EP1904022A1

EP1904022A1 - O/w emulsions comprising polysaccharides and hydrophobic modified polyols

Info

Publication number: EP1904022A1
Application number: EP06754398A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Paula Barreleiro; Matthias Hloucha; Kerstin Dorn; Thorsten Knappe; René SCHEFFLER; Dirk Hentrich
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2005-06-21
Filing date: 2006-06-16
Publication date: 2008-04-02
Also published as: WO2006136332A1

Abstract

The invention relates to O/W emulsions comprising polysaccharides and hydrophobic modified polyols, in particular those compositions which form highly viscous O/W emulsions at room temperature with low skin irritation and the use of said compositions for the modeling of hair.

Description

O / W emulsions with polysaccharides and hydrophobically modified polyols

The present invention relates to compositions comprising polysaccharides and hydrophobically modified polyols, in particular those compositions which form high-viscosity O / W emulsions with low skin irritation at room temperature, and to the use of these compositions for modeling hair.

In order to obtain cosmetic agents with desirable properties, emulsifiers must be added to them as a rule. The emulsifiers make it possible to stabilize emulsions of hydrophobic and hydrophilic components. In order to produce a stable emulsion, it is generally necessary to add to the formulations relatively high concentrations of emulsifiers. For example, hair wax products of liquid or cream-like consistency containing up to more than 20% by weight of emulsifiers are described in EP1386601.

A problem here is that when using these products due to the high concentration of emulsifiers, especially when using short-chain emulsifiers, can cause skin irritation.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic compositions of waxy consistency, in particular a gel wax, which lead to lower skin irritations than conventionally used cosmetic agents of waxy consistency.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that the use of double-sidedly hydrophobically modified polyols, the amount of emulsifiers can be significantly reduced, and thereby the problem of skin irritation can be prevented or at least significantly reduced.

The use of such molecules as substitutes for surfactants in cosmetic compositions which are liquid at room temperature has already been described in the patent EP 0814753 B1 and in the published patent application EP 1120101 A2. EP 0814753 B1 relates here to cosmetic or dermatological gels based on microemulsions, while EP 1120101 A2 describes nanoemulsions. At room temperature, however, highly viscous, waxy compositions containing such molecules are not yet known in the art.

Surprisingly, it has also been found that the irritative properties of the cosmetic product can be further improved by the addition of polysaccharides. Thus, it was found for the polysaccharide-containing agents in a vitality test that these agents have very excellent properties in terms of the vitality of the tested cells and these agents by the combined effect of hydrophobic both sides hydrophobically modified polyols on the one hand and Polysaccharides on the other hand, at the same time reduced amounts of emulsifiers, perform much better in terms of irritative properties than hair waxes on the market as a benchmark.

A first object of the present invention are therefore at 25 ° C and a pressure of 1 bar waxy cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions comprising both sides hydrophobically modified polyols and polysaccharides, wherein the composition is preferably an emulsion, more preferably a microemulsion , The emulsion or microemulsion is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) preparation. The microemulsion preferably has a cubic phase. The emulsions and microemulsions according to the invention may be transparent, translucent or opaque.

The viscosity of the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 900 Pas at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz (25 ° C, 1 bar), it also preferably has a viscosity reduction when heated from 25 ° C to 7O ⁰ C by at least 20%, more preferably at least 50% (1 bar) and / or a yield point of at least 200 Pas, particularly preferably at least 500 Pas (1 bar) at 25 ⁰ C and 4O ⁰ C. the inventive compositions are advantageously Weiser further for at least three months at a Temperature of -2O ⁰ C stable.

The polyol which is hydrophobically modified on both sides is preferably a linear polyalkylene glycol having 50-1000 oxyalkylene units, which may optionally also be modified or monosubstituted or polysubstituted.

The alkylene groups of the polyalkylene glycol are preferably ethylene groups and / or propylene groups, wherein preferably at least half of the alkylene groups are ethylene groups.

The polyalkylene glycol is particularly preferably polyethylene glycol with 50-1000, more preferably 100-500 oxyethylene units.

The hydrophobic heads of the hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides are preferably a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 10-25 C atoms, it also being possible for the hydrocarbon radical to be monosubstituted or polysubstituted.

