Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

• composition in particular cosmetic, containing DHEA and an isoflavonoid
• the present invention relates to a composition containing DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, and at least one isoflavonoid, as well as to the use of said composition, in particular for preventing or treating signs of kinetic skin aging.
• DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone
• Exogenous DHEA administered topically or orally, is known for its ability to promote keratinization of the epidermis (JP-07 196 467) and to treat dry skin by increasing endogenous production and sebum secretion and by strengthening thus the barrier effect of the skin (US Pat. No. 4,496,556). It has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,843,932 the use of DHEA for remedying atrophy of the dermis by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue. It has also been described in US Pat. No. 5J36,537 the oral use of DHEA esters, in particular DHEA salicylate, to regulate the atrophy of the skin due to thinning or general degradation of the skin. dermis.
• the present invention therefore relates to a composition containing at least one compound chosen from: DHEA and / or a precursor or chemical or biological derivative thereof, characterized in that it also comprises at least one isoflavonoid.
• DHEA has the following formula (I):
• DHEA precursors is meant its biological precursors which are capable of transforming into DHEA during metabolism, as well as its chemical precursors which can transform into DHEA by exogenous chemical reaction.
• biological precursors are ⁇ 5-pregnenolone, 17 ⁇ -hydroxy pregnenolone and 17 ⁇ -hydroxy pregnenolone sulfate, without this list being limiting.
• chemical precursors are sapogenins such as diosgenin (or spirost-5-en-3-beta-ol), hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenin and sarsapogenin, as well as natural extracts thereof. containing, in particular fenugreek and Dioscorea extracts such as wild yam root or Wild Yam, without this list being exhaustive.
• DHEA derivatives is understood to mean both its biological derivatives and its chemical derivatives.
• biological derivatives there may be mentioned in particular ⁇ 5-androstene-3,17-diol and ⁇ 4-androstene-3,17-dione, without this list being limiting.
• chemical derivatives mention may in particular be made of DHEA salts, in particular water-soluble salts, such as DHEA sulfate.
• esters such as the esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and of DHEA described in particular in US Pat. No. 5J36,537 or the other esters such as salicylate, acetate, valerate (or n-heptanoate) and DHEA enanthate.
• DHEA derivatives DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate esters and DHEA amino acid esters
• DHEA amino acid esters DHEA carbamates, DHEA 2-hydroxy malonate esters and DHEA amino acid esters
• DHEA analogues The biological and chemical precursors and derivatives of DHEA will be designated below by "DHEA analogues”.
• the concentration of DHEA and / or precursors or derivatives in the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 0.0001% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .
• composition according to the present invention contains, in combination with DHEA or the above analog, at least one isoflavonoid.
• Isoflavonoids constitute a subclass of flavonoids, formed of a 3-phenyl chroman skeleton which may contain substituents. varied and different levels of oxidation. Unlike flavonoids, they are only found in a very limited number of plants.
• isoflavonoid groups together several classes of compounds among which mention may be made of isoflavones, isoflavanones, rotenoids, pterocarpans, isoflavanes, isoflavanes-3-enes, 3-arylcoumarins, 3-aryl-4-hydroxycoumarins, coumestanes, coumaronochromones, ⁇ -methyldeoxybenzoines or. 2-arylbenzofurans.
• isoflavonoids their methods of analysis and their sources, in chapter 5 "Isoflavonids" written by P. M. Dewick, in The Flavonoid, Harbone editor, pp. 125-157 (1988).
• the isoflavonoids suitable for use in the present invention can be of natural or synthetic origin.
• natural origin is meant the isoflavonoid in the pure state or in solution at different concentrations, obtained by different extraction processes from an element, generally a plant, of natural origin.
• synthetic origin we. means isoflavonoid in pure form or in solution at different concentrations, obtained by chemical synthesis.
• isoflavonoids of natural origin there may be mentioned: daidzin, genistin, daidzein, formonohetin, cuneatin, genistein, isoprunetin and prunetin, cajanin, orobol, pratensin, sandalwood, junipegenine A , glycitein, afrormosine, retusin, tectorigenin, irisolidone, jamaicin, and their analogs and metabolites.
• isoflavonoids their methods of analysis and their sources, reference may be made to P.M. Dewick, The Flavono ⁇ ds. Chapman and Hall, pp. 125-157 (1988).
• the isoflavonoid preferably represents from 10 "10 % to 10%, and preferably from 10 " 8 to 5%, of the total weight of the composition.
• the isoflavonoid is present in the form of a solution containing a plant extract, the skilled person will be able to adjust the amount of this solution in the composition according to the invention, so as to obtain the above ranges of isoflavonoid concentrations.
• Isoflavones are preferred for use in the present invention.
• this term is meant both the aglycone forms (daidzein, genistein, glyciteine) and the glycosylated forms (daidzine, genistin, glycitin) of isoflavones.
• isoflavones in the form of soybean extracts marketed by ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB® and by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY under the trade name Novasoy®.
• soybean extracts marketed by ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB® and by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY under the trade name Novasoy®.
• These extracts mainly contain isoflavones in glycosylated form, capable of being metabolized in the body to their aglycone forms, and in the majority, isoflavones aglycones.
• Isoflavones are in particular known as antioxidants, for their anti-radical and depigmenting properties, as well as for inhibiting the activity of the 'sebaceous glands (see in particular DE-44 32 947). They have also been described as agents to prevent signs of aging of the skin, including sagging skin and loss of radiance (JP 1-96106).
• isoflavonoids are all known to have an effect on hair repigmentation (US-5,639J85) and they are therefore capable of reinforcing the beneficial effect of DHEA on canities, already demonstrated by the Applicant.
