DE10139582A1 - W/O/W emulsions useful e.g. cleansing, skin-care or anti-acne agents comprises a combination of steroids, fatty acids and optionally ethoxylated esters - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological W/O/W emulsions comprise: (A) steroid or (un)saturated 12-40C fatty acid; (B) ester of (un)saturated 14-40C fatty acids with glycerol, propyleneglycol or a glycol; (C) ester of (un)saturated 14-40C fatty acids with sorbitan; (D) ethoxylated ester of 12-40C fatty acid of ethoxylation degree up to 100; and (E) (un)saturated 12-40C fatty alcohol. Cosmetic or dermatological W/O/W emulsion, pH 3.5-8.0 preferably 4.5-6.5, comprises (wt.%): (A) steroid or (un)saturated 12-40C fatty acid (1-5); (B) mono-, sesqui-, di- or tri-ester of (un)saturated 14-40C fatty acids with glycerol, propyleneglycol or a glycol (0.1-1.5); (C) mono-, sesqui-, di- or tri-ester of (un)saturated 14-40C fatty acids with sorbitan and optionally with a polyethoxylation degree of 0-100 (0.1-1.15); (D) ethoxylated ester of 12-40C fatty acid of ethoxylation degree up to 100, especially 5-100 (0.1-1.5); and (E) (un)saturated 12-40C fatty alcohol (0.5-5). The ratio (B):(C):(D) is a:b:c where a, b and c are rational numbers of 1-5 (especially 1-3), the ratio ((B)+(C)+(D)):(E) is 5:1-1:5 and the sum of (A) to (E) is a maximum of 14.5 wt.%. An Independent claim is included for the preparation of the W/O/W emulsion that comprises heating the oil- and aqueous-phase components together while stirring under low energy using a tooth-geared disperser operating at up to 6,000 rpm (especially 1,500-4,800 rpm).

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological emulsions, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions. In an advantageous Embodiment, the present invention relates to an application that allows the Stability of fatty acid-containing preparations, in particular emulsions, preferably of W / O / W emulsions to increase.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the Skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevented, probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of outside materials. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which acts as outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. With about one Tenths of the total thickness is the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which is the important part for the barrier function. Today in the Elias skin model recognized by experts (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the Horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick mortar Model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks that complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to this Mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic Substances, but due to its narrow and multi-layered structure it can be used equally difficult to pass even by lipophilic substances.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness, process for their Production and use of active ingredients to reduce the Cosmetic preparations feeling sticky.

In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on it the smoothness of the skin. Unlike the sebum lipids, which do not have a closed film on them of the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the Lipids from the upper layers of the skin are very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore usually contain cosmetics, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, there is also the physical behavior of these substances matter. Therefore the development of very well biocompatible Emulsifiers or surfactants are desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their Molecular components consist of substances naturally occurring in the epidermis.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Medications in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, it becomes clean Differentiation between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products referred to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. This means in generally a heterogeneous system consisting of two which are immiscible or only miscible with one another Liquids commonly referred to as phases. One is in shape of droplets before (dispere or inner phase) while the other liquid is a forms a continuous (coherent or internal phase). Rarer dosage forms are multiple Emulsions, i.e. those which are in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, e.g. B. W / O / W- Emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

Recent findings have led to a better understanding of practice-related issues cosmetic emulsions. It is assumed that those used in excess Form emulsifier mixtures of lamellar liquid-crystalline phases or crystalline gel phases. In gel network theory, stability and physicochemical properties become such Emulsions attributed to the formation of viscoelastic gel meshes.

In simple emulsions, one phase is finely dispersed, from an emulsifier shell enclosed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions). In a multiple emulsion (second degree), however, are in such droplets of finely dispersed droplets of the first phase emulsified. Even in these Droplets in turn can be even finer disperse droplets (multiple emulsion third Degrees) and so on.

Just as we speak of simple emulsions as W / O or O / W emulsions (Water-in-oil or oil-in-water), there are multiple emulsions W / O / W-, O / W / O-, O / W / O / W, W / O / W / O emulsions and so on.