The hydrophobic heads can be bound to the polyol independently of one another, for example via ester, in particular carboxylic ester, acid amide, in particular carboxamide, thioester, in particular carboxylic acid thioester, alkylene, ether, sulfanyl or amino bonds. In a preferred embodiment, there is a carboxylic acid ester linkage. Examples of polyols which can be used hydrophobically on both sides according to the invention are, in particular, compounds of the general formulas RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ - (H ₁ -R ', RC (O) O-)

(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R \ RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -

CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R', RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) ₀ - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _p -

R ', RC (0) 0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _o - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃₎ -0-) _p -R' and RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _O - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - where R and R ¹ independently of one another are saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated branched or unbranched alkyl, in particular C _12-24 -alkyl, preferably C _16-2 o-alkyl, where the alkyl radical is also _{monosubstituted} or polysubstituted may be, in particular by radicals selected from C _6-10 -Ai ^ l, in particular phenyl, and wherein n or o + p has a value of 50-1000, in particular from 100-500.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention it is a PEG diester, wherein the PEG preferably has 50 to 1000 oxyethylene units, more preferably 100 to 500 oxyethylene units, and it is the carboxylic acid with which the ester is formed, preferably by a Ci ₀ . ₂₆ carboxylic acid, more preferably C _14-22 carboxylic acid. In particular, it is an ester of a PEG having about 200 oxyethylene units with two C ₁₈ carboxylic acids.

Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of the polyols hydrophobically modified on both sides, and in particular of polyethylene glycol, together with polysaccharides in waxy cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, in particular to allow the use of lower amounts of emulsifiers.

A preferred use of the composition according to the invention is the use as a hair treatment agent, in particular for modeling, shaping and styling of the hair.

As the site of application, accordingly, the skin of each body area comes into question, but especially the hair.

The hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of up to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 2% by weight.

The at least one polysaccharide is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of up to 5% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.05-3% by weight, in particular in an amount of 0.1-1, 5 wt .-% included. For the formation of the waxy composition according to the invention, it has been found to be advantageous that the composition comprises emulsifiers in an amount of up to 25% by weight, in particular from 2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular 5 to 10 wt.%, the composition preferably containing nonionic emulsifiers, in particular in an amount of up to 20 wt.%, preferably 2 to 15 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 to 10 wt. , In a preferred embodiment, nonionic emulsifiers are used in combination with anionic emulsifiers, the latter then preferably being present in the composition in an amount of up to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1-5% by weight.

Furthermore, it has been found to be advantageous that a fatty substance in an amount of up to 25 wt .-%, in particular from 5 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 20 wt. %, wherein the ratio between total amount of emulsifier to total amount of fatty substance is preferably in the range 0.1-2.5, particularly preferably in the range 0.2-1.0, in particular in the range 0.2-0.75, and wherein as fatty oils are preferred.

The pH range of the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range 3-7, more preferably in the range 4.5-6.5.

A preferred subject matter of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a) at least one hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides in an amount of up to 5% by weight, b) at least one polysaccharide in an amount of up to 5% by weight. , c) at least one emulsifier in an amount of up to 25% by weight, d) at least one fatty substance in an amount of up to 25% by weight.

A particularly preferred subject matter of the present invention is therefore furthermore a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a) at least one hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides in an amount of 0.1-4% by weight, b) at least one polysaccharide in an amount of 0, 05- 3 wt .-%, c) at least one emulsifier in an amount of 5-15 wt .-%, d) at least one fatty substance in an amount of 5-25 wt .-%, wherein the composition has a pH of 3 - 7 owns.

polysaccharides

Polysaccharides which are suitable according to the invention are composed of more than ten monosaccharide units. Examples of suitable polysaccharides are the starches made from α-D-glucose units and starch degradation products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextran. trine. Also usable according to the invention are chemically and / or thermally modified starches, e.g. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate or the commercial products Dry ^Flo® . Also suitable are dextranes and their derivatives, for. B. dextran sulfate.

