EP1351662A1 - Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing extracts of so-called 'resurrection plants'.

Description

             Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations FIELD OF THE INVENTION The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations with an effective content of extracts from resurrection plants and the use of the extracts and the active substances contained therein for the production of the preparations. PRIOR ART A major reason for skin aging is the loss of water in the upper layers of the epidermis and the formation of wrinkles associated therewith. Consequently, one of the approaches that cosmetic chemists are trying to use to counteract this phenomenon is to provide active ingredients that counteract environmental stress, dehydration and/or have a protective function so that cells are strengthened in their ongoing fight against environmental toxins. To do this, it is sometimes necessary to find unusual solutions. So it may be advisable to take important information from the knowledge that nature provides us and to transfer it for the respective needs. In the desert and arid zones of Africa, Asia and the Americas, a number of plant families have developed remarkable drought tolerance, allowing them to survive a 98% dehydration for a period of one year, only to thrive during the first monsoon rains within 24 hours to fully regenerate and form flowers. These poikilohydric representatives are summarized under the term "resurrection plants". These include mosses, lichens and ferns as well as a number of flowering plants (angiospermia), whose investigation revealed that the anatomical, biochemical and physiological adaptation is conditioned by the genome. Plants are subjected to two different stresses during the drought period, namely mechanical and oxidative stress. To avoid mechanical stress, resurrecting plants have a range of possibilities, one of which is the shrinking and splitting of vacuoles to lower the tension on the plasma membrane.Further effects are the increased incorporation of xyloglucans and methyl esters of pectin into the cell wall and the accumulation of osmolytes or osmo-regulating molecules (e.g. sucrose, mannitol, D-ononitol, trehaloses, fructans, amino acids etc.), which strengthens the cell wall and stops the production of toxic metabolites during dehydration. The interruption of cellular respiration and photosynthesis during the dry phase also leads to the formation of free radicals that can damage proteins, fats and nucleic acids. In order to prevent this, pigments of the anthocyanin type as well as special enzymes such as e.g. B. superoxide dismutase, glutathione reductase or ascorbate peroxidase, which intervene in the oxidative metabolism and are known as natural radical scavengers. The molecular basis of drought tolerance has not yet been fully elucidated. According to studies by D. Bartels at the University of Bonn, however, it seems to be clear that plant hormones such as abscisic acid (ABA) induce drought tolerance. In the meantime, a number of genes involved in both the drying and re-watering processes have also been isolated. Surprisingly, it was found that these are homologous to genes that are also found in the embryos of maturing seeds. For example, when drying out, the gene dsp-22 (desiccation stress protein) is activated, which stimulates the formation of a 21 KDa protein that accumulates in the chloroplasts [cf. D Bartels et al. EMBO Journal 11 (8), 2771 (1992)]. Furthermore, changes in sugar metabolism are important. For example, the leaves of non-stressed plants contain high concentrations of the unusual sugar 2-octulose, which is converted into sucrose during drying and probably has a protective function. With re-watering, the process is reversible. In this context, reference is also made to international patent application WO 97/42327 (University of Mexico), which reports the isolation of a gene from the resurrecting plant Selaginella lepidophylla which produces the sugar trehalose-6-phosphate. The object of the present invention was therefore to develop new active substances with which skin and hair can be protected from environmental influences in general and with which drying out of the skin can be prevented in particular. Furthermore, skin and hair should be given additional protection against osmotic and temperature-related shock. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing extracts from resurrection plants. Surprisingly, it was found that the extracts—which are also referred to as “survival fractions”—or the active ingredients contained therein, which are mainly osmolytes (polysaccharides), terpenes, antioxidants and phytohormones as well as proteins, fulfill the task mentioned at the outset excellently. The extracts can be used as such, but it is also possible to isolate individual components from them and then to mix them in a different composition as required. Resurrection plants Resurrection plants do not represent a coherent group, but are found in very different plant families, of which the Poacea, Scrophulariacea, Myrothamnacea and/or Velloziacea families should be mentioned in particular. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain extracts from resurrection plants selected from the group of the botanical families Poacea, Scrophulariacea, Myrothamnacea and/or Velloziacea. The most important representatives of the Poaceae include the genus Spirobolus, for example a grass that has a height reaches from 60 to 120 cm and develops pink flowers. It is widespread in the Americas, especially in Costa Rica, where the species Spirobolus cubensis, Spirobolus indicus, Spirobolus heterotepsis, Spirobolus capillaris, Spirobolus flexuosus, Spirobolus cryptandrus and Spirobolus airoides can be found. A particularly important example of a resurrecting plant in the Scrophulariaceae family is the genus Craterostigma, specifically the species Craterostigma plantigineum. From the Myrothamnaceae family, Myrothamnus niedenzu and Myrothamnus flabellifolia in particular should be mentioned; the Myrothamnus flabellifolia family, which was first described by Engler and Prantl in 1891, is particularly preferred for the purposes of the invention. This is a flat shrub that does not lose its leaves during the dry winter months, but rather clings tightly to the branches and comes alive again with the first summer rains. Essential components of the extracts from its leaves are arbutin, anthocyanins, polysaccharides (sucrose, glucose, trehalose, fructose, glucosyl-9-glycerol) and phytohormones (e.g. abscisic acid); continue to be terpenes such. B. Carvone and perillic alcohol found. Similar to octulose, arbutin also plays an important, albeit different, role in drought resistance because, as a source of hydroquinone, it prevents peroxidation of unsaturated lipids in cell membranes. Typical examples of resurgent plants from the VellozAacea family are members of the genus Xerophyta, such as Xerophyta retinervis and Xerophyta viscosa, native to Madagascar, which are flat-topped shrubs that develop showy purple flowers in the monsoon season. Also suitable according to the invention are extracts of the plants of Geni Boea, Ramonda, Habelea, Chamaegigas and Selaginella, such as. B. Selaginella lepidophylla and surviving fractions of protein-rich angiosperms or gymnosperms plants or microorganisms such. B. Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Extraction The extracts can be produced in a manner known per se, i. H. for example by aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extract of the plants or plant parts. Regarding the appropriate traditional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, agitation maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasonic extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacuation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux , which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, all of which are familiar to the person skilled in the art and in principle all applicable, for the sake of simplicity, for example, refer to Hagers Handbuch der Pharmazeutischen Praxis, (5th edition, vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag , Berlin-Heidelberg-New-York 1991). The percolation method is advantageous for large-scale use. Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as the starting material, but usually dried plants and/or parts of plants are used, which can be mechanically comminuted prior to extraction. All comminution methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, freeze grinding being mentioned as an example. Organic solvents, water (preferably hot water at a temperature above 80° C. and in particular above 95° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols with more or less high water contents, can be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions. Extraction with distilled or non-distilled water, methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols and ethyl acetate and mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures of the organic solvents is particularly preferred. Extraction with distilled or non-distilled water, methanol, ethanol and the aqueous solutions of the two alcohols is particularly preferred. The extraction usually takes place at 20 to 100° C., preferably at 30 to 90° C., in particular at 60 to 80° C. In a preferred embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the active substances in the extract. This is particularly important for extractions at temperatures above 40 C. The extraction times are determined by a person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. set. After the extraction, the raw extracts obtained can optionally be subjected to further customary steps such as, for example, purification, concentration and/or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to selective removal of individual undesirable ingredients. Extraction can be done to any degree of extraction, but is usually carried out to exhaustion. Typical yields (=amount of dry matter in the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried leaves are in the range from 3 to 20% by weight, in particular 6 to 10% by weight. The present invention encompasses the finding that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected by a person skilled in the art depending on the desired area of use. These extracts, which generally have active substance contents (=solids contents) in the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, can be used as such, but it is also possible to completely remove the solvent by drying, in particular by spray drying or freeze drying . The extracts can also serve as starting materials for the production of the pure active ingredients, provided these cannot be produced synthetically in a simpler and more cost-effective manner. Active ingredients Instead of the extracts, the active ingredients contained in the surviving fractions can also be used individually or in mixtures, and these can be products that are obtained by purification of the extracts or synthetically. The products which can be obtained by purification from the extracts according to the invention are particularly preferred. Typical examples of suitable active ingredients are osmolytes (e.g. octulose, sucrose, glucose, trehalose, fructose, glucosyl-9-glycerol, xyloglucans, methyl ester of pectin), terpenes (e.g. carvone, perillic alcohol), antioxidants (e.g. arbutin, anthocyanins, superoxide dismutase, glutathione reductase, ascorbate peroxidase) and phytohormones (e.g. abscisic acid). In a particular embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain extracts which have effective levels of osmolytes, terpenes, antioxidants and/or phytohormones. Octulose, arbutin, abscisic acid and mixtures thereof are of particular importance. The extracts are used in effective amounts, i. H. depending on the amount of active substances contained therein (=amount of solids) in concentrations of 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the amount of active substance and final preparation. For the pure active ingredients, the quantities apply accordingly. Commercial applicability Further objects of the invention relate to the use of extracts from resurrection plants for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations and as active ingredients > to regulate the water balance in the skin or to regulate moisture in the skin > to strengthen cell metabolism to ward off damaging environmental influences , in particular for cell protection against environmental influences such as heat shock, cold shock or osmotic shock; > to protect skin and hair against damage caused by UV radiation, > to protect skin and hair from free radicals and > to protect the macromolecules in skin cells and cell membranes. Finally, further objects of the invention relate to the use of octulose, arbutin and/or abscisic acid for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations. Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations The extracts or active ingredients according to the invention can be used to produce cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/ fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments. These agents can also contain, as additional auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oils, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, bodying agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like. Surfactants Anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the agents is usually about 1 to 70%, preferably 5 to 50% and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates , mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl ( ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(ene)yl oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based plant products) , polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and production of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Katalysatoren , Surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, p. 123217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i. H. Skin-like surfactants are particularly skin-in-case alcohol-polyglycolethersulfate, monoglyceride sulfate, monound/or dialkylsulfosuccinate, fatty acid, fatty acid, fatty acid restaurant, a-olefinsulfonate, alcoholol, alcoholol Igoglucoside, fatty acid gucamide, alkylamidobetaine, amphoacetale and/or protein fatty acid conference, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins. Oil components Examples of oil components are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched Ce-Cis carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl rucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetylisostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, I sostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl lerucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyleruca t, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate . Also suitable are esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C18-C38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 A1), especially dioctyl malate, Esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (e.g. propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Clo fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C6- Cl8 fatty acids, esters of C6-C2z fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 Hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as. B. dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol0 CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finso) v&commat; TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol0 OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicium methicone types, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as e.g. B. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. Emulsifiers Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical; Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl radical and their ethoxylated analogues; Addition products of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and/or hardened castor oil; Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and/or hardened castor oil; Partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide; Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides ( eg cellulose) with saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide; > Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and/or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol. mono-, di- and tri-alkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts; > wool wax alcohols ; polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives; block copolymers e.g. B. polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearates; polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich; polyalkylene glycols and glycerol carbonate. Ethylene oxide addition products The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homologous mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Civils fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as moisturizing agents for cosmetic preparations. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value, which is based on a homolog distribution that is customary for such technical products. Partial glycerides Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, lemon diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures that may contain small amounts of triglycerides from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable. Sorbitan esters Sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan diericate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesqui ricinoleate, sorbitan iricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, Sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable. Polyglycerol esters Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameforme TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Iso ! an® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate ( Iso) an&commat; PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care™ 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina3), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexanee NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophord3 GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (AdmulQ3 WOL 1403) polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide. Anionic Emulsifiers Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid. Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3 -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8/18-alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12/18-acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers, with those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred. Fats and waxes Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i. H. solid or liquid plant or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, as waxes include u. natural waxes such as B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), rump fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as As montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such. B. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to the fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. Those skilled in the art understand the term lecithins to mean those glycero-phospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore also often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the kephalins, which are also known as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be monoesters and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines and sphingolipids are also possible. Pearlescent Waxes Suitable pearlescent waxes are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, specifically ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, specifically long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, specifically lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof. Consistency agents and thickeners Consistency factors are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols having 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicic acids), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, ( e.g., CarbopoleX and Pemulen grades from Goodrich; Synthalene0 from Sigma; Keltrol grades from Kelco; Sepigel grades from Seppic; Salcare grades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as e.g. B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable. Superfatting agents Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers. Stabilizers As stabilizers, metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used. Polymers Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose sold under the name Polymer JR 400&commat; available from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. B. Luviquate (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as Lauryidimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequatd3L/Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. e.g. amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®/Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquate 550/Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as e.g. B. described in FR 2252840 A and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally distributed microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. B. Jaguar&commat; CBS, Jaguar&commat; C-17, Jaguar&commat; C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as. B. Mirapo ! &quot; A-15, Mirapolo AD-1, Mirapole AZ-1 from Miranol. Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride /acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert. Butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are found in Cosm. Toil 108 , 95 (1993). Silicone Compounds Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be liquid or resinous at room temperature. Also suitable are simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in cosm. Toil 91 , 27 (1976). UV Light Protection Filters and Antioxidants In addition to the extracts according to the invention or the effective contents of active ingredients in these extracts as active ingredients against damage caused by UV radiation, further UV light protection factors can also be used. UV sun protection factors are to be understood, for example, as organic substances (sun protection filters) that are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. Examples include: >3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorcamphor and derivatives thereof, e.g. B. 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1; >4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); > Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; > Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; > Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; > Triazine derivatives, e.g. B. 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2-ethyl-1-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorbd3 HEB) ; propane-1,3-dione, such as e.g. B. 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione; > Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in EP 0694521 B1. Suitable water-soluble substances are: >2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; >Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; > Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof. Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, 1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert.butyl-4, come into consideration as typical UV-A filters - methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsolo 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-e-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsoi® 1789) and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and/or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and/or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate -, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, can also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles that have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape that deviates in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface treated, e.g. H. hydrophilized or hydrophobic. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex T2000 (Merck). Silicones in particular, and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, come into consideration as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Preferably micronized zinc oxide is used. Other suitable UV light protection filters are the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf. cosm. 3 11 (1999). In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary sunscreens, secondary sunscreens of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain that is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. a-carotene, ss-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose , propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine). , butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. e.g. pmol to limol/kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. a hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), a-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts , bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. y-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutic acid and its derivatives, a-glycosyl rutin , ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS04) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients. Biogenic active ingredients Among biogenic active ingredients are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ss glucans, retinof, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils , other plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Deodorants and antiseptics Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. > Germ-inhibiting agents In principle, all substances that are effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, e.g. B. 