EP1496844A1 - Preparations de lavage cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant au moins un derive d'amidon pregelatinise a reticulation transversale et au moins une huile ethoxylee - Google Patents

Preparations de lavage cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant au moins un derive d'amidon pregelatinise a reticulation transversale et au moins une huile ethoxylee

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Publication number
EP1496844A1
EP1496844A1 EP03724946A EP03724946A EP1496844A1 EP 1496844 A1 EP1496844 A1 EP 1496844A1 EP 03724946 A EP03724946 A EP 03724946A EP 03724946 A EP03724946 A EP 03724946A EP 1496844 A1 EP1496844 A1 EP 1496844A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
peg
oil
sodium
weight
glycerides
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03724946A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stephan Ruppert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1496844A1 publication Critical patent/EP1496844A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D17/00—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties
    • C11D17/0008—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties aqueous liquid non soap compositions
    • C11D17/003—Colloidal solutions, e.g. gels; Thixotropic solutions or pastes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K31/715—Polysaccharides, i.e. having more than five saccharide radicals attached to each other by glycosidic linkages; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ethers, esters
    • A61K31/716—Glucans
    • A61K31/718—Starch or degraded starch, e.g. amylose, amylopectin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/66—Non-ionic compounds
    • C11D1/667—Neutral esters, e.g. sorbitan esters
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/66—Non-ionic compounds
    • C11D1/74—Carboxylates or sulfonates esters of polyoxyalkylene glycols
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/16—Organic compounds
    • C11D3/20—Organic compounds containing oxygen
    • C11D3/22—Carbohydrates or derivatives thereof
    • C11D3/222—Natural or synthetic polysaccharides, e.g. cellulose, starch, gum, alginic acid or cyclodextrin
    • C11D3/228—Natural or synthetic polysaccharides, e.g. cellulose, starch, gum, alginic acid or cyclodextrin with phosphorus- or sulfur-containing groups
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/29—Sulfates of polyoxyalkylene ethers

