WO2002045664A1 - Utilisation de phospholipides dans des produits de soin capillaires - Google Patents

Utilisation de phospholipides dans des produits de soin capillaires Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2002045664A1
WO2002045664A1 PCT/EP2001/013922 EP0113922W WO0245664A1 WO 2002045664 A1 WO2002045664 A1 WO 2002045664A1 EP 0113922 W EP0113922 W EP 0113922W WO 0245664 A1 WO0245664 A1 WO 0245664A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
hair
preferred
alcohol
compounds
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PCT/EP2001/013922
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Elisabeth Poppe
Gabriele Weser
Original Assignee
Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg
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Priority to AU2002217064A priority Critical patent/AU2002217064A1/en
Publication of WO2002045664A1 publication Critical patent/WO2002045664A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of phospholipids for restructuring keratinic fibers and / or for increasing the wash fastness of colored keratin fibers and as a component of an active ingredient combination and the use of the active ingredient combination in skin and hair treatment compositions, preferably in hair care and hair dye compositions.
  • oxidation colorants are used for permanent, intensive dyeings with appropriate fastness properties.
  • Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation coloring agents are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results. For natural-looking dyeings, however, a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors usually has to be used; in many cases will continue direct dyes used for shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of the color formation have distinctly different fastness properties (e.g.
  • UV stability fastness to perspiration, fastness to washing, etc.
  • a recognizable and therefore undesirable color shift can occur over time.
  • This phenomenon increases when the hairstyle has hair or hair zones with different degrees of damage.
  • One example of this is long hair, in which the hair tips, which have been exposed to all possible environmental influences for a long time, are generally significantly more damaged than the relatively freshly regrown hair zones.
  • Coloring agents or tinting agents which contain so-called direct draws as the coloring component are usually used for temporary dyeings. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, henna, which is known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally significantly more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much undesired shift in nuances or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • the hair usually in the form of a rinse, is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • this treatment improves the combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.
  • these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents.
  • the consumer thus saves one application step; At the same time, the packaging effort is reduced because one product is used less.
  • the active ingredients available both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination products generally act preferentially on the hair surface.
  • Hair care products are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combability or prevent split ends.
  • the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers which can be greatly influenced in particular in oxidative and reductive processes such as coloring and perms.
  • active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic compositions with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability In particular in formulations containing dyes and / or electrolytes, there is a need for additional caring active ingredients which can be incorporated into known formulations without problems.
  • phospholipids as active ingredients (A) do not have the disadvantages mentioned above and at the same time improve the feel, the ability to wet comb and the shine, and significantly improve the internal structure of fibers, in particular ceramic fibers, and significantly increase them the washfastness of the color of the treated hair.
  • keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
  • Structural strengthening that is to say restructuring in the sense of the invention, is to be understood as a reduction in the damage to keratin fibers caused by a wide variety of influences.
  • the restoration of natural strength plays an important role.
  • Restructured fibers are characterized, for example, by an improved sheen, by an improved handle and by easier combing.
  • they have improved strength and elasticity.
  • successful restructuring can be demonstrated physically as an increase in melting point compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the stronger the structure of the fiber. A precise description of the determination of the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 AI.
  • the maintenance of the original coloring with regard to nuance and / or intensity is to be understood when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactants, such as shampoos.
  • aqueous agents in particular surfactants, such as shampoos.
  • the invention thus firstly relates to agents for restructuring and increasing the wash fastness of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which have at least one active ingredient (A) of the formula (I)
  • y stands for an integer from 0 to 2
  • x for an integer from 1 to 3, with the proviso that the sum of x and y is 3.
  • M furthermore represents hydrogen, an equivalent of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • Compounds in which M represents a sodium cation are particularly preferred.
  • B in the formula (I) of the active compounds to be used according to the invention represents an equivalent of a physiologically tolerated anion.
  • Suitable anions are e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate.
  • the chloride ion is preferred.
  • R in the active compounds of the formula (I) according to the invention represents a radical of the formula (II),
  • A is, according to the invention, one of the units -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, the unit -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 - is particularly preferred.
  • the rest R 3 stands for
  • Particularly preferred saturated radicals R 3 are the rest of the stearic acid and the remains of the mixture of the fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil.
