EP1129684B1 - Nanoémulsion à base de lipides amphiphiles et de polymères cationiques et utilisation en cosmétologie - Google Patents

Nanoémulsion à base de lipides amphiphiles et de polymères cationiques et utilisation en cosmétologie Download PDF

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EP1129684B1
EP1129684B1 EP00403527A EP00403527A EP1129684B1 EP 1129684 B1 EP1129684 B1 EP 1129684B1 EP 00403527 A EP00403527 A EP 00403527A EP 00403527 A EP00403527 A EP 00403527A EP 1129684 B1 EP1129684 B1 EP 1129684B1
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nanoemulsion
alkyl
nanoemulsion according
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EP1129684A2 (fr
EP1129684A3 (fr
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Véronique Douin
Bénédicte Cazin
Sandrine Decoster
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B82—NANOTECHNOLOGY
    • B82Y—SPECIFIC USES OR APPLICATIONS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MEASUREMENT OR ANALYSIS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MANUFACTURE OR TREATMENT OF NANOSTRUCTURES
    • B82Y5/00—Nanobiotechnology or nanomedicine, e.g. protein engineering or drug delivery
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/21—Emulsions characterized by droplet sizes below 1 micron
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water nanoemulsion whose oil globules have a mean size of less than 150 nm and comprising at least one amphiphilic lipid preferably nonionic or anionic and at least one cationic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic sequence and at least one hydrophilic sequence and their use in topical application especially in cosmetics and dermopharmacy.
  • Oil-in-water emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermopharmacy, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products such as lotions, tonics, serums, toilet waters.
  • compositions are generally unstable in storage and the cosmetic properties are insufficient.
  • application of such compositions on the hair leads to a greasy feel, a difficulty of rinsing.
  • dried hair is without volume and has a loaded feel.
  • nanoemulsion it is meant a metastable O / W emulsion, the size of the oily globules of which is less than 150 nm, oily globules stabilized by a ring of amphiphilic lipids that may optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type located at the oil / phase interface aqueous.
  • the transparency of these emulsions comes from the small size of the oily globules, a small size obtained thanks to the use in particular of a high-pressure homogenizer.
  • Nanoemulsions are to be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure.
  • Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions consisting of micelles of lipid (s) amphiphilic (s) swollen by oil. In addition microemulsions do not require significant mechanical energy to be performed. They form spontaneously by simply contacting the constituents.
  • the major disadvantages of microemulsions are related to their high proportion of surfactants, leading to intolerances and resulting in a sticky feel when applied to the skin. Moreover, their range of formulation is generally very narrow and their temperature stability very limited.
  • amphiphilic lipid phase is composed of one or more (mixture) nonionic and / or ionic amphiphilic lipid.
  • Amphiphilic lipid means any molecule having a bipolar structure comprising at least one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic part having the property of reducing the surface tension of water ( ⁇ ⁇ 55mN / m) and reducing the interfacial tension between water and an oily phase.
  • the synonyms of amphiphilic lipid are, for example: surfactant, surfactant, emulsifier.
  • Nanoemulsions comprising an amphiphilic lipid phase consisting of phospholipids, a cationic lipid, water and a hydrophobic sunscreen are known in the state of the art. They are obtained by a high pressure homogenization process. These emulsions have the disadvantage of being unstable at storage at traditional storage temperatures, namely between 0 and 45 ° C. They lead to yellow compositions and produce rancid odors that develop after a few days of storage. In addition, these emulsions do not provide good cosmetic properties. They are described in the magazine "DCI" of April 1996, pages 46-48.
  • EP-A-728 460 and EP-A-780 114 describe nanoemulsions based on fluid non-ionic amphiphilic lipids or silicone surfactants.
  • nanoemulsions are fluid.
  • these products must have a certain consistency or viscosity. Indeed, a liquid product is much more difficult to dose and flows easily between the fingers.
