EP1866473A1 - Procede de controle des colorations dans la fabrication de tissus de type denim - Google Patents

Procede de controle des colorations dans la fabrication de tissus de type denim

Info

Publication number
EP1866473A1
EP1866473A1 EP05743134A EP05743134A EP1866473A1 EP 1866473 A1 EP1866473 A1 EP 1866473A1 EP 05743134 A EP05743134 A EP 05743134A EP 05743134 A EP05743134 A EP 05743134A EP 1866473 A1 EP1866473 A1 EP 1866473A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
dye
control method
sample thread
works
thread
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05743134A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Andrea Busolo
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Montebello Srl
Original Assignee
Montebello Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Montebello Srl filed Critical Montebello Srl
Publication of EP1866473A1 publication Critical patent/EP1866473A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B23/00—Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
    • D06B23/12—Means for taking samples from textile materials during or after treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02H—WARPING, BEAMING OR LEASING
    • D02H5/00—Beaming machines
    • D02H5/02—Beaming machines combined with apparatus for sizing or other treatment of warps

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a dye-works control method in the manufacturing of Denim-type fabric.
  • the manufacturing procedure starts from the raw cotton in bales, feeding the cards.
  • the latter are machines having a series of steel hooks, mounted on a large drum and on rollers, which straighten out and unfold the fibre tufts forming the roving ready for spinning. Uninterruptedly, the roving passes through the drawing frames and, finally, the open-end spinning machines .
  • the yarn reels go to feed the warping department, which will produce the sectional beams to be dyed in dye-works. More precisely, with the warping operation the so-called warp threads are made, i.e. that set of threads, longitudinally stretched onto a loom, intended to cross with the weft to form the fabric.
  • the warp threads are wound, arranged on parallel lines in high number, on cylindrical drums that are denominated sectional beams.
  • Denim weft is formed by undyed raw threads, allowing, interlaced with dyed warp threads, to attain the peculiar color effect that makes Denim so distinctive.
  • the dye-works fundamentally works with Indigo-based preparations. Indigo is generally applied to the cotton thread with the specific and characteristic sequential impregnation-squeezing technology. This technology, along with the peculiar features of the indigo dye, scanty fastness to rubbing and washing, allow a superficial dyeing of the thread, which only thus can generate fadings characteristic of the denim when it is subsequently treated (e.g., with a stone washing it exhibits a pepper-and-salt look inimitable on other textile bases) .
  • the problems to be found in dye-works are related to undesired changes of color caused by problems of various nature that may occur during the dyeing of a manufacturing.
  • color measuring is purely indicative, as the operator in charge of control detects merely one of the dyeing aspects, i.e., the conformity of the dye to the sample and the preceding production.
  • the actual control can be performed only at the end of the cycle, by washing the fabric to imitate the client's treatments.
  • the dyeing result is influenced also by the pattern of the fabric and by the finishing to which the latter is subjected, rendering problematic an assessing of the dye-works performances.
  • a viable solution consists in using complex instruments of chromatic analysis, already used in other phases of the manufacturing.
  • instruments in view of their complexity and therefore of their cost, can be used merely to carry out sample tests for statistical ends and anyhow do not allow to assess the behavior of the color to the subsequent treatments.
  • said instruments are unsuitable for a continuous control, required for the abovedisclosed dye- works problems, if not at extremely high costs.
  • a further drawback lies in that, even though shade is mainly linked to the dyeing operations, also the other phases of the manufacturing have an effect on the final shade of the product; thus, without an adequate control during the dyeing itself it is not possible to understand whether any problems are due to the dyeing phase or to issues of other nature, leading however to deviations in the final shade with respect to the one foreseen.
  • the technical problem underlying the present invention consists in providing a method for controlling the dyeing shade of Denim thread overcoming the drawbacks mentioned with reference to the known art.
  • control method according to the invention allows an effective control of the shade of the thread, and therefore of the fabric, in extremely short times, without waiting for the manufacturing of the end product.
  • the problems influencing the shade of the finished fabric due to the dyeing phase may be differentiated from those linked to the subsequent manufacturing .
  • figure 1 is a schematic illustration showing a dye- works for Denim fabric
  • figure 2 is a perspective view of sectional beams, detail of the dye-works for Denim fabric of figure 1
  • figure 3 is a perspective view illustrating a feeding section 1, in which there are loaded the sectional beams of figure 2, and the inlet of a dyeing section of the dye-works according to the present invention