Further examples according to the invention are polysaccharides from fucose units, eg. As the commercial product Fucogel ^® , as well as from aminosugar units constructed polysaccharides, especially chitins and their deacetylated derivatives, the chitosans, and mucopolysaccharides. The mucopolysaccharides include hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, e.g. As sodium hyaluronate or Dimethylsilanolhyaluronat, and chondroitin and its derivatives, for. B. chondroitin sulfate.

Naturally occurring polysaccharides such as gelatin, corn starch and locust bean gum are also usable according to the invention.

The polysaccharide may in particular be an anionic, nonionic or cationic polysaccharide.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharides are selected from anionic polysaccharides, especially from carboxylate, sulfate or phosphate groups, such as Xantham gum, carboxymethylcellulose, gellan gum, alginates, pectins, kappa-, iota- and lambda-carrageenans, gum arabic, sulfated dextrans or compounds available under the name Structure XL (National Starch) or Dry FIo Plus (National Starch).

In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the polysaccharides are selected from plant gums such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic or karaya gum, with guar gum and xanthan gum being very particularly preferred.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharides are selected from cellulose and cellulose derivatives. Non-ionic cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose and cationic cellulose derivatives, eg. , The commercial products Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^®, and preferably Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 (Polyquaternium-10) as well as Polyquaternium-24 in question. In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the polysaccharide is an anionic cellulose derivative, in particular a carboxy-modified cellulose derivative, most preferably carboxymethylcellulose. emulsifiers

In particular, addition products of ethylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols, to fatty acids, to fatty acid alkanolamides, to fatty acid monoglycerides, to sorbitan fatty acid monoesters, to fatty acid alkanolamides, to fatty acid glycerides, for example fatty acid glycerides, can be used according to the invention as nonionic emulsifiers. hydrogenated castor oil, methylglucoside mono-fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof. In principle, however, any other emulsifiers and / or surfactants can be used.

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention in this sense are, for example

- Addition products of 4 to 250, especially 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkyl phenols .

C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 250, in particular from 1 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. As the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids,

Sterols (sterols). Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol. From mushrooms and yeasts sterols, the so-called mycosterols, isolated.

Phospholipids, especially the glucose phospholipids, the z. B. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans),

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product)

Linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Other nonionic emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are:

- alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _X OR ³ , in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 represents} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and x represents numbers from 1 to 20,

Addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylamine N-oxides,

Alkyl polyglycosides wherein R is a C ₈ corresponding to the formula RO- (Z) _x - C ₁₆ - alkyl group, Z is glucose and x stands for the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. Particular preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ - alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5, preferably from 1.1 to 2.0, particularly preferably from 1.1 to 1.8, sugar units. The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The nonionic emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of the alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, compounds and from the group of the glycosylated compounds, particularly preferably from the group of the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and the glycosylated fatty acids. In particularly advantageous embodiments, the nonionic emulsifiers or nonionic surfactants selected from Oleth-5, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl Palmate (Antil® 200, Degussa) and sorbitan monolaurate and mixtures thereof.

In addition to nonionic emulsifiers, it is also possible for at least one ionic emulsifier selected from anionic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and cationic emulsifiers, in particular at least one anionic emulsifier, to be present.

Preferred anionic emulsifiers are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates. Zwitterionic emulsifiers carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^" - or -SO ₃ ^" group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

Further suitable anionic emulsifiers in inventive compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable foaming anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, acylglutamates of the formula (II),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (II)

HN-COR ¹

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, derived from fatty acids having from 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 derived carbon atoms, such as Ci _2/14 - or C _12/18 cocofatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, particularly sodium N-cocoyl and Sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (III),

X

HO - C - COOR ¹ (III)

Y _ CH - COOR ²

wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH, under the condition that Y is H when X-CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently A hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomers Saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₆ ) - hydroxyalkyl having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, esters of sulfosuccinic acid salt of the general formula (IV),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹ (IV)

I ^" O ₃ S - CH - COOR ²

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a Z radical derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of the etherified (C C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having from 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having from 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, provided that at least one of R ¹ or R ^{2 is selected} a residue Z is,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = O or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosinates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds,

Acyl taurates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, Acyl isethionates having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, linear alkane sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- Alkylsulfate and Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _Z -SO ₃ X, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably having 8 - 18 carbon atoms, z = 0 or 1 to 12, more preferably 3, and X is a sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, ammonium or a monoalkanol, dialkanol or Trialkanolammoniumion having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, with a particularly preferred example of zinc cocoyl ether sulfate with a degree of ethoxylation of z = 3,

Blends of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (V)

O i Il

R- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) n -O-P-OR ² (V)

OX in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ , an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represents a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of Formula R ⁷ CO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M, in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C-atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (VI),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _χ - COR 8 CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H (VI)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₂ - SO ₃ X

in which R ^{8 represents} CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X for an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (VI) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.

