EP1311234A2 - Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau - Google Patents

Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau

Info

Publication number
EP1311234A2
EP1311234A2 EP01980254A EP01980254A EP1311234A2 EP 1311234 A2 EP1311234 A2 EP 1311234A2 EP 01980254 A EP01980254 A EP 01980254A EP 01980254 A EP01980254 A EP 01980254A EP 1311234 A2 EP1311234 A2 EP 1311234A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
substances
group
ages
tanning
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01980254A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Blatt
Werner Berens
Franz STÄB
Rainer Wolber
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1311234A2 publication Critical patent/EP1311234A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to substances for inducing and intensifying the tanning mechanisms of the skin and to cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing the same.
  • tanning with ultraviolet radiation can result in considerable damage to the skin if the effect is too long or a certain dose is exceeded.
  • ⁇ 3rd degree cell damage occur on deep cell damage, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis are shed over a large area.
  • the 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis.
  • the formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength.
  • the erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.
  • UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm.
  • UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. annual and Time of day or latitude)
  • the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, irrespective of the time of year, time of day or geographical factors.
  • the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis, while about 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the homolayer.
  • UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin.
  • UV-B radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.
  • UV-A radiation with high irradiance.
  • the UV-A irradiance generated is usually a factor of 3 to 5 higher, in some cases even up to a factor of 10.
  • a small proportion of UV-B rays are emitted.
  • the radiation spectrum is therefore in usually cheaper in terms of tanning and less worrying about the sunburn risk than the natural spectrum of the sun.
  • make-up or make-up preparations The easiest way to give your skin a brown hue is to apply appropriately colored make-up or make-up preparations. However, only those parts of the body that are covered by the colored preparations are of course stained. A disadvantage of the make-up is therefore the time-consuming procedure of applying. Another disadvantage is that they rub off heavily on textiles such as shirt collars or blouses. In addition, the different dyes can have different allergenic potency and can even be irritating to the skin.
  • a further possibility for artificial tanning is to apply substances to the skin which undergo a chemical color reaction with the hom layer, which results in an artificial tanning of the uppermost layers of the skin.
  • the most important and still the most frequently used active ingredient in self-tanning preparations is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a trivalent sugar found in the human body. DHA reacts with the proteins and amino acids of the homolayer, whereby the color tone is via a The resulting color and the intensity of the discoloration depend on the type of amino compounds and are also influenced, for example, by the preparation and the thickness of the hom layer.
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • This type of tanning is a purely chemical reaction of the hom layer. Although this achieves a certain cosmetic result, the tan does quite well quickly and is without any protective function for the skin. This tanning is completely independent of the melanocytes of the skin, which bring about the natural tanning of the skin through the pigment melanin they form.
  • Another type of artificial tanning which is also completely independent of UV light, can be brought about by the hormones, which are also released in the body as a result of (natural) UV radiation and ultimately stimulate the melanocytes to synthesize melanin.
  • proopiomelanocortin POMC
  • aMSH proopiomelanocortin
  • synthetic variants such as NDP
  • these hormones can generally bring about a tan, their use in cosmetics is forbidden, since they are clearly pharmacologically active substances (hormones) that should not be used widely without medical indication.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art and to find substances for tanning the skin, the use of which gives the skin a tanned appearance even without the action of sun rays and which intensify the existing natural tanning of the skin and the let natural skin tanning last longer.
  • these substances should be harmless to health, non-irritating and easy to handle and the resulting shade should correspond to the natural healthy skin color.
  • the tan obtained should be lightfast and not washable.
  • Another object of the present invention was to find cosmetic or dermatological preparations for tanning the skin. It was surprising and the solution to these problems is that the disadvantages of the prior art are remedied by the use of one or more substances, which are selected from the group of AGEs and / or their precursors, for tanning the skin.
  • AGE comes from the English term "Advanced Glycosylation Endproducts”. AGEs in the sense of the present invention can be obtained, for example, according to the following (exemplary) reaction equation:
  • Advantageous starting materials (I) carry an aldehyde group (CHO) and are selected, for example, from the group of the sugars (aldoses, eg triosen, tetrosen, pentoses, hexoses and the like such as glucose, galactose, mannose etc.).
  • aldehyde group CHO
  • sugars aldoses, eg triosen, tetrosen, pentoses, hexoses and the like such as glucose, galactose, mannose etc.
  • Advantageous starting materials (II) have a free amino group and are selected, for example, from the group of amino acids and the group of peptides with terminal amino groups, in particular lysine, hydroxylysine, arginine, tryptophan and histidine are advantageous.
  • the free amino group can also advantageously come from N-terminal ends of proteins and peptides, furthermore also advantageously Sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine and their homologues with differently long (unsaturated) acyl residues.
  • AGEs according to the invention preferably contain at least one nitrogen-containing five and / or six ring.
  • FFI which is characterized by the following structural formula, is advantageous in the sense of the present invention:
  • AFGP which is characterized by the following structural formula:
  • the radical R originates, for example, from proteins and peptides; accordingly, these are preferably peptide, amino acid or protein residues which can be attached terminally or laterally to the nitrogen atom.
  • R is also advantageously selected, for example, from the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 35 carbon atoms.
  • pentosidine which is characterized by the following structural formula:
  • A2E which is characterized by the following structural formula, is also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention:
  • the structural formulas shown are of course not intended to limit the invention to certain isomers of the substances according to the invention. Rather, isomers or isomer mixtures not shown are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the tanning substances in the sense of the present invention are distinguished, inter alia, by the fact that, after topical application, they induce the formation of skin's own pigments in the skin, increase the melanin synthesis and in this way produce an increased tanning of the skin. They are harmless to health, non-irritating and easy to use, and the resulting shade naturally corresponds to that of the natural, healthy skin color.
