DE10228229A1 - Foamable preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

Foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing DOLLAR A A. at least one emulsifier selected from the group: polyglyceryl-3-methyl-glucose distearate and PEG ester and / or PEG ether with 30 to 100 ethoxy units of the following structure (n between 30 and 100): DOLLAR AR · 1 · - (CH¶2¶-CH¶2¶-O) ¶n¶-R · 2 ·, DOLLAR A in which R1 and R2 are selected independently of one another from the group: hydrogen, alkyl and Acyl radicals with 12 to 40 carbon atoms, DOLLAR A B. at least one coemulsifier, selected from the group: saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, glyceryl stearate DOLLAR A and DOLLAR A C. at least a foam-stabilizing surfactant selected from the group: N-acyl sarcosinates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, polyglycosides with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms and acylglutamates with a chain length of 10 to 28 K. Ohlenstoffatomen, DOLLAR A their use and process for their manufacture.

Description

The present invention relates to expandable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin care expandable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Foams or foam-like preparations belong to the disperse systems.

By far the most important and best known disperse systems are emulsions. Emulsions are two or Multi-phase systems of two or more in one another not or only slightly soluble Liquids. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution before, which is generally only stable to a limited extent.

Foams are made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral Cells which are characterized by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or fixed cell bridges. The cell webs, connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent Framework. The foam lamellae stretch between the cell bars (more closed cells Foam). Are the foam slats destroyed or do they flow at the end of the foam formation back into the cell webs, an open cell is obtained Foam. Foams too are - like emulsions - thermodynamic unstable because surface energy is obtained by reducing the surface can. The stability and thus the existence of a foam depends on how far it succeeds in self-destruction to prevent.

Cosmetic foams are usually dispersed Systems from liquids and gases, the liquid the dispersant and the gas represent the dispersed substance. foams from low-viscosity liquids become temporary through surface active Substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers) stabilized. Such surfactant foams have because of their great inner surface a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes becomes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are found particularly in the areas cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care Use.

Gas is used to produce foam in suitable liquids blown in, or the foam is formed by violent Beating, shaking, Splash or stir the liquid in the gas atmosphere in question, provided that the liquids suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances (so-called Foaming agents) contain, which besides interfacial activity also have a certain film-forming ability.

Have cosmetic foams over others cosmetic preparations have the advantage that they have a fine distribution of the product and in particular the active ingredients contained therein allow the skin.

A disadvantage of the prior art is that emulsion based foams frequently are not very stable, which is why they are usually within collapse about 24 hours. A requirement for cosmetic But preparations is that these one if possible years of stability have.

This problem is general taken into account in that the Consumers use the actual foam only when using it a suitable spray system self-generated, for which spray cans can be used, for example which a liquefied Compressed gas serves as the propellant. Escapes when the pressure valve is opened the propellant-liquid mixture through a fine nozzle, the propellant evaporates and leaves a foam. such State-of-the-art systems develop with the addition of propellant gas exclusively aqueous-moist foams, that break quickly after application.

Even foaming cosmetic preparations are known per se. They are initially in fluid form from an aerosol container applied to the skin and develop after a short delay there under the influence of the contained after-foaming agent the actual foam, for example a shaving cream. Foaming preparations are often in special embodiments such as after-foaming Shaving gels or the like.

Another disadvantage of the stand the technology is that unstable Active substances, d. H. Active substances which, for example, are oxidation (air) or are sensitive to light, only in certain, difficult to formulate Preparations and in very few packaging materials - such as. B. aluminum tubes - presented can be. The skin feeling of these products as well as the consumer acceptance of these packaging materials is common weak.

So it was another task this invention, a cosmetically acceptable product with a high To provide drug stabilization. Interesting active ingredients in this context are ascorbic acid, extracts of green tea as well as its main active components and flavonoids.

An object of the present invention was to enrich the state of the art and cosmetic or dermatological expandable Preparations available to provide, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.

