Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S424/00—Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
  • Y10S424/01—Aerosol hair preparation
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S424/00—Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
  • Y10S424/02—Resin hair settings

Definitions

• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polymer (A) with particular characteristics and at least one additive (B), the latter being chosen such that the film formed on the hair after application of the cosmetic composition retains its mechanical properties whatever the hygrometric conditions.
• A film-forming polymer
• B additive
• It also relates to a process for shaping or maintaining hair using this composition as well as its use for the formulation of cosmetic products such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, with a view to obtaining the maintenance or shaping the hairstyle.
• compositions according to the invention can be applied to the skin, nails, lips, hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.
• the term “styling composition” means compositions for maintaining and / or fixing the hair.
• compositions for spraying in an aerosol or in a pump bottle such as lacquers, sprays or foams, essentially consisting of a more often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and of a film-forming polymer soluble in water or in alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.
• these hair products After application to the hair, these hair products generally form a film which maintains the hairstyle in the shape desired by the user.
• the polymers present in the composition it is already possible to modify the mechanical properties of this film, such as hardness, elasticity or elongation at break, and this under given conditions of humidity and temperature.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
• At least one additive (B) chosen from linear non-oxyalkylenated silicones functionalized or not, oxyalkylenated silicones, alkyl ethers of alkylene glycols or of polyalkylene glycols comprising alkyl to C 15 and polyurethanes having polyether units and / or polycarbonates.
• Another object of the present invention relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
• Yet another object of the present invention relates to the use of at least one additive (B) chosen from non-oxyalkylenated linear silicones, functionalized or not, oxyalkylenated silicones, alkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol alkyl ethers comprising alkyl groups in Ci to C ⁇ 5l polyurethanes comprising polyether and / or polycarbonate units, in cosmetic compositions, with a view to preserving the mechanical profile of the film obtained by drying said cosmetic composition, passing from a humid atmosphere to a dry atmosphere .
• B additive chosen from non-oxyalkylenated linear silicones, functionalized or not, oxyalkylenated silicones, alkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol alkyl ethers comprising alkyl groups in Ci to C ⁇ 5l polyurethanes comprising polyether and / or polycarbonate units
• a very particular object of the invention relates to the use of at least one such additive (B) in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one film-forming polymer (A) chosen such that a film obtained by drying a mixture of said composition, in a humid or dry atmosphere, has a mechanical profile defined by " at least:
• the polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the names Avalure AC 315® and V29®.
• the term “humid atmosphere” means, for example, the environment obtained by an atmosphere of air with a water vapor content of approximately 12 grams to 13 grams per kilogram of dry air.
• dry atmosphere for example, the environment obtained by an air atmosphere with a water vapor content of about 7 grams per kilogram of dry air.
• the term film obtained by drying in a wet or dry atmosphere means the film obtained under these conditions from a mixture of 6% active material (ma) of polymer A, alone or in the presence of additive B, with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adapted to obtain, in a teflo ⁇ matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ⁇ 50 ⁇ m. Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days.
• Polymers A soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol.
• the other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.
• the rate of elongation at break and the recovery rate are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
• the film is cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, length 80 mm and width 15 mm.
• the tests are carried out on an apparatus marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same conditions as for drying, that is to say a water vapor content of the atmosphere of 13 grams. per kilogram of dry air.
• test pieces are drawn at a speed of 20mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ⁇ 1 mm.
• the stress is relaxed by imposing a return speed equal to the traction speed, ie 20mm / min and the elongation of the test piece is measured in percentage, after return to zero load ( ⁇ ).
• R ⁇ (( ⁇ ma ⁇ - ⁇ i) / ⁇ ma ⁇ ) x 100
• the specimen having undergone the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds, and its percentage elongation is measured.
• R300 (( ⁇ ma -8300) ⁇ max ) x 100
• non-oxyalkylenated silicone means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, volatile or not, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms by forming a siloxane bond ⁇ Si-O-Si ⁇ , hydrocarbon radicals, optionally substituted, being directly linked d 'a carbon atom on said silicon atoms.
• the most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular dC 10 and in particular methyl, as well as fluoroalkyl radicals.
• the non-oxyalkylenated silicones can be polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes or polyarysiloxanes such as polyphenylsiloxanes, or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as polymethyl phenyl siloxanes.
• Non-oxyalkylenated silicones can also be modified, for example by carboxylic groups.
• the products marketed under the brand Oil M 642, SLM 23,000/1 or SLM 23,000/2 by the company WACKER are used, or under the brand 176-12057 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, or under the brand FZ 3703. by the OSI Company, or under the brand
• the number-average molecular mass of the silicone polymer is between approximately 10,000 and 1,000,000, and even more preferably between approximately 10,000 and 100,000.
• non-oxyalkylenated silicones which are particularly suitable for implementing the present invention are silicones comprising at least one substituent containing at least two groups, identical or different, chosen from carboxylic acids or their salts, amides and esters , at least one of these groups being a carboxylic acid or its salts.
• Such silicones are, for example, marketed under the brand SLM 23 105 by the company WACKER and under the brand DENSODRIN OF by the company BASF.
• Volatile silicones can also be used.
• the oxyalkylenated silicones are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (I):
• - Ri identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical>
• - R 3 identical or different, is chosen from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an acyl radical, linear or branched having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, - n varies from 0 to 1000,