  • the tan obtained is - since it corresponds to the natural tanning - lightfast and not washable.
  • the substances according to the invention also surprisingly intensify the tanning of already tanned skin and furthermore delay the bleaching of tanned skin.
  • Another advantage of the present invention results from the protective properties of natural melanin formed in the skin.
  • these functions of melanin are also very important for the skin, i.a. regarding homeostasis, skin aging prevention and the like:
  • Melanin acts as a natural UV filter to protect against damaging UV rays and also as an antioxidant to protect against reactive oxygen species (oxidative stress), which can occur due to sun exposure, among other things.
  • the substances according to the invention are particularly suitable as tanning agents in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • the present invention therefore also relates to cosmetic or dermatological formulations, characterized in that they contain at least one substance which is selected from the group of AGEs and / or their precursors.
  • the substances according to the invention and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing them induce the formation of skin's own pigments in the skin, intensify the existing natural and / or artificial tanning of the skin and let the skin tan last longer.
  • the formulations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations which are distinguished by a uniform coloring effect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the formulations according to the invention would be easier to formulate, give the skin a naturally tanned appearance faster and better, make the skin tan last longer, work better than moisturizing preparations, better promote smoothing of the skin distinguish better care effect, ⁇ have better sensory properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be drawn into the skin, and ⁇ would offer better / risk-free protection of the skin (against UV radiation) than the preparations of the prior art. In addition, the formulations according to the invention surprisingly have no hormone effects.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological formulations within the meaning of the present invention can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O-, O / W-, W / O / W- or O / W / O- Emulsions are present.
  • Such emulsions can preferably also be a microemulsion, a Pickering emulsion or a sprayable emulsion.
  • the formulations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of oil-free preparations, such as gels, or as anhydrous preparations.
  • the content of one or more substances from the group of AGEs and / or their precursors in the cosmetic or dermatological formulation is between 0.0001 and 30% by weight, particularly advantageously between 0.01 and 10% by weight , especially between 0.1 and 2% by weight, each based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • formulations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously also contain dihydroxyacetone or nut extracts and other substances which are intended to maintain or produce the tan.
  • the formulations according to the invention can advantageously, although not necessarily, also be used in combination with UV radiation - be it with artificially produced or natural ultraviolet rays - for example to increase natural tanning or to achieve a particularly long-lasting tanning.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be, for. B. before, after or during the action of UV rays on the skin, for example in the form of a presun, a sunscreen or an aftersun formulation.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used in particular for the treatment and care of the skin and / or hair, as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics or as a sunscreen or so-called pre- or after-preparation.
  • the formulations according to the invention can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, face cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickening agents, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents and / or silicone derivatives as well as moisturizers.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the homolayer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water joss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, caroline (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • Buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid , Lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • B ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. .
  • Vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoic resin rutinic acid and its derivatives
  • ⁇ -glycosyl rutin ferulic acid
  • furfurylidene glucitol carnosine
  • butylated hydroxytoluene butylated hydroxyaniso
  • northern dihydrogihajacetic acid droguajaretic acid trihydroxybutyrophenone
  • uric acid and its derivatives mannose and its derivatives
  • zinc and its derivatives e.g. ZnO, ZnSO 4
  • selenium and its derivatives e.g.
  • stilbenes and their derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide , Trans-stilbene oxide
  • derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • cosmetic or dermatological formulations within the meaning of the present invention contain enzymes or enzyme mimics which act as enzymatic antioxidants, such as. B. superoxide dismutases, catalases, peroxides, selenoproteins.
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or caroline or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such.
  • Esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids lower
  • the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C-atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • C 12 are particularly advantageous. 15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C 12 -i 5 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • silicone oils are also beneficial in the sense to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, e.g.
  • isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum and / or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • thickeners which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum and / or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance.
  • Such formulations may also contain one or more inorganic pigments as UV filter substances.
  • Inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • An additional content of stabilizing titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide particles can of course also be advantageous, but is not necessary in the sense of the present invention.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5. is up to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation protect. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimi- dazyl) -3,3 '-5,5' -tetrasulfonklare-bis-sodium salt and the 1, 4-di (2-oxo-10- Sulfo-3-boronylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4,4 di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is designated.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris- benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl tria- zone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL®
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, which is also referred to as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • ⁇ esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539th

