DE10150732A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological compositions useful for e.g. reducing skin and hair pigmentation comprise one or more antioxidants and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise one or more antioxidants and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of active substances known per se for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin lightening or Prevention of skin tanning, especially those caused by UV radiation Skin tanning and for lightening the natural hair color.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and treatment cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as B. the unwanted Pigmentation, for example local hyper and incorrect pigmentations (for example Moles, freckles), inhibition of natural pigmentation, but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger, individual skin types adequately pigmented skin areas.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin lowest layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type either isolated or more or less heaped occurring pigment-forming cells can be found. Melanocytes contain as characteristic cell organelles melanosomes, in which the melanin is formed. When stimulated by UV radiation, among other things, melanin is increasingly formed. This is ultimately reflected in the living layers of the epidermis (keratinocytes) the horny layer (corneocytes) transports and calls one more or less pronounced brownish to brown-black skin color. Melanin is considered Final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is involved the enzyme tyrosinase through several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the participation of sulfur-containing compounds converted to reddish pheomelanin. DHICA and DHI melanin are produced via the common intermediate stages dopaquinone and dopachrome. The latter, partly with the participation of other enzymes, implemented either in indole-5,6-quinone carboxylic acid or in indole-5,6-quinone, from which the two eumelanins mentioned arise. The emergence of Phaeomelanin runs inter alia via the intermediates dopaquinone and Cysteinyl.

Similar to the pigmentation of the skin are for the hair color (pigmentation of the hair) also responsible for melanin-producing melanocytes. The amount and composition of the melanin in the hair determines the natural Hair color that is genetically determined.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes Side effects of many biological processes, e.g. B. UV radiation (e.g. Freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active ingredients and preparations are known which are used for skin pigmentation counteract. In practical use, there are essentially preparations on the The basis of hydroquinone, which, however, only takes several weeks Application show their effect, their excessive use on the other hand is of concern for toxicological reasons. Also the inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their Derivatives are common, but have cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The hair color is usually healed using highly prooxidative processes applied, which can severely damage the hair. Above all, the is known here Bleaching hair with hydrogen peroxide.

To remedy this problem was the object of the present invention.

8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic Acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid) is a metabolite of yeast cells of the Candida strain. It is characterized by the following structure:

A fatty acid of purely vegetable origin serves as the starting substance. This is converted into the hydroxy fatty acid, which then becomes the fatty acid aldehyde and is ultimately oxidized to dicarboxy acid. The yeast cells come from selected mutant strains. The commercial product has a purity of 95%. 8th- Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid is a mixture of cis and trans Isomers before, the cis isomer predominating in terms of quantity. Oleic acid can in contained in the product at a concentration of approximately 3%.

α-Lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure as a sulfur-containing fatty acid was elucidated.

Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can use α-lipoic acid in their metabolism self-manufacture, the question of own biosynthesis is still open to humans.

α-Lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensitivity disorder Hands and feet used as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α- Lipoic acid per day leads to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, this leads to better nerve conductivity and therefore less Numbness and reflex failures.

α-Lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver values and promotes the healing of the Hepatitis. Most foods contain small amounts of α-lipoic acid, only relatively high values can be found in meat. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid has strong antioxidant properties.

WO 97/10808 and US Pat. No. 5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of the α- Lipoic acid described against symptoms of skin aging. DE 42 42 876 describes drug combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or the Skin appendages and cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, containing such active ingredient combinations.

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the active ingredient combinations from α-lipoic acid and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid contain the disadvantages of the prior art Help technology. It is advantageous if α-lipoic acid or vegetable and animal extracts containing the same, in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, and 8- Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, is present in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. The invention also includes Use of such cosmetic or dermatological preparations against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of Pigmentation. Furthermore, the combination of active ingredients mentioned unwanted pigmentation of the hair diminished and thus a lightening of the Brought about hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of them To use enantiomers.

α-Lipoic acid in combination with 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively too "Active ingredient combination according to the invention" or "Active ingredient according to the invention" has proven to be extremely effective against unwanted pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation and against UV radiation induced skin tanning, both preventively and in the sense of a treatment, proved. However, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention that according to the invention used active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of unwanted skin pigmentation, for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines or seniles to use postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the Active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the invention Active ingredient used is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the Active ingredient combination according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the invention used active ingredient is applied to the affected skin. It has surprisingly turned out that the invention Active ingredient combination fulfills the objects on which the invention is based. The Active substance combinations according to the invention work in all of these uses synergistic with respect to the individual components.

