EP1418884A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of o/w emulsions containing sterols and/or c12-c40 fatty acids - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of an O/W emulsion containing the following: (I) Between 1 and 5 wt %, in relation to the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances, selected from the group of sterols and branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C12-C40 fatty acids. (II) Between 0.1 and 1.5 wt %, in relation to the total weight of the preparations, of one or more monoesters, sesquiesters, diesters or triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids of glycerol and/or propylene glycol and/or glycol, comprising a chain length of C14-C40. (III) Between 0.1 and 1.5 wt. %, in relation to the total weight of the preparation of one or more monoesters, sesquiesters, diesters or triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids of sorbitan, comprising a chain length of C14-C40 and optionally with a polyethoxylation degree of 0-100. (IV) Between 0.1 and 1.5 wt. %, in relation to the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, comprising fatty acids with a chain length of C12-C40 and an ethoxylation degree of up to 100, preferably of between 5 and 100. (V) Between 0.5 and 7 wt. %, in relation to the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols, selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols comprising between 12 and 40 carbon atoms. According to the invention, (VI) the ratio from (II):(III):(IV) is preferably selected as a: b: c, whereby a, b and c independently of one another represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, (VII) the ratio from (II)+(III)+(IV) to (V) lies preferably in the range 5:1 to 1:5, (VIII) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) amounts to a maximum 25 wt. %, (IX) and the preparations preferably lie in a pH range of 3.5-8.0, preferably having pH values of 4.5-6.5.

Description

 description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of O / W emulsions containing sterols and / or C ₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological emulsions, in particular skin-care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions. In an advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to an application which makes it possible to increase the stability of preparations containing fatty acids, in particular emulsions, preferably O / W emulsions.

The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), is the important part for the barrier function. The skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall ( Brick-mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through. In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the stickiness of cosmetic preparations.

In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the homolayer and influence the smoothness of the skin. In contrast to the sebum lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire homolayer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, cosmetics usually contain water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, the physical behavior of these substances is also important. Therefore, the development of very well biocompatible emulsifiers or surfactants is desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the homolayer. It is particularly advantageous if their molecular components consist of substances that occur naturally in the epidermis.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural rain generation capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, particularly sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. This is generally understood to mean a heterogeneous system composed of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. One is in the form of droplets (dispere or inner phase), while the other liquid forms a continuous (coherent or inner phase). More rare forms of administration are multiple emulsions, i.e. those which themselves contain droplets of a further dispersed phase in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase, e.g. W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

Recent findings have led to a better understanding of practical cosmetic emulsions. It is assumed that the emulsifier mixtures used in excess form iamellar liquid-crystalline phases or crystalline gel phases. In gel network theory, the stability and physicochemical properties of such emulsions are attributed to the formation of viscoelastic gel networks.

In order to guarantee the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, i.e. emulsifiers, are generally necessary. In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like any chemical substance, can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions in individual cases. It is known, for example, that in certain particularly sensitive people certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers and simultaneous exposure to sunlight.

It is possible to prepare emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion. Ahead- The reason for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel structure which stabilizes the dispersed phase and other circumstances. Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, depending on which is the disperse phase and which is the continuous phase.

However, it is neither necessary nor possible for cosmetic galenics to completely dispense with emulsifiers, especially since there is a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers. However, there is a lack of the prior art in a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which would then also significantly broaden the range of applications corresponding to mild and skin-compatible cosmetic preparations.

It was an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations with excellent skin-care properties.

A further object of the present invention was to provide preparations which significantly improve the condition of the skin, in particular reduce the roughness of the skin.

It is known to reduce a feeling of stickiness or also a feeling of slowness by adding certain substances, for example some selected powder raw materials, in particular talc. Apart from the fact that this is rarely completely successful, such an addition also changes the viscosity of the product in question and reduces the stability.