A W / O / W emulsion is shown schematically in FIG. 1, the hatched areas denoting the outer and inner water phase and the white areas denoting the oil phase.

Multiple emulsions in which the respective inner and outer water phases or inner and outer oil phases are different (e.g. W / O / W'- and O / W / O'- Emulsions), the preparation is accessible by two-pot processes. Such emulsions, in which the inner and outer water or oil phases are not different, are available in both one-pot and two-pot processes.

The second degree multiple emulsions are sometimes called "bimultiple systems", such third degrees are called "trimultiple systems" etc. (W. Seifriz, Studies in Emulsions, J. Phys. Chem., 29 (1925) 738-749).

Methods for producing multiple emulsions are known per se to the person skilled in the art. So there There are two-pot processes in which a simple emulsion (e.g. a W / O emulsion) is presented and by adding another phase (e.g. a water phase) with a corresponding one Emulsifier (e.g. an O / W emulsifier) in a multiple emulsion (e.g. a W / O / W emulsion) is transferred.

A second method is to use an oil phase and an emulsifier mixture To convert the water phase into a multiple w / o / w emulsion in a one-pot process. The Emulsifiers are dissolved in the oil phase and combined with the water phase. A prerequisite for such a process is that the HLB values (HLB = hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of the individual emulsifiers used differ significantly from one another.

Thus, an object of the present invention was cosmetic or dermatological To provide preparations with excellent skin-care properties.

A further object of the present invention was to provide preparations places that significantly improve the condition of the skin, especially the skin roughness Reduce.

While it is known to add certain substances, for example some selected powder raw materials, especially talc, a feeling of stickiness or Reduce feeling of lubricity. Apart from the fact that this rarely succeeds completely, such an addition also changes the viscosity of the product in question and reduced stability.

The task was therefore to remedy all of these disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, products with reduced stickiness or greasiness should be available be put. Products in the field of cosmetic care, decorative Cosmetics and pharmacological galenics should be alike from those described Disadvantages of the prior art are exempt.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to provide cosmetic bases for cosmetic To develop preparations that are characterized by good skin tolerance.

Known cosmetic preparations are so-called "stearate emulsions" which stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or alkali salts of stearic acid and / or the Palmitic acid are effective as an emulsifier. These preparations can advantageously be used as W / O / W emulsions are present and are characterized by good skin feel and very good Skin care performance. It is disadvantageous, however, that fatty acids in a pH range of 3.5-8.0 tend to crystallize (especially in a pH range below 7.0), which means that pleasant feeling on the skin, skin care performance and the external appearance of a corresponding preparation are severely impaired.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define is. The interfacial tension towards water has already been proposed as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. It applies that the lower the polarity of the oil phase in question, the greater the Interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the Interfacial tension as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component considered.

The interfacial tension is the force on an imaginary, in the interface line of length of one meter between two phases acts. The physical The unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship Force / length and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. in the conversely, it has a negative sign.

Table 1 below lists medium-polar lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or as a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also possible to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like, so that an overall polarity of the oil phase is in the middle range.

According to the teaching presented here, W / O emulsions are available whose viscosity is 25 ° C less than 5000 mPa.s (= millipascal seconds), especially less than 4000 mPa.s, preferably less than 3500 mPa.s (HAAKE Viscotester VT-02).

For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase can furthermore - provided that in the Features listed in patent claims are observed - advantageously contain substances, selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageous are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

It was also an object of the present invention to provide products with the broadest possible To provide a variety of applications. For example, basics for Forms of preparation such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, however pronounced medical-pharmaceutical dosage forms are also created, for example preparations against acne and other skin symptoms.