  • aqueous media water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, and in particular optionally crosslinked polymers such as polycarboxyvinyl acids and especially carbopols, said polymers preferably having a long chain length and a high molecular weight.
  • a thickening system for thickening or even gelling suitably a composition in the form of oil-in-water nanoemulsion, without affecting the cosmetic properties of said compositions.
  • the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that it is possible to thicken the nanoemulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase whose oil globules have a mean size of less than 150 nm, with cationic polymers that are preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible. comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
  • the subject of the present invention is oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the oil globules of which have an average size in number of less than 150 nm, characterized in that they comprise at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic lipid, preferably nonionic or anionic and at least one cationic polymer, preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block and that the weight ratio of the quantity of oil the amount of amphiphilic lipid is between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1.2 and 6.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for thickening oil-in-water nanoemulsions having oil globules whose number average size is less than 150 nm, in which a cationic polymer is added to said composition, preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
  • the increase in the viscosity of the medium results from the formation of a network of oil particles, said network involving associations of the type hydrophobic between, on the one hand, the hydrophobic groups of the polymer and, on the other hand, the hydrophobic cores of the oil particles.
  • the existence of labile bonds between the particles causes an increase in the viscosity of the mixture.
  • the nanoemulsions according to the invention are prepared at temperatures between 4 and 45 ° C. and are compatible with heat-sensitive active agents. They may contain significant amounts of oil. They can in particular contain significant amounts of perfume and improve their persistence. They also promote the penetration of active ingredients into the superficial layers of the skin and the deposition of active ingredients on keratinous fibers such as the hair. The hair treated with these nanoemulsions is shiny without a touch or a greasy appearance, they disentangle easily, are softer and more nervous.
  • the cationic polymers preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, comprise at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
  • the cationic polymer comprises at least two hydrophobic sequences.
  • the hydrophobic block (s) are (are) mainly fatty chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular hydrocarbon-based compounds such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkenyl, divalent aliphatic groups such as C4-C30 alkylene, divalent cycloaliphatic groups such as in particular methylenedicyclohexyl, isophorone or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.
  • hydrocarbon-based compounds such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkenyl, divalent aliphatic groups such as C4-C30 alkylene, divalent cycloaliphatic groups such as in particular methylenedicyclohexyl, isophorone or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.
  • the hydrophilic block or sequences may be, inter alia, polyethylene oxide, polysaccharide, polyamide, especially polyacrylamide, polyester and mixtures thereof and preferably polyethylene oxide having from 15 to 500 ethylene oxides.
  • the cationic polymer comprises at least one tertiary or quaternary amine group.
  • the link (s) between the hydrophobic and hydrophilic sequence is most often, without being limiting, of the ester, ether, urea, amide or urethane type and mixtures thereof.
  • the ratio (by weight) of the hydrophilic sequence (s) on the hydrophobic sequence (s) of the polymer is preferably between 10/1 and 1000/1.
  • the cationic polymer or polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
  • the nanoemulsions according to the present invention preferably comprise at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid and / or at least one anionic amphiphilic lipid.
  • the silicone surfactants that can be used according to the invention are silicone compounds comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain -OCH 2 CH 2 - and / or oxypropylene -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -. Silicone surfactants that may be used according to the present invention include those described in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (1) of the compounds of formula (III): H - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) y - (CH 2 ) 3 - [(CH 3 ) 2 SiO] A ' - (CH 2 ) 3 - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) y - OH (III) wherein A 'and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
  • DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 may be used.
  • Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein A is respectively 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) where A is and y is 13.
  • the mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, usable as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention may be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol having an alkyl chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and alpha-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid, with glycerin.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl chain of fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters used in the nanoemulsion of the invention may be derived may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. It may include stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and mixtures thereof.
  • mixed esters which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerin and of the mixture of citric, lactic, linoleic and oleic acids (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoteate / oleate) marketed by Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerin (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) marketed by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerin (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by Danisco under the
  • the fatty acid and sugar esters that can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are preferably solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. and may be chosen especially from the group comprising esters or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C 14 -C 22 fatty acid esters and methylglucose.