Definitions

  • Cosmetic and dermatological detergent preparations containing one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives and one or more ethoxylated oils
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning agents. Such means are known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.
  • Cleaning means the removal of (environmental) dirt and thus increases the psychological and physical well-being.
  • Cleaning the surface of skin and hair is a very complex process that depends on many parameters.
  • substances coming from outside such as hydrocarbons or inorganic pigments from a wide variety of environments, as well as residues from cosmetics or undesired microorganisms, should be removed as completely as possible.
  • the body's excretions such as sweat, sebum, skin and hair flakes can be washed off without deep intervention in the physiological balance.
  • PAWI / 2002/202-XL Wi03 products in contrast to most technical cleaning agents - the skin and mucous membrane compatibility absolutely in the foreground; the products should be "mild”.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations are so-called “rinse off” preparations, which are rinsed off the skin after use. They are usually applied in the form of a foam with water to the parts of the body to be cleaned. All cosmetic or dermatological cleaning products are based on detergent surfactants.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. They are characterized by an ambivalent behavior towards water and lipids: the surfactant molecule contains at least one hydrophilic and one lipophilic group, which enable it to attach to the interface between these two classes of substances.
  • surfactants ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, easier removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - also for foam regulation. This provides the basis for removing dirt from lipid-containing soiling.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues.
  • Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They are positive in a strongly acidic environment and negative in an alkaline environment. dung. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • the detergent surfactants in cosmetic and dermatological cleaning agents are subject to a very critical assessment with regard to their dermatological and ecological behavior. The latter is particularly important because they are used in considerable quantities and are discharged as intended after use.
  • the horny layer of the skin swells.
  • the degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature.
  • water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer.
  • Skin oils are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to dry out subsequently.
  • detersive surfactants which are intended to clean the skin and hair of greasy and water-soluble dirt components, also have a degreasing effect on normal skin lipids. Every time the skin is cleaned, intercomomeocytic lipids and sebum components are also removed to different degrees. This means that the natural water-lipid coat of the skin is more or less disturbed with every wash. This can lead to a brief change in the barrier cause the skin to function, although the condition of the treated skin region is of course also of considerable influence on the changes shown. For example, the thickness of the skin, the number of sebum and sweat glands and the sensitivity associated with it can vary considerably.
  • wash-active surfactants are as inactive as possible in order to avoid undesirable side effects. They should develop their cleaning effect with optimal mildness, best skin compatibility and low degreasing.
  • cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations are very well tailored to an assumed range of applications, since the mechanical parameters, such as the time factor, which vary depending on the application, are of particular importance for a defined, mild cleaning effect.
  • the mechanical parameters such as the time factor, which vary depending on the application, are of particular importance for a defined, mild cleaning effect.
  • Cosmetic cleaning agents usually contain mixtures of different types of surfactants. The selection is primarily based on skin tolerance and the desired cosmetic performance of the surfactants. In addition, foaming power, formulability and a favorable performance / cost ratio play an important role.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic cleaning agents in the form of shaped soap products. Such means are known per se. These are essentially surface-active substances or mixtures of substances that are offered to the consumer in various preparations.
  • the invention relates in particular to bar soaps with improved smoothness and increased lime soap dispersing capacity due to a content of talc and one or more amphoteric surfactants with the simultaneous absence of alkyl (oligo) glycosides.
  • the main components are the alkali salts of the fatty acids of natural oils and. Fat, preferably of chain lengths C 12 -C 18 . Since lauric acid soaps foam particularly well, the lauric acid-rich coconut and palm kernel oils are preferred raw materials for fine soap production.
  • the sodium salts of the fatty acid mixtures are solid, the potassium salts are soft-pasty.
  • the dilute sodium or potassium hydroxide solution is added to the fat raw materials in a stoichiometric ratio in such a way that an excess of lye of at most 0.05% is present in the finished soap. In many cases, soaps are no longer made directly from fats, but from the fatty acids obtained through fat splitting.
  • Common soap additives are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, lanolin, lecithin, vegetable oils, partial glycerides and other fat-like substances for regreasing the cleansed skin, antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate or tocopherol to prevent the autoxidation of soap (rancidity), complexing agents such as nitrilotriac Binding of heavy metal traces that could catalyze autoxidative spoilage, perfume oils to achieve the desired fragrance notes, dyes to color the soap bars and, if required, special additives.
  • Cream soaps with particularly high proportions of lipid-replenishing and skin-creaming substances are particularly high proportions of lipid-replenishing and skin-creaming substances;
  • Baby soaps with good regreasing and additional nourishing components such as B. chamomile extracts, at most very slightly perfumed;
  • the present invention relates to liquid soaps or washing lotions.
  • Such products are not only used to clean the hands, but usually also for the whole body, including the face. Accordingly, they are also suitable for use as a shower preparation.
  • the development of these products focuses on the dermatological requirements, since the skin comes into intensive contact with the concentrated surfactant solution. Special emphasis is therefore placed on the selection of mild surfactants in low concentrations. Further criteria are good foaming power as well as a pleasant, refreshing fragrance and the simultaneous care of the skin.
  • Washing lotions and shower baths in particular generally have viscosities of around 3,000 to 10,000 mPa-s, which on the one hand allow the product to be easily distributed with quick foaming, but on the other hand should be high enough to enable perfect use by hand or washcloth ,
  • Liquid soaps or washing lotions are generally characterized by a more or less high water content, but usually do not have a noticeable care effect, since they have only a low oil content.
  • the present invention relates to a relatively new technical development, namely shower preparations containing surfactants with a high oil content.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift 44 24 210 describes cosmetic or dermatological shower preparations with a surfactant content of at most 55% by weight and an oil content of more than 45% by weight, the preparations being essentially water-free. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition. At the same time, they have good foam development and high cleaning power.
  • WO 96/17591 describes foaming liquid skin cleaning compositions which contain the following substances: 5 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing active ingredient which has a Vaughan Solubility Parameter (VSP) of 5 to 10, 0.3 to 5% by weight. % of a water-dispersible gel-forming polymer, 5 to 30% by weight of a synthetic surface-active substance, 0 to 15% by weight of a C 8 to C 14 fatty acid soap and water, the preparations having a lipid deposition value (LDV) of at least 5 to 1000 and wherein the synthetic surfactant and the soap have a common CMC equilibrium surface tension value of 15 to 50.
  • VSP Vaughan Solubility Parameter
  • the present invention also relates to cleaning products based on emulsions. These are formulated in such a way that the emulsion is stabilized with emulsifiers and then a surfactant system is adapted.
  • Emulsifiers also have an amphiphilic structure, so their structure is comparable to that of surfactants. Emulsifiers enable or facilitate the uniform distribution of two or more immiscible phases and at the same time prevent their separation. Since emulsions are generally destroyed by the addition of surfactants, the choice of surfactant system is severely restricted and the cleaning preparations obtained are based on expensive and complicated formulations.
  • HLB value a dimensionless number between 0 and 20
  • HLB value application area a so-called HLB value application area
  • the HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed can be found in tables.
  • HLB values can also be determined for wash-active surfactants in this way, although the HLB system was originally only designed for emulsifiers. It can be seen that wash-active substances generally have HLB values that are significantly greater than 20.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide cleaning preparations based on emulsions which remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and which are accordingly based on simple and inexpensive formulations.
  • the preparations should also have a high care effect without detracting from the cleaning effect.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological cleaning preparations in the form of gels
  • Cosmetic gels are extremely popular with consumers. Since they are mostly transparent, often colored, but should also be so often colorlessly clear, they offer the cosmetic developer additional design options, some of which have a functional character, but some of which only serve to improve the external appearance. For example, the product, which is then usually presented to the viewer in a transparent packaging, can be given interesting optical effects by incorporated color pigments, gas bubbles and the like, or else larger objects. Another object was to provide cleaning preparations which, if desired, can be designed as visually appealing, stable gels.
  • Ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters are used for various purposes in aqueous cleaning formulations.
