EP1286603A1

EP1286603A1 - Lingerie articles produced from cylindrical knitting comprising retaining characteristics

Info

Publication number: EP1286603A1
Application number: EP01940646A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Pierre-Jean Querquant
Original assignee: Playtex Apparel Inc
Current assignee: Hillshire Brands Co
Priority date: 2000-06-09
Filing date: 2001-05-30
Publication date: 2003-03-05
Anticipated expiration: 2021-05-30
Also published as: SK2602002A3; AU767025B2; DE60112745D1; NZ517083A; BR0106716A; PL352156A1; AU7416301A; US6550286B2; WO2001093708A1; KR20020027510A; CN1195427C; US20020155786A1; CZ2002610A3; HK1050985A1; ZA200201445B; ES2247125T3; MA25491A1; CA2380944A1; ATE301941T1; EP1286603B1

Abstract

The invention concerns lingerie articles comprising at least a moulded region to create a retaining and supporting volume of at least a curved part of the human body, made from a tubular knitted fabric (1) formed with a first extensible and thermoformable material, provided with a ribbing (2) which forms one of the edges of said article elastically enclosing the body, the final shape of the article being produced by cuts performed in the tubular knitted fabric from the free end opposite the ribbing. The invention is characterised in that each moulded volume region is lined by internal bonding of a least a lining (9) consisting of a second extensible heat-activated material whereof one surface is coated with an adhesive material capable of being heat-activated, the materials of the knitted fabric and of the lining having either thermoformed or elastic percent elongation, and the adhesive having an activating temperature such that they enable deformation induced by hot moulding of the moulded regions to provide them with volume without affecting the heat-bonded linkage, said first (1) and second (9) materials preserving their supporting and retaining capacity after moulding.

Description

An article of lingerie produced from a cylindrical knitting with holding characteristics.

The present invention relates to an article of support lingerie comprising at least one region molded so as to create a volume of support and support for at least one part of the human body.

The articles concerned are of course mainly bras and panties, of which respectively the cups and the part covering the buttocks - may have essentially mechanical characteristics aimed at enabling them to support or even lift the breasts and buttocks of the users.

In the lingerie sector, the permanent challenge to be met by manufacturers is twofold: ensuring maximum comfort on the one hand while preserving on the other hand an optimal ability to support and maintain. Historically, the problem first arose for bras, the idea of molding and thus supporting the buttocks by means of the very structure of the pants, according to an approach similar to that which is applied to the breasts, being more recent.

Traditionally, lingerie items have been made using cut elements, then sewn together, especially in areas supposed to have a three-dimensional volume like the cups of bras. To improve wearing comfort, it has been imagined to reduce as much as possible the seams which form extra thicknesses which can irritate the skin in the contact zone. Bonding, or even welding, technologies have therefore been developed and applied to this field in order to reduce or even eliminate the existence of these seams.

Document EP 0 809 945 discloses, for example, a bra made of a material comprising hot-melt fibers, the various components of the bra made of this material being joined together by heat sealing to give its final shape to said bra. . There is certainly no stitching, but the plurality of welding zones, in particular in the lower part of the bra surrounding the bust, nevertheless implies the existence of reliefs which are elastically pressed against the skin, clearly influencing the comfort of Harbor. To overcome this drawback, brassieres whose periphery is in one piece, produced by tubular knitting, have been developed. In reality, it is rather bras without cups for the breasts, intended for women with a small chest, or for sporting purpose and compressing the breasts rather than supporting them. Similarly, panties made by knitting tubular do not have means to support / raise the buttocks, but they achieve good peripheral compression.

The characteristics of support and adaptability to different sizes of bust, when there is no sewing of several pieces to give a volume shape to the cups, are made using textile fibers that are both elastic and whose elongation is editable. For example, thermoformable fibers are used to be able to heat mold the cups or the gluteal areas, and thus make them take a three-dimensional configuration capable of receiving the breasts or the buttocks. However, the mere aptitude for forming the fibers is not sufficient because it is also necessary to provide mechanical resistance which is essential for supporting and maintaining these parts of the body. This mechanical behavior should also generally not only be provided in the sole support area of the buttocks or breasts, but also according to a distribution on the lingerie article which takes account of the daily stresses exerted on the different parts of the article. Thus, it may be necessary to preserve a certain hold in the dorsal tabs of a bra, also stressed when the bust of the user moves.