The anionic emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of the phosphorylated, in particular the phosphorylated, alkoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably from the group of the alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, in particular those according to formula (V). In advantageous embodiments, oleth-3-phosphate, mixtures of mono-, di- and triceteareth-4-phosphate (Hostaphat KW 340 D, Clariant) and / or mixtures of mono-, di- and trilaureth-4-phosphate (Hostaphat KL 340 D, Clariant) as anionic emulsifiers.

Ampholytic emulsifiers contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic emulsifiers are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.

Suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^H or -SO ₃ '^"' group in the molecule, particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

fatty substances

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions further contain fatty substances. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components as well as natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid or liquid form in aqueous or oily dispersion. The fatty substance may in particular be a nonpolar or polar liquid oil, which may be natural or synthetic. The oil component may in particular be selected from

- vegetable oils, in particular sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. B. isohexadecane and isoeicosane, from hydrogenated polyalkenes, in particular poly-1-decenes (commercially available as Nexbase 2004, 2006 or 2008 FG (Fortum, Belgium)), from synthetic hydrocarbons, for example 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl -hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol® S), as well as volatile and nonvolatile silicone oils which are cyclic, such. As decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, or may be linear, for. As linear dimethylpolysiloxane, commercially available z. B. under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, 200, 244, 245, 344, 345 or 350 and Baysilon ^® 350 M,

- Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether (commercially available as Cetiol® OE), di-n-decyl ether, di-n nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl -n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether.

- Ester oils. Ester oils are understood to mean the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, in particular C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -, in particular C ₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. In particular, isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM) ₁ isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate (Cetiol®V) , Glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), Oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid ester (Cetiol® V),

Dicarboxylic esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC),

Mono-, di- and Trifettsäureestem, in particular Trifettsäureestern, of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids, in particular C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, with glycerol, such as triglycerides of capric and / or caprylic, Monomuls® 90th - 018, Monomuls® 90-L12 or Cutina® MD.

The polar oil component may further be selected from branched alkanols, e.g. B. Guerbet alcohols having a single branch on the carbon atom 2 such as 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, isotridecanol and isohexadecanol, from alkanediols, eg. B. from Epoxyalkanen with 12 - 24 carbon atoms by ring opening with water available vicinal diols, from ether alcohols, eg. As the monoalkyl ethers of glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or 1, 2-butanediol, from dialkyl ethers each having 12 - 24 carbon atoms, z. Example, the alkyl methyl ethers or di-n-alkyl ethers, each having a total of 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE ex Cognis), as well as adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to mono- or polyvalent C ₃ . ₂ o-alkanols such as butanol and glycerol, z. PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®), PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP) PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®) and PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57).

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ - ₃ o fatty acids. Ciol- _22- fatty acids are preferred. Examples are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical properties mixtures. The fatty acids used can carry one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferred examples of these are the α-hydroxy-Cβ-Ciδ carboxylic acids and 12-hydroxystearic acid.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and very particularly preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, decanol, octanol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, can be used, for example. Arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols.

As natural or synthetic waxes can be used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Esparto grass wax, Japan wax, cork wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes and animal waxes such. B. beeswax and other insect waxes, spermaceti, shellac wax, wool wax and raffia fat, continue to mineral waxes such. As ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such. As petrolatum, paraffin waxes, Microwachse of polyethylene or polypropylene and polyethylene glycol waxes. It may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Furthermore, chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, z. As montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can be used.