  • Low ethoxylated glycerin fatty acid esters (EO 3-12) usually serve as refatting agents to improve the feeling on the skin after drying
  • glycerol fatty acid esters with a degree of ethoxylation of approx. 30-50 serve as solubilizers for non-polar substances such as perfume oils.
  • washing-active cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising:
  • pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives from aqueous cleansing formulations draw onto the skin and thereby produce a pleasant feeling on the skin after drying. It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives are able to reduce the slippery feeling on the skin when washing that is produced by ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological cleaning preparations in the sense of the present invention are based on simple and inexpensive formulations. They have good foam development and high cleaning power at the same time.
  • the preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.
  • the ethoxylated oils are advantageously selected from the group of ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, particularly preferably: PEG-10 olive oil glycerides, - PEG- 11 avocado oil glycerides, PEG-11 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-13 sunflower oil glycerides, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil-jojoba oil -Fatty acids, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), Glycereth-5 cocoat, PEG-9 coconut fatty acid glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoat, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil-PEG-7 ester, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glyceride 10 olive oil glycerides,
  • Preferred ethoxylated oils are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 coconut glycerides, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmat.
  • pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.5 up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, are contained in the preparations according to the invention.
  • ethoxylated oils in a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, are contained in the preparations according to the invention.
  • hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives.
  • Starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous, and hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate is particularly advantageous.
  • the cleaning preparations advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants according to the invention. It is particularly advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • acylglutamates especially sodium acylglutamate
  • acyl isethionates eg sodium / Ammoniumcocoyl isethionate
  • Sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, and sodium C 12-13,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate
  • carboxylated triglyceride ethoxylates such as
  • Quaternary surfactants are very particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups'. Benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • washing-active amphoteric surfactants in the sense of the present invention are ⁇ acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, for example sodium, Dinatriumacyl- amphodipropionat, disodium, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropyl- sulfonate, and sodium acyl Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat,
  • Alkanolamides such as Cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA
  • Esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ⁇ ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • ⁇ taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • Ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-Oleth-10 phosphate and Dilureth-4 phosphate
  • Alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also B Aeylglutamate such as di-TEA-palmitoyiaspartat and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate, "acylpeptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolysed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolysed collagen and acylated wheat protein Hydrolysates, for example sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, as well as carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations is selected from the range from 5 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics.
  • the complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Complexing agents form complexes with metal atoms which, if one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are metalacycles.
  • Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, These elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors.
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, Nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigkla (HOEDTA) and its anions, Diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and its anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • NTA Nitrilotriacetic acid
  • HOEDTA Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigkladaacetic acid
  • DPTA Diethylenaminopentaacetic acid
  • CDTA trans-1,2-
  • the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • An optionally desired oil component of the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations - for example in the form of cleaning emulsions - for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C Atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyiisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl
  • the oil component can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil component is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2- i 5 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil component can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, pofydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of the phospholipids.
  • the phospholipids are phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols.
  • the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are characterized by the general structure
  • R and R typically represent unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • Cleaning preparations according to the invention are advantageously in the form of gels and contain one or more gel formers or hydrocolloids.
  • Hydrocolloid is the technological short name for the more correct term “hydrophilic colloid”. Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that are largely linear in shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water.
  • Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a have sufficient number of hydrophilic groups and are not too strongly cross-linked.
  • the hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:
  • the group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows: organic, natural compounds, such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth,
  • Starch dextrins, gelatin, casein, organic, modified natural substances such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites,
  • Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups.
  • (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.
  • sodium carboxymethyl cellulose the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 COONa.
  • R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 COONa.
  • Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also known as cellulose gum.
  • xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 ⁇ 10 6 to 24 * 10 6 .
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ⁇ -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysaccharide.
  • Xanthan is formed from a chain with ß-1, 4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains.
  • the structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate.
  • the number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane.
  • Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. In doing so Yields of 25-30 g / l achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z.
  • B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.
  • An advantageous gelling agent in the sense of the present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar from northern Atlantic, belonging to the florida red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).
  • carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it.
  • the carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%.
  • Carrageenan which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan.
  • the gel-forming ⁇ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in 1, 3 and 1, 4 positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -L-galactose).
  • the non-gelling ⁇ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues and the like. Easily soluble in cold water.
  • the i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro- ⁇ -D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming.
  • Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: ⁇ , ß, ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ .
  • the type of cations present (K + , NH 4 + , Na + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.
  • Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention.
  • Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula
  • Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those which are selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company).
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymer which is advantageous according to the invention is distinguished by the following structure:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are available from B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade names Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® 981 and Carbopol® 5984.
  • the total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or more polyacrylates in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning emulsion is in the range from 0.5 to 2% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight. -% is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations
  • Cosmetic preparations which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form.
  • compositions according to the invention optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickeners, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyo
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations de nettoyage cosmétiques et dermatologiques contenant : (a) au moins un dérivé d'amidon prégélatinisé à réticulation transversale ; et (b) au moins une huile éthoxylée.
EP03724946A 2002-04-11 2003-04-02 Preparations de lavage cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant au moins un derive d'amidon pregelatinise a reticulation transversale et au moins une huile ethoxylee Ceased EP1496844A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10216506 2002-04-11
DE2002116506 DE10216506A1 (de) 2002-04-11 2002-04-11 Kosmetische und dermatologische waschaktive Zubereitungen, enthaltend ein oder mehrere vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate und ein oder mehrere ethoxylierte Öle
PCT/EP2003/003444 WO2003084486A1 (fr) 2002-04-11 2003-04-02 Preparations de lavage cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant au moins un derive d'amidon pregelatinise a reticulation transversale et au moins une huile ethoxylee

