EP1572146A1

EP1572146A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation containing an octadecene dicarbonic acid and a lightening agent

Info

Publication number: EP1572146A1
Application number: EP03792423A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Rainer Wolber; Christoph Smuda; Jan Batzer; Helga Biergiesser; Thomas Raschke; Heiner Max; Sven Beiersdorf Inc. FEY
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2002-08-22
Filing date: 2003-06-20
Publication date: 2005-09-14
Also published as: DE10238449A1; WO2004017935A1

Abstract

The invention concerns topical preparations containing 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarbonic acid and at least one other active agent selected among the group consisting of ursolic acid, the agouti peptide, a liquorice extract, hydrochinone, a green tea extract, arbutin, biotin, a mulberry tree extract (Uvae Ursi), glycyrrhizin, a placenta extract, an ascorbyl glucoside, endothelin antagonists derived from a camomile extract.

Description

COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATION CONTAINING OCTADECENDICARBOXYLIC ACID AND WHITENING AGENTS

The present invention relates to the use of active ingredients known per se for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin lightening or for preventing skin tanning, in particular skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and for lightening the natural hair color.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. unwanted pigmentation, e.g. local hyper- and deficient pigmentation (e.g. liver spots, freckles), inhibition of natural pigmentation, but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger areas of the skin, which are pigmented appropriately for the individual skin type.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin, which can be found in the lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes, in which the melanin is formed. When stimulated by UV radiation, among other things, melanin is increasingly formed. This is ultimately transported via the living layers of the epidermis (keratinocytes) into the horny layer (corneocytes) and causes a more or less pronounced brown to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process, in which tyrosine with the help of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the participation of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish one Phaeomelanin converted. DHICA and DHI melanin are produced via the common intermediate stages dopaquinone and dopachrome. The latter is implemented, partly with the participation of further enzymes, either in indole-5,6-quinone carboxylic acid or in indole-5,6-quinone, from which the two eumelanins mentioned arise. The formation of phaeomelanin occurs among other things via the intermediates dopaquinone and cysteinyldopa.

Similar to the pigmentation of the skin, melanin-producing melanocytes are also responsible for the hair color (pigmentation of the hair). The amount and composition of melanin in the hair determines the natural hair color, which is genetically determined.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes or are side effects of many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

The melanin-synthesizing enzymes are usually in an inhibited state; this inhibition is eliminated by solar, alpha or X-ray radiation, so that more melanin is formed. Conversely, the formation of melanin e.g. are artificially inhibited by hydroquinone benzyl ether so that such compounds counteract pigmentation. In mammals, melanotropin in the melanocytes stimulates the production of eumelanins. The agouti signal protein restricts the synthesis of the entire melanins and rather stimulates that of the pheomelanins by acting as an antagonist on the MSH receptor (melanocortin receptor 1).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. Preparations based on hydroquinone are essentially in practical use, but some of them only show their effect after several weeks of use, the excessive use of which is also of concern for toxicological reasons. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages. To lighten the hair color, strong prooxidative processes are usually used, which can severely damage the hair. The bleaching of hair with hydrogen peroxide is particularly well known here.

To remedy this problem was the object of the present invention.

8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid) is a metabolite of yeast cells of the Candida strain. It is characterized by the following structure:

HOOC.

"COOH

HOOC ^ ^ - ^ ^^ ^^ \ = - ^ ^^ \ - "\ ^" COOH A fatty acid of purely vegetable origin serves as the starting substance. This is converted into the hydroxy fatty acid, which is then oxidized to the fatty acid aldehyde and ultimately to the dicarboxy acid. The yeast cells come from selected mutant strains. The commercial product has a purity of 95%. 8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present as a mixture of the ice and trans isomers, the cis isomer predominating in terms of quantity. Oleic acid can be contained in the product at a concentration of approximately 3%.