  • figure 4 is a perspective illustration of a carpet of manufacturing threads and of a sample thread, inserted at the inlet of the dyeing section of figure 3
  • figure 5 is a perspective view showing a vat of the dyeing section of figure 3
  • figure 6 is a perspective view illustrating an outlet section in which the carpet of threads is gathered in a single beam.
  • a dye-works for Denim fabric comprises a feeding section 1, in which a plurality of sectional beams 11 are loaded, a dyeing section 2, comprising a series of vats 21, downstream of each one thereof there being arranged a pair of rollers 22, an outlet section 3 and a gathering section 4, in which the threads coming from the sectional beams are, upon having completed the dyeing, gathered in a single beam 41.
  • the dyeing procedure essentially takes place according to a technique conventional for Denim.
  • the yarn, formed by the carpet of threads 14 is dyed in the desired coloration.
  • the carpet of threads 14 coming from the sectional beams 11 is passed in a series of vats 21 containing the dye bath. Between one vat and another one, the carpet of threads passes through a pair of squeezing rollers 22 eliminating the excess of liquid. Subsequently, the dye absorbed by the thread is oxidized in air, by natural or forced convection. Thus, the carpet of threads 14 can pass into the subsequent vat to repeat this operation. The latter can be repeated from six to ten times, depending on the line, prior to being washed and fixated with the same methodology.
  • the method according to the present invention provides, unlike the commonly used procedure, the inserting of a sample thread 13, along with the carpet of manufacturing threads 14 coming from the sectional beams 11 .
  • sample thread 13 may conveniently be of non-shot type, of twisted pure cotton, with Ne equal to 30/2. These features make the thread more resistant to breakage, without overly prejudicing its workability.
  • the inserting of the sample thread 13 in the dyeing line is suitably carried out just downstream of the inlet section of the dye- works, upstream of the first vat of the dyeing section 2.
  • the sample thread thus inserted, follows the carpet of warp threads 14 in the dyeing section, it being subjected to the same process of the others and therefore keeping all the changes of shade and the problems of various nature influencing the qualitative result of the end product .
  • sample thread 13 is suitably selected of a particular type and it undergoes some preparatory operations, prior to the dyeing phase, in order to facilitate the manufacturing thereof; operations that could not be viable when taking the thread from the carpet 14 .
  • the sample thread comes from a single lot expressly set apart therefor, in order to rule out raw material problems . Then, the sample thread 13 is gathered at the end of the dyeing process, at the outlet section 3, upstream of the gathering section.
  • a reel winder 6 connected, e.g., electrically, to the remainder of the dyeing section.
  • the reel winder detects an interruption in the gathering of the sample thread, e.g., due to a breakage of the thread itself, the entire dye-works is automatically stopped, allowing to repair the sample thread.
  • the reel winder works at the same dyeing rate, to allow perfect synchronism between the gathering of the outlet beam and of the sample thread onto the reel winder.
  • the length of the hank of sample thread to be inserted is suitably equal to the length of the entire manufacturing lot, so that the dyeing phase of the latter be completely described by a single thread reel. Anyhow, the manufacturing lot may also be described by plural reels of sample thread, provided that to each reel there be clearly and univocally associated a portion of the manufacturing lot.
  • Denim warp fabric is commonly characterized, after the dyeing phase, by a rather dark blue shade, the decolorized zone will be quite evident, enabling to univocally identify the beam changes in the sample thread.
  • interruptions to the dyeing process can also occur for several other reasons, in particular when the sample thread breaks.
  • the dye-works is automatically stopped, it being connected to the reel winder, and thereby the two ends of the sample thread can be reunited therebetween. Also in this phase it may be advisable to mark, always by decolorization, the taking place of such an occurrence.
  • the operation of the dye-works is registered depending on the gathering of the sample thread onto the reel winder, so as to create an univocal correspondence between thread length and manufacturing instant. In practice, thus to each thread portion there could be associated a corresponding warp portion, coming from a definite instant of the manufacturing.
  • the method according to the present invention provides to use the sample thread to assess the shade obtained with the dyeing phase.
  • a peculiarity entails a relevant advantage, as the warp threads do not give the option of assessing the shade obtained during the dyeing if not after the weaving phase and the subsequent finishing, whereas the sample thread 14 could give near-immediate indications on the dyeing pattern, when subjected to the remarkably quick operations described hereinafter.
  • the method provides, following the gathering into the reel of the reel winder 6, the preparing of a support entirely made of the sample thread 14.
