EP1165032A1 - Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische zubereitungen - Google Patents

Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische zubereitungen

Info

Publication number
EP1165032A1
EP1165032A1 EP00909300A EP00909300A EP1165032A1 EP 1165032 A1 EP1165032 A1 EP 1165032A1 EP 00909300 A EP00909300 A EP 00909300A EP 00909300 A EP00909300 A EP 00909300A EP 1165032 A1 EP1165032 A1 EP 1165032A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
glucans
acids
fatty
contain
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00909300A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Ute Griesbach
Rolf Wachter
Achim Ansmann
Bernd Fabry
Rolf E. Engstad
Thomas Otto Gassenmeier
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Arcticzymes Technologies ASA
Original Assignee
Biotec ASA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Biotec ASA filed Critical Biotec ASA
Publication of EP1165032A1 publication Critical patent/EP1165032A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations which contain mixtures of special glucans and nucleic acids.
  • the pigmentation of normal skin leads to the formation of melanins under the influence of solar radiation. Irradiation with long-wave UV-A light causes the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis to darken without any damaging consequences, while the short-wave UV-B radiation causes the formation of new melanin. Before the protective pigment can be formed, however, the skin is exposed to the unfiltered radiation, which, depending on the duration of exposure, can lead to skin redness (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) or even burn blisters.
  • the stress on the organism associated with such skin lesions for example in connection with the release of histamines, can additionally lead to headache, weariness, fever, cardiovascular disorders and the like.
  • French patent application FR-A1 2511253 in which skin and sun protection agents with a content of highly polymerized DNA are proposed.
  • Cosmetic compositions with nucleic acids and diisopropylamine dichloroacetate are known from Japanese Offenlegungsschrift JP-A2 62/096404 (Kanebo).
  • French patent FR-B1 2620024 (Soc.d'Etudes Dermatticians) relates to preparations containing nucleic acid derivatives as radical scavengers. Examples are adenine, guanosine, xanthine, hypoxanthine, uracil and ribonucleic acid.
  • the complex object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations which penetrate into the uppermost layers of the skin when applied topically or penetrate into the keratin fibers during hair care and there both the tissue and the cells directly in front Protect the harmful effects of UV rays, the film formation on the hair and the regulation of the water and metabolism balance in the skin support the film formation on the hair and thus bring about a vitalization.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing
  • the preparations according to the invention are further distinguished by the fact that they mildly irritate and irritate the skin and stimulate the water and metabolism in the skin, so that, for example, the formation of wrinkles as a result of drying out due to excessive sun exposure is also counteracted. Film formation on the hair is also supported.
  • glucans is understood to mean homopolysaccharides based on glucose. Depending on the steric linkage, a distinction is made between ß- (1, 3) -, ß- (1,4) - and ß- (1,6) -glucans.
  • ß- (1, 3) -glucans usually have a helical structure, while glucans with a 1, 4-linkage generally have a linear structure.
  • the ⁇ -glucans of the invention have a (1, 3) structure, i.e. they are largely free of undesirable (1, 6) links.
  • Such ß - (1, 3) -glucans are preferably used, the side chains of which have only (1, 3) linkages.
  • the agents contain glucans which are obtained on the basis of yeasts from the Saccharomyces family, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
  • glucans of this type are accessible by the methods of the prior art.
  • International patent application WO 95/30022 (Biotec-Mackzymal) describes a process for the preparation of such substances in which glucans with ⁇ - (1, 3) and ⁇ - (1,6) linkages in such a manner with ⁇ - (1, 6) -glucanases brings into contact that practically all of the ⁇ - (1,6) linkages are released.
  • Glucanases based on Trichodermia harzianum are preferably used to prepare the glucans.
  • DNA or RNA are understood to mean high-molecular, filiform polynucleotides which are derived from 2'-deoxy- ⁇ -D-ribonucleosides or D-ribonucleosides, which in turn are derived from equivalent amounts of a nucleobase and the Pentose 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose or D-ribofuranose.
  • the DNA or RNA can contain the purine derivatives adenine and guanine and the pyrimidines cytosine and thymine or uracii as nucleobases.
  • the nucleobases are N-glycosidic with carbon atom 1 of the ribose, which in individual cases produces adenosines, guanosines, cytidines and thimidines.
  • a phosphate group links the 5'-hydroxy group of the nucleosides with the 3'-OH group of the following ones through a phosphodiester bridge to form single-stranded DNA or RNA. Due to the large ratio of length to diameter, DNA or RNA molecules tend to break strands even when subjected to mechanical stress, for example during extraction. For this reason, the molecular weight of the nucleic acids can range from 10 3 to 10 9 daltons.
  • RNA solutions are used which are distinguished by a liquid-crystalline behavior.
  • Deoxy- or ribonucleic acids are preferably used, which are obtained from marine sources, for example by extraction of fish sperm, and which have a molecular weight in the range from 40,000 to 1,000,000 daltons.
  • the nucleic acids can be present both as helices and as single strands and as their fragments.
  • the use of deoxyribonucleic acids of marine origin with a molecular weight in the range from 50,000 to 100,000 daltons is particularly preferred.
  • the preparations contain
  • the preparations according to the invention can be present, for example, as aqueous solutions, lotions, creams, oils, gels, sticks and the like, and furthermore, as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulators, superfatting agents, Pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicon compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection filters, antioxidants, inorganic color pigments, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, self-tanning agents, solubilizers, self-tanning agents, Contain dyes and the like.
  • Suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyvalent ones Alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • triglycerides based on C6-C ⁇ o fatty acids liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids
  • esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols - get and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs
  • polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimer isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;
  • partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, - coside) and polygiucosides (eg cellulose);
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • C12 / 18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • C ⁇ / i ⁇ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylate -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S ⁇ 3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylisarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 bisacidic acids 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
  • quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin, and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
  • the main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfat acids into consideration.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylgiucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrowed homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as Cooking salt and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium seeds and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers e.g. Mirapol® A
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxyproyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrroiidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam and optionally silicate-cellulose
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • fats are glycerides
  • waxes include natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax,
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Biogenic active substances are to be understood to mean, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates are suitable as deodorant active ingredients. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated.
  • Aluminum chlorohydrate is used to manufacture antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J. Soc. Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)].
  • there is an aluminum chlorohydrate commercially available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG, which corresponds to the formula [AI 2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H 2 0 and whose use is particularly preferred [cf.
  • esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited.
  • trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • the cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on
  • Sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, malonate, adipate and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester.
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, malonate, adipate and diethyl malonate
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric
  • Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations.
  • Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate.
  • 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol which is sold under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective.
  • Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or source agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP-B1 0693471;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenyicinnamate 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylic acid;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; • Triazinden ⁇ vate, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP-A1 0818450 ;
  • Propane-1,3-dione e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
  • benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
  • typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • Combinations of octocrylene or camphor derivatives with butyl methoxydibenzoyimethane are characterized by their special photostability.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens.
  • Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
  • UV light protection factors can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996). Vegetable extracts with UV-absorbing or anti-oxidative properties are also suitable.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathion) in very low n compatible dosages (e.g.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Lower alkyl glucosides in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Aminosugars such as glucamine
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3535 insect repellants are suitable as insect repellants, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylateylateylateylatepylateylatepylpropionate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethylionon and methylcedr the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • germ-inhibiting agents are preservatives with a specific action against gram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydi ⁇ henyl ether, chlorhexidine (1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide).
  • gram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydi ⁇ henyl ether, chlorhexidine (1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide).
  • Numerous fragrances and essential oils also have antimicrobial properties.
  • Typical examples are the active substances eugenol, menthol and thymol in clove, mint and thyme oil.
  • terpene alcohol famesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), which is present in linden blossom oil and has a lily of the valley smell.
  • Glycerol monolaurate has also proven itself as a bacteriostatic.
  • the proportion of the additional germ-inhibiting agents is usually about 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the solids content of the preparations.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
  • Toxicology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Material From Animals Or Micro-Organisms (AREA)
  • Preparation Of Compounds By Using Micro-Organisms (AREA)
EP00909300A 1999-03-12 2000-03-03 Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische zubereitungen Withdrawn EP1165032A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19911053 1999-03-12
DE1999111053 DE19911053B4 (de) 1999-03-12 1999-03-12 Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen
PCT/EP2000/001838 WO2000054743A1 (de) 1999-03-12 2000-03-03 Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische zubereitungen

