DE10063659A1 - Production of a sprayable emulsion, useful as a base for skin care, cleansing and dermatological products, comprises homogenizing the ingredients in a rotor-stator mixer - Google Patents

Abstract

Production of a sprayable emulsion comprises: (I) 2-35 wt.% oil phase; (II) 50-95 wt.% aqueous phase; (III) up to 10 wt.% emulsifiers (including oil-in-water emulsifiers and optionally water-in-oil emulsifiers); and (IV) homogenizing the ingredients in a rotor-stator mixer at \-2500 rpm for at least 4 minutes.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for the production of sprayable O / W Emulsions, in particular of cosmetic and dermatological emulsions.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (ex wise for heat regulation and as sensory organ) is the barrier function, the off drying the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevents the well important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against penetration and the intake of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, is the actual protective covering opposite the Environment forms. At about one tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest Layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which represents the barrier function important part. Today in Elijah Skin Model Recognized by the Professional World (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the Horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricks wall) Mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the brick Stones, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces ent speaks the mortar. This system essentially provides a physical barrier However, because of its narrow and multi-layered Structure are equally difficult to pass by lipophilic substances.

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment cosmetic o the pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness, method to  their preparation and the use of active ingredients to reduce the adhesion sensitivity of cosmetic preparations.

Besides their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences wear The epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous lipids, which are not closed Forming film on the skin are the epidermal lipids over the entire horny layer distributed.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the Lipids of the upper layers of the skin are very important for the regulation of skin moisture. because Cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid blends and Water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, however, is also the physical behavior of these substances of importance. Therefore, the development of very well bioverträgli emulsifiers or surfactants desirable. To support formulated products the liquid crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their molecular components are naturally occurring in the epidermis Substances exist.

Cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural Funkti on the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorga and the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic Substances or infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergi skin reactions.

It is also the goal of skin care to reduce the fat and thinning caused by daily washing To compensate for water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products should be protected from environmental influences,  especially against sun and wind, protect and retard skin aging gladly.

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Me medicines in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean sub divorce between cosmetic and medical use and Products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Drug Act).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. By this one understands in the all common a heterogeneous system of two not mixed with each other or only limited Baren liquids, which are commonly referred to as phases. One lies there in the form of droplets before (disperse or inner phase), while the other Flüs form a continuous (coherent or internal phase). Rarer dosage Forms are multiple emulsions, ie those which are dispersed in the droplets (or discontinuous) phase in turn droplets of another dispersed phase included, for. As W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

Recent findings have lately led to a better understanding of practice vanter cosmetic emulsions. It is assumed that the in excess used emulsifier mixtures lamellar liquid crystalline phases or crystalline Form gel phases. In the gel network theory stability and physikochemi properties of such emulsions on the formation of viscoelastic gel returned to networks.

In order to ensure the metastability of emulsions are usually border surface-active substances, ie emulsifiers, necessary. In itself, the use of übli cosmetic emulsifiers completely harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, such as Ultimately any chemical substance, allergic in one case or hypersensitivity cause user-based reactions. So it is known that in some particularly sensitive persons certain Lichtdermatosen by certain Emulga and simultaneous exposure to sunlight.

It is possible to produce emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, in one aqueous phase dispersed oil droplets, similar to an O / W emulsion having. requirement  it may be that the continuous aqueous phase dispersed one Phase stabilizing gel skeleton and other circumstances more. Such systems are sometimes called hydrodispersions or oleodispersions, depending on which represents the disperse and which is the continuous phase.

It is neither necessary nor possible for cosmetic galenics, on emulsifiers to give up, especially since a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers exists. However, a shortcoming of the prior art is a satisfactorily large one Diversity of such emulsifiers, which then also the application spectrum accordingly mild and skin-friendly cosmetic preparations would widen significantly.

Thus, an object of the present invention, cosmetic or dermatological Zu preparations with excellent skin-care properties.

Known cosmetic preparations are so-called "stearate emulsions", so sol in which stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or alkali metal salts of stearic acid and / or the palmitic acid is effective as an emulsifier. These preparations can are advantageous as O / W emulsions and are characterized by good skin feel and very good skin care performance. The disadvantage, however, is that fatty acids in a pH Range of 3.5-8.0 tend to crystallize (especially in a pH range below half 7.0), whereby the pleasant skin feeling, the skin care performance and the äuße re appearance of a corresponding preparation are severely impaired.