It is also important to ensure resistance to washing, sometimes carried out at a high temperature, which can have an influence on the durability of the mechanical characteristics of the fibers.

This is why it is preferable to provide a doubling of fabrics, at least in certain zones, doubling which must of course be subject to the criteria / limitations mentioned above, in particular of resistance and elasticity, and which it must in particular not be attached to the external fabric by seams, but must where appropriate have a capacity for controlled extension, etc. This is the essential object of the invention.

In general, this relates, as indicated above, to a support lingerie article comprising at least one region molded so as to create a volume for maintaining and supporting at least one protruding part of the human body, made from a tubular knit formed of a first extensible and thermoformable material, provided with a ribbed edge which constitutes one of the edges of said article elastically surrounding the body, the final shape of the lingerie article being produced by means of cutouts made in the tubular knit from the free edge opposite the ribbed edge, characterized in that each molded volume region is doubled by internal bonding of at least one lining made of a second extensible and thermoformable material of which one face is coated with a material heat-activatable adhesive, the knitting and lining materials having coefficients on the one hand of elongation either by thermoforming or elastic, and the adhesive having on the other hand an activation temperature such that they allow the deformation induced by a hot molding of the molded regions to give them a volume without the thermobonded bond being affected, said first and second material retaining their ability to support and maintain after molding.

The articles of the invention not only offer maximum comfort, due to the use of a tubular knit and glued connections, but also bust-holding properties which allow, for example, the production of bras for all breasts, including larger ones requiring cups, for example size E or F.

The holding characteristics are certainly linked to the double thickness of textile material, but they result above all from a sharp choice of materials both for the two textile layers and for the glue, meeting the requirements of mechanical strength over time and in space, as well as manufacturing issues.

Thus, it is essential that during the thermoforming the two textile layers, while remaining glued to each other, react in a compatible manner in terms of elongation. The same remark can be made with regard to the elastic elongation, therefore retractable, in the daily use of the product. According to tests, the elongation coefficients of the materials used for knitting and the lining must have a differential of between 0 and 140% and each material must be able to undergo an elongation greater than or equal to 40%. This is the condition for good mechanical strength, especially during molding. In this area, elongation is defined as being the percentage of elongation and deformation of the material compared to its state of rest, caused by a linear force of 3N per centimeter.

If the above values are not observed, there is a risk of slipping of one of the materials relative to the other and consequently of breaking of the adhesive / textile cohesion during molding, causing the two materials to come off.

Regarding the criteria for selecting the appropriate materials, it should be noted that materials which allow excessive lengthening are excluded, since they certainly allow a correct molding operation to be carried out, but they do not provide any subsequent mechanical strength necessary for maintaining breasts or buttocks.

In fact, according to an experimental result, the first and second materials are made of a mixture of fibers comprising at least 7% of synthetic fibers. In particular, polyester fibers are adequate. We can perfectly mix synthetic fibers with an elongation coefficient with natural cotton-type fibers that are not or not very stretchy: these are the links created by the stitches that allow the fabric to be lengthened if the stretchy fibers are arranged and oriented correctly in said meshes.

Preferably, said first and second material are composed of a mixture of polyamide and elastane.

This mixture allows an appropriate elastic elongation and thermoforming and offers mechanical resistance conferring a correct hold on the product both in duration and spatially.

One of the technical developments essential to the invention of course relates to the adhesive material, without which the attachment of a lining is not possible. The cohesion of the two textile layers must be kept hot during molding, which leads in principle to a definitive stretching of certain fibers, and cold when the product is elastically stressed. In addition, this cohesion must not be altered by successive washes, even at high temperature.

