EP1263400A1 - Utilisation d'hydrolysats proteiques cationiques - Google Patents

Utilisation d'hydrolysats proteiques cationiques

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Publication number
EP1263400A1
EP1263400A1 EP01923588A EP01923588A EP1263400A1 EP 1263400 A1 EP1263400 A1 EP 1263400A1 EP 01923588 A EP01923588 A EP 01923588A EP 01923588 A EP01923588 A EP 01923588A EP 1263400 A1 EP1263400 A1 EP 1263400A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
use according
fibers
acid
polymer
cationic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP01923588A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gabriele Munk
Elisabeth Poppe
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH filed Critical Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Publication of EP1263400A1 publication Critical patent/EP1263400A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of cationic protein hydrolyzates to improve the wash-fastness of dyeings of keratin fibers, corresponding preparations and methods for dyeing fibers.
  • oxidation dyes are used for permanent, intensive dyeings with appropriate fastness properties.
  • Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation coloring agents are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results. For natural-looking dyeings, however, a mixture of a large number of oxidation dye precursors usually has to be used; in many cases direct dyes are still used for the shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of the color formation have clearly different fastness properties (e.g.
  • Colorants or tints are usually used for temporary dyeings. which contain so-called direct draws as the coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, henna, which is known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally significantly more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much undesired shift in nuances or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • Efforts have not been lacking to improve the authenticity of dyeings of keratin fibers.
  • One development direction is the optimization of the dyes themselves or the synthesis of new, modified dye molecules.
  • Another direction of development is the search for additives for the colorants in order to increase the authenticity of the dyeings.
  • a known solution to the problem is to add UV filters to the colorant. These filter substances are applied to the hair together with the dye during the dyeing process, which in many cases results in a significant increase in the stability of the dyeing against the action of daylight or artificial light.
  • a first object of the present invention is therefore the use of cationic protein hydrolyzates to improve the wash fastness of dyeings of fibers, in particular keratin fibers.
  • the active ingredient used according to the invention improves the fastness to washing of dyeings on artificial fibers such as polyesters and natural fibers such as cotton and in particular keratin fibers.
  • keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
  • the compounds according to the invention comprise cationized protein hydrolyzates, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae , or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins results in
  • Protein hydrolysates the underlying protein portion of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N-
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. As typical
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
  • Conchiolin protein hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin
  • Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk -79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
  • the plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.
  • the agents used in the agents according to the invention are contained in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the agent as a whole. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the color-preserving action of the compound according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives.
  • a second object of the invention is therefore the use of the color-retaining active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen are preferred.
  • the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
  • the amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight. It has also been shown to be advantageous that polymers can support the color-preserving action of the active ingredient according to the invention.
  • polymers are therefore added, with cationic, anionic and amphoteric polymers having proven to be particularly effective.
  • Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” means those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the composition. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a carbon hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n a natural number
  • X is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
  • those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 represents a methyl group
  • R 2 represents a methyl group
  • R 3 and R 4 represent methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X " are, for example, halide ions. Sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions are preferred. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out using polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane.
  • Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (I) preferably contain, as nonionic monomer units, acrylamide, methacrylamide, C-alkyl acrylate and C M methacrylic acid alkyl ester.
  • these nonionic monomers acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • these copolymers can also be crosslinked.
  • a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked ac * amide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as an approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® ,
  • Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are available under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as the under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone as are commercially available as copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP).
  • Gaffix * VC 713 manufactured by ISP
  • Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1 Gafquat ® HS 1 10
  • Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available.
  • cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ®. CMF, Hydagen ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are commercially available.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • anionic polymers which can support the color-preserving action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triefhanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik * l 1-80, is particularly preferred.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the preferred crosslinking agents being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • the use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component Contains hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffins) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7) has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether especially those with crosslinks are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as a component to increase the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain " - or -SO 3 " groups, and summarize those polymers which contain -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or represents more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or represents more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • R 5 -CH CR 6 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 7 R 8 R 9 A w (II)
  • R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 7 , R 8 and R 9 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n a whole
  • Number from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • R 10 and R 11 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium ethoxysulfate are very particularly preferred -Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric polymer.
  • the polymers are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Protein hydrolyzates may also be present in the preparations according to the invention. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates. for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Cationic surfactants of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines are preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides. Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride and Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 compounds imidazolium.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with trietha nolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® .
  • alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A,) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate are suitable as vitamin A components.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
  • Vitamin B (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol
  • panthenol is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucodides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4- ⁇ ] -imidazole-4-valeric acid is called vitamin H, but for which the trivial name biotin has now become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit are particularly preferred.
  • the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • Water can be used as the extraction agent for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof are used.
  • lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
  • the color-retaining active ingredient complex according to the invention can in principle be added directly to the colorant.
  • the color-retaining active ingredient complex is preferably applied to the dyed keratin fiber in a separate step either directly after the actual dyeing process or in separate treatments, if appropriate also days or weeks after the dyeing process.
  • the term dyeing process includes all processes known to the person skilled in the art, in which a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed out or left entirely on the hair. In this context, it is expressly referred to the known monographs, e.g. B. Kh. Schrader. Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989., which reflect the corresponding knowledge of the expert.
