EP1397107A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions having a silicon oil and talcum powder content - Google Patents

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions having a silicon oil and talcum powder content

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Publication number
EP1397107A2
EP1397107A2 EP02700228A EP02700228A EP1397107A2 EP 1397107 A2 EP1397107 A2 EP 1397107A2 EP 02700228 A EP02700228 A EP 02700228A EP 02700228 A EP02700228 A EP 02700228A EP 1397107 A2 EP1397107 A2 EP 1397107A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
oil
preparations
cosmetic
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP02700228A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Astrid Heptner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1397107A2 publication Critical patent/EP1397107A2/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O emulsions containing low molecular weight silicones.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is the important part for the barrier function.
  • the skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Bar er, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the hom layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricks and mortar model).
  • the homocytes komeocytes
  • the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the feeling of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent and are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
  • the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the opposite principle, the basic character being determined here by the oil.
  • silicone oils have some disadvantages, mainly in terms of formulation
  • silicone oils have some disadvantages, mainly in terms of formulation
  • a multitude of possibilities is known to the person skilled in the art for formulating stable W / O preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments which are spreadable in the range from room temperature to skin temperature, or as lotions and milks which tend to flow in this temperature range.
  • the prior art knows only a few formulations which are so thin that they would be sprayable, for example.
  • Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care in particular contain mixtures of oils or oil-soluble substances and water or water-soluble substances as essential components.
  • Polyols (glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol etc.) are used to increase the skin-moisturizing effect of water-in-oil emulsions. These preparations are particularly sticky with a polyol content of more than 5% and are not acceptable for sensory reasons. After applying the product, there should be little or no residue on the skin.
  • viscosity means the property of a liquid to oppose the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers with resistance (toughness, internal friction).
  • the quotient v ⁇ / p from the dynamic viscosity ⁇ and the density p of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v and is given in the SI unit m 2 / s.
  • speed the speed of an ointment or ointment base or the like means its property of pulling threads of different lengths when tapping; accordingly, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting fabrics.
  • the falling body viscosity is only suitable for the investigation of Newtonian liquids and gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which the dynamic viscosity ⁇ for a ball falling through a liquid flowing around it
  • W / O emulsions with a low viscosity which have a storage stability, as is required for marketable products, can only be formulated with great effort according to the prior art. Accordingly, the range of such mulations extremely low. Nevertheless, such formulations could offer the consumer previously unknown cosmetic services.
  • W / O emulsions with a higher viscosity are quite common preparations. Without using cyclic silicone oils, however, such preparations tend to have a cosmetically undemanding effect and are not particularly appealing to the skin.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the above-described disadvantages of the preparations of the prior art.
  • oil phase contains from 0.5 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more silicone oils.
  • the preparations according to the invention act better than moisturizing preparations, are easier to formulate, better promote smoothing of the skin, are better cared for, serve better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients better sensory properties, such as the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, would have greater stability against decay in oil and water phases and would be better biocompatible than that Preparations of the state of the art.
  • the preparations according to the invention are both sprayable to flowable and can be formulated in a cream-like manner, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.
  • the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from, for example, 20 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate with the composition 3MgO • 4SiO 2 • H 2 O or Mg 3 (Si 4 O ⁇ o) • (OH) 2 or Mg 6 (OH) 4 [Si 8 O 20 ] or Mg 12 [Si 16 O 0 ], which, however, can contain proportions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12% by weight Al 2 O 3 , based on the entire product.
  • Talc is a white, mostly very fine, practically odorless to earthy-smelling powder that feels greasy when rubbed without being fat. It is insoluble in water, cold acids or alkalis. Depending on the country of origin, the chemical purity of the talc (based on the content of anhydrous magnesium silicate) should be 93-98%.
  • Talc is used for the manufacture of pharmaceutical powders, but above all for the manufacture of cosmetic powders that are used for personal hygiene, but is also suitable for the manufacture of tablets as a lubricant or flow agent.
  • the particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should be in the range of 0.5-50 ⁇ m. In general, both talc have proven that not more than 5 microns wt .-% of particles less than 1 and not more than 5 wt .-% of part ⁇ chen contain over 50 microns in size. Preferably the proportion of particles is larger than 40 ⁇ m in diameter (sieve residue), at most 2% by weight.
  • the average particle diameter (D 50) is preferably 5-15 ⁇ m.
  • the content of accompanying substances should not be more than 1.6% by weight of Fe 2 O 3 , 1% by weight of CaO and 1% by weight of unbound water (loss on drying at 1050 ° C.).
  • the content of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate can be up to 60% by weight, calculated as Al 2 O 3 , up to 12% by weight.
  • the shaped WO emulsions contain 0.1-20% by weight of talc, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar Products.
  • silicone oils are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure.
  • silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally obtained by Structural elements are characterized as follows:
  • silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
  • n can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
  • Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil.
  • Other silicone oils for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasilo- xan) for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydi harmonyone can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.
  • these include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
  • the oil phase of the emulsions preferably consists of 0.5 to 12% by weight of silicones of the type listed under point (b), although it is possible to accept up to half without major disadvantages to choose the total weight of the oil components from the group of other oil components.
  • esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyllauryl, 2-ethylhexyl Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
  • the oil components of the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers and / or dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially that Triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut wax, lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfettite, cerium wax fat, cereal wax, cereal wax fat , Paraffin waxes and micro waxes.
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes such as those sold under the tradenames Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16 3S -Fettklaretrigly- cerid.) And Syncrowax AW 1C (C 18 36. - Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g.
  • the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2 -C 5 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 . ⁇ s benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ⁇ 2 _ ⁇ 5 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Ci ⁇ -is-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • W / O emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of the usual W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers.
  • W / O emulsions according to the present invention contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
  • W / O emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
  • W / O emulsions according to the invention which are distinguished by a content of silicone emulsifiers, have very particularly advantageous properties.
  • Such W / O emulsions are therefore particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention.
  • the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • p represents a number from 0 to 200
  • q represents a number from 1 to 40
  • r represents a number Represents number from 1 - 100.
  • surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
  • the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
  • the total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs in effective concentration.
  • the clean distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products refer to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethyl! Hexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention.
  • the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active ingredients e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation
  • the W / O emulsions according to the invention are distinguished by a proportion of electrolytes.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are advantageously selected from the group
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions are also advantageous, e.g. Lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids and their salts and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and its salts.
  • Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts.
  • electrolytes there is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are also advantageously selected from the
  • the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts for example the sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are furthermore advantageously selected from the
  • amino acids are part of the natural moisture factor (the so-called natural moisturizing factor).
  • the addition of amino acids, especially essential amino acids, is to be regarded as advantageous, since moisture can be bound in the skin through hydration processes.
  • Amino acids with a particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological effect are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group (4) the cosmetically and dermatologically relevant .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids and .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular their salts, the cations advantageously being able to be selected from the group consisting of ammonium, - alkylammonium, - alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, - magnesium - , Iron or zinc ions.
  • ß-Hydroxycarboxylic acids which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula
  • salicylic acid has an antibacterial and keratolytic effect and is a component of some cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the following classes of substances:
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids which in turn are selected particularly advantageously from the group of C ⁇ o- 1 8-alkyl carboxylic acids, (a3) ⁇ -hydroxy sugar acids, aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxy fruit acids, (a4) unsubstituted aromatic ⁇ -hydroxy carboxylic acids (e.g. mandelic acid) or (a5) Substituted aromatic ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • the ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids falling under point (a2) are particularly advantageously selected from the group ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, according to the formula
  • n represents a number from 7 to 31.
  • mixtures of such aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular in the form of wool wax acid mixtures, in which the content of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids is 20-30% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy sugar acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of
  • Aldonic acids e.g. Gluconic acid, galactonic acid
  • Aldar acids for example glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also the fruit acid tartaric acid, which also falls under the definition of aldar acid), uronic acids, for example glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, glyceric acid
  • uronic acids for example glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, glyceric acid
  • the aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxy fruit acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid.
  • Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • citric acid is used for buffering cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as a synergist for antioxidants in skin and hair cosmetics.
  • Tartaric acid (dihydroxy succinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • the preferred ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid ( ⁇ -oxopropanoic acid). It is characterized by the following structure:
  • the maximum amount of the electrolytes to be used ultimately depends on their solubility in the aqueous phase. Basically, the teaching of the invention but no maximum quantities as a barrier, since it may even be advantageous, for whatever reason, to incorporate an additional amount of this electrolyte beyond the solubility of an electrolyte, for example as an undissolved solid, into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • batyl alcohol ⁇ -octadecylglyceryl ether
  • selachyl alcohol ⁇ -9-octadecenylglyceryl ether
  • chimyl alcohol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • bisabolol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • antioxidants it is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sutfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • citric acid Lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, Ubiquinone and Ubi- quinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin Rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and ZnO2 and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, eg 4 ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants.
