Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a hair care composition, and a process for forming the same.
• Such approaches typically seek to increase smoothness, softness, and luster by including hair conditioning compounds, typically cationic compounds, such as cationic surfactants, into a hair care composition.
• hair conditioning compounds may also reduce static.
• these cationic compounds including quaternary ammonium compounds, seek to neutralize the static charge on the hair, and thus reduce flyaway hair volume.
• these hair conditioning compounds do not sufficiently reduce total hair volume, and may be harsh on the hair, skin, or scalp. Accordingly, there exists a need for a hair care composition which effectively deposits onto hair to noticeably reduce total hair volume. There also exists a need for a process for making such a hair care composition.
• the present invention relates to an improved hair care composition including an alkyl ethoxylate and a gel matrix.
• the alkyl ethoxylate is of the formula R-O-(C 2 H 4 O) n H, where R represents an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, and where n represents a number from about 1 to about 10.
• the weight average molecular weight of the alkyl ethoxylate is less than about 500 g/mol, and the HLB value of the alkyl ethoxylate is from about 5 to about 12.
• the gel matrix includes a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound, and water.
• the present invention relates to an improved process for forming a hair care composition, which includes the steps of providing an alkyl ethoxylate, forming a gel matrix, and forming a hair care composition by combining the alkyl ethoxylate with the gel matrix.
• the alkyl ethoxylate is of the formula R-O-(C 2 H 4 O) n H, where R represents an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, and where n represents a number from about 1 to about 10.
• the weight average molecular weight of the alkyl ethoxylate is less than about 500 g/mol, and the HLB value of the alkyl ethoxylate is from about 6 to about 12.
• the gel matrix is formed by providing a cationic surfactant, providing a solid fatty compound, and mixing the cationic surfactant and the solid fatty compound at a temperature greater than both their respective melting points.
• the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is form about 1 :1 to about 1 :20.
• total hair volume is actually the sum of the "flyaway hair volume” and the "bulk hair volume.” It has also been found that a measurable reduction of bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area, by the Image Analysis Protocol described herein, corresponds to a noticeable decrease in the bulk hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and the total hair volume, respectively. Accordingly, it has been found that reducing the bulk hair area can therefore play a significant role in reducing the total hair volume. While certain compounds and compositions are known to reduce fly-away hair volume, for example, by reducing the static charge of hair, these compositions do not noticeably reduce bulk hair volume.
• an alkyl ethoxylate compound provides a noticeable reduction in bulk hair volume, when included in a hair care composition, preferably a hair conditioning composition, and/or a styling composition. It has now been found that a hair care composition which moisturizes the hair may noticeably reduce bulk hair volume, and may also noticeably reduce flyaway hair volume. This, in turn, provides a significant, noticeable reduction in total hair volume.
• the hair care compositions may also provide significant lubricity, smoothness, slipperiness, and softness benefits.
• Fig. 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System.
• alkyl means a hydrocarbyl moiety which is straight, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. Unless otherwise specified, alkyl moieties are preferably saturated or unsaturated with double bonds, preferably with one or two double bonds. Included in the term “alkyl” is the alkyl portion of acyl groups.
• the term "hair conditioning benefit” indicates a conditioning, softening, bulk hair volume reduction, flyaway hair volume reduction, total hair volume reduction, moisturizing, improved wet-hair or dry-hair feel, lubricating, smoothening, softening, and/or other effect when applied to hair. All reductions in bulk hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and/or total hair volume are according to the Image Analysis Protocol, as described herein.
• the term “polydispersity” indicates the degree of the molecular weight distribution of the polymer sample. Specifically, the polydispersity is a ratio, greater than 1 , equal to the weight average molecular weight divided by the number average molecular weight. For a further discussion about polydispersity, see “Principles of Polymerization,” pp. 20-24, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3 rd ed., 1991).
• water-insoluble means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25 °C, when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
• the hair care compositions herein may be, for example, hair conditioning compositions, hair styling compositions, hair cosmetic compositions, and/or hair coloring compositions.
• the hair care composition herein is selected from a hair conditioning composition, and a hair styling composition. Combinations of these embodiments are also highly preferred.
• the hair care composition of the present invention comprises an alkyl ethoxylate.
• the alkyl ethoxylate useful herein has the formula: R-O-(C 2 H 4 O) n H, wherein R is an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms; R may be branched, linear, saturated, unsaturated, but is preferably linear and saturated, or unsaturated having about one double bond; n is from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 2 to about 8, and more preferably from about 3 to about 6; the weight average molecular weight of the alkyl ethoxylate is less than about 500 g/mol, preferably from about 100 to about 500 g/mol, and more preferably from about 200 to about 500 g/mol; and the HLB value of the alkyl ethoxylate is from about 5 to about 12, preferably from about 6 to about 11 , and more preferably from
• such alkyl ethoxylates are miscible in both oil and water. Furthermore, such alkyl ethoxylates typically have a melting point of less than about 30 °C, preferably less than about 25 °C, and more preferably less than about 20 °C, and have a cloud point (1 % solution) of less than about 50 °C, preferably less than about 40 °C, and more preferably less than about 35 °C.
