Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

• Human skin may be classified into two major parts: the outer layer
• the dermis contains, among other things, blood vessels, nerves, collagen, elastin, and fibroblast cells, which
• the epidermis may be considered to consist of two major zones, an inner or malpighian layer, and an outer or homy layer.
• a living tissue may be further divided into basal, spinous, and granular
• the outer horny layer a dead tissue, is also referred to as stratum
• corneocytes dead cells in the stratum corneum. This process of forming corneocytes is called keratinization.
• the stratum corneum consists of approximately 14 layers of dead cells and is the skin tissue that one feels when
• compositions that protects the living portion of the skin from damage.
• a composition is applied that increases the natural exfoliation rate (cell renewal rate) of the skin, thus increasing the rate at which the outer layers of dead cells (the stratum corneum)
• One conventional method of protecting the living skin cells from oxidative damage is by applying a composition containing ⁇ -Tocopherol
• Vitamin E is oil-soluble and can improve the appearance of the skin through
• Nicotinate, and Tocopherol can also serve to protect living skin cells from oxidative attack.
• Naturally occurring Vitamin E and its oil-soluble derivatives are believed to improve the appearance of skin by reducing oxidative
• VEP DL- ⁇ -Tocopheryl Phosphate
• the derivative may be prepared by reacting Vitamin E with sodium phosphate.
• the '867 patent discloses how VEP can improve the health of animals when administered internally.
• WO 93/15731 discloses how internally administering phosphate derivitized Vitamin E to mice can prevent liver damage. Unlike prior oil-soluble Vitamin E
• VEP is soluble in water.
• Exfoliating acids are known to increase the rate of natural exfoliation. Exfoliating acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid, pyruvic
• hydroxycarboxylic acids including hydroxycarboxylic acids, is that they are most effective at low pH, about
• acidic exfoliating agents are believed to deprotonate at a pH of about 3.8, thus losing their beneficial activity at higher pH due to a lack of bioavailability.
• composition be limited by the exfoliation ability of the acid, but by how often the composition can be applied to the skin without undue irritation.
• exfoliating acids which include hydroxycarboxylic acids, demonstrate a significant stimulation of cell renewal coupled with an undesirable level of skin irritation.
• exfoliating acids which include hydroxycarboxylic acids
• pH of the acidic composition is increased to approach neutral (7.0), cell renewal,
• exfoliation without the skin irritation associated with exfoliating acids. It would be most desirable to provide for enhanced skin exfoliation at a pH more closely approaching neutral to reduce skin irritation.
• the present compositions provide enhanced skin exfoliation at a higher pH and with lower irritation than conventional exfoliating acids, thus overcoming a significant disadvantage of acidic exfoliants.
• the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising a water-soluble
• Vitamin E derivative and a carrier that includes water.
• the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is preferably a water-soluble salt of Vitamin E and is in the water
• a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is present in the composition in an amount effective to increase the rate of natural skin
• the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative enhances the rate of
• compositions including a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative present in a therapeutically effective amount in a topically acceptable carrier for application to human skin to increase the natural rate of skin exfoliation.
• the composition contains from about 0.05% to about 30% of a water-soluble Vitamin
• E derivative and has a pH in the range from about 4.5 to 9.
• Another aspect of the present invention includes a method of increasing the rate of skin exfoliation comprising topically applying a cosmetic composition containing an amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative effective to enhance the rate of skin cell exfoliation beyond the naturally occurring rate of skin cell exfoliation.
• the method includes topically applying to the skin a composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the rate of
• the present invention relates to compositions that enhance the rate
• compositions are believed to act by increasing the exfoliation or "release" of dead cells, not by repairing or protecting living skin cells from damage, including oxidative damage from radicals and peroxides.
• present compositions increase the rate at which dead keratinizing cells are
• the visible layer of the skin may be
• the present invention relates to a composition containing a skin benefiting agent that includes a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative that stimulates cell renewal, but does not unduly irritate at the desired
• the present invention includes a composition including sodium phosphate derivatized Vitamin E (VEP).
• VEP sodium phosphate derivatized Vitamin E
• present invention also relates to a method of increasing the rate of skin-cell
• composition comprises an effective amount of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative and a
• a composition acceptable for topical application to the skin comprises a water-
• the water-soluble Vitamin E salts useful in the present invention include all enantiomers whether singly or in combination.
• preferable salts include phosphates and sulfates, with phosphate salts being presently preferred.
• the cation portion of the salt includes, but is not
• alkali and alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium.
• the cations can be used alone or in a mixture of two or more.
• Sodium is a preferred cation for the salt.
• Suitable water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives may include, for example,
• the Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates may be thought of as phosphate salts of Vitamin E and its derivatives having beta-alanine functionality.
• Preferred water-soluble Vitamin E derivatives include Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate (VEP), Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate, and Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates.
• VEP Sodium Vitamin E Phosphate
• Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate Lauryl Imino Dipropionic Acid Tocopheryl Phosphate
• Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates.
• compositions according to the present invention at least one of the aforementioned water-soluble Vitamin E salts may be mixed with
• a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes water.
• a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier that includes water.
• from about 0.05% to about 30% of the composition is the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%.