  • the C 8 -C 22 or C 14 -C 22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty unit of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates and their mixtures. Stearates are preferably used.
  • monoesters of glucose or maltose such as o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside methyl and o-
  • the fatty alcohol and sugar ethers which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or ether mixtures.
  • the C 8 -C 22 or C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising respectively 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
  • alkylpolyglucosides such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside. optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic.
  • cetostearyl alcohol sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic
  • Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt
  • Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel
  • arachidyl glucoside for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic
  • Sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methyl glucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate and alkyl polyglucosides are more particularly used as surfactants.
  • the fatty esters of glycerol, usable as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. may be chosen especially from the group comprising esters formed of at least one acid containing an alkyl chain linear saturated, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units.
  • esters formed of at least one acid containing an alkyl chain linear saturated, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units One or more of these glycerol fatty esters may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention.
  • esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
  • CTFA names Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate
  • CTFA name Polyglyceryl-2 stearate
  • the fatty esters of sorbitan that can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. and are chosen from the group comprising the C 16 -C 22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan esters. and C 16 -C 22 fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan. They are formed of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol.
  • the oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 units of ethylene glycol and preferably from 2 to 40 units of ethylene oxide (EO).
  • esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
  • sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60
  • sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan). palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40
  • sorbitan tristearate 20 OE (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65) sold by ICI under the name Tween 65.
  • the ethoxylated fatty ethers which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are preferably ethers formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one chain. of fatty alcohol having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty chain of the ethers may in particular be chosen from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
  • ethoxylated fatty ethers By way of example of ethoxylated fatty ethers, mention may be made of behenic alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 units of ethylene oxide (CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20, BB30 by the company Nikko , and the stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: Steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI.
  • CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30 such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20, BB30 by the company Nikko
  • CTFA name: Steareth-2 the stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units
  • the solid ethoxylated fatty esters at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C. which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and at least one ethylene oxide chain. fatty acid having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty chain of the esters may especially be chosen from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.
  • ethoxylated fatty esters By way of example of ethoxylated fatty esters, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 units of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.
  • CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate the product sold under the name Myrj 52
  • behenic acid ester comprising 8 units of ethylene oxide CFA name: PEG-8 behenate
  • the block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B) that can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention may be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (I): HO (C 2 H 4 O) x (C 3 H 6 O) y (C 2 H 4 O) zH (I) in which x, y and z are integers such that x + z is from 2 to 100 and y is from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB ranging from 2 to 16.
  • the alkyl ether citrates which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention may be chosen in particular from the group comprising monoesters, diesters or triesters formed by citric acid and at least one oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, comprising a linear or branched alkyl chain. , saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and having from 3 to 9 ethoxylated groups, and mixtures thereof. It is indeed possible to use a mixture of one or more of these citrates in the nanoemulsion of the invention.
  • citrates can be chosen, for example, from mono-, di- and tri-esters of citric acid and ethoxylated lauric alcohol, comprising from 3 to 9 ethoxylated groups, sold by Witco under the name Witconol EC, in particular Witconol EC 2129 which is predominantly a dilaureth-9 citrate, and Witconol EC 3129 which is predominantly a trilaureth-9 citrate.
  • the alkyl ether citrates used as surfactants are preferably employed in neutralized form at a pH of about 7, the neutralizing agent being chosen from inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, and bases.
  • organic compounds such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol-1,3, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
  • n and n ' are mean values and therefore are not necessarily integers.
  • n it is advantageous to choose a value ranging from 5 to 60 and even more preferentially from 10 to 30.
  • the radical R and / or R ' is chosen from linear alkenyl radicals comprising from 8 to 22 and preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. It may be for example hexadecenyl radical having 16 carbon atoms or octadecenyl radical having 18 carbon atoms.