Ursolic acid is a triterpene carboxylic acid that is found in numerous plants such as bearberry leaves, in the wax coating of apples, pears, in the fruit peel of rice or blueberries, in spice or medicinal plants such as rosemary, sage, thyme, marjoram, hawthorn, lemon balm and also in different types of vegetables. It is believed to have anticarcinogenic effects.

The Agouti signal protein was first isolated from Central American rodents (Agoutis from the Dasyproctidae family, occurs in approximately 20 species in the forests of Central America) in its murine and human form. WO-97/00892 discloses a skin-lightening effect of these forms.

Licorice is a woody perennial that grows to a height of around 1 to 1.5 meters. The plant takes its name from the sweet taste of its roots. The licorice root extract is also called liquorice. Licorice was used in ancient Egypt as a medicinal plant for diseases of the upper respiratory tract. In India and China, liquorice is traditionally used and cultivated as a medicinal herb with an antispasmodic effect. Licorice has a beneficial effect on the ejection, anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic and is therefore mainly used for coughing and stomach irritation. Studies have also identified a component of licorice root that is considered effective in hepatitis C. The liquorice root extract contains 3-8% glycyrrhizin (ammonium and calcium salts of glycyrrhizic acid (20 ß-carboxy-11-oxo-30-norolean-12-en-3ß-yl-2-0-ß-D-glucopyranuronoxyl-α-D -glucopyranosiduronic acid)), which causes the sweet taste. Glycyrrhizin (C ₄₂ H ₆₂ 0 ₁₆ ) is about 150 times sweeter than cane sugar and hydrolyzes to the aglycone glycyrrhetic acid (C ₃ oH ₆ 0 ₄ ) and two molecules of glucuronic acid. Other ingredients are coumarins, flavonoids, various sugars, resins and sterols

Hydroquinone is used as an antioxidant, as a photo developer and as a polymerization inhibitor. In nature it occurs in leaf buds of the pear and in blackberry leaves.

In Japan, green tea has a tradition of almost two thousand years. He is attributed a positive effect on health. Due to the gentle processing, the ingredients carotenoids, caffeine, vitamins A, B2, B12, C and E, secondary plant substances such as polyphenols, flavonoids, saponins are preserved in this tea variant. Drunk regularly, green tea is said to strengthen the immune system and even protect against cancer. Green tea extract can be used for topical application.

Arbutin occurs naturally in bearberry, cranberry and blueberry and acts as an antioxidant. Chemically, it is hydroquinone-ß-D-glucopyranoside. It prevents the development of the skin pigment melanin by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase.

Biotin (D-cis-hexahydro-2-oxothieno [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid) is also known as coenzyme R and is involved in carboxylation reactions in the organism. It is synthesized by the human intestinal flora. It is used to treat seborrheic dermatitis in young children.

Bearberry Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (whitebeam, cranberry, sandberry, Wider boxwood, wolf grape) belongs to the heather family. and is widespread in Europe and America. The dried, whole or cut leaves had a high content of hydroquinone derivatives: up to 12, occasionally up to 15% phenol glycosides, including in particular arbutin and methylarbutin as well as other hydroquinone derivatives (gallic acid esters of arbutin, free hydroquinone). They have antibacterial activity against various microorganisms and are used to prepare tea for inflammatory diseases.

Placenta extracts are used in the manufacture of cosmetic products. These are lipoid or water soluble extracts from animal placents. These extracts (usage concentration 2-5%) have a regenerating influence on aging skin or skin damaged by strong solar radiation and are said to stimulate hair growth.

Ascorbyl glucoside is a synthetic ascorbic acid derivative and can be described as a precursor of ascorbic acid. The active ascorbic acid is released e.g. enzymatically in the cells or biological tissues. Chemically, this is ascorbic acid-2- ß-D-glucopyranoside. The glycosylation in the 2-position of the enol function of the ascorbic acid leads, just like the introduction of the phosphate protective group at this position (ascorbyl phosphate), to an increase in stability against degradation reactions in aqueous solution. The corresponding ascorbic acid 3-ß-D-glucopyranoside is also known and increases the stability of the ascorbic acid before chemical degradation.