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'au moins une substance, choisie dans le groupe des produits finaux de la glycosylation avancée (AGE) et/ou de leurs précurseurs, pour le bronzage de la peau et des formulations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant de telles substances.
EP01980254A 2000-08-24 2001-08-21 Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau Withdrawn EP1311234A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10041482 2000-08-24
DE10041482A DE10041482A1 (de) 2000-08-24 2000-08-24 Substanzen zur Induktion und Intensivierung der Bräunungsmechanismen der Haut und kosmetische oder dermatologische Formulierungen dieselben enthaltend
PCT/EP2001/009658 WO2002015870A2 (fr) 2000-08-24 2001-08-21 Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau et formulations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant ces substances

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1311234A2 true EP1311234A2 (fr) 2003-05-21

Family

ID=7653579

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP01980254A Withdrawn EP1311234A2 (fr) 2000-08-24 2001-08-21 Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20040076597A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1311234A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE10041482A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2002015870A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10160966A1 (de) * 2001-12-12 2003-06-26 Beiersdorf Ag Melaninbildendes Haarfärbungsprodukt
EP1510211A1 (fr) * 2003-08-26 2005-03-02 Lynkeus Biotech GmbH Composition pharmaceutique comprenant n-retinyl-n-retinylidene ethanolamine (a2e), isoformes ou derives
DE10341654A1 (de) * 2003-09-08 2005-04-07 Beiersdorf Ag Mittel zur Anwendung auf der Haut und/oder dem Haar enthaltend 4-fach substituierte Cyclohexen-Verbindungen
US20080311058A1 (en) * 2007-06-18 2008-12-18 Connopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever Stable high internal phase emulsions and compositions comprising the same
DE102007032393A1 (de) * 2007-07-10 2009-01-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Advanced Glycation Endproducts als Wirkstoffe
US20090169615A1 (en) * 2007-12-26 2009-07-02 Pinsky Mark A Collagen Formulations for Improved Skin Care
DE102008059703A1 (de) 2008-12-01 2010-06-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Neue kosmetische Zusammensetzungen mit haarwuchsinhibierender Wirkung
DE102008059765A1 (de) 2008-12-01 2010-06-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Neue Deodorantien und Antitranspirantien mit haarwuchsinhibierender Wirkung
US8821839B2 (en) 2010-10-22 2014-09-02 Conopco, Inc. Compositions and methods for imparting a sunless tan with a vicinal diamine
US8398959B2 (en) 2010-12-06 2013-03-19 Conopco, Inc. Compositions and methods for imparting a sunless tan with functionalized adjuvants
EP2760546B1 (fr) 2011-09-26 2017-09-20 Unilever Plc. Composition capillaire
US8961942B2 (en) 2011-12-13 2015-02-24 Conopco, Inc. Sunless tanning compositions with adjuvants comprising sulfur comprising moieties
DE102014202704A1 (de) * 2014-02-14 2015-08-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Decalinderivaten und Verwendung von Decalinderivaten zur Bräunung der Haut

Family Cites Families (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5288615A (en) * 1984-03-19 1994-02-22 The Rockefeller University Methods for preparing proteins of altered structure
US5700447A (en) * 1992-05-21 1997-12-23 The Picowder Institute For Medical Research Methods and materials for the diagnosis and treatment of conditions such as stroke
US5733933A (en) * 1984-03-19 1998-03-31 The Picower Institute For Medical Research Methods and materials for the diagnosis and treatment of conditions such as stroke
US5801200A (en) * 1984-03-19 1998-09-01 The Picower Institute For Medical Research Methods and materials for the diagnosis and treatment of conditions such as stroke
US5869534A (en) * 1992-05-21 1999-02-09 The Picower Institute For Medical Research Glycosylation of lipids and lipid-containing particles, and diagnostic and therapeutic methods and materials derived therefrom
US5733524A (en) * 1984-03-19 1998-03-31 The Picower Institute For Medical Research Methods and materials for the diagnosis and treatment of conditions such as stroke
US5017696A (en) * 1987-09-17 1991-05-21 The Rockefeller University Advanced glycosylation end products and associated methods
US5126442A (en) * 1987-09-17 1992-06-30 The Rockefeller University Advanced glycosylation endproducts and associated methods
AU609518B2 (en) * 1987-09-17 1991-05-02 Rockefeller University, The Advanced glycosylation endproducts and associated methods
US5374712A (en) * 1989-12-20 1994-12-20 Case Western Reserve University Imidazopyridinium compound and processes for isolating, identifying, and chemically synthesizing same
US5214138A (en) * 1989-12-20 1993-05-25 Case Western Reserve University Imidazopyridinium compound and processes for isolating, identifying, and chemically synthesizing same
US5480807A (en) * 1989-12-20 1996-01-02 Case Western Reserve University Process for assessing the biological age of a tissue