• the HLB value is a theoretical index value which describes the hydrophilicity-hydrophobicity balance of a specific compound. Generally, it is recognized that the HLB index ranges from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very hydrophilic).
• HLB 7 + ⁇ (hydrophobic group values) + ⁇ (hydrophilic group values).
• alkyl ethoxylates useful herein provide a bulk hair volume reduction benefit by the following mechanism:
• the hydrophobic alkyl chains attach to hair fibers, even under rinse-off conditions, while the hydrophilic ethoxylate groups attract water molecules and bring them to the hair fibers.
• This moisturizes the hair fiber, and helps maintain it in a flexible, soft, and plastic state.
• This allows the hair fiber to maintain a well-aligned conformation (with respect to other hair fibers) and to easily recovery from deformation. This further increases the likelihood that the hair fibers will remain parallel, and/or hang straight down. This significantly reduces the space between the individual hair fibers, and therefore reduces bulk hair volume.
• the alkyl ethoxylate may reduce flyaway hair volume as well.
• the alkyl ethoxylate may also reduce the hair fiber's static charge and crookedness. This in turn, reduces the electrostatic repulsion and space between hair fibers, which leads to a reduction in flyaway volume.
• alkyl ethoxylate useful herein include, for example, by CTFA name: oleth-5, oleth-3, steareth-5, steareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-4, and ceteareth-3, as well as mixtures of mixtures of C 9 _ nEO2.5, mixtures of C 12 . 13 EO3, mixtures of Cn. ⁇ EO ⁇ , and mixtures thereof.
• These alkyl ethoxylates are available from, for example, Croda, Inc., of Parsippany, New Jersey, U.S.A., Shell Chemical of U.S.A., BASF of Germany, Mitsubishi Chemical of Tokyo, Japan, and Nikko Chemical of Tokyo, Japan.
• alkyl ethoxylates are especially preferred for use in rinse-off hair conditioning compositions.
• the alkyl ethoxylate is preferably present in the hair care composition at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 15%, and even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the hair care composition.
• the hair care composition is a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, then the alkyl ethoxylate is preferably present at a level of at least about 1 %, more preferably from about 2% to about 20%, and even more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, by weight of the rinse-off hair conditioning composition.
• the hair care composition is intended for use as a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, it is highly preferred that the alkyl ethoxylate have a cloud point of less than about 40 °C. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that this significantly improves the deposition efficiency of the alkyl ethoxylate onto hair.
• the present invention comprises, by weight of the hair care composition, from about 60% to about 99%, preferably from about 70% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 95% of a gel matrix, to which the alkyl ethoxylate is typically added.
• the gel matrix includes a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound, and water.
• the gel matrix serves as an aqueous carrier for the alkyl ethoxylate, and is typically characterized by a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps, preferably from about 10,000 cps to about 30,000 cps, and more preferably from about 12,000 cps to about 28,000 cps, as measured at 25 °C, by means of a Brookfield Viscometer at shear rate of 1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the gel matrix significantly improves deposition of the alkyl ethoxylate onto hair.
• the gel matrix is a lamellar gel matrix, which provides improved deposition, wet hair feel, softness, and other substantial benefits.
• the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is from about 1 :1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 1 :2 to about 1 :10, and more preferably form about 1 :3 to 1 :5.
• the preferred cationic surfactants in the lamellar gel matrix contain one or two long chain (e.g., C 12 _ 3 o) alkyl groups, and a tertiary or quaternary amine group. Tertiary amine groups having one or two C ⁇ . ⁇ alkyl chains are preferred.
• DSC differential scanning calorimetry
• a profile chart obtained by DSC measurement describes chemical and physical changes of the scanned sample that involve an enthalpy change or energy gradient when the temperature of the sample is fluctuated.
• DSC measurement of compositions of the present invention may be conducted by any suitable instrument available.
• DSC measurement may be suitably conducted by Seiko DSC 6000 instrument available from Seiko Instruments Inc.
• a sample is prepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into a container made for DSC measurement and sealed. The weight of the sample is recorded.
• a blank sample i.e.; an unsealed sample of the same container is also prepared.
• the sample and blank sample are placed inside the instrument, and run under a measurement condition of from about -50 °C to about 130 °C at a heating rate of from about 1 °C/minute to about 10 °C/minute.
• the area of the peaks as identified are calculated and divided by the weight of the sample to obtain the enthalpy change in mJ/mg.
• the DSC profile shows a formation peak of larger than about 3 mJ/mg.
• the position of the peaks are identified by the peak top position.
• the DSC profile of the preferred lamellar gel matrix shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of from about 55 °C to about 75 °C, and from about 6 mJ/mg to about 10 mJ/mg.
• the preferred DSC profile of the lamellar gel matrix shows no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40 °C to 55 °C. It is believed that a composition formed predominantly with such a gel matrix shows a relatively stable phase behavior during the temperature range of from about 40 °C to about 55 °C.