The task was therefore to remedy all of these disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, products with reduced stickiness or greasiness should be made available. Products in the fields of care cosmetics, decorative cosmetics and pharmacological galenics should equally be freed from the disadvantages of the prior art described.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic preparations which are notable for good skin tolerance. Known cosmetic preparations are so-called “stearate emulsions”, that is to say those in which stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or alkali metal salts of stearic acid and / or palmitic acid are effective as emulsifiers. These preparations can advantageously be present as O / V emulsions and are notable for good It is disadvantageous, however, that fatty acids tend to crystallize in a pH range from 3.5 to 8.0 (in particular in a pH range below 7.0), so that the pleasant skin feel, the skin care performance and the external appearance of a corresponding preparation can be severely impaired.

Of course, a multitude of possibilities is known to the person skilled in the art to formulate stable O / W preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments which are spreadable in the range from room temperature to skin temperature, or as lotions and milks tend to flow in this temperature range. However, the prior art knows only a few formulations which are so thin that they would be sprayable, for example.

In addition, low-viscosity preparations of the prior art frequently have the disadvantage that they are unstable, are limited to a narrow application range or a limited choice of starting materials. Low-viscosity products, in which, for example, strongly polar oils - such as the vegetable oils commonly used in commercial products - are sufficiently stabilized, are currently not available on the market.

The term "viscosity" means the property of a liquid to oppose the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers with resistance (toughness, internal friction). Today, this so-called dynamic viscosity according to η = t / D is defined as the ratio of the shear stress to the velocity gradient perpendicular to the direction of flow For Newtonian liquids η is a substance constant with the Sl unit Pascal second (Pa s) at a given temperature.

The quotient v = η / p from the dynamic viscosity η and the density p of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v and is given in the SI unit m ² / s.

Fluidity (φ) is the reciprocal of viscosity (φ = 1 / η). In the case of ointments and the like, the use value is determined, among other things, by the so-called ness. The speed of an ointment or ointment base or the like means its property of pulling threads of different lengths when tapping; accordingly, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting fabrics.

While the graphic representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian liquids at a given temperature gives a straight line, so-called non-Newtonian liquids often show considerable deviations depending on the respective speed gradient D (shear rate γ) or the shear stress τ. In these cases the so-called apparent viscosity can be determined, which does not obey Newton's equation, but from which the true viscosity values can be determined by graphic methods.

The falling body viscometry is only suitable for the investigation of Newtonian liquids and gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which the dynamic viscosity η for a ball falling through a liquid flowing around it

2r ² (p _κ - p _R ) -g η 9 v can be determined, where r = radius of the sphere, v = falling speed, p _κ = density of the sphere, p _F , = density of the liquid and g = acceleration of gravity.

O / W emulsions with a low viscosity, which have a storage stability, as is required for marketable products, can only be formulated with great effort using the prior art. Accordingly, the range of such formulations is extremely small. Nevertheless, such formulations could offer the consumer previously unknown cosmetic services.

It was also an object of the present invention to provide products with the widest possible range of applications. For example, the basis for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms. It has been shown to be surprising, and this is the solution to these problems that cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of an OΛΛ / emulsion

(I) 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more substances selected from the group of sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₀ fatty acids,

(II) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, trieste of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of Cι ₄ - C ₄₀ of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or glycol,

(III) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of C ₁₄ - C ₄₀ of sorbitan, optionally with a degree of polyethoxylation of 0-100,

(IV) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation up to 100, preferably from 5 to 100 .

(V) 0.5 - 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols with 12 to 40 carbon atoms

(VI) where the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably chosen as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.

(VII) and the ratio of (II) + (|||) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,

(VIII) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 25% by weight,

(IX) and where the preparations are advantageously present in a pH range from 3.5 to 8.0, preferably at pH values from 4.5 to 6.5, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention act better than moisturizing preparations, better promote smoothing of the skin, are distinguished by better care effects, serve better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients have higher stability towards the crystallization of the fatty acids used and would be characterized by better biocompatibility would be characterized by a better skin feel and by higher cosmetic elegance would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and by a wide range Consistency and viscosity ranges from 400 mPas to> 20,000 mPas would be formulated as the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are both sprayable, flowable and cream-like, can be formulated, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin tolerance and skin care performance.