Also suitable are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, such as. B. hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl hydroxystearate or glyceryl tri-12-, further (eg Syncrowachs ^®.) Synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2 - 6 carbon atoms, fatty acid monoalkanolamides with a C _{_12-22} acyl radical and a C _2-4 alkanol, esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, including z. Example, synthetic fatty acid fatty alcohol esters such as stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg., 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 1 to 80 C Atoms, lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids and full esters of fatty alcohols and di- and tricarboxylic acids, eg. As dicetylsuccinate or dicetyl / stearyl adipate, and mixtures of these substances.

It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated, unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 14 to 44 carbon atoms, provided the wax component or the entirety of the wax components are solid at room temperature. Particularly advantageously, the wax components from the group of C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the d _tM o-alkyl stearates, the C _2-40 alkyl isostearates, the C ₂₀ - ₄₀ dialkyl esters of dimer acids, the C _18- ₃₈ alkylhydroxystearoylstearates, the C ₂₀ - ₄₀ are selected -Alkylerucate further C _30-50 are - Alkylbienenwachs and cetearyl used. Silicone waxes, for example stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol, may also be advantageous. Particularly preferred wax components are the esters of saturated C ₂₀ -C ₆₀ monohydric alcohols and saturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ monocarboxylic acids, in particular a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate, which is sold under the name Kester Wax ^® K82H from Koster Keunen Inc. is available. The wax or the wax components should solid at 25 ° C, but in the range of 35 - 95 ⁰ C melt, with a range from 45 to 85 ⁰ C is preferred.

Natural, chemically modified and synthetic waxes may be used alone or in combination.

According to the invention, any combination of the aforementioned fatty substances can be used.

In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the fatty substance used according to the invention comprises at least one of the abovementioned oils. Preferred oils here are paraffin oil, ester oils and fatty acid esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred are paraffin oil, isopropyl myristate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Coco Caprylate / Caprate) and triglycerides of capric acid and / or caprylic acid (Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides) and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to the invention may also contain further constituents than those mentioned above. In a preferred embodiment, it contains at least one of the substances listed below. It may also contain any combination of the ingredients listed below.

hydrotropes

In order to improve the flow behavior and optionally to remove turbidity or to ensure the transparency of the emulsion may also hydrotrope, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols are used. The hydrotropes are preferably alcohols which dissolve at least 5 wt .-% at 20 ⁰ C clear in water or - in the case of long-chain or polymeric alcohols - by heating the solution to 50 ⁰ C to 60 ⁰ C in Solution can be brought. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are glycerol; C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols such as 1,6-hexanediol, alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerine blends having an inherent degree of condensation of from 1.5 to 10, such as technical grade diglycerin blends having a diglycerol content of from 40 to 50% by weight; Methylol compounds, in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Niedrigalkylglucoside, in particular those having 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and Butylglucosid; Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; Amino sugars such as glucamine; Dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

The amount of the hydrotrope or of the hydrotrope mixture in the compositions according to the invention is preferably 1 to 20% by weight and preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, in particular methyl or propylparaben, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation. As insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate in question, suitable as a self-tanner dihydroxyacetone.

Hydrophilic modified silicones

The compositions of the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic modified silicone. They allow the formulation of highly transparent compositions, reduce the stickiness and leave a fresh feeling on the skin. Hydrophilically modified silicones are understood according to the invention to mean polyorganosiloxanes having hydrophilic substituents which cause the water solubility of the silicones. According to the invention is understood to mean water-solubility that is at least 2 wt .-% resolve the modified with hydrophilic groups silicone in water at 20 ⁰ C. Corresponding hydrophilic substituents are, for example, hydroxyl, polyethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol side chains and ethoxylated ester side chains. According to the invention suitable are hydrophilic modified silicone copolyols, especially dimethicone copolyols, under, for example, from Wacker-Chemie under the name Belsil ^® DMC 6031, Belsil ^® DMC 6032, Belsil ^® DMC 6038 or Belsil ^® DMC 3071 VP or from Dow Corning the name DC 2501 are commercially available. Particularly preferably suitable is the use of Belsil® ^® DMC 6038, as it allows the formulation of highly transparent compositions that reach the consumer greater acceptance. According to the invention, it is also possible to use any desired mixture of these silicones.

The amount of the hydrophilic modified silicone or the alcohol mixture in the compositions according to the invention is 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Composition.