  • All active ingredients common to deodorants or antiperspirants can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite , Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
  • odor maskers such as the common perfume components
  • odor absorbers for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite , Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example
  • Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the Patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE -195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31
  • the amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • the water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character which, in addition to an effective content of the substances used according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, also further organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B.
  • organic thickeners e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate)
  • cellulose, cellulose derivatives preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
  • the preparations according to the invention particularly advantageously contain glycerol.
  • the total amount of glycerol in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously in the range of 0.01-30.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-5%. 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and aikyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous.
  • the cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xdimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, x or methyldimethyl bromide bromide, or xdimethyl bromide bromide , Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives
  • cationic polymers for example Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, or Stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG).
  • cationic polymers for example Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)
  • modified magnesium aluminum silicates for example quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, or Stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency.
  • Oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, such as, for. B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil®, which are available from Degussa AG.
  • Aerosil® grades are Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202 , Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976.
  • metal soaps ie the salts of higher fatty acids with the exception of the alkali salts
  • oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as, for example, aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants e.g. cocoamidopropylbetaine
  • moisturizem e.g. betaine
  • Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acyiamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropyl aminodimide, naphthamino aminopropyl amide, amine, for example sodium aminopropyl aminopropyl amide, naphtha aminopropyl aminophenyl amide,
  • the amount of surface-active or surface-active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also contain active substances (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of B- and D series, very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin B 12, the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially ⁇ -linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.
  • the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.
  • the amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations which (a) represent water-in-oil emulsions, and (b) have a talcum powder content, (c) the oil phase amounting to between 20 and 55 % of the total weight of the preparation, and (d) said oil phase containing between 0.5 and 12 wt. %, in relation to the total weight of the preparation, of at least one silicon oil.

Description

Beschreibung description
Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Siliconölen und TalkumCosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O emulsions containing silicone oils and talc
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen in Form von W/O-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an niedermolekularen Siliconen.The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O emulsions containing low molecular weight silicones.
Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letziich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe. Bewirkt wird diese Barrierefunktion durch die Epidermis, welche als äußerste Schicht die eigentliche Schutzhülle gegenüber der Umwelt bildet. Mit etwa einem Zehntel der Gesamtdicke ist sie gleichzeitig die dünnste Schicht der Haut.The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
Die Epidermis ist ein stratifiziertes Gewebe, in dem die äußere Schicht, die Homschicht (Stratum corneum), den für die Barrierefunktion bedeutenden Teil darstellt. Das heute in der Fachwelt anerkannte Hautmodell von Elias (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Bar er, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) beschreibt die Homschicht als Zwei-Komponenten-System, ähnlich einer Ziegelsteinmauer (Ziegelstein-Mörtel-Modell). In diesem Modell entsprechen die Homzellen (Komeozyten) den Ziegelsteinen, die komplex zusammengesetzte Lipidmembran in den Interzellularräumen entspricht dem Mörtel. Dieses System stellt im wesentlichen eine physikalische Barriere gegen hydrophile Substanzen dar, kann aber aufgrund seiner engen und mehrschichtigen Struktur gleichermaßen auch von lipophilen Substanzen nur schwer passiert werden. Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft in einer besonderen Ausführuπgsform kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen mit vermindertem Klebrigkeitsgefühl, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung sowie die Verwendung von Wirkstoffen zur Herabminderung des Kleb- rigkeitsgefühles kosmetischer Zubereitungen.The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is the important part for the barrier function. The skin model of Elias (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Bar er, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is recognized by experts today, describes the hom layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricks and mortar model). In this model, the homocytes (komeocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure it is equally difficult for lipophilic substances to pass through. In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the feeling of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.
Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z.B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z.B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
Wird diese Funktion gestört, kann es zu verstärkter Resorption toxischer oder allergener Stoffe oder zum Befall von Mikroorganismen und als Folge zu toxischen oder allergischen Hautreaktionen kommen.If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.
Ziel der Hautpflege ist es ferner, den durch tägliche Waschen verursachten Fett- und Wasserveriust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vor Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern.The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
Medizinische Zusammensetzungen enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
Häufige Erscheinungsformen kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen sind feindisperse Mehrphasensysteme, in welchen eine oder mehrere Fett- bzw. Ölphasen neben einer bzw. mehreren Wasserphasen vorliegen. Von diesen Systemen sind wiederum die eigentlichen Emulsionen die am weitesten verbreiteten.Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present in addition to one or more water phases. Of these systems, the actual emulsions are the most widespread.
Weiterhin war es eine Aufgabe der Erfindung, kosmetische Grundlagen für kosmetische Zubereitungen zu entwickeln, die sich durch gute Hautverträglichkeit auszeichnen. Ferner war eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, Produkte mit einer möglichst breiten Anwendungsvielfalt zur Verfügung zu stellen. Beispielsweise sollten Grundlagen für Zubereitungsformen wie Reinigungsemulsionen, Gesichts- und Körperpflegezubereitungen, aber auch ausgesprochen medizinisch-pharmazeutische Darreichungsformen geschaffen werden, zum Beispiel Zubereitungen gegen Akne und andere Hauterscheinungen.Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic preparations which are notable for good skin tolerance. It was also an object of the present invention to provide products with the widest possible range of applications. For example, the basis for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms.
Die Formulierung stabiler Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen mit einer überdurchschnittlichen Hautpflegeleistung (Hautbefeuchtung sowie Hautglättung) in Kombination mit sehr guten sensorischen Eigenschaften gestaltet sich derzeit als nach wie vor sehr schwierig. Dies ist nicht zuletzt darin begründet, daß der Zusatz hautpflegewirksamer Additive - wie z.B. Moisturizer, bestimmte Lipide oder Filmbildner - zu instabilen Emulsionen und/oder einem stumpfen bzw. klebrigen oder auch schmierigen Hautgefühl beim Verteilen des Produktes auf der Haut führt, so daß die Emulsionen dann zwar möglicherweise wirksam, aber gleichzeitig sensorisch unakzeptabel und/oder instabil sind.The formulation of stable water-in-oil emulsions with above-average skin care performance (skin moisturizing and smoothing) in combination with very good sensory properties is currently still very difficult. This is not least due to the fact that the addition of skin care additives - such as Moisturizers, certain lipids or film formers - lead to unstable emulsions and / or a dull or sticky or even greasy feeling on the skin when the product is distributed on the skin, so that the emulsions may then be effective, but at the same time are sensorially unacceptable and / or unstable.
Unter Emulsionen versteht man im allgemeinen heterogene Systeme, die aus zwei nicht oder nur begrenzt miteinander mischbaren Flüssigkeiten bestehen, die üblicherweise als Phasen bezeichnet werden. In einer Emulsion ist eine der beiden Flüssigkeiten in Form feinster Tröpfchen in der anderen Flüssigkeit dispergiert.Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent and are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
Sind die beiden Flüssigkeiten Wasser und Öl und liegen Öltröpfchen fein verteilt in Wasser vor, so handelt es sich um eine ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion, z. B. Milch). Der Grundcharakter einer O/W-Emulsion ist durch das Wasser geprägt. Bei einer Was- ser-in-ÖI-Emulsion (W/O-Emulsion, z. B. Butter) handelt es sich um das umgekehrte Prinzip, wobei der Grundcharakter hier durch das Öi bestimmt wird.If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the opposite principle, the basic character being determined here by the oil.
Es hat sich in den Vergangenheit durchaus bewährt, zumindest Teile einer kosmetisch verwendeten Olphase aus der Gruppe der cyclischen und/oder linearen Silicone zu wählen, welche im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung auch als „Siliconöle" bezeichnet werden. Silicone haben jedoch einige Nachteile, hauptsächlich formulierungstechnischer Natur. Gleichwohl galten sie bisher als unverzichtbar, wollte man kosmetische Zubereitungen auf der Grundlage von Siliconölen formulieren. Natürlich ist dem Fachmann eine Vielzahl von Möglichkeiten bekannt, stabile W/O- Zubereitungen zur kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Anwendung zu formulieren, beispielsweise in Form von Cremes und Salben, die im Bereich von Raum- bis Hauttemperatur streichfähig sind, oder als Lotionen und Milche, die in diesem Temperaturbereich eher fließfähig sind. Der Stand der Technik kennt allerdings nur wenige Formulierungen, die so dünnflüssig sind, daß sie beispielsweise sprühbar wären.In the past, it has proven itself to be useful to select at least parts of a cosmetically used oil phase from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as "silicone oils" in the context of the present disclosure. However, silicones have some disadvantages, mainly in terms of formulation However, until now they were considered indispensable if one wanted to formulate cosmetic preparations based on silicone oils. Of course, a multitude of possibilities is known to the person skilled in the art for formulating stable W / O preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example in the form of creams and ointments which are spreadable in the range from room temperature to skin temperature, or as lotions and milks which tend to flow in this temperature range. However, the prior art knows only a few formulations which are so thin that they would be sprayable, for example.