• the DSC profile shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of about 69 °C, at about 8 mJ/mg, and no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40 °C to about 65 °C.
• cationic surfactants useful herein are those corresponding to the general Formula (I):
• R 01 , R 102 , R 103 and R 04 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R 10 , R 102 , R 103 and R 104 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X " is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulf
• halogen e.
• the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
• the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
• R 101 , R 102 , R 103 and R 104 are independently selected from C, to about C ⁇ alkyl.
• Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
• cationic surfactants of general Formula (I) preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons.
• preferred cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan); cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan), hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium
• hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the R 101 -R 104 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C C 3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C C 3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof.
• the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.
• Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of Formulas (II) through (VIII) below:
• n 1 is from 8 to about 28, m +m 2 is from 2 to about 40, Z 1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH 2 CH 2 O) m3 H wherein m 1 +m 2 +m 3 is up to 60, and X " is a salt-forming anion as defined above;
• n 2 is 1 to 5
• one or more of R 105 , R 106 , and R 107 are independently an C,- C 30 alkyl, the remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH
• one or two of R 108 , R 109 , and R 110 are independently an C C 30 alkyl, and remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH
• X " is a salt- forming anion as mentioned above;
• Z 2 is an alkyl, preferably C C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
• Z 3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl
• n 3 and n 4 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2
• R 11 and R 112 independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C 12 -C 20 alkyl or alkenyl
• X " is a salt-forming anion as defined above;
• R 113 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C,-C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
• Z 4 and Z 5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C 2 -C 4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl
• m 4 is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and
• X is a salt-forming anion as defined above;
• R 114 and R 115 are C C 3 alkyl, preferably methyl
• Z 6 is a C 12 -C 22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido
• A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof
• X " is a salt-forming anion as defined above;
• Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quatemium-30, quaternium-33, quatemium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quatemium-61 , quaternium-62, quatemium-70, quaternium-71 , quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium- 78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quatern
• hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT K1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemicals (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Hen
• Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants.
• the alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted. Particularly useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines.
• Such amines include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyiamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide.
• dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine.
• These amines are typically used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species.
• the preferred acid useful herein includes L- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
• Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055 to Nachtigal, et al., issued June 23, 1981.
• the molar ratio of protonatable amines to H + from the acid is preferably from about 1 :0.3 to 1 :1.2, and more preferably from about 1 :0.5 to about 1 :1.1.
• the solid fatty compound useful herein has a melting point of 25°C or higher, and is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives may also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
• the solid fatty compound is included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%.
• the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about
• fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.
• fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or branched chain acids. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids.
• Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
• Solid fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
• Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred.
• pure herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%.
• solid fatty compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin-nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from Wako Chemical (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago, Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy).
• poly fatty alcohols may form the gel matrix
• mono fatty alcohols are preferred.
• Either the cationic surfactant, and/or the solid fatty compound may be first mixed with, suspended in, and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel matrix.
• the final hair care composition of the present invention typically comprises at least about 60%, preferably at least about 70% water, and more preferably from about 75% to about 95% water.
• Deionized water is preferably used.
• Water from natural sources including mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
• Additional components are preferred in the present invention. These include, compounds which may provide, for example, an additional hair care, and/or hair conditioning benefit when included herein.
• Preferred other additional components include an oil, a polypropylene glycol, a cationic conditioning compound, an anti-microbial agent, an herbal extract, and mixtures thereof. Unless otherwise noted, such other additional components generally are typically used individually at levels from about 0.001% to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of the composition.
• an oil is provided, having an HLB value of from about 0 to about 3, preferably from about 0 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0 to about 1.
• HLB value of from about 0 to about 3, preferably from about 0 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0 to about 1.
• a phase change in-and-of-itself may affect stability and/or deposition efficiency.
• the alkyl ethoxylates described herein may be more water-soluble at lower temperatures (e.g., storage temperatures), than at higher temperatures (e.g., production temperatures). If such an alkyl ethoxylate enters the aqueous phase from the oil-phase, its deposition efficiency onto hair may be significantly reduced. In such a case, even though it is not degraded or otherwise chemically altered, the alkyl ethoxylate may not efficiently deposit on the hair, because it is too easily washed away during use. Such a low deposition efficiency is undesirable.
• the oil when mixed with the alkyl ethoxylate prior to its addition to the gel matrix, the oil may entrap the alkyl ethoxylate therein.
• the low HLB value of these oils provides a highly hydrophobic environment which reduces the likelihood that the alkyl ethoxylate will undergo a phase change during storage, transport, etc. This in turn enhances the alkyl ethoxylate's stability during storage, and prevents it from easily washing away during, for example, rinsing of the hair.
• such an oil is especially preferred in a rinse- off hair conditioning composition.
• these oils may also act as a carrier which itself further enhances actual deposition. Additionally, the oil may itself provide desirable benefits, such as improved combability, dry-hair feel, shininess, softness, smoothness, and/or slipperiness.