Other saccharides

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can be at least one mono- or

Oligosaccharide or derivatives thereof. According to the invention suitable monosaccharides are z. As glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxy sugars fucose and rhamnose and amino sugars such. As glucosamine or galactosamine. Preferred are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

According to the invention suitable oligosaccharides are composed of two to ten monosaccharide units, for. As sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred oligosaccharide is sucrose. Also particularly preferred is the use of honey, which contains predominantly glucose and sucrose.

Other polymers

In an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the polysaccharides, at least one film-forming, emulsion-stabilizing, thickening or adhesive polymer selected from natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Cationic, anionic and nonionic polymers are preferred according to the invention.

Preferred among the cationic polymers are polysiloxanes having quaternary groups, e.g. , The commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (with amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt).

Preferred anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient used according to the invention comprise carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. Within this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfone All or part of acid groups are present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with preference being given to polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide as crosslinking agents. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial products Sepigel ^® 305 and Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. The use of these compounds has proven to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Further preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2 - 20%, if desired substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _10-3 o-carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer with can be crosslinked to the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® products and the Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Other ingredients

The compositions of the invention may further contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid or α-ketocarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Suitable α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are selected from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid , 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-

Hydroxyhexadecanoic, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic, mandelic, 4-hydroxymandelic, malic, erythraric, threaric, glucaric, galactaric, mannaric, gularic, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic, gluconic, pyruvic, glucuronic and galacturonic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids or their derivatives are present in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. The compositions of the invention may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example:

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, C, E and F, in particular 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), ß-carotene (provitamin of vitamin Ai), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and the palmitic acid esters, glucosides or phosphates of ascorbic acid, tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol and its esters, for. The acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate; vitamin F, which is understood as meaning essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid; an ester of retinol (vitamin A ₁₎ with a C ₂ i ₈ carboxylic acid, in particular retinyl acetate or retinyl palmitate.

Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors of the vitamin B group or derivatives thereof and derivatives of 2-furanone, in particular vitamin B ₁ (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide), vitamin B ₅ ( Pantothenic acid and / or panthenol), vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and / or pyridoxal) and / or vitamin B ₇ (biotin),

Allantoin, bisabolol, pH adjuster, in particular having a basic function, such as aminomethylpropanol, in particular in an amount of up to 2% by weight,

Antioxidants, for example imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, Amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and Salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low compatible dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, Lac toferrin), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. B. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, the Koniferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure , Nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydric hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, catalase, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. Stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the antioxidant-suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances,

Ceramides and pseudoceramides,

Triterpenes, in particular triterpenic acids such as ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonolic acid,

- Monomeric catechins, especially catechin and epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidins, catechin polymers (catechin tannins) and gallotannins,

Thickener, z. B. natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates, z. As bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. Polyvinyl alcohol, and also Ca, Mg or Zn soaps of fatty acids,

plant glycosides,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

dimethyl isosorbide,

Alpha, beta and gamma cyclodextrins, in particular for the stabilization of retinol,

Solvents, swelling and penetrating agents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol and diethylene glycol, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates

Perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the agent, substances for adjusting the pH, z. B. α- and ß-hydroxycarboxylic acids, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

MMP-1-inhibiting substances, in particular selected from photolyase and / or T4 endonuclease V, propyl gallate, precocenes, 6-hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran and 3,4-dihydro-6 -hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethyl-1 (2H) -benzopyran, organic, mineral and / or modified mineral sunscreen filters, in particular UVA filters and / or UVB filters. In a very particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the composition of the invention contains a diester of PEG 100-500 and a do-26 carboxylic acid in an amount of 0.1-4, in particular 0.2-2 wt .-%, at least one polysaccharide in in an amount of 0.05-3% by weight, in particular 0.1-2% by weight, preferably selected from natural gums, at least one of the abovementioned nonionic emulsifiers, in particular from the group of ethoxylated compounds, more preferably from Group of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in an amount of 5-20, in particular 5-15% by weight, especially 5-10 wt .-%, optionally at least one of the aforementioned anionic emulsifiers, in particular from the group of phosphorylated, especially the phosphorylated alkoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably from the group of alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, in particular those according to formula (V), in an amount of up to 5 wt .-%, in particular vo n 0.1-5 wt .-%, at least one of the aforementioned natural and / or synthetic oils, in particular selected from paraffin oil and ester oils, in an amount of 5-25, in particular 5-20 wt .-%, wherein the inventive Composition has a pH of 3-7, in particular 4.5-6.5, and wherein preferably the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is at least 900 Pa at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz (25 ° C, 1 bar), and / or the viscosity reduction when heated from 25 ° C to 7O ⁰ C at least 20%, in particular at least 50% (1 bar) and / or the yield point at least 200 Pa, in particular at least 500 Pa (1 bar) at 25 ⁰ C and 40 ⁰ C is and / or the compositions of the invention for at least three months at a temperature of -2O ⁰ C are stable.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it thereto.