• composition according to the invention can be in all dosage forms normally used for topical application to the skin, in particular in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple, of a silicone emulsion, a microemulsion or nanoemulsion, an aqueous or oily gel, a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase in the presence of spherules , these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.
• This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. or a gel. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a skin makeup product.
• the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matter.
• the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
• These adjuvants according to their nature, can be introduced in the fatty phase, in the aqueous phase, in the lipid vesicles and / or in the nanoparticles.
• These adjuvants, as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not harm the advantageous properties of DHEA or of the isoflavonoids according to the invention.
• the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fats, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration.
• the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are preferably present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• oils which can be used in the invention, oils and in particular mineral oils (petroleum jelly oil), oils of vegetable origin (oil) can be used.
• soybean oil oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers).
• Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, waxes and gums and in particular silicone gums can also be used as fats.
• emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60, for example; and their mixtures.
• fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate
• fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60, for example; and their mixtures.
• hydrophilic gelling agents mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, quote clays modified such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids and hydrophobic silica.
• carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers
• acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers
• polyacrylamides polysaccharides
• natural gums and clays and, as lipophilic gelling agents, quote clays modified such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids and hydrophobic silica.
• depigmentants and keratolytic and / or scaling agents can be used in particular.
• the active agents indicated above and / or DHEA or analogues and / or isoflavonoids according to the invention can be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres), so as to isolate them from each other in the composition.
• the composition can be adapted for oral administration.
• it can be in the form of syrups, suspensions, solutions, emulsions, granules, capsules or tablets, for example.
• the daily doses of DHEA or analogues administered orally can be between 1 and 100 mg / day, preferably between 25 and 75 mg / day.
• DHEA or the like is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount allowing its administration at a dose of between 50 and 100 mg / day, said dosage being carried out in one or more doses, with a unit dose of 50 mg. .
• composition according to the invention and / or the preparation obtained from it comprises an effective amount of DHEA or the like and isoflavonoid, sufficient to obtain the desired effect, and a physiologically acceptable medium.
• composition according to the invention finds in particular an application in the prevention and the treatment of the signs of skin aging, in particular of kinetic aging.
• the present invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition mentioned above for preventing or treating the signs of aging. skin, in particular kinetic aging.
• the composition according to the invention is thus preferably used:
• the present invention also relates to the use of the composition mentioned above for manufacturing a preparation intended to attenuate pigmentation spots.
• composition mentioned above for manufacturing a preparation intended for the treatment of canities.
• Example 1 composition for topical application
• phase A1, A2 and B are prepared separately by mixing their constituents under hot conditions, with stirring. Phases A1 and A2 are mixed hot, then phase B is added to them. The mixture thus obtained is transferred to a high pressure homogenizer where it is then subjected to three passages at 600 bars before incorporation of phase C.
• This composition can be used in twice-daily applications to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, the papery appearance of the skin, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion.
• Example 2 composition for topical application
• Phase D Demineralized water 1 50% Preservative 0.30%
• phase A1 the constituents of phase A1 are mixed at 70 ° C., with stirring.
• the constituents of phases A2 and B are mixed and heated to 70 ° C. in a water bath, then the mixture is emulsified in phase A1 at the same temperature, with stirring at 600 rpm, for approximately two minutes.
• Phase C is prepared at room temperature, by dissolving triethanolamine in water, with magnetic stirring, then it is added at about 800 rpm in the above mixture which is then allowed to cool.
• Phase D is prepared in the same way as the phase C and added to the cooled mixture below 50 ° C. The composition is then allowed to cool to room temperature.
• This composition can be used in twice-daily applications to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, the papery appearance of the skin, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion.
• a lotion is conventionally prepared by mixing the following constituents:
• This lotion can be used to reduce pigment spots on the hands and Vietnameselleté.
• Soft capsules are prepared, conventionally for those skilled in the art, having the following composition:
• Soy extract available under the name Novasoy® from AMD (corresponding to approximately 50 mg of isoflavones) 120 mg

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Biotechnology (AREA)
• Microbiology (AREA)
• Mycology (AREA)
• Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)

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• 2000
  • 2000-07-13 FR FR0009220A patent/FR2811562B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2001
  • 2001-06-08 AU AU2001266132A patent/AU2001266132A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-06-08 EP EP01943591A patent/EP1303250A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2001-06-08 WO PCT/FR2001/001787 patent/WO2002005764A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation

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