• A. mindestens einen Emulgator, gewählt aus der Gruppe: Polyglyceryl-3-methylglukosedistearat und PEG-Ester und/oder PEG-Ether mit 30 bis 100 Ethoxyeinheiten der folgenden Struktur (n zwischen 30 und 100): R¹-(CH₂-CH₂-O)n-R² , worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe: Wasserstoff, Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einen Coemulgator, gewählt aus der Gruppe: gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte, verzweigte und/oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen, Glycerylstearat und
• C. mindestens ein schaumstabilisierendes Tensid, gewählt aus der Gruppe: N-Acylsarcosinate mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen, Polyglycoside mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoftatomen und Acylglutamate mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen.It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing

• A. at least one emulsifier selected from the group: polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate and PEG ester and / or PEG ether with 30 to 100 ethoxy units of the following structure (n between 30 and 100): R ¹ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) nR ² , in which R1 and R2 are selected independently of one another from the group: hydrogen, alkyl and acyl radicals having 12 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one co-emulsifier selected from the group: saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, glyceryl stearate and
• C. at least one foam stabilizing surfactant selected from the group: N-acyl sarcosinates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, polyglycosides with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms and acylglutamates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms

remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

In the sense of the present, "foamable" is Invention to understand that the Preparations according to the invention foams form when foamed become, d. H. if e.g. B. gas is blown into it or the preparations in the gas atmosphere in question (violently) beaten, shaken, splashed or stirred become. In such foams, the gas bubbles (any) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), being the foams macroscopically not necessarily the appearance of a foam need to have.

From foamable cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention Preparations can be made through foam z. B. macroscopically visible dispersed systems in liquids dispersed gases can be produced. The foam character can but only visible under a (light) microscope, for example become. About that beyond that is foaming the foamable according to the invention Preparations - especially then when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - even at a strong increase in volume of the system can be seen.

The preparations according to the invention provide in extremely in every respect satisfactory preparations. It was particularly surprising that the from the foamable according to the invention Prepared foams - also at one unusual high gas volume - extraordinary are stable. Accordingly, preparations are suitable in the sense of the present invention, particularly as a basis for product forms with diverse To serve applications.

The preparations according to the invention and therefrom available foams show very good sensory properties, such as that Spreadability on the skin or the ability to draw into the skin, and draw yourself beyond through an above average good skin care.

From compositions according to the invention fine-bubble, rich foams of excellent cosmetic elegance available. Are still out compositions according to the invention particularly well tolerated by the skin Preparations available, where valuable ingredients are particularly well distributed on the skin can be.

The subject of the invention is furthermore

• A. mindestens einen Emulgator, gewählt aus der Gruppe: Polyglycenl-3-methylglukosedistearat und PEG-Ester und/oder PEG-Ether mit 30 bis 100 Ethoxyeinheiten der folgenden Struktur (n zwischen 30 und 100): R¹-(CH₂-CH₂-O)_n-R² , worin R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe: Wasserstoff, Alkyl- und Acylreste mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B. mindestens einen Coemulgator, gewählt aus der Gruppe: gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte, verzweigte und/oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen, Glycerylstearat und
• C. mindestens ein schaumstabilisierendes Tensid, gewählt aus der Gruppe: N-Acylsarcosinate mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen, Polyglycoside mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen und Acylglutamate mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 28 Kohlenstoffatomen

als kosmetische oder dermatologische Grundlagen für wasserempfindliche, hydrophile Wirkstoffe.the use of foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing

• A. at least one emulsifier, selected from the group: polyglycenl-3-methylglucose distearate and PEG ester and / or PEG ether with 30 to 100 ethoxy units of the following structure (n between 30 and 100): R ¹ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -R ² , in which R1 and R2 are selected independently of one another from the group: hydrogen, alkyl and acyl radicals having 12 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B. at least one co-emulsifier selected from the group: saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, glyceryl stearate and
• C. at least one foam stabilizing surfactant selected from the group: N-acyl sarcosinates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, polyglycosides with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms and acyl glutamates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms

as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for water-sensitive, hydrophilic active ingredients.

The emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 -Sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15-glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, PEG-20-glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20-glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30-glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 , PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. For example, polyethoxylated stearic acid are particularly advantageous esters.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) are preferably selected from the following group: butyl octanol, butyl decanol, hexyl octanol, hexyl decanol, octyl dodecanol, behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetean alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stean alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax that is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylsteanl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of emulsifiers (one or more compounds) from the range from 0.001 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.002 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of co-emulsifiers (one or more Compounds) from the range of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous from 0.002 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of foam stabilizing surfactants (a or more compounds) in the range from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.0005 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

The foamable cosmetic or dermatological Agent according to the invention can for example from aerosol containers removed and foamed become. Aerosol containers according to the invention are sprayers with a filling from the liquid or mush-like substances under the pressure of a blowing agent stand (compressed gas or aerosol packs). Such containers can with Valves of very different types that are equipped Allow the contents to be removed as foam.