Insbesondere Zubereitungen zur kosmetischen oder therapeutischen Hautpflege enthalten als wesentliche Bestandteile Abmischungen aus Ölen bzw. öllöslichen Substanzen und Wasser bzw. wasserlöslichen Substanzen. Bestimmte an sich aus kosmetischer Sicht sehr vorteilhafte Bestandteile der Wasserphase, z.B. Glycerin, aber auch der Olphase, z.B.Tocopherylacetat wirken sich in höheren Konzentrationen negativ auf die sensorischen Eigenschaften der Zubereitungen aus. Oft äußert sich dies in einem gesteigerten Klebrigkeitsgefühl oder auch Schmierigkeitsgefühl bei der Anwendung entsprechender Zubereitungen, welche dann im Einzelfalle nicht vermarktungsfähig sein können, da sie vom Verbraucher nicht akzeptiert bzw. negativ beurteilt werden.Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care in particular contain mixtures of oils or oil-soluble substances and water or water-soluble substances as essential components. Certain components of the water phase which are very advantageous from a cosmetic point of view, e.g. Glycerin, but also the oil phase, e.g. tocopheryl acetate, have a negative effect on the sensory properties of the preparations in higher concentrations. This often manifests itself in an increased feeling of stickiness or even a feeling of greasiness when using corresponding preparations, which in individual cases may not be marketable because they are not accepted by consumers or judged negatively.
Es ist zwar bekannt, durch Hinzufügen bestimmter Substanzen, beispielsweise einiger ausgewählter Puderrohstoffe, insbesondere Talkum, dieses Klebrigkeitsgefühl oder auch Schmierigkeitsgefühl zu reduzieren. Davon abgesehen, daß dieses nur selten vollständig gelingt, wird durch einen solchen Zusatz auch die Viskosität des betreffenden Produktes verändert und die Stabilität verringert.It is known to reduce this feeling of stickiness or also of feeling of lubrication by adding certain substances, for example some selected powder raw materials, in particular talc. Apart from the fact that this is rarely completely successful, such an addition also changes the viscosity of the product in question and reduces the stability.
Um die hautbefeuchtende Wirkung von Wasser-in-ÖI Emulsionen zu steigern, werden Polyole (Glycerin, Propylenglykol, Butylenglykol, Sorbitol etc.) eingesetzt. Diese Zubereitungen sind besonders mit einem Polyolgehalt von über 5% überaus klebrig und aus sensorischen Gründen nicht akzeptabel. Nach dem Produktauftrag soll auf der Haut kein oder nur wenig Rückstand verbleiben.Polyols (glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol etc.) are used to increase the skin-moisturizing effect of water-in-oil emulsions. These preparations are particularly sticky with a polyol content of more than 5% and are not acceptable for sensory reasons. After applying the product, there should be little or no residue on the skin.
Unter dem Begriff „Viskosität" versteht man die Eigenschaft einer Flüssigkeit, der gegenseitigen laminaren Verschiebung zweier benachbarter Schichten einen Widerstand (Zähigkeit, innere Reibung) entgegenzusetzen. Man definiert heute diese sogenannte dynamische Viskosität nach η=τ/D als das Verhältnis der Schubspannung zum Geschwindigkeitsgradienten senkrecht zur Strömungsrichtung. Für newtonsche Flüssig- keiten ist η bei gegebener Temperatur eine Stoffkonstante mit der Sl-Einheit Pascalsekunde (Pa s).The term "viscosity" means the property of a liquid to oppose the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers with resistance (toughness, internal friction). Today, this so-called dynamic viscosity according to η = τ / D is defined as the ratio of the shear stress to the velocity gradient perpendicular to the direction of flow. For Newtonian liquid η at a given temperature is a substance constant with the Sl unit Pascal second (Pa s).
Der Quotient v=η/p aus der dynamischen Viskosität η und der Dichte p der Flüssigkeit wird als kinematische Viskosität v bezeichnet und in der Sl-Einheit m2/s angegeben.The quotient v = η / p from the dynamic viscosity η and the density p of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v and is given in the SI unit m 2 / s.
Als Fluidität (φ) bezeichnet man den Kehrwert der Viskosität (φ=1/η). Bei Salben und dergleichen wird der Gebrauchswert unter anderem mitbestimmt von der sogenannten Zügigkeit. Unter der Zügigkeit einer Salbe oder Salbengrundlage oder dergleichen versteht man deren Eigenschaft, beim Abstechen verschieden lange Fäden zu ziehen; dementsprechend unterscheidet man kurz- und langzügige Stoffe.Fluidity (φ) is the reciprocal of viscosity (φ = 1 / η). In the case of ointments and the like, the use value is determined, among other things, by the so-called speed. The speed of an ointment or ointment base or the like means its property of pulling threads of different lengths when tapping; accordingly, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting fabrics.
Während die graphische Darstellung des Fließverhaltens Newtonscher Flüssigkeiten bei gegebener Temperatur eine Gerade ergibt, zeigen sich bei den sogenannten nichtnew- tonschen Flüssigkeiten in Abhängigkeit vom jeweiligen Geschwindigkeitsgefälle D (Schergeschwindigkeit γ ) bzw. der Schubspannung τ oft erhebliche Abweichungen. In diesen Fällen läßt sich die sogenannte scheinbare Viskosität bestimmen, die zwar nicht der Newtonschen Gleichung gehorcht, aus der sich jedoch durch graphische Verfahren die wahren Viskositätswerte ermitteln lassen.While the graphical representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian fluids results in a straight line at a given temperature, the so-called non-Newtonian fluids often show considerable deviations depending on the respective velocity gradient D (shear rate γ) or the shear stress τ. In these cases the so-called apparent viscosity can be determined, which does not obey Newton's equation, but from which the true viscosity values can be determined by graphic methods.
Die Fallkörperviskosi etrie ist lediglich zur Untersuchung newtonscher Flüssigkeiten sowie von Gasen geeignet. Sie basiert auf dem Stokes-Gesetz, nach dem für das Fallen einer Kugel durch eine sie umströmende Flüssigkeit die dynamische Viskosität η ausThe falling body viscosity is only suitable for the investigation of Newtonian liquids and gases. It is based on the Stokes law, according to which the dynamic viscosity η for a ball falling through a liquid flowing around it
2 r2( - pF,)-g η 9-v bestimmbar ist, wobei r = Radius der Kugel, v = Fallgeschwindigkeit, rκ = Dichte der Kugel, rR = Dichte der2 r 2 ( - p F ,) - g η 9-v can be determined, where r = radius of the sphere, v = falling speed, r κ = density of the sphere, r R = density of the
Flüssigkeit und g = Fallbeschleunigung.Liquid and g = gravitational acceleration.
W/O-Emulsionen mit einer geringen Viskosität, die eine Lagerstabilität aufweisen, wie sie für marktgängige Produkte gefordert wird, sind nach dem Stand der Technik nur sehr aufwendig zu formulieren. Dementsprechend ist das Angebot an derartigen For- mulierungen äußerst gering. Gleichwohl könnten derartige Formulierungen dem Verbraucher bisher nicht gekannte kosmetische Leistungen bieten.W / O emulsions with a low viscosity, which have a storage stability, as is required for marketable products, can only be formulated with great effort according to the prior art. Accordingly, the range of such mulations extremely low. Nevertheless, such formulations could offer the consumer previously unknown cosmetic services.
W/O-Emulsionen mit einer höheren Viskosität sind durchaus gängige Zubereitungen. Unter Verzicht auf cyclische Silikonöle neigen solche Zubereitungen allerdings dazu, kosmetisch anspruchslos zu wirken und sich durch wenig ansprechendes Hautgefühl auszuzeichnen.W / O emulsions with a higher viscosity are quite common preparations. Without using cyclic silicone oils, however, such preparations tend to have a cosmetically undemanding effect and are not particularly appealing to the skin.
Eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es, Grundlagen für Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche es einesteils erlauben, höherviskose Zubereitungen zu erstellen (welche man landläufig als Cremes bezeichnen würde), aber auch andererseits eine gute Grundlage für Zubereitungen darstellen, die eine geringe oder gar sehr geringe Viskosität aufweisen (also beispielsweise Formulierungen, welche man landläufig als Lotionen bezeichnen würde), ohne aber von einigen der Nachteile des Standes der Technik behaftet zu sein.It was an object of the present invention to provide the basis for preparations which, on the one hand, make it possible to prepare preparations of higher viscosity (which one would commonly call creams), but on the other hand also provide a good basis for preparations which have a low or even zero have a very low viscosity (for example, formulations which would commonly be called lotions), but without some of the disadvantages of the prior art.
Die vorbeschreibenen Nachteile der Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen war also Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung.The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the above-described disadvantages of the preparations of the prior art.
Erstaunlicherweise werden diese Aufgaben gelöst durch kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, welcheSurprisingly, these tasks are solved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which
(a) Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen darstellen, welche(a) represent water-in-oil emulsions which
(b) einen Gehalt an Talkum aufweisen(b) have a talc content
(c) wobei die Olphase 20 bis 55 % des Gesamtgewichtes der Zubereitung ausmacht und(c) the oil phase making up 20 to 55% of the total weight of the preparation and
(d) wobei die Olphase einen Gehalt von 0,5 bis 12 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an einem oder mehreren Siliconölen, enthält.(d) wherein the oil phase contains from 0.5 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more silicone oils.
