EP1112119A1 - Gellan und ein besonderes tensid enthaltende feste o/w emulsion und ihre verwendung - Google Patents

Gellan und ein besonderes tensid enthaltende feste o/w emulsion und ihre verwendung

Info

Publication number
EP1112119A1
EP1112119A1 EP00940490A EP00940490A EP1112119A1 EP 1112119 A1 EP1112119 A1 EP 1112119A1 EP 00940490 A EP00940490 A EP 00940490A EP 00940490 A EP00940490 A EP 00940490A EP 1112119 A1 EP1112119 A1 EP 1112119A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
emulsion
emulsion according
weight
stearate
magnesium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00940490A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Patricia Lemann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1112119A1 publication Critical patent/EP1112119A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/34—Higher-molecular-weight carboxylic acid esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid O / W emulsion, as well as its use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and or keratin fibers.
  • Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks”; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
  • makeup products are fairly generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color.
  • This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres.
  • the fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or pasty compounds which structure the sticks.
  • the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain drawbacks: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it. It is therefore increasingly sought to make makeup sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration.
  • sticks comprising a large aqueous phase are sometimes subject to problems of stability and lack of cohesion.
  • these gels which are produced from the combination of a hydrophilic gelling agent and water, have the drawback of being fragile and can break easily during use.
  • One way of improving the solidity of the gels is to increase the concentration of hydrophilic gelling agent, but the gels then become difficult to disintegrate, that is to say that the removal of material when taking the product is insufficient.
  • aqueous sticks free of fatty phase cause the application of the sensations of drying and tightness of the skin, effects considered undesirable by the users.
  • the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by associating with a particular hydrophilic gelling agent, namely gellan, an oil and a specific surfactant system, it was possible to produce solid emulsions which can disintegrate easily and provide freshness without tugging or drying effect.
  • a particular hydrophilic gelling agent namely gellan, an oil and a specific surfactant system
  • the present invention therefore relates to a solid oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising i) an aqueous phase gelled with gellan, ii) a fatty phase comprising at least one oil and iii) an HLB surfactant system greater than or equal to 7.
  • the emulsions according to the invention are particularly comfortable: they are easily applied, providing a feeling of freshness and softness. They do not cause a feeling of tightness or dryness of the skin after application. They have excellent cosmetic properties.
  • the emulsions of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities.
  • a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness. Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior.
  • the makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
  • emulsions also exhibit excellent cohesion. They are stable over time and at temperature. Thus, after having been stored for two months at room temperature or at 45 ° C, they do not exhibit any phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or even phase shift: their appearance and hardness have not varied.
  • the emulsions according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique.
  • the present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising an emulsion as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an emulsion and / or a solid make-up product as defined above.
  • the term “solid composition” means a composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 130 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a stainless steel mobile 2 mm in diameter in the matrix of the composition to a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
  • the emulsions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase gelled with gellan.
  • gellan mention may be made of gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by the company Nutrasweet-Kelco.
  • the gellan is preferably present in the emulsion according to the invention at a concentration ranging from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the aqueous phase of the emulsions of the invention may also comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent other than gellan, such as polysaccharides other than gellan or protein derivatives, synthetic or hemisynthesis gels of polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
  • a hydrophilic gelling agent other than gellan such as polysaccharides other than gellan or protein derivatives, synthetic or hemisynthesis gels of polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
  • the emulsions according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
  • a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
  • the emulsions according to the invention can also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.
  • the emulsions according to the invention comprise up to 99.95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, of water.
  • the emulsions according to the invention can also include solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene. glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-
  • solvents other than water for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene.
  • glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-
  • the emulsions according to the invention also comprise a fatty phase which comprises at least one oil.
  • oil is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
  • oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluor
  • the emulsions according to the invention are free from waxes.
  • wax is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a solid or pasty fatty substance with room temperature (25 ° C), that is to say a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 130 ° C.
  • the fatty phase may be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 70%, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention also comprise an O / W surfactant system of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 7, usually used in the cosmetic fields.
  • O / W surfactant system there may be mentioned in particular (CTFA): cetearyl glucoside, sucrose stearate, PEG-40 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan stearate, polysorbate 60, sorbitan stearate / coconut sucrose mixture, the mixture of glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate, PEG-400, glyceryl stearate, the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / giycol stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA cetearyl glucoside
  • sucrose stearate PEG-40 stearate
  • sorbitan tristearate sorbitan stearate
  • polysorbate 60 sorbitan stearate / coconut suc
  • the surfactant system is preferably present in the emulsions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 7%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the 'emulsion.
  • the emulsions according to the invention can also comprise a pulverulent phase which can comprise a pigment and / or a nacre and / or a filler.
  • a pulverulent phase which can comprise a pigment and / or a nacre and / or a filler.
  • pigment should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
  • the pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
  • inorganic pigments and nanopigments there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue.
  • organic pigments there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
  • the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethyienes or also with fluorinated compounds.
  • silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethyienes or also with fluorinated compounds.
  • SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi.
  • the nacres can be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0-40% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20% by weight.
  • the fillers which may be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20% , can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar.
  • carbon such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, compounds Si0 2 / Ti0 2 / Si0 2 , TiO 2 / CeO 2 / SiO 2 , or Ti0 2 / ZnO / Talc, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of flakes.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises sufficient pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers to ensure the desired makeup effect.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is not transparent, that is to say that the characters of a newspaper page cannot be seen through.
  • it is not translucent, that is to say that it does not allow the passage of light.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler chosen from optionally modified starch and its derivatives.
  • salts which will increase this rigidity.
  • These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts.
  • the ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the ⁇ -hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate).
  • the amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride.
  • the emulsions of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
  • the composition may also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are iipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids. , sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters.
  • emulsions according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing emulsions, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the emulsions according to the invention can constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or mucous membranes, especially the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
  • the Applicant has produced the solid O / W emulsion in the form of the following stick foundation:
  • phases A and B are homogenized separately. They are heated to 80 ° C. It is emulsified by pouring phase A into phase B with Moritz stirring (3000 rpm) at 80 ° C. The stirring is then reduced (500 rpm) and phase C is added. Homogenization is carried out for 15 min while maintaining the temperature at 80 ° C. It is poured into waterproof packaging articles. Allow to cool to room temperature.
  • a slightly creamy solid foundation is obtained, which spreads easily, is pleasant on the skin with a fresh effect.
  • the Applicant has produced the solid O / W emulsion in the form of the following stick foundation:
  • Phase A - Polyethylene glycol monostearate (8OE) sold under the trade name "Estol 3646" by UNIQEMA 1, 3%
  • Gellan gum Polysaccharides (D-glucose 1, 3 / D-glucuronic acid -1, 4 / D-glucose -1, 4 / L-Rhamnose 1, 4) sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by NUTRASWEET-KELCO 1,%
  • This emulsion was prepared according to the same procedure as Example 1 by adding (C + D) at the end.
  • a solid foundation is obtained which has the appearance of a fresh gel which is pleasant to apply without tightening effects.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP00940490A 1999-06-18 2000-06-09 Gellan und ein besonderes tensid enthaltende feste o/w emulsion und ihre verwendung Withdrawn EP1112119A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9907767 1999-06-18
FR9907767A FR2794997B1 (fr) 1999-06-18 1999-06-18 Emulsion h/e solide comprenant du gellane et un tensioactif particulier, utilisations
PCT/FR2000/001615 WO2000078442A1 (fr) 1999-06-18 2000-06-09 Emulsion h/e solide comprenant du gellane et un tensioactif particulier, utilisations