  • the acid -COOH function of the surfactants of formulas (I) and (II) is generally found in the nanoemulsion of the invention, in neutralized form with a neutralization agent, the neutralization agent being chosen for example from inorganic bases.
  • a neutralization agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, and organic bases such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol-1,3, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactant can be introduced into the aqueous phase or into the oily phase of the nanoemulsion.
  • the amount of amphiphilic lipid ranges from 0.2 to 15% by weight and preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
  • the ratio by weight of the amount of the oily phase to the amount of amphiphilic lipid ranges from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1.2 to 6.
  • the term “amount of oily phase” refers to the total amount of the constituents of the this phase without including the amount of amphiphilic lipid.
  • the nanoemulsion of the invention may further contain one or more additional ionic amphiphilic lipids different from those described above.
  • Their addition, as an additive, has the particular objective of further improving the stability of the dispersion.
  • the cationic amphiphilic lipids used in the nanoemulsions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts.
  • the alkyl radicals R 15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
  • R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 16 is a hydrocarbon radical R 20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22 , it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from C 11 -C 15 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. 21 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • x and z identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is 1.
  • the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate.
  • a halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate.
  • methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
  • the anion X - is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
  • the compounds of formula (VII) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and their mixtures.
  • the acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different.
  • These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of their esters methyl.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate,
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
  • composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono, di and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
  • a mixture of ammonium salts it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate and 15 to 30% of methyl sulphate.
  • triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium the acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred.
  • dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is the most preferred quaternary ammonium salt.
  • the nanoemulsion contains one or more additional cationic or anionic amphiphilic lipids, they are present in the nanoemulsions of the invention, preferably in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion and more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight.
  • Isobutylene oligomers with a molecular weight of less than 1000 and their mixtures with polyisobutylenes with a molecular weight greater than 1000 and preferably between 1000 and 15000 are preferably used.
  • the esters of liquid carboxylic acids can be mono, di, tri or tetracarboxylic.
  • the total carbon number of the esters is generally greater than or equal to 10 and preferably less than 100 and more particularly less than 80.
  • the monocarboxylic acid esters are in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic acid monoesters and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 , the total number of carbon of the esters being generally greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as myristate of isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as myristate of isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate,
  • the nanoemulsions according to the invention comprise an amount of oil preferably ranging from 2 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion and more particularly from 4 to 30% by weight and preferably from 8 to 20% by weight. in weight.
  • compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one aminosilicone.
  • hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C 1 -C 10 and in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl radicals; other types of radicals which may be bonded either directly or via a hydrocarbon radical to the siloxane chain include hydrogen, halogens and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene (or polyether) radicals and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene radicals, hydroxyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals, amide groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl radicals, amphoteric or betaine groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates , thioglycolates, sulfosuccinates, thiosulphates, phosphates and sulphates, this list being of course in no way limiting ("organomodified
  • Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272 and ABIL QUAT 3474.
  • the amino silicones can be in the form of an oil, aqueous solutions, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic, in the form of dispersion or emulsion.
  • a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of emulsions, in particular in the form of microemulsions or nanoemulsions.
  • Cationic Emulsion DC 929 can be used by the Dow Corning Company which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant derived from tallow fatty acid called Tallowtrimonium (CTFA), in association with a nonionic surfactant known as "Nonoxynol 10".
  • CFA cationic surfactant derived from tallow fatty acid
  • Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the Dow Company.
  • the aminosilicone is present at a concentration of between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.3 to 3% by weight. % in weight.
  • the emulsions according to the present invention may contain solvents, in particular to improve, if necessary, the transparency of the formulation.
  • Solvents such as those mentioned above are present in the emulsions of the invention in concentrations ranging, preferably, from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsions of the invention may contain water-soluble or fat-soluble active agents having a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical activity.