Coming as pressurized gas containers in the sense of the present Invention primarily cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, Content <1000 mL), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (content <220 mL) or splintering Glass or plastic (content <150 mL) in question, when choosing pressure and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy fillability, possibly sterilizability etc., but also aesthetic aspects, Handiness, printability etc. play a role. The maximum permissible Operating pressure of spray cans made of metal at 50 ° C is 12 bar and the maximum filling volume at this temperature approx. 90% of the total volume. For glass and plastic cans apply lower, of the container size and that Propellant (whether liquefied, condensed or loosened Gas) dependent Values for the operating pressure.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of present invention are cans made of tinplate, aluminum and glass. For reasons of corrosion protection can Metal cans to be lacquered on the inside (silver or gold lacquered), for which all commercial Interior protective lacquers are suitable. Preferred in the sense of the present Invention are polyester, epoxyphenol and polyamideimide paints. Also film laminations made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) inside the cans advantageous, especially for Tin cans.

The compressed gas containers are usually one or two, but mostly three-part cylindrical, conical or differently shaped. Are plastics as spray container material used, they should be resistant to chemicals and sterilization temperatures, gas-tight, impact-resistant and against internal pressures above 12 bar be stable. In principle for Spray container purposes are suitable Polyacetals and polyamides.

The internal structure of the spray cans and the valve construction are depending on the intended use and the physical nature of the content - e.g. B. whether as two or as Three phase system - very varied and can by a specialist simply by trying it out without inventive step be determined. For suitable embodiments be on the "aerosol Technology manual of the Aersosol packaging "(Wolfgang Tauschen, Melcher Verlag GmbH Heidelberg / Munich, 1996).

Valves advantageous according to the invention can be designed with or without a riser pipe. The individual parts from which valves according to the invention are usually constructed preferably consist of the following materials:
Plate: tinplate: bare, gold or clear lacquered, foil-laminated (PE, PP or PET)
Aluminum: bright, silver or gold lacquered, different lacquer variants, stoner mudge version
Sealing: natural or synthetic elastomers or thermoplastic (sleeve gaskets, film-lined from PE or PP) inner and outer seals, e.g. B. from Perbunan, Buna, neoprene, butyl, CLB, LDPE, Viton, EPDM, chlorobutyl, bromobutyl and / or various compounds
Taper: PA, POM, brass and various special materials, standard bores (e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 × 0.45 to 2 × 1.00 mm), various shaft diameters
Spring: metal, particularly preferably V2A, stainless steel; Plastic and also elastomer
Housing: Standard and Impact VPH holes, RPT holes or slotted for overhead applications
Materials: e.g. B. polyacetate, PA, PE, POM and the like
Riser pipe: plastic (polymer resin), e.g. PE, PP, PA or polycarbonate

Advantageous spray heads for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, foam heads for upright use (holding the can vertically) or foam heads for overhead use with a or multiple channels.

The usual "classic" propellants are volatile, liquefied Propellants, such as dimethyl ether (DME) and / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms (such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane) suitable, which are used alone or in a mixture with one another can.

Compressed air and other pressurized gases such as air, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, helium, krypton, xenon, radon, argon, laughing gas (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ) are also advantageous as propellants in the sense of the present invention ( both individually and in any mixtures with each other).

Of course, the expert knows that there are others there are non-toxic propellants, which are essential for the realization of the present Invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable to which, however, because of harmful effects on the environment or other circumstances should be avoided, especially halogenated (with fluorine, Chlorine, bromine, iodine and / or astatine substituted) hydrocarbons such as fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFC).

The gases mentioned can For the purposes of the present invention, individually or in any mixtures can be used to each other.

Advantageous in the sense of the present Invention is the volume fraction of propellant gas in the range of 0.1 to 30 vol .-%, based on the total volume of filling and Propellant selected (corresponding to a volume fraction of 70 to 99.9 vol .-% filling material).

Particularly advantageous, fine creamy and rich foams are available if the preparations according to the invention with the help of linear or branched, halogenated or non-halogenated hydrocarbons are foamed. Most notably beneficial foams are by foaming the Preparations according to the invention available with carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air and / or nitrogen.

It may be advantageous although not necessary if the formulations according to the present Invention contain further emulsifiers.