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4 -chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3-(4-Chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-Iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, Chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-Trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), Antibacterial Fragrances, Thymol, Thyme Oil, Eugenol, Clove Oil, Menthol, Mint Oil , farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as e.g. B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide. > Enzyme inhibitors Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagenq3 CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor formation. Other substances that come into consideration as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid , Adipic acid mono ethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate. > Odor absorbers Substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can largely retain them are suitable as odor absorbers. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid as the main component or special, largely odorless fragrances known to those skilled in the art as “fixateurs”, such as, for example, B. extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from blossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, wood, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials are also possible, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Perfume compounds of the ester type are z. B. benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Ionone and methylcedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together produce an attractive fragrance. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, Clary sage oil, ss-damascone, bourbon geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilat, Irotyl and Floramat alone or in mixtures. Antiperspirants Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce perspiration by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract underarm wetness and body odour. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients: >astringent active ingredients, >oil components, >nonionic emulsifiers, >coemulsifiers, >consistency enhancers, >excipients such as e.g. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or> non-aqueous solvents such. B. ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerol. Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are z. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorhydrat and their complexes z. B. with propylene glycol-t, 2. aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complexes z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in small amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil-soluble auxiliaries can, for. B. be: > anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils, > synthetic skin-protecting active ingredients and/or > oil-soluble perfume oils. Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, z. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, z. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such. B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides. Film formers Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Anti-dandruff active ingredients Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(lH)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival (D (climbazole), ketoconazole, (4-acetyl-1 - {-4-[2-(2. 4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(lH-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4- ylmethoxyphenyllpiperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulphide, sulfur colloidal, Sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepone UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate Swelling agents for aqueous phases can be montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemulen and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) Other suitable polymers and swelling agents can be found in the review by R. Lochhead in Cosm Toil 108, 95 (1993). Insect repellents Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate. Self-tanners and depigmenting agents Dihydroxyacetone is a suitable self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) are examples of tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents. Hydrotropes Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are >glycerin; > Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; > Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a self-condensation degree of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; >Methylol compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; > Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, >sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; > Amino sugars, such as glucamine; > Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol. Preservatives Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and those sold under the name Surfacine®. known silver complexes and the other classes of substances listed in Annex 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. Perfume Oils and Flavors Perfume oils which may be mentioned are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange ), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, camus), wood (pine, sand, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials are also possible, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Perfume compounds of the ester type are z. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert. Butyl cyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellal lyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z. The alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance note. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferred are bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ss-damascone, bourbon geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romililat, Irotyl and Floramat alone or in mixtures. Examples of flavors that can be used are peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like. Colorants Substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used as colorants, as listed, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of the Colorants Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are Cochineal Red A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.I. 42051), Indigotine (C.I. 73015), Chlorophylline (C.I. 75810), Quinoline Yellow (C.I. 47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.I. 77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (C.I. 69800), and Madder Lake ( C.I. 58000). Luminol can also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. EXAMPLES Example 1 30 g of dried leaves or stems of Myrothamnus flabellifolia were roughly crushed in a mortar, then transferred to a glass reactor and 300 ml of distilled water were added. The infusion was heated to approx. 80° C. and extracted at this temperature over a period of 1 hour with stirring. The mixture was then cooled to 20° C. and centrifuged at a speed of 5000 g for 15 min. The supernatant was separated from the residue by filtration (filter mesh: 0.45 µm) to obtain 190 ml of the extract, which had a dry residue of 1.6% by weight. After spray drying, a powder was obtained, the yield being 9.1% by weight based on the dry weight. Example 2 Example 1 was repeated, but the extraction was carried out with a methanol/water mixture (1:1). After spray drying, a powder was obtained, the yield being 18.5% by weight based on the dry weight. Example 3 Example 1 was repeated using leaves of Spirobolus cubensis (Hitchcock). A powder was obtained, the yield being around 10% by weight based on the dry weight. Example 4 Example 1 was repeated using leaves of Selaginella lepidophylla. A powder was obtained, the yield being around 10% by weight based on the dry weight. Example 5 Example 1 was repeated using leaves of Xerophyta retinervis. A powder was obtained, the yield being around 10% by weight based on the dry weight. Example 6 Example 1 was repeated, but the extraction was carried out using leaves of Craterostigma plantigineum with 300 ml of 96% by weight ethanol. The leaves were extracted twice as described above and the extracts pooled. The alcohol was then first removed at 45.degree. C. under reduced pressure and the residue was then dried at 50.degree. A powder was obtained in which the yield, based on the dry weight of the leaves used, was around 20% by weight. Example 7 1 kg of fresh baker's yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae was suspended in 2 liters of water containing 50 mM NaC. The pH of the solution was adjusted to 7.5 with 2N NaOH solution, heated at 100° C. for 15 min and then cooled. The cells were destroyed at 800 bar using a discontinuous high-pressure homogenizer. The pH was adjusted to 4 with 2N sulfuric