  • Creams of these preparations include, for example, creams and lotions. Solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable. These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous alcohol basis. Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used as the alcoholic component.
  • Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the alcohol / water mixture, can be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, values from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH.
  • Food acids are usually used as acids.
  • Edible acids are understood to mean those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. Within the scope of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • Preparations remaining on the hair have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention.
  • “remaining on the hair” is understood to mean those preparations which are not rinsed out of the hair again after a period of a few seconds to an hour using water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparations remain until the next hair wash, i.e. H. usually more than 12 hours on the hair.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair treatment or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations according to the invention in accordance with this embodiment can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after this exposure time has elapsed; however, as stated above, they are preferably left on the hair. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before using a cleaning agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as color protection for the subsequent applications.
  • the agents according to the invention can also be, for example, cleaning agents such as shampoos, care agents such as rinses, setting agents such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and hair dryer shafts, permanent shaping agents such as permanent wave and fixing agents, and in particular in the context of a permanent wave method or Dyeing process used pre-treatment agents or rinsing.
  • cleaning agents such as shampoos
  • care agents such as rinses
  • setting agents such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and hair dryer shafts
  • permanent shaping agents such as permanent wave and fixing agents, and in particular in the context of a permanent wave method or Dyeing process used pre-treatment agents or rinsing.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated triglycerides, such as, in particular, ethoxylated castor oil.
  • nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated triglycerides, such as, in particular, ethoxylated castor oil.
  • Alk (en) yl oligoglucosides fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
  • anionic surfactants especially alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate , N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium
  • Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans.
  • Cellulose derivatives e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxy methyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as.
  • B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin.
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin.
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol, symmetrical and asymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether , Di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n -Undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-
  • Fatty alcohols especially linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, and monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols with 6 to 24 C atoms, active ingredients that improve fiber structure, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, Fruit sugar and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B.
  • sunflower oil orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil and phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl l-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate defoamers such as silicones, Dyes for coloring the agent,
  • Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, other substances for adjusting the pH range, such as, for example, ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, cholesterol,
  • Consistency agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins. fatty acid,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, pigments,
  • Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, antioxidants.
  • Oxidation dye precursors of the developer and coupler type
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -
  • 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino
  • Developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1-
  • M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5-
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol,
  • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 -dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine,
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1, 7 -Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxy-naphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, Morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomo ⁇ holin,
  • Pyrazole derivatives such as, for example, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, l-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, l-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and l - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -arnino-3.4-methythyndendioxybenzene,
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5-, 2.7- and 1.7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro 6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable direct dyes are those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis- (ß- hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-l, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino- 6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino
  • Directly occurring dyes occurring in nature are for example henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, Rotten tree bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root included.
  • the hair colorants according to the invention may contain minor components in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts are used as precursors of nature-analogous dyes.
  • Those indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially that 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for.
  • dye precursors of the indoline or indole type it may be preferred to use them together with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide.
  • Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids and ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids.
  • Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Hair colorants especially if the coloring is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually set to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range from about 5 to 11.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine as well as alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-A-mino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred in this group.
  • the use of ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • customary oxidizing agents such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its adducts with urea, melamine or sodium borate, can be used.
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent can be preferred.
  • the enzymes can transfer electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then expediently mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately before the hair is colored.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferred to use the hair dye in a weakly alkaline environment.
  • the application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After an exposure time of approx. 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed from the hair to be colored by rinsing. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high tenside content, e.g. B. a coloring shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. be brought. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if necessary after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, rinsing is then carried out and, if desired, re-shampooing.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • air oxidation is initially sought, the agent applied preferably having a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated postoxidation, the use of acidified peroxidisulfate solutions as the oxidizing agent can be preferred.
  • the formation of the color can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2 ⁇ Mn + , Li + , Mg 2 ⁇ Ca 2+ and Al + .
  • Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ are particularly suitable.
  • the metal ions can be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the invention also relates to agents for improving the fastness to washing of colored fibers, in particular keratinic fibers, which contain a combination of a cationic protein hydrolyzate, a polymer and a derivative of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or its salt.
  • a third subject of the invention is a process for dyeing fibers, in particular keratin fibers, in which the fibers are dyed in a conventional manner in a first step and an agent is applied to the fibers in a second step is, which contains an active ingredient or active ingredient complex according to any one of claims 1 to 17 to increase the wash-fastness of the color, the agent being rinsed out after an exposure time of 1 to 5 minutes, if desired.
  • a fourth object of the invention is a process for dyeing fibers, in particular keratinic fibers, in which in a first step an agent is applied to the fibers which is an active ingredient or complex of active ingredients according to one of Claims 1 to 17 for increasing the washfastness of the dyeing contains, and then in a second step the fibers are dyed in the usual way.
  • an agent is applied to the fibers which is an active ingredient or complex of active ingredients according to one of Claims 1 to 17 for increasing the washfastness of the dyeing contains, and then in a second step the fibers are dyed in the usual way.
  • Fatty alcohol methyltriethanolammonium methylsulfate dialkyl ester mixture (INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis)
  • CTFA name Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-
  • AKZO g-alkylmethylammonium chloride 1 ethoxylated methylglucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates) (AMERCHOL)
  • the coloring cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair. 14. Tinting shampoo