Es war für den Fachmann daher nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, daß die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken, einfacher zu formulieren sein, besser die Hautglättung fördern, sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeichen, besser als Vehikel für kosmetische und medizinisch-dermatologische Wirkstoffe dienen bessere sensorische Eigenschaften, wie beispielsweise die Verteilbarkeit auf der Haut oder das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, aufweisen würden höhere Stabilität gegenüber Zerfall in Öl- und Wasserphasen aufweisen und sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention act better than moisturizing preparations, are easier to formulate, better promote smoothing of the skin, are better cared for, serve better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients better sensory properties, such as the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, would have greater stability against decay in oil and water phases and would be better biocompatible than that Preparations of the state of the art.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind sowohl sprühbar bis fließfähig als auch cremeartig formulierbar, besitzen sehr gute kosmetische Eigenschaften, insbesondere was die Klebrigkeit betrifft, und weisen eine sehr gute Hautverträglichkeit sowie Hautpflegeleistung auf.The preparations according to the invention are both sprayable to flowable and can be formulated in a cream-like manner, have very good cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es möglich und vorteilhaft, den Anteil der Olphase der erfinduπgs- gemäßen Zubereitungen im Bereich von beispielsweise 20 bis 35 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, frei zu wählen.According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from, for example, 20 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Talkum ist ein hydratisiertes Magnesiumsilikat der Zusammensetzung 3MgO 4SiO2 H2O bzw. Mg3(Si4Oιo) (OH)2 bzw. Mg6(OH)4[Si8O20] bzw. Mg12[Si16O 0], das jedoch Anteile an hydratisiertem Magnesiumalminiumsilikat von bis zu 12 Gew.-% AI2O3, bezogen auf das gesamte Produkt, enthalten kann. Talkum ist ein weißes, meist sehr feines, praktisch geruchloses bis etwas erdig riechendes Pulver, das sich beim Reiben fettig anfühlt, ohne fetthaltig zu sein. Es ist unlöslich in Wasser, kalten Säuren oder Alkalien. Je nach Ursprungsland soll die chemische Reinheit des Talkums (bezogen auf den Gehalt an wasserfreiem Magnesiumsilikat) 93-98 % betragen. Talkum wird zur Herstellung von pharmazeutischen, vor allem aber zur Herstellung kosmetischer Puder, die der Körperpflege dienen, verwendet, ist aber auch zur Tablettenherstellung als Schmier- bzw. Fließmittel geeignet.Talc is a hydrated magnesium silicate with the composition 3MgO 4SiO 2 H 2 O or Mg 3 (Si 4 Oιo) (OH) 2 or Mg 6 (OH) 4 [Si 8 O 20 ] or Mg 12 [Si 16 O 0 ], which, however, can contain proportions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12% by weight Al 2 O 3 , based on the entire product. Talc is a white, mostly very fine, practically odorless to earthy-smelling powder that feels greasy when rubbed without being fat. It is insoluble in water, cold acids or alkalis. Depending on the country of origin, the chemical purity of the talc (based on the content of anhydrous magnesium silicate) should be 93-98%. Talc is used for the manufacture of pharmaceutical powders, but above all for the manufacture of cosmetic powders that are used for personal hygiene, but is also suitable for the manufacture of tablets as a lubricant or flow agent.
Der Teilchendurchmesser (equivalent spherical diameter) des Talkums sollte im Bereich von 0,5-50 μm liegen. Im allgemeinen haben sich solche Talkumqualitäten bewährt, die nicht mehr als 5 Gew.-% an Teilchen unter 1 μm und nicht mehr als 5 Gew.-% an Teil¬ chen über 50 μm Größe enthalten. Vorzugsweise ist der Anteil an Teilchen, die größer als 40 μm im Durchmesser sind (Siebrückstand), höchstens 2 Gew.-%. Der mittlere Teilchendurchmesser (D 50) liegt bevorzugt bei 5 - 15 μm.The particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should be in the range of 0.5-50 μm. In general, both talc have proven that not more than 5 microns wt .-% of particles less than 1 and not more than 5 wt .-% of part ¬ chen contain over 50 microns in size. Preferably the proportion of particles is larger than 40 μm in diameter (sieve residue), at most 2% by weight. The average particle diameter (D 50) is preferably 5-15 μm.
Der Gehalt an Begleitstoffen sollte nicht mehr als 1 ,6 Gew.-% Fe2O3, 1 Gew.-% CaO und 1 Gew.-% an ungebundenem Wasser (Trockenverlust bei 1050 °C) ausmachen. Der Gehalt an hydratisiertem Magnesiumaluminiumsilikat kann bis zu 60 Gew.-%, berechnet als AI2O3, bis zu 12 Gew.-% liegen.The content of accompanying substances should not be more than 1.6% by weight of Fe 2 O 3 , 1% by weight of CaO and 1% by weight of unbound water (loss on drying at 1050 ° C.). The content of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate can be up to 60% by weight, calculated as Al 2 O 3 , up to 12% by weight.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft enthalten die geformten WO-Emulsionen 0,1 - 20 Gew.-% Talkum, bevorzugt 0,5 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Advantageously according to the invention, the shaped WO emulsions contain 0.1-20% by weight of talc, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Als Grundbestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können verwendet werden:The following can be used as basic components of the preparations according to the invention:
Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen wäßrige ethanolische Lösungen natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle;Water or aqueous solutions aqueous ethanolic solutions natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propy- lenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykol o- noethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar Products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet.Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular.
Es wird bevorzugt, die Olphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen aus der Gruppe der cyclischen und/oder linearen Silicone zu wählen, welche im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung auch als „Siliconöle" bezeichnet werden. Solche Silicone oder Siliconöle können als Monomere vorliegen, welche in der Regel durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert sind, wie folgt: It is preferred to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention from the group of the cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally obtained by Structural elements are characterized as follows:
Als erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzenden linearen Silicone mit mehreren Siloxyl- einheiten werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert wie folgt:Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Aryl- resten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R-i - R dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), m kann dabei Werte von 2 - 200.000 annehmen. wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft einzusetzende cyclische Silicone werden im allgemeinen durch Strukturelemente charakterisiert, wie folgtCyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows
wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Aryl- resten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R^ - R4 dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist), n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyc- lus vorhanden sein können. wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ^ - R 4 (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4) , n can assume values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.
Vorteilhaft wird Phenyltrimethicon als Siliconöl gewählt. Auch andere Silikonöle, beispielsweise Dimethicon, Phenyldimethicon, Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasilo- xan) beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenyl- siloxan), Cetyldimethicon, Behenoxydi ethicon sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasilo- xan) for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydi ethicone can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, sowie solche aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.
Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft, Silikonöle ähnlicher Konstitution wie der vorstehend bezeichneten Verbindungen zu wählen, deren organische Seitenketten derivatisiert, beispielsweise polyethoxyliert und/oder polypropoxyliert sind. Dazu zählen beispielsweise Polysiloxan-polyalkyl-polyether-copolymere wie das Cetyl-Dimethicon-Copolyol, das (Ce- tyl-Dimethicon-Copolyol (und) Polyglyceryl-4-lsostearat (und) Hexyllaurat)However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)
Die Olphase der Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung besteht erfindungsgemäß vorzugsweise zu 0,5 bis 12 Gew.-% aus Siliconen der unter Punkt (b) aufgeführten Art, wobei es allerdings möglich ist, ohne große Nachteile in kauf zu nehmen, bis zur Hälfte des Gesamtgewichtes der Ölkomponenten aus der Gruppe anderer Öikomponen- ten zu wählen. Diese können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancar- bonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C- Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Ket- teniänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropylole- at, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononyl- isononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldode- cylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl.According to the invention, the oil phase of the emulsions preferably consists of 0.5 to 12% by weight of silicones of the type listed under point (b), although it is possible to accept up to half without major disadvantages to choose the total weight of the oil components from the group of other oil components. These can then advantageously be selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyllauryl, 2-ethylhexyl Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
Ferner können die Ölkomponenten der Olphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Dial- kylether und/oder Dialkylcarbonate, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil components of the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers and / or dialkyl carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially that Triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten können aus der Gruppe der pflanzlichen Wachse, tierischen Wachse, Mineralwachse und petrochemischen Wachse gewählt werden. Erfindungsgemäß günstig sind beispielsweise Candelillawachs, Camaubawachs, Japanwachs, Espartograswachs, Korkwachs, Guarumawachs, Reiskeimölwachs, Zuckerrohrwachs, Beerenwachs, Ouricurywachs, Montanwachs, Jojobawachs, Shea Butter, Bienenwachs, Schellackwachs, Walrat, Lanolin (Woilwachs), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Erdwachs), Paraffinwachse und Mikro- wachse.Fat and / or wax components to be used advantageously according to the invention can be selected from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut wax, lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfettite, cerium wax fat, cereal wax, cereal wax fat , Paraffin waxes and micro waxes.