acid, and the suspension was again heated to 100° C. for 15 minutes and cooled. Insoluble parts were separated by centrifugation at 5600 g for 30 minutes, and the supernatant was filtered. The opalescent solution obtained was dried and 4.3% dry product was obtained. Example 8: Cell protective effect against UVA on human fibroblasts cultured in vitro Background: UVA rays penetrate into the dermis, where they lead to oxidative stress, which is demonstrated by lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmic membranes. The lipoperoxides are broken down into malonaldialdehyde, which will cross-link many biological molecules such as proteins and nucleobases (enzyme inhibition or mutagenesis). Method: To carry out these tests, a defined culture medium (DMEM) containing the fibroblasts was inoculated with fetal calf serum and the plant extract (in the defined medium with 10% fetal calf serum) was added 72 hours after inoculation. The incubation took place at 37 C and a CO2 content of 5%. After 48 hours of incubation at 37 C and a CO2 content of 5%, the culture medium was replaced with a saline solution (physiological NaCl solution) and the fibroblasts were irradiated with a UVA dose (365 nm, 20 J/cm2; tubes: MAZDA FLUOR TFWN40). After termination of the irradiation, the MDA level (malonaldialdehyde level) in the supernatant sodium chloride solution was quantitatively determined by reaction with thiobarbituric acid. The protein content was determined according to Bradford's method with a Coomassie brilliant blue stain (Bradford; Analytical biochem., 72; 248-254; 1976). EMI26.1 <tb> <SEP> concentration <SEP> content <SEP> of <SEP> MDA <SEP> content <SEP> of <SEP> proteins <tb> <SEP> % by weight <SEP> [% <SEP> versus <SEP> control <SEP> [% <SEP> versus <SEP> control <tb> <SEP> extract <SEP> after <SEP> example <SEP> 1 <SEP> extract <SEP> after <SEP> example <SEP> 1 < tb> <SEP> control <SEP> without <SEP> UV0100 <tb> <SEP> UVA <SEP> (365 <SEP> nm) <SEP> 100 <SEP> 103 <SEP> (7) <tb> <SEP > UVA <SEP> + <SEP> Vitamin <SEP> E <SEP> 31 <SEP> (4) <SEP> 102 <SEP> (11) <tb> UVA <SEP> + <SEP> Extract <SEP> 0 , <SEP> 1% <SEP> 91 <SEP> (5) <SEP> 101 <SEP> (16) <tb> UVA <SEP> + <SEP> extract <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> % <SEP > 67 <SEP> (6) <SEP> 100 <SEP> (17) <tb> Table 1 Content of MDA and proteins for determining the cell protective effect against UVA (the standard deviation is in brackets) The results from the table show that the extracts of the plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia at a concentration of 0.3% by weight significantly reduce the level of MDA in human fibroblasts, which is induced by UVA rays. These results show a high capacity to reduce the harmful effects of oxidative stress on the skin. The protein content again illustrates the non-toxic effect of the extract. Example 9 Cell Protection Against UVB on Human Keratinocytes Grown in Vitro Method: The effect of UVB radiation was investigated on keratinocytes in vitro by determining the release of the cytoplasmic enzyme LDH (lactate dehydrogenase). This enzyme serves as a marker for cell damage. To carry out the tests, a defined medium (DMEM) containing fetal calf serum was inoculated with the keratinocytes and the plant extract (diluted with saline solution) was added 72 hours after inoculation. The keratinocytes were then irradiated with a UVB dose (50 mJ/cm2 tubes: DUKE FL40E). After a further 1 day of incubation at 37° C. and at 5% CO 2 , the LDH content in the supernatant was determined. The content of LDH (lactate dehydrogenase) was determined spectrophotometrically by determining the NADH content during the LDH-catalyzed conversion of pyruvate to lactate according to Bonnekoh's method. (Bonnekoh B et al.; Dermatol. Research; 282; 325-329; 1990). The number of adherent keratinocytes was determined using a DNA essay based on a fluorescence measurement of fluorochrome which binds to cellular DNA using the Desaufniers method. (Desaulniers D, et al.; Toxic). in vitro ; 12 ; 409-422; 1998) using a particle counter. The test was compared to a standard anti-inflammatory agent, acetylsalicylic acid. EMI27.1 <SEP> Extract <SEP> after <SEP> example <SEP> 1 <SEP> [% by weight] <SEP> number <SEP> keratinocytes <SEP> content <SEP> of <SEP> released <SEP > LDH <tb> <SEP> control <SEP> without <SEP> UV <SEP> 100 <SEP> 0 <tb> <SEP> UVB <SEP> 315 <SEP> nu <SEP> 25 <SEP> (3) <SEP> 100 <tb> UVB <SEP> + <SEP> acetylsalicylic acid <SEP> (0, <SEP> 03 <SEP> %) <SEP> 76 <SEP> (5) <SEP> 3 <SEP> (2 ) <tb> <SEP> UVB <SEP> + <SEP> Extract <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <SEP> % <SEP> 27 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 91 <SEP> 8 <tb> <SEP > UVB <SEP> + <SEP> Extract <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> % <SEP> 40 <SEP> (7) <SEP> 57 <SEP> (20 <tb> Table 2 Content of released LDH for determination the cell protective effect against UVB (the standard deviation is in brackets) The results of these tests show that the extracts show the effect of UVB radiation on the number of keratinocytes and on the content of released LDH at a concentration of 0.3 wt. The extracts described show the ability to reduce the damage to cell membranes caused by UVB radiation. Example 10 Cell Protection Against Heat Shock in Human Fibroblasts The heat shock in human fibroblasts was induced by increasing the incubation temperature from 37° C. to 45° C. for two hours. The number of living stressed cells was determined by the level of cellular adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and the level of lactate dehydrogenase (LDH). ATP level is a well known marker of cellular viability and altered level is a very sensitive test of cytotoxicity. The content was determined using the Vasseur method (Vasseur P. et al.; Environmental Pollution; 1; 167-175; 1980). The release of the high molecular weight cytoplasmic enzyme LDH is a sign of cell membrane damage and is a general marker of cell damage. The content of LDH (lactate dehydrogenase) was determined spectrophotometrically by determining the NADH content during the LDH-catalyzed conversion of pyruvate to lactate according to Bonnekoh's method. (Bonnekoh B et al.; Dermatol. Research; 282; 325-329; 1990). Method: To carry out these tests, a defined culture medium (DMEM) containing the fibroblasts was inoculated with fetal calf serum and the plant extract or the mixtures and preparations to be tested (in the defined medium with 10% fetal calf serum) were added 72 hours after inoculation. The incubation took place at 37 C and a CO 2 content of 5%. After 48 hours of incubation at 37 C and a CO 2 content of 5%, the cells were subjected to heat shock by increasing the incubation temperature from 37 C to 45 C for two hours. Another incubation of 24 hours at 37 C and a CO 2 content of 5% followed. The content of ATP was monitored by determining the amount of light in the enzymatic reaction between ATP and the complex of luciferin/luciferase. In addition to the extract from Example 1, a mixture containing water, glycerol, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract and a preparation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract according to Example 1 and yeast extract according to Example 7 in a ratio of 1: 1 at a concentration of 0.01% by weight tested. EMI29.1 <SEP> treatment <SEP> <SEP> level of <SEP> ATP <SEP> [%] <SEP> level <SEP> of <SEP> released <SEP> LDH <SEP> [%] <tb> <SEP> control <SEP> without <SEP> heat shock <SEP> 100 <SEP> 0 <tb> <SEP> control <SEP> with <SEP> heat shock <SEP> 17 <SEP> (5) <SEP> 100 < tb> <SEP> extract <SEP> after <SEP> example <SEP> 1 <SEP> with <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> wt% <SEP> + <SEP> heat shock <SEP> 77 <SEP> (4) <SEP> 16 <SEP> (7) <tb> <SEP> Named <SEP> mixture <SEP> with <SEP> 1 <SEP> % by weight <SEP> + <SEP> heat shock <SEP> 40 <SEP> 18 <SEP> 50 <SEP> 13 <tb> Preparation <SEP> from <SEP> extract <SEP> according to <SEP> example <SEP> 1 <SEP> and <SEP> example <SEP> 7 < SEP> 74 <SEP> 8 <tb> <SEP> (ratio <SEP> 1 <SEP> : <SEP> 1)/0, <SEP> 01 <SEP> wt% <SEP> + <SEP> heat shock < tb> Table 3 Content of released LDH and released ATP to determine the cell protective effect against heat shock (the standard deviation is in brackets) The harmful effect of heat shock on human fibroblasts could be shown by the reduced content of ATP and the increased content of released LDH. Treatment with Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract has shown cellular resistance to heat shock. At a concentration of 0.3% by weight, the cytotoxic effect of heat shock, determined by the ATP content and by the content of released LDH, could be