• compositions including from about 0.4% to about 5% of the water- soluble Vitamin E derivative is especially preferred. Unless stated otherwise, all
• the carrier is capable of assisting in maintaining the desired pH of the composition.
• the pH values for the compositions of the present invention are from about 4.5 to about 9, preferably from 4.8 to 8.2, and
• a pH of 5 is an order of magnitude less acidic than a pH of 4.
• the water-soluble Vitamin E derivative is not combined to form a composition containing exfoliating acids, squalene, or squalane.
• squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon formed by reduction of squalene
• the composition does not include an exfoliating acid at a concentration sufficient to provide an increase in exfoliation rate. In another aspect, the composition does not include an exfoliating acid at a concentration sufficient to provide an increase in exfoliation rate. In another aspect, the composition does
• composition does not contain greater than 2% of an exfoliating acid.
• composition does not contain an exfoliating acid having a bioavailability of 4% or
• compositions of the present invention may be formulated as a
• the water-based composition contains oil, the water-soluble Vitamin E salt is substantially in
• the cosmetically acceptable carrier includes water and preferably
• the composition acts as a dilutant, dispersant, or carrier for other cosmetic ingredients present in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
• the composition includes from 5 to 98% water and more preferably from 80 to 98% water.
• compositions of the present invention may also contain various conventional cosmetic ingredients, so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired enhancement of skin exfoliation or composition pH.
• Suitable cosmetic ingredients so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired enhancement of skin exfoliation or composition pH.
• ingredients can include liquid or solid emollients, organic or inorganic
• sunscreens preservatives, buffers, solvents, humectants, viscosity modifiers, alcohols, fats, oils, surfactants, fatty acids, silicone oils, moisturizers, emulsifiers,
• compositions may also include propellants such as propane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide,
• emollients refer to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. Wide
• compositions can optionally include inorganic and organic sunscreens as cosmetic ingredients that provide protection from the harmful
• compositions include from 0.1 to 10% and more preferably from 1 to 5% of an organic sunscreen.
• organic sunscreens include those set out in
• compositions may also contain an inorganic compound
• sunscreen which includes, but is not limited to titanium dioxide; zinc oxide, having an average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm; iron oxide, having an
• silica such as fumed silica, having an average particle size of from 1 to 100 nm.
• titanium dioxide that can be incorporated in the composition is from 1 to 25%, preferably from 2 to 10%, and ideally from 3 to 7%.
• anti-irritant agents into the claimed compositions.
• the natural anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents are preferred.
• licorice and its extracts dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, oat and oat extracts, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol,
• Additional skin benefit agents such as ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides, sphingolipids such as sphingomyelins, cerebrosides,
• sulphatides and ganglioside, sphingosines, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosines, and phospholipids, may also be incorporated into the claimed compositions, either separately or in mixtures.
• Fatty acids may also be
• glycoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,589,178,
• the pseudoceramides include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,198,210; 5,206,020; and 5,415,855.
• the rate of natural skin exfoliation may be increased by topical application to the skin of the claimed compositions.
• the present invention encompasses a
• composition comprising a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (salt) in an amount and for a period of time sufficient to increase the
• Vitamin E salt is N-(2-a rate of natural skin exfoliation.
• Vitamin E salt is N-(2-a rate of natural skin exfoliation.
• the topical composition is applied on at least a daily
• compositions of the present invention may be applied on a more regular basis with substantially reduced irritation to the skin. While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the
• compositions By applying the present compositions on a routine basis to the skin, within a few days, a user may notice improved skin texture and smoothness with reduced
• Table 3 sets forth a comparative study between the cell-renewal rates of a water-soluble Vitamin E derivative (VEP, a sodium-phosphate salt)
• VEP water-soluble Vitamin E derivative
• beneficial cell-renewal rates are achieved at surprisingly low sting
• exfoliating acids such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, and the alpha and beta hydroxycarboxylic acids, are commonly thought of
• compositions of the present invention can provide beneficial exfoliation rates above pH 4.5.
• desirable cell renewal rates are seen at pH of about 5.6 and higher, and at pH values of about 7.2 and higher. This is quite surprising because conventional exfoliating
• compositions of the present invention provide beneficial exfoliation above pH 4.5
• VEP is somewhat slower than Lactic Acid at cell-renewal, it is at least 4.5 times less irritating to the skin.
• pH 7.21 for example
• composition is about one-twentieth as irritating to the skin.
• present composition is about one-twentieth as irritating to the skin.
• the claimed compositions can reduce consumer perceived skin irritation (Sting %) by at least 25% and more preferably by at least 50% in relation to results
• compositions can be used more often and more regularly than conventional acid- based exfoliating compositions to improve the skin.
• conventional acid- based exfoliating compositions to improve the skin.
• compositions can provide an overall increase in the rate of skin cell- renewal when compared with compositions containing exfoliating acids because
• the claimed compositions can be applied more frequently with reduced irritation.
• Table 5 presents several examples of proposed emulsion, cream,

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

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• 2003
  • 2003-12-10 EP EP03814700A patent/EP1583514A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-12-10 KR KR1020057010882A patent/KR20050089045A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2003-12-10 WO PCT/US2003/039275 patent/WO2004060341A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2003-12-10 AU AU2003296454A patent/AU2003296454A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-12-10 JP JP2004565335A patent/JP2006514047A/ja active Pending

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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