Chamomile extract contains substances that act as endothelin antagonists. Endothelin indirectly activates skin pigmentation via the endothelin receptor by enhancing UV-B-induced skin tanning. Pigment Cell Res. 10: 218-228, 1997 describes the depigmenting effect of various endothelin antagonists (e.g. chamomile extract). However, this publication could not point the way to the present invention.

Water-soluble flavonoids such as alpha glucosyl rutin are described as whitening active ingredients in JP 08099859, JP 6321759, but these publications could not point the way to the present invention.

MSH antagonists inhibit the melanogenesis-promoting effect of the α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (-MSH). Competitive inhibitory peptide derivatives of the active α-MSH sequence (His-Phe-Arg-Trp) are easily accessible to the person skilled in the art via peptide synthesis. Other physiological MSH antagonists are the products of the agouti locus (see there) or the γ3-MSH.

PH blockers are substances that block the ATP-dependent proton pump in melanosomes and thus prevent the pH value required for melanogenesis to be reduced to 3-5 (JID 105: 3-7, 1995) Publication does not point the way to the present invention. Such pH blockers are, for example, the compounds 2,4-dinitrophenol and carbonylcyanide-p-trifluoromethoxyphenylhydrazone.

So far, nothing has been known about the use of all these substances in combination with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that topical preparations containing 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid and at least one further active ingredient selected from the group ursolic acid, agouti peptides, licorice root extract, hydroquinone, green tea extract, arbutin, biotin, Mulberry extract (Uvae Ursii), glycyrrhizin, placenta extract, ascorbyl glucoside, endothelin antagonists, MSH antagonists, pH blockers help to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.

All of these combinations work synergistically with regard to the individual components. The amount of depigmenting agents used in depigmenting preparations can therefore be reduced. In addition, a combination of these substances can achieve a more uniform, lighter skin tone.

It is particularly preferred if 8Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations , is present.

Furthermore, it is particularly preferred if the further active ingredient in a total concentration of 0.001-3% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations , is present.

It is preferred to use preparations according to the invention against undesired pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders or against undesired pigmentation of the hair and / or for lightening the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of its enantiomers.

8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid and at least one further active ingredient specified above, hereinafter referred to as “active ingredient according to the invention”, has proven to be outstandingly effective against unwanted pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation, as well as against skin tanning caused by UV radiation, both preventively and in the sense of treatment. However, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, that is to say for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The skin-lightening effect of ascorbyl glucoside is known and is described in EP 478404. In contrast to pure ascorbic acid, the glucoside is stable on storage and can therefore be advantageously combined with dioic acid.

The depigmenting activity of short oligopeptides (length 4-9 amino acids) from the active sequences pos. 42-48 (SMNSLDFSS) and in particular pos. 83-89 (WRPRTP) of the human agouti signal protein was also described. The peptides and also effective derivatives of these peptides (Exchange of individual amino acids, stabilization through acetylation and amidation) can easily be produced synthetically or biotechnologically.

Advantageous agouti peptides in the sense of the invention are one or more monomeric or homo- or heterodimeric or homo- or heterotrimeric or homo- or heterotetrameric oligopeptides,

(1) a structure of these oligopeptides as homo- or heteromonomers

Underlying Val-Val-Arg-Pro (or WRP),

(2) or where in the monomeric or homo- or heterodimeric or homo- or heterotrimeric or homo- or heterotetrameric oligopeptides there are structures as mentioned above with the difference that the C-terminus and / or the N-

Terminus is supplemented by up to 5 amino acids, according to the structure

where Ψ and Ω can independently represent amino acid sequences of up to 5 amino acids,

(3) or wherein in monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins with a molecular weight between approx. 0.5 and 100 kDalton under the points (1) and (2) given as amino acid sequences structural motifs that are simply present or that repeat themselves repeatedly occur,

(4) or wherein the monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins are acylated at the N-terminus, according to the structure