  • a particularly preferred unsaturated radical R 3 is the rest of the linoleic acid.
  • compounds of the formula (I) in which R 3 is the rest of the linoleic acid are distinguished by a higher compatibility with conventional cosmetic emulsifier systems. This means that these substances are easier to incorporate into the formulations.
  • formulations with compounds of the formula (I) in which R 3 represents the rest of the linoleic acid have a significantly higher maintenance effect compared to compounds with saturated fatty acid residues.
  • Examples of the C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. Methyl groups are very particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (I) are the substances known under the INCI names linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate and stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. These are sold, for example, by Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA ® , Phospholipid PTC ® and Phospholipid SV ® .
  • the active compounds (A) according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 % By weight up to 5% by weight.
  • the structuring active ingredient (A) directly into coloring or tinting agents, which means to use the active ingredient (A) according to the invention in combination with dyes and / or dye precursors.
  • oxidation dye precursors of the developer (B1) and coupler type (B2), natural and synthetic direct dyes (C) and precursors of natural analog dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups can be used become.
  • Oxidation dye precursors of the developer type (B1) are usually primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4, 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy- 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4- aminophenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxy
  • B. 4,5-diamino-l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, l- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 , 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used as oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type (B2).
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 - aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-Hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3 - (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3 - aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxy-naphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl 1-3 aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable direct dyes are those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1,4-bis- (ß- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3, 4-tetrahyroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2 -Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino
  • the hair colorants according to the invention may contain minor components in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts are used as precursors of nature-analogous dyes.
  • Those indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. B. in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group.
  • 5,6-Dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, N-buty 1-5 have particularly advantageous properties.
  • 6-dihydroxyindoline 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hyroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline as well as 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl 1-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5 , 6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially that 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5 6-dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for.
  • amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids and ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids.
  • Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of nature-analogous dyes are preferably in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.
  • Hair colorants especially if the coloring is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually set to slightly acidic to alkaline, ie to pH values in the range from about 5 to 11.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are Monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-l, 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and Triethanolamine as well as alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are particularly preferred in this group.
  • the use of ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • customary oxidizing agents such as, in particular, hydrogen oxide or its adducts with urea, melamine or sodium borate can be used.
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the only oxidizing agent can be preferred. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for producing oxidizing per compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of oxidizing agents present, or else enzymes which use electrons from suitable developers. components (reducing agents) transferred to atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then expediently mixed with the preparation with the dye products immediately before the hair is dyed.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair color preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10.
  • the use of hair colorants in a weakly alkaline environment is particularly preferred.
  • the application temperatures can be in a range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp.
  • the hair dye is rinsed off the hair to be colored. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high tenside content, e.g. B. a coloring shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye products can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component.
  • the oxidation component is then applied, if necessary after an intermediate rinse.
  • rinsing is carried out and, if desired, re-shampooed.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • air oxidation is initially aimed for, the agent applied preferably having a pH of 7 to 10.
  • the use of acidic peroxidisulfate solutions as the oxidizing agent can be preferred.
  • the formation of the color can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ are particularly suitable.
  • the metal ions can be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention can be increased further by fatty substances (D).
  • Fat substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids (DI).
  • Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875
  • isopalmitic such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis).
  • fatty acids are caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic, Petroselin acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, Gadolein Textre, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.
  • Fatty alcohols (D2) which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C ⁇ -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , e.g. Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® , e.g.
  • Lanette ® O or Lorol ® e.g. B. Lorol ® C8, Lorol ® C14, Lorol ® C18, Lorol ® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ® , Crodacol ® , e.g. Crodacol ® CS, Novol ® , Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or Isocarb ® 24.
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight.
  • Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walnut, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP can be used according to the invention as natural or synthetic waxes (D3).
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which can increase the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products l, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • - ester oils Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid constituents used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linearic acid, arenachic acid, araoleic acid, araoleic acid, araelostic acid, araelostic acid, araelostic acid, araelostic acid, araelostic acid, elaearic acid, araelostic acid, araelostic acid, elaearic acid, elaostolic acid Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in
  • fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaalolyl alcohol, elaidolyl alcohol, elaidolyl alcohol Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • isopropyl myristate (Rilanit ® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, olerlerucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol ® ), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristy
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylacelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products, small quantities of triglycerides may still be present due to the manufacturing process.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups represents hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) represents 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 preferably represents an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 represents hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid , Elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
  • the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the agents used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight. -%.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • the combination of active ingredient (A) with surfactants (E) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
  • suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16, Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical or X
  • n for numbers from 1 to 10
  • X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another being hydrogen or a Cl to C4 hydrocarbon radical .
  • sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1 -II) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (EMI) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,
  • Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their formulated with sulfuric acid trioxide.
  • Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are preferably used, in which R 8 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE -Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycer disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates as well as protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - COO 0 - or -SO "* 1 group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Coca
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal ones Salts are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 24 C. Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 -C 18 acyl sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain e.g. a polyol group, a
  • Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups are, for example
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil
  • R'CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 for hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w for numbers from 1 to 20 stands
  • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and or alkenyl oligoglycosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, from hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C 12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
  • R 5 CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride can. With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R 8 OH OH OH
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselini
  • Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • Cationic surfactants (E5) of the type of the quarterly ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines can also be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, • distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 imidazol.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® .
  • alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof can be preferred according to the invention.
  • the action of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers work on the Phase boundary the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example the commercially available product Montanov ® 68,
  • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil
  • Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C atom 3 of the steroid structure and which are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples for zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosters are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.
  • glucose phospholipids include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product)
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New in the Rompp-Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz) York, (1997), page 1764.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • polymers (G) can support the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention.
  • polymers are therefore added to the agents used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.
  • Cationic polymers (G1) are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” means those polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which have a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is linked via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R ' -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4 "n is a natural number
  • X " is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion
  • copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (Gl-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers.
  • R 1 stands for a methyl group
  • R 3 and R 4 stand for methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of multiple olefins unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
  • Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C M alkyl acrylate and C w alkyl methacrylate as nonionogenic monomer units.
  • these nonionic monomers acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • these copolymers can also be crosslinked.
  • a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylaniid-methacryloyloxyelhyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® .
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,
  • cationized honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® ,
  • polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modi- ified Silicon, also known as Amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270, Abil ® - Quat 3272 and 3474 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80 )
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as are offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • cationic polymers can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers.
  • copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone such as those available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are.
  • Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called “temporarily cationic” polymers.
  • polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus is cationic at certain pH values.
  • chitosan and its derivatives as described, for example, “under the trade names Hydagen, are preferred ® CMF, Hydagen ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 * Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedium, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedium Amino Acid
  • the anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention, are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® l 1-80 is commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, the crosslinking agents preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyl- oxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • this compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7), has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also color-preserving polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1,9-decadiene painting einklare-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the action of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain " - or -SO 3 " groups, and summarize those polymers which contain - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylamino ethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylamino ethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium ion, are very particularly preferred ; Acrylamido-propyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned.
  • the agents according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 200 ° C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
  • the polymers (G) are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives (H) may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates is also understood to mean total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers constructed according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates.
  • the latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, A-tithranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Gluadin ® Cognis
  • DiaMin ® Diamalt
  • Lexein ® Inolex
  • Hydrosoy ® Croda
  • Hydrolupin ® Hydrosesame ®
  • Hydrotritium ® Crotein ®
  • Crotein ® Crotein ®
  • the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • the action of the active ingredients (A) can be increased by UV filters (I).
  • the structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates ), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb ® MET, Neo Heliopan ® BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan ® Hydro), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-l-yl-methanesulfonic acid)
  • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone 2- Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid xmd its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts
  • 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl- ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.
  • Preferred UN filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity compared to those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. by more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays.
  • this group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function , Connections from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U is preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
  • this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • group Q has the general structure X " , in which x stands for an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another stand for C M - alkyl groups, R 3 stands for a C,. 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ' for a physiological
  • x preferably represents the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each for a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions
  • organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethylarnrnoniumchlorid (Incro- quat ® UV-283) and dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammonium dimethylanimoniumtosylat (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the activity of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
  • the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
  • the amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • active ingredient (A) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) has also proven to be advantageous.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A_) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A components and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and also their esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often listed under this name.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether xmd and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be to be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4- £ t -imidazole-4-valeric acid] is called vitamin H, but for which the trivial name biotin has now become established.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi xmd melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • alcohols lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction. Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol xmd glycol ether, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol nonoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrochloride gene carbonates, diols xmd triols, xmd especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol , 1,6-hex
  • short-chain carboxylic acids can additionally support the effects of the active ingredient (A).