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1112119A1 true EP1112119A1 (de) 2001-07-04

Family

ID=9546994

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00940490A Withdrawn EP1112119A1 (de) 1999-06-18 2000-06-09 Gellan und ein besonderes tensid enthaltende feste o/w emulsion und ihre verwendung

Country Status (9)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1112119A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2003502394A (de)
KR (1) KR20010072739A (de)
AU (1) AU5541800A (de)
BR (1) BR0006827A (de)
CA (1) CA2340069A1 (de)
FR (1) FR2794997B1 (de)
MX (1) MXPA01001684A (de)
WO (1) WO2000078442A1 (de)

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JP5543161B2 (ja) * 2009-09-18 2014-07-09 株式会社コーセー 睫用化粧料
KR101831766B1 (ko) 2011-11-18 2018-02-27 (주)아모레퍼시픽 워터-스플래쉬 현상을 갖는 자외선 차단용 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조방법
JP6063561B2 (ja) 2012-05-18 2017-01-18 ロレアルＬ′Ｏｒｅａｌ 血色が良く見える化粧料組成物
KR101977209B1 (ko) 2012-09-12 2019-05-10 (주)아모레퍼시픽 반영구 염모제 조성물
CN102920621A (zh) * 2012-11-21 2013-02-13 安文娟 一种粉底液的组合物
FR3009956B1 (fr) * 2013-08-29 2018-05-11 L'oreal Composition hydratante sous forme d’emulsion huile-dans-eau ; procede de soin hydratant
JP5931832B2 (ja) * 2013-10-29 2016-06-08 信越化学工業株式会社 シリコーンゴム粒子の水分散液、シリコーンゴム粒子、及び化粧料
CN106074316B (zh) * 2016-08-26 2019-01-11 杭州耕香跨境电子商务有限公司 一种化妆品用精华乳液的制备方法
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EP3860557A4 (de) * 2018-10-03 2022-06-22 L'Oréal Zusammensetzung mit nichtflüchtigen/flüchtigen ölen und lipophilen farbstoffen, verfahren und verwendungen davon
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2340069A1 (fr) 2000-12-28
BR0006827A (pt) 2001-06-05
JP2003502394A (ja) 2003-01-21
KR20010072739A (ko) 2001-07-31
AU5541800A (en) 2001-01-09
FR2794997A1 (fr) 2000-12-22
WO2000078442A1 (fr) 2000-12-28
FR2794997B1 (fr) 2002-05-17
MXPA01001684A (es) 2002-04-08

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