Weitere vorteilhafte Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten sind chemisch modifzierte Wachse und synthetische Wachse, wie beispielsweise die unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Syncrowax HRC (Glyceryltribehenat), Syncrowax HGLC (C16.3S -Fettsäuretrigly- cerid) und Syncrowax AW 1C (C18.36 -Fettsäure) bei der CRODA GmbH erhältlichen sowie Montanesterwachse, Sasolwachse, hydrierte Jojobawachse, synthetische oder modifizierte Bienenwachse (z. B. Dimethicon Copolyol Bienenwachs und/oder C30.50 -Alkyl Bienenwachs), Polyalkylenwachse, Polyethylenglykolwacl.se, aber auch chemisch modifzierte Fette, wie z. B. hydrierte Pflanzenöle (beispielsweise hydriertes Ricinusöl und/oder hydrierte Cocosfettglyceride), Triglyceride, wie beispielsweise Trihydro- xystearin, Fettsäuren, Fettsäureester und Glykolester, wie beispielsweise C20.40-Alkyl- stearat, C20-4o-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat und/oder Glykolmontanat. Weiter vorteilhaft sind auch bestimmte Organosiiiciumverbindungen, die ähnliche physikalische Eigenschaften aufweisen wie die genannten Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten, wie beispielsweise Stearoxytrimethylsilan.Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes such as those sold under the tradenames Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C 16 3S -Fettsäuretrigly- cerid.) And Syncrowax AW 1C (C 18 36. - Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C30.50-alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C 20 . 40 -alkyl stearate, C 20 - 4 o-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also particularly advantageous are certain organosiiicium compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.
Erfindungsgemäß können die Fett- und/oder Wachskomponenten sowohl einzeln als auch im Gemisch vorliegen. Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Olphase einzusetzen.According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components can be present both individually and in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Olphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldode- canol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, Cι25-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 2 -C 5 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12.ιs-Alkybenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, Mischungen aus Cι25-Alkybenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus Ci-is-Alkybenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 .ιs benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of Cι 25 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Ci Σ -is-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Cycloparaffin, Squalan, Squalen, hydriertes Polyisobuten bzw. Polydecen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Erfindungsgemäße W/O-Emulsionen können vorteilhaft mit Hilfe der üblichen W/O- Emulgatoren, gewünschtenfalls unter Zuhilfenahme von O/W-Emulgatoren bzw. weiteren Coemulgatoren hergestellt werden.W / O emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of the usual W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of O / W emulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers.
W/O-Emulsionen entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, insbesondere vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der folgenden Substanzen, die in der Regel als W/O-Emulgatoren wirken:W / O emulsions according to the present invention contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
Sorbitanstearat, Sorbitanoleat,, Lecithin, Glyceryllanolat, Lanolin, mikrokristallines Wachs (Cera microcristallina) im Gemisch mit Paraffinöl (Paraffinum liquidum), Ozokerit, hydriertem Ricinusöl, Glycerylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Oleat, Wollwachssäurege- mische, Wollwachsalkoholgemische, Pentaerythrithylisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3 Di- isostearat, Sorbitan Oleat im Gemisch mit hydriertem Ricinusöl, Bienenwachs (Cera al- ba) und Stearinsäure, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat im Gemisch mit Isopropylhy- droxycetylether, Methylglucosedioleat, Methylglucosedioleat im Gemisch mit Hydroxy- stearat und Bienenwachs, Mineralöl im Gemisch mit Petrolatum und Ozokerit und Glyce- ryloleat und Lanolinalkohol, Petrolatum im Gemisch mit Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl und Glycerylisostearat und Polyglyceryl-3-oleat, PEG-7-hydriertes Ricinusöl, Sor- bitanoleat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Ozokerit und hydriertem Ricinusöl, Sorbitanisostearat im Gemisch mit PEG-2-hydriertem Ricinusöl, Polyglyceryl-4- isostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat im Gemisch mit Cetyldimethiconcopolyol und Hexyl- laurat, Laurylmethiconcopolyol, Cetyldimethiconcopolyol, Acrylat/ Cι0.3o-Alkylacrylat- Crosspolymer, Sorbitanisostearat, Poloxamer 101 , Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy- stearat, Diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearat, Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearat, Polyglyceryl-3- dioleat.Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, poly wax alcohol alcoholate, wool wax alcohol alcoholate Diisostearate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetylphosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methylglucose dioleate, methylglucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and ozonite petrol and mineral oil in a mixture glycerol ryloleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, mixed sorbitan isostearate PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone copolyol, acrylate / Cι 0 . 3 -alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy-stearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-di-diisostearate Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.
W/O-Emulsionen entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten gewünschtenfalls einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, insbesondere vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der folgenden Substanzen, die in der Regel als O/W-Emulgatoren wirken:W / O emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 im Gemisch mit Stearylalcohol, Cetylstearylalcohol im Gemisch mit PEG-40-Ricinusöl und Natrium- cetylstearylsulfat, Triceteareth-4 Phosphat, Glycerylstearat, Natriumcetylstearylsulfat, Lecithin Trilaureth-4 Phosphat, Laureth-4 Phosphat, Stearinsäure, Propylenglycolstearat SE, PEG-25-hydriertes Ricinusöl, PEG-54-hydriertes Ricinusöl, PEG-6 Caprylsäure/Ca- prinsäureglyceride, Glyceryloleat im Gemisch mit Propylenglycol, PEG-9-Stearat, Ce- teth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbat 60, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit PEG-100 Stearat, Gly- cerylmyristat, Glyceryllaurat, PEG-40-Sorbitanperoleat, Laureth-4, Ceteareth-3, Iso- stearylglycerylether, Cetylstearylalkohol im Gemisch mit Natrium Cetylstearylsulfat, Lau- reth-23, Steareth-2, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit PEG-30 Stearat, PEG-40-Stearat, Glycol Distearat, PEG-22-Dodecy) Glycol Copoly er, Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-Stearat, Ceteareth-20, Methylglucosesesquistearat, Steareth-10, PEG-20-Stearat, Steareth-2 im Gemisch mit PEG-8 Distearat, Steareth-21 , Steareth-20, lsosteareth-20, PEG-45/ Dode- cylglycol-Copolymer, Methoxy-PEG-22/Dodecylglycol-Copolymer, PEG-40-Sorbitanper- oleat, PEG-40-Sorbitanperisostearat, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, PEG-8-Bienenwachs, Polyglyceryl-2-laurat, Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Stearamidopro- pyl-PG-dimoniumchloridphosphat, Glycerylstearat SE, Ceteth-20, Triethylcitrat, PEG-20- Methylglucosesesquistearat, Ceteareth-12, Glycerylstearatcitrat, Cetylphosphat, Sor- bitansesquioleat, Triceteareth-4-Phosphat, Trilaureth-4-Phosphat, Polyglycerylmethyl- glucosedistearat, Kaliumcetylphosphat, lsosteareth-10, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearat, Ceteth-10, Oleth-20, lsoceteth-20, Glycerylstearat im Gemisch mit Ceteareth-20, Cetea- reth-12, Cetylstearylalcohol und Cetylpalmitat, Cetylstearylalcohol im Gemisch mit PEG- 20 Stearat, PEG-30-Stearat, PEG-40-Stearat, PEG-100-Stearat.Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearylalcohol in a mixture with PEG-40-castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetylethearate, 4-lecarboxylate, lecarbylate lecithate, lecarbate, lecyl stearate sulfate -4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, PEG-9 stearate, ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, Laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetyl stearyl, learyl stearyl -23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22-dodecy) glycol copoly er, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate , Steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in admixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG -40-sorbitan per-oleate, PEG-40-sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, PEG-8-beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamido propyl stearate, SE-dimon chloride, Ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, sor- bitansesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethylglucose distearate, potassium cetylphosphate, isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isocetethearate-20, glycerylstearate, glycerylstearate Ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.
Es war insbesondere überraschend, daß erfindungsgemäße kosmetische oder dermatologische W/O-Emulsionen, welche sich durch einen Gehalt an Siliconemulgatoren auszeichnen, ganz besonders vorteilhafte Eigenschaften aufweisen. Derlei W/O- Emulsionen stellen demzufolge besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung dar.It was particularly surprising that cosmetic or dermatological W / O emulsions according to the invention, which are distinguished by a content of silicone emulsifiers, have very particularly advantageous properties. Such W / O emulsions are therefore particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Erfindungsgemäß können die Siliconemulgatoren vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe grenzflächenaktive Substanzen aus der Gruppe der Alkylmethiconcopolyole und/oder Alkyl-Di- methiconcopolyole gewählt werden, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen, welche gekennzeichnet sind durch die folgende chemische Struktur:According to the invention, the silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:
CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3 I I I I I B*C— SI-O— Si— -o-si — -O-Si — -O — Si— CH3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 IIIIIB * C - SI-O - Si - -o-si - -O-Si - -O - Si - CH 3
I II I
CH, CH- Y CH3 CH, CH- Y CH 3
CH,CH,
C2H4— O— C3H60— XC 2 H 4 - O - C 3 H 6 0 - X
bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1 - 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0 - 200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 - 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1 - 100 darstellt.in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number Represents number from 1 - 100.