almost completely eliminated. Example 11 Cell Protection Against Cold Shock in Human Lymph Cells The viability of stressed cells was examined in human lymph cells by a test with propidium iodide. Propidium iodide is not taken up into the cell by intact cells d. H. it does not penetrate through the intact cell wall. Only damage to the cell wall allows the fluorescent marker to penetrate into the cell. As a result, destroyed cells become fluorescent and uptake of the marker can be quantified by flow cytometry (cf. Lemaster JJ. et al.; Nature; 325; 78-81; 1987). Method: The lymph cells were cultured for one day in a standard medium “RPMI 1640 complete” from Sigma. The standard growth medium was then replaced by a medium which either served as a control medium or contained the mixture to be tested according to Example 10 containing water, glycerol, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract and incubated for another day. The cold shock was induced by deep freezing at -20 C for 15 minutes. The test results were determined either after a 15 minute post-shock incubation at +20 C or after a 4 hour incubation at 37 C by flow cytometry according to the Lemaster method. The values for lymph cells without cold shock and addition of the mixture at 0.1% by weight were determined at the same incubation times in each case, but the cells were not exposed to a 15-minute cold shock. EMI30.1 Treatment <SEP> propium <SEP> iodide positive <SEP> cells <SEP> [%] <SEP> propium <SEP> iodide positive <SEP> cells <SEP> [%] <tb> <SEP> 15 <SEP> minutes <SEP> after <SEP> the <SEP> cold shock <SEP> 4 <SEP> hours <SEP> after <SEP> the <SEP> cold shock <tb> LyC <SEP> without <SEP> cold shock < SEP> 11, <SEP> 2 <SEP> (0.4) <SEP> 9.9 <SEP> (0.17) <tb> LyC <SEP> + <SEP> mix <SEP> with <SEP> 0 , <SEP> 1 <SEP> wt% <SEP> 12.4 <SEP> (0.23) <SEP> 6.7 <SEP> (0.17) <tb> LyC <SEP> + <SEP > with <SEP> cold shock <SEP> 15.2 <SEP> (0.57) <SEP> 24.3 <SEP> (6.75) <tb> Lyc <SEP> C <SEP> + <SEP> mixture <SEP> with <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> wt% <SEP> + <SEP> cold shock <SEP> 12 <SEP> (1.09) <SEP> 11.2 <SEP> (0.86 ) <tb> LyC = lymph cells Table 4 Content of fluorescent cells for determining the cell protective effect against cold shock (the standard deviation is in brackets) A 15-minute cold shock period after an incubation period of 4 hours shows an increase in destroyed cells that express the fluorescent marker have recorded. Treatment with a mixture containing water, glycerin, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract significantly increased the viability of lymph cells after cold shock. Example 12 Cell Protection Against Osmotic Stress on Red Blood Cells (Erythrocytes) The resistance against osmotic stress or “osmotic shock” on the membrane-stabilizing activity was tested on human red blood cells by bringing them into contact with a hypoosmotic medium. Method: First, a solution of buffered hypo-osmotic salt solution containing 0.24 g/l NaCl was prepared and the red blood cells were incubated in this solution at room temperature for 60 minutes. The mixture to be tested containing water, glycerin, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract was added in different concentrations. However, as a control, the cells were incubated in the osmotic salt solution without the mixture to be tested. The cells were then centrifuged at 3000 rpm for 10 min. The intensity of the hemolysis that started (escape of hemoglobin from the erythrocytes) was monitored spectrophotometrically at an optical density of 412 nm. EMI31.1 Treatment <SEP> intensity <SEP> on <SEP> released <SEP> hemoglobin <tb> control <SEP> with <SEP> osmotic <SEP> shock <SEP> 100 <tb> named <SEP> mixture <SEP > with <SEP> 1 <SEP> wt% <SEP> + <SEP> osmotic <SEP> shock <SEP> 91 <SEP> (6) <tb> Named <SEP> mixture <SEP> with <SEP> 3 <SEP> wt% <SEP> + <SEP> osmotic <SEP> shock <SEP> 45 <SEP> (6) <tb> Table 5 Intensity of released hemoglobin to determine the cell protective effect against osmotic shock (in brackets where the standard deviation is found) The tests demonstrate a cell-protecting activity of the tested mixture containing water, glycerol, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract against osmotic shock. At a concentration of 3% by weight of the solution, this effect can be detected significantly by a reduced release of hemoglobin from the stressed erythrocytes. Example 13 Test for Moisture Regulation of the Skin Background: The horny layer (the stratum corneum) is found in the epidermis of human skin. The stratum corneum is a dielectric medium of low electrical conductivity. The water content leads to increased dielectric conductivity and the determination of the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum can thus serve as a measure of the degree of moisture in human skin. The increase in the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum reflects an increased degree of moisture in the human skin. Method : Normal skin samples obtained from plastic surgery were used for this test. The stratum corneum from these skin samples was stored in chambers with a defined relative humidity (44%, saturated solution of potassium carbonate) and standardized. Each sample of stratum corneum was tested comparatively under four conditions. 1) without treatment ; 2) treatment with placebo; 3) Treatment with a preparation consisting of a hydrogel (Hydrogel LS from Laboratoire Sérobiologique LS) containing 1.125% by weight My rothamnus flabellifolia extract. 4) Treatment with a preparation consisting of a hydrogel (Hydrogel LS from Laboratoire Sérobiologique LS) containing 3% by weight of a mixture containing water, glycerol, trehalose, polysaccharides from Tamarindus indica seeds and Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract. The hydrogel (Hydrogel LS from Laboratoire Sérobiologique LS) without the preparation described, i.e. without plant extract, served as a placebo. The moisture-regulating activity of the preparation described above was determined as a percentage increase in conductivity compared to the placebo treatment. A dose-dependent moisture-regulating activity can be seen from the results. EMI32.1 <tb> Type <SEP> of <SEP> treatment <SEP> before <SEP> de <SEP> 30 <SEP> min <SEP> 1 <SEP> : <SEP> hour. <SEP> 2 <SEP> hours <SEP> 4 <SEP> hours <SEP> 6 <SEP> hours <SEP> 2 <SEP> hours <tb> <SEP> treatment <SEP> = <tb> control <SEP> 22, <SEP> 5 <SEP> (4, <SEP> 4) <SEP> 22, <SEP> 1 <SEP> (2, <SEP> 7) <SEP> 21, <SEP> 9 <SEP> ( 3, <SEP> 8) <SEP> 23, <SEP> 9 <SEP> (4, <SEP> 4) <SEP> 20, <SEP> 3 <SEP> (3, <SEP> 3) <SEP> 22, <SEP> 9 <SEP> (3, <SEP> 9) <SEP> 20, <SEP> 0 <SEP> (3, <SEP> 0) <tb> check <SEP> ! <SEP> ie <SEP> 22.5 <SEP> (4.4) <SEP> 22.1 <SEP> (2.7) <SEP> 21.9 <SEP> (3.8) <SEP> 23 .9 <SEP> (4,4) <SEP> 20.3 <SEP> (3,3) <SEP> 22.9 <SEP> (3,9) <SEP> 20.0 <SEP> (3, 0) <tb> Placebo <SEP> 23.7 <SEP> (1.8) <SEP> 59.1 <SEP> (2.4) <SEP> 41.3 <SEP> (2.7) <SEP > 34.9 <SEP> (2.1) <SEP> 33.6 <SEP> (2.4) <SEP> 33.0 <SEP> (3.0) <SEP> 32.0 <SEP> ( 1.7) <tb> treatment <SEP> after <SEP> 3) <SEP> 22.9 <SEP> (1.6) <SEP> 82.4 <SEP> (11.9) <SEP> 50, 7 <SEP> (2.8) <SEP> 40.1 <SEP> (3.0) <SEP> 35.1 <SEP> (2.5) <SEP> 32.6 <SEP> (2.4 ) <SEP> 31.8 <SEP> (1.8) <tb> treatment <SEP> after <SEP> 4) <SEP> 24.4 <SEP> (2.8) <SEP> 111, <SEP> 1 <SEP> (6.5) <SEP> 80.7 <SEP> (4.2) <SEP> 67.9 <SEP> (4.6) <SEP> 56.9 <SEP> (4.3 ) <SEP> 53.5 <SEP> (4.4) <SEP> 54.6 <SEP> (4.7) <tb> Table 1 Moisture control effect determined by measurement of dielectric conductivity (in pS) ; Mean value from 18 investigations (the standard deviation is in brackets) Example 14 To determine the polysaccharide composition, the extracts according to Examples 1 and 2 were subjected to thin-layer chromatography. Solvent: acetone-butanol-phosphate buffer/pH=7:50:40:10 v/v) staining Nl-(naphthyl)ethylenediamine dihydrochloride (100 C; 10-15 min) FIG. 1 shows the chromatogram for example 14 The numbering below of the chromatogram has the following meaning: 1 Analytical extract of Myrothamnus flabellifolia 2 : Analytical extract of Myrothamnus flabellifolia 3 : Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract according to Example 1 at 1% by weight 4 : Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract according to Example 2 at 1% by weight 5 : Trehalose Standard 0.1% by weight 6: rhamnose Standard 0.1% by weight 7: glucose Standard 0.1% by weight Example 15 To determine the free-radical scavengers, the extracts according to Examples 1 and 2 were subjected to a further thin-layer chromatography. Solvent : toluene-ethyl acetate-formic acid-water, 46:84:24:15 v/v). Staining : Neu + PEG (flavones), DMCA (tannins, anthocyanins), 