Sterols are steroids that only have a hydroxyl group in the 3-position, but do not have a functional group otherwise, formally represent alcohols. Therefore, the more logical name sterols is sometimes used. In addition, the sterols containing 27 to 30 carbon atoms generally have a double bond in the 5/6 position, more rarely also / or in 7/8, 8/9 and other positions (for example 22/23).

The sterols are widespread in nature as lipids - mostly in the form of esters (formerly called steroids). The sterols found in the animal kingdom are called zoosterols. The most important representative is cholesterol. Further zoosterols were found in wool fat (lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol), in the silkworm, in sponges (spongosterol), starfish, sea urchins, oysters etc.

Cholesterol is characterized by the following structure:

Lanosterin is characterized by the following structure:

Dihydrolanosterol is characterized by the following structure:

The plant sterols are called phytosterols. Its main representatives are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. You can find some in cosmetics. Products use. Occasionally, the sterols from fungi and yeast are separated from the group of phytosterols as mycosterols (e.g. ergosterol, fungister, stellasterin and zymosterol).

Examples of phytosterols are:

(Ergosterol),

(Stigmasterol),

(Sitosterol),

(Fucosterol)

(Brassicasterol),

(Fungisterol)

(Campesterol).

All phytosterols to be used according to the invention have a more or less large number of optical isomers, which are not to be listed in detail here, but which have proven to be advantageous insofar as their cosmetic safety is beyond question.

Preferred sterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.

Preferred fatty acids are stearic acid and / or palmitic acid (stearin) and lignoceric acid.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

(II) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more glycol or glyceryl esters selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-di- and triesters of the glycols (= vic Diols or 1,2-diols) or of glycerol (1,2,3-trihydroxypropane) with fatty acids of chain length C ₂ - C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) Examples: glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol monostearate , Glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

(III) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more sorbitan esters, selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-, di and triesters of the sorbitan (= monoanhydrosorbites or 1.5- Anhydro-D-sorbitol) with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ - C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) and optionally a degree of ethoxylation of 10 - 100). Examples: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

(III) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₂ -C o and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, in particular selected from Group PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

(V) 0.5-7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight , based on the total weight of the preparations.

Wool wax alcohols (CAS No. 8027-33-6) represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax that is obtained after the saponification of the wool wax. They consist of approximately 25.2% cholesterol, 2.7% lanosterol, 2.2% dihydrolanosterol and approximately 29.5% aliphatic monohydric C ₆ -C ₃₂ alcohols. Wool wax alcohols are therefore used for the production of ointment bases, from which mostly W / O emulsions are made. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention therefore relate to preparations according to

(V) where those from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms are selected from the group of wool wax alcohols,

(I) these wool wax alcohols contain, in addition to the aliphatic alcohols, also one or more sterols, for example cholesterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate, for example, to cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of O / W emulsions, containing 3% liquid lipids (preferably selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides and (c) ethers of medium-chain fatty alcohols, (d) non-polar lipids, (e) silicone oils, (f) dialkyl carbonates or mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present disclosure, the term “lipids” is sometimes used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, as is well known to the person skilled in the art. The terms “oil phase” and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to take the interfacial tension against water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. The polarity of the oil phase in question is greater, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the invention, the interfacial tension is viewed as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force that acts on an imaginary line of one meter in length that lies in the interface between two phases. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the force / length relationship and is usually given in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. As polar in the sense of the present invention Lipids whose interfacial tension against water is less than 30 mN / m are considered.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Further polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 up to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl urethane Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a C _2-15 alkyl benzoate content or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise according to the reaction equation R

R— CH2-CH2— OH ► _R _ _CH _CH2— OH

catalyst

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically do not cause skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure

H

R ₁ - C - CH ₂ - OH

R ₂ off. R ₁ and R ₂ generally mean unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which

Ri = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and

R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyl octanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 12 from Conde Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure H

H'oC _ß - C CH ₂ OH

C10H21 and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condeda Chemie GmbH.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyl octanol and 2-hexyl decanol are available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or as a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like.