embodiments

Basic formulations for O / W microemulsions and vitality values

In order to determine the irritating effect of the microemulsions, tests were carried out on the corneal model HCE (skin ethic). The cornea model (SkinEthic, France) is a three-dimensional reconstructed human corneal model for examining eye irritation that has the characteristics of the epithelial portion of the human cornea.

To determine the irritative properties, a vitality test is performed. For this purpose, the MTT test (MTT = 3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide), modified according to the method of T. Mosmann (1983) is used. This is based on the conversion of a formazan salt into a blue formazan crystal. This reaction is carried out by cellular and mitochondrial enzymes. Therefore, the dye intensity can be correlated with the number of living cells or with the vitality of a tissue. The dye intensity is determined spectrophotometrically. For this purpose, the cultures are incubated after the respective incubation for one hour at 37 ^C C in MTT solution. The extraction is carried out with isopropanol for one hour. Subsequently, the OD is measured at 540 nm on the spectrophotometer.

The leakage of the cytoplasmic enzyme lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) from the cell is a parameter for the membrane integrity of the cell. It is a cytotoxicity test. The detection is carried out with the aid of a test kit (Cytotoxicity Detection Kit, Roche Diagnostics).

To determine the irritative properties of the test substances, in each case 30 μl of the mixtures were applied and rinsed off after 6 or 12 hours. The remaining vitality of the cultures was measured at the end of the test in the MTT test. For this purpose, the cultures were incubated after the respective incubation for one hour at 37 ⁰ C in MTT solution. The extraction was carried out with isopropanol for one hour. Subsequently, the OD was measured at 540 nm on the spectrophotometer.

The information given in the following examples is given in% by weight, in each case for the active substance in relation to the total composition.

footnotes:

1. Standard deviation in parentheses

2. Sample 7: Benchmark: commercially available distearate and polysaccharide-free formulation with increased content of surfactants

Example 8: Hair wax microemulsion:

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.80%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

Xathan gum (Keltrol CG-SFT) 0.25%

PEG-150 distearate 1.50%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerine 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

Abil B 8843 1.00%

Perfume 1.00%

AMP 0.70%

Distilled water add 100.00% The oil phase is heated to 80 ⁰ C and then added to the water phase.

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Add active ingredients or perfume. A translucent O / W microemulsion is obtained.

Example 9: Hair Wax Microemulsion

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.90%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

PEG-250 Disterate 1, 50%

Xanthan gum 0.50%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

AbN B 8843 1, 00%

Perfume 1, 00%

AMP 0.7% distilled water add 100.00%

The oil phase is heated to 80 ⁰ C and then added to the water phase.

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Example 10: Hair wax microemulsion:

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.90%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

PEG-250 Disterate 0.50%

Sodium carboxymethylcellulose (Blanose) 1, 00%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

Abil B 8843 1, 00%

Perfume 1, 00%

AMP 0.70%

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Example 11: Hair Wax Microemulsion

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.90%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

PEG-250 Disterate 1, 00%

Sodium carboxymethylcellulose (Blanose) 1, 00%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

Abil B 8843 1, 00%

Perfume 1, 00%

AMP 0.70%

Distilled water add 100.00%

The oil phase is heated to 80 ⁰ C and then added to the water phase.

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Add active ingredients or perfume. This gives a translucent G7W microemulsion.