Of course, a variety of ways known to the skilled person, stable O / W Zube formulations for cosmetic or dermatological use For example, in the form of creams and ointments that range from room to skin tonic are brushable, or as lotions and milk, in this temperature range rather thick or flowable. However, the state of the art knows only a few Formulations that are so thin that they could be sprayed, for example.

In addition, low-viscosity preparations of the prior art often have the disadvantage of that they are unstable, to a narrow scope or a limited feedstock selection are limited. Low-viscosity products in which, for example, highly polar Oils - like the vegetable oils otherwise commonly used in vegetable oils - from Therefore, there is currently no such thing on the market as stabilizing.  

The term "viscosity" is understood to mean the property of a liquid that is resistant to side laminar displacement of two adjacent layers a resistor (Zä ability to oppose internal friction). Today one defines this so-called dyna mixing viscosity according to η = t / D as the ratio of shear stress to Ge Speed gradients perpendicular to the flow direction. For Newtonian liquid η at given temperature is a material constant with the SI unit pascal second (Pa.s).

The quotient ν = η / ρ from the dynamic viscosity η and the density ρ of the liquid is called the kinematic viscosity ν and is given in the SI unit m ² / s.

The fluidity (φ) is the reciprocal of the viscosity (φ = 1 / η). For ointments and the the use value is among other things determined by the so-called Zü dependence. Under the tack of an ointment or ointment base or the like understands its characteristic of drawing threads of different lengths when parting; accordingly speaking, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting substances.

While the graphic representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian liquids at Given a given temperature a straight line, do not show up in the so-called Newtonian fluids depending on the respective velocity gradient D (Shear rate) or the shear stress τ often significant deviations. In In these cases, the so-called apparent viscosity can be determined, although not Obey the Newtonian equation, from which, however, by graphic methods determine the true viscosity values.

Falling body viscometry is only suitable for studying Newtonian fluids as well as gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which for the falling of a ball by a liquid flowing around it, the dynamic viscosity η from

is determinable, where
r = radius of the sphere, v = fall velocity, ρ _K = density of the sphere, ρ _Fl = density of the liquid and g = acceleration of gravity.

O / W emulsions with a low viscosity, which have a storage stability, as they is required for marketable products, are very much in the state of the art elaborate to formulate. Accordingly, the offer of such formulations is conditions extremely low. Nevertheless, such formulations could be up to the consumer offer her undisclosed cosmetic services.

Furthermore, an object of the present invention, products with a pulp as possible variety of applications. For example, basics for Formulations such as cleansing emulsions, face and body care preparation gene, but also pronounced medical-pharmaceutical dosage forms ge create, for example, preparations for acne and other skin damage calculations.

It has surprisingly been found, and therein lies the solution of these objects, that a process for the preparation of sprayable O / W emulsions, characterized in that

• a) 3-25 wt .-% of components of an oil phase
• b) 2-10 wt .-% of components of a water phase

with one or more O / W emulsifiers and if desired one or more W / O emulsifiers combined, stirred and over a period of at least 4 minutes homogenized at least 2500 rpm to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

Particularly advantageous sprayable emulsions are obtained when the constituents of the emulsions meet the following conditions: they contain

• A) 1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more substances selected from the group of sterols, the C ₁₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acids, and the C ₁₄ -C ₃₂ alcohols,
• B) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and / or of propylene glycol and / or of glycol,
• C) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation of a or more monoesters of sorbitol,  
• D) from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of the chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of up to 100, preferably of 5-100,
• E) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or several fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched th, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms
• F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably selected as a: b: c, where a, b and c are independently rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.
• G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5 lies,
• H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 10% by weight,
• I) and wherein the preparations advantageously in a pH range of 3.5-8.0 (esp especially at pH values of 4.5-6.5).

It was therefore not foreseeable for the expert that the erfindungsge MAESSEN preparations

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - are characterized by a better care effect,
• - Better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological agents serve
• - higher stability against the crystallization of the fatty acids used aufwei sen and
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility
• - characterized by a better skin feeling and higher cosmetic elegance would draw
• - would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and in low-viscosity ranges from 300 mPas to 1500 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02) formulated

as the preparations of the prior art.  

The preparations according to the invention have very good cosmetic properties, especially as regards the stickiness, and have a very good skin compatibility as well as skin care performance.

Sterols are steroids that only in the 3-position a hydroxy group, but otherwise no functional group, thus formally represent alcohols more logical Bez. Sterols used. In addition, the 27 to 30 have C atoms Sterols generally have a double bond in the 5/6 position, more rarely also / or in 7/8, 8/9 and other positions (eg 22/23).