C-NH-Ψ— Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω— C /

R OH

where Ψ and Ω independently of one another amino acid sequences of up to 5

Can represent amino acids and R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

(5) or wherein the monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins are amidated at the C-terminus, according to the structure

H ₂ N — Ψ— Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω — C °

^V N— R '

I R "

where Ψ and Ω can independently represent amino acid sequences of up to 5 amino acids, and wherein R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

(6) or where the monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins are amidated at the C-terminus and acylated at the N-terminus, according to the structure

where Ψ and Ω can independently represent amino acid sequences of up to 5 amino acids, R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical having 41 to 30 carbon atoms, and wherein R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the Group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

(7) or wherein amino acid sequences occur in monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins as single-present or repetitive structural motifs, according to the structures

Λ O

H ₂ N - ψ Val - Val-Arg - Pro -Ω - C n ° ^H

O

^X C-NH-ψ -Val— Val-Arg— Pro -Ω— C *

H ₂ N— Ψ - {- Val— Val-Arg— Pro -Ω— C

R "

where Ψ can represent a single bond or an amino acid sequence up to 5 amino acids, Ω can represent an amino acid sequence up to 15 amino acids, n represents a number from 1 to 25, R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and where R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

An advantageous embodiment of the agouti peptides according to the invention is also considered to be one or more monomeric or homo- or heterodimeric or homo- or heterotrimeric or homo- or heterotetrameric oligopeptides,

(1) a structure of these oligopeptides as homo- or heteromonomers

Underlying Val-Val-Arg-Pro (or WRP),

(2) or where structures as mentioned above are present in the monomeric or homo- or heterodimeric or homo- or heterotrimeric or homo- or heterotetrameric oligopeptides with the difference that the C-terminus and / or the N-terminus are up to 5 Amino acids are supplemented, according to the structure

H ₂ N — Ψ— Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω — C _s P

^S OH

(4) or wherein the monomeric or homo- / hetero-di-, -tri-, or tetrameric oligopeptides or proteins are acylated at the N-terminus, according to the structure Ok

C-NH-Ψ— Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω— C- '

R OH

where Ψ and Ω can independently represent amino acid sequences of up to 5 amino acids and R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

H ₂ N— Ψ- Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω — C _χ

^X N - R 'l R "

where Ψ and Ω independently of one another amino acid sequences of up to 5

Can represent amino acids, and where R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

O O

C — NH — Ψ-Val— Val-Arg— Pro— Ω — CR ⁷ ^ N-R '

R "

where Ψ and Ω can independently represent amino acid sequences of up to 5 amino acids, R is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical with 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and wherein R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms.

O w .O

C-NH-Ψ + Val-Val-Arg-Pro-i-Ω-C

R OH

O, O

C-NH-ψ-HVal-Val-Arg-Pro-j-Ω-C

R "

where Ψ can represent a single bond or an amino acid sequence up to 5 amino acids, Ω can represent an amino acid sequence up to 15 amino acids, n represents a number from 1 to 25, R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkyl radical with 1 represents up to 30 carbon atoms, and where R 'and R "can be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen and the branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in particular the alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, against unwanted pigmentation of the skin.

The amino acid sequences which supplement the peptide sequence at the C or N terminus, if desired, are preferably composed of proteinogenic amino acids.

Table 1 compares the proteinogenic amino acids with their corresponding three and one letter codes.

Table: Three and one letter codes for amino acids

amino acid

L-Alanine Ala A

L-Valine Val V

L-Leucine Leu L

L-isoleucine III

L-Proline Pro P

L-tryptophan type W

L-phenylalanine Phe F

L-methionine Met M

Glycine Gly G

L-Serin Ser S

L-tyrosine Tyr Y

L-threonine Thr T

L-cysteine Cys C

L-Asparagine Asn N

L-glutamine gin Q L-Aspartic Acid Asp D

L-glutamic acid Glu E

L-Lysine Lys K

L-arginine Arg R

L-histidine His H

The L-selenocysteine can replace the L-cysteine and the L-selenomethionine the L-methionine. In addition, individual, several or even all positions can also be replaced by the appropriately D-configured stereoisomers.