Example 12: Hair wax microemulsion

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.90%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

PEG-250 Disterate 1, 00%

Guar Gum (Supercol G2-S) 0.50%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

Abil B 8843 1, 00%

Perfume 1, 00%

AMP 0.70%

Distilled water add 100.00% The oil phase is heated to 80 ° C and then added to the water phase.

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Add active ingredients or perfume. This gives a translucent O / microemulsion.

Example 13: Hair wax microemulsion

Component amount (wt.%)

Paraffin oil 15.00%

Oleth-5 6.90%

Oleth-3-phosphate 4.00%

PEG-250 Disterate 1, 00%

Guar Gum (Supercol G2-S) 1, 00%

Sorbitol 12.50%

Butylene glycol 5.00%

Glycerin 3.00%

Panthenol 0.50%

Abil B 8843 1, 00%

Perfume 1, 00%

AMP 0.70%

Distilled water add 100.00%

The oil phase is heated to 8O ⁰ C and then added to the water phase.

The mixture is then cooled with stirring. Subsequently, if necessary sensitive

Overview of the used commercial products

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a) at least one polyolefin hydrophobically modified on both sides in an amount of up to 5 wt .-%, b) at least one polysaccharide in an amount of up to 5 wt .-%, c) at least one emulsifier in an amount of up to 25% by weight, d) at least one fatty substance in an amount of up to 25% by weight.

2. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 1 comprising a) at least one hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides in an amount of 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, b) at least one polysaccharide in an amount of 0.05 - 3 wt .-% , c) at least one emulsifier in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight, d) at least one fatty substance in an amount of 5 to 25% by weight, the composition having a pH of 3 to 7.

3. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the bond between polyol and hydrophobic heads on ester, acid amide, thioester, alkylene, ether, sulfanyl and / or amino bonds takes place.

4. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified polyol on both sides is selected from compounds of the general formulas RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', RC (O ) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ¹ , RO- (CH ₂ -) CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R \ RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _O - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _P -R', R- C (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) ₀ - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃₎ -O-) p R 'and RC (O) O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _O - (CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - wherein R and R 'independently of one another represent saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl, especially C _12-24 alkyl, preferably Ciβ- ₂₀ -alkyl, where the alkyl group also may be mono- or polysubstituted , in particular by radicals selected from C _6, .alpha.-aryl, in particular phenyl, and where n or o + p has a value of 50-1000, in particular of 100-500.

5. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is the hydrophobic modified on both sides of a polyalkylene glycol diester.

6. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it is in the polyalkylene glycol ester to a Polyethylene glycol diester consisting of a PEG 50-1000 esterified at the end groups with a C _10-26 carboxylic acid is.

7. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains at least one nonionic emulsifier selected from ethoxylated and / or glycosylated nonionic emulsifiers in an amount of 5-20 wt .-%.

8. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one anionic emulsifier in an amount of up to 5 wt .-%.

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the anionic emulsifier is a phosphorylated emulsifier.

10. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the anionic emulsifier is selected from the group of alkyl and / or alkenyl ether.

11. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is the fatty substance is a natural and / or synthetic oil.

12. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the oil is selected from the group consisting of paraffin oil, ester oils and fatty acid esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof.

13. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of plant gums such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic or karaya gum.

14. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the polysaccharide is selected from cellulose and cellulose derivatives.

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the polysaccharide is an anionic polysaccharide.

16. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the composition has a viscosity of at least 900 Pas at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz (25 ° C, 1 bar).

17. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the composition has a viscosity reduction when heated from 25 ° C to 70 ⁰ C by at least 20% (1 bar).

18. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the composition has a yield point at 25 ⁰ C and 40 ° C of at least 200 Pas (1 bar).

19. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it is a transparent, translucent or opaque preparation.

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of Claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the composition is an O / W emulsion or O / W microemulsion.

21. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it has cubic phases.

22. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that it is a hair treatment agent.

23. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 22, characterized in that it is a hair wax or gel wax.

24. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vitality of the cells after 24 hours in the corneal model is at least 10% higher than in the same formulation without polysaccharide.

25. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24 for modeling and / or shaping a hairstyle.

26. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24 for styling the hair.