The sterols are lipids - mostly in the form of esters (formerly called sterols) - in the Nature widely used. The sterols found in the animal kingdom are called zoosterols. The most important representative is cholesterol. Other zoosterols were found in wool fat (Lano in the silkworm, in sponges (Spongosterin), starfish, sea urchins, Aus tern etc.

Cholesterol is characterized by the following structure:

Lanosterol is characterized by the following structure:

The plant sterols are called phytosterols. Your main representatives are Ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. You will find partially in cosmetics. Products Ver turn. Occasionally the sterols from Pil are separated from the group of phytosterols and yeasts as mycosterols (eg ergosterol, fungisterine, stellasterin and zymoste from).

Examples of phytosterols are:

All phytosterols to be used according to the invention have one more or less large number of optical isomers, which are not listed here in detail which have proved to be advantageous if their cosmetic Unbe Possibility is beyond question.

Preferred sterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.

Preferred fatty acids are stearic acid and / or palmitic acid (stearin).

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, ge selects from the group glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol mo nostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate,

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more monoesters of sorbitol, in particular advantageous: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate,

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention further relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, in particular selected from the group PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention further relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or several fatty alcohols selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, iso cetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 Koh lenstoffatomen in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously selected from the range of 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Wool wax alcohols (CAS No. 8027-33-6) represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after the saponification of the wool wax. They consist of about 25.2% of cholesterol, 2.7% of lanosterol, 2.2% of dihydrolanosterol and about 29.5% of aliphatic monovalent C ₁₆ -C ₃₂ alcohols. Wool wax alcohols are therefore used for the preparation of ointment bases, from which most W / O emulsions are made.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention therefore relate to preparations according to

• A) where from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms from the group of Wool wax alcohols are chosen
• B) wherein these wool wax alcohols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols and a or several sterols, for example cholesterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol, ent hold.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate, for example, kos metic and dermatological preparations in the form of O / W emulsions containing 3% liquid lipids (preferably selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated Triglycerides and (c) ethers of medium chain fatty alcohols, (d) nonpolar lipids, (e) silicone oil, (f) dialkyl carbonates or mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, the term "lipids" is sometimes used, as the person skilled in the art is quite common. Also, the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" become synonymous looking.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to achieve is defined. It has already been proposed to oppose the interfacial tension To assume water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. because in that the polarity of the relevant oil phase is greater, the lower the Interfacial tension between this oil phase and water is. According to the invention the interfacial tension as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force at an imaginary one in the interface acting between two phases line of length of one meter acts. The physi The classical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship hung force / length and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters).  It has a positive connotation when it tries to reach the interface out. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. As polar in the sense of The present invention contemplates lipids whose interfacial tension is against Water is less than 30 mN / m.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of the lecithins and the fatty acid tri glycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageous ge are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and more.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarbon acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n- Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semysin thetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase may advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbetalko hole. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first described their production. They arise according to the reaction equation

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde Hyds, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of allyl aldehyde. Guer Betalkohole are liquid even at low temperatures and cause virtually none Skin irritation. Advantageously, they can be used as greasy, superfatting and also moisturizing acting ingredients in skin and hair care products are used.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such spe cies are usually characterized by the structure

out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

Advantageously according to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are the 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure

and is, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from the Company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also in accordance with the invention advantageous to use. Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are included For example, under the trade name Isofol® 14 of the company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatologi preparations is advantageously from the range to 25.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5- 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if necessary waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Non-polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (Petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobu tene. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. The following Table 1 below lists lipids which are present as individual substances or else in a mixture According to the invention are advantageous. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to Ge mix of higher and lower polar and the like to use.

Table 1

As basic constituents of the preparations according to the invention can be used who:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• - Natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetics rare oils;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably Esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propy glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids. Number or with fatty acids;  
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono ethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or mono butyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous Pro -products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is erfindungsge preferably preferably composed of components of the type listed in item (4), although it is possible to accept without major disadvantages, up to 50 wt .-%, preferably up to 40% by weight of the total weight of the oil components the group of other oil components. These can then be chosen advantageously are selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unver branched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, iso propyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. Eg Jo jobaöl.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of sown saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid retriglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated ver branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, ins special 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural Oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil,  Palmkernel and the like more, provided the required in the main claim Bedin be complied with.