According to the invention, the oligopeptides Val-Val-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro are particularly advantageous.

The products acylated at the N-terminus and / or amidated at the C-terminus of the oligopeptides Val-Val-Arg-Pro, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro are particularly advantageous according to the invention ,

Preferred are those acylated oligopeptides that are acylated at the N terminus with unbranched alkanoyl groups.

Are particularly preferred

° XX C-NH-Val— Val— Arg— Pro— C _N

R ^{7 N} OH as well

O.

\\ ,, O

C-NH-Val- Val- Arg- Pro- Pro- C

R OH

where R represents the stearoyl or the palmitoyl radical. Amino acid sequences or oligopeptides to be used according to the invention are advantageously obtainable by customary, for example also automated, methods (for example via so-called peptide synthesizers).

Individual peptides can, for example, advantageously with the aid of an automatic MilliGen 9050 peptide synthesizer, overlapping peptides with the aid of a multiple peptide synthesizer SMPS 350 (ZINSSER analytics) by solid phase synthesis (RBMerrifield (1966) J.Am.Chem.Soc. 85, 2149) according to Fmoc / But strategy (E. Atherton, RCSheppard; "Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis: A Practical Approach", IRL Press, Oxford, England (1989).

Coupling and splitting steps can be controlled using on-line UV monitoring. A p-alkoxybenzyl alcohol-modified polystyrene resin (S.-S. Wang; J. Am. Chem. Soc. 95 (1973), p. 1328), for peptide amides, can advantageously be used as the solid phase matrix for free peptides, for example the Rink amide resin ( H.Rink; Tetrahedron Lett. 28 (1987), p.3787) can be used. TBTU (2- (1 H-benzotriatol-1-yl) -1, 1,3,3-tetramethyluronium tetrafluoroborate) (R. Knorr, A. Trzeciak, W.Bannwarth, D. Gillesen; Tetrahedron Lett. 30 (1989), p. 1927) can be used. Usual coupling times are 10 - 30, in particular approx. 20 minutes. After the synthesis has ended, the peptides can be cleaved from the resin, for example with the help of trifluoroacetic acid and, if desired, additional substances (e.g. phenol, thioanisole, but also water) and at the same time freed from all protective groups.

The reaction solution can e.g. by dropping in ice-cold diethyl ether to give a crude product which, if desired while washing with a suitable washing liquid, e.g. cold diethyl ether, can be cleaned and then lyophilized. The crude peptide is then advantageously obtained by preparative reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) on a C18 column (250 × 10 mm) using an acetonitrile / 0.05% trifluoroacetic acid / water system to a purity of> 98 % highly cleaned.

By reacting the N-terminal deprotected resin-bound peptides with acid chlorides or acid anhydrides (e.g. palmitoyl chloride or lauryl chloride) in a suitable solvent (e.g. dimethylformamide / N-methylmorpholine), peptides acylated at the N-terminus can be obtained in high yields. The cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable oligopeptides used according to the invention, hereinafter, regardless of whether a single substance or an isomer mixture or a mixture of different individual substances is present, collectively also called “active substance used according to the invention”, have proven to be excellent active substances against undesired pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation, and both preventively and in the sense of treatment.