• A) 1 bis zu 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, eineroder mehrerer Substanzen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Sterine, verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten C₁₂-C₄₀-Fettsäuren,
• B) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, eines oder mehrerer Mono-, Sesqui-, Di-, Triestern von gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigten oder verzweigtkettigen Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von C₁₄-C₄₀ des Glycerols und/oder des Propylenglycols und/oder des Glykols,
• C) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung einesoder mehrerer Mono-, Sesqui-, Di-, Triester von gesättigten oder ungesättigten,geradkettigten oder verzweigtkettigen Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von C₁₄-C₄₀ des Sorbitans und optional mit einem Polyethoxylierungsgrad von 0-100,
• D) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, eines oder mehrerer ethoxylierter Fettsäureester; mit Fettsäuren der Kettenlänge C₁₂-C₄₀ und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad bis zu 100, bevorzugt von 5-100,
• E) 0,5-5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer oder mehrere Fettalkohole, gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen
• F) wobei das Verhältnis aus (II) : (III) : (IV) vorzugsweise gewählt wie a : b : c wird, wobei a, b und c unabhängig voneinander rationale Zahlen von 1 bis 5, bevorzugt von 1 bis 3 darstellen wird
• G) sowie das Verhältnis aus (II)+(III)+(IV) zu (V) vorzugsweise im Bereich 5 : 1 bis 1 : 5 liegt,
• H) wobei die Summe aus (I), (II), (III), (IV) und (V) maximal 14,5 Gew.-% beträgt,
• I) und wobei die Zubereitungen vorteilhaft in einem pH-Bereich von 3,5-8,0 (insbesondere bei pH-Werten von 4,5-6,5) vorliegen,

den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. It has been shown surprisingly, and this is the solution to these problems, that cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a W / O / W emulsion

• A) 1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from the group of sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids,
• B) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono-, sesqui, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of C ₁₄ -C ₄₀ of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or glycol,
• C) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of C ₁₄ -C ₄₀ of sorbitan and optionally with a degree of polyethoxylation of 0-100,
• D) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters; with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation up to 100, preferably from 5-100,
• E) 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms
• F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably chosen as a: b: c, where a, b and c will independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3
• G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,
• H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 14.5% by weight,
• I) and where the preparations are advantageously in a pH range of 3.5-8.0 (in particular at pH values of 4.5-6.5),

remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase is particularly advantageous Total polarity between 15 and 40 mN / m, preferably 20-35 mN / m.

• - besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• - besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• - sich durch bessere Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,
• - besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und medizinisch-dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen
• - höhere Stabilität gegenüber der Kristallisation der eingesetzten Fettsäuren aufweisen und
• - sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden
• - sich durch ein besseres Hautgefühl und durch höhere kosmetische Eleganz auszeichnen würden
• - sich über eine breite kosmetische Variabilität auszeichnen würden und über breite Konsistenz- und Viskositätsbereiche von 400 mPas bis > 20 000 mPa.s formulieren lassen würden

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote smoothing of the skin,
• - are characterized by better care effects,
• - better serve as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients
• - have higher stability towards the crystallization of the fatty acids used and
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility
• - would be characterized by a better feeling on the skin and a higher cosmetic elegance
• - would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and would be formulated over a wide range of consistency and viscosity from 400 mPas to> 20,000 mPa.s

than the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention can be formulated in a cream-like manner and have very good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of stickiness, and have a very good skin tolerance and skin care performance.

Sterols are steroids that only have a hydroxyl group in the 3-position, but not otherwise wear functional group, thus formally represent alcohols more logical terms sterols used. In addition, the sterols containing 27 to 30 carbon atoms have generally a double bond in the 5/6 position, less often also / or in 7/8, 8/9 and other positions (e.g. 22/23).

The sterols are in the form of lipids - mostly in the form of esters (formerly called steroids) Nature widespread. The sterols found in the animal kingdom are called zoosterols. The most important representative is cholesterol. More zoosterols were found in wool fat (lanosterol), in Wool wax (dihydrolanosterol), in the silkworm, in sponges (spongosterol), Starfish, sea urchins, oysters etc.

Cholesterol is characterized by the following structure:

Lanosterin is characterized by the following structure:

Dihydrolanosterol is characterized by the following structure:

The plant sterols are called phytosterols. Your main representatives are Ergosterin, Stigmasterin and Sitosterin. You can find some in cosmetics. Products use. Occasionally, the sterols from fungi and yeast are separated from the group of phytosterols as mycosterols (e.g. ergosterol, fungister, stellasterin and zymosterol).