Ein Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen ist das Cetyl Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft Th. Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 90 verkauft wird. Ein weiteres Beispiel für besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen ist das Cyclomethicon Dimethiconcopolyol, welches von der Gesellschaft Th. Goldschmidt AG unter der Warenbezeichnung ABIL® EM 97 verkauft wird.An example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90. Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th. Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.
Weiterhin hat sich als ganz besonders vorteilhaft der Emulgator Laurylmethiconcopolyol herausgestellt, welcher unter der Warenbezeichnung Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid von der Gesellschaft Dow Corning Ltd. erhältlich ist.Furthermore, the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol, which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.
Die Gesamtmenge an erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Siliconemulgatoren in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 5,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of silicone emulsifiers used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, z.B. in Form einer Hautschutzcreme, einer Hautlotion, einer kosmetischen Milch, beispielsweise in Form einer Sonnenschutzcreme oder einer Sonnenschutzmilch, sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, wie sie üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet werden.Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sun protection cream or a sun protection milk, are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, daß anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insektenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratolytisch wirksame Substanzen usw.It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.
Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen.Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medi- zinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products refer to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
Entsprechend können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, je nach ihrem Aufbau, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden.Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.
Es ist ebenfalls von Vorteil, von den erfindungsgemäßen Eigenschaften in Form von dekorativen Kosmetika (Make-Up-Formulierύngen) Gebrauch zu machen.It is also advantageous to make use of the properties according to the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations).
Günstig sind auch solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorzugsweise enthalten diese neben dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff zusätzlich mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active ingredient used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindungen, solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden beispielsweise in Tagescremes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet.However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen Substanzen enthalten, die UV- Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 6 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die UVB-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Als öllösliche Substanzen sind z.B. zu nennen:The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethy!hexyl)ester, 4-Me- thoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethyl! Hexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure-Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid
(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;(4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-
Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe- non;Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2- ethylhexyl)ester;Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine
Als wasserlösliche Substanzen sind vorteilhaft:The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:
2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z.B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or
Triethanolammonium-Salze,Triethanolammonium salts,
Suifonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy- benzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;Suifonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;
Suifonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.Suifonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die erfindungsgemäß Verwendung finden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, in erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen UVA-Filter einzusetzen, die üblicherweise in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei solchen Filtersubstanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)- propan-1,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1,3-dion. Auch Zubereitungen, die diese Kombinationen enthalten, sind Gegenstand der Erfindung. Es können die gleichen Mengen an UVA-Filtersubstanzen verwendet werden, welche für UVB- Filtersubstanzen genannt wurden. Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch anorganische Pigmente enthalten, die üblicherweise in der Kosmetik zum Schütze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen verwendet werden. Dabei handelt es sich um Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Zirkoniums, Siliciums, Mangans, Aluminiums, Cers und Mischungen davon, sowie Abwandlungen, bei denen die Oxide die aktiven Agentien sind. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Titandioxid. Es können die für die vorstehenden Kombinationen genannten Mengen verwendet werden.It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Antioxidationsmittel, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Es ist vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen W/O-Emulsionen sich durch einen Anteil an Elektrolyten auszeichnen. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft werden der oder die Elek- trolyte gewählt aus der GruppeIt is advantageous if the W / O emulsions according to the invention are distinguished by a proportion of electrolytes. According to the invention, the electrolyte or electrolytes are advantageously selected from the group
(1) der Salze mit folgenden Anionen: Chloride, ferner anorganische Oxo-Element-An- ionen, von diesen insbesondere Sulfate, Carbonate, Phosphate, Borate und Alu- minate. Auch auf organischen Anionen basierende Elektrolyte sind vorteilhaft, z.B. Lactate, Acetate, Benzoate, Propionate, Tartrate, Citrate, Aminosäuren und deren Salze und andere mehr. Vergleichbare Effekte sind auch durch Ethylendiaminte- traessigsäure und deren Salze zu erzielen.(1) of the salts with the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo element anions, of these in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminumates. Electrolytes based on organic anions are also advantageous, e.g. Lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids and their salts and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and its salts.
Als Kationen der Salze werden bevorzugt Ammonium,- Alkylammonium,- Alkalimetall-, Erdalkalimetall,- Magnesium-, Eisen- bzw. Zinkionen verwendet. Es bedarf an sich keiner Erwähnung, daß in Kosmetika nur physiologisch unbedenkliche Elektrolyte verwendet werden sollten. Besonders bevorzugt sind Kaliumchlorid, Kochsalz, Magnesiumsulfat, Zinksulfat und Mischungen daraus. Erfindungsgemäß werden der oder die Elektrolyte ferner vorteilhaft gewählt aus derAmmonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts. There is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. According to the invention, the electrolyte or electrolytes are also advantageously selected from the
Gruppegroup
(2) Bestimmte wasserlösliche, zumeist als Alkalisalze vorliegende wasserlösliche UV- Filtersubstanzen, insbesondere solche, die an ihrem Molekülgerüst eine oder mehrere Sulfonsäuregruppen bzw. Sulfonatgruppen tragen:(2) Certain water-soluble UV filter substances, mostly in the form of alkali salts, in particular those which carry one or more sulfonic acid groups or sulfonate groups on their molecular structure:
Die 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beispielsweise das Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-SalzThe 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example the sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt
Suifonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy- benzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz:Suifonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:
Suifonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz:Suifonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:
Die 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und ihre Salze, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz: The 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:
Das 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl-)Benzol und dessen Salze (die ent- prehenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bomyli- denmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet:The 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the resulting 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), too referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidemethyl-10-sulfonic acid):
Erfindungsgemäß werden der oder die Elektrolyte weiterhin vorteilhaft gewählt aus derAccording to the invention, the electrolyte or electrolytes are furthermore advantageously selected from the
Gruppegroup
(3) der Aminosäuren und deren Salze bzw. deren Anionen. Aminosäuren sind Bestandteil des natürlichen Feuchtigkeitsfaktors (der sogenannte Natural Moisturizing Factor). Der Zusatz von Aminosäuren, insbesondere essentieller Aminosäuren, ist als vorteilhaft anzusehen, da über Hydratationsvorgänge Feuchtigkeit in der Haut gebunden werden kann.(3) the amino acids and their salts or their anions. Amino acids are part of the natural moisture factor (the so-called natural moisturizing factor). The addition of amino acids, especially essential amino acids, is to be regarded as advantageous, since moisture can be bound in the skin through hydration processes.
Aminosäuren mit besonders vorteilhafter kosmetischer bzw. dermatologischer Wirkung sind Glycin, Alanin, Valin, Leucin, Isoleucin, Phenylalanin, Tyrosin, Prolin, Hydroxyprolin, Serin, Threonin, Cystein, Methionin, Tryptophan, Arginin.Amino acids with a particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological effect are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine.
Erfindungsgemäß werden der oder die Elektrolyte weiter vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe (4) der kosmetisch und dermatologisch relevanten α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren und ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und insbesondere deren Salze, wobei die Kationen vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Ammonium,- Al- kylammonium,- Alkalimetall-, Erdalkalimetall,- Magnesium-, Eisen- bzw. Zinkionen.According to the invention, the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group (4) the cosmetically and dermatologically relevant .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acids, .alpha.-ketocarboxylic acids and .beta.-hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular their salts, the cations advantageously being able to be selected from the group consisting of ammonium, - alkylammonium, - alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, - magnesium - , Iron or zinc ions.