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is chosen advantageously from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

According to the invention, z. B. natural Waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as Beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter and / or Lanolin (wool wax).

Other advantageous polar oil components can in the sense of the present invention can also be selected from the group of Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, Octyldodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, Tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous are z. B. dicapnlyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC at Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene Dicapnlat / dicaprate, C ₁₂ _ ₁₃ alkyl lactate, di-C _12-13 -Alkyltartrat, triisostearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations OF INVENTION to the invention comprises ₁₂ _ ₁₅ -alkyl or a content of C consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under the trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense of use lying invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also be advantageous also non-polar oils contain, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred Substances.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [Poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicones), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI also as Cyclomethicone amino modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which as different Abil wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. But other silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The cosmetic and / or dermatological invention Preparations and those obtainable therefrom foams can as usual be composed. Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are preparations for skin care: they can cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for treatment the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics serve. Another advantageous embodiment of the present Invention is in after-sun products.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present Invention, used for example as a skin protection cream, Day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous as the compositions of the invention basis for to use pharmaceutical formulations.

Just like emulsions of liquid and firm consistency as cosmetic cleaning lotions or cleaning creams Can find use also those from preparations according to the invention available foams represent "cleaning foams", which, for example, for removing make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - if necessary also for blemished skin - used can be. Such cleaning foams can also advantageously used as so-called “rinse off” preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use From cosmetic according to the invention and / or foams obtainable from dermatology can also advantageously be in the form there is a foam to care for the hair or scalp, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam, the blow dryer the hair is used, a hairdressing and treatment foam.

The cosmetic according to the invention are used and dermatological preparations and / or available therefrom foams in the for Cosmetics usual Sufficiently applied to the skin and / or hair.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Alko hole, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Favorable preservatives For the purposes of the present invention, formaldehyde releasers are, for example (such as DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (e.g. the under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB available from Lonza), Parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Usually comprises the preservation system according to the invention also advantageously also preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerin, glycine soy etc.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants as additives or active ingredients be used. Included according to the invention the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tnptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholestenl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaunl thiodipropionate, disteanl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoxim Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoxime in) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as Konyfenlbenzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives , Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its deri vate (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of present invention can water-soluble Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

An amazing property of the Preparations according to the invention is that this very good vehicle for are cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, whereby preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which protect the skin from being oxidative Protect stress can. It was particularly surprising that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations of water-sensitive, hydrophilic active substances - in particular Ascorbic acid - better stabilize against decay than the preparations of the stand of technology and that it also excellent cosmetic and dermatological means of transport for ascorbic acid and / or Represent ascorbyl compounds.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.0001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.0005 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

Also preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives, the antioxidant (s) represent is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight the wording to choose.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or whose derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) ), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, coftein, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® .

The will be particularly advantageous or the active ingredients are also selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are said to serve.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is the nitroarginine.

The or will be further advantageous the active ingredients selected from the group which catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or comprises organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as the leaves the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia species sinensis (greener Tea). Their typical ingredients are particularly advantageous (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, Lipids).

Catechins represent a group of Compounds to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins are and derivatives of "catechins" (Catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) represent. Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Vegetable are also advantageous excerpts Containing catechins, in particular green tea extracts, such as B. Extracts from leaves of plants of the species Camellia spec., especially of the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien sis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also Polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin, (-) - gallocatechin, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin Gallat, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones come in the Usually in glycosidated form.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₇ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxysowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₆ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxysowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of The present invention is to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin are also advantageous according to the invention (Aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, Hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, Quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, Melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D glucopyranoside)) Monoxerutin (3,3,4 ', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), Eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), Flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflava non-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3 - ((3-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to the or to choose the active substances from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

aus und stellen die am weitesten verbreiteten und damit am besten untersuchten Biochinone dar. Ubichinone werden je nach Zahl der in der Seitenkette verknüpften Isopren-Einheiten als Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 usw. oder nach Anzahl der C-Atome als U-5, U-10, U-15 usw. bezeichnet. Sie treten bevorzugt mit bestimmten Kettenlängen auf, z. B. in einigen Mikroorganismen und Hefen mit n = 6. Bei den meisten Säugetieren einschließlich des Menschen überwiegt Q10.Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Plastochinone weisen die allgemeine Strukturformel

auf. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and those at the Carboxyl group esterified with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Derivatives.

wobei R gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylreste mit bis zu 10 Kohlenstoffatomen sind vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung. Bevorzugt sind Propionylcarnitin und insbesondere Acetylcarnitin. Beide Enantiomere (D- und L-Form) sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwen den. Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, beliebige Enantiomerengemische, beispielsweise ein Racemat aus D- und L-Form, zu verwenden.Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both enantiomers (D and L form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are Sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Zu preparations can of course not be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von (Trockenheits-) Fältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach dem Waschen).

Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of (dryness) wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

• d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• e) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• f) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

Surprisingly, selected formulations according to the invention also have an anti-wrinkle effect or the effect of known Increase anti-wrinkle agents significantly. Suitable accordingly formulations in the sense of the present invention in particular advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin lesions, as they e.g. B. occur in skin aging. Also advantageous they are suitable against the appearance of dry or rough Skin.

In a special embodiment The present invention therefore relates to products for the care of natural Wise aged skin, as well as to treat the consequential damage of the Light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can be beneficial usual contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or Isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably Propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or -monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes as well as moisturizer.

Fabrics or Mixtures of substances referred to which cosmetic or dermatological Give preparations the property after application or Spread the on the skin surface Release of moisture from the horny layer (also transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or the hydration of the horny layer to positively influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel ^® 1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, Calcium and beirium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1 - (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo- 1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and Zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, Aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5, 7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Oil-soluble natural dyes are also advantageous, such as B. paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B. – „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und – „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B. - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and - "mother-of-pearl" (milled mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example powdery Pigments or castor oil dispersions from Bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Z are particularly preferred. B. the from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available Pearlescent pigments.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronasphe ren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be an advantage completely to do without a substrate like mica. Particularly preferred are iron pearlescent pigments, which without the use of mica getting produced. Such pigments are e.g. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 available from BASF.

Are also particularly advantageous also effect pigments, which are sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / slide in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are in mixtures with different ones Auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, with different coating thicknesses generally making them different ne color effects are caused. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is also beneficial in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations to create whose main The purpose of protection from sunlight is not, but it still does Contain UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cheap are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations that in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain in the sense of the present invention preferably next to one or several UV filter substances according to the invention additionally at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The Formulations can although not necessary, possibly one or more organic ones and / or contain inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the present Invention can also advantageously in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological Emulsions are present which have a water phase and at least one liquid at room temperature UV filter substance included as a further phase and which is particularly advantageous also free of other oil components could be.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate-isopentylinnamate-isopentamido-isopentamido : isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can be advantageous in the sense of present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions can advantageously be used as dispersants and / or solubilizing agents may be added.

The pigments can be advantageous according to the invention superficial treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic Character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The various surface coatings can be in According to the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, Lauric acid, Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. This organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US 5,663,213 respectively. EP 0 761 201 , Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

• – Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-0xo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo- bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-0xo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

worin R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylreste mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoftatomen. Es ist erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaft, die Reste R¹ und R² gleich zu wählen, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der verzweigten Alkylreste mit 3 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen. Es ist ferner besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wenn R³ einen unverzweigten oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 8 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere den 2-Ethylhexylrest darstellt.Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are characterized by the following structural formula,

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are selected independently of one another from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb^® K2A erhältlich ist.Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb ^® K2A.

That or the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously in dissolved Form in the cosmetic according to the invention Preparations. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative or derivatives in pigmentary, d. H. undissolved form - for example in particle sizes of 10 nm up to 300 nm.

worinAdvantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

• - R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5 or 6 ring and
• - R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical.

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances In the sense of the present invention, so-called broadband filters are also i.e. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• – Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• – 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltrümino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• – 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725-22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris- [ anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150;
• - 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2N-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCI: Methylene Bis-Benztriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol), which is available, for example, under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous broadband filter in For the purposes of the present invention, 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy ] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• – an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• - UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, contain in addition to or the filter substances according to the invention) furthermore preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used within the meaning of the present invention Of course not be limiting.

The preparations advantageously contain according to the present Invention the substances that UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range absorb, in a total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic Preparations available to place the hair or skin in front of the entire area protect from ultraviolet radiation.