The following can be used as basic components of the preparations according to the invention: water or aqueous solutions, aqueous ethanolic solutions, natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular.

According to the invention, the oil phase of the emulsions preferably consists predominantly of components of the type listed under point (4), although it is possible to accept up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 40, without major disadvantages % By weight of the total weight of the oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then advantageously be selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 up to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palatate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the Group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like, provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin Ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes such as those sold under the tradenames Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-3 6-fatty acid triglyceride) (. CI8 ₃₆ fatty acid) and Syncrowax AW 1C available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C ₃₀ -so-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats such as B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C ₂₀ . o-alkyl stearate, C ₂ o _^ to-alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also particularly advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Cι _2- i ₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether as long as the conditions are met.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether or mixtures of d ₂ are particularly advantageous. ₁₅ -Alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of Cι _2- i5-alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Cι _2- ιs alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

O / W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of the usual O / V emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of W / O emulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers.

If desired, O / W emulsions according to the present invention further contain one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:

Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dibaostearate (c ) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated polyglycerol, glycine oleate and glyceryl glyceryl pearlyl, and glyceryl oleate, and hydrogenated ricinostearate -7-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyol and hexyllaurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone copolyol, acrylate / Cιo-3o-alkylacrylcrylglyceryl, 101-polyacrylate, dipolyhydroxyst ea- rat, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy-stearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl 3 dioleate.

If desired, O / W emulsions according to the present invention contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:

Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearylsulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetylstearylsulfate, 4-phosphate, lecithin, lecithin Phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, with a mixture of glyceryl stearate -100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 -Dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methylglucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, Isosteareth-2 0, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglyceryl stearate , Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiiso stearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetyl stearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG Stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for example in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sun protection cream or a sun protection milk, are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or several emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation. Just as emulsions of liquid and solid consistency are used as cosmetic cleansing lotions or cleansing creams, the preparations according to the invention can also be sprayable cleansing preparations (“cleaning sprays”) which, for example, for removing make-up and / or make-up or as a mild washing lotion - if appropriate also for impure skin. Such cleaning preparations can also advantageously be used as so-called "rinse-off preparations" which are rinsed off the skin after use

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.

It is also advantageous to make use of the properties according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations). Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active ingredient used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl-hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 ^, -hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances: 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their

Salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to add further anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory active ingredients, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesterol and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (for example buthioninsulfoximines, homocystinsulfoximine, buthioninsulfones), pentathione sulfoximine, penta-, hexa-, hexa-, hexa- very low vert conventional dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliquin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitolol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanidic acid, northern dihydrogenated acid, nordihyduated hydroxy acid, nordihyduated hydroxy acid, nordihyduated hydroxychloride, Uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and their derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and their derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides) , Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All active ingredients common to deodorants or antiperspirants can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, Sa. - ponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Examples of advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-tri- chlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those described in the patent documents DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE- 195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE- 42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients. Sodium hydrogen carbonate can also be used advantageously. The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character which, in addition to an effective content of the substances used according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, also further organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as organically modified or unmodified hectorites, bentonites, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

It may also be advantageous to add surface-active or surface-active agents to preparations according to the invention, for example cationic emulsifiers such as, in particular, quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom, which is linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of the quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, or alkyldimbromide, alkylammonium bromide or dimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamineoxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use. It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (for example Jaguar® C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example Quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, from Rheox under the trade name Bentone® 38) or stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG).

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, such as, for. B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil®, which are available from Degussa AG. Examples of advantageous Aerosil® grades are Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202 , Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.