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EP (1) EP1165032A1 (ja)
JP (1) JP4820005B2 (ja)
KR (1) KR20010114219A (ja)
CN (1) CN1191055C (ja)
AU (1) AU775061B2 (ja)
CA (1) CA2367304C (ja)
DE (1) DE19911053B4 (ja)
WO (1) WO2000054743A1 (ja)

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WO2002007681A2 (en) * 2000-07-21 2002-01-31 Lyles Mark B Sunscreen formulations containing nucleic acids
EP1281392A1 (de) * 2001-08-02 2003-02-05 Cognis France S.A. Kosmetische und/oder pharmaceutische Zubereitungen enthaltend Pflanzenextrakte
DE10150412A1 (de) * 2001-10-11 2003-04-17 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung einer oder mehreren Substanzen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Pyrimidine und Purine in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut
JP2003277221A (ja) * 2002-03-22 2003-10-02 Takeshi Fukuda 皮膚外用剤
US7754677B2 (en) * 2003-12-05 2010-07-13 Hill's Pet Nutrition, Inc. Composition and method for reducing diarrhea in a mammal
CN101180034B (zh) * 2005-06-13 2012-06-06 日生生物股份有限公司 毛发护理制剂
KR20080048481A (ko) * 2005-08-17 2008-06-02 마리 케이 인코포레이티드 썬리스 태닝 조성물
JP5025253B2 (ja) * 2006-03-31 2012-09-12 日生バイオ株式会社 基礎化粧品用配合剤及び基礎化粧品
EP2068848A4 (en) * 2006-08-02 2009-11-11 Yin-Xiong Li ENHANCED FILTERS THAT ABSORB A BROAD SPECTRUM OF UV AND ASSOCIATED METHODS
JP2008133402A (ja) * 2006-11-29 2008-06-12 Fine Co Ltd 核酸を用いた紫外線吸収剤
US20080161229A1 (en) * 2006-12-21 2008-07-03 Nissei Bio Co., Ltd. Compounding ingredients for basic cosmetics and basic cosmetics
CN102112103B (zh) * 2008-07-28 2013-06-26 花王株式会社 烷基硫代糖苷在对光老化所产生的皱纹的改善剂的制造中的用途及改善方法

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AU3163500A (en) 2000-10-04
CN1348356A (zh) 2002-05-08
JP4820005B2 (ja) 2011-11-24
DE19911053A1 (de) 2000-09-21
CN1191055C (zh) 2005-03-02
CA2367304A1 (en) 2000-09-21
KR20010114219A (ko) 2001-12-31
WO2000054743A1 (de) 2000-09-21
CA2367304C (en) 2010-12-07
US6706696B1 (en) 2004-03-16
DE19911053B4 (de) 2004-10-28
AU775061B2 (en) 2004-07-15

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