Examples of phytosterols are:

All phytosterols to be used according to the invention have more or less large number of optical isomers, which are not to be listed here in detail, but which have proven to be advantageous, provided that they are cosmetically harmless is out of the question.

Preferred sterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.

Preferred fatty acids are stearic acid and / or palmitic acid (stearin) and Lignoceric.

• A) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer oder mehrerer Glycol- bzw. Glycerylester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Mono-, Sesqui-, Di- und Triester der Glycole (= vic-Diole bzw. 1,2-Diole) bzw. des Glycerols (1,2,3- Trihydroxypropane) mit Fettsäuren der Kettenlänge C₁₂-C₄₀ (geradzahlig, gesättigt, ungesättigt und verzweigt) Beispiele: Glycerylmonostearat, Glyceryldistearat, Propylenglycolmonostearat, Glycerylisostearat, Glyceryllanolat, Glycerylmyristat, Glyceryllaurat, Glyceryloleat, Glycerylstearatcitrat.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more glycol or glyceryl esters selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-, di- and triesters of the glycols (= vic -Diols or 1,2-diols) or of glycerol (1,2,3-trihydroxypropane) with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) Examples: glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl isostearate , Glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate citrate.

• A) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-% eines oder mehrere Sorbitanester, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Mono-, Sesqui-, Di- und Triester der Sorbitane (= Monoanhydrosorbite bzw. 1,5- Anhydro-D-Sorbit) mit Fettsäuren der Kettenlänge C₁₂-C₄₀ (geradzahlig, gesättigt, ungesättigt und verzweigt) sowie optional einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 10-100). Beispiele: Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitandistearat, Sorbitanisostearat, Sorbitanoleat, PEG- 40-Sorbitanperoleat, PEG-40-Sorbitanperisostearat, Sorbitansesquioleat.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight of one or more sorbitan esters, selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui, di- and triesters of sorbitans (= monoanhydrosorbites or 1,5-anhydro-D-sorbitol ) with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) and optionally a degree of ethoxylation of 10-100). Examples: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate.

• A) 0,1 bis zu 1,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, eines oder mehrerer ethoxylierter Fettsäureester, mit Fettsäuren der Kettenlänge C₁₂-C₄₀ und einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5-100, insbesondere gewählt aus der Gruppe PEG-20 Stearat, PEG-30 Stearat, PEG-40-Stearat, PEG-100 Stearat.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, in particular selected from the group PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

• A) 0,5-5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, einer oder mehrere verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettalkohole, gewählt aus der Gruppe Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, lsocetylalkohol, Cetylstearylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Behenylalkohol und Mischungen daraus.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols, selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures it.

The total amount of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols from 12 to 40 Carbon atoms in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously selected from the range of 0.1-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-3.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

Wool wax alcohols (CAS No. 8027-33-6) represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax that is obtained after the saponification of the wool wax. They consist of approximately 25.2% cholesterol, 2.7% lanosterol, 2.2% dihydrolanosterol and approximately 29.5% aliphatic monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₃₂ alcohols. Wool wax alcohols are therefore used for the production of ointment bases, from which mostly W / O emulsions are made.

• A) wobei die aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten, gesättigten und ungesättigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen aus der Gruppe der Wollwachsalkohole gewählt werden,
• B) wobei diese Wollwachsalkohole neben den aliphatischen Alkoholen auch ein oder mehrere Sterine, beispielsweise Cholesterol, Lanosterol, Dihydrolanosterol, enthalten.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention therefore relate to preparations according to

• A) where those from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms are selected from the group of wool wax alcohols,
• B) these wool wax alcohols contain, in addition to the aliphatic alcohols, also one or more sterols, for example cholesterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol.

For example, advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O / W emulsions, containing at least 3% liquid lipids (preferably selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides and (c) ethers of medium-chain fatty alcohols, (d) non-polar lipids or (e) Silicone oils or mixtures thereof).

In the context of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, the term "lipids" is sometimes used, as is well known to those skilled in the art is common. The terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define is. The interfacial tension towards water has already been proposed as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. It applies that the lower the polarity of the oil phase in question, the greater the Interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the Interfacial tension as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component considered.