Furthermore, so-called metal soaps (i.e. the salts of higher fatty acids with the exception of the alkali salts) are also advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as, for example, aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

It is also advantageous to add amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (e.g. cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizers (e.g. betaine) to preparations according to the invention. Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium triumacylamphopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropyl aminopropylate aminopropyl aminopropylate aminopropyl aminopropylate, for example

The amount of surface-active or surface-active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation. An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being the aforementioned antioxidants, which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin Bι _2, the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) ), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and cera-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances

Choose ® ®, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit and Neocerit.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin ,

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their are particularly advantageous typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- Dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) Epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. .assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - GaΙlocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in Table 2 below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ^ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues. According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z _\ to Z ₆ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and where Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl residues, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues. Z ^ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

wherein Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl residues, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, can also be used advantageously if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues. For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to select the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myrcetin, α-glucosyl isoquercitrin, α-glucosyl iso quercetin and α-glucosyl quercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-o-rutinoside) are also advantageous according to the invention. Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, quercetin-3-rutinosid, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxurutin (3,3', 4 ', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyrano-syl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin (3, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3', 4 ', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7 - Glucoside), Flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanon-7-glucoside) and Isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanon-3- (ß-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans. Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-camitin [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butter-acid-betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula %

+ I

(H ₃ C) ₃ N - CH ₂ - C - CH ₂ - COO-

H where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcamitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

Preparations according to the invention are produced under the conditions familiar to the person skilled in the art. As a rule, the components of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then with stirring and, particularly advantageously, with homogenization, very particularly advantageously with stirring with medium to high energy input, advantageously with the aid of a gear rim dispersion machine with a speed of up to a maximum of 10,000 rpm, preferably from 2500 to 7700 rpm, combined with one another.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Example 1 (O / W cream):

Wt .-%

Stearic acid 2.00

Lignoceric acid 1.00

Cetyl alcohol 5.00

PEG-20 stearate 1, 00

Sorbitan stearate 1.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Glyceryl stearate 1.00

Octyldodecanol 6.00

Isopropyl palmitate 1, 00

Octyl stearate 1.00

Cyclomethicone 3.00

Myristyl myristate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00

Carbomer 0.10

Ceramide III 0.50

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization, with the aid of a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 5000 rpm.

Example 2 (O / W lotion):

Wt .-%

Cholesterol 2.50

Lanosterol 0.50

Lanolin 0.50

Myristyl alcohol 1, 00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG-100 stearate 1.00

Sorbitan stearate 1.00

Glyceryl stearate 1, 00

Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 3.00

Octyl palmitate 5.00

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 2.00

Glycerin 3.00

Carbomer 0.15

Alpha-glucosylrutin 0.50

Retinol 0.20

Potassium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 7000 rpm.

Example 3 (O / W lotion):

Wt .-%

Stearic acid 3.00

Myristyl alcohol 1, 00

Cetylstearylalcohol 1.00

PEG-100 stearate 1.00

Sorbitan stearate 1.00

Glyceryl stearate 1.00

Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 3.00

Paraffin oil 5.00

Glycerin 3.00

Carbomer 0.15

Alpha-glucosylrutin 0.50

Retinol 0.20

Potassium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 3200 rpm.

Example 4 (O / W cream):

Wt .-%

PEG-40 stearate 0.50

Stearic acid 3.00

Cholesterol 1.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 4.00

Glyceryl stearate 1, 00

Sorbitan stearate 0.50

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Dimethicone 4.00

Dicaprylyl ether 2.00

Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 5.00

Ceramide II 0.07

Xanthan gum 0.10

Citric acid 0.10

Glycerin 3.00 perfume, preservative,

Dyes etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH set to 5.0-7.0

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 5000 rpm.

Example 5 (O / W emulsion make-up):

Wt .-%

PEG-40 stearate 1, 00

Stearic acid 3.00

Lanolin 0.50

Cholesterol 0.25

Lignoceric acid 0.25

Cetyl alcohol 2.00

Glyceryl stearate 1, 00

Sorbitan stearate 1, 00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Cetylstearylisononanoate 2.00

Hexyl decanol 5.00

Glycerin 3.00

Carbomer 0.15

Mica 1, 00

Magnesium silicate 1.00

Iron oxides 1, 00

Titanium dioxide 2.50

Talc 5.00

Retinol 0.20

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water, demineralized to 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