The preparations according to the present Invention can also advantageously self-tanning substances contain, such as dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

Beispiel 2 (schaumförmiae O/W-Cremel:

Beispiel 3 (O/W-Emulsions-Make-up):

Beispiel 4 (schaumförmige O/W-Sonnenschutzcreme):

Beispiel 5 (schaumförmige O/W-Sonnenschutzcreme):

Beispiel 6 (schaumförmige O/W-Creme):

Beispiel 7 (schaumförmige O/VU-Creme):

Beispiel 8 (schaumförmige O/W-Sonnenschutzcreme):

Beispiel 9 (schaumförmige O/W-Creme):

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Example 1 (foam-shaped O / W cream):

Example 2 (foam-shaped O / W cream:

Example 3 (O / W emulsion make-up):

Example 4 (foam-shaped O / W sun protection cream):

Example 5 (foam-shaped O / W sun protection cream):

Example 6 (foam-shaped O / W cream):

Example 7 (foam-like O / VU cream):

Example 8 (foam-shaped O / W sun protection cream):

Example 9 (foam-shaped O / W cream):

Claims (16)

Foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing A) at least one emulsifier selected from the group: polyglycenl-3-methylglucose distearate and PEG ester and / or PEG ether with 30 to 100 ethoxy units of the following structure (n between 30 and 100): R ₁ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) nR ² , in which R1 and R2 are selected independently of one another from the group: hydrogen, alkyl and acyl radicals having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, B) at least one coemulsifier, selected from the group: saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a Chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, glyceryl stearate and C) at least one foam-stabilizing surfactant, selected from the group: N-acyl sarcosinates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, polyglycosides with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms and acyl glutamates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or Emulsifiers (A) are selected from the group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate , PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG 20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG 20 glyceryl oleate, PEG 20 stearate, PEG 20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG 30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG 20 glyceryl laurate -30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the co-emulsifier (s) are selected from the group: butyl octanol, butyl decanol, hexyl octanol, hexyl decanol, octyl dodecanol, behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetene alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol ( C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax) Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they at least one water soluble Contains active ingredient. Preparation according to claim 4, characterized in that the or the water-soluble ones Active ingredients selected are from the group ascorbic acid and derivatives, extracts of green Teas, proteases, lipases, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, creatine and Derivatives, panthenol and amino acids or their derivatives. Preparation according to one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that that the or the water-soluble ones Active ingredients selected are from the group ascorbic acid and / or flavonoids. Preparation according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that that the or the water-soluble ones Active substances are present in a concentration of 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that a) as an emulsifier, a combination of an ester of polyethylene glycol with one or more polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers, b) as Co-emulsifiers glyceryl monostearate in combination with one or several fatty alcohols, c) as a foam stabilizing surfactant an N-acyl sarcosinate, d) as a water-soluble active ingredient, ascorbic acid, extract of the green Teas and / or flavonoids selected become. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that a) an alkyl polyglycoside as emulsifier, b) as a co-emulsifier sorbitan stearate in combination with one or more fatty alcohols, c) as foam stabilizing surfactant an N-acyl sarcosinate, d) as water Active ingredient ascorbic acid, Creatine and / or isoflavonoids can be selected. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that the Total amount of emulsifiers (one or more compounds) the range of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight the wording become. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they one or more substances selected from the group of moisturizers, contains. Process for the production of foams thereby characterized that preparations according to one of the Expectations 1 to 11 when removing from a pressurized gas container with the help of a) linear and / or branched chain, halogenated and / or non-halogenated hydrocarbons, b) carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air and / or nitrogen and / or c) Dimethyl ether are foamed. A method according to claim 12, characterized in that the Compressed gas containers in the form of cylindrical vessels. A method according to claim 12, characterized in that the Compressed gas containers made of metal or non-splintering glass or plastic. A method according to claim 12, characterized in that the Compressed gas containers from protected, splintering Glass or protected, splintering plastic. Use of foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing A. at least one emulsifier selected from the group: polyglycenl-3-methylglucose distearate and PEG ester and / or PEG ether with 30 to 100 ethoxy units of the following structure (n between 30 and 100): R ¹ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) nR ² , wherein R1 and R2 are independently selected from the group: hydrogen, alkyl and acyl radicals having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, B. at least one coemulsifier, selected from the group: saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a Chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, glyceryl stearate and C. at least one foam-stabilizing surfactant, selected from the group: N-acyl sarcosinates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms, polyglycosides with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms and acylglutamates with a chain length of 10 to 28 carbon atoms as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for water-sensitive, hydrophilic active ingredients.