The interfacial tension is the force on an imaginary, in the interface line of length of one meter between two phases acts. The physical The unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship Force / length and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). It has a positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. in the conversely, it has a negative sign. As polar in the sense of the present Invention are considered lipids whose interfacial tension against water is less than 30 mN / m is.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of lecithins and Fatty acid triglycerides, especially the saturated and / or unsaturated, branched triglycerol esters and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 up to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, be selected advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, Wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from Group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a content of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise according to the reaction equation


by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically cause no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure


out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure


and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure


and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also according to the invention to use advantageously. Mixtures of 2-butyl octanol and 2-hexyl decanol are examples under the trade name Isofol® 14 from the company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageously used in the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 2 below lists lipids which are advantageous according to the invention as individual substances or as a mixture with one another. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like.

• - Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• - wäßrige ethanolische Lösungen
• - natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

The following can be used as basic components of the preparations according to the invention:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• - natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular.

The oil phase of the emulsions for the purposes of the present invention is according to the invention preferably predominantly from components of the type listed under point (4), wherein it however, it is possible to accept up to 50% by weight without major disadvantages, preferably up to 40% by weight of the total weight of the oil components from the group other oil components to choose. These can then advantageously be chosen from the Group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the Group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more if the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes can be selected. Are cheap according to the invention, for example Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, Rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, Jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, Ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, if the Main claim required conditions are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C ₁₆ -C ₃₆ fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ - Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C ₃₀ -C ₅₀ alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also of particular advantage are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be used both individually and in Mixture.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether if the conditions are met in the main claim.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether or mixtures of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkylbenzoate are particularly advantageous , 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated To use polyisobutene or polydecene advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. provided the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

W / O / W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously with the aid of the usual O / W emulsifiers, if necessary with the aid of W / O emulsifiers or others Co-emulsifiers are produced.

W / O / W emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain furthermore one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the Group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:

Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearic acid, stearic acid, stearic acid, stearic acid Sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, 3-oleaginate oil and glyceryl oleate and polyglycerylated glyceryl and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl oleate and polyglycerylated oleate and glyceryl oleate and 3-polyhydrogenated and hydrated castor oil, and 3-polyhydric oil, and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl oleate and glyceryl oleate and polyglycerylated oleate and 3-glycerylated-oil and glyceryl-7-oleate and hydrated castor oil Castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ -alkylacrylate cross-polymer, polypolymer, dipolymer arate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-polyglyceryl-4.

W / O / W emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40-castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, 4-phosphate, lecithin-trilaurethate-trilaurethate-trilaurethate Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with P Stearate, Laureth-4, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, Laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40-stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22-Dod Glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methylglucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20-stearate, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth- 20, P. EG-451 dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyldiglycerylsuccinate, stearamidopropylchlorate-PG-dimat SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethylglucose distearate, potassium cetylethylphosphate, isostyl phosphate, isostyl phosphate 10-isostyl phosphate, isostyl phosphate 10-isostyl phosphate, isostyl phosphate, 10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a Sunscreen cream or a sunscreen milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, Oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more Emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional ones Active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, Alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Contain medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. The simplicity for the sake of a clean distinction between cosmetic and medical Application and corresponding products to the legal requirements of Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and Drugs Act).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the For the purposes of the present invention, depending on its structure, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sun protection lotion, nutrient cream, daily or Night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the inventive To use compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is also advantageous to use the properties according to the invention in the form of make use of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the Form of a sunscreen. These preferably contain in addition to the Active ingredient used according to the invention additionally at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention to use such cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually used in day creams incorporated.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which Absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1% by weight up to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is based on the total weight of the preparations.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher,
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl}ester, Salicylsäure(4- isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-Benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl} ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z. B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze,
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. B. sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is intended of course, not to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of Dibenzoylmethane, especially 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and um 1-Phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Even preparations that this Combinations are the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA Filter substances are used, which were named for UVB filter substances.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments that are commonly used in cosmetics Protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of Titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as variations in which the oxides are the active agents. Especially it is preferably pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can be used for Amounts mentioned above combinations are used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as usually in such Preparations are used, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, Perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments, the coloring Have an effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or others usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or Silicone derivatives.