The constituents of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 6000 rpm. Example 6 (O / W cream):

Wt .-%

PEG-100 stearate 1.00

Lignoceric acid 1.00

Cholesterol 1.00

Lanolin 1.00

Cetyl alcohol 4.00

Sorbitan stearate 1.00

Glyceryl distearate 1.00

Octyldodecyl myristate 3.00

Octyldodecanol 3.00

Paraffin oil 2.00

Butylene glycol caprylate / caprate 2.00

Dimethicone 2.00

Cyclomethicone 1.00

Ceramides 0.50

Vitamin E Acetate 1.00

Xanthan gum 0.10

Glycerin 3.00

BHT 0.02

Disodium EDTA 0.10

Perfume, preservative,

Dyes q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 2800 rpm. Example 7 (O / W lotion):

Wt .-%

PEG-100 stearate 0.50

Stearic acid 2.00

Cetyl alcohol 2.00

Sorbitan stearate 0.50

Glyceryl stearate 0.50

Cι _2- ι ₅ alkyl benzoates 4.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 3.00

Paraffin oil 2.00

Tocopheryl acetate 2.00

Sodium carbomer 0.10

Ceramide III 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume, preservative,

Dyes etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 3000 rpm.

Example 8 (O / W cream)

Wt .-%

PEG-100 stearate 0.50

Stearic acid 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 5.00

Sorbitan stearate 0.50

Glyceryl stearate 0.50

Dimethicone 1, 00

Paraffin oil 3.00

Myristyl myristate 2.00

Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 4.00

Tocopheryl acetate 2.00

Sodium carbomer 0.10

Ceramide III 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

Perfume, preservative,

Dyes etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 5,200 rpm.

Example 9 (sun protection cream):

Wt .-%

PEG-100 stearate 1, 00

Stearic acid 2.00

Cholesterol 1.00

Lignoceric acid 1.00

Cetyl alcohol 4.00

Sorbitan stearate 1, 00

Glyceryl stearate 1, 50

Octyldodecanol 2.00

Paraffin oil 6.00

Butyl octanol 1.00

Xanthan gum 0.10

Sodium carbomer 0.10

Glycerin 3.00

Ceramide III 0.20

BHT 0.02

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10

Perfume, preservative,

Dyes, etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-5.5

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 3500 rpm.

Claims

claims:

1. Containing cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of an O / W emulsion

(I) 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from the group of sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids,

(II) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, trieste of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of Cι ₄ - C _{0 of} the glycerol and / or the propylene glycol and / or the glycol.

(III) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of Cι ₄ - C ₀ of sorbitan and optionally with a degree of polyethoxylation of 0-100.

(IV) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₂ -C ₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of up to 100, preferably from 5 to 100 .

(V) 0.5 - 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms

(VI) where the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably chosen as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.

(VII) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,

(VIII) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 25% by weight,

(IX) and wherein the preparations are advantageously present in a pH range from 3.5 to 8.0, preferably at pH values from 4.5 to 6.5.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

(II) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more glycol or glyceryl esters selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-di- and triesters of the glycols (= vic -Diols or 1,2-diols) or glycerol (1,2,3- Trihydroxypropane) with fatty acids of chain length Cι ₂ - C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched).

3. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

(IV) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more sorbitan esters, selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-, di and triesters of sorbitans (= monoanhydrosorbites or 1,5-anhydro-D-sorbitol ) with fatty acids of chain length Cι ₂ - C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) and optionally a degree of ethoxylation of 10 - 100).

4. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

(V) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, selected from the group PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

5. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

(V) 0.5 - 7 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and Mixtures of these.

6. Preparations according to claim 1,

(VI) where those from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms are selected from the group of wool wax alcohols,

(II) which can also contain one or more sterols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols.

7. Preparations according to claim 1, containing at least 2% liquid lipids, preferably selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides, (c) ethers of medium-chain fatty alcohols, (d) non-polar lipids, (e) silicone oils, (f) dialkyl carbonates or Mixtures from it.