According to the invention can be used advantageously fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petro chemical waxes are chosen. According to the invention, for example, are favorable Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, gua rumawachs, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, Mon tan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (Wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes, if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _18-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid ) and Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modifi ed beeswaxes (eg Dimethicon Copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50- Alkyl Bie nenwachs), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modifi ed fats , such as Hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxy stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties as the said fat and / or wax components, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be used both individually also present in a mixture.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15- alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ethers or mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2 -Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat if the required in the main claim conditions are met.

Of the hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated Tes polyisobutene or polydecene advantageous in the context of the present invention ver turn. if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

O / W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be produced with the aid of the customary O / W emulsifier if desired with the aid of W / O emulsifiers or other Co emulsifiers are produced.

If desired, O / W emulsions according to the present invention further comprise one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrityl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, beeswax (Cera alba) and Stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with Isopropylhydroxycetylether, Methylglucose dioleate, Methylglucose dioleate in admixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in admixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in admixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in admixture with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2 -dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate ,

If desired, O / W emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers, in particular advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate , Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glyceryl, glyceryl oleate mixed with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG -100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol di stearate, PEG -22-dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in admixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth- 20, isosteareth-2 0, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropyl PG -dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20-methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethylglucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl 2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate admixed with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-20 steate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG -40-stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in the form of a Skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form sunscreen cream or sunscreen milk are beneficial and included z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and water and one or more Other emulsifiers, as they usually use for such a type of formulation be.  

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. among them include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insects alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation medical shear preparations.

Medical topical compositions according to the present invention ent usually keep one or more drugs in effective concentration. The one For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the statutory provisions the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Foodstuffs and Foodstuffs) Drugs Act).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions used in the context of the present invention, depending on their structure, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritive cream, or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the invention to compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

It is also advantageous from the properties of the invention in the form of de make use of cosmetic cosmetics (make-up formulations).

As well as emulsions of liquid and solid consistency as a cosmetic cleaning Lotions or cleaning creams find use, can also the invention cleaning preparations which can be sprayed according to suitable preparations ("cleaning sprays") represent, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild washing lotion - possibly also for impure skin - be used. Such Reini Advantageous preparations can also be used as so-called "rinse-off preparations" which are rinsed off the skin after use  Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are used in the Form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain besides the In addition, the active ingredient used according to the invention additionally contains at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, such cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not the Protection against sunlight is, but the content of UV-protective substances ent hold. For example, day creams are usually UV-A or UV-B filters incorporated substances.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which Absorb radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, especially 1 to 6% by weight. is based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-meth oxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe non;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethyl hexyl ester);
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. As sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, Of course, this should not be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to include UVA filters in preparations according to the invention commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are included. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also, Zuberei tions containing these combinations are the subject of the invention. It can the same quantities of UVA filter substances are used, which for UVB filters substances were mentioned.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments, usually in the Kos to protect the skin from UV rays. It is about oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents are. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. The quantities mentioned for the above combinations can be used the.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can kos containing metic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as they are usually in such Preparations are used, for. As antioxidants, preservatives, Bakte scents, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments have coloring effect, thickener, surface-active substances, emulsifier ren, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils,  Waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological Formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organi solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is advantageous, the preparations according to the present invention further antiirri to add active or anti-inflammatory agents, especially batyl alcohol (α-Octa decylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α- Hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous to the preparations according to the present invention over to add anti-oxidants. According to the invention as cheap antioxidants all suitable for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications or gebräuchli These antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg uracanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-Lyco pin) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, Propyl thiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg Bu thioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathio ninsulfoximin) in s rather low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and de ren Derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), and benzoic resin coniferyl benzoate, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole , Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybuty rophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine) , Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the present invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, ins particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

Preparations according to the present invention may also be used as a reason situation for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All common for deodorants or antiperspirants agents can ge advantageous be used, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, Odor absorber, for example, in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 phyllosilicates described, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, Bei dellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and also, for example, zinc salts of Ricinoleic acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable in the preparations according to the invention to be incorporated. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hy droxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thymi anole, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the Patent Publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or Drug combinations. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.  