It is advantageous to add the preparations in the sense of the present invention Add anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory agents, especially batyl alcohol (α-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous to use the preparations customary for the purposes of the present invention Add antioxidants. According to the invention, all of the following can be used as favorable antioxidants cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and others Thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone -, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very geri compatible doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluic acid, northern dihydrogenated urethane, butylated hydroxyl urethane , Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), St ilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations based on the range of 0.001-10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation.

Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All for Deodorants or antiperspirants active ingredients can be used advantageously , for example odor maskers like the common perfume ingredients, Odor absorbers, for example those described in the patent application DE-P 40 09 347 Layered silicates, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, ilite, beidellite, nontronite, Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable in the preparations according to the invention to be incorporated. Examples of advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, Triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the Patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients. Also Sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character, which in addition to an effective content of substances used according to the invention and solvents usually used therefor, preferably water, still further organic thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate), cellulose, Cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, z. B. aluminum silicates such as organically modified or unmodified Hectorite, bentonite, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and Polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, contain.

Furthermore, it can be advantageous to prepare preparations according to the invention Add surface-active agents, for example cationic emulsifiers such as in particular quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that has 4 alkyl or aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The Cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromide, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, Alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Are particularly advantageous To use cetyltrimethylammonium salts.

It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (e.g. Jaguar® C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride]) or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (e.g. Quaternium-18 hectorite, which e.g. B. under the trade name Bentone® 38 at the company Rheox is available, or stearalkonium hectorite, which z. B. under the Trade name Softisan® Gel is available from Hüls AG).

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the consistency of the pencil. advantageous Oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, others Solids, such as B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil®, which are from Degussa AG are available. Advantageous Aerosil® types are, for example, Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80; Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.

So-called metal soaps (i.e. the salts of higher fatty acids are also exceptions) the alkali salts) advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as for example aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

It is also advantageous to prepare amphoteric or zwitterionic preparations according to the invention Add surfactants (e.g. cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizers (e.g. betaine). Advantageous Amphoteric surfactants to be used are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, Disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and Sodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, Alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The amount of surfactants (one or more Compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

An amazing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good Vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin are preferred Active ingredients are the aforementioned antioxidants, which protect the skin from being oxidative Can protect stress.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) ), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances choose, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO Synthase inhibitors, especially when the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation to serve on the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or comprises parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of Have catechins, such as the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their are particularly advantageous typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present Invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular, are also advantageous Green tea extracts such as B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in Table 3 below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, the flavone glycoside or flavones is particularly advantageous to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-Giucosylisoquercetin and α-Glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside) are also advantageous according to the invention, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O- rutinosid). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, Birutan, Rutabion, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2- hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7- glucoside), flavanomareïn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and that on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols esterified derivatives.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can of course not be limiting his. The active substances can be used individually or in any combination with one another be used.

The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Preparations according to the invention are advantageously produced in that the Components of the oil phase or water phase are combined separately and heated, and then with stirring with a low energy input, advantageously with the aid of a Gear rim dispersing machine with a speed of up to 6000 rpm, preferably from 1500 to 4800 rpm, combined.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Example 1 (W / O / W cream) Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 lignoceric 1.00 cetyl alcohol 5.00 PEG-20 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 octyldodecanol 6.00 Isopropylpalmitate 1.00 Octylstearate 1.00 myristate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.10 Ceramides III 0.50 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of rotation of 1500 rpm. Example 2 (W / O / W lotion) Wt .-% cholesterol 2.50 lanosterol 0.50 lanolin 0.50 Myristylalcohol 1.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 2.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Propylenglycoldicaprylatldicaprat 3.00 octyl palmitate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 retinol 0.20 potassium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0