  • such a support can be made starting from the reel of sample thread obtained in the dyeing phase, with a knitting machine, making the support in the form of a single continuous sock.
  • the use of the fabric in form of sock proves particularly suitable to the subsequent manufacturing, in particular to the washing phase to which the support is suitably subjected.
  • the subsequent step is that of knitting the thread until obtaining a single sock corresponding to the manufacturing of the entire lot, or of the lot portion that the sample thread reel describes.
  • the sample thread may be manufactured in any other equivalent way, as long as there are obtained fabric portions associable to the dyeing process of the warp threads .
  • the latter is suitably waxed. This operation is carried out by means of a reel rewinder, winding the thread on a new reel and passing it below a wax pellet.
  • the former Upon producing a single sock from a reel of suitably waxed sample thread, the former entirely represents the manufacturing. In principle, in it there can be singled out the changes of shade taking place nearly continuously during the manufacturing.
  • the continuous analysis of the dyeing phase may suitably be replaced, with acceptable approximation, by a discontinuous analysis in preset points. Firstly, it may be observed that to each manufacturing instant there corresponds a determined manufacturing length, i.e., the quantity of thread, in length units, manufactured until that instant.
  • the manufacturing length variable will suitably be used as indication of the advance of the manufacturing, as the analysis on the sample thread is carried out in order to control the shade of the end product, which can be represented univocally only by using a length variable.
  • the length of the sock can be immediately correlated to the manufacturing length, as the sample thread 14 used in a certain portion of sock has been subjected to the dyeing operation along with a corresponding portion of warp threads, which will then be woven and manufactured until making the end product.
  • the sample thread sock can be divided into individual portions, each characteristic of a certain manufacturing length. Moreover, in order to effectively represent the manufacturing it is not necessary to use the whole sock made with the sample thread; it will suffice to take characteristic portions thereof.
  • the knitting phase produces a sock of about 250 cm starting from a 4000m beam. From the whole sock there may be taken, always by way of example, two cuts of about 35 cm, the first one at the start of each beam and the second one starting from the middle of the beam. These portions are already adequate to characterize in a sufficiently accurate manner the entire length of manufacturing of the beam, as the manufacturing rate is high.
  • the sock will not have the same shade of the end product, not having been woven together with the weft and not having undergone the same manufacturing of the warp yarn.
  • any dyeing problem will produce in both a deviation from the expected value of the shade proportional to the extent of the problem.
  • sample thread support can be made in an extremely quicker manner with respect to the making of the end product, therefore allowing to carry out a preliminary analysis to check any dyeing problems, and, when possible, to intervene.
  • each portion of sample thread support there can be correlated a manufacturing length.
  • the support may be divided into discrete portions, so as to create support portions.
  • the portions will have a certain changeability in shade, due to the unavoidable problems taking place during the dyeing.
  • the distribution of the other groups in which the portions are catalogued will be related to the pattern of the dyeing phase: in the absence of problems, the other groups will exhibit a very low recurrence, whereas, in case of unforeseen events taking place in the dyeing phase, the distribution becomes irregular with evident deviances from the group of higher recurrence.
  • the control method according to the present invention allows to carry out an accurate detection in a quick and effective manner, of the pattern of the shade pattern in the end product.
  • Knowing the pattern of the production shade entails several advantages.
  • the method according to the present invention allows an easy cataloguing of the pattern of the dyeing phase, a pattern that could be analyzed, e.g., monthly, in order to single out any cyclical errors, due, e.g., to sudden thermal changes, or to unskilled operators .
  • the method allows to distinguish between changes of shade due to the dyeing phase and changes due to other factors.
  • the distribution of the shade in the sample thread support is the same of that in the end product in case no other problems intervene after the dyeing phase. Then, any deviations among distributions may be due solely to the presence of additional problems, external to the dyeing phase.
  • this method allows to assess the behavior (sample) of novel yarns or to study novel dyes. The specificity and the peculiarity of the indigo dye are hardly reproducible in a laboratory, entailing high costs of production whenever the problem occurs. On the contrary, by replacing the sample thread with that to be tested there can be obtained important information over short times.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