Numerous researches and tests have shown that the adhesive material can be chosen either from polyamides or from polyurethane adhesives. The selection is made in particular on the criterion of the activation temperature of the adhesive, which should in principle not be disturbed by the hot molding operation, which is carried out at a temperature between 175 ° C and 195 ° C. .

More precisely, according to one possibility, said adhesive material consists of a mixture of copolyamides whose activation temperature is between 165 ° C. and 195 ° C.

In the case of polyurethane, the activation temperature is between 185 ° C and 195 ° C.

Tests on materials with a lower activation temperature, for example of the order of 140 ° C. to 150 ° C., or even up to 165 ° C., have caused problems of peeling since the adhesive dissociates from the supports during molding. .

In addition to these temperature problems, the choice of adhesive material depends on the cohesiveness with the materials used for the textile layers. The mixture of copolyamide chosen, as well as the polyurethane have good aptitudes in this regard. It should also be noted that the adhesive material based on copolyamides is arranged on one face of the lining in the form of dots forming repeating patterns. This method of deposition is doubly advantageous in that it does not thicken the lining and allows it to retain its breathability. In the case of a polyurethane adhesive, more suitable for a mold shape more pointed, the glue is placed on the face of the lining in the form of a continuous film.

According to a preferred application, the invention relates to a bra, consequently made from a tubular knit provided with a ribbed edge forming the lower basque surrounding the bust of said bra, the region of the cups being doubled by gluing. internal breastplate and molded to the shape of the breasts.

The term “cup region” means, of course, the interior thereof, as well as their immediate periphery and preferably the zone which connects them. It also has a center, that is to say a textile piece with a triangular shape made of inextensible material, inserted between said plastron and the knitted fabric in the area between the cups. This center, which stiffens the part located between the breasts, participates in the maintenance function by preventing a particularly horizontal deformation of the between breasts. Preferably, one face of said center is coated with an adhesive material allowing it to be bonded against the knitted fabric. Said adhesive material is, more preferably, identical to that which operates the bonding of the bib and the knitted fabric.

For the mounting of this stiffening part, one benefits from the same advantages as during the doubling by the plastron, that is to say no seam whose extra thicknesses can irritate, a deposit of glue which lets the material breathe etc.

According to a possible configuration, the bra of the invention is also designed so that each cup has a frame inserted in a housing disposed between the plastron and the knitted fabric, said housing defining the lower contour of the cup.

More specifically, said housing consists of a seamless textile tube with a shape corresponding to that of the frame, with a very high density of threads and sewn onto the plastron.

The fact that the strap thus produced is sewn on the glued side of the faceplate means that the seams are not visible on the right side of the product. There is therefore less extra thickness at the strap, thanks to the lining of the invention, and the frame is less perceived by the user. This configuration is therefore extremely advantageous since it appreciably increases comfort while providing optimized support due to the presence of the frame.

In addition to the bra, the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit made of a first extensible and thermoformable material, provided with a ribbed edge forming the lower basque of the support. -throat, characterized by the following stages: tracing the upper contours of the bra during tubular knitting by using a mesh of different texture for said contours; bonding of an internal lining in a second extensible and thermoformable material in the region of the cups, by hot pressing at a temperature between 165 ° C and 195 ° C; hot molding of the cups at a temperature between 175 ° C and 195 ° C; cutting the bra from the contours defined on the tubular knit; - securing of the front and rear portions of the shoulder straps as cut.

The model of the bra is therefore drawn on the tubular knitting during knitting, which considerably facilitates the subsequent cutting operations making it possible to achieve the final shape of the product. According to one possibility, the upper contours of the bra are hemmed and sewn in an elasticization operation. It is in fact essentially the contours of the suspenders, the width of which is then restricted, thus giving said suspenders a more discreet appearance.

For practical reasons facilitating manufacturing, the above steps of which can then be implemented flat (gluing, molding), the tubular base is sectioned at the dorsal junction, dorsal tabs being added and provided with a system of stapling.