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO0215870A2 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2002015870A3 (fr) 2002-07-18
DE10041482A1 (de) 2002-03-07
WO2002015870A2 (fr) 2002-02-28
US20040076597A1 (en) 2004-04-22

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1129696A2 (fr) Stabilisation de composés sensibles à l'oxydation et au rayonnement UV
EP1127568A2 (fr) Formulations photoprotectrices cosmétiques et dermatologiques contenant des dérivés de benzotriazole et naphthalates d'alkyle
DE19756377A1 (de) Verwendung von C¶1¶¶8¶-¶3¶¶8¶-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearat zur Verstärkung der UV-A-Schutzleistung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Formulierungen
WO2002087517A2 (fr) Utilisation d'isoflavonoides dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques destinees a la prophylaxie et au traitement des peaux sensibles
EP1406585A2 (fr) Utilisation d'extraits de houblon et/ou de houblon et de malt dans des preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques pour prevenir et traiter des symptomes cutanes degeneratifs
WO2002015870A2 (fr) Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau et formulations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant ces substances
EP1180359A2 (fr) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques photoprotectrices contenant des dérivés de triazine substitués asymétriquement et des adipates de dialkyle
DE10122342A1 (de) Verwendung von Isoflavonen in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen
EP0904770B1 (fr) Utilisation d'oxydes amorphes aux rayons X pour renforcer le facteur de protection solaire et/ou la protection UV-A d'agents cosmetiques ou dermatologiques
EP0860164B1 (fr) Composition dermato-cosmétique pour la photoprotection contenant dérivés de la triazine et diesters de butylèneglycol
EP0935959B1 (fr) Utilisation de la cire d' abeilles pour augmenter l' indice de protection UVA des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques photoprotectrices
EP0887069B1 (fr) Utilisation de cire d'abeilles synthétique pour augmenter l'indice de protection des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques photoprotectrices
EP0887068B1 (fr) Utilisation de cire d'abeilles pour augmenter l'indice de protection des compositions cosmétiques et dermatologiques photoprotectrices
EP0826360B1 (fr) Utilisation des dérivés de dibenzoylmethane pour atteindre ou améliorer la solubilité des dérivés de triazine dans l'huile
EP0922447A2 (fr) Utilisation de C18-38 alkylhydroxystearoylstearates pour renforcer le facteur de protection à la lumière et/ou la protection contre les rayonnements UV-A des agents photoprotectifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques
EP1180360B1 (fr) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques photoprotectrices contenant des dérivés de triazine substitués asymétriquement et des carbonates de dialkyle
EP0824913A2 (fr) Utilisation de dérivés du camphre pour atteindre ou améliorer la solubilité des dérivés de triazine dans l'huile
EP1311233B1 (fr) Substances permettant d'induire et d'intensifier les mecanismes de bronzage de la peau et formulations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant ces substances
EP1062943B1 (fr) Compositions photoprotectices cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant du nitrure de bore et des filtres UV avec des groupements triazine
EP1055410B1 (fr) Formulations photoprotectrices cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant du nitrure de bore et du ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat et utilisation de nitrure de bore pour augmenter le facteur photoprotectif et/ou la protection contre le UV-A des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques photoprotectrices
DE19808066A1 (de) Verwendung von Lichtschutzfilterkombinationen gegen die Zersetzung von Dihydroxyaceton in kosmetischen Zubereitungen
DE10150412A1 (de) Verwendung einer oder mehreren Substanzen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Pyrimidine und Purine in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut
DE19830461A1 (de) Verwendung von Eisen-Titan-Mischoxiden zur Verstärkung der Lichtschutzleistung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Lichtschutzmittel
EP1166759A2 (fr) Utilisation de lécithines pour augmenter le facteur de la protection solaire et/ou de la protection contre les rayons UVA des compositions photoprotectrices cosmétiques ou dermatologiques
EP1142552A2 (fr) Compositions photoprotectrices cosmétiques et dermatologiques contenant des dérivés de triazine substitués asymétriquement et du propylène glycol dicaprylate dicaptrate

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20030218

AK Designated contracting states

Designated state(s): AT BE CH CY DE DK ES FI FR GB GR IE IT LI LU MC NL PT SE TR

17Q First examination report despatched

Effective date: 20030623

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20060516