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives within the meaning of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic xmd / or aromatic xmd / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids in the sense of the invention can have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • carboxylic acids preference is given to carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups can be present in whole or in part as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention can of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, Cl-C8-alkyl-, C2-C8-alkenyl-, aryl-, aralkyl- xmd aralkenyl-, hy- droxymethyl-, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl-, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl-, aminomethyl-, C2-C8-aminoalkyl-, cyano-, formyl-, oxo-, thioxo-, hydroxy-, mercapto-, amino-, carboxy- or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are Cl-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyl, amino and carboxy groups.
  • Substituents in the ⁇ position are particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function can optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, propyl acid, sorbic acid, azelaic acid, azelaic acid - Acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropasäxxre, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, bicarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid , 4'-di
  • n a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y for a COOH group xmd the other for hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical
  • dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI) which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring
  • dicarboxylic acids which are derived from the dicar bonic acids according to formula (NI) formally arise from the addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • German patent specification 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap compositions. From German published patent application 28 33 291 deodorising agents are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 agents for washing and rinsing the hair are known, in which the addition of these dicarboxylic acids gives a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the agent. Finally, means for hair treatment are known from German published patent application 197 54 053, which have nourishing effects. However, none of these documents indicates the synergistic effect with the active ingredient (A).
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually, you will start with a multiple • unsaturated fatty acid as a dicarboxylic acid.
  • the linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred. Acrylic acid is particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. Diels-Alder reactions usually produce mixtures of isomers in which one component is present in excess. According to the invention, these isomer mixtures can be used just like the pure compounds.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results from the reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-l-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the names Westvaco Diacid ® 1550 and Westvaco Diacid ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and in this case in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and also the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxydi, tri and polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient (A).
  • the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 carbon atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, for example under the trademark Cosmacol ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic are polylactic acid and polytartaric so * as their esters.
  • the active ingredient (A) according to the invention can be added directly to the colorant, the waving agent or the fixation.
  • the restructuring active ingredient can also be applied to the keratin fiber in a separate step, either before or after the actual dyeing or corrugating process.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses separate treatments, possibly even days or weeks before or after the hair treatment, for example by dyeing or waving.
  • the active ingredient according to the invention can preferably be used after the corresponding hair treatment, such as dyeing or waving, in particular in the corresponding hair treatment compositions.
  • the term dyeing process includes all processes known to the person skilled in the art, in which a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed out or left entirely on the hair.
  • a dye is applied to the optionally moistened hair and either left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed out or left entirely on the hair.
  • monographs e.g. B. K. H. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, which reflect the relevant knowledge of the expert.
  • waving process includes all methods known to the person skilled in the art, in which a waving agent is applied to the optionally moistened and twisted hair and left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed out, then a permanent wave fixation is applied to the hair xmd, this is left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then rinsed out with water or a surfactant-containing agent.
  • a waving agent is applied to the optionally moistened and twisted hair and left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent.
  • a permanent wave fixation is applied to the hair xmd, this is left on the hair for a time between a few minutes and about 45 minutes and then rinsed out with water or a surfactant-containing agent.
  • monographs e.g. BKH Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetic
  • these preparations include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT), microemulsions, nanoemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, Sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable.
  • the pH of these preparations can be between 1 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 11, values from 3 to 10 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylene diamine.
  • the use of the active ingredient (A) according to the invention is also particularly preferred for adjusting the pH.
  • Preparations remaining on the hair have proven to be particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention.
  • “remaining on the hair” is understood to mean those preparations which are not rinsed out of the hair again after a period of a few seconds to an hour using water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparation remains until the next hair wash, i.e. usually more than 12 hours on the hair.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair treatment or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations according to the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after this exposure time has expired; however, as stated above, they can be left on the hair. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before using a cleaning agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as structural protection for the subsequent applications.