In the method of the invention, to obtain a product as described above, the lining is a plastron, the face of which is glued to the knitted fabric, is previously coated with a triangular-shaped center made of an inextensible textile material placed in the area between the cups. This center is itself previously coated with a layer of adhesive material on its face not glued to the plastron. Finally, for underwired bras, according to an additional step to be integrated into the process, tubes of tubular textile material without seams are sewn against the face of the lining to be glued against the knitted fabric, said tubes being provided for housing delimiting underwires. the lower outline of the hat.

The present invention does not, however, only apply to bras: it also relates to panties, therefore also made from a tubular knit having a ribbed edge surrounding the waist of the body, and characterized in that that the buttock region is reinforced by internal bonding of at least one lining, and molded to the shape of the buttocks. The problems posed by panties are generally the same as for bras, with a priori lower mechanical stresses.

In this case, the amplitude of the molding, often less important than for deep cup bras, requires a localized lining at the buttocks, which can be differentiated at the molding, and at their immediate periphery.

The invention will now be described in more detail, in particular with reference to the appended figures, for which: - Figure 1 shows a perspective view of a tubular knit on which the contours of a bra are drawn;

- Figure 2 shows a bib to be glued at the level of the outline of the cups on the knitted fabric of Figure 1;

- Figure 3 illustrates the bonding of said plastron in the area of the cups, on a knitted fabric cut along a director of cylindrical knitting and laid flat;

- Figure 4 shows a completed bra; and

- Figure 5 shows a tubular knitted fabric which shows the outline of a panty.

Referring to Figure 1, the tubular knit (1) has a ribbed edge (2) subsequently forming the basque of the bra (see Figure 4), which is perfectly elastic because it is a back mesh mesh (false ribbing) directly made by the knitting machine. It is therefore possible to adjust the

“Nervousness” of the ribbing, that is to say the rendering of elasticity.

A particular mesh makes it possible to trace the upper contour of the bra, with the cups (3, 4), the front parts of the straps (5, 6), and their rear parts (7, 8) which practically meet at the level of the ribbing (2).

FIG. 2 shows the plastron (9) or lining on which textile tubes (10, 11) of small thickness have been sewn, said tubes (10, 11) themselves not comprising a seam to avoid any excess thickness liable to irritate the skin of the breasts. These tubes are made of fine wire, with a very dense mesh preventing the reinforcement which is inserted there (not shown) from coming out between the meshes. A center (12), an inextensible piece of fabric with a triangular appearance, is glued to the face presenting the textile tubes (10, 11) housing the reinforcements at the level of the entrance. According to one possibility, the knitting is cut at the level where the back straps

(7, 8) meet, and it is treated flat (see Figure 3) for bonding the faceplate (9). This is glued so that the textile tubes (10, 11) housing the reinforcements on the one hand, and the center (12) on the other hand, are arranged between the faceplate (9) and the knitted fabric (1) . Referring to Figure 4, the bra formed has been elasticated at the edges of the straps (5, 7; 6, 8), which have been secured by any means known in (13, 14). Likewise, dorsal tabs (15, 16) with means for fixing to one another have been fixed to the knitted fabric (1). The fixing means can be gluing, welding, sewing, etc.

Finally, Figure 5 shows a tubular knit (20) on which a mesh different from the rest of the knit (20) draws the outline (21) of pants. In this case the side edge (22) is placed at the top, and encloses the size of the user. Depending on the case, the part located in the crotch can also be made of a different mesh, and / or of a different material, for reasons relating for example to hygiene, comfort, etc.

The above description is for illustrative purposes only, and cannot be considered as limiting the invention. On the contrary, it encompasses variants of forms and ways which are within the reach of those skilled in the art.