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EP1496844A1 true EP1496844A1 (fr) 2005-01-19

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Cited By (1)

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WO2010058287A2 (fr) 2008-11-18 2010-05-27 Natura Cosmeticos S.A. Composition cosmétique pour la purification de la peau

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10354115A1 (de) * 2003-11-19 2005-07-21 Beiersdorf Ag Neue Verwendung von Tensidsystemen zur Verringerung der Schädigung hauteigener Enzyme
DE10354116A1 (de) * 2003-11-19 2005-06-23 Beiersdorf Ag Milde Haarreinigungsprodukte mit sehr ausgeprägter Aufschäumbarkeit
US8623341B2 (en) 2004-07-02 2014-01-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing cationically modified starch and an anionic surfactant system
US9427391B2 (en) 2006-01-09 2016-08-30 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing cationic synthetic copolymer and a detersive surfactant
FR2903017B1 (fr) * 2006-06-30 2010-08-13 Oreal Compositions cosmetiques contenant un amidon et un diester gras de peg et leurs utilisations
WO2022010906A1 (fr) * 2020-07-06 2022-01-13 Ecolab Usa Inc. Compositions à base d'huile de ricin modifiée par peg pour la microémulsification et l'élimination de multiples salissures grasses

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NO149199C (no) * 1977-08-26 1984-03-07 Unilever Nv Antitranspirasjonspreparat.
FR2656235B1 (fr) * 1989-12-22 1993-12-24 Rhone Poulenc Chimie Systeme tensio-actif a base d'esters de carbohydrates ou d'esters de polyols et son application a la fabrication d'allaitement pour jeunes animaux.
CA2210160A1 (fr) * 1995-01-18 1996-07-25 Roger Jeffcoat Cosmetiques contenant des amidons inhibes thermiquement
DE19627498A1 (de) * 1996-07-08 1998-01-15 Nat Starch Chem Invest Stärkehaltige Reinigungs- und Pflegemittel
EP1128846A4 (fr) * 1999-09-15 2002-10-25 Avebe America Inc Amidon pregelatinise a epaississement par cisaillement

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010058287A2 (fr) 2008-11-18 2010-05-27 Natura Cosmeticos S.A. Composition cosmétique pour la purification de la peau

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