin.
  • Rubbing step c) is carried out in a time frame of from few seconds to few dozens of seconds, preferably from 5 to 30 seconds, more preferably from 10 to 15 seconds.
  • foam formed during step a) disappears and solid particles are formed, which particles contain exfoliated keratinized epithelial cells mixed with soap. Such particles are removed by rinsing according to step d), with the final result that the skin is clean and aesthetically improved.
  • step b) of the method of the invention corresponds to the formation in situ of a facial mask, which is formed by protecting eyes and other sensitive areas, as usual in cosmetic treatments.
  • the cosmetic treatment according to the invention can be carried out on any skin area, including the very sensitive ones.
  • the method is particularly advantageous and effective in those areas of skin where thick or horny residues of keratinized cells are present.
  • the method of the invention can advantageously be carried out by using a kit in which the active principles consisting of soap and alum are provided in a form and amount suitable for a combined sequential application.
  • the kit may contain also additional cosmetic products, such as moisturizing creams, perfumes or the like, to be applied on the skin before or after the cosmetic method described above.
  • Active principle 1 Bar of sodium soap Marseille type with 76% of fat acids.
  • Active principle 2 Rectangular bar of potassium alum sold by CO. MA. S.n.c, Viareggio,
  • the soaped part was then rubbed with a bar of potassium alum. Rubbing was then continued for about 15 seconds. It was observed that the foam disappeared. The skin was then rinsed with plenty of water.
  • Active principle 1 Bar of sodium soap Marseille type with 76% of fat acids.
  • Active principle 2 Commercial Potassium alum in powder form contained in a spray dispenser.
  • a facial mask was formed by soaping a face of a person until a persistent foam was formed, followed by a spray application of potassium alum in powder form on the soaped skin. The facial mask was then rubbed onto the skin with a wet sponge for 10 seconds. It was observed that the foam disappeared, then the mask was removed by rinsing with a cloth soaked in water.
  • Active principle 1 liquid potassium soap with 14% of fat acids.
  • Active principle 2 Commercial Potassium alum in water solution form contained in a spray dispenser.
  • a facial mask was formed by soaping a face of a person until a persistent foam was formed, followed by a spray application of potassium alum in powder form on the soaped skin. The treated area was then manually rubbed for 30 seconds. It was observed that the foam disappeared, then the mask was removed by rinsing with water.
  • active principle 1 Bar of sodium soap Marseille type with 76% of fat acids, formation of a layer of foam on hands and subsequent removal by rinsing.
  • Active principle 1 Anionic surfactant sodium lauril sulfate, aqueous solution 10%.
  • Active principle 2 Commercial potassium alum, bar as in example 1.
  • a facial mask was formed by using sodium lauril sulfate until a foam is formed, then the treated area was rubbed with a bar of potassium alum. The mask was let in situ for 30 seconds, then it was removed by rinsing with water.
  • the products and the cosmetic method to treat skin according to the invention were further investigated by means of an in vitro evaluation of the exfoliating and keratolytic effect on human 3D epidermis.
  • the prediction of the exfoliating/keratolytic potential of tested products was made through cytotoxicity testing (MTT assay) on in vitro reconstituted human 3D skin, and through the morphological evaluation of the stratum corneum in histological sections .
  • Cosmetic products are directly applied onto the human skin. Consequently, they should exhibit no or very low toxicity to the cells that form the skin. This is even more true for products to be applied in very sensitive areas, as the eye contour.
  • the assays performed in this investigation were carried out on a three-dimensional reconstructed human skin model, formed by human epidermal keratinocytes with a well- differentiated stratum corneum.
  • This cell culture model is highly representative of the target tissue in vivo and it can be expected that biological effects of topical products will be predictive in these systems.
  • the objectives of these assays were to assess quantitatively the effects of the test materials and of the controls on skin cell survival (MTT assay), and qualitatively on the stratum corneum exfoliation.
  • the tested sample was a composition of a neutral soap and of potassium alum crystals applied together and with water on the skin for a superficial exfoliating effect. Products were tested at high concentration separately and together on the artificial skin for 20 minutes to simulate what happens in vivo. As controls, a strong keratolytic agent as glycolic acid at a concentration of 10 % and 30% for 20 minutes were used. A further control, as irritating agent, was a solution of 0.5% by weight of sodium laurel sulphate (SLS) applied for 20 minutes too.
  • SLS sodium laurel sulphate
  • the soap was applied after suspension in water at 10% by weight. Crystals of alum were dissolved in water at a concentration of 50% by weight. The products were applied together, at the same final concentrations as above. No meaningful differences were detected if the products were applied in a different sequence, as they immediately mix together and the final effect is due to the mix. Glycolic acid was tested dissolved in water at 10 and 30% separately.
  • the cosmetic sample was tested as such, without further dilution and after stirring the suspension.
  • 3D epidermis models were purchased from Skinethic (Nice, France) and human keratinocytes were cultured up to the 16th day in a serum-free defined medium.
  • the MTT assay is simple, accurate and generates reproducible results.
  • the key component is
  • MTT-medium was prepared as described by Mossman (Mossman, T. (1993). Rapid colorimetric assay for cellular growth and survival: application to proliferation and cytotoxicity assays. J. Immunol. Methods 65:55-63). After exposure of the cells to the test material, the cells were washed with PBS and exposed to the MTT-medium at 37 0 C. At the end of the incubation period, the MTT-medium was removed and the cells received the MTT
  • Solubilization Solution The plate was shaken on a rotatory plate shaker for 20-30 minutes, ensuring that all the crystals had dissolved from the cells and had formed a homogeneous solution. The absorbance was measured as described with background elimination.
  • the skin samples After exposure to products and controls, the skin samples underwent dehydration through passages in growing concentrations of alcohol, and then embedded in paraffin for slices cut.
  • Average cell survival after the exposure (20 minutes) was expressed as a percentage of non treated negative control values.
  • the condition of use was simulated to allow a judgement on the specific toxic effect towards keratinocytes (Table 2).
  • the tested products applied as described above, had a much lower cytotoxic/irritating effect than a conventional keratolytic agent as glycolic acid.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L’invention concerne une méthode pour un traitement cosmétique de la peau, caractérisée par les étapes : a) d’application d’un savon sur la peau à traiter, en présence d'eau ; b) d’application d’une quantité efficace d'un alun dermatologiquement acceptable sur ladite peau ; c) de frottement de ladite peau ; d) de rinçage de ladite peau. Une trousse de produits appropriés pour réaliser la méthode ci-dessus est aussi décrite.
EP05826672A 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Méthode d'exfoliation de la peau et trousse cosmétique Withdrawn EP1978918A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2005/056973 WO2007071283A1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Méthode d'exfoliation de la peau et trousse cosmétique