• - b varies from 0 to 50, - a + b is greater than or equal to 1,
• - x varies from 1 to 5, the number average molecular weight being greater than or equal to 15,000 and preferably between 25,000 and 75,000.
• the oxyalkylenated silicones of general formula (I) are used which correspond to at least one of, and preferably to all, the following conditions:
• R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an acetyl radical and preferably hydrogen.
• - p varies from 2 to 6.
• - a is between 5 and 40 and preferably between 15 and 30.
• - b is between 5 and 40 and preferably between 15 and 30.
• - n varies from 20 to 600, preferably from 50 to 500 and even more particularly from 200 to 500.
• silicones are for example those sold in solution at 10% by weight in a cyclomethicone (DOW CORNING 344) under the trade name FLUID DC 3225 C by the company DOW CORNING or that sold under the name SILWET L 7001 by UNION CARBIDE, as well as that marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 190.
• anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes such as polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas / polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising, alone or as a mixture,
• the polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulphonic acid or sulphonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.
• a diisocyanate for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
• a bifunctional organic compound for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
• the polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are the polyurethanes PA Marin UA200® and PA Marin UA310® marketed by SANYO, and Polyderm R marketed by ALZO.
• alkyl ethers of alkylene glycols and of polyalkylene glycols which can be used as additive (s) (B) in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned, in particular, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether and their mixtures.
• additive (B) oxyalkylenated silicones and polyurethanes are used, and among these, polyether polyurethanes are preferred.
• the film-forming polymer (s) (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15 % by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the additive (B) is a non-oxyalkylenated silicone modified by one or more carboxylic, alkoxy, sulfonate, thiol, hydroxyl, amino, hydroxyacylamino, or unmodified polydialkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane or polyalkylarylsiloxane groups.
• the additive (s) (B) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• concentrations of polymer (s) (A) and of additives (B) are advantageously chosen, so that the ratio of the concentration of polymer (A) to the concentration of polymer (B) is between 4000 and 0.002.
• the cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (s), these solvents being preferably C ⁇ -C 4 alcohols.
• ethanol isopropanol.
• Ethanol is particularly preferred.
• composition of the invention may also contain at least one conventional cosmetic additive chosen from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, fixing or non-fixing, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, other than those of the invention, oils mineral, vegetable or synthetic, ceramides, pseudoceramides and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.
• a conventional cosmetic additive chosen from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, fixing or non-fixing, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, other than those of the invention, oils mineral, vegetable or synthetic, ceramides, pseudoceramides and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.
• compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump dispensers or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam.
• forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for fixing or treating the hair.
• the compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.
• composition according to the invention when packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a halogenated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant. Mixtures of propellants can also be used. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.
• volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a halogenated hydrocarbon and their mixtures.
• Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant.
• Mixtures of propellants can also be used.
• dimethyl ether is used.
• the propellant is present at a concentration between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration between 10 and 60%.
• the compositions according to the invention can be applied to dry or damp hair.
• compositions for holding and / or fixing the hairstyle are produced in accordance with the present invention comprising, as polymer (A), Avalure AC315 and, as additive (B), either the polyurethane PA Marin UA 200® sold by SANYO, the silicone DC190 sold by Dow Corning.
• a composition is also produced in accordance with the prior art comprising only Avalure AC315. Table 1 below summarizes the formulations produced.
• the flexibility and elasticity of the films obtained on the hair by drying the compositions according to the invention comprising a polymer (A) and an additive (B) are practically constant, passing from a dry atmosphere to a humid atmosphere.
• the variation in these properties is clear for the composition according to the prior art comprising Avalure AC315 alone, and this for both flexibility and elasticity.
• compositions 1 to 3 are applied in aerosol form (65% juice, 35% DME), to Eurochâtain hair wigs. After conditioning these wigs for 2 hours in a humid or dry atmosphere, a panel of experts notes the behavior of the hairstyle. The following results are obtained, collated in Table 3 below. Table 3
• compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention provide independent maintenance of the degree of humidity.

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• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

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• 1999
  • 1999-11-19 FR FR9914596A patent/FR2801204B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2000
  • 2000-11-10 JP JP2001537705A patent/JP2003513999A/ja not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-11-10 BR BR0008909-5A patent/BR0008909A/pt not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-11-10 PL PL00348862A patent/PL348862A1/xx not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-11-10 KR KR1020017009094A patent/KR20010089614A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-11-10 AU AU17112/01A patent/AU768024B2/en not_active Ceased
  • 2000-11-10 MX MXPA01007255A patent/MXPA01007255A/es unknown
  • 2000-11-10 CA CA002360430A patent/CA2360430A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-11-10 RU RU2001123246/14A patent/RU2219900C2/ru not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2000-11-10 EP EP00979713A patent/EP1146847A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-11-10 WO PCT/FR2000/003148 patent/WO2001035911A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-11-10 US US09/889,505 patent/US6749837B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
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• 2004
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