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Abstract

Selon l"invention, la résistance au lavage de fibres teintées, notamment de fibres céramiques peut être sensiblement augmentée par l"utilisation d"hydrolysats protéiques cationiques.
EP01923588A 2000-02-29 2001-02-19 Utilisation d'hydrolysats proteiques cationiques Ceased EP1263400A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10009439 2000-02-29
DE2000109439 DE10009439A1 (de) 2000-02-29 2000-02-29 Neue Verwendung von kationischen Proteinhydrolysaten
PCT/EP2001/001820 WO2001064173A1 (fr) 2000-02-29 2001-02-19 Utilisation d"hydrolysats proteiques cationiques

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DE10042445A1 (de) * 2000-08-29 2002-03-14 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Verwendung von quaternierten Proteinhydrolysaten
EP1300131A1 (fr) * 2001-10-06 2003-04-09 Cognis Iberia, S.L. Compositions de traitement capillaire
DE10163803A1 (de) * 2001-12-22 2003-07-03 Henkel Kgaa Farberhaltung
DE10224022A1 (de) * 2002-05-31 2003-12-11 Beiersdorf Ag Mildes Pflegeshampoo
DE10224025A1 (de) * 2002-05-31 2003-12-11 Beiersdorf Ag Pflegendes Haarshampoo
DE102016219004A1 (de) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016218989A1 (de) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016219007A1 (de) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
DE102016218997A1 (de) * 2016-09-30 2018-04-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz

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DE4109976A1 (de) * 1991-03-27 1992-10-01 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur dauerhaften verformung von haaren
DE19533211B4 (de) * 1995-09-08 2005-12-01 Kpss-Kao Professional Salon Services Gmbh Haarnachbehandlungsmittel
JP3188871B2 (ja) * 1998-09-22 2001-07-16 株式会社 伊藤園 抗菌性繊維の製造法
DE19907714A1 (de) * 1999-02-23 2000-08-24 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Zubereitungen zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
DE19936910A1 (de) * 1999-08-05 2001-02-08 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Neue Verwendung synthetischer Polymere

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Title
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