100 C ; 10-15 min. Figure 2 shows the chromatogram for example 15 and the numbering below the chromatogram has the following meaning: 1: Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract according to example 1 at 1% by weight 2: Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract according to example 2 at 1% by weight -% 3 : Analytical methanol extract 80% v/v at 7.5% v/v according to example 1 4 : Analytical methanol extract 80% v/v at 7.5% v/v according to example 2 5 : Standard mixture : rutin + isoquercitrin 6 : standard mixture : quercetin+quercetol Examples 16 and 17 Table 7 below shows two so-called “survival fractions” which were produced by mixing active components of the extracts according to the invention. It was produced by mixing the xyloglucans, the extracts and the glycerine at 70° C.; the remaining ingredients were added later. Table 7 Survival Fractions EMI33.1 Composition <SEP> Ex. <SEP> 16 <SEP> Ex17 <tb> Tamarinds <SEP> Xyloglucans <SEP> 16.7 <SEP> 16 <SEP> 0 <tb> Extract <SEP> Ex <SEP> 1 <SEP> 37, <SEP> 5 <tb> Extract <SEP> Ex. <SEP> 6-37, <SEP> 5 <tb> Glycerol <SEP> 40.0 <SEP> 40 <SEP > 0 <tb> trehalose <SEP> 2, <SEP> 3 <SEP> 2, <SEP> 0 <tb> preservative <SEP> 3, <SEP> 5 <SEP> 3, <SEP> 5 <tb> water <SEP> ad <SEP> 100 <tb> From the above results of the activity determination examples, it is clear that the examined and tested extracts of the Myrothamnus flabellifolia plant have the following abilities: 1. Reduction of the lipo induced by UVA rays in human fibroblasts degree of peroxidation ; 2. Reduction of cell damage induced by UVB on human keratinocytes; 3. Cell protective effect against heat shock, cold shock and osmotic shock and thus an activity to protect the skin against harmful environmental influences. 4. a preparation containing extracts from the plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia showed clear moisture-regulating abilities. Table 2 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservatives ad 100% by weight) EMI34.1 <tb> Composition <SEP> (INCI) <SEP> 1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 5 <SEP > 6 <tb> Emu) <SEP> gade&commat; <SEP> SE5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> 4, <SEP> 0 <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Glyceryl <SEP> Sterate <SEP> (and ) <SEP> Ceteareth <SEP> 12/20 <SEP> (and) <SEP> Cetearyl <SEP> Alcohol <tb> <SEP> (and)Cetyl <SEP> Palmitate <tb> Eumulgin# <SEP> Bi <SEP > - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Ceteareth-12 <tb> Lameform# <SEP> TGI <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> <tb> Polyglyceryl-3 <SEP> Isostearate <tb> Dehymuls# <SEP> PGPH-----4, <SEP> 0 <tb> Polyglyceryl-2 < SEP> Dipolyhydroxystearate <tb> Monomulse <SEP> 90-018 <SEP> 2, <SEP> 0 <tb> Glyceryl <SEP> Oleate <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> HE-----2, <SEP> 0 <tb> PEG-7 <SEP> Glyceryl <SEP> Cocoate <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> OE <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP > 6.0 <tb> dicaprylyl <SEP> ether <tb> cetiol# <SEP> PGL <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 10, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 9.0 <tb> Hexyldecanol <SEP> (and) <SEP> Hexyldecyl <SEP> Laurate <tb> Cetiols <SEP> SN <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3, 0 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> CetearylIsononanoate <tb> Cetiole <SEP> V <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <tb> DecylOleate <tb> Myritol # <SEP> 318---3, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> 5.0 <tb> CocoCaprylate <SEP> Caprate <tb> Bees <SEP> Wax <SEP> 7, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <tb> Nutrilan&commat; <SEP> elastin <SEP> E20 <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> 2.0--- <tb> hydrolyzed elastin <tb> extract <SEP> according to <SEP> example <SEP> 1 <SEP> 0, 1 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Extract <SEP> according to <SEP> Bs. <SEP> 2 <SEP> - <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> - < SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Extract <SEP> emä# <SEP> Ex. <SEP> 3 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Extract <SEP> according to <SEP> Example <SEP> 4 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Extract < SEP> according to <SEP> Ex. <SEP> 5----0 <SEP> 1 <tb> Extract <SEP> according to <SEP> Bs. <SEP> 6 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0.1 <tb> Nutrillan# <SEP> I-50 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> H <SEP> drol <SEP> zed <SEP> Colla <SEP> en <tb> Gluadin# <SEP> AGP <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> - <SEP> <tb> Hvdrolvzed <SEP> Wheat <SEP> Gluten <tb> Gluadin# <SEP> WK <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5 <SEP> 0.5 <tb> Sodium <SEP> Cocoyl <SEP> Hydrolyzed <SEP> Wheat <SEP> Protein <tb> Highcareen# <SEP> GS <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> Betaglucan <tb> Hydagen# <SEP> CMF <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1 .0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> Chitosan <tb> Magnesium <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> Hepta <SEP> Hydrate <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP > - <SEP> - <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> glycerol <SEP> (86 <SEP> wt% <SEP> ig) <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <SEP > 3 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <tb> (1,2) soft cream, (3,4) Moisturizing emulsion, (5,6) night cream Table 2 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100% by weight)-continued EMI35.1 Composition <SEP> (INCI) <SEP> 7 <SEP> 8 <SEP> 9 <SEP> 10 <SEP> 11 <SEP> 12 <tb> Emu <SEP> ! <SEP> gade&commat; <SEP>SE5, <SEP>0 <SEP>5.0 <SEP>5.0 <SEP>4.0- Glyceryl <SEP> Sterate <SEP> (and) <SEP> Ceteareth <SEP> 12/20 < SEP> (and) <SEP> Cetearyl <SEP> Alcohol <tb> <SEP> (and) <SEP> Cetyl <SEP> Palmitate <tb> Eumulgin <SEP> B1---1, <SEP> 0- Ceteareth- 12 <tb> Lameform# <SEP> TGI <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 4.0 <SEP> Polyglyceryl-3 <SEP> Isostearate <tb> Dehymuls# <SEP> PGPH <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 4, <SEP> 0 <tb> Polyglyceryl-2 <SEP> Dipolyhydroxystearate <tb> Monomuls# <SEP> 90- O <SEP> 18 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> Glyceryl <SEP> Oleate <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> HE <SEP> - <SEP > - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 2, <SEP> 0 <tb> PEG-7 <SEP> Glyceryl <SEP> Cocoate <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> OE <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 6,0 <tb> Dicaprylyl <SEP> Ether <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> PGL <SEP> - <SEP > - <SEP> - <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 10.0 <SEP> 9.0 <tb> Hexyldecanol <SEP> (and) <SEP> Hexyldecyl <SEP> Laurate <tb> étiole < SEP> SN <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> Cetearyl <SEP> Isononanoate <tb> Cetiol# <SEP> V < SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0-- Decyl <SEP> Oleate <tb> Myritol# <SEP> 318 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5.0 <SEP> 5.0 <tb> Coco <SEP> Caprylate <SEP> Caprate <tb> Bees <SEP> Wax <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP > - <SEP> 7.0 <SEP> 5 <SEP> 0 <tb> Nutrilan# <SEP> Elastin <SEP> E20 <SEP> 2.0 <SEP> 2, <SEP> 0 <SEP> - <SEP > - <SEP> - <SEP> H <SEP> drol <SEP> zed <SEP> elastin <tb> preparation <SEP> according to <SEP> example <SEP> 16 <SEP> 0, <SEP> 1 <tb > Preparation <SEP> according to <SEP> Example <SEP> 17 <SEP> 1 <tb> octulose <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> arbutin < SEP>0,<SEP>1 <tb>tamarinds <SEP>xyloglucans <SEP>0,<SEP>1 <tb>abscisic acid0,<SEP>1 <tb>nutrilane <SEP>I-50 <SEP>2,< SEP> 0 <tb> H <SEP> drol <SEP> zed <SEP> Colla <SEP> en <tb> Gluadin&commat; <SEP> AGP-0, <SEP> 5 Hydrolyzed <SEP> Wheat <SEP> Gluten <tb> Gluadin# <SEP> WK <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 0, <SEP> 5 <SEP> 0.5 <tb> Sodium <SEP> Coco <SEP> Hydrolyzed <SEP> Wheat <SEP> Protein <tb> Highcareen&commat; <SEP> GS <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> Betaglucan <tb> Hydagen®< SEP> CMF <SEP> 1, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> Chitosan <tb> Magnesium <SEP> sulfates <SEP> hepta <SEP> hydrates <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.0 <tb> glycerol <SEP> (86 < SEP> wt% <SEP> ig) <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 3.0 <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 5, <SEP> 0 <SEP> 3, <SEP> 0 <tb> (7,8) soft cream, (9,10) moisturizing emulsion, (11,12) night cream
    