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1978918A1 true EP1978918A1 (fr) 2008-10-15

Family

ID=36677193

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05826672A Withdrawn EP1978918A1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Méthode d'exfoliation de la peau et trousse cosmétique

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1978918A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2007071283A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009038444A1 (fr) * 2007-09-19 2009-03-26 Adil Hssine Creme bio anti-rides

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB220506A (en) * 1923-10-29 1924-08-21 Arnolphe Kirschen Improvements in self-soaping lathering apparatus
AT117732B (de) * 1929-01-18 1930-05-10 Isak Dr Wahrhaftig Einseifvorrichtung.
DE1901761U (de) * 1964-03-11 1964-10-08 Lieselotte Schophoff Rasiermittelbehaeltnis mit halterung fuer rasierstein.

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB191515495A (en) * 1915-03-26 1916-10-26 Joseph Walwyn White An Improved Mixture for use in Shaving or as a Healing Agent.
FR2238473A1 (en) * 1973-07-26 1975-02-21 Olivier Pierre Alum-contg skin tonic compsn - useful as an after-shave, astringent or wrinkle treatment
FR2477414A1 (fr) * 1980-03-04 1981-09-11 Oreal Procede de nettoyage de la peau par application d'une mousse et compositions pour le mettre en oeuvre
FR2552099B1 (fr) * 1983-09-15 1986-09-26 Roussel Uclaf Nouveau savon gommant corporel
RU2028796C1 (ru) * 1993-09-09 1995-02-20 Фирма "Комитэкс" Крем-маска
EP2324887A1 (fr) * 2002-10-25 2011-05-25 Shiseido Company, Limited Composition de désodorisant pour la peau

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB220506A (en) * 1923-10-29 1924-08-21 Arnolphe Kirschen Improvements in self-soaping lathering apparatus
AT117732B (de) * 1929-01-18 1930-05-10 Isak Dr Wahrhaftig Einseifvorrichtung.
DE1901761U (de) * 1964-03-11 1964-10-08 Lieselotte Schophoff Rasiermittelbehaeltnis mit halterung fuer rasierstein.

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"A Shave a Day! - How to Shave for Men", 29 December 1999 (1999-12-29), XP055028636, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.beautycare.com/cgi-bin/trends/viewnews.cgi?newsid946511754,71889> [retrieved on 20120531] *
"Wet Shaving, or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Blade", 21 September 2005 (2005-09-21), pages 1 - 4, XP055028643, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://halffull.org/2005/09/21/wet-shaving-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-blade/ 1 of> [retrieved on 20120531] *
See also references of WO2007071283A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007071283A1 (fr) 2007-06-28

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