α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren,1 welche kosmetisch oder dermatologisch relevant sind, folgen der allgemeinen Formelα-Hydroxycarboxylic acids, 1 which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula
ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, welche kosmetisch oder dermatologisch relevant sind, folgen der allgemeinen Formel ß-Hydroxycarboxylic acids, which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula
R" R"R "R"
I II I
R'— CH-CH-COOH R'— C— C— COOHR'— CH-CH-COOH R'— C— C— COOH
OH . OH bzw. α-Ketocarbonsäuren, welche kosmetisch oder dermatologisch relevant sind, folgen der allgemeinen FormelOH. OH or α-ketocarboxylic acids, which are cosmetically or dermatologically relevant, follow the general formula
OO
R'— C— COOH wobei jeweils R' und R" unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der GruppeR'— C— COOH where each R 'and R "are independently selected from the group
(a1) H- ,(a1) H-,
(a2) verzweigtes oder unverzweigtes Cι.25-Alkyl-,(a2) branched or unbranched Cι. 25 alkyl,
(a3) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder Aldehydgruppen und/oder Oxogruppen (Ketogruppen) substituiertes verzweigtes oder unverzweigtes C^s-Alkyl-(a3) branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl substituted with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or aldehyde groups and / or oxo groups (keto groups)
(a4) Phenyl-,(a4) phenyl,
(a5) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Cι.25-Alkylgruppen substituiertes Phenyl-, oder wobei das α-Kohlenstoffatom und das ß-Kohlenstoffatom der ß-Hydro- xycarbonsäure mit R' und R" zusammen eine (a6) unsubstituierte Cycloalkylgruppe oder Arylgruppe mit 3 bis 7 Ringatomen o- der eine(a5) with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or branched and / or unbranched Cι. 25 -alkyl groups substituted phenyl, or wherein the α-carbon atom and the ß-carbon atom of the ß-hydroxycarboxylic acid with R 'and R "together a (a6) unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or aryl group with 3 to 7 ring atoms or one
(a7) mit einer oder mehreren Carboxylgruppen und/oder Hydroxygruppen und/oder Oxogruppen (Ketogruppen) und/oder verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C^s-Alkylgruppen substituierte Cycloalkylgruppe oder Arylgruppe mit 3 bis 7 Ringatomen ausbildet und wobei die α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder die ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder die α-Ketocarbonsäuren gegebenenfalls in Form ihrer physiologisch verträglichen Salze vorliegen können.(a7) with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or oxo groups (keto groups) and / or branched and / or unbranched C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups, substituted cycloalkyl group or aryl group with 3 to 7 ring atoms and wherein the α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or the β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or the α-ketocarboxylic acids can optionally be present in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts.
Es folgen vorteilhaft im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwendende α- Hydroxycarbonsäuren, ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und α-Ketocarbonsäuren, wobei diese auch stellvertretend für ihre Salze bzw. Anionen aufgeführt werden:The following are advantageous α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and α-ketocarboxylic acids to be used in the context of the present invention, these also being listed as representative of their salts or anions:
Die Salicylsäure (auch 2-Hydroxybenzoesäure, Spirsäure), welche durch die StrukturThe salicylic acid (also 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, spiric acid), which by the structure
gekennzeichnet ist. Bekanntermaßen wirkt Salicylsäure antibakteriell und keratolytisch und ist Bestandteil mancher kosmetischen oder pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen. is marked. As is known, salicylic acid has an antibacterial and keratolytic effect and is a component of some cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
Die den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren werden vorteilhaft gewählt aus folgenden Substanzklassen:The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from the following classes of substances:
(a2) α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, wobei diese wiederum besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Cιo-18-Alkylcarbonsäuren gewählt werden, (a3) α-Hydroxyzuckersäuren, aliphatische α-Hydroxyfruchtsäuren, (a4) unsubstituierte aromatische α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren (z.B. Mandelsäure) bzw. (a5) substituierte aromatische α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren. Die unter Punkt (a2) fallenden α-Hydroxyfettsäuren werden besonders vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, gemäß der Formel(a2) α-hydroxy fatty acids, which in turn are selected particularly advantageously from the group of Cιo- 1 8-alkyl carboxylic acids, (a3) α-hydroxy sugar acids, aliphatic α-hydroxy fruit acids, (a4) unsubstituted aromatic α-hydroxy carboxylic acids (e.g. mandelic acid) or (a5) Substituted aromatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids. The α-hydroxy fatty acids falling under point (a2) are particularly advantageously selected from the group α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, according to the formula
α-Hydroxy-isocarbonsäuren, gemäß der Formel α-Hydroxy-isocarboxylic acids, according to the formula
α-Hydroxy-anteisocarbonsäuren, gemäß der Formel α-Hydroxy-anteisocarboxylic acids, according to the formula
wobei n jeweils eine Zahl von 7 bis 31 darstellt. where n represents a number from 7 to 31.
Vorteilhaft ist weiter, Gemische solcher aliphatischen α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, insbesondere in Form von Wollwachssäuregemischen zu verwenden, in welchen der Gehalt an α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren 20 - 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung beträgt.It is furthermore advantageous to use mixtures of such aliphatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular in the form of wool wax acid mixtures, in which the content of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids is 20-30% by weight, based on the total composition.
Die unter Punkt (a3) fallenden α-Hydroxyzuckersäuren werden besonders vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe derThe α-hydroxy sugar acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of
Aldonsäuren, z.B. Gluconsäure, GalactonsäureAldonic acids, e.g. Gluconic acid, galactonic acid
Aldarsäuren, z.B. Glucarsäure, Galactarsäure (aber auch die Fruchtsäure Weinsäure, die ebenfalls unter die Definition der Aldarsäure fällt) Uronsäuren, z.B. Glucuronsäure, Galacturonsäure Glycerinsäure Die unter Punkt (a3) fallenden aliphatischen α-Hydroxyfruchtsäuren werden besonders vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe Äpfelsäure, Milchsäure, Citronensäure, Weinsäure.Aldar acids, for example glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also the fruit acid tartaric acid, which also falls under the definition of aldar acid), uronic acids, for example glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, glyceric acid The aliphatic α-hydroxy fruit acids falling under point (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid.
Äpfelsäure (Hydroxybernsteinsäure) ist durch folgende chemische Struktur gekennzeichnet:Malic acid (hydroxy succinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
HOOC— CH2-CH— COOH I OHHOOC- CH 2 -CH- COOH I OH
Milchsäure (2-Hydroxypropansäure) ist durch folgende chemische Struktur gekennzeichnet:Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
CH3-CH— COOH OHCH 3 -CH- COOH OH
Citronensäure (2-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propantricarbonsäure) ist durch folgende chemische Struktur gekennzeichnet:Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
Bekanntermaßen wird Citronensäure zur Pufferung kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen, aber auch als Synergist für Antioxidantien in der Haut- und Haarkosmetik verwendet.As is known, citric acid is used for buffering cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as a synergist for antioxidants in skin and hair cosmetics.
Weinsäure (Dihydroxybemsteinsäure) ist durch folgende chemische Struktur gekennzeichnet:Tartaric acid (dihydroxy succinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
HOOC— CH—CH— COOH I I OH OHHOOC - CH - CH - COOH I I OH OH
Bevorzugte α-Ketocarbonsäure ist die Brenztraubensäure (α-Oxopropansäure). Sie zeichnet sich durch folgende Struktur aus:The preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid (α-oxopropanoic acid). It is characterized by the following structure:
Die Höchstmenge der einzusetztenden Elektrolyte ist letztendlich abhängig von deren Löslichlichkeit in der wäßrigen Phase. Grundsetzlich setzt die erfindungsgemäße Lehre aber keine Höchstmengen als Schranke, da es gegebenenfalls ja sogar vorteilhaft sein mag, aus welchen Gründen auch immer, einen über die Löslichkeit eines Elektrolytes hinausgehende zusätzliche Menge dieses Elektrolytes, beispielsweise als ungelösten Festkörper, in eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung einzuarbeiten.The maximum amount of the electrolytes to be used ultimately depends on their solubility in the aqueous phase. Basically, the teaching of the invention but no maximum quantities as a barrier, since it may even be advantageous, for whatever reason, to incorporate an additional amount of this electrolyte beyond the solubility of an electrolyte, for example as an undissolved solid, into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
Es ist ferner vorteilhaft, den Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung weitere antiirritative oder antientzündliche Wirkstoffe zuzugeben, insbesondere Batylalkohol (α- Octadecylglycerylether), Selachylalkohol (α-9-Octadecenylglycerylether), Chimylalkohol (α-Hexadecylglycerylether), Bisabolol und/oder Panthenol.It is also advantageous to add further anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory agents to the preparations in the context of the present invention, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.
Es ist ebenfalls vorteilhaft, den Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung übliche Antioxidantien zuzufügen. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Uro- caninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Camosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, ψ- Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thi- ole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Ace- tyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthio- dipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sutfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthionin- sulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathio- ninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Fol- säure und deren Derivate, Furfurylidensorbitol und dessen Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubi- chinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbyl- phosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin- E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäu- re und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Bu- tylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihy- droguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans- Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thi - Oles (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sutfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine-sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfonate, homocysteine sulfonate, homocysteine sulfonate, homocysteine sulfone Pen ta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, Ubiquinone and Ubi- quinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, Rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, mannose and ZnO2 and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, eg 4 ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch Verwendung als Grundlage für kosmetische oder dermatologische Desodorantien bzw. Antitranspirantien finden. Alle für Desodorantien bzw. Antitranspirantien gängigen Wirkstoffe können vorteilhaft genutzt werden, beispielsweise Geruchsüberdecker wie die gängigen Parfümbestandteile, Geruchsabsorber, beispielsweise die in der Patentoffenlegungsschrift DE-P 40 09 347 beschriebenen Schichtsilikate, von diesen insbesondere Montmorillonit, Kaoli- nit, llit, Beidellit, Nontronit, Saponit, Hectorit, Bentonit, Smectit, ferner beispielsweise Zinksalze der Ricinolsäure.Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All active ingredients common to deodorants or antiperspirants can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite , Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
Keimhemmende Mittel sind ebenfalls geeignet, in die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen eingearbeitet zu werden. Vorteilhafte Substanzen sind zum Beispiel 2,4,4'-Trichlor- 2'-hdroxydiphenylether (Irgasan), 1,6-Di-(4-chlorphenylbiguanido)-hexan (Chlorhexidin), 3,4,4'-Trichlorcarbanilid, quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen, Nelkenöl, Minzöl, Thymi- anöl, Triethylcitrat, Farnesol (3,7,11-Trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) sowie die in den Patentoffenlegungsschriften DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321 , DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111 , DE-196 31 003, DE- 196 31 004 und DE-196 34 019 und den Patentschriften DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081 , DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 und DE-195 16 705 beschriebenen Wirkstoffe bzw. Wirkstoffkombinationen. Auch Natriumhydrogencarbonat ist vorteilhaft zu verwenden.Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Examples of advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those in the Patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE -195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE -42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients. Sodium hydrogen carbonate can also be used advantageously.