The amount of such agents (one or more compounds) in the preparations According to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zu preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention may also have gel character, in addition to an effective content of the invention according to the substances used and the solvents usually used for this, preferably water, other organic thickeners, for. Gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (eg, distarch phosphate), Cel cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, Hy hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or anorga niche thickeners, for. As aluminum silicates such as organic modifi ornamented or unmodified hectorites, bentonites, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The Ver thickener is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, before At between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, contained.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to use preparations according to the invention border or upper add surface-active agents, such as cationic emulsifiers such as espe especially quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention may furthermore preferably be ge are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea rylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylam ammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride or bromide mide, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammoni umethersulfate, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Cetylpyrimidiniumchlo chloride, imidazoline derivatives and cationic compounds such as amine oxides, for example  Alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Advantageous In particular, cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be used.

It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (for example Jaguar® C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar Hy droxypropyltrimonium chlorides] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (eg. Quaternium-18 hectorite, which z. B. under the trade name Bentone® 38 at the company Rheox is available, or stearalkonium hectorite, which z. B. under the Han product name Softisan® gel available from Hüls AG).

Preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain oil thickeners, to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the pen consistency. before Partial oil thickeners in the context of the present invention are, for example other solids, such. B. hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil®, which from the Degussa AG are available. Advantageous Aerosil® types are, for example, Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.

Furthermore, so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher fatty acids with Aus alkali metal salts) advantageous oil thickening agents in the sense of the present invention such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Also advantageous is preparations according to the invention amphoteric or zwitterio niche surfactants (eg cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizers (eg betaine). Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylene diamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, di sodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example Aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and Lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The amount of surface or surface-active substances (one or more verbin in the preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.  

An amazing feature of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents are in the skin, wherein preferred active ingredients are the aforementioned antioxidants which protect the skin from oxi protect the data from stress.

According to the invention, the active compounds (one or more compounds) can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocor tison-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin B ₁ , the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often vitamin F), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of vegetable origin and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances select, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The active substance or agents are furthermore advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the preparations according to the invention for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic Skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects ultra to serve violet radiation to the skin.

Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

Further advantageously, the active ingredient (s) are selected from the group which cate chine and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts Plants or parts of plants containing catechins or bile acids esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family  Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). In particular, before Partly their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, Vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or An Thocyanidins are to be construed and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-Fla vanpentaene, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the sense of the present the invention.

Also advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., Especially Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japo nica.

Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - Cate chin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicate chin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also, flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are beneficial agents within the meaning of the present invention. They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also be used preferably in formulations according to the invention, are listed in Table 2 below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of sub stances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and un branched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

According to the invention, however, the flavonoids can also be chosen advantageously from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and un branched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used to advantage. It may also be advantageous erfindungsge according to use Pentosylreste.

Advantageously, Z ₁ to Z _{5 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageous from the group which are represented by the following structure:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used to advantage. It may also be advantageous erfindungsge according to use Pentosylreste.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the or the Flavongly coside to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-Glucosylmyricetin, α-Glucosyliso quercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.  

Particularly preferred according to the invention is α-glucosylrutin.

Also advantageous according to the invention are naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnogluco sid), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, Hespe retin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutino sid, sophorin, birutane, rutablon, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy- 3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopy ranoside), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-de oxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-penta hydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflava non-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyrano sid).

It is also advantageous, the one or more agents from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widely used and thus the best studied biochi none. Ubiquinones are prepared according to the number of isoprene linked in the side chain. Units as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc., or by number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15 etc. referred to. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In some Microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals including the Humans outweighs Q10.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). Furthermore, there are other Plastochinone with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols ver esterified derivatives.

Another beneficial agent is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butyrate-acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitines, which are selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention dung. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl carnitine. Both entantio mers (D and L form) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention the. It may also be advantageous, any enantiomeric mixtures, for example a Racemat of D and L form to use.

Other beneficial agents are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavor substances.

The list of active ingredients or active substance combinations mentioned in the erfindungsge mäß preparations can be used, of course, not limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

The amount of such agents (one or more compounds) in the preparations According to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zu preparation.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.  

Example 1 (O / W spray)

Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 PEG-20 stearate 1.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 glyceryl stearate 0.50 Saorbitanstearat 0.50 octyldodecanol 6.00 myristate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.10 Ceramides III 0.05 sodium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 5.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are zusge together and heated, and then homogenizing with a Zahnkranzdispergier Machine with a number of revolutions of 3600 U / min over 8 min combined.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 1100 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02).

Example 2 (O / W spray)

Wt .-% stearic acid 2.50 lignoceric 0.50 Myristylalcohol 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 0.50 sorbitan 0.50 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Propylene / dicaprate 3.00 octyl palmitate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 retinol 0.20 potassium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 5.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper Giermaschine with a number of revolutions of 5200 U / min over 5 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 8000 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02).