• Preferred examples of the oil useful herein include ester oils, liquid fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives, hydrocarbons, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof which possess an HLB value of from about 0 to about 3, preferably from about 0 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0 to about 1. More preferred examples of the oil useful herein include fatty acid esters of low and high molecular weights, liquid fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof which possess the above HLB value.
• oil useful herein include liquid fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and fatty acid esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof which possess the above HLB value.
• the oil may be included at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight of the hair care composition.
• the ester oil useful herein is of the general formula: RCOOR wherein each R is independently a C C 22 alkyl, and preferably at least one R is a C 8 -C 22 alkyl. Each 1 may be either a straight or branched alkyl chain. If R is branched, it is preferred that R have from 2 to 4 branches.
• the ester oil useful herein should be easy to formulate, and process. Accordingly, the ester oil typically has a melting point of less than about 40 °C, and is preferably water- insoluble, and in a liquid form at 25 °C.
• ester oils useful herein have a weight average molecular weight of greater than about 70 g/mol, preferably from about 100 g/mol to about 2,000 g/mol, and more preferably from about 160 g/mol to about 1 ,200 g/mol are especially useful herein.
• the ester oil useful herein includes pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly ⁇ -olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
• the ester oils useful herein are those which are water-insoluble, and are in liquid form at 25 °C.
• the ester oil herein provides moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet does not leave the hair feeling greasy.
• a composition is obtained which may provide particularly suitable conditioning benefits both when the hair is wet and also after it has dried.
• the ester oil may be included at a level of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight of the composition.
• Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least 800 g/mol:
• R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
• R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons.
• R ⁇ R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1 ,200 g/mol.
• Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least 800 g/mol:
• R 11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons
• R 2 , R 13 , and R 14 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
• R 11 is ethyl and R 2 , R 13 , and R 14 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 11 , R 2 , R 13 and R 14 are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1 ,200 g/mol.
• ester oils are pentaester oils and trimethylol ester oils, and more preferably pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
• Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol (Japan) with the tradenames KAK P.T.I., and KAK T.T.I., and Shin-nihon Rika (Tokyo, Japan) with the tradenames PTO, and ENUJERUBU TP3SO.
• Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 500 g/mol having the following formula:
• R 21 is OH or CH 3 COO
• R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
• R 21 is OH
• R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons.
• R 2 , R 22 , R 23 and R 24 are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800 g/mol.
• citrate ester oils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316 available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISC available from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 320 available from Bernel.
• Glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 400 g/mol and having the following formula:
• R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
• R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are defined so that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is at least about 500 g/mol.
• Particularly useful glyceryl ester oils herein include caprylic/capric triglyceride with the tradename Miglyol812, from Degussa-H ⁇ ls AG (Frankfurt, Germany), triisostearin with tradename SUN ESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku, triolein with tradename CITHROL GTO available from Croda, Inc. (Parsippany, New Jersey, USA), trilinolein with tradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy (Genova, Italy), or tradename EFA-GLYCERIDES from Brooks (South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA).
• the liquid fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These liquid fatty alcohols maybe straight or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Solid fatty compounds are those fatty alcohols which, when in their substantially pure forms, are solid at 25 °C, while liquid fatty alcohols are those fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25 °C. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. While poly fatty alcohols are useful herein, mono fatty alcohols are preferred.
• the fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
• the fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty acids, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
• Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate,
• liquid fatty alcohols and their derivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from Shin-nihon Rika, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropyl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol.
• the hydrocarbons useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25 °C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C 2 ⁇ alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths.
• the number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500 g/mol, preferably from about 200 g/mol to about 400 g/mol, and more preferably from about 300 g/mol to about 350 g/mol.
• mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly ⁇ -olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
• Poly ⁇ -olefin oils useful herein are those derived from 1-alkene monomers having from about 6 to about 16 carbons, preferably from about 6 to about 12 carbons atoms.
• Nonlimiting examples of 1-alkene monomers useful for preparing the poly ⁇ -olefin oils include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1- dodecene, 1 -tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, branched isomers such as 4-methyl-1- pentene, and mixtures thereof.
• Preferred 1-alkene monomers useful for preparing the poly ⁇ -olefin oils are 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1- tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof.
• Poly ⁇ -olefin oils useful herein further have a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cps, a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3.
• Poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 800 g/mol are useful herein, to provide long lasting moisturized feel to the hair.
• poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 800 g/mol are also useful herein, to provide a smooth, light, clean feel to the hair.
• Particularly useful poly ⁇ -olefin oils herein include polydecenes with tradename PURESYN 6 having a weight average molecular weight of about 500 and PURESYN 100 having a weight average molecular weight of over 3000 g/mol available from Mobil Chemical Co.
• hydrocarbons useful herein include isododecane, isohexadecane, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago, Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco Chemicals, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston, Texas, USA), and polydecene with tradename PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co. (Houston, Texas, USA).
• compositions of the present invention preferably contain a silicone compound.
• the silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents.
• soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.
• insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.
• the silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization.
• the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
• the silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25 °C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000.
• the viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
• Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization.
• Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
• the silicone compound is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 10%.
• the silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I) wherein R 123 is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
• Z 8 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains.
• the alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R 123 ) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z 8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair.
• Suitable Z 8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy.
• the two R 123 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R 123 groups represent the same group.
• Suitable R 23 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl.
• the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
• the polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company (Waterford, New York, USA) in their Viscasil® and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning Corp. (Midland, Michigan, USA) in their Dow Corning 200 series.
• Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, are highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreading agent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
• a spreading agent such as a surfactant or a silicone resin
• the silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used.
• the ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispensability characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
• Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II)
• R 24 is H, CH 3 or OH, p ⁇ p 2 , q 1 and q 2 are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the weight average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000.
• This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".
• Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III)
• R 125 a G 3 . a -Si-(OSiG 2 ) p3 -(OSiG b (R 125 ) 2 . b ) p4 -O-SiG 3 .
• G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C C 8 alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1 ; the sum p 3 +p 4 is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, p 3 being able to denote a number from 0 to 1 ,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and p 4 being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R 125 is a monovalent radical of formula C q3 H 2q3 L in which q 3 is an integer from
• R 126 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X denotes a halide ion.
• An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" wherein R 124 is CH 3 .
• amino substituted silicone polymers useful herein include cationic amino substituted silicones represented by the formula (V):
• R 128 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl
• R 129 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C C 18 alkylene radical or a C,-C 18 , and more preferably alkyleneoxy radical
• Q " is a halide ion, preferably chloride
• p 5 denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8
• p 6 denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50.
• a preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56.”
• silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25 °C of greater than or equal to 1 ,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416 to Spitzer, et al., issued May 1 , 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968.
• silicone gums will typically have a weight average molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1 ,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane methyivinylsiloxane) copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methyivinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
• silicone resins which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems.
• the crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin.
• the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin.
• silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
• the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material.
• Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
• the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0.
• Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized.
• Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267.
• silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid.
• the silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
• Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones.
• Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 05 ; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH 3 ) 2 SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH 3 )SiO 1 5 ; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO2.
• Primes of the unit symbols denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc.
• the molar ratios of the various units either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with the weight average molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
• the silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ,
• the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
• MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the weight average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
• silicone compounds which are useful herein include Dimethicone with tradename D-130, cetyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2502, stearyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2503, emulsified polydimethyl siloxanes with tradenames DC1664 and DC1784, and alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion with tradename DC2-2845; all available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan, USA), and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan) as described in GB application 2,303,857.
• Polypropylene Glycol Polypropylene glycol is especially preferred in the hair care composition of the present invention.
• the polypropylene glycol useful herein is selected from single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, multi-polypropylene glycol- chain segment polymers, and mixtures thereof, having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, preferably from about 1 ,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol.
• Polypropylene glycol may act as a humectant to provide moisturization benefits, and consequently deliver additional flyaway hair and bulk hair volume control benefits.
• a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula: HO-(C 3 H 6 O) a H wherein a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and more preferably from about 20 to about 40.
• the single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer useful herein is typically inexpensive, and is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan), Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).
• a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
• n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably from about 0 to about 7, and more preferably from about 1 to about 4.
• each R is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C ⁇ C ⁇ alkyl, and preferably each R is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C C 4 alkyl.
• c and d are independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1.
• the total of b + c + d is at least about 2, preferably the total of b + c + d is from about 2 to about 3.
• Each e is independently a value of 0 or 1 , if n is from about 1 to about 4, then e is preferably equal to 1.
• x, y, and z are independently a value of from about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, and more preferably from about 7 to about 100, where x + y + z is greater than about 20.
• the hair care compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers.
• the term "polymer” includes materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
• the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer.
• water soluble cationic polymer indicates a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water
• the preferred cationic polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration. If present, the cationic polymer is typically at a level of preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 3% by weight of the composition.
• the cationic polymers herein will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically from about 10,000 to about 10 million. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million.
• the cationic polymer will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.
• the cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers.
• the cationic polymer may comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units.
• spacer monomer units Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety may be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).
• the cationic charge density of the cationic polymer is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 0.5 meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, and still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram.
• Cationic charge density of the cationic polymer may be determined according to the Kjeldahl Method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of intended use.
• Suitable counter-ions include, for example, halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate.
• Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone.
• the cationic amines may be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
• the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C - C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C-j - C3 alkyl groups.
• Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol
• Amine-substituted vinyl monomers may be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally may be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines may also be similarly quatemized subsequent to formation of the polymer.
• tertiary amine functionalities may be quatemized by reaction with a salt of the formula R'X wherein R' is a short chain alkyl, preferably a Ci - C7 alkyl, more preferably a C1 - C3 alkyl, and X " is an anion which forms a water soluble salt with the quatemized ammonium.
• Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quatemized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.
• the alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the Ci - C3 alkyls, more preferably C and C2 alkyls.
• Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C - C7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C - C3, alkyls.
• the cationic polymers useful herein may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
• Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp.
• CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
• cationic polymers include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
• Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
• A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual
• R is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof
• R 1 , R2, and R3 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R 1 , R ⁇ and R3) preferably being about 20 or less
• X " is an anionic counterion, as previously described.
• Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
• CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
• Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®.
• cationic polymers that may be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series).
• Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581 , incorporated herein by reference.)
• Anti-microbial agents useful as encompassed material include those useful as cosmetic biocides and antidandruff agents including: water soluble components such as piroctone olamine, water insoluble components such as 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban and zinc pyrithione.
• compositions of the present invention may contain herbal extracts, including both water-soluble and water-insoluble herbal extracts.
• Useful herbal extracts herein include: Polygonatum multiflori extract, Houttuynia cordate extract, Phellodendron Bark extract, melilot extract, white dead nettle extract, licorice root extract, herbaceous peony extract, soapwort extract, dishcloth gourd extract, cinchona extract, creeping saxifrage extract, Sophora angustifolia extract, candock extract, common fennel extract, primrose extract, rose extract, Rehmannia glutinosa extract, lemon extract, shikon extract, alloe extract, iris bulb extract, eucalyptus extract, field horsetail extract, sage extract, thyme extract, tea extract, laver extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, raspberry extract, melissa extract, ginseng extract, carrot extract, horse chestnut extract, peach extract, peach leaf extract, mulberry extract, cornflower
• herbal extracts useful herein include Polygonatum multiflori extracts which are water soluble, and available from Institute of Occupational Medicine, CAPM, China National Light Industry, and Maruzen, and other herbal extracts listed above available from Maruzen.
• the hair care compositions herein may further contain other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
• compositions include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; vitamins and/or amino acids, such as vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai; surfactants such as a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid
• the alkyl ethoxylate described herein is combined with the gel matrix, along with any other additional components, and preferably homogenized, to form the hair care composition of the present invention.
• water is typically heated to at least about 70 °C, preferably between about 80 °C and about 90 °C.
• the cationic surfactant and the solid fatty compound are combined with the water to form a mixture.
• the temperature of the mixture is preferably maintained at a temperature higher than both the melting temperature of the cationic surfactant and the melting temperature of the solid fatty compound, and the entire mixture is homogenized.
• the mixture is gradually cooled (e.g., at a rate of about 2 °C/minute) to a temperature below 60 °C, preferably less than about 55 °C.
• the alkyl ethoxylate preferably a premix containing the alkyl ethoxylate, an oil, and any other additional components, is then added and mixed into the gel matrix, and cooled to room temperature. This results in a hair care composition containing the alkyl ethoxylate which possesses significantly improved stability and excellent performance.
• the alkyl ethoxylate is first entrapped within an oil, and then combined with the gel matrix.
• the oil and the alkyl ethoxylate are provided, preferably at a weight ratio of oil to alkyl ethoxylate of from about 5:1 to about 1 :1 , more preferably from about 4:1 to about 1 :1.5, and even more preferably from about 3:1 to about 2:1.
• the oil and the alkyl ethoxylate are then combined to form a premix having an HLB value of less than about 4, preferably less than about 3, and more preferably between about 1 and 3.
• the oil and the alkyl ethoxylate will be stirred from about 1 to about 15 minutes, at a temperature of from about 20 °C to about 50 °C, preferably from about 20 °C to about 25 °C, until the oil and the alkyl ethoxylate are homogenized.
• the premix may also contain other additional components, such as perfumes, and preservatives.
• the premix is then combined with the gel matrix at a temperature of at less than about 60 °C, preferably less than about 55 °C, and more preferably less than about 50 °C.
• the weight ratio of the premix to the gel matrix is from about 1 :1 to about 1 :99, preferably from about 1 :2 to about 1 :80, and more preferably from about 1 :5 to about 1 :50.
• the premix and the gel matrix are then homogenized, or mixed until the oil droplets are suspended within the gel matrix. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that by adding the premix at a lower temperature which is closer to the storage temperature of the final hair care composition, phase changes during storage are minimized, viscosity is maintained, and greater stability is achieved.
• this improved process entraps the alkyl ethoxylate within the oil itself.
• the trapped alkyl ethoxylate agent is much less likely to migrate into the aqueous phase.
• This process protects the alkyl ethoxylate from both water-induced (or assisted) degradation, and reduces the likelihood of phase changes. This in turn, results in the improved stability of compositions formed by this process.
• certain oils useful herein possess a strong affinity for hair, they may also serve to increase the deposition efficiency of the alkyl ethoxylate onto hair.
• the hair care composition of the present invention is suitable for use as, for example, hair cosmetic compositions, hair styling compositions, leave-on and/or rinse-off hair conditioning compositions. These hair care compositions are used in conventional ways to provide the conditioning, cleaning, styling, and/or other benefits of the present invention. Such method of use depends upon the type of composition employed but generally involves application of an effective amount of the product to the hair, which may then be rinsed from the hair (as in the case of hair rinses) or allowed to remain on the hair (as in the case of gels, lotions, and creams). "Effective amount” means an amount sufficient enough to provide the desired bulk hair reduction benefit. In general, from about 1 g to about 50 g is applied to the hair, and/or the scalp.
• the composition may be distributed throughout the hair, typically by rubbing or massaging the hair and scalp, or the composition may be selectively applied to certain parts of the hair.
• the composition is applied to wet or damp hair prior to drying of the hair. After such compositions are applied to the hair, the hair is dried and styled in accordance with the preference of the user.
• a hair styling composition it may be applied to dry hair, and the hair is then combed or styled in accordance with the preference of the user.
• the Image Analysis Protocol is a system and procedure which is designed to digitally measure and analyze the components of bulk hair area and flyaway hair area, which in turn form the total hair area.
• This protocol provides a quantifiable, repeatable method for accurately distinguishing, measuring, and comparing total hair area, flyaway hair area, and bulk hair area before and after treatment with a hair care composition.
• This total hair area, flyaway hair area, and bulk hair area directly correlate with total hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and bulk hair volume, respectively.
• the hair care compositions of the present invention provide a significant, noticeable reduction in the bulk hair area, preferably by at least about 10%, more preferably by at least about 15%, and even more preferably by at least about 25%, as measured by the method described, below.
• a reduction in bulk hair area correlates with one or more noticeable consumer-desirable benefits, such as enhanced manageability, and/or improved combability.
• reduced bulk hair area correlates with moisturized hair which is softer, more plastic, smooth, and flexible than hair which is dried out.
• the bulk hair area is reduced, because the hair is better aligned with other hairs and has less space in-between the individual hairs. Moisturized hair is also easier to comb and manage.
• Fig. 1 shows a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System useful herein.
• the Image Analysis System, 10, consists of a white screen, 12, lighting equipment, 14, a sample holder, 16, a high-resolution digital camera, 18, and a personal computer, 20.
• the sample holder, 16, is placed between the white screen, 12, and the high- resolution digital camera, 18.
• the sample holder, 16, is typically a clip or clamp which stably suspends a hair sample, 22, about 40 cm in front of the white screen, 12.
• the sample holder, 16, is typically about 80 cm from the high- resolution digital camera, 18, and positioned above the high-resolution camera's field of view, so that it is not visible in the captured images.
• the white screen, 12, is a matte-finish (e.g., non-glare) white-colored screen which is illuminated to provide a constant and repeatable background against which the hair sample, 22, is measured.
• the preferred lighting equipment, 14, consists of twin photography lights located on each side of the sample, and pointing towards the white screen. Each of these lights is preferably a twin florescent tube light contained within a lighting fixture, and is typically from about 20 cm to about 60 cm to the side of the sample holder, 16.
• the hair sample, 22, is not directly illuminated by the lighting equipment, 14. Instead, light is first reflected from the white screen, 12, and then passes through the hair sample, 22, in order to reach the high- resolution digital camera, 18.
• the high-resolution digital camera, 18, is focused on the hair sample, 22, and not the white screen, 12.
• the high- resolution digital camera, 18, is connected to a personal computer, 20, and automatically transfers the captured image to the computer's imaging software.
• a personal computer 20
• Such an arrangement provides a precise picture of the profile of the hair sample, 22, and avoids any glare and/or shadows which could interfere with measurement and analysis of the hair sample, 22.
• the Image Analysis System should be located away from air currents or other forces which would disturb the hair sample, and is in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, so as to ensure repeatable results.
• the high-resolution digital camera e.g., Model HC-2500 3-CCD from Fujifilm Co., of Tokyo, Japan
• the high-resolution digital camera is calibrated to a linear gain, so that the incremental difference between all brightness values (an 8-bit, 0-255 brightness scale) is equal.
• Such a calibration may be achieved via, for example, utilizing a standard gray-scale calibration cell and/or the high- resolution digital camera's internal look-up-table (LUT).
• the white screen when lit with the lighting equipment
• the typical hair sample consists of 15 cm (5 g) straight black Asian hair switches (available from Kawamuraya Co., Osaka, Japan) or straight brown Caucasian hair switches (available from International Hair Importers & products Inc., Bellerose, New York, U.S.A.).
• Straight black Asian hair switches are preferred, because their contrast against the white screen is more easily observable.
• the measurements using the Image Analysis Protocol are significantly easier and more reproducible when black hair switches are used.
• the hair area reduction benefits, and the corresponding hair volume reduction benefits, of the present invention are applicable to all types of hair switches. Further, it has been shown that the results achieved with hair switches are comparable to the results achieved during actual use on people.
• the hair sample is prepared as follows:
• Steps 9 and 10 are only performed for the treated hair samples.
• an "untreated picture” is first taken of a hair sample, and then a "treated picture” is taken.
• the untreated and treated bulk hair areas, flyaway hair areas, and total hair areas shown in the pictures, are then compared.
• the same hair switch is first used for the untreated hair sample, and then used for the treated hair sample, according to the procedure described above. Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.
• a hair sample (either treated, or untreated), 22, is prepared, it is placed on the sample holder, 16, in front of the white screen, 12.
• the distance from the high-resolution digital camera, 18, and the hair sample, 22, should be the same for both the untreated and treated pictures.
• the hair sample is aligned so that the widest profile (according to the bottom end of the hair sample) is captured by the high-resolution digital camera. This alignment approximates the way hair is arranged on the head, and therefore provides the most accurate view of the effect on hair area (and therefore hair volume), after treatment. This also assures an accurate measurement of the bulk hair area reduction, flyaway hair area reduction, and/or total hair area reduction effects.
• an 8-bit, gray-scale picture is taken with the high-resolution digital camera, 18.
• the high-resolution digital camera, 18, assigns each pixel a brightness value of from 0 (pure black) to 255 (pure white).
• the picture is then transferred to the personal computer, 20.
• the personal computer may assign each pixel a brightness value from 0 to 255.
• Such a picture is also referred to as a "captured image,” and may be saved electronically as, for example, a TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) file, for future reference.
• TIFF Tagged Image File Format
• each hair sample appears as gray-to-black on a white background.
• the imaging software e.g., Optimas v.
• the imaging software then defines "bulk hair" in the captured image as the largest continuous region bounded by black lines.
• the "flyaway hair” is defined as black, gray, and white regions bounded by one or more gray lines, excluding the bulk hair.
• the term "bounded" as used herein with respect to the imaging software indicates that the referred-to- area is completely surrounded by at least one line of the specified shade.
• the imaging software then calculates the area of each region, typically in cm 2 , to find the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area.
• the total hair area is the sum of the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area.
• the bulk hair area and/or the flyaway hair area may also be calculated as a percentage of the total hair area.
• the imaging software automatically sets the untreated total hair area equal to a value of 1.0, and normalizes the other values, accordingly.
• the imaging software may also outline and/or color code the bulk hair area and/or flyaway hair area for easy reference.
• the reduction in hair volume after treatment is based on comparing the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreated hair samples.
• the hair areas are calculated for the untreated total hair area (UTA), the untreated bulk hair area (UBA), and the untreated flyaway hair area (UFA). These are then compared to the calculated hair areas for the treated total hair area (TTA), the treated bulk hair area (TBA), and the treated flyaway hair area (TFA).
• a given hair care composition (or control) is typically tested on at least three separate hair samples.
• the bulk hair area reduction, flyaway hair area reduction, and total hair area reduction are then calculated for each hair sample, and an average bulk hair area reduction, average flyaway hair area reduction, and average total hair area reduction are calculated.
• two pictures of each treated and untreated hair sample are taken. The first picture corresponds to the widest profile of the hair sample, while the second picture corresponds to the most narrow profile of the hair sample, which is typically a 90 ° rotation from the widest profile.
• average values are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area, treated bulk hair area, etc. These average values are then employed in the above equations.
• Such a procedure is especially useful with hair samples which are slightly curved, due to their natural contours, or because of washing.
• a hair conditioning composition is formed by the following process. All percentages are by weight of the final hair care composition.
• a lamellar gel matrix is formed as follows: 83% deionized water is heated to about 85 °C, and 2% Stearamidopropyldimethylamine, available from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan), is mixed with 2.5% cetyl alcohol and 4.5% stearyl alcohol from Shin- nihon Rika (Tokyo, Japan), and 0.64% L-glutamic acid from Ajinomoto (Osaka, Japan). The mixture is maintained at a temperature of about 85 °C for about 5 minutes, until the components are homogenized, and no solids are observed. The mixture is then gradually cooled to about 55 °C and maintained at this temperature, until a lamellar gel matrix forms.
• 5% oleth-5 from Croda, Inc. (Parsippany, New Jersey, USA), having an HLB of 8.8, is combined with the lamellar gel matrix, by mixing for 15 minutes at a temperature of about 35 °C, to form a hair care composition.
• the following are also added to the lamellar gel matrix: a perfume, a preservative, and other minors.
• the hair care composition formed possesses significantly improved stability of the alkyl ethoxylate, and/or improved deposition efficiency. When applied to hair and measured according to the Image Analysis protocol, a significant, noticeable reduction in bulk hair area and total hair area is observed.
• Example 2 The following example is representative of the benefits of the present invention.
• Example 2 a rinse-off hair conditioning composition of the present invention was re ared accordin to the method described in Example 1.
• Example 2 provides a significant reduction in bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area.

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• 1999
  • 1999-09-03 WO PCT/US1999/020183 patent/WO2001017490A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
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  • 1999-09-03 AU AU58045/99A patent/AU5804599A/en not_active Abandoned
  • 1999-09-03 JP JP2001521282A patent/JP2003508474A/ja not_active Abandoned
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