Die Menge solcher Wirkstoffe (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
Die Wasserphase der kosmetischen Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung kann auch Gelcharakter aufweisen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt am erfindungsgemäß eingesetzten Substanzen und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch weitere organische Verdickungsmittel, z.B. Gummiarabikum, Xanthangummi, Natriumalginat, Stärke und Stärkederivate (z.B. Distär- kephosphat), Cellulose, Cellulose-Derivate, vorzugsweise Methylcellulose, Hydroxyme- thylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylme- thylcellulose oder anorganische Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Aluminiumsilikate wie beispielsweise organisch modifizierte oder auch unmodifizierte Hectorite, Bentonite, oder dergleichen, oder ein Gemisch aus Polyethylenglykol und Polyethylenglykolstearat oder - distearat, enthalten. Das Verdickungsmittel ist in dem Gel z.B. in einer Menge zwischen 0,1 und 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,5 und 15 Gew.-%, enthalten.The water phase of the cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character which, in addition to an effective content of the substances used according to the invention and solvents usually used for this purpose, preferably water, also further organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate), cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as organically modified or unmodified hectorite, bentonite, or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
Besonders vorteilhaft enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Glycerin. Die Gesamtmenge an Glycerin in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich 0,01 - 30,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 - 5,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Ferner kann es von Vorteil sein, Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung grenz- bzw. oberflächenaktive Agentien zuzufügen, beispielsweise kationische Emulgatoren wie insbesondere quatemäre Tenside.The preparations according to the invention particularly advantageously contain glycerol. The total amount of glycerol in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously in the range of 0.01-30.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-5%. 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. It may also be advantageous to add surface-active or surface-active agents to preparations according to the invention, for example cationic emulsifiers such as, in particular, quaternary surfactants.
Quaternäre Tenside enthalten mindestens ein N-Atom, das mit 4 Alkyl- oder Arylgrup- pen kovalent verbunden ist. Dies führt, unabhängig vom pH Wert, zu einer positiven Ladung. Vorteilhaft sind, Alkylbetain, Alkylamidopropylbetain und Aikyl-amidopropylhy- droxysulfain. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kationischen Tenside können ferner bevorzugt gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen, insbesondere Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, wie beispielsweise Ben- zyldimethylstearylammoniumchlorid, ferner Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, beispielsweise beispielsweise Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid oder -bromid, Alkyldimethylhydro- xyethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammoniumethersulfate, Alkylpyridiniumsalze, beispielsweise Lauryl- oder Cetylpyrimidiniumchlorid, Imidazolinderivate und Verbindungen mit kationischem Charakter wie Aminoxide, beispielsweise Alkyldimethylaminoxide oder Alkyiaminoethyldimethylaminoxide. Vorteilhaft sind insbesondere Cetyltrimethyl- ammoniumsalze zu verwenden.Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and aikyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyl or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xdimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, xy or dimethylammonium bromide, x or methyldimethyl bromide bromide, or xdimethyl bromide bromide , Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkyiaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.
Vorteilhaft ist auch, kationische Polymere (z.B. Jaguar C 162 [Hydroxypropyl Guar Hy- droxypropyltrimonium Chloride] bzw. modifizierten Magnesiumaluminiumsilikaten (z.B. Quatemium-18-Hectorit, welches z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Bentone® 38 bei der Firma Rheox erhältlich ist, oder Stearalkonium Hectorit, welches z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Softisan® Gel bei der Hüls AG erhältlich ist), einzusetzen.It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (for example Jaguar C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (for example quatemium-18-hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, or Stearalkonium hectorite, which is available, for example, under the trade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG).
Erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft auch Ölverdickungsmittel enthalten, um die taktilen Eigenschaften der Emulsion und die Stiftkonsistenz zu verbessern. Vorteilhafte Ölverdickungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise weitere Feststoffe, wie z. B. hydrophobe Siliciumoxide des Typs Aerosil®, welche von der Degussa AG erhältlich sind. Vorteilhafte Aerosil®-Typen sind beispielsweise Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 und/oder Aerosil® R976. Ferner sind auch sogenannte Metallseifen (d. h. die Salze höherer Fettsäuren mit Ausnahme der Alkalisalze) vorteilhafte Ölverdickungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, wie beispielsweise Aluminium-Stearat, Zink-Stearat und/oder Magnesium-Stearat.Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, such as, for. B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil®, which are available from Degussa AG. Examples of advantageous Aerosil® grades are Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202 , Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R976. Furthermore, so-called metal soaps (ie the salts of higher fatty acids with the exception of the alkali salts) are also advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as, for example, aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.
Ebenfalls vorteilhaft ist, Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung amphotere bzw. zwitterionischen Tensiden (z.B. Cocoamidopropylbetain) und Moisturizem (z.B. Betain) zuzusetzen. Vorteilhaft zu verwendende amphotere Tenside sind beispielsweise Acyl-/dialkyl- ethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropio- nat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatrium- acyiamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat, N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.It is also advantageous to add amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (e.g. cocoamidopropylbetaine) and moisturizem (e.g. betaine) to preparations according to the invention. Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acyiamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropyl aminodimide, naphthamino aminopropyl amide, amine, for example sodium aminopropyl aminopropyl amide, naphtha aminopropyl aminophenyl amide,
Die Menge der ober- bzw. grenzflächenaktiven Substanzen (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of surface-active or surface-active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen können auch Wirkstoffe (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) enthalten, welche gewählt werden aus der Gruppe: Acetylsalicylsäure, Atropin, Azulen, Hydrocortison und dessen Derivaten, z.B. Hydrocortison-17-valerat, Vitamine, z.B. Ascorbinsäure und deren Derivate, Vitamine der B- und D-Reihe, sehr günstig das Vitamin B-i, das Vitamin B12 das Vitamin Di, aber auch Bisabolol, ungesättigte Fettsäuren, namentlich die essentiellen Fettsäuren (oft auch Vitamin F genannt), insbesondere die γ-Linolensäure, Ölsäure, Eicosapentaensäure, Docosahexaensäure und deren Derivate, Chloramphenicol, Coffein, Prostaglandine, Thymol, Campher, Extrakte oder andere Produkte pflanzlicher und tierischer Herkunft, z.B. Nachtkerzenöl, Bor- retschöl oder Johannisbeerkernöl, Fischöle, Lebertran aber auch Ceramide und cera- midähnliche Verbindungen und so weiter. Vorteilhaft ist es auch, die Wirkstoffe aus der Gruppe der rückfettenden Substanzen zu wählen, beispielsweise Purcellinöl, Eucerit® und Neocerit®. Die Menge solcher Wirkstoffe (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.Preparations according to the invention can also contain active substances (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of B- and D series, very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin B 12, the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on. It is also advantageous to choose the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®. The amount of such active substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.
Beispiele:Examples:

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, welche1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which
(a) Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen darstellen, welche(a) represent water-in-oil emulsions which
(b) einen Gehalt an Talkum aufweisen(b) have a talc content
(c) wobei die Olphase 20 bis 55 % des Gesamtgewichtes der Zubereitung ausmacht und(c) the oil phase making up 20 to 55% of the total weight of the preparation and
(d) wobei die Olphase einen Gehalt von 0,5 bis 12 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an einem oder mehreren Siliconölen, enthält.(d) wherein the oil phase contains from 0.5 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more silicone oils.
2. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an Talkum 0,1 - 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 5 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the talcum content is 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
3. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie einen Gehalt an Glycerin aufweisen.3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they have a glycerol content.
4. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Gesamtmenge an Glycerin aus dem Bereich 0,01 - 30,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,1 - 20,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 - 15,0 Gew.-% gewählt wird, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 4. Preparations according to claim 3, characterized in that the total amount of glycerol in the range 0.01-30.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 - 20.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 15.0% by weight is selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
EP02700228A 2001-02-15 2002-02-13 Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions having a silicon oil and talcum powder content Ceased EP1397107A2 (en)

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PCT/EP2002/001490 WO2002064103A2 (en) 2001-02-15 2002-02-13 Preparations containing silicon oils and talcum powder

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DE102012202337A1 (en) * 2012-02-16 2013-08-22 Beiersdorf Ag Stable water in oil emulsions with improved sensors
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