According to the invention, the content of active ingredient used according to the invention in the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations can be 1 ppb (= 1 part per billion = 10 ^"7 % by weight) - 10% by weight, preferably 10 ppb (= 0.01 ppm = 0 , 01 parts per million = 10 ^"6 % by weight) - 5% by weight, in particular 0.05 ppm - 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas. It has surprisingly been found that the active ingredient according to the invention fulfills the objects on which the invention is based. The active ingredient according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / V), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick, a transdermal therapeutic system or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible and advantageous to use the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations Insert cleaning and care of the skin and hair. This includes shower gels, shampoos but also conditioners, hair care treatments, hair rinses, hair tonics, sprays etc.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of molecular adducts with cyclodextrins. It is believed that the cyclodextrin skeletons act as the host molecule and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid as the guest molecule. For the preparation, cyclodextrins are dissolved in water and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is added. The molecular adduct then precipitates as a solid and can be subjected to the usual cleaning and preparation steps. It is known that cyclodextrin-guest complexes in an appropriate solvent (e.g. water) are in equilibrium between the specific guest-cyclodextrin complex and the dissociated form, it being possible for cyclodextrin and guest to be separated to a certain extent. Such balance systems are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes. Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to add the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, composition substances, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the sense of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate ( 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate) methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate). Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ), zirconium (Zr0 ₂ ), silicon ( Si0 ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizers can advantageously be added to these pre-dispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained, for example. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) e, sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 Dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4- bis- (2-benzimidazyI) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer; Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanammonium salt, and sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the

Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) - bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo - [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.- No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemie GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S;

Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150. An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] - phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ and UV filters bound to polymers.

^■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example under the trade name Parsol SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyIacrylat (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul N 539 ^®. Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-meth-oxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4, bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'- tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- Ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual constituents a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg uro- canic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, retinoids such as for example retinol, retinal and / or retinoic acid and the respective esters, α-lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N Acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (Esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (Metal) Chelators (e.g. -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ -Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, -2-aminopropionic acid diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, and ascorbyl acetate) Derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannic acid and its derivatives Derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS04) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

Water or aqueous solutions

- Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably

Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products ,

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyl palylate, Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C-ι _{_2-15} -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12th _15- Alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Ci2- 5-alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

Gels used in the present invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels, and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters. Lip care sticks and stick formulations for body deodorization are preferably used.

Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (eg camauba wax, candelilla wax).

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customarily known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would fundamentally be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other associated circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons ( CFC).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and the solvents usually used therefor, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic compounds thickener, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Preparations according to the invention, which represent hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for the hair or the scalp, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary agents, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations at a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.

In particular, aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-poor or anhydrous cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning may contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g. Fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates, amidosulfobetaines, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines, fatty acid amide glycol amines and polyglycol amides.

Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight. For example, Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Henkel or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucoside as it is offered by the company Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10 or polysorbate 80 as it is offered by the company ICI under the name Tween 80.

Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goldschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc.

The percentages relate to the total weight of the preparations. Conditioning aids may also be present in the hair cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are often used in shampoos, for example with a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight. These include polyquaternium-10 as it is offered under the name Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as it is offered with the name Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes,

Anti-foaming substances, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, lipid-replenishing agents,

Fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically acceptable ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, consistency enhancers, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, antistatic agents, UV Absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents,

Polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Solution brokers, e.g. for incorporation more hydrophobic

Components such as of perfume preparations can be included.

The total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or bases, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, for example based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer mixtures. The pH is preferably below 10, for example in the range 4-8, in particular in the range 5-7. Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and others Thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ- Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone - , Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), -hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) ), Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, - Glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, Nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances. Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixtures. An oil-soluble licorice root extract available from Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Ltd. was used as the licorice root extract. This is characterized by a particularly pronounced synergistic effect with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid. Betspiele

Examples 1-10: O / W creams

Example 11: W / O cream

Example 12: Hydrodispersion / Gel Cream

Sample recipes foundations

Sample formulations of microemulsions

Examples Pickering

Examples W / O pens

Sample recipes foundations

Claims

claims:

1. Topical preparations containing 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid and at least one further active ingredient selected from the group ursolic acid, agouti peptides, licorice root extract, hydroquinone, green tea extract, arbutin, biotin, mulberry extract (Uvae Ursii), glycyrrhizin, placenta extract , Ascorbyl glucosides, endothelin

Antagonists from camomile extract.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the further active ingredient in a total concentration of 0.001-3% by weight, preferably 0.005-1% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

4. Use of preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 2 against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

5. Use of preparations according to at least one of claims 1 and 2 against unwanted pigmentation of the hair and / or for lightening the hair.