Claims

1. An article of support lingerie comprising at least one region molded so as to create a volume for maintaining and supporting at least one protruding part of the human body, made from a tubular knit formed from a first extensible material and thermoformable, provided with a ribbed edge which constitutes one of the edges of said article elastically surrounding the body, the final shape of the lingerie article being produced by means of cuts made in the tubular knit from the free edge opposite to the ribbing, characterized in that each molded volume region is lined by internal bonding of at least one liner made of a second extensible and thermoformable material, one face of which is coated with a heat-activatable adhesive material, the knitting and lining having on the one hand elongation coefficients either by thermoforming or elastic, and the adhesive having on the other hand an activation temperature such that 'They allow the deformation induced by a hot molding of the molded regions to give them a volume without the thermobonded connection being affected, said first and second material retaining their ability to support and maintain after molding.

2. An article of support lingerie made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the elongation coefficients of the materials used for knitting and the lining have a differential of between 0 and 140% and in that that each material has an elongation greater than or equal to 40%.

3. Lingerie article of maintenance made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first and the second material consist of a mixture of fibers comprising at least 7% of synthetic fibers.

4. article of maintenance lingerie made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said synthetic fibers are made of polyester.

5. article of maintenance lingerie made from a tubular knit according to claim 3, characterized in that the first and second material are composed of a mixture of polyamide and elastane.

6. article of maintenance lingerie made from a tubular knit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the adhesive material is chosen from polyamides.

7. article of maintenance lingerie made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said adhesive material consists of a mixture of copolyamides whose activation temperature is between 165 ° C and 195 ° C.

8. An article of support lingerie made from a tubular knit according to one of claims 6 and 7, characterized in that the adhesive material is arranged on one face of the lining in the form of dots forming repeating patterns.

9. article of maintenance lingerie made from a tubular knit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the adhesive material is a polyurethane glue whose activation temperature is between 185 ° C and 195 ° vs.

10. An article of support lingerie made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the adhesive material is arranged on one face of the lining in the form of a continuous film.

11. Bra made from a tubular knitted fabric provided with a ribbed edge forming the lower basque surrounding the bust of said bra according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the region of the cups is doubled by internal bonding of a breastplate and molded to the shape of the breasts.

12. Bra made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that a center of inextensible textile material of appearance is inserted between the plastron and the knit, in the zone situated between the cups.

13. Bra made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that one face of said center is coated with an adhesive material allowing its bonding against the knit.

14. Bra made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said adhesive material is identical to that which operates the bonding of the plastron and the knit.

15. Bra made from a tubular knit according to any one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that each cup has a frame inserted in a housing disposed between the breastplate and the knitted fabric, said housing delimiting the outline bottom of the hat.

16. Bra made from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said housing consists of a seamless textile tube with a shape corresponding to that of the frame, with very high son density. and sewn on the breastplate.

17. Method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit made of a first extensible and thermoformable material, provided with a ribbing forming the lower basque of the bra, characterized by the following steps: tracing the upper contours of the bra during tubular knitting by using a mesh of different texture for said contours; bonding of an internal lining in a second extensible and thermoformable material in the region of the cups, by hot pressing at a temperature between 165 ° C and 195 ° C; hot molding of the cups at a temperature between 175 ° C and 195 ° C; cutting the bra from the contours defined on the tubular knit; securing of the front and rear portions of the shoulder straps as cut.

18. A method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the upper contours of the bra are hemmed and sewn in an elasticizing operation.

19. A method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit according to one of claims 17 and 18, characterized in that the tubular base is sectioned at the dorsal junction, the residual dorsal tabs then being fitted with a stapling system.

20. A method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit according to any one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the lining is a plastron whose face glued to the knit is coated with a center triangular in appearance made of an inextensible textile material placed in the area between the cups.

21. A method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said center is coated with a layer of adhesive material on its face not bonded to the plastron.

22. A method of manufacturing a bra from a tubular knit according to any one of claims 17 to 21, characterized in that tubes made of seamless tubular textile material are sewn against the face of the lining. sticking against the knitted fabric, said tubes being provided for housing reinforcements delimiting the lower contour of the cap.

23. Panties made from a tubular knitted fabric provided with a ribbing surrounding the waist of the body according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the buttock region is reinforced by internal bonding of at least a lining, and molded to the shape of the buttocks.