The active ingredient combination according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated in usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which in can take various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, a Water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or Lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick, a transdermal therapeutic System or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are beneficial and contain z. B. fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or several emulsifiers, as are customary for such a type of Wording used.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or Add surfactant preparations for cleaning and care of the skin and hair. This includes shower gels, shampoos but also conditioners, Hair care treatments, hair rinses, hair tonics, sprays etc.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, Insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of molecular adducts to use cyclodextrins. It is believed that the Cyclodextrin skeletons as the host molecule and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid as Guest molecule act. For the preparation, cyclodextrins are dissolved in water and 8- Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid added. The molecular adduct then falls as Solid and can do the usual cleaning and preparation steps be subjected. It is known that cyclodextrin guest complexes in one corresponding solvents (e.g. water) are in equilibrium between the specific guest-cyclodextrin complex and the dissociated form, whereby Cyclodextrin and guest can be separated to a certain extent. Such Equilibrium systems are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding formulation requirements apply medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, it becomes a clear distinction between cosmetic ones and medical application and corresponding products to the legal Provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient used according to the invention as Add an additive to preparations that already have other active ingredients for others Purposes included.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example can be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sun protection lotion, Nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous, the compositions of the invention as a basis for to use pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against Sunlight is, but still contains other UV protection substances contain. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well Antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the Preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain within the meaning of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The Formulations may, although not necessary, also include an or contain several organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions are present, which a water phase and at least one UV filter substance that is liquid at room temperature included as another phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances liquid at room temperature in the sense of present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INGI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Octyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be in the form commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions are used. These predispersions can advantageously be dispersing agents and / or Solubilization promoters may be added.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The various surface coatings can be used in the sense of the present Invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal Stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with a average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or Alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can be used alone, in combination and / or occur in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4- di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• - 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• - 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4, 6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also that 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is described under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, which is sold under the trade name Mexoryl® XL by Chimex is available.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter;
• - 3-(4-(2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxan/Dimethylsiloxan;
• - Copolymer, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Parsol® SLX bei Hoffmann La Roche erhältlich ist.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone - and UV filters bound to polymers;
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane;
• - Copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Another light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is the ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are: are characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention preferably also contain further UV-A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4-bis- (2- benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, each individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which Absorb radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or skin before protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as they usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for Prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect Thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, plasticizers, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological Formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is also advantageous to use the preparations for the purposes of the present invention Add usual antioxidants. According to the invention can be as cheap Antioxidants all suitable for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or common antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, retinoids such as retinol, retinal and / or retinoic acid and the respective esters, α-lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl , Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thio dipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides , Lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, -2-aminopropionic acid diacetic acid, FIavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, ubiquinone and Ubiquinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and their derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Sele n and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous whose respective concentrations are in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

• - Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen;
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mitlsopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mitAlkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

• - water or aqueous solutions;
• - oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

In particular, mixtures of the above solvents used. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or Lipodispersions in the sense of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group the ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of aromatic esters Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n- Decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the Triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The Fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the Group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous use in the sense of the present invention. It can also if necessary be advantageous, waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole Use lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in To use sense of the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously have a cyclic or linear content Have silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although an additional content is preferred in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils to be used on other oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (Qctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention silicone oil to be used. But other silicone oils are also beneficial to use in the sense of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

Gels used according to the invention usually contain lower C- alcohols. Number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or a the aforementioned oil in the presence of a thickener, which at oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or Fatty acid ester. Lip care sticks and stick formulations are preferred Body deodorization used.

Common raw materials, which are for use as cosmetic pencils in the sense suitable for the present invention are liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, Castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid Components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or Ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, Candelilla).

As a propellant for cosmetic and / or sprayable from aerosol containers Dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention are the usual ones known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example Suitable hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), alone or in a mixture can be used together. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se that basically for the implementation of the present invention in the form of Aerosol preparations would be suitable, but nevertheless because of their questionable effect the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be avoided, especially fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be used as Gels are present in addition to an effective content of the invention Active ingredient and solvents usually used for this, preferably water organic thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, xanthan gum, Sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as Bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or -distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in a lot between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Preparations according to the invention, the hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for representing the hair or scalp can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and aids, as are usually used for this. The surface active Substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 94 wt .-% in the Cleaning preparations are present, based on the total weight of the preparations, but especially between 1 and 50 wt .-%.

In particular, aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or for aqueous cleaning certain low or anhydrous Detergent concentrates contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g. B. fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, Alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaines, Sarcosinates, amidosulfobetaines, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, Alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amido betaines, Contain fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.

Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight. used. For example, B. Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is under the Description Texapon N 70 is offered by the company Henkel or disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is called Rewopol SBFA 30 by the Witco is offered. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in Concentrations of 1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% used. Examples are decyl Glucoside as it under the name Oramix NS 10 from the company Seppic is offered or Polysorbate 80 as it is called Tween 80 from the ICI is offered. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight used. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaines such as Tego Betaine from the company Goldschmidt or Sodium Cocoamphoacetate as it is offered sold under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc becomes.

The percentages relate to the total weight of the preparations.

In addition, conditioning aids can be used in hair cosmetic cleaning agents be included, e.g. B. in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations. The preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are widely used in Shampoos e.g. B. used with a concentration of 0.01 to 2 wt .-%. This includes Polyquaternium-10 as it is called Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol is offered or hydroxypropyl guar such as hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride it is offered by the company Rhone-Poulenc with the designation Jaguar C 162 becomes.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as they are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, Perfumes, anti-foaming substances, foam stabilizers, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, refatting agents, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically acceptable ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched Hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, Consistency agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, antistatic agents, UV Absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, polymers, Electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Also solubilizers, e.g. B. for familiarization hydrophobic components such. B. of perfume preparations can be included.

The total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Preparation.

The water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the Preparation.

The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or Bases are adjusted, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, e.g. B. on Based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer mixtures.

Preferably the pH is below 10, e.g. B. in the range of 4-8, especially in Range from 5-7.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixtures. Examples 1. O / W cream

2. O / W cream



3. W / O emulsions



4. W / O emulsions



5. Hydrodispersions



6. Gel cream



7. W / O cream

8. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo



9. Clear conditioner shampoo

10. Clear light shampoo with volume effect

Claims (4)

1. Containing cosmetic or dermatological preparations Active ingredient combinations of α-lipoic acid as well as vegetable and animal Extracts containing the same in combination with 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid. 2. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that α-lipoic acid and vegetable and animal extracts the same contained in cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2.0 wt .-% based on the total weight of the Preparations, present and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in one Total concentration 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present. 3. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1 to 2 against unwanted pigmentation the skin and / or to treat pigmentation disorders. 4. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations after at least one of claims 1 to 2 against unwanted pigmentation of the hair and / or for lightening the hair.