Le procédé décrit ci-dessus comprend les étapes de : insertion d'un fil échantillon (13) avec un tapis de fils de fabrication (14) ; le fait de soumettre le fil échantillon (13) et le tapis de fils (14) au même procédé de coloration ; la collecte du fil échantillon (13) à la fin du procédé de coloration ; la préparation d'un support de tissu entièrement fait du fil échantillon (13) ; la corrélation de parties de support de tissu aux moments de fabrication correspondants ; le contrôle des déviations de nuance du tissu Denim final au moyen des changements de nuances des parties de tissu.
EP05743134A 2005-04-04 2005-04-04 Procede de controle des colorations dans la fabrication de tissus de type denim Withdrawn EP1866473A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/IT2005/000180 WO2006106533A1 (fr) 2005-04-04 2005-04-04 Procede de controle des colorations dans la fabrication de tissus de type denim

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1866473A1 true EP1866473A1 (fr) 2007-12-19

Family

ID=35266864

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05743134A Withdrawn EP1866473A1 (fr) 2005-04-04 2005-04-04 Procede de controle des colorations dans la fabrication de tissus de type denim

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1866473A1 (fr)
BR (1) BRPI0520219A2 (fr)
MX (1) MX2007010686A (fr)
WO (1) WO2006106533A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB0706978D0 (en) 2007-04-11 2007-05-16 Ineos Fluor Holdings Ltd Process
ITUA20163921A1 (it) 2016-05-30 2017-11-30 Mayer Textilmaschf Apparecchiatura multifunzionale per la tintura in continuo di catene di ordito per tessuti.

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH613333B (de) * 1976-04-09 1900-01-01 Quikoton Ag Verfahren zum kontinuierlichen faerben von baumwoll-kettgarn mit indigo.
JPS61266634A (ja) * 1985-05-15 1986-11-26 インダストリアル　プロセス　アンド　リサ−チ　ベスロ−テン　ベノ−トスハツプ インデイゴ染料で染色された緯糸を巻いたスプ−ルの製造方法並びに装置
GB2266733B (en) * 1992-05-07 1995-10-25 Wah Lau Process for indigo dyeing and beaming of warp yarn
FR2725734A1 (fr) * 1994-10-18 1996-04-19 Roquette Freres Procede et dispositif pour renvider un fil textile en sortie d'une encolleuse industrielle, bobine de fil encollee ainsi obtenue, et utilisation de cette bobine
DE19706835C1 (de) * 1997-02-21 1998-03-26 Monforts Textilmaschinen Gmbh Einrichtung zum Färben einer textilen Stoffprobe
DE19940608C1 (de) * 1999-08-27 2001-05-10 Kuesters Eduard Maschf Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Musters eines Behandlungsausfalls an einer textilen Warenprobe

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2006106533A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2006106533A1 (fr) 2006-10-12
MX2007010686A (es) 2007-10-12
BRPI0520219A2 (pt) 2009-04-22

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