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing extracts of so-called resurrection plants.

2. Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized in that they contain extracts of Resurrection plants include selected from the botanical families Poacea, Scrophulariacea, Myrothamnacea and Velloziacea.

3. Preparations according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they contain extracts of resurrection plants, which are selected from the Group of botanical geni Myrothamnus, Sporobolus, Craterostigma, Xerophyta, Boea, Ramonda, Haberlea, Chamaegigas and Selaginella.

4. Preparations as claimed in at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain extracts of protein-rich, angiosperms or gymnosperms plants or microorganisms.

5. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain extracts which have effective levels of osmolytes, terpenes, Have antioxidants and / or phytohormones.

6. Preparations according to claim 4, characterized in that they as osmolytes octulose, sucrose, glucose, trehalose, fructose, glucosyl-9-glycerol, xyloglucans and/or methyl ester of pectin.

7. Preparations according to claim 4, characterized in that they contain carvones and/or perillic alcohol as terpenes.

8. Preparations according to claim 4, characterized in that they contain arbutin, anthocyanins, superoxide dismutase, glutathione reductase and/or ascorbate peroxidase as antioxidants.

9. Preparations according to claim 4, characterized in that as phytohormone contain abscisic acid.

10. Preparations as claimed in at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they contain 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the amount of solids and the final preparation of the extracts.

11. Use of extracts from resurrection plants for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations.

12. Use of extracts from resurrection plants as active ingredients for regulating the water balance in the skin.

13. Use of extracts from resurrection plants as active ingredients to strengthen cell metabolism to ward off harmful environmental influences.

14. Use of extracts from resurrection plants as active substances for the protection of skin and hair against damage by UV radiation.

15. Use of extracts from resurrection plants as active ingredients to protect skin and hair from free radicals.

16. Use of extracts from resurrection plants as active ingredients to protect the macromolecules in the skin cells and cell membranes.

16. Use of octulose for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations.

17. Use of arbutin for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.

18. Use of abscisic acid for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations.