Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
  • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method and apparatus for automatically producing tubular knitwear items provided with at least a brace, shoulder strap, loop and the like, and products obtained thereby.
• the introduction of "full electronic" circular knitting machines with differentiated diameters has attracted the industry's interest since the versatility of these machines allows to produce a wide range of semifinished tubular items such as bras, panties, dresses, trousers, skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical items and more.
• the Italian patent no. 1288310 by the same holder provides for different embodiments concerning shoulder straps, loops or braces, or sundry openings for legs and arms.
• Italian Patent no. 1255008 by the same holder (schematically shown in Figs. 7-8-8A-8B-9 referenced herein).
• the patent contemplates the manufacture of circular knitwear items characterised by fabric areas with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a limited number of needles, alternated relatively to the adjacent ones, for instance 1:1, or 2:2 - 2:1 and the like.
• the present invention aims at significantly reducing or eliminating altogether some of the aforesaid technical and productive limitations to obtain automatically knitwear items complete with shoulder straps, braces or various openings, preferably without fabric waste, with original economic, technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes .
• a main aim of the present invention is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitted garments provided with at least a shoulder strap, loop, brace and the like, preferably complete and also padded, produced automatically with the continuous motion of the cylinder of the needles.
• a further aim consists of a method and related apparatus for manufacturing said tubular knitted items, provided with one or more sufficiently ample openings, with double welt or edges, also padded, for aesthetic or functional purposes, obtained directly in the circular machine during manufacturing and hence without the additional cutting and sewing operations.
• Another aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the production of tubular knitwear items with braces or complete openings provided with simple or multiple edges, i.e. with multiple layers, produced both with the aid of the plateau or other needle bed, or with just the selection of needles or sinkers.
• Another aim is to provide a method for manufacturing tubular items provided with braces whereon preferably tubular sleeves complete with cuffs are subsequently sewn.
• a further aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular items also in 00/71794
• the above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more shoulder straps, loops or braces, in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed.
• the method comprises the following steps: producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course, producing a second length of tubular fabric by automatic and programmed resumption of the predetermined number of needles of the needlebed in the knit forming process (the second length starts with a first stitch course) and producing at least a third length of tubular knitted fabric.
• the method according to the present invention is 00/71794
• the third length of tubular knitted fabric comprises at least an active portion and at least a passive portion connected to the active portion, the passive portion being produced by excluding a predetermined number of needles of the needlebed from the knit forming process for a predetermined time interval.
• the method according to the present invention comprises also the step of varying the knit density in the active portion with respect to the passive portion of the tubular knitted fabric.
• the method comprises also the production of at least a side opening, the active portion surrounding at least partially a boundary of said side opening and the passive portion being said boundary of said side opening; in particular, during the step of producing said second length of tubular knitted fabric the needles excluded from the knit formation process are adjacent with each other or alternatively are chosen according to a predetermined sequence along the needlebed.
• figure 1 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which a panty to be cut or sewn is defined by dashed lines
• figure 2 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which an undershirt to be cut or sewn is defined by dashed lines
• figures 3, 4 and 5 show the progressive transformation of a knit tube into a bra provided with shoulder straps
• figure 6 shows a brief or a panty obtained with the method according to the present invention
• figures 7, 8 and 9 technically show the sequences for the production of the three-dimensional knit frills Bi;
• Figures 8A and 8B show schematically the knit effects produced with the aforementioned internal frills Bi, arranged horizontally and diagonally; figure 10 technically shows an "embossed” or cellular stitch structure; figures 11, 12 and 13 show the so-called “tuck stitch” of a needle in a knitting machine; figures 14, 15 and 16 and 17 show the missing stitch or welt of the needle of figures 11, 12 and 13; figures 18, 19, 20, 20A, 20B, 21, 22 and 23 show various embodiments of knitwear items obtained in accordance with the invention; figures 24, 25 and 26 technically show the sequences for the discharging of the last knit loops; figure 27 shows schematically a latch-opening device in a knitting machine in accordance with the present invention; figure 28 is an enlarged view of a latch needle; and figures 29, 30 and 31 show double edges produced in accordance with the present invention, padded with additional threads.
• the present invention exploits the teachings of Italian Patent no. 1255008, whose main features have been sintetically discussed hereabove.
• Said floating threads FF can be further manipulated with the use of some working needles, Fig. 8, duly distanced, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating threads and to create - if need be - interesting stitch interlacing or three-dimensional internal frills or flounces Bi.
• the invention is also obtained by further manipulating the aforesaid floating threads FF transforming them into stitched fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the involved areas or zones .
• Fig. 9 (corresponding to a high number of stitch courses), is the sufficient and necessary condition for the manufacture of an original knitted fabric, formed by the working needles and related loops AD but interrupted and still interlaced with the excluded needles and loops AP, in order to produce a closed knit flounce, with two layers or fabrics Bi, Fig. 8, inside the usual tubular fabric.
• This growth of supplementary stitching or frill Bi is characterised on the front of the knitted fabric by a perfect suture caused by the elongation of the loops or stitches of the needles AP not working and hence excluded from the manufacture of the aforesaid frill, which is repeatable or variable in height and width.
• the three- dimensional frills Bi are particularly attractive also arranged in small repeated diagonals, so as to accentuate anatomic comfort and support or modify the usual appearance of the jersey fabric.
• the invention is initially implemented by setting up a work cycle and a jacquard design, i.e. information directed or precluded to the needles and a jacks or other elements concurring directly or indirectly in the production of the fabric, by means of a usual graphic station or control or memory devices or by means of electro-mechanical, magnetic, optical apparatuses, and other means suitable for the purpose in any way.
• a jacquard design i.e. information directed or precluded to the needles and a jacks or other elements
• the stitched tube of Figure 3 starts from the double edge 2A with a continuous selection of alternating needles, for instance the odd ones, or with all needles operating and with the aid of the hooks of the plateau (not shown) .
• the production of stitched fabric continues in the area 30, characterised by knit structures able to improve the resistance of the fabric against unravelling (Figs. 13-14). Therefore, the automatic release or discharge of the loops B, Fig. 23, or stitched by the needles A along the lines or openings 5 - 5A, of Figs. 3 and 4, is preceded by a preparatory phase with the possibly automatic variation of the stitching density, together with the use of suitable additional threads, also elastomeric or thermo-adhesive, the latter subject to partial melting interlacing also to the adjacent loops during the subsequent finishing.
• the release or discharge of the individual loops or stitches of a part of the needles can be conducted according to multiple requirements or technical or textile factors.
• the machine and work cycle is set to the "zero" position, all feeds and yarn feeders are excluded and the hooks U of the needles A whereon the last loops B are engaged, are preferably below the working plane of the sinkers.
• this readying phase (not shown) only the programmed needles, as a rule grouped and adjacent, are sent to the ascent cam without yarn in a single feed to lift completely.
• a latch opener device AL for their forced opening.
• the described procedure is shown schematically in Fig. 27: the latch L is still against the hook U inside which a metal latch- opening tip AL is automatically positioned until the latch L is opened and upset in the direction of the arrow F .
• Fig. 28 shows a plan view of a fraction of the cylinder CYL, rotating in the direction of the arrow F.
• the hook U adhering to the latch L, finds on the obligated ascent path the latch opener AL, inserted for that purpose.
• the method for forming the stitching starts again with a simple or double edge or welt, i.e. one with single or double fabric, or else, depending on the item being produced, after the intervention of the mechanical or pneumatic elements serving as latch openers (in other embodiments the latch is opened by means of an appropriate blast of compressed air coming from above, or by means of a thin foil able to be inserted between the hook and the tab or yet other means) .
• the total and programmed interruption of the stitch-forming process of a part of the needles of the cylinder, for defined zones or areas of stitching, followed by the automatic and programmed resumption of the stitch-forming process preferably of the same needles and defined stitching areas produces the total and controlled separation of at least two theoretically consecutive stitching courses, in turn characterised in that the former represents the last row of the produced stitching, whilst the second represents the first stitching row produced preferably with the same needles, after the aforesaid interruption.
• the needles are programmed to operate in a group, i.e. a variable plurality of adjacent needles, directly related to the amplitude of the envisioned opening.
• Figure 4 shows an enlarged view of a particular of figure 3: the double initial elastic edge (11) is marked with reference numeral 2A.
• 5A indicates the produced opening; 8 and 9 the stitching edges adjacent to the opening, which are also provided with double layer edges, indicated as 10, similar to edges 20A, and obtainable in various manners: with the usual needles or hooks of the plateau selected for the purpose, or with a part of the needles of the cylinder, for instance the odd needles AD of Figure 8 which continue to produce stitching whilst the even needles AP hold the respective last loops.
• an internal frill Bi (Fig. 8) is produced, or stitching with three-dimensional growth widely adjustable in amplitude, height and diagonally.
• Fig. 8 is produced, or stitching with three-dimensional growth widely adjustable in amplitude, height and diagonally.
• the internal padding is obtained with three-dimensional stitching effects such as terry cloth and the like, or with the production of the aforementioned frills Bi, Fig. 31, also repeated, placed inside the double welt DB.
• said edge 2A is detached or separated, then opened laterally with the two loops produced automatically, which, lifted according to the arrows FI and F2, assume the shape and the functions of the shoulder straps 20 - 21.
• the reference DB indicates the double edge produced after the formation of the brace 20.
• the stitching areas indicated as 11 - 13 - 14 can be produced with different knit structures, such as the ones shown in Table 2, according to current needs and variables .
• the central area 12 is structurally and functionally connected to the upper part Y of the braces 20 and 21 or to the other adjacent areas, able to support, by themselves or in mutual relationship, in a widely differentiated manner, the breasts.
• the knitwear item 1 represents a panty obtained from a tubular fabric with double elastic edge 2A, having a functional opening 03 provided with double edge DB together with the lateral edges 5 - 5A produced in accordance with the invention.
• the bottom stitching can be produced with different knitted structures, besides the open-work T, obtained with the aforementioned techniques.
• the present invention is at the origin of the products in Figure 18: the bodice-bra 1 and the skirt 2 which are respectively characterised by the presence of the upper shoulder straps or supporting braces 20 - 21, which may also be multiple, or by the lateral loop 22 similar to the lower openings 22 A in correspondence with the hips.
• the fabric of the aforesaid items is characterised by the knit structures obtainable in accordance with the present invention, also with a plurality or prevalence of tuck stitches, Figs. 10 - 11 - 12 -13, or welts, Figs. 14 and 15, together with one or more internal knit flounces Bi, Figure 8-8A-8B-9.
• Fig. 19 shows a panty sewn in correspondence with S and provided with elastic upper edge 2A which is divided in two parts on the hips, together with other double edges or borders DB.
• the central open-work part T is further characterised by flounces in areas Bi.
• Figure 20 shows another knitwear item falling within the scope of the invention
• the tubular item 1 is provided with shoulder straps or braces 20-21 obtained according to the invention and completed with additional sleeves Ml - M2 preferably tubular, provided with at least a double edge DB and sewn in correspondence with the suture lines S - S2.
• additional sleeves Ml - M2 preferably tubular, provided with at least a double edge DB and sewn in correspondence with the suture lines S - S2.
• such sleeves are provided with two double edges, one of which is destined to be sewn on the exterior part of the shoulder strap or brace: thus with a simple circular seam practically free of cuts and the deriving scrap, a finished article is obtained lacking longitudinal or visible seams.
• Figure 20A schematically shows a tubular item 1 provided with the upper and lower double edges DB, with an upper knit area MS with open-work interlacing T ending before the elastic edge BE in median position; followed by the lower knit part MI.
• the loops are released to create the shoulder straps - braces described previously.
• the lower part MI is folded inwards into the upper part MS so that the resulting knitwear item is formed by two concentric fabrics, provided with a variable number of shoulder straps or braces (as shown in figure 20B) , or a knitwear item provided with shoulder straps 20 - 21, lower elastic edge BE and an original 00/71794
• FIG. 21 Another application of the invention is shown schematically in Fig. 21; the knitwear item 1, indifferently a sock, or a technical item or other item, is provided with a single loop or double upper edge DB, or, as in Fig. 22, is provided with at least two support braces instead of the usual elastic edge.
• the knitwear item 1 of Figure 23 also falls within the scope of the present invention.
• the interruption and programmed resumption of the knit formation process produces the single neck loop 2 (rear 2A) together with the central opening 03 provided with the double edges DB in correspondence with the chest.
• Figure 29 is a partial view of the knit tube 1, provided with the usual welt or two-layer edge DB.
• Fig. 30 is a variation whereby inside said double edge additional padding threads or fibres Y have been inserted, with the presence of the internal waste .
• Fig. 31 the aforementioned double edge is padded with a plurality of internal frills Bi and characterised by an external waste W.

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (2)

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ID=11348056

Family Applications (1)

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• 1999
  • 1999-05-24 IT IT1999CO000018A patent/ITCO990018A1/it unknown
• 2000
  • 2000-05-19 WO PCT/IT2000/000203 patent/WO2000071794A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-05-19 IL IL14624800A patent/IL146248A0/xx unknown
  • 2000-05-19 KR KR1020017014602A patent/KR20010112492A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-05-19 AU AU49479/00A patent/AU4947900A/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-05-19 JP JP2000620162A patent/JP2003500558A/ja active Pending
  • 2000-05-19 DE DE60007303T patent/DE60007303D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2000-05-19 CN CN00807641A patent/CN1350606A/zh active Pending
  • 2000-05-19 CA CA002372953A patent/CA2372953A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-05-19 EP EP00931531A patent/EP1181405B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 2000-05-19 AT AT00931531T patent/ATE256777T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation

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