The constituents of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 3600 rpm. Example 3 (W / O / W lotion) Wt .-% stearic acid 3.00 Myristylalcohol 1.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Propylene / dicaprate 3.00 octyl palmitate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 retinol 0.20 potassium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 2400 rpm. Example 4 (W / O / W cream) Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 3.00 cholesterol 1.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 4.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 sorbitan 0.50 Caprylic / capric 3.00 hexyl 4.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 5.00 Ceramide II 0.07 xanthan gum 0.10 citric acid 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 1500 rpm. Example 5 (W / O / W Emulsion Makeup) Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 1.00 stearic acid 3.00 lanolin 0.50 cholesterol 0.25 lignoceric 0.25 cetyl alcohol 2.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 Cetylstearylisononanoate 2.00 hexyldecanol 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 mica 1.00 magnesium silicate 1.00 iron oxides 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 retinol 0.20 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a rotational speed of 1800 rpm. Example 6 (W / O / W cream) Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 1.00 lignoceric 1.00 cholesterol 1.00 lanolin 1.00 cetyl alcohol 4.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl 1.00 octyldodecyl 3.00 octyldodecanol 3.00 tricaprylin 2.00 Butyleneglycolcaprylat / caprate 2.00 Cyclomethicone 1.00 Ceramide 0.50 Vitamin E Acetate 1.00 xanthan gum 0.10 glycerin 3.00 BHT 0.02 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are combined separately - and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a speed of 2800 rpm. Example 7 (W / O / W lotion) Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 2.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 Sorbitan stearate 0.50 Glyceryl stearate 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 Octylpalmitate 2.00 tocopheryl acetate 2.00 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 Ceramides III 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0

The constituents of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then combined with one another with stirring using a gear rim dispersing machine at a rotational speed of 2800 rpm. Example 8 (sun protection cream) Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 1.00 stearic acid 2.00 cholesterol 1.00 lignoceric 1.00 cetyl alcohol 4.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 octyldodecanol 4.00 paraffin oil 2.00 butyloctanol 6.00 xanthan gum 0.10 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 octyl 4.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 octyl salicylate 3.00 Alpha-glucosyl 0.20 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. qs water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.0-5.5

The components of the oil phase and the water phase are combined separately and heated, and then with stirring with a ring gear dispersing machine with a Revolutions of 3300 rpm combined.

Claims (8)

1. Containing cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a W / O / W emulsion A) 1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from the group of sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids, B) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono-, sesqui, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of C ₁₄ -C ₄₀ of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or glycol, C) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more mono-, sesqui-, di-, triesters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain fatty acids with a chain length of C ₁₄ -C ₄₀ of sorbitan and optionally with a degree of polyethoxylation of 0-100, D) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of up to 100, preferably from 5-100, E) 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably chosen as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5, H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 14.5% by weight, I) and the preparations are advantageously present in a pH range of 3.5-8.0, preferably at pH values of 4.5-6.5. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, containing A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more glycol or glyceryl esters selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui-, di- and triesters of the glycols (= vic Diols or 1,2-diols) or glycerol (1,2,3-trihydroxypropane) with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ (even numbered, saturated, unsaturated and branched). 3. Preparations according to claim 1, containing A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight of one or more sorbitan esters, selected from the group of the mono-, sesqui, di- and triesters of sorbitans (= monoanhydrosorbites or 1,5-anhydro-D-sorbitol ) with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ (even, saturated, unsaturated and branched) and optionally a degree of ethoxylation of 10-100. 4. Preparations according to claim 1, containing A) 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, selected from the group PEG -20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate. 5. Preparations according to claim 1, containing A) 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures it. 6. Preparations according to claim 1, A) where those from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms are selected from the group of wool wax alcohols, B) which can also contain one or more sterols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols. 7. Preparations according to claim 1, preferably containing at least 3% liquid lipids selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides, (c) medium-chain ethers Fatty alcohols, (d) non-polar lipids and / or (e) silicone oils or mixtures thereof. 8. A process for the preparation of W / O / W emulsions according to claim 1, that the components the oil phase or the water phase separately combined and heated, and then stirring with low energy input, advantageously with the help of a Gear rim dispersing machine with a speed of up to 6000 rpm, preferably 1500 up to 4800 rpm, are combined.