Example 3 (sprayable O / W lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 0.25 stearic acid 2.00 cholesterol 1.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 1.00 lanolin 0.50 glyceryl stearate 0.25 sorbitan 0.25 Caprylic / capric 3.00 paraffin oil 1.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 1.00 xanthan gum 0.10 citric acid 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper yawing machine with a speed of 6100 U / min over 4 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 750 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02)

Example 4 (sprayable O / W emulsion)

Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 1.00 cholesterol 1.00 lignoceric 1.00 cetyl alcohol 1.00 glyceryl stearate 0.50 sorbitan 0.50 Caprylic / capric 3.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 retinol 0.20 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 mica 1.00 magnesium silicate 1.00 iron oxides 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 sodium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 6.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper Giermaschine with a number of revolutions of 3500 U / min over 8 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 900 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02).

Example 5 (sprayable O / W lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 3.00 cetyl alcohol 1.00 sorbitan 0.50 glyceryl 0.50 octyldodecyl 3.00 octyldodecanol 3.00 tricaprylin 2.00 Butyleneglycolcaprylat / caprate 2.00 Cyclomethicone 1.00 Vitamin E Acetates 1.00 xanthan gum 0.10 glycerin 3.00 BHT 0.02 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-5.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper yawing machine with a speed of 7700 rev / min over 6 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 500 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02).

Example 6 (sprayable O / W lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearates 0.30 stearic acid 1.00 cholesterol 0.50 lignoceric 0.50 cetyl alcohol 1.00 Sorbitan Stearate 0.30 Glyceryl stearate 0.30 Caprylic / capric 3.00 paraffin oil 2.00 Cyclomethicone 1.00 tocopheryl acetate 2.00 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 6.0-7.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper Giermaschine with a number of revolutions of 3500 rev / min over 9 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 650 mPas (measured at 25 ° C, a shear rate of 10 s ^-1, device: Haake Viscotester VT-02).

Example 7 (sunscreen spray)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 3.00 cetyl alcohol 1.00 sorbitan 0.50 glyceryl stearate 0.50 octyldodecanol 2.00 paraffin oil 2.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 6.00 xanthan gum 0.10 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Ceramides III 0.05 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 octyl 4.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 octyl salicylate 3.00 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-5.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately together and heated, and then homogenized with a Zahnzahnzdisper yawing machine with a speed of 7700 rev / min over 4 min together nigt.

The emulsion has a viscosity of 1000 mPas (measured with the Haake Vis cotester VT-02 at a temperature of 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 10 s ^-1 ).

Claims (8)

1. A process for the preparation of sprayable emulsions, characterized in that

• a) 2-35 wt .-% of components of an oil phase
• b) at most 10 wt .-% of emulsifiers
• c) 50-95 wt .-% of components of a water phase

combined with one or more O / W emulsifiers and, if desired, one or more W / O emulsifiers, stirred and homogenized over a period of at least 4 minutes at at least 2500 U / min using the standard rotor-stator principle. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the components of the Emul ions satisfy the following conditions: They contain

• A) 1 up to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of a 5 or more substances selected from the group of sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids
• B) from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and / or of propylene glycol and / or of glycol,
• C) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more monoesters of sorbitol,
• D) 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation up to 100, preferably from 5 to 100 .
• E) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one o of the more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms
• F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably selected as a: b: c, wherein a, b and c independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.
• G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,
• H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 10% by weight,
• I) and wherein the preparations are advantageously present in a pH range of 3.5-8.0, preferably at pH values of 4.5-6.5.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the components of the Emul ions satisfy the following conditions: They contain

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from the group of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate,

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the components of the Emul ions satisfy the following conditions: They contain

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more monoesters of sorbitol selected from the group of sorbitan stearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate,

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the components of the Emul ions satisfy the following conditions: They contain

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, selected from the group PEG Stearate, PEG-30 stearate PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the components of the Emul ions satisfy the following conditions: They contain

• A) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one o the more fatty alcohols selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

7. Preparations according to claim 1,

• A) wherein the selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms from the group of wool wax alcohols,
• B) which may contain one or more sterols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols.

8. Preparations according to claim 1, containing at least 2% liquid lipids preference selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides, (c) ethers medium chain fatty alcohols, (d) nonpolar lipids, (e) silicone oils, (f) dialkyl carbonates or mixes from it.