  • the agents according to the invention can also be, for example, cleaning agents such as shampoos, care agents such as rinses, setting agents such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and hair dryer shafts, permanent shaping agents such as permanent waving and fixing agents and in particular in the context of a permanent waving process pretreatment agents or rinses used in the dyeing process.
  • cleaning agents such as shampoos
  • care agents such as rinses
  • setting agents such as hair setting agents, foam setting agents, styling gels and hair dryer shafts
  • permanent shaping agents such as permanent waving and fixing agents and in particular in the context of a permanent waving process pretreatment agents or rinses used in the dyeing process.
  • these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic agents.
  • non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone xmd vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
  • - Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for.
  • B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
  • dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether xmd di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether xmd n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and Di -tert-butyl ether, di-iso- pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-buty
  • Fatty alcohols in particular linear and or saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • active ingredients that improve fiber structure in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil xmd peach seed oil,
  • quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine xmd climbazole,
  • Fat xmd waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins
  • - opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
  • a second subject of the invention are agents for the remaining dictation and / or to increase the wash fastness of fibers, in particular keratin fibers, which are a combination of a. the active ingredient (A) and b. contain a polymer (G).
  • a third object of the invention is a process for restructuring fibers, in particular keratin fibers, in which an agent with the active ingredient according to the invention, as used in one of claims 1 to 9, is applied to the fibers, the agent, if desired, after an exposure time of 1 up to 45 minutes.
  • a fourth object of the invention is a method for increasing the wash fastness of dyed fibers, in particular keratin fibers, in which an agent with the active ingredient according to the invention, as used in one of claims 1 to 9, is applied to the fibers, the agent, if desired, according to a Exposure time from 1 to 45 minutes is rinsed out again.
  • Panthenol (50%) 0.3 linoleic amidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate 2.0
  • Hydagen ® HCMF 54 0.5 stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate 0.5

Abstract

L'invention concerne une nouvelle utilisation de phospholipides améliorant sensiblement à la fois la restructuration de fibres, notamment de fibres kératiniques, et la résistance au lavage de fibres kératiniques.
PCT/EP2001/013922 2000-12-07 2001-11-28 Utilisation de phospholipides dans des produits de soin capillaires WO2002045664A1 (fr)

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DE2000160814 DE10060814A1 (de) 2000-12-07 2000-12-07 Neue Verwendung von Phospholipiden
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US8367047B2 (en) 2002-12-20 2013-02-05 L'oreal Hair compositions
DE102010030519A1 (de) * 2010-06-25 2011-12-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Biomimetische Zusammensetzungen zur Pflege und Restrukturierung keratinischer Fasern
DE102011089218A1 (de) 2011-12-20 2013-06-20 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Färbemittel mit kationischen direktziehenden Farbstoffen und Lecithine
RU2595856C1 (ru) * 2015-04-28 2016-08-27 Федеральное государственное бюджетное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Кубанский государственный технологический университет" (ФГБОУ ВПО "КубГТУ") Средство для выпрямления волос в виде мусса

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DE4408506A1 (de) * 1994-03-14 1995-09-21 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Wässerige Färbemittel für Keratinfasern
WO1997001323A1 (fr) * 1995-06-26 1997-01-16 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh Agents de coloration capillaires comportant au moins un principe actif traitant
DE19853215A1 (de) * 1997-11-20 1999-05-27 Unilever Nv Haarbehandlungsmittel
DE19914926A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-02-24 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Färbemittel mit konditionierenden Tensiden
DE19914927A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-10-05 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Pflegende Wirkstoffkombination in Haarbehandlungsmitteln

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DE4408506A1 (de) * 1994-03-14 1995-09-21 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Wässerige Färbemittel für Keratinfasern
WO1997001323A1 (fr) * 1995-06-26 1997-01-16 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh Agents de coloration capillaires comportant au moins un principe actif traitant
DE19853215A1 (de) * 1997-11-20 1999-05-27 Unilever Nv Haarbehandlungsmittel
DE19914926A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-02-24 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Färbemittel mit konditionierenden Tensiden
DE19914927A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-10-05 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Pflegende Wirkstoffkombination in Haarbehandlungsmitteln

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