  • the liposoluble active agents are in the oily globules of the emulsion, while the water-soluble active agents are in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
  • active ingredients examples include vitamins and their derivatives such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, vitamin B, vitamin A alcohol or retinol, vitamin A acid or retinoic acid and its derivatives, provitamins such as panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, ergocalciferol, antioxidants, essential oils, humectants, silicone sunscreens or not preservatives, sequestering agents, softeners, colorants, viscosity modifying agents, foam modifiers, foam stabilizers, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizing agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, proteins, ceramides, pseudoceramides, C 16 -C 40 linear or branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, polymers, in particular cationic polymers and perfumes .
  • vitamins and their derivatives such as vitamin E, vitamin E a
  • the oil globules of the emulsions of the invention preferably have an average size ranging from 20 to 150 nm, more preferably from 30 to 100 nm and even more particularly from 40 to 80 nm.
  • the nanoemulsions according to the invention generally have a transparent to bluish appearance. Their transparency is measured by a transmittance coefficient at 600 nm ranging from 10 to 90% or by a turbidity ranging from 60 to 600 NTU and preferably from 70 to 400 NTU, turbidity measured with the portable turbidimeter HACH - Model 2100 P.
  • the nanoemulsions of the invention may be obtained by a process, characterized in that the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed, with vigorous stirring, at an ambient temperature of less than 45 ° C. and then a high homogenization is carried out. pressure at a pressure greater than 5.10 7 Pa and preferably ranging from 6.10 7 to 18.10 7 Pa.
  • Such a process makes it possible to carry out, at ambient temperature, nanoemulsions that are compatible with heat-sensitive active compounds, and that can contain significant amounts of oils. and especially perfumes that contain fat, without denaturing.
  • compositions for topical use such as a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition, characterized in that that it consists of a nanoemulsion as defined above or that it comprises such a nanoemulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention can be used for washing, cleaning and removing makeup keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes.
  • compositions of the invention may more particularly be in the form of shampoos, conditioners to be rinsed or not, compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or in the form of compositions to be applied before or after staining. , discoloration, permanent or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.
  • compositions may also be styling lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing (lacquer) and styling compositions such as, for example, gels or foams.
  • the lotions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair.
  • composition according to the invention when packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant which may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, propionic acid and propellant. isobutane, pentane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen or compressed air as propellant.
  • propellant may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, propionic acid and propellant. isobutane, pentane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen or compressed air as propellant.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for the care and / or the makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin of the body and / or the face, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails and the mucous membranes.
  • Another subject of the invention is the use of the emulsions as defined above as a base for care products and / or make-up and / or make-up removal for the skin of the body and / or of the face and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and / or the mucous membranes (for example the lips), such as lotions, serums, milks, creams, eaux de toilette .
  • the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp, characterized in that it is applied to the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, mucous membranes or scalp a nanoemulsion as defined above.
  • An emulsion is obtained in which the size of the oil globules is approximately 63 nm. This composition is stable storage for 2 months at room temperature and at 45 ° C.
  • the composition has a turbidity of 375 NTU and a viscosity of 650 mPa.s (cP).
  • the viscosity is measured with a Rheomat 108 rheometer with a velocity gradient of 200s -1 at 25 ° C. (mobile 3).
  • Hair treated with this composition is easy to disentangle, soft and shiny.

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EP00403527A 2000-01-21 2000-12-14 Nanoémulsion à base de lipides amphiphiles et de polymères cationiques et utilisation en cosmétologie Expired - Lifetime EP1129684B1 (fr)

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BR0100335A (pt) 2001-10-09
FR2804014B1 (fr) 2002-10-18
US20010028887A1 (en) 2001-10-11
DE60028921D1 (de) 2006-08-03
ES2265897T3 (es) 2007-03-01
EP1129684A2 (fr) 2001-09-05
EP1129684A3 (fr) 2001-11-14
DE60028921T2 (de) 2007-01-11
JP2001214081A (ja) 2001-08-07
CA2332466A1 (fr) 2001-